No speedo revs or km working, GSXR 750

[firefighter]

I've recently woken up my bike when we moved house (2000 GSX-R 750 Y).

The dash was working fine before the move. In fact the first I knew of the dash not working was when I rode it to the new place.

What is'nt working; everything but the indicator lights and neutral light. So that's the fuel light, Fi light, Rev counter, Speedo, Odometer etc.

I've checked every fuse I can find.

I've checked it's plugged in properly.

I've tried taking out the GiPro/Atre and the speedohealer.

I've tried swapping out the Relay.

I have put in a brand new battery (the old one was fucked anyway).

Any ideas other than pouring petrol all over it down Muriwai beach and putting in an insurance claim? I'm thinking the whole speedo is fucked but people i've spoken to (mechanics) think that's highly un-likely......

Before I invest in professional help, if there are any knowledgeable people on this then let me know. I've already found a replacement which I can have the right kms put onto, however if this is'nt the problem that's wasted money.

Also, the company i'm using to adjust the kms for me is overseas, does anyone know if anyone can do this (properly) in N.Z?

[Scuba_Steve]

Sorry not familiar with the bike, electric speedo/dash???. If so I had a similar problem with one of my bikes ended up being a broken wire in the cable running from the dash down the front fork to the hub
diagnosed it with a multimeter then felt for any "differences" in the cable (& hoped we got the right point really (which we did)) cut in, soldered cable back together, re-sealed cover & works perfectly now.

[firefighter]

Sorry not familiar with the bike, electric speedo/dash???. If so I had a similar problem with one of my bikes ended up being a broken wire in the cable running from the dash down the front fork to the hub
diagnosed it with a multimeter then felt for any "differences" in the cable (& hoped we got the right point really (which we did)) cut in, soldered cable back together, re-sealed cover & works perfectly now.

Haha, yeah bro it's electronic.....

Going off what you're saying though, would'nt several cables need to be broken? The fuel light is'nt coming on either.....nor the rev counter as well as the F.I light and the actual speed and odo. I would'nt think they all share a single wire and i'd think it highly unlikely that there would be several broken wires.

Personally I think that the mechanics are wrong, they said that it's highly unlikely that the speedo shat itself, but looking at other forums and reading what's there, it's not impossible......besides the mechanics also said the whole situation is weird, because nothing is working other than the indicator, neutral and highbeam (I think)...

[Scuba_Steve]

Haha, yeah bro it's electronic.....

Going off what you're saying though, would'nt several cables need to be broken? The fuel light is'nt coming on either.....nor the rev counter as well as the F.I light and the actual speed and odo. I would'nt think they all share a single wire and i'd think it highly unlikely that there would be several broken wires.

Personally I think that the mechanics are wrong, they said that it's highly unlikely that the speedo shat itself, but looking at other forums and reading what's there, it's not impossible......besides the mechanics also said the whole situation is weird, because nothing is working other than the indicator, neutral and highbeam (I think)...

Yea actually could be right there remembering back think it was only speedo & odo gone still had my fuel & revs. in that case ignore my last comment I'm as stumped as you.

[Drew]

Get a multi meter, test for power at the plug for the dash. If some of them are getting power then you know it's the dash.

If none of them are...Start hunting.

[firefighter]

Get a multi meter, test for power at the plug for the dash. If some of them are getting power then you know it's the dash.

If none of them are...Start hunting.

Yep, it's the dash.....awesome.

[notme]

Electronics repair is like solving a murder mystery, you follow the clues and hope you get the right culprit in the end. Sometimes you get the wrong guy and have to start all over ......

The clues and my observations here are:


I've recently woken up my bike when we moved house (2000 GSX-R 750 Y).

The dash was working fine before the move. In fact the first I knew of the dash not working was when I rode it to the new place.



The bike has been sitting for a while. How long, indoors or out, under a bike cover?
Sitting for a while makes me think of corrosion and the battery going flat.



What is'nt working; everything but the indicator lights and neutral light. So that's the fuel light, Fi light, Rev counter, Speedo, Odometer etc.


This means the electronic dash unit is not lighting up. The indicator lights and neutral light are part of the indicator and neutral circuits, i.e. they don't share wiring with the dash unit they just happen to be mounted in the dash.



I've checked every fuse I can find.

I've checked it's plugged in properly.

I've tried taking out the GiPro/Atre and the speedohealer.

I've tried swapping out the Relay.

I have put in a brand new battery (the old one was fucked anyway).

Any ideas other than pouring petrol all over it down Muriwai beach and putting in an insurance claim? I'm thinking the whole speedo is fucked but people i've spoken to (mechanics) think that's highly un-likely......

I agree, it's very very unlikely. Still possible, but I'd be surprised. If you had said that the dash doesn't light up after trying to jump start the bike from an extension cord that you cut the end off or similar, I would believe that the dash unit would be dead. But not just from sitting for a while. That does bring one thing to mind though - how DID you start the bike after it had been stored? Did it need a jump? Crash start?




Before I invest in professional help, if there are any knowledgeable people on this then let me know. I've already found a replacement which I can have the right kms put onto, however if this is'nt the problem that's wasted money.

