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Grasshopperus
10th November 2010, 22:40
Hi guys,

So I'm keen to get along to drag-wars at Meremere. What's the deal with launching and drag-racing a bike?

I'm not interesting in modifying or 'strapping' (whatever that is), I'd just like to know how fast I can ride my daily commute down the quarter-mile.

I assume that wheelies are bad and that I should just twist the wrist as much as I can while keeping the front-wheel on the ground.... and that's it?

Can someone give me a really basic run-down of the stance or method for doing an optimal run? ie.
* Do you launch with both feet on the ground?
* Take each gear to redline or do you change at the point where the bike is producing optimal HP?
* If you reduce the tyre pressure is there facility at Meremere to pump them up again when you head home?
* How much gas in the tank should you arrive with?

You know, the basics :)

Gremlin
10th November 2010, 23:57
Well, I haven't done it, but having clocked up a few km on a hornet, yes, wheelies are bad, and it will wheelie. The first couple of gears minimum you will want your arse back to give traction to the rear, and chest and head forward as much as possible to put weight over the front end.

More gas in the tank will increase weight on the front end, but increase weight overall. Also, running the bike out to redline won't help, as there isn't a lump of HP up there. The red line is also a soft limit, so be careful you don't over-rev.

tigertim20
11th November 2010, 01:57
Hi guys,

So I'm keen to get along to drag-wars at Meremere. What's the deal with launching and drag-racing a bike?

I'm not interesting in modifying or 'strapping' (whatever that is), I'd just like to know how fast I can ride my daily commute down the quarter-mile.

I assume that wheelies are bad and that I should just twist the wrist as much as I can while keeping the front-wheel on the ground.... and that's it?

Can someone give me a really basic run-down of the stance or method for doing an optimal run? ie.
* Do you launch with both feet on the ground?
* Take each gear to redline or do you change at the point where the bike is producing optimal HP?
* If you reduce the tyre pressure is there facility at Meremere to pump them up again when you head home?
* How much gas in the tank should you arrive with?

You know, the basics :)

hornets are fucking wheelie machines, and that WILL hold you back a bit compared to other bikes of the same capacity for that reason.
so not the best choice for drags, however..

ride the clutch to get it off the line, hold the revs at somewhere around half, maybe a little higher, and ride the clutch out as you give it the beans. start leaned forwards a little bit, weight on the bars, feet out behind you a bit, this will help throw your weight forwards and keep the front down a bit, especially as you take off, as you will throw your body forward 'pushing' the front down, so you can get on the gas faster.

By the time you hit second you should just about be able to crank it wide open without too much risk of the powerstand happening, get forward, get low, and open the bitch up.

should be all over in 12 seconds or less on that thing without a problem.

as for changes, bike dependant. see if you can get a dyno sheet from a bike the same as yours, and look at the horsepower and tourque curves, figure out at what point on the tach you want to be changing up, so as to be changing up with maximum horsepower available.

each bike differs.

speedpro
11th November 2010, 17:46
I'm not familiar with the bikes, but . . .
Don't assume you have to use 1st to launch, it depends how high second is and how much you are willing to hammer the clutch. Try 2nd at some time before you turn up.
I liked to stage as shallow as possible. Creep the bike forward into the beams until the stage light "just" comes on. paddle it forward with your feet and rock it back and forth to be absolutely sure you are staged just enough.
If you stage shallow you will need to put your foot on the brake to make sure you don't accidentally roll back and red light.
With a shallow stage you can be rolling a split second before the green without red lighting. It takes practice to get it just right and a few red lights are the penalty for learning the limits.
Hold the throttle steady at whatever revs you're comfy with and whatever works. Which gear you use to launch will be a factor plus track conditions.
Meremere used to be a bitch, real slippery, compared to Thunderpark. Depending on traction you will need to be forward to keep the front down or back a bit to get traction.
If you are running DYO don't be afraid to change your factor every run to suit conditions, it's amazing that not everybody does this.
Don't use the clutch when changing gear, it's worth measurable time.
An ideal launch will have the front "just" off the ground in as many gears as you have the power to do it. Sometimes it is worth slipping the clutch on the first shift to control wheelies or just to get more out of it.

Did I mention that the clutch gets hell if you are serious?

I could get 11.3@120 from an old Z1 so the Hornet should be good for at least that.

Gremlin
11th November 2010, 18:24
For drags, the hornet would be suited to starting in first. Fastest way to get away is first. It will pull in second, but if you try too much too soon, it will just bog and stall.