Transalp project

[CRM]

Thought I would share my new project - a 2006 Transalp with 44k that I want to set up as the ultimate go-anywhere long-distance adventure-tourer.

I wanted a bike that will do high mileage as I travel the country several times a year, be comfortable for long days in the saddle, ultra-reliable, economical, capable of any kind of road or pseudo-road and be easy and fun to ride. I toyed with a GS but for my budget I would have had to get a high mileage - plus I didn't really want or need the weight and extra size.

The Transalp already has been set up quite nicely:

Heavy duty clutch
Scottoiler
Michelin T63 tyres
Power outlet for accessories


I've bought a compressor which fits under the seat along with tool kit, tyre repair stuff, tyre levers, tape, syphon kit, rags, spare lever (heaps of room under there!)

I've thought about different tyres but the T63's are actually great performing on the road (I had one on the back of my XR600 when I did the South Island on that) and very good offroad. They will wear rather fast but they aren't that expensive so that's the trade-off of go-anywhere tyres.

I got a Ventura rack off trade-me with a nearly new bag for $60 and that bolts on to the top of the Transalp rack using top-box connectors (no need for the expensive Ventura brackets). So I can use my big Ventura bag and Oxford soft saddlebags and Ventura tank-bag for long-distance touring, and the smaller Ventura bag for around town, or take the rack off and just use the panniers for more hard-core adventures.

Other things to do:

Better bars (originals are a bit rusty - prefer CR High-bend MX style)
Replace the back indicators with something less vulnerable
Some crash-knobs to try to protect the fairing (already has a couple of minor cracks)
Maybe a centre-stand
A Staintune pipe for bit more performance and less weight (very much on wish-list)


Any other suggestions?

Clive

[Waihou Thumper]

Any other suggestions?

Clive

Clive, you have had some perfectly capable bikes for ADV riding......even road and trail...whatever you do to this bike will be a personal preference.....
There is a wealth of information on here that is NOT bike specific....Maybe start there. You have already done things to other bikes, adapt and carry on for the Honda....
Good luck.....:yes:

[thepom]

why not go for an older 600? ...........

[Padmei]

Looks good CRM. All you need is the gps & you're all good to go.
Is th ecompressor for your queensize blow up airbed?

[CRM]

why not go for an older 600? ...........

This one came up for a good price ($6k) and its a one owner bike, fully serviced by Honda dealers. The guy who had it used it for adventure touring with his wife on the back and looked after it well mechanically although it's got some scratches and marks (which is why it was a good price). There was so little to do on it, plus I love the way it handles I didn't look any further. Everything else I'd seen in my price range was either way older or way higher mileage or both. Reliability is a big factor so the newer the better as far as I'm concerned (although I prefer the 650 to the 700 as the 700 only has a 19" front wheel and carries more weight - more akin to a V-Strom).

[CRM]

Looks good CRM. All you need is the gps & you're all good to go.
Is th ecompressor for your queensize blow up airbed?

Yep - that's under the seat too.

Actually I had some compressed air canisters but seeing there was so much room and a power outlet I thought I'd go for the compressor, so when I get to somewhere I need to deflate for it's an easy job to go up to road pressure again (plus for flats of course). I'm thinking I'll need a centre stand if I'm going to attempt tyre changes - she's a bit heavy to prop up with a few sticks.

[junkmanjoe]

no matter what anyone else say............build it how you want it,:yes: hop on it and ride it how you want to :scooter: go where you want to and enjoy your creation.:cool:

JMJ

[CRM]

Add to wish list:
- GPS (I'll get away with the one on my iPhone for on-road stuff at least for now)
- Heated grips (or heated gloves http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=344419608 - anybody tried these?)
- Off-road footpegs (actually got a pair with the bike - just need to fit)
- Haynes manual

[CRM]

no matter what anyone else say............build it how you want it,:yes: hop on it and ride it how you want to :scooter: go where you want to and enjoy your creation.:cool:

JMJ

Yeah I'm itching to get it out in the back-blocks and see how it goes. It feels just like a big Honda trail bike - maybe my confidence will fade a little when I get it in a tight spot.

