Which dual purpose bike with sooo many choices?

[waynzz7]

Hay,
I am sick of watching adventure riders have a blast..so decided it is time to join them! :scooter: I have been doing some reading and have narrowed it down to a 400-600cc bike as I want to do some commuting to work, highway k's, possibly some supermotard open track days as well as trailriding :yes:..I have been riding road bikes for 14+ years, but first time on a dual purpose. I have been looking at the all popular DRZ400s and DRZ400sm..

Anyone have any other ideas?

Also those in the know is the DRZ400sm still as capable on the trail as it is on the road? and whats the performance of the DRZ400s like on the road??

Appreciate any suggestions....What a great site!
Cheers

[bart]

Problem with the DRZ is the close ratio gearbox. Gear it up for the road, and it's shit on the knarly stuff. Gear it down for offroad, and it'll buzz you to pieces at 100kmh.

Oh, and the plank of a seat.:angry:

But hey, if you're looking at 70% trails and offroad and 30% road work, you'd struggle to find better (for the money....just to keep the orange boys happy).

DR650 are betterer if you're looking at more 50% offroad, 50% road. KLR650 for 30% offroad, 70% road. KTM if you're a, ummm, how do I put this, poser. :shutup:

My 2c

[Taz]

KTM if you're a, ummm, how do I put this, poser. :shutup:

My 2c

Adv bikes - There's nothing poser about having great suspension and quality components which is the main difference between a 640 and a DR/KLR650. Many DR/KLR owners spend a small fortune modding their bikes to get near the KTM benchmark but in the end these bikes will do the same thing.

Of the road legal enduro bikes I truly believe the KTM525 is head and shoulders above the Jap offerings.

[bart]

Adv bikes - There's nothing poser about having great suspension and quality components which is the main difference between a 640 and a DR/KLR650. Many DR/KLR owners spend a small fortune modding their bikes to get near the KTM benchmark but in the end these bikes will do the same thing.

Of the road legal enduro bikes I truly believe the KTM525 is head and shoulders above the Jap offerings.

Hook line and sinker. 15 minutes, not bad. :laugh:

[bart]

Of the road legal enduro bikes I truly believe the KTM525 is head and shoulders above the Jap offerings.

The KTM525 is a great bike, but I'm not prepared to spend all that time on maintenance. Initial cost is about 1.5 times that of a jap bike, and the service intervals are way too short for my liking. 1500km?? that's crazy shit. :blink:

Now a 690, that could be tempting, but 17K new?????????

[oldrider]

"Duel purpose" can also cover "adventure touring" basically all road touring rather than sticking to sealed highway's!

That's where the bigger bikes come into their own, especially two up and loaded up for the long haul!

That's the stuff we have found the Triumph Tiger 955i to be the best bike we have ever owned and we are now in our late sixties and early seventies! :crybaby: Damn it! :facepalm:

[Woodman]

So many variables, so many opinions ,so many threads about this.

It all depends on what you call trail riding, and your ability off road. Personally I would go for a drz 400 (not motard) and gauge it from there. I think they are pretty crashable without inflicting too much damage.

Actually go and get one now before you read too much inernet.

[Baldyman]

DRZ400E/SM

I have a road legal "E" with an extra set of wheels. I can change from pure dirt to pure road or adventure set-up in under an hour. (With "refreshments" in between)

Great bike. Not the best at any one thing, but the best as an all-rounder

My 2c

[waynzz7]

But hey, if you're looking at 70% trails and offroad and 30% road work, you'd struggle to find better (for the money....just to keep the orange boys happy).

DR650 are betterer if you're looking at more 50% offroad, 50% road. KLR650 for 30% offroad, 70% road. KTM if you're a, ummm, how do I put this, poser. :shutup:



Cheers....One up for the DRZ400...KTM umm never ridden one so can't comment lol..

[waynzz7]

DRZ400E/SM

I have a road legal "E" with an extra set of wheels. I can change from pure dirt to pure road or adventure set-up in under an hour. (With "refreshments" in between)

Great bike. Not the best and any one thing, but the best as an all-rounder

My 2c

Sounds like what I am after :yes:..What rims do you have for the road? are they from an SM model or another bike?? Also how does it handle on the open road? is it comfy and fun or boring..

