Engine oil?

[overworkedmonkey]

Guys,

Not sure how I can check the level of oil in the bike. There's a cap that looks I can twist open on the right side of the bike. Doesn't read oil though. There isn't a gauge either on the right unless the fairing is covering which I doubt it is. Any suggestions?

[AllanB]

What is the bike?


It will either have a dipstick or a sight glass window (in the side of the crankcase). The cap you describe is probably the oil filler cap (usually say oil) and if it has a dipstick it will be attached to this.

Open it up and see what happens.

It just occurred to me that it may be a Hosung you are riding - in which case I heard the engines are sealed at the factory as they will require rebuilding before the oil needs changing .....:facepalm:

[overworkedmonkey]

What is the bike?


It will either have a dipstick or a sight glass window (in the side of the crankcase). The cap you describe is probably the oil filler cap (usually say oil) and if it has a dipstick it will be attached to this.

Open it up and see what happens.

It just occurred to me that it may be a Hosung you are riding - in which case I heard the engines are sealed at the factory as they will require rebuilding before the oil needs changing .....:facepalm:

Would never buy a Hyosung. It's a CBR250RR. It doesn't have a sight glass window where the crankcase is. The oil filler cap is closed pretty tight though.
Is there a particular manner I should open it? Should the engine be cold or warm? What oil do I use?

[overworkedmonkey]

Ok. came across the following guide in the service manual. Now am unsure what these mean.

#1 Inspect the oil level but do not screw the level gauge in. What does it mean to inspect the oil level but not to scren the level gauge in?

#2 If the oil is too dirty, change the oil. - How do I know if the oil is dirty?

[Katman]

How the fuck do you manage to dress yourself in the morning? :facepalm:

[Logpot]

:gob:
226877

[cheshirecat]

How the fuck do you manage to dress yourself in the morning? :facepalm:

Don't be too hard on him he might be used to old landrovers which operate a constant loss system

[overworkedmonkey]

How the fuck do you manage to dress yourself in the morning? :facepalm:

Well, I start with selecting a tee-shirt from the closet, followed by boxers, jeans ending with the selection of the ammunition I like for the day for the AK47...

Gotta start somewhere...

[AllanB]

Yip see the filler hole has a dipstick on it. It just means you do not need to screw the cap down tight to use the dipstick to check the level. Screw it tight after you have checked. You'll probably find it fairly tight to undo as they have a O-ring under them and if nipped up tight it takes a bit to free it. Lefty loosey, righty tighty with nuts and bolts.

Oil colour - colour alone can be deceiving - some oils poor new very clear, others are quite dark out of the bottle - best is to slop some on your finger - if it is transparent ish - ie it does not blot out your finger then it is still relatively 'clean'. If it is black it is dirty.

Kms travelled are a better way of changing it - not sure on that engine but something like every 5,000 or annually.

A bike specific semi-synthetic oil 10w40 (oil weights) will be fine in that bike.

Why don't you post up looking for a local friendly KBer with some free time these holidays to run you through the basics of checking the bike over etc. A dozen beer is good currency. :yes: Just watch out if Carver offers his help - you may need to be careful if you are bending over near your bike ......:shutup:

[overworkedmonkey]

Yip see the filler hole has a dipstick on it. It just means you do not need to screw the cap down tight to use the dipstick to check the level. Screw it tight after you have checked. You'll probably find it fairly tight to undo as they have a O-ring under them and if nipped up tight it takes a bit to free it. Lefty loosey, righty tighty with nuts and bolts.

Oil colour - colour alone can be deceiving - some oils poor new very clear, others are quite dark out of the bottle - best is to slop some on your finger - if it is transparent ish - ie it does not blot out your finger then it is still relatively 'clean'. If it is black it is dirty.

Kms travelled are a better way of changing it - not sure on that engine but something like every 5,000 or annually.

A bike specific semi-synthetic oil 10w40 (oil weights) will be fine in that bike.

Why don't you post up looking for a local friendly KBer with some free time these holidays to run you through the basics of checking the bike over etc. A dozen beer is good currency. :yes: Just watch out if Carver offers his help - you may need to be careful if you are bending over near your bike ......:shutup:

Thanks mate. Starting to make more sense now. So assuming the oil is low, is it ok to simply top it up or will I need to drain it completely? Also once I loosen the cap, do I need to replace the O-ring?

Anyone is Auckland who has the know-how around bikes? Promise to bring a six pack along with me :-)

[bsasuper]

Unscrew the oil filler cap, wipe it clean, with the bike upright insert the dipstick/filler cap without screwing it in, pull it out and read the oil level, should be between the low and high mark.If it is low you can just add oil ( a little at a time, say 200ml and re-check the level.the o-ring does NOT need replacing.

[overworkedmonkey]

Unscrew the oil filler cap, wipe it clean, with the bike upright insert the dipstick/filler cap without screwing it in, pull it out and read the oil level, should be between the low and high mark.If it is low you can just add oil ( a little at a time, say 200ml and re-check the level.the o-ring does NOT need replacing.

Cool. Will give that a go. So I don't have to worry about mixing different types of oil?

[Logpot]

Unscrew the oil filler cap, wipe it clean, with the bike upright insert the dipstick/filler cap without screwing it in, pull it out and read the oil level, should be between the low and high mark.If it is low you can just add oil ( a little at a time, say 200ml and re-check the level.the o-ring does NOT need replacing.

