Honda CBRR 250 MC22 - advice

[overworkedmonkey]

Guys,

What are your thoughts on the Honda CBR 250 MC22?

[Damantis]

Loved it. Kept up with alot of the bigger bikes and sounded great at 14000rpm! Service it well and it should be pretty bulletproof.

[overworkedmonkey]

Cool. Any issues I should look out for? What are the most common problems if any? How do I actually check if it is the MC 22 and not MC 19?

[Gibbo89]

Cool. Any issues I should look out for? What are the most common problems if any? How do I actually check if it is the MC 22 and not MC 19?

How many disc brakes it has on the front. 1 for the mc19, 2 for the mc22. mc22 was like 1990+. mc19 was 1988, 1989... maybe a few in 1990? can't recall seeing many 1990 mc19's though

[SMOKEU]

Cool. Any issues I should look out for? What are the most common problems if any? How do I actually check if it is the MC 22 and not MC 19?

MC22 has 2 brake discs on the front wheel. MC19 has one disc. MC22 has a 19,000RPM redline. MC19 has a 18,000RPM redline. These are the most obvious ways to tell the difference, although there are many other more subtle differences.

They tend to be very reliable and are known to do over 100,000km without needing any major work done to them. Most of these bikes have been binned at some stage, so pay careful attention to the frame and forks to see if they have been damaged in any way. Nothing really seems to go wrong with these bikes, even when thrashed. Maintenance on these bikes can be tricky, just ask anyone who has replaced the spark plugs on one of these.

I would definitely recommend one of these bikes to anyone looking for a 250cc road bike, but they do put out enough power to get you into serious trouble if you're a noob.

[SMOKEU]

How many disc brakes it has on the front. 1 for the mc19, 2 for the mc22. mc22 was like 1990+. mc19 was 1988, 1989... maybe a few in 1990? can't recall seeing many 1990 mc19's though

I would take the year on the rego with a grain of salt - mine is registered as a 1989 model, but it's actually a 1988 model according to the frame number. No speed cut on the 1988 models!

[Vinz0r]

Also, the 19 has a different seat to the 22. It is puffier while the 22 is flatter.

[overworkedmonkey]

MC22 has 2 brake discs on the front wheel. MC19 has one disc. MC22 has a 19,000RPM redline. MC19 has a 18,000RPM redline. These are the most obvious ways to tell the difference, although there are many other more subtle differences.

They tend to be very reliable and are known to do over 100,000km without needing any major work done to them. Most of these bikes have been binned at some stage, so pay careful attention to the frame and forks to see if they have been damaged in any way. Nothing really seems to go wrong with these bikes, even when thrashed. Maintenance on these bikes can be tricky, just ask anyone who has replaced the spark plugs on one of these.

I would definitely recommend one of these bikes to anyone looking for a 250cc road bike, but they do put out enough power to get you into serious trouble if you're a noob.

Thanks mate. That's a good start for me. What would I be looking out for when paying attention to the frame and forks apart from a steering lock stops? Also how do you tell if the carburetors and valves are fine?

When you say tricky, what does that mean exactly?

[onearmedbandit]

Check how it starts when it's both cold and hot, does it fire up immediately (it'll probably need the choke on when it's cold) or does it seem to struggle. Try to rev the bike through to it's redline when it's warm and hot through the gears, is it smooth and eager, or does it seem to fluctuate or hesitate, or just not seem that keen.

Check for disc brake warpage by feeling if there is any pulsating at the lever. Does the throttle snap shut when let go, or does it seem slow to return? Now try that again with the bars turned left then right. Is there any signs of seepage around the fork seals? Work the forks up and down a few times and recheck.

Check the pads in the front brakes (look up inside the calipers, you should see how much 'meat' is left on the pads. Check the front discs for excessive wear. Run your thumb and fingers over the face of the disc to the edge (obviously not straight after riding!), is there a noticeable 'ledge' on the disc? If so, try to measure them and compare to factory tolerances otherwise you might be up for new discs come next WOF.

Look for scrape marks on the foot controls or bent levers, this could of course be the sign of a keen rider, but combined with other factors could be an indication it's been dropped. Check the swingarm for scrape marks. Are there any stickers or carbon add ons that could be hiding damage.

You can visually check the forks for damage, side on and from the front, but this will not show the full extent of any possible damage. Is the action on the forks smooth? Or does it seem 'jerky'?

Lots more to check but I've got to go out now. Good luck.

[SMOKEU]

When you say tricky, what does that mean exactly?

The spark plugs are a fucking cunt of a job to replace. The number 3 plug will have you swearing and throwing your tools across the workshop, but since you only have to do it every 15,000km it's not something you really have to worry about too much.

Other than that, listen to what onearmedbandit has said because he knows what he's talking about.

[hayd3n]

The spark plugs are a fucking cunt of a job to replace. The number 3 plug will have you swearing and throwing your tools across the workshop, but since you only have to do it every 15,000km it's not something you really have to worry about too much.

Other than that, listen to what onearmedbandit has said because he knows what he's talking about.
lol that was 2x last year for me

[MSTRS]

How do I actually check if it is the MC 22 and not MC 19?

Twin discs are right, but some clever person may have upgraded the front end etc. Have a look on the right side of the headstock. Stamped into it should be an MC** and a frame number.

[p.dath]

Guys,

What are your thoughts on the Honda CBR 250 MC22?

I had one. They are a great fun bike.

[overworkedmonkey]

Check how it starts when it's both cold and hot, does it fire up immediately (it'll probably need the choke on when it's cold) or does it seem to struggle. Try to rev the bike through to it's redline when it's warm and hot through the gears, is it smooth and eager, or does it seem to fluctuate or hesitate, or just not seem that keen.