[waynzz7]

"Duel purpose" can also cover "adventure touring" basically all road touring rather than sticking to sealed highway's!

That's where the bigger bikes come into their own, especially two up and loaded up for the long haul!

That's the stuff we have found the Triumph Tiger 955i to be the best bike we have ever owned and we are now in our late sixties and early seventies! :crybaby: Damn it! :facepalm:


Cheers..Looking for something a bit smaller that I can throw around on a trail and the road..Have the vtr1000 for the longer distance stuff..Just looking for a smaller fun machine...Anyone have a 09-10 WR250r? looked at one of these but worried it won't have the grunt to keep me excited...nothing worse than a boring slow bike..

[Taz]

The KTM525 is a great bike, but I'm not prepared to spend all that time on maintenance. Initial cost is about 1.5 times that of a jap bike, and the service intervals are way too short for my liking. 1500km?? that's crazy shit. :blink:

Now a 690, that could be tempting, but 17K new?????????

Maintenance is just the same for any other road legal enduro bike such as the WR450 etc. I have 10,000kms on my 525 and have only changed the oil and filters every 2000kms and and checked the valves a couple of times. to do both of these tasks takes an hour tops.

The WR250R is a trail bike as opposed to a enduro bike. They are a great bike and have longer service intervals but are lacking a little in the grunt dept.

As the OP said 400-600 suitable for motard and trailrides I automatically thought of the KTM525EXC or the WR450 as the most likely steeds. The WR450F could use a 6th gear for better versatility. I didn't consider the DR/KLR and larger soft adventure trailies to be what he was after.

Not trolling just my honest interpretation of thre OP's question.

Taz

[waynzz7]

Maintenance is just the same for any other road legal enduro bike such as the WR450 etc. I have 10,000kms on my 525 and have only changed the oil and filters every 2000kms and and checked the valves a couple of times. to do both of these tasks takes an hour tops.

The WR250R is a trail bike as opposed to a enduro bike. They are a great bike and have longer service intervals but are lacking a little in the grunt dept.

As the OP said 400-600 suitable for motard and trailrides I automatically thought of the KTM525EXC or the WR450 as the most likely steeds. The WR450F could use a 6th gear for better versatility. I didn't consider the DR/KLR and larger soft adventure trailies to be what he was after.

Not trolling just my honest interpretation of thre OP's question.

Taz

Have seen a KTM 450 EXC-r and a 400exc on trade me also with low k's and within my (girlfriends budget restriction :facepalm: :bash:..) your thoughts???.....On the bikes..

[Taz]

Have seen a KTM 450 EXC-r and a 400exc on trade me also with low k's and within my (girlfriends budget restriction :facepalm: :bash:..) your thoughts???.....On the bikes..

Get a 525 over the 450/400. The longer stroke engine is much better on the road and less revvy. But if you intend to do big road miles then an enduro bike is not the answer. Factor in the price of a larger tank with an enduro bike too as most will only go 80-140 odd km on their standard tanks.

[bart]

As the OP said 400-600 suitable for motard and trailrides I automatically thought of the KTM525EXC or the WR450 as the most likely steeds.

Fair call. If looking at 90% trail and offroad and 10% road, KTM525 or WR450. :facepalm:

Don't write off the WR250 though. Good bike, and light if you're a little fella.

[thepom]

Bin the girlfriend and buy what you want....:shit:

[JATZ]

Is this what your after ?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-327019247.htm

[Baldyman]

Sounds like what I am after :yes:..What rims do you have for the road? are they from an SM model or another bike?? Also how does it handle on the open road? is it comfy and fun or boring..

I have some old Katana wheels that have been machined to fit with spacers and a larger front disc with a bracket to move the front brake. Smaller sprocket makes it a bit better for road use.

It is ok for rides around 200 to 300kms in a day. The seat gets a bit much and with only a 5 speed transmission.... it could use a sixth gear.

