K7 GSXR750 engine temp in Celsius?

[specter]

is it possible to switch the engine temp readings from Fahrenheit to Celsius?

[imdying]

Yeah, look in your manual. You'll need to hold one (or both, I can't remember) of the buttons in for about 5 seconds or something like that (been a while).

[specter]

Yeah, look in your manual. You'll need to hold one (or both, I can't remember) of the buttons in for about 5 seconds or something like that (been a while).

manual says that its displayed in both f and c but doesnt say how to change it?

[Latte]

Googled 2007 gsxr temp change......

"According to the user's manual, press SELECT until you see the odometer screen then hold down both SELECT and ADJUST for at least 3 seconds or more. That should change it. Now, their is another problem that you may not be aware of, and that is if that bike is a Canadian one, it may not change. it is my understanding that the US models and EUROPEAN ones are the only ones that can change. Try this, and if it does not change, you are out of luck."

[specter]

Googled 2007 gsxr temp change......

"According to the user's manual, press SELECT until you see the odometer screen then hold down both SELECT and ADJUST for at least 3 seconds or more. That should change it. Now, their is another problem that you may not be aware of, and that is if that bike is a Canadian one, it may not change. it is my understanding that the US models and EUROPEAN ones are the only ones that can change. Try this, and if it does not change, you are out of luck."

select + adjust only changes mph/kph, might just be shit out of luck then.. pretty gay it shows temp in Fahrenheit even though its a nz new model

[neels]

Have you called your friendly local Suzuki dealer?

They may know about such things....

[imdying]

select + adjust only changes mph/kph, might just be shit out of luck then.. pretty gay it shows temp in Fahrenheit even though its a nz new modelTake it back to the shop and make them change it. It is not unreasonable for a consumer in NZ to expect their bike to report the temperature in degrees celcius.

Or just ignore it, it's no biggy.

[onearmedbandit]

select + adjust only changes mph/kph, might just be shit out of luck then.. pretty gay it shows temp in Fahrenheit even though its a nz new model

Does it have a 'castle' nut with cotter pin on the rear axle? If so, it's more than likely excess stock from Canada that was sold here as NZ New. Totally legal by the way, and they would not have to rectify it to suit the NZ market.

[specter]

Does it have a 'castle' nut with cotter pin on the rear axle? If so, it's more than likely excess stock from Canada that was sold here as NZ New. Totally legal by the way, and they would not have to rectify it to suit the NZ market.

ummm, nut with pin in it, yes... ahwell doesn't bother me too much but would be ice to have it in Celsius,but i shall somehow manage

[Pussy]

Does it have a 'castle' nut with cotter pin on the rear axle? If so, it's more than likely excess stock from Canada that was sold here as NZ New. Totally legal by the way, and they would not have to rectify it to suit the NZ market.


ummm, nut with pin in it, yes... ahwell doesn't bother me too much but would be ice to have it in Celsius,but i shall somehow manage

It will be E 03 spec (US).
If it was E28 spec (Canadian) the temp guage will be in degrees C, and the speedo in km only. E 28 do have the castellated axle nut, too.
As far as I am aware, there is no way of changing the temp red-out short of replacing the instrument cluster

[orangeback]

you might be luck and have one of the 13 press realise bikes , that where balanced, that where sold here

[Pussy]

you might be luck and have one of the 13 press realise bikes , that where balanced, that where sold here

They were E19 (European) spec bikes

[NZsarge]

select + adjust only changes mph/kph, might just be shit out of luck then.. pretty gay it shows temp in Fahrenheit even though its a nz new model

Just because it's a NZ new bike doesn't mean it a NZ model, NZ is a bit of a Suzuki dumping ground i'm told, could be a model that was originally meant one of quite a few different markets.