Check for disc brake warpage by feeling if there is any pulsating at the lever. Does the throttle snap shut when let go, or does it seem slow to return? Now try that again with the bars turned left then right. Is there any signs of seepage around the fork seals? Work the forks up and down a few times and recheck.

Check the pads in the front brakes (look up inside the calipers, you should see how much 'meat' is left on the pads. Check the front discs for excessive wear. Run your thumb and fingers over the face of the disc to the edge (obviously not straight after riding!), is there a noticeable 'ledge' on the disc? If so, try to measure them and compare to factory tolerances otherwise you might be up for new discs come next WOF.

Look for scrape marks on the foot controls or bent levers, this could of course be the sign of a keen rider, but combined with other factors could be an indication it's been dropped. Check the swingarm for scrape marks. Are there any stickers or carbon add ons that could be hiding damage.

You can visually check the forks for damage, side on and from the front, but this will not show the full extent of any possible damage. Is the action on the forks smooth? Or does it seem 'jerky'?

Lots more to check but I've got to go out now. Good luck.

Really appreciate the advise. A few questions.

#1 If it doesn't start immediately, what does this mean? What if I am testing it while it has been warmed up?

#2 If the gears do not change smoothly, fluctuates, hesitates or is not keen, what does that mean?

#3 What if the throttle snaps back or is slow to return? What does that mean?


The spark plugs are a fucking cunt of a job to replace. The number 3 plug will have you swearing and throwing your tools across the workshop, but since you only have to do it every 15,000km it's not something you really have to worry about too much.

So does that mean I either have the patience to do them myself or I need to get a mechanic to do them? Are they under the tank? What type of engine does the CBR have e.g. v twin?


Twin discs are right, but some clever person may have upgraded the front end etc. Have a look on the right side of the headstock. Stamped into it should be an MC** and a frame number.

Dumb question. Where is the headstock?

[p.dath]

Note that is normal for the change from 1st to 2nd to be a bit "clunky" as well. Sometimes it feels a bit like a thud.

[MSTRS]

Dumb question. Where is the headstock?

:facepalm:
AKA the steering head. The part of the frame directly in front of the petrol tank. The part that the holds the forks etc to the frame and allow them to turn.
This bit, with the writing on. Honda stamp the model and frame number into the tube, generally on the right side. Sometimes, the VIN plate is affixed here too.
http://www.flathead-bobbers.com/flathead_frames/images-hd0276/1935_Harley_VL_Frame_468x384.jpg

[SMOKEU]

Really appreciate the advise. A few questions.

#1 If it doesn't start immediately, what does this mean? What if I am testing it while it has been warmed up?

#2 If the gears do not change smoothly, fluctuates, hesitates or is not keen, what does that mean?

#3 What if the throttle snaps back or is slow to return? What does that mean?



So does that mean I either have the patience to do them myself or I need to get a mechanic to do them? Are they under the tank? What type of engine does the CBR have e.g. v twin?

Dumb question. Where is the headstock?

1. If it doesn't start easily it could mean many things. Low compression, worn spark plugs, bad ignition system, timing is out, maybe valve clearances, blocked fuel filter, blocked fuel tap, bad fuel pump, carby problem etc.

2. If the gears don't change smoothly then it could mean that the engine oil is old or of the wrong grade, or at a low level. It could also mean gearbox problems (very expensive to fix). The clutch could also be worn.

3. The throttle should always be very quick to return back to a neutral position, regardless of the throttle position. If it is slow to return or hesitates, then it could mean that it needs a good lube up. It could also mean a problem with the throttle body.

IT IS A STRAIGHT 4 ENGINE!!! Even a very amateur backyard mechanic can change the plugs on these, it's just tricky as there is very little room to put your hands in. Do it yourself, there is very little technical skill involved in it. We're not rebuilding an engine here.

No offence, but the OP seems like a complete noob. We all had to start somewhere, and I too remember the time when I would stall a bike almost every time I would try and take off. A CBR250 is not the bike to buy unless you are reasonably confident on a bike. This bike will pull hard all the way up to 160kmh before it starts to die down a bit, and you will find yourself in serious trouble on one of these. Buy a GN250 and ride that till you get your 6R.

[overworkedmonkey]

1. If it doesn't start easily it could mean many things. Low compression, worn spark plugs, bad ignition system, timing is out, maybe valve clearances, blocked fuel filter, blocked fuel tap, bad fuel pump, carby problem etc.

2. If the gears don't change smoothly then it could mean that the engine oil is old or of the wrong grade, or at a low level. It could also mean gearbox problems (very expensive to fix). The clutch could also be worn.

3. The throttle should always be very quick to return back to a neutral position, regardless of the throttle position. If it is slow to return or hesitates, then it could mean that it needs a good lube up. It could also mean a problem with the throttle body.

IT IS A STRAIGHT 4 ENGINE!!! Even a very amateur backyard mechanic can change the plugs on these, it's just tricky as there is very little room to put your hands in. Do it yourself, there is very little technical skill involved in it. We're not rebuilding an engine here.

No offence, but the OP seems like a complete noob. We all had to start somewhere, and I too remember the time when I would stall a bike almost every time I would try and take off. A CBR250 is not the bike to buy unless you are reasonably confident on a bike. This bike will pull hard all the way up to 160kmh before it starts to die down a bit, and you will find yourself in serious trouble on one of these. Buy a GN250 and ride that till you get your 6R.

Thanks SMOKEU. Don't consider myself a noob to riding however admit being a complete newbie to mechanics. Have tried looking the right person or maven to teach me or to impart their skills however very few are keen hence my complete noob questions. Appreciate the help. Gets me headed in the right direction.