[waynzz7]

Bin the girlfriend and buy what you want....:shit:


Until the female version of a Ducati 1098s walks in the door..I think I will keep the g/f in my garage :yes:..She is far better than a scooter but not quite a Ducati yet...Anyway who's first bike was a Ducati 1098s..just working my way up :shit:

[oldrider]

Cheers..Looking for something a bit smaller that I can throw around on a trail and the road..Have the vtr1000 for the longer distance stuff..Just looking for a smaller fun machine...Anyone have a 09-10 WR250r? looked at one of these but worried it won't have the grunt to keep me excited...nothing worse than a boring slow bike..

Sorry, didn't notice vtr1000, wasn't being smart about that! :shutup:

[waynzz7]

Anyone have any thoughts about a 2002-04 yamaha TT6ooR??

[Oscar]

The KTM525 is a great bike, but I'm not prepared to spend all that time on maintenance. Initial cost is about 1.5 times that of a jap bike, and the service intervals are way too short for my liking. 1500km?? that's crazy shit. :blink:

Now a 690, that could be tempting, but 17K new?????????

Stick an oil cooler on it, and you increase the oil capacity by half again.
690 - too big, too complicated.

[XF650]

Waynzz7
This is in your home town - nothing to loose to take it for a ride.
I had a sit on it last week & it's well set up.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=313290703

[Willdat?]

Waynzz7
This is in your home town - nothing to loose to take it for a ride.
I had a sit on it last week & it's well set up.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=313290703

And just so he knows it's really a DRZ-400 dressed up green...

[Oscar]

Waynzz7
This is in your home town - nothing to loose to take it for a ride.
I had a sit on it last week & it's well set up.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=313290703

That is cool.

I used a DRZ400EK as an adventure bike for a while.
It was very good, and that screen would make it better.
http://oscar.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/FNAR/Ricky-Wheelie/1537752_R7riK-M.jpg

[Waihou Thumper]

Anyone have any thoughts about a 2002-04 yamaha TT6ooR??


OK but bigger tanks are rare! Acerbis did do them, but that was yonks ago. Safari - Nope, IMS - standard only, Just Gas Tanks - Nope.....

[Waihou Thumper]

Waynzz7
This is in your home town - nothing to loose to take it for a ride.
I had a sit on it last week & it's well set up.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=313290703

Nice bike....:) The front of it looks like a wizard....:yes:
Good set up and ready to go...

[Oscar]

Anyone have any thoughts about a 2002-04 yamaha TT6ooR??

Kick start.
I had to start one for an exhausted owner once - apparently can be difficult to start when: hot/wet/damp/cold/just been lying on side/wrong phase of the moon....

[CrazyFrog]

I think what bike you end up buying depends on your spending budget, after all, we all want the best bang for our hard earned bucks.
I've owned a 2002 Yamaha XT600, same motor as TTR600, bulletproof but slow on the highway. As heavy as a DR650 too.

Sold that and bought a KTM 640 Adventure, great bike with normal service intervals, fantastic suspension, motor is a little vibey, but most owners see past this, and enjoy the better aspects of the 640A.
I bought a road legal DRZ400E (trail version) while I had the 640A, as an extra play bike which was still capable of moderate road km's, yes the seat is a plank, but it is fixable if you wish. These bikes are bulletproof too, 4000km service intervals, and good fun, even tho they are heavier than most enduro bikes onthe dirt (130kgs). Bloody good all rounder.

Sold the DRZ to a mate, and bought a KTM 450EXC, fuck me, what a differnce, very light, tons of power, and gear it any way you please. Yes, service intervals are 1500-2000km for adventure riding styles, more if used as enduro or race bike, but once again, it's the old horses for courses debate. Plank of a seat too, but I mostly rode it for less than 2 hours, so not an issue. Fuel range is lowish with the standard tank, but I invested in a larger tank for better range.
Which brings me to my latest, the 525EXC, only bought it because it was a good deal and I wanted a bit more torque for any possible(probable) road miles. Essentially the same bike as the 450 with a bigger donk, light as, only 110kg, so good for trail work etc. Love it.:yes:

To sum it up, look at what territory you'll be most likely to ride, and make the call, buy the bike you are passionate about.
Weight it up.... bike ability vs comfort vs weight vs fuel range vs grin factor.
After all, you already have a good road bike, VTR's are sweet. Get a trailie and have the best of both worlds.
Get the KTM! In fact, buy mine! (It's the 450 EXC-R in Nelson on TM):innocent:

[Ocean1]

That is cool.