A mate came round yesterday on his XR600 and took the Trans for a ride to compare. The XR is about 30mm taller (good for me being 5'9ish and him being 6'3") but of course the TA is way more comfy and smoother than the XR6. With similar gearing (his is geared up for the road) he thought power felt about the same. Of course with the extra 40-50kg weight in the TA it's not as quick to loft the front but it's handling is very nimble and flickable. It doesn't feel heavy at all when you are riding and it's very easy to balance at low speed (mind you I've been riding a VFR for the last 10 months).

[junkmanjoe]

one thing i noticed about riding different weight bikes on gravel, i rather have a heaver bike, as they seam to sit better and not so skitty on the gravel, better planted in the corners..
kinda feel a bit safer...:scooter:

JMJ

[buggsubique]

The motors on these are great.

I know mine's an AT, but similar bikes really...(ie big vtwin, offroadable).

If you can aford it, get some intiminators for the front shocks. I can't afford, but they are apparently worth the bikes weight in gold and fix the shocks up a bit.

Engine bars are a must. You will feel a lot better when they snap instead of your fairings.

Carry a spare brake and clutch lever in your tool kit.

Trim the bottom of your rear mud guard off. A good sized hit will likely force the back wheel into it as it is.

Check your regulator / rectifier connections for heat damage depending on accessory loading. You can get heavy duty ones imported for a hundy or so.

Usual check of wheel bearings, don't be shy to tap some new ones in with fresh grease....I didn't and ground to a halt in the Rainbow...:facepalm:

I'd love to get a TA and Trailbike-ify it. But that's just the mongrel in me...

[CRM]

one thing i noticed about riding different weight bikes on gravel, i rather have a heaver bike, as they seam to sit better and not so skitty on the gravel, better planted in the corners..
kinda feel a bit safer...:scooter:

JMJ

Yeah I think you're probably right. My XR600 was awesome in gravel though and they are fairly light - it did dance around quite a bit though. A narrow front tyre and 21" wheel is hugely better than smaller wider one like on a V-Strom as it will dig down instead of floating across the top. I really don't like the feel of that...:shutup:

[CRM]

The motors on these are great.

I know mine's an AT, but similar bikes really...(ie big vtwin, offroadable).

If you can aford it, get some intiminators for the front shocks. I can't afford, but they are apparently worth the bikes weight in gold and fix the shocks up a bit.

Engine bars are a must. You will feel a lot better when they snap instead of your fairings.

Carry a spare brake and clutch lever in your tool kit.

Trim the bottom of your rear mud guard off. A good sized hit will likely force the back wheel into it as it is.

Check your regulator / rectifier connections for heat damage depending on accessory loading. You can get heavy duty ones imported for a hundy or so.

Usual check of wheel bearings, don't be shy to tap some new ones in with fresh grease....I didn't and ground to a halt in the Rainbow...:facepalm:

I'd love to get a TA and Trailbike-ify it. But that's just the mongrel in me...

Thanks for the tips - I wondered about suspension upgrades. I guess I'll push it to it's limits and then think about what it needs in that department. Just noticed that the rear rotor has a crack in it so that will need replacing - it's fairly worn os must have been original. The front ones seem much better - presumably been replaced at some stage.

I'm reluctant about engine bars. I had them on my VStrom and they were just so fugly and heavy and awkward. That's why I'm wondering about crash-knobs - probably less protection but at least should protect in a drop. Also the fairings have already had a few knocks so I'm not overly protective of them as if they were spotless. I may regret that... :facepalm:

Took the GF (wife) on the back today out to the beach. She liked it - said it was the most comfortable bike I've owned :woohoo:

[NordieBoy]

one thing i noticed about riding different weight bikes on gravel, i rather have a heaver bike, as they seam to sit better and not so skitty on the gravel, better planted in the corners..
kinda feel a bit safer...:scooter:

JMJ

The smoothest ride I've done through the Maungatapu was with a lightish teenager on the back.
Just pushed the bike into the ground nicely without too much extra weight.

[CRM]

I've attached the ventura rack just using a couple of brackets. Works well and easy to remove totally if required. Pictures show the Scottoiler mounted behind the fairing and the cracked rear disk :sick:. I have a new one to fit as soon as I get a moment or two. The other shot shows the crack in the fairing from previous owners adventures. I'm wondering whether just squirting a bit of glue in might stop more cracking.

