Overheating and oil questions

[all4A50s]

What solutions have you all come up with to deal with over heating issues?

What coolant have you all found to be the best in buckets?

What oil viscosity has been found the best in buckets?

The reason I am asking as I am running into a few issues with my bucket over heating and before I start changing things I wanted to get some input from gurus such as yourselves.

[Pumba]

What engine are you running?

[all4A50s]

What engine are you running?

I am running a CBR125 bottom end with a CBR150 top end and a motogp racing exhaust.

[LBD]

I beleive an oil cooler may be the trick...and although I searched CBR125 and Oil Cooler and found a lot of hits....I found nothing bolt on..If you can find a place to plumb it it, it would be the way to go.

Use a synthetic oil...beter high temp stability and a gnats dick less friction....a lower internal traction than mineral oils

[all4A50s]

I beleive an oil cooler may be the trick...and although I searched CBR125 and Oil Cooler and found a lot of hits....I found nothing bolt on..If you can find a place to plumb it it, it would be the way to go.

Use a synthetic oil...beter high temp stability and a gnats dick less friction....a lower internal traction than mineral oils

What do you think of running 20w50 synthetic oil and 30% distilled water to 70% water wetter?

The last time I looked at the running temp of the bike problems started developing when the bottom end reached 104 deg C.

[Moooools]

Cooking oils should do the trick. I've put that in the pan a few times and it survives pretty well. Engine shouldn't be as hot as the pan.

Get rid of the coolant and weld some cooling fins on. The water cooling craze is a bit retro now.

If that fails you could just drop down to B Grade. :innocent:

[LBD]

What do you think of running 20w50 synthetic oil and 30% distilled water to 70% water wetter?

The last time I looked at the running temp of the bike problems started developing when the bottom end reached 104 deg C.

Possibly stick with the OEM10W40...At leat I beleive that is the recomendation....But because you do do not race in very cold weather....if you have 20W50 ot should be fine...it will contribute slightly to higher temp because of the higher viscosity (More friction)

Re coolant I am not familiar with water wetter....50%water and 50% organic glycol mix should lift the boil point sufficiently.

[jasonu]

Get rid of the coolant and weld some cooling fins on. The water cooling craze is a bit retro now.

. :innocent:

You're havin' a laugh, right???

[all4A50s]

Possibly stick with the OEM10W40...At leat I beleive that is the recomendation....But because you do do not race in very cold weather....if you have 20W50 ot should be fine...it will contribute slightly to higher temp because of the higher viscosity (More friction)

Re coolant I am not familiar with water wetter....50%water and 50% organic glycol mix should lift the boil point sufficiently.

I'm running 10W40 at the moment. Hence wanting to try a different oil. Water wetter is the non-slippery coolant that is allowed to be used on race tracks.

[speedpro]

It's blardy hard to believe that a watercooled 4-stroke is overheating. Last I checked water wetter actually conducted less heat than plain old water. A good synthetic oil will handle all sorts of heat for a time. I always ran Mobil1 in my turbo McIntosh though there "should" be something better out there now but how you'd tell I don't know. It was a Castrol engineer who actually said I should use the Mobil1.

Is there some problem with the cooling system like partially blocked radiator core?

[Brian d marge]

I am running a CBR125 bottom end with a CBR150 top end and a motogp racing exhaust.
you're not running it to lean by any chance?

Stephen

[F5 Dave]

CBR 125 with 150 top end.

hope you've changed the jetting & timing to cope with those changes.:innocent:

time to dig out a carby,:facepalm:

[aprilia_RS250]

What solutions have you all come up with to deal with over heating issues?

What coolant have you all found to be the best in buckets?

What oil viscosity has been found the best in buckets?

The reason I am asking as I am running into a few issues with my bucket over heating and before I start changing things I wanted to get some input from gurus such as yourselves.

I find in excess of 200km/h is the best way to control temperature.
.

[Buckets4Me]

I find in excess of 200km/h is the best way to control temperature.
.

thats had with so many corner in the way
bet your aprilla coundn't do half that sort of speed at Mt Welly:facepalm:

[speedpro]

we could sell tickets to watch him try . . . :yes:

[Henk]

CBR 125 with 150 top end.

hope you've changed the jetting & timing to cope with those changes.:innocent:

time to dig out a carby,:facepalm:

Good point. Remapping the stock fool injection might be a bit tricky. Time for a power commander and some time on a dyno I suspect.

[Moooools]

Good point. Remapping the stock fool injection might be a bit tricky. Time for a power commander and some time on a dyno I suspect.

He has done the power commander and dyno. Don't really know how long he spent on the dyno though.

[koba]

CBR 125 with 150 top end.

hope you've changed the jetting & timing to cope with those changes.:innocent:

time to dig out a carby,:facepalm:

Compressionage too. And cam timing.

[all4A50s]

He has done the power commander and dyno. Don't really know how long he spent on the dyno though.

Unfortunately only got an hour on a Dyno, which was enough to see what the power curve and AFR were doing. I'm trying out two directions with the mapping one based around a CBR125 map and one based around the Dyno readings.

[LBD]

A lower viscosity oil (5 or 10W40)will generate less heat than a higher Viscosity 20W40)....

Any Synthetic will be better than any Mineral at coping with heat.

If you are producing much more power than std you will be producing more heat. If an oil cooler is to difficult how about a bigger radiator ?

I need to read up on race track rules on coolant me thinks....

A higher pressure cap will maintain a higher pressure in the cooling system and lift the boil point a little

[richban]

Unfortunately only got an hour on a Dyno, which was enough to see what the power curve and AFR were doing. I'm trying out two directions with the mapping one based around a CBR125 map and one based around the Dyno readings.

Looks a touch to lean at the top and to rich in the middle. Looks like more power to be had quite easily with some fueling. AFR to be in the safe zone at full throttle should be closer to 12.9. If the bike lives on full like most buckets then that could be your extra heat. And you say it all goes wrong the hotter it gets. Lean maybe. Double Ester Motul has served me well.

[Bert]

thermostat; broken pump blades, lean.

Id also check that the 150 barrel actually lines up with the bottom end; i.e that the ports for the water jacket aren't blocked (half blocked) etc or full of silicon :facepalm:

Oil: AMPS (ducks nuts mate).

You wouldn't have this problem with a two stroke....:yes:

[F5 Dave]

He's (Rich) quite right, it doesn't look like a 4 stroke curve. Wonder what the safe rev limit is? Not revving very high is it?

[richban]

Has it got a hi compression piston fitted? Do you know the compression ratio?