I used a DRZ400EK as an adventure bike for a while.
It was very good, and that screen would make it better.


I liked the KLX400R, same carb + comp as the DRZE but road legal, less weight than the trailie zook version. Better of both worlds for me.

[warewolf]

DR-Z400SM... has better suspension than the E, fully adjustable USD forks based on the RM, plus shorter travel hence lower seat height which is easier to manage - helpful for a dirt newbie. Find some 21/18" trail wheels for it.

And no, a WR250R is neither boring or slow. Maybe not quite as zippy as the F, but designed more for the long haul as befits a dual purpose bike rather than an enduro race weapon. The older less-potent 250 4T trailies, yeah maybe considered slower (only as boring as you are), but the WR-R is the new hotness.

KTM 4T EXCs within the same generation (RFS) are all pretty much the same reliability-, maintenance- and comfort-wise. The 250 has the bottom end from a bigger motor so is uber-reliable but due to the solidity doesn't quite have the performance of the Jap 250Fs. The 450 is a great well-liked all-rounder; the 400 is a revvier short-stroke 450 that turns better due to less engine inertia, some say it finds traction better too; the 525 is a bored 450 that rips your arms off. Peak power is about the same across all the big ones, but the torque curve changes. Weight is the nearly same but the differing rotational masses make them feel different to ride.

As a dirt novice you would be better off on a more modest easier to manage bike, at least initially. Yep, slower on the road but a heap better off it. Do your time, pick up some skills, then move up to a bigger bike. You'll also know whether you want to go more hardcore or more relaxed with the next bike. However that probably conflicts with your motard aspirations, where sheer hp is the winner, pretty much.

[NordieBoy]

690 - too big, too complicated.

But very nice to ride...

[cooneyr]

Get a 525 over the 450/400. The longer stroke engine is much better on the road and less revvy.....

... Off topic ...400 and 450 same piston but 400 shorter stroke. 450 and 525 same stroke but 525 bigger piston. 525 piston/barrel on 400 crank = 453cc. Rumoured to be the best RFS motor KTM never made.

[waynzz7]

Big thanks to all those who have offered some great advice..:clap:

Currently my thinking is that I will start off on a 400..use will be about 40% road and 60% trails/dirt/mud/snow/gravel/water/mountains...:yeah::2thumbsup:....and what ever else I can find to go up down or sideways on...

I am expecting to do quite a few k's so want something relatively robust...I liked the sound of the KTM's, high power low weight, ..but the service intervals would be annoying...

So a 400 thats grunty-ish, easyish for a trail newbie, not too heavy, has reasonable performance on and off road, is reasonably priced for a later model one, electric start, robust and reliable, long service intervals, able to be rego'd and wof'd, can cook and clean and....oops getting a bit carried away here...

So it keeps coming back to a DRZ400s ...or maybe the SM...I am checking out the only green one in timaru tomorrow, thanks to those who pointed it out...

I am just worring about my short arse legs not being able to reach the ground..as I hear they are tall...Is it important to be able to put both feet on ground trail riding?? I am 5'8 so hopefully it will be fine...Just one is fine for the firestorm...
Anyone else have a good drz400s for sale?

[Willdat?]

So it keeps coming back to a DRZ400s ...or maybe the SM...I am checking out the only green one in timaru tomorrow, thanks to those who pointed it out...

I am just worring about my short arse legs not being able to reach the ground..as I hear they are tall...Is it important to be able to put both feet on ground trail riding?? I am 5'8 so hopefully it will be fine...Just one is fine for the firestorm...
Anyone else have a good drz400s for sale?

You want a DR-Z400E and not an S as second hand they will be much the same money.