Anybody tried crash-knobs on a Transalp? Not sure where the best place to attach them would be. Maybe on my knees and elbows? Better still just not fall off I guess :weird:

[DR650gary]

I would be nervous about riding with that cracked disc. Are you sure that is a break in the fairing, looks like a deep gouge to me. Either way, if you want spotless it will be a repaint whatever you do. You would be wise to get it welded, if it is a break, as any other repair will eventually fail. If suitable for a stripe there, you could put some glass sheet on the back and fill the gouge with a fibreglass filler and then stick the stripe on, but it looks a great bike so will look nice if welded, filled and painted.

Just my thoughts.

[buggsubique]

The other shot shows the crack in the fairing from previous owners adventures. I'm wondering whether just squirting a bit of glue in might stop more cracking.

Anybody tried crash-knobs on a Transalp? Not sure where the best place to attach them would be. Maybe on my knees and elbows? Better still just not fall off I guess :weird:

Engine Bars. Get Engine Bars. They're not very heavy.

I've got a few cracks I need to tend to so am about to start frigging around with plastic repairs. The fairings are likely ABS (black under the paint) and while you can get abs "welding" rods to use in a plastic welder, a lot of guys use acetone or plastic model glue (you know the sh*t that melts plastic).

The idea with the acetone is to liquefy ABS offcuts in it to make a runny goo of ABS and use it to backfill a crack or reinforce a crack on the rear side of the fairings. sand yer paint off and prep the area first, spread the gunk in, the acetone evaporates out of the mixture over a few days and the whole lot is bonded...not stuck together, but bonded structurally.

Oops, gotta go, the kids are outside squirting acetone at each other...

[CRM]

I would be nervous about riding with that cracked disc. Are you sure that is a break in the fairing, looks like a deep gouge to me. Either way, if you want spotless it will be a repaint whatever you do. You would be wise to get it welded, if it is a break, as any other repair will eventually fail. If suitable for a stripe there, you could put some glass sheet on the back and fill the gouge with a fibreglass filler and then stick the stripe on, but it looks a great bike so will look nice if welded, filled and painted.

Just my thoughts.

Yeah the fairing is definitely cracked - there's one on the other side too. I'm not too concerned about spotless otherwise I'll be too careful with it. This bike is for fun not pretty. But neither do I want big ugly repair marks. Maybe I'll check out the cost of having it professionally done and repainted but that's not really in the budget :no:

[CRM]

Engine Bars. Get Engine Bars. They're not very heavy.

I've got a few cracks I need to tend to so am about to start frigging around with plastic repairs. The fairings are likely ABS (black under the paint) and while you can get abs "welding" rods to use in a plastic welder, a lot of guys use acetone or plastic model glue (you know the sh*t that melts plastic).

The idea with the acetone is to liquefy ABS offcuts in it to make a runny goo of ABS and use it to backfill a crack or reinforce a crack on the rear side of the fairings. sand yer paint off and prep the area first, spread the gunk in, the acetone evaporates out of the mixture over a few days and the whole lot is bonded...not stuck together, but bonded structurally.

Oops, gotta go, the kids are outside squirting acetone at each other...

Sounds good - I hear it smells good too:crazy:

[DR650gary]

Yeah the fairing is definitely cracked - there's one on the other side too. I'm not too concerned about spotless otherwise I'll be too careful with it. This bike is for fun not pretty. But neither do I want big ugly repair marks. Maybe I'll check out the cost of having it professionally done and repainted but that's not really in the budget :no:

The repair cost won't be excessive but will leave a black weld line, it's the painting that will cost. If you can score a cheap replacement use that until you can afford the paint cost. Unrepaired they usually grow.

A fractured disc could solve the whole problem.

Cheers

[CRM]

The repair cost won't be excessive but will leave a black weld line, it's the painting that will cost. If you can score a cheap replacement use that until you can afford the paint cost. Unrepaired they usually grow.

A fractured disc could solve the whole problem.

Cheers

Haha. Planning on changing that shortly before I do a ride with the wife in the weekend. Just hoping my dirt-bike stand will fit under the Tranny's big belly :apumpin:

[Skinny_Birdman]

I got the Givi engine bars for both my 650's, they aren't too bad for weight, and I think they improve the appearance of the bike, tho that's pretty subjective. D's Tranny came with an aftermarket centrestand, which rocks but alas the engine bars mount to the centrestand mounting point. After the DB I intend to do some modifying so that it can have both (and if I can make it work I'll get myself one).