[specter]

Just because it's a NZ new bike doesn't mean it a NZ model, NZ is a bit of a Suzuki dumping ground i'm told, could be a model that was originally meant one of quite a few different markets.

as posted earlier so far the bike has zero problems bar the temp readings (and as cowboys would say - soft front hard rear) im quite happy with it, was just wondering if there was a quick fix but im not gonna bitch and moan about it. thanks for the info guys!

[Shaun]

as posted earlier so far the bike has zero problems bar the temp readings (and as cowboys would say - soft front hard rear) im quite happy with it, was just wondering if there was a quick fix but im not gonna bitch and moan about it. thanks for the info guys!



The rear is not hard mate, it has no where near enough spring pre load on it from standard, making it compress to easily, leading you to believe it is to hard

[NZsarge]

as posted earlier so far the bike has zero problems bar the temp readings (and as cowboys would say - soft front hard rear) im quite happy with it, was just wondering if there was a quick fix but im not gonna bitch and moan about it. thanks for the info guys!

True enough mate, nothing to bitch about either, nice low km bike in top condition. You'll get used to reading the temp in what ever it's reading in, not a big thing at the end of the day.

[Pussy]

The rear is not hard mate, it has no where near enough spring pre load on it from standard, making it compress to easily, leading you to believe it is to hard

The K6-K7 GSX-R750 is way OVER sprung for your average punter.
9.5n spring on the back, and 1.00kg/mm fork springs. Fine if you weigh more than 95kg.

Specter.... your bike won't have the built in imobiliser either.

[specter]

The rear is not hard mate, it has no where near enough spring pre load on it from standard, making it compress to easily, leading you to believe it is to hard

i seriously know fuck all about suspension, just what cowboyz told me, i honestly wouldn't know or don't think its annoying


The K6-K7 GSX-R750 is way OVER sprung for your average punter.
9.5n spring on the back, and 1.00kg/mm fork springs. Fine if you weigh more than 95kg.

Specter.... your bike won't have the built in imobiliser either.

lost me even more with that one! well im 75kg's? and it still feels way better than a gpx250!

has had an alarm / immobilizer installed

[Pussy]

i seriously know fuck all about suspension, just what cowboyz told me, i honestly wouldn't know or don't think its annoying



lost me even more with that one! well im 75kg's? and it still feels way better than a gpx250!

has had an alarm / immobilizer installed

The immobiliser I'm referring to is the one built in to the ECU. The ignition key has a transponder in it.
Get your bike sprung for YOU, specter.... makes a pleasant difference

[Robert Taylor]

as posted earlier so far the bike has zero problems bar the temp readings (and as cowboys would say - soft front hard rear) im quite happy with it, was just wondering if there was a quick fix but im not gonna bitch and moan about it. thanks for the info guys!

The reality is the stock rear spring rate is pretty close for you, although given our high ratio of roads with bumps theres an argument to say that it could sustain a reduction to a 9, perhaps even an 8.5 albeit with a bit more preload. Shocks with very well arranged / calibrated hydraulics ( eg Ohlins TTX36 ) will in fact run an 8.5 or even an 8 spring for someone of your personal stats, on the road. Simply because the hydraulics are doing their job properly.
The reason the stock shock feels ''hard'' or rather harsh is predominantly because the stock internal rebound shimming is way too too firm and non responsive. Allied with that the taper on the internal rebound bypass needle is way too ''shallow'' and needs reprofiling to give a much better response range to external adjustment.
These shocks feel ''dead'' or ''wooden'' and external adjustments will NOT cure that problem. All external adjustments do is adjust bypass bleed, they will not magically revalve a shocks internals, which is what is needed.
The high speed compression adjuster does have a slightly better response range but its still relatively crude as its basically just a preloadable dump valve. It needs to have a fairly aggressive setting ( wound a long way inwards ) for track day use but coversely it needs winding out if you wish for compliant road use. But not wound so far out that it ''dumps its load'' rather too readily and then compromises chassis ride height control.
The front forks have much better ''bones'' than many but the glaring fault is that they are seriously deficient of high speed rebound. Because of that people wind in the external rebound adjusters way too far to try and compensate for a weak shim stack. It doesnt actually fix the problem but introduces another, that being it again gives a dead feel and compromises edge grip as the forks approach full extension when accelerating off corners. Fortunately it is fixable at reasonable cost and we have done a good many of these.