The SMs are phenomenally good value as they seem to go on special each summer for 8k new including on road costs. One of these plus 21/18" wheels would be great for a 5ft 8er.

One foot down is fine IMO, but i'm 6ft 2 with two little bikes... i'm sure Zerax is that height or shorter and he's a legend!

[twisty]

I own a DR400sm and I use it for adventure riding. I have Dunlope D606's (17" back tyres) front and rear and it works very will. I have no desire to have a 21 on the front.

The biggest annoyance with these bikes is the silly close ratio gearbox. This is ok for me cuz I have larger bikes as well. If this was my do everything bike I would want a larger tank, an extra front sprocket or 2 and maybe a screen.

I have 1 tooth down from standard on the front sprocket and I get about 130k max.

I can only imagine the "E" carb would make this go a bit better?

The SM's don't have rim locks so if you need very low tyre pressures this may be a problem (maybe get a proper dirt bike?)

[Willdat?]

I can only imagine the "E" carb would make this go a bit better?



E model carb and header pipe are upgrades for the SM...

[Ocean1]

So it keeps coming back to a DRZ400s ...or maybe the SM...I am checking out the only green one in timaru tomorrow, thanks to those who pointed it out...

I am just worring about my short arse legs not being able to reach the ground..as I hear they are tall...Is it important to be able to put both feet on ground trail riding?? I am 5'8 so hopefully it will be fine...Just one is fine for the firestorm...
Anyone else have a good drz400s for sale?

The green one isn’t equivalent to a DRZ400S, it’s effectively a registerable E. An S is heavier but an SM would be well worth a test ride if the KLX feels a bit tall but one does tend to get used to it. If you need to get a foot down on the down side in a hurry it’s ‘cause you’ve already fucked up. Chances are a dab wouldn’t save you anyway.


I have 1 tooth down from standard on the front sprocket and I get about 130k max.

I can only imagine the "E" carb would make this go a bit better?

The SM's don't have rim locks so if you need very low tyre pressures this may be a problem (maybe get a proper dirt bike?)

18” / 21” wheels make it a perfectly acceptable dirt bike. The pumper carb won’t give you any more revs, just quicker response, and while that’s good on a track it’s less good in the bush, unless your throttle control is very good.

[Oscar]

The green one isn’t equivalent to a DRZ400S, it’s effectively a registerable E. An S is heavier but an SM would be well worth a test ride if the KLX feels a bit tall but one does tend to get used to it. If you need to get a foot down on the down side in a hurry it’s ‘cause you’ve already fucked up. Chances are a dab wouldn’t save you anyway.



18” / 21” wheels make it a perfectly acceptable dirt bike. The pumper carb won’t give you any more revs, just quicker response, and while that’s good on a track it’s less good in the bush, unless your throttle control is very good.

I had a registrable E model - I think they're called an "EK".
The same engine as the off road model - mine ended up with a KLX400 muffler on it and geared down slightly. Much better than an "S".

http://oscar.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/FNAR/44169_AFUHr#1537746_umr8j-A-LB

[Ocean1]

much better than an "S".

Think the only difference in the donks is the carb and the base gasket, (compression). Having said that I've drag raced the KLX against a many a DRZ400S and if the gearing's the same there's absolutely nothing in it.

Genuinely bulletproof engine that too, pity it didn't turn up in other incarnations. A version scaled up to 500 with much wider gears would have been a damn good machine.

[NordieBoy]

A version scaled up to 500 with much wider gears would have been a damn good machine.

A version left at 400 with wider gears would go down well too.

[Ocean1]

A version left at 400 with wider gears would go down well too.

There ain't no substitute for cubic inches.

[Oscar]

Think the only difference in the donks is the carb and the base gasket, (compression). Having said that I've drag raced the KLX against a many a DRZ400S and if the gearing's the same there's absolutely nothing in it.

Genuinely bulletproof engine that too, pity it didn't turn up in other incarnations. A version scaled up to 500 with much wider gears would have been a damn good machine.

Three words:
Metal petrol tank.