[CRM]

I got the Givi engine bars for both my 650's, they aren't too bad for weight, and I think they improve the appearance of the bike, tho that's pretty subjective. D's Tranny came with an aftermarket centrestand, which rocks but alas the engine bars mount to the centrestand mounting point. After the DB I intend to do some modifying so that it can have both (and if I can make it work I'll get myself one).

What sort of cost are the Givi's? They do look okay. I would like a centerstand too so maybe someone does a combo?

I changed the rear disk yesterday. I managed to get my dirt bike lift stand under it okay without jacking it up - perfect with a little prop under to side-stand to stop it falling over onto the car:niceone:.

Changing the disk was the easy part but I couldn't get the pins out to change the disk pads with my basic allen key set - need ones you can put on a wrench handle I suspect - really tight :angry:. So just running with the existing ones at present as they have plenty of life in them - they do recommend you change both at the same time but not sure if that's just a way to sell more consumables.

[Skinny_Birdman]

Givi bars are ~$220 a set. Conneyr has offered the use of his welder, grinder and eye-ometer to try and re-kajigger the stand and bars - I will let you know how we get on. SW Motech (http://www.motorradgarage.com.au/catalog/index.php?cPath=93_95&sort=2a&page=1) do engine bars, centrestand and bash plate, but make sure you have your wallet handy cos you won;t get much change from $1000AU.:shit:

[Skinny_Birdman]

After both Transalps got tired and had a lie down on the Dusty Butt, I have discovered that the Givi bars on both bent over so that they touched the fairings, marking the paint (although not crushing the plastic as I had first feared). They were easily bent back into shape, but it has given me pause for thought, and might make you reconsider their merits. TimG has Touratech bars on his 'Alp, it would be interesting to hear his opinion on those. They look, um, serious, extending up as far as the headlight! He also has lots of other nice bling including an SW-Motech centrestand.
I also made a rather immediate and permanent modification to my 'orrid Givi screen. TimG has kindly offered me his stock jobbie as a replacement.

[CRM]

After both Transalps got tired and had a lie down on the Dusty Butt, I have discovered that the Givi bars on both bent over so that they touched the fairings, marking the paint (although not crushing the plastic as I had first feared). They were easily bent back into shape, but it has given me pause for thought, and might make you reconsider their merits. TimG has Touratech bars on his 'Alp, it would be interesting to hear his opinion on those. They look, um, serious, extending up as far as the headlight! He also has lots of other nice bling including an SW-Motech centrestand.
I also made a rather immediate and permanent modification to my 'orrid Givi screen. TimG has kindly offered me his stock jobbie as a replacement.

Sounds like it was a lot of fun... Mine's been sitting still for the past week and a half apart from a trip to a cafe at the beach with the wife and some friends on their cruiser :cool:

Still thinking through my options and doing a bit of research over protection bars.

[warewolf]

Changing the disk was the easy part but I couldn't get the pins out to change the disk pads with my basic allen key set - need ones you can put on a wrench handle I suspect - really tight :angry:. So just running with the existing ones at present as they have plenty of life in them - they do recommend you change both at the same time but not sure if that's just a way to sell more consumables.Pad pins tend to seize especially if they are the screw-in type, so use some copperslip-type lube on them, and the caliper mounts if they bind as well.

Check your pad pins for wear, replace as necessary. I'm due to replace the rear pads in the LC4 for the first time now, the beach racing finished them off! :yeah: The pad pin looks like a crinkle-cut chip! So it'll be replaced... should've actually done it sooner, but didn't think the pads would last this long.

[Old Grant]

I recently traded a 06 for a new 09 700. I thought I would miss the 21"front on the grave but I hardly notice the differance. I imported a set of Hepco and Becker engine guards for the new bike and a set of pannier frames from the same manufacturer. I have tried several differant tyres on both bikes and now would not use anything other than Mitas EO7. They are cheap, good on and off the road and wear well. The Transalp is a very underrated bike in New Zealand, very comfortable on road and not to be underestimated off it.