[specter]

The rear is not hard mate, it has no where near enough spring pre load on it from standard, making it compress to easily, leading you to believe it is to hard

sort of got the jist of what you were saying


The K6-K7 GSX-R750 is way OVER sprung for your average punter.
9.5n spring on the back, and 1.00kg/mm fork springs. Fine if you weigh more than 95kg.

was speaking absolute jargon


The reality is the stock rear spring rate is pretty close for you, although given our high ratio of roads with bumps theres an argument to say that it could sustain a reduction to a 9, perhaps even an 8.5 albeit with a bit more preload. Shocks with very well arranged / calibrated hydraulics ( eg Ohlins TTX36 ) will in fact run an 8.5 or even an 8 spring for someone of your personal stats, on the road. Simply because the hydraulics are doing their job properly.
The reason the stock shock feels ''hard'' or rather harsh is predominantly because the stock internal rebound shimming is way too too firm and non responsive. Allied with that the taper on the internal rebound bypass needle is way too ''shallow'' and needs reprofiling to give a much better response range to external adjustment.
These shocks feel ''dead'' or ''wooden'' and external adjustments will NOT cure that problem. All external adjustments do is adjust bypass bleed, they will not magically revalve a shocks internals, which is what is needed.
The high speed compression adjuster does have a slightly better response range but its still relatively crude as its basically just a preloadable dump valve. It needs to have a fairly aggressive setting ( wound a long way inwards ) for track day use but coversely it needs winding out if you wish for compliant road use. But not wound so far out that it ''dumps its load'' rather too readily and then compromises chassis ride height control.
The front forks have much better ''bones'' than many but the glaring fault is that they are seriously deficient of high speed rebound. Because of that people wind in the external rebound adjusters way too far to try and compensate for a weak shim stack. It doesnt actually fix the problem but introduces another, that being it again gives a dead feel and compromises edge grip as the forks approach full extension when accelerating off corners. Fortunately it is fixable at reasonable cost and we have done a good many of these.

you might as well of posted in arabic!

seriously thanks for the help though, might look into getting my suspension set up some time down the line

[Robert Taylor]

sort of got the jist of what you were saying



was speaking absolute jargon



you might as well of posted in arabic!

seriously thanks for the help though, might look into getting my suspension set up some time down the line

I think most of us like to have simple answers but the reality is the ''quick fix'' is not really a correct fix!

[macka77]

as posted earlier so far the bike has zero problems bar the temp readings (and as cowboys would say - soft front hard rear) im quite happy with it, was just wondering if there was a quick fix but im not gonna bitch and moan about it. thanks for the info guys!

well specter sounds u have the same bike as me Canadian spec,wont run celcius the temp runs 185 to 190 Fahrenheit. the 600 shock was hard, yep i replaced it with the 750 it was softer more balance front/rear.so i compared the two shock springs (tested at a car sus/specialist) 600 was 545lbs.and 750was 510lbs the rear feels softer and man it hooks up the rear (im 78kg) question- does the gas pressure affect the rebound?

[Pussy]

well specter sounds u have the same bike as me Canadian spec the 600 shock was hard, yep i replaced it with the 750 it was softer more balance front/rear.so i compared the two shock springs (tested at a car sus/specialist) 600 was 545lbs.and 750was 510lbs the rear feels softer and man it hooks up the rear (im 78kg) question- does the gas pressure affect the rebound?

Yours will be US spec... the Canadian ones have the temp in Celsius.
Out of the crate, the 750 actually has a stiffer spring than the 600 ( 9.5 N versus 9.4 N of the 600)