Edit: and about 5hp

[warewolf]

I had a registrable E model - I think they're called an "EK".The K bit is part of the year designation. K1 = 2001, K2 = 2002 etc.

[bart]

Most road legal versions I've seen are 'E' models (or SM). Don't think I've even seen an 'S' with the steel tank.

I had an EK6 (2006). Great bike. I'd still have it if I was doing more 'real' offroad. Only let down is the close gearbox.

Oh, and I'm only 5 foot 6, and had mine at full height (well, wound the spring off a wee bit). Easy to lower with the dogbone suspension linkage thing, but you only need one foot on the ground at a time. :yes::blink:

[Oscar]

Most road legal versions I've seen are 'E' models (or SM). Don't think I've even seen an 'S' with the steel tank.

I had an EK6 (2006). Great bike. I'd still have it if I was doing more 'real' offroad. Only let down is the close gearbox.

Oh, and I'm only 5 foot 6, and had mine at full height (well, wound the spring off a wee bit). Easy to lower with the dogbone suspension linkage thing, but you only need one foot on the ground at a time. :yes::blink:

Yeah, I haven't seen an "S" since about 02, but I see on Tardme that Holeshot are selling 'em new from $8,400. The latest price on the "E" is $10,100.

[Ocean1]

Three words:
Metal petrol tank.


Edit: and about 5hp

Yeah, a dozen widgets and bracketry too.

But in spite of the supposed HP difference, (34 vs 37?) the two are invariably a lot closer in real life. Surprising, 'cause they feel quite different, but there y'go.

[waynzz7]

:woohoo: Just purchased a 05 DRZ400e :scooter::yes:

Can touch the ground ok on it...and chose the E over the S model...It felt a bit taller but I can live with that...Am stoked and picking it up on Saturday...will post a few picks when I get it...Bring on the weekend and some good weather!!

The reg is on hold from previous owner and it hasn't been wof'd for a few years...Anyone know of any problems with getting a new wof when it hasn't been done for a few years???

[CrazyFrog]

Good on ya, you'll be happy with the DRZ, suit suit you needs well. Sort the seat out with some better foam, and enjoy.
You should have no problem getting a WOF after a couple of years, just make sure the bike has working indicators, headlight, horn and DOT approved tyres. Y'know the usual WOF regulations.

On the tyres, you'll find a stamp with DOT on it if they are road legal, if they dirt use only, they'll usually have NHS or Off Road use only marked.

[waynzz7]

Well I have had the DRZ a while now and clocked up a few thou K's mainly on the road, one trail ride (another this weekend :yes:) and plenty of time exploring river tracks...My verdict..a little disappointed really :shit:

It goes well on the dirt and is fun around town..but the open road it is a shaking vibrating loose goose..Ok I realise there is no perfect road/trail/adventure bike (unless you can convince me otherwise) but I thought it would stack up better than it has...I am however not going to throw all my toys out of my bath tub just yet...So perhaps you can help..

So far I have tightened the steering, replaced rear sprocket with a 41T (now 14/41)removed 2 chain links to fit, adjusted suspension to factory settings, inflated tyres to 28-28psi, replaced front tyre (Dot legal trail type), filter and oil and attached aftermarket exhaust..Now on the open road starting at about 85k's amd going up to 105k's it gets quite a shimmy on..in that it seems to start in the front forks (slight up and down movement) and just seems to vibrate through the bike till it is smooth again for 5 secs and then starts the shimmy again up front,and on it goes again.. it just keeps doing this????

Now I am not an A B or even C grade mechanic..but I do know my rough way round the bike..So if anyone has any thoughts or insights into the matter, please share them and restore my faith in the mighty DRZ?

[Night Falcon]

I am however not going to throw all my toys out of my bath tub just yet...So perhaps you can help..

DRZ is a good trail bike. that said your vibrations could be any number of things (and probably are). Easy fix would be wheel balancing, unequal fork pressures to more expensive fixes like bearing issues or yikes....a twisted frame:facepalm:.

If the bike has been sitting for a while you might like to get your forks dialed in/tuned by a good mechanic and have your front end bearings checked out.

hope this gives you some ideas at least.