[Skinny_Birdman]

I waved Blue'Alp goodbye:bye: last week. Its new (old) owner has plans for it (perhaps he will elaborate, hmmmm?), so look out for another Transalp project..... It was great adv bike for me, an awesome first big bike for D and a pretty sweet commuter as well, and it took us everywhere from Cape Reinga to Dunners over the three years. It must have been good, 'cos I owned it longer than any other bike I've had.:scooter:

[Transalper]

Yee ha... I'm a Transalper again.

It's paint is crap and the crash bars are a bit marked up etc etc but ideally it would look something like this attached pic when I'm done :woohoo:
Pic from the www.twistedthrottle.com/ (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/imagecatalogue/imageview/1821/?RefererURL=/trade/productview/291/162/)
But it's going to be a long road and I'm not sure if I'll end up with original looking paint or something simpler and easier to touch up.
Centerstand would be nice but how do you tell if you bike was meant for US or Euro market? Seems the centre stand fist one but not the other. Speedo is in miles so I'm thinking US? Twisted throttle talks about a bar underneath one but not the other. I'll look later.

The alloy SW moto bash plate could be on the wish list too, but after the paint I suspect.
Seat re sculpting and a new cover is on the list as well.

[Skinny_Birdman]

I was always confused as to why a bike first registered in Japan and probably built in Italy had a MPH speedo. I'll see if the Haynes :)manual (which has a list of serials) can shed any light on the intended market.

[Skinny_Birdman]

Checked the serials, and they match the UK market numbers, for what it's worth.

[CRM]

I priced some Givi engine protection bars through local Honda shop - $245 apparently which is a lot cheaper than other models could be imported so I think I'll go with those.

I went into the local model shop to ask about repairing my fairing with model glue as suggested. Turns out the proprietor is a BMW owner who has just done a similar repair on his fairing. He's also recently completed a tour though Australia on a 600 Transalp. So he's keen to help and suggested I take the fairings off and bring them into his workshop and work on them there using the rest of the 2-pack treatment he used:yes:

Once that's done I'll go over the other blemishes with the plastic restorer (PC Racing Plastic Renew used with great success on my VFR where it had a little lie down) and she should be (sort-of) like new :shutup:

Also thinking about sourcing a new screen as the one I have is pretty marked. What are the options there? Anyone looked into it?

230900230901

[Skinny_Birdman]

Best price for a screen may be Visual Plastics (http://www.godiva.co.nz/). They do a stock shape and a 200mm touring screen. They do look a bit odd because they don't have the black decal at the bottom end. Alternatively, I understand the Givi ones are around $180. I could have given you one 50% off :laugh: but both pieces went in the bin. Personally I thought that the Givi one was too short for me (6 foot) ie my head was in the airflow. TimG seems to like his tho.

Re: The Givi bars, I have put a rectangle of scuff stuff under the bars on either fairing panel, to stop the panels getting garked by the bars if they do lean over a bit. I am :angry: to discover that you can't remove the fairings once the bars are on. Once again, the 600 was better in this respect.

[Transalper]

Stumbled upon this today.... Microfiche for the 600s and 650s.. linky. (http://www.transalp.de/technik/pd-technik/verschiedenes/teilekatalog.php)
Skinny_Birdman, looks like the centerstand spring is supposed to be on the right side on the 600. I missed the fabricator man on Friday but have emailed him for an appointment.

Also found my new paint job. Photoshopped out the orange stripes to leave the bit I want. Now it's just a matter of gathering cash. :wait:

[thepom]

mnnn...nice!

[Transalper]

Id go blue again but seems this may be another original colour scheme and the bees and wasps really like hanging around blue, I don't like it when they hang around. :no:

[CRM]

Best price for a screen may be Visual Plastics (http://www.godiva.co.nz/). They do a stock shape and a 200mm touring screen. They do look a bit odd because they don't have the black decal at the bottom end. Alternatively, I understand the Givi ones are around $180. I could have given you one 50% off :laugh: but both pieces went in the bin. Personally I thought that the Givi one was too short for me (6 foot) ie my head was in the airflow. TimG seems to like his tho.

Re: The Givi bars, I have put a rectangle of scuff stuff under the bars on either fairing panel, to stop the panels getting garked by the bars if they do lean over a bit. I am :angry: to discover that you can't remove the fairings once the bars are on. Once again, the 600 was better in this respect.