I'd suggest even less than 200ml at a time.

They only need 2.3 litres after an oil and filter change so it wouldn't take much to overfill it.

[overworkedmonkey]

I'd suggest even less than 200ml at a time.

They only need 2.3 litres after an oil and filter change so it wouldn't take much to overfill it.

So I will have to change the filter? Seeing that I don't have all the skills yet to change oil filters, can I simply top up the oil until I either learn how to change the filter or to have it serviced by a mechanic?

[SMOKEU]

jeans ending with the selection of the ammunition I like for the day for the AK47...

Gotta start somewhere...

mmmmmmm.........hollow points.

[Logpot]

So I will have to change the filter? Seeing that I don't have all the skills yet to change oil filters, can I simply top up the oil until I either learn how to change the filter or to have it serviced by a mechanic?

To get started you can just top up the oil but I'd suggest a complete oil and filter change in the near future if you don't know the bike's service history.

[overworkedmonkey]

To get started you can just top up the oil but I'd suggest a complete oil and filter change in the near future if you don't know the bike's service history.

Cool. Intend to change it sometime soon however rather be safe until I have the skills to do it or to get a mechanic to do it. Any brand I should keep an eye out for?

[Logpot]

Cool. Intend to change it sometime soon however rather be safe until I have the skills to do it or to get a mechanic to do it. Any brand I should keep an eye out for?

I use Spectro oil and genuine Honda filters in mine.

[overworkedmonkey]

I use Spectro oil and genuine Honda filters in mine.

Can I get them at any petrol pump, I mean the oil? Where do you get the filters from?

[Logpot]

Can I get them at any petrol pump, I mean the oil? Where do you get the filters from?

Best you visit your local Honda dealer to order the filter and at the same time check out their range of oils.

[overworkedmonkey]

Best you visit your local Honda dealer to order the filter and at the same time check out their range of oils.

Thanks mate. Appreciate the help.

[bsasuper]

You can buy HiFlo filters from supercheap which are fine, and a bit cheaper than honda OEM.You need to use a motorcycle specific oil, its fine for topping up, if you dont know which oil is already in it.

[overworkedmonkey]

The service manual suggests 4-cycled motorcycle SAE 1OW-40 or SAE20W-50

[zmlam]

For the operators manual for my honda (VTR), it said I should warm up the bike first before looking at the oil level gauge. Also have to put the bike up right (instead of its default leaning on stand position), which changes level.

If I don't warm up the bike, the oil level seems very low. Once the bike has been around the block, it looks like its at the normal level.

Not sure if its a generic thing (to warm up the bike and make sure its upright) for checking oil level.

[AllanB]

Go with the 10w40 - available at all bike shops. You can mix brands etc for a top-up.

While you are looking over the bike please check the tyre pressures - I am unsure what your bike should run but there is usually a sticker on the chain-guard or swingarm (unless removed like I do!) that tells you what he cold tyre pressure should be.

Bikes are very sensitive to tyre pressures and a few psi low can stuff up their handling and cause tyre wear.

[overworkedmonkey]

Go with the 10w40 - available at all bike shops. You can mix brands etc for a top-up.

While you are looking over the bike please check the tyre pressures - I am unsure what your bike should run but there is usually a sticker on the chain-guard or swingarm (unless removed like I do!) that tells you what he cold tyre pressure should be.

Bikes are very sensitive to tyre pressures and a few psi low can stuff up their handling and cause tyre wear.

Thanks. Is the difference in the two types of oil just the viscousity?

Thanks for heads up. Will check the PSI. If it isn't on the chain-guard or swing-arm, what's the best way to check the required tyre pressure?

[Buyasta]

Thanks. Is the difference in the two types of oil just the viscousity?

Thanks for heads up. Will check the PSI. If it isn't on the chain-guard or swing-arm, what's the best way to check the required tyre pressure?

Recommended pressures should be in your service manual, although if it's not running stock tyres they could potentially be different. It may be written on the side of your tyres, possibly in the form of "Max load x kg at y bar".

[overworkedmonkey]

Recommended pressures should be in your service manual, although if it's not running stock tyres they could potentially be different. It may be written on the side of your tyres, possibly in the form of "Max load x kg at y bar".

Would it also have the actual PSI the tyres should have?

[Buyasta]

Would it also have the actual PSI the tyres should have?

1 bar = 100 kPa = 14.5038 psi

The example I gave above was just an example of what is written on a tyre I had at hand, it may be written in various different units of pressure, although the most likely would be psi, bar, or kPa (kilopascals) - pounds per square inch is obviously the imperial measurement, while metric is the pascal, which equates to one newton per square metre.

If you just google you'll find plenty of online calculators to convert between the different units (like so: http://www.onlineconversion.com/pressure.htm), so whatever it is written in, you should be able to find it's equivalent in psi easily enough.

[overworkedmonkey]

Sweet. Thanks for your help.

[Quasievil]

Bring it down to Hamilton if you want dude, I will go through some stuff with you over a few hours.
Bring a Filter n oil (might have some oil will check if you come down)
I will teach ya how to do stuff , chain tensions suspensions and tyres etc.
Will be all good as Im not going anywhere much this Xmas.