[NordieBoy]

Wheels balanced?
Out of round?


Rimlock + no lead?

CrazyFrog's DRZ would bounce the back wheel at 100kph. It felt like it was the front end causing the problems.

I pulled the rimlock off and it was sweet for the Dusty Butt.

[Oscar]

Well I have had the DRZ a while now and clocked up a few thou K's mainly on the road, one trail ride (another this weekend :yes:) and plenty of time exploring river tracks...My verdict..a little disappointed really :shit:

It goes well on the dirt and is fun around town..but the open road it is a shaking vibrating loose goose..Ok I realise there is no perfect road/trail/adventure bike (unless you can convince me otherwise) but I thought it would stack up better than it has...I am however not going to throw all my toys out of my bath tub just yet...So perhaps you can help..

So far I have tightened the steering, replaced rear sprocket with a 41T (now 14/41)removed 2 chain links to fit, adjusted suspension to factory settings, inflated tyres to 28-28psi, replaced front tyre (Dot legal trail type), filter and oil and attached aftermarket exhaust..Now on the open road starting at about 85k's amd going up to 105k's it gets quite a shimmy on..in that it seems to start in the front forks (slight up and down movement) and just seems to vibrate through the bike till it is smooth again for 5 secs and then starts the shimmy again up front,and on it goes again.. it just keeps doing this????

Now I am not an A B or even C grade mechanic..but I do know my rough way round the bike..So if anyone has any thoughts or insights into the matter, please share them and restore my faith in the mighty DRZ?

In respect of the shimmy:
Did you slide the forks up/down at all?
Have you bled the air out of the forks?
Has the front wheel got a rim lock?
And this may sound basic, but is the rear wheel in straight?

For the engine vibration - check the engine mounts.

I've got a Haynes manual for a DRZ somewhere, so I'll dig it out and get the forks settings and torque values for the engine mounts.

[bart]

Sounds strange. Mine was stable at 100km, even with the rimlocks in, just engine vibe started driving me crazy over long distance. As said, check out the suspension settings.

[waynzz7]

DRZ is a good trail bike. that said your vibrations could be any number of things (and probably are). Easy fix would be wheel balancing, unequal fork pressures to more expensive fixes like bearing issues or yikes....a twisted frame:facepalm:.

If the bike has been sitting for a while you might like to get your forks dialed in/tuned by a good mechanic and have your front end bearings checked out.

hope this gives you some ideas at least.

Cheers Falcon, I am whippin in to the bike shop tomorrow for a balance check on the rims..I have noticed a slight ding on one side of the front wheel rim...Thanks u just reminded me I did need to equal the air pressure in the forks..fingers crossed it's nothing worse..

[waynzz7]

Wheels balanced?
Out of round?


Rimlock + no lead?

CrazyFrog's DRZ would bounce the back wheel at 100kph. It felt like it was the front end causing the problems.

I pulled the rimlock off and it was sweet for the Dusty Butt.


Rimlock with no lead?..Sorry Nordie Boy I am a nubbie newbie to offroad bikes..Pretty sure my bike has rim locks (extra bolt sticking out of rim?) maybe I need to get my shiney new tools out of the packet, to make it at least look like I know what I am doing, and pull the tyre off to see what you mean..

[waynzz7]

In respect of the shimmy:
Did you slide the forks up/down at all?
Have you bled the air out of the forks?
Has the front wheel got a rim lock?
And this may sound basic, but is the rear wheel in straight?

For the engine vibration - check the engine mounts.

I've got a Haynes manual for a DRZ somewhere, so I'll dig it out and get the forks settings and torque values for the engine mounts.

Hi OScar, forks are slid pretty much right out..bleeding the air from front forks is my job before work tomorrow and I have double and triple checked the back wheel alignment..The engine mount torque settings n fork setting you have would be much appreciated, Cheers..


Sounds strange. Mine was stable at 100km, even with the rimlocks in, just engine vibe started driving me crazy over long distance. As said, check out the suspension settings.