Thanks for that :hug:. I got a quote from Visual Plastics for $179 for any size. They do a touring screen which is 22", the basic one is 15" - or they can do any size in between. I'm wondering about getting a higher one for my long distance trips and maybe keeping the short one I have on now for bush-crashing :shutup:.

I don't like huge ugly screens and I'm not that tall (5'9ish") so I don't think the full big screen would be that useful - but maybe something in between like a 19"? Any suggestions or experience? Also I'm thinking a light tint rather than clear - but wondering if for a taller screen that may not be the best - better to go for clear. Decisions decisions :scratch:

[Skinny_Birdman]

Stumbled upon this today.... Microfiche for the 600s and 650s.. linky. (http://www.transalp.de/technik/pd-technik/verschiedenes/teilekatalog.php)
Skinny_Birdman, looks like the centerstand spring is supposed to be on the right side on the 600. I missed the fabricator man on Friday but have emailed him for an appointment.

Also found my new paint job. Photoshopped out the orange stripes to leave the bit I want. Now it's just a matter of gathering cash. :wait:

Nice paint! You beaut! Do you know how long I have been looking for a fiche for the '650? Regarding the centrestand that you may or may not have, can I grab it tonight at the usual time? I will have to save my pennies for a SW Moto one.:violin: for the 'other' 'Alp (ie Mine).

[Transalper]

Ahh, the usual time is on a Thursday isn't it? or is the just the usual day and the usual time applys to any day :blink:
I was Wednesday Night Riding with the roadys to Oxford. Just got back sorry.

[cynna]

Id go blue again but seems this may be another original colour scheme and the bees and wasps really like hanging around blue, I don't like it when they hang around. :no:

so it was your fault i got stung on that ride a couple of weeks ago

[Skinny_Birdman]

Ahh, the usual time is on a Thursday isn't it? or is the just the usual day and the usual time applys to any day :blink:
I was Wednesday Night Riding with the roadys to Oxford. Just got back sorry.

Sorry, I was being hopeless. Will text you. Did you have a nice play date with the roadies?

[Transalper]

Sorry, I was being hopeless. Will text you. Did you have a nice play date with the roadies?
Pleasant enough, wasn't going to go but as the day wore on I could feel the Transalp calling me.

Did find myself glancing down a few shingle roads as we passed them but at least did get to explore a couple of small country roads after leaving Oxford toward the Waimak gorge.

[CRM]

I got the new screen from Visual Plastics (http://www.godiva.co.nz/) (aka Bikescreens aka Godiva) today - pretty quick!! Gary was super-helpful - said that if I find it is too high I can send it back and he will trim it down a bit for me. :first:

I ended up getting it made at 20". Full height was 22" but I'm not super tall so thought this would be good...

Pictures of before and after below. It certainly looks nice. Fitting it was fairly straight-forward apart from the pesky little rubber gromet thingies that hold the screen on. The idea (I discovered) is to pull them out before you try to pull the screen of otherwise they fall down inside the fairing... One was a little awkward to get in the new screen so drilled the hole a bit wider. Now it's all sweet.

I also had to adjust the bars back a little as the barkbusters hit the screen at full lock. Now they just touch it and just touch the tank. :niceone:

My only problem now is getting the WOF unstuck from the old screen - when I try it disintegrates. :facepalm: Then I go for a ride and see what it's like...:scooter:

photos are the new screen, unboxing and old screen...

[Skinny_Birdman]

Good stuff! All of those stupid grommet things on both silver 'Alps were knackered (on D's 'Alp, well, don't put loctite in them:facepalm: would be my advice - on my 'Alp they had been replaced with non Honda ones which didn't compress properly). They are $14 each :shit:!! So I replaced them with a piece of rubber tube over the bolt, then a soft tap washer compressed by a flat brass washer and secured with a nyloc nut, seeing as they are all pretty accessible. Cost? $20 for 20 (only needed 12, but spares are handy).

My latest purchase was one of these (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Fairing/auction-353784465.htm), too good a deal to pass up. They still have one left, if anyone wants one. They have quoted me $540 for a new LH one, which is tempting......

Something else you might want to consider CRM is a headlight guard. Headlights are dear as, eh? Ventura guards are $70ish, or else get a piece of self adhesive soft acrylic, snip snip and Bob's your Aunty. I got some from a windscreen repair outfit last time, but I lashed out and bought Venturas for both 'Alps.