There are several wires which are common to the whole dash unit, power and ground are among them. Without a wiring diagram showing what should be where on the dash connector it will be pretty hard to troubleshoot - one thing you could try is unplugging the dash connector and looking for +12V on one of the connector pins with the negative lead of the multimeter on the frame of the bike. Visually, you could look around the frame for earth wire connection points to see if any are corroded and needing a clean up. I suspect corrosion the most, given that the bike has been sitting. If it was in a nice warm dry garage then that becomes quite unlikely though. Still worth a look.

Also, is there any chance, maybe by paying a bond or something, that you can get the replacement unit for a quick test? All you have to do is plug it in and you will know if it is the dash unit or the bike wiring.

Good luck :-)

[slofox]

Firefighter, when you DO solve this, I'd love to know just what was wrong if you wouldn't mind posting it up...

[cs363]

Dunno about the source of the problem, but I would tend to agree with allun that corrosion would be the most likely culprit.

But...if you do end up with a new dash, see these guys for getting the Km's adjusted: http://www.aucklandspeedoservices.co.nz/

[firefighter]

The bike has been sitting for a while. How long, indoors or out, under a bike cover?
Sitting for a while makes me think of corrosion and the battery going flat.

Cheers for the comprehensive response!

I have replaced the battery so that is non-issue, and it was under a bike cover (a good one) and in a carport, and was only sitting for about two months (which is'nt all that long/I look after the bike pretty well).

It was started by over-charging the old battery so it would crank it and keep it running until I got it to the new place, I knew it was flat/fucked so just charged it for a couple of hours beforehand.....it was on this trip that I first noticed it the problem. It definitely was'nt there when I last rode it (It was regularly commuted on and ridden/worked on, cleaned etc so I know the bike well enough).

After pulling apart the dash and removing the circuit board, I have however found two big grey spots on the circuit board itself, to me that's the culprit!

There's definitely power at the plug, I tested it last night (dunno why I did'nt before I just did'nt think about it until Drew mentioned it).

My money is on replacing the dash. Hopefully it works! If not I'll just save and finally turn it into a trackbike.......(which is the plan when I can afford to buy a new one).

[notme]

Bike cover in a carport - without knowing the specifics, I'll just say that this is a perfect corrosion scenario in a lot of cases - damp (being outside) and the moisture can't escape from under the cover. It's actually better to leave it uncovered in this situation because the moisture can then excape. However as I said, I don't know the specifics and it might be all good in your case :-)

Grey spots on the dash - can you put up a pic? Grey spots of mould? Grey burn marks from an electrical whoopsie? Primer?

I still say if someone will lend you a dash, that will give you an absolute answer as to the problem being bike or dash....

[firefighter]

Bike cover in a carport - without knowing the specifics, I'll just say that this is a perfect corrosion scenario in a lot of cases - damp (being outside) and the moisture can't escape from under the cover. It's actually better to leave it uncovered in this situation because the moisture can then excape. However as I said, I don't know the specifics and it might be all good in your case :-)

Grey spots on the dash - can you put up a pic? Grey spots of mould? Grey burn marks from an electrical whoopsie? Primer?

I still say if someone will lend you a dash, that will give you an absolute answer as to the problem being bike or dash....

I appreciate the thoughts of corrosion, but the bikes dry as and clean as. It did'nt just sit in a mangrove neglected, it was cleaned and polished, and work done on it/mods etc so it's not like it's just been left. I also took it up the motorway to have new tyres put on at Colemans from out west.....

No not mould, that would be impressive to have mould on the circuit board of the dash.......I would have thought anyway.

Grey spots as in something fried, in two places on the same circuit board.....I know what that looks like.
I'm confident enough to have already bought a new one, and the fried one has been sent away to meet the new one at a store to have the kms matched to the original dash.

Obviously it'll probably turn out to be anything but the dash, but I got a good deal and had been sussing out the dash right from the start.......so at least not too much spent if it's not the dash, plus whilst it's being sorted i'm having different coloured LEDs installed to make it prettier too......what can I say I like modding bikes.

Now the long wait for the new one to arrive.......i'll be happy if it's the end of the month!

[notme]

Well, grey spots that look like smoked electronics does not sound good!

The only remaining thing I would check is that the charging system is OK, so that you don't kill the new dash :-)

I've attached the ubiquitous troubleshooting chart ..... well worth a run through IMHO.

[firefighter]

Well, grey spots that look like smoked electronics does not sound good!

The only remaining thing I would check is that the charging system is OK, so that you don't kill the new dash :-)

I've attached the ubiquitous troubleshooting chart ..... well worth a run through IMHO.

Cheers mate that was exactly my next concern.......blowing the new dash would be more than frustrating (and friggin expensive!).

[Phreak]

Use a multi-meter to check for a corroded earthing point behind your dash (excessively high resistances)... Flashers and neutral light would probably have their own earth, I imagine. A bad earth can cause failure on your dash's circuit board, causing things to pop...

My two cents worth.

[imdying]

What Phreak said.