I have heard they can sit on 100k shimmy-less a few ttimes from a few different people I have spoken to about it so am holding out hope I will get to the bottom of it soon..Cheers Bart

[waynzz7]

I was just checking the chain and it has 3 linking bits in it..Would this be a problem??

[NordieBoy]

Rimlock with no lead?..Sorry Nordie Boy I am a nubbie newbie to offroad bikes..Pretty sure my bike has rim locks (extra bolt sticking out of rim?) maybe I need to get my shiney new tools out of the packet, to make it at least look like I know what I am doing, and pull the tyre off to see what you mean..

I mean a rimlock with no balancing lead on 'tother side of the wheel.

[waynzz7]

Well I think I have sussed the problem with the DRZ 'shimmy' , Not sure which one worked but from the great advice offered (cheers) I rechecked suspension settings and adjusted, tightened most bolts I could find, checked all bearings for movement (seemed to be none) moved the rim lock opposite the valve (were right next to each other) replaced the electrical tape with rim tape, had the front wheel balanced and banged out a ding in the front rim and tightened steering head....

Now it rides alot smoother at 60k...@ 100k it still has some vibes but no where near as bad..Next year I will replace the knobblie tyres for some less agressive dual sport tyres and get the rear wheel balanced, which will hopefully eliminate the dreaded shimmy completely...or just get a 650 instead haha..it never ends

Thanks for your help..

[bart]

The rimlock beside the valve seems strange. This may have contributed to the issue. All bikes I've had have them opposite, or without rimlock, are heavily weighted opposite the valve.

Glad to see you're getting it sorted. DRZ's are great bikes. :yes:

[NordieBoy]

The rimlock beside the valve seems strange. This may have contributed to the issue. All bikes I've had have them opposite, or without rimlock, are heavily weighted opposite the valve.

Glad to see you're getting it sorted. DRZ's are great bikes. :yes:

The rim lock next to the valve stem makes tyre changes much easier.
Makes balancing harder but not a biggie.

[warewolf]

The rimlock beside the valve seems strange. On every bike I've checked (not heaps, but includes lots of KTMs in showrooms), the front one is opposite the valve, the rear next to it.

Spot-checking the Suzuki NZ web site, all the ones I looked at are that way, including the DR-Z400.

Balance at the front is probably more critical, and at the rear unsymmetrical rubber loss off the chunky tread would soon upset any fine balance anyway.

[dino3310]

on the XR there both opposites, i have noticed that the rear tyre wears more on the opposite side to the rimlock is this normal

[cynna]

on my dr350 the rimlock is close to the valve

[hemiben04]

Gday thought I might put my 2 cents worth in, Get on the phone and organise some test rides. I was using a lc4 enduro for all my riding, awesome on gravel roads but felt like I had been restling a monster after doing trail type rides so I deciced it was time for a change. I test rode heaps and heaps of bikes and settled for a road legal EXC400, With a little work it is becoming a great all round bike, Yes the maintance intervials are a pain in the arss but if you are handy with a spanner its makes for good times mucking about with ya bike in the shed.
Try a few bikes you will know when it feels right:scooter:

[_Shrek_]

Well I have had the DRZ a while now and clocked up a few thou K's mainly on the road, one trail ride (another this weekend :yes:) and plenty of time exploring river tracks...My verdict..a little disappointed really :shit:

It goes well on the dirt and is fun around town..but the open road it is a shaking vibrating loose goose..Ok I realise there is no perfect road/trail/adventure bike (unless you can convince me otherwise) but I thought it would stack up better than it has...I am however not going to throw all my toys out of my bath tub just yet...So perhaps you can help..

make sure you don't have a small twist in the rear sprocket as well


Now it rides alot smoother at 60k...@ 100k it still has some vibes but no where near as bad..Next year I will replace the knobblie tyres for some less agressive dual sport tyres and get the rear wheel balanced, which will hopefully eliminate the dreaded shimmy completely...or just get a 650 instead haha..it never ends

for comfort & commuting & playing up in the hills the 650Gs BMW will keep up with most off or on road handles well easy to service etc & lots of fun & you get the best of both worlds