[aff-man]

Hahaha I had the same problem with my 2000 750Y but I found out the loom running through the triple clamps rubs on the lower bolt and rubbed through one of the power wires shorting out the dash and luckily for me blowing a fuse before any permanent damage could be done. (went through 3 fuses as the only blew when turning left and rub through was only pinhole size but slight black mark on fork gave it away)

So check your loom as you may have a short somewhere pulling a ridiculous amount of amps through the instruments and frying them..

[White trash]

Hahaha I had the same problem with my 2000 750Y but I found out the loom running through the triple clamps rubs on the lower bolt and rubbed through one of the power wires shorting out the dash and luckily for me blowing a fuse before any permanent damage could be done. (went through 3 fuses as the only blew when turning left and rub through was only pinhole size but slight black mark on fork gave it away)

So check your loom as you may have a short somewhere pulling a ridiculous amount of amps through the instruments and frying them..

Yeah but you also suggested the the oil light "must be broken" on your bike when heading out onto the track and someone pointed out it was on......

[aff-man]

Yeah but you also suggested the the oil light "must be broken" on your bike when heading out onto the track and someone pointed out it was on......

Meh I was young and stupid.... sheesh...
Come a long way from then sunshine... you should see current project moohahaha

[Drew]

Meh I was young and stupid.... sheesh...
Come a long way from then sunshine... you should see current project moohahahaDoes it not need oil?

Any stock you had went west when you bought an RSV anyway, no one wants to see your shitters.

[aff-man]

Does it not need oil?

Any stock you had went west when you bought an RSV anyway, no one wants to see your shitters.

Yeh I know I'm actually in the process of trying to sell the rsvr and go back the the nice cushy reliableish gixxers or perhaps an R1...

the current project is a kwaka.... Andy knows about it hahaha

[FROSTY]

I'm kinda wondering --perhaps way off base but- Battery knackered. Jump start -nothing to slow the alternator charge rate- I wonder if the reg rec is fried and the next component in line is the dash.

[firefighter]

I'm kinda wondering --perhaps way off base but- Battery knackered. Jump start -nothing to slow the alternator charge rate- I wonder if the reg rec is fried and the next component in line is the dash.

Will be worth investigating before the new gauge arrives....the last thing I need is for it to blow right away, especially since I spent an extra couple $$ on getting the LED's colour changed etc, will be an expensive fix if I have to replace it again. :facepalm:

Cheers

[notme]

Will be worth investigating before the new gauge arrives....the last thing I need is for it to blow right away, especially since I spent an extra couple $$ on getting the LED's colour changed etc, will be an expensive fix if I have to replace it again. :facepalm:

Cheers

Expensive and a right royal pissoff......"use the chart, Luke": http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/130875-No-speedo-revs-or-km-working-GSXR-750?p=1129907972#post1129907972

[firefighter]

Ok this is where I show my awesome expertise with using a multimeter.....:blink:

I set it up fine, is all very step by step and simple, I just need to know whether the reading should go down when opening the throttle.


I tested it, at idle it reads around 13.5+ 'ish', then revved to 2500RPMs (thereabouts-remember no gauges on the bike) reading went down to 12.8'ish' until I dropped the throttle, then pinged back up over 13.5, then the same with 5000RPMs it dropped to around the same, and was reasonably steady then it pinged back up to over 13.5 but under the 14.8 stated on the chart.

If that is what it's supposed to do, according to the chart it's all fine, if not then I guess there's an issue (hopefully that's all normal).

Anyone?

[notme]

Voltage dropping with revs is definitely not right mate - could be either Reg/Rect or battery. Unlikely to be the alternator, so don't bother with the stator testing part of the chart just yet.

A quick and easy way to test for bung battery or alternator is to swap the battery for a known good one - maybe from a mate's bike, maybe a friendly shop will let you buy one and return it if it's not needed, maybe you have one around. A lot of home alarms, jetskis, quad bikes etc have similar batteries to your bike, as long as it's a 12V battery and close to the same AHr rating as yours (printed on the side, probably 7 or 12) you can use it for a series of tests.

So get a good battery and put it in, repeat the testing - the battery volts should go UP with revs, but no higher than the max of 14.8V.

If the good battery gives you the same readings, it's the reg/rect, so you would have to repeat the swapsies with a know good one of them or get into testing the RR itself.

I always recommend the battery swapsie first since it is usually the quickest and easiest way to check things, and it's also the most likely piece of the puzzle to fail.

Good luck :-)

EDIT: BTW, the pinging back up in volts when you drop the throttle could be the key to the original problem - you may be getting big spikes (20, 30, 40V+) when the revs drop, and that could easily kill a dash when repeated over a period of time..... You won't see those spikes with a multimeter either unfortunately. Just a theory, so don't get too worried just yet :-)

[garyninow]

Hi Firefighter

I had a similar problem.

Found that when switching on, no speedo etc, nothing when pressing starter button.

Problem was that the electrical system was not connected to the negative battery terminal because there was a corroded plug.

Follow the negative wire from the battery terminal to where it earths on the crankcase. This is below the back of the fuel tank.

There is a black/white wire that leads from there to a plug which plugs it into the wiring harness. This is the plug that was corroded on my bike. Fix and make a good connection and it may fix your problem.