[CRM]

I think my next purchase might be the Givi engine guards. Thinking I might just sneak some super-glue in the fairing cracks and put gaffer tape on the backs, then polish them up with the Givi bars they shouldn't have any more problems.

I've got a big trip coming up at the end of March - down as far as at least Timaru :woohoo: so hope to do Arthurs Pass again this time and all the cool rides up there. Not sure if I'll have time to do much else too remote as I've got two weeks to get there and back and clients to visit along the way (spoils a good ride really but that's what pays the bills :yes:)

[Transalper]

Last night I ordered the SW-Motech Centerstand from Twisted Throttle for the 600V.
Also ordered the spring tool to make life easier putting it on and taking it off if I ever need to.
Tool US$29.99
Stand US$179.99
Freight US$82.11.

Total US$292.09.
Google reckoned that's about NZ$384.17.
Using my debit plus card I know there's a small exchange fee or something...
Total deducted from my account NZ $387.88
So that's all good... except now I just got the warning email from the bank saying you are broke, :shutup: I know that already, payday's on monday night :innocent:

Just been outside to look, but it ain't here yet. :wait::weep::wait:

[thepom]

You have too much money............:scooter:

[NordieBoy]

You have too much money............:scooter:

Not any more :corn:

[CRM]

Took her out for a ride on the open road with the new 20" screen. I noticed that going into a headwind it seemed to generate a bit a head-shake over about 95 - like you get following a large truck sometimes like you are in vibrating bow-wave (but without the truck) - a little disconcerting actually. Coming back it was fine. Maybe I'll send it back to Gary and get him to cut it down to standard 15". It also seemed a bit noisier than the standard screen with no great advantage. Interesting experiment though :blink:

[timg]

Last night I ordered the SW-Motech Centerstand from Twisted Throttle Sheez :facepalm: I could have sold ya one. $8500. Comes with a free red whale :shutup:

[timg]

Took her out for a ride on the open road with the new 20" screen. I noticed that going into a headwind it seemed to generate a bit a head-shake over about 95 - like you get following a large truck sometimes like you are in vibrating bow-wave (but without the truck) - a little disconcerting actually. Coming back it was fine. Maybe I'll send it back to Gary and get him to cut it down to standard 15". It also seemed a bit noisier than the standard screen with no great advantage. Interesting experiment though :blink: I liked my Givi touring screen. It has a bit of a kick up at the top which yours does'nt. From my understanding you want your helmet in clear air but the screen high enuf to take the wind off your chest. When deciding on screens I made some screen extensions out of an old real estate sign and taped them to the existing screen until I stumbled on what seemed to be the optimum size for me. The best screen was a MRA vario screen but the buffeting two up was unreal. Cheers, Tim

[Transalper]

Sheez :facepalm: I could have sold ya one. $8500. Comes with a free red whale :shutup:

think I going to come round and give you a :kick:

[CRM]

Sheez :facepalm: I could have sold ya one. $8500. Comes with a free red whale :shutup:

Hey Tim if the purchaser doesn't want the centrestand, engine guards or pannier racks let me know I could probably find somewhere to put them :yes: even the seat could work...:shutup:

Looks like really nicely set up. How much difference does the pipe/airbox mod make do you think? I'm wondering if it's worth doing to mine.

[timg]

Hey Tim if the purchaser doesn't want the centrestand, engine guards or pannier racks let me know I could probably find somewhere to put them :yes: even the seat could work...:shutup:

Looks like really nicely set up. How much difference does the pipe/airbox mod make do you think? I'm wondering if it's worth doing to mine. I don't have the Dyno sheets any more but there was a 4hp difference, went from something like 48hp at the rear wheel to 52hp. Airbox drilled, cat removed and re jetted for optimum fueling. There's quite a bit of info on the www eg http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/transalp/19159-airbox-mod-worth-doing-2.html Cheers, Tim.

[CRM]

I don't have the Dyno sheets any more but there was a 4hp difference, went from something like 48hp at the rear wheel to 52hp. Airbox drilled, cat removed and re jetted for optimum fueling. There's quite a bit of info on the www eg http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/transalp/19159-airbox-mod-worth-doing-2.html Cheers, Tim.

Thanks for that - there's some good stuff on that site too. I liked this thread (http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/transalp/73276-transalp-offroad-2.html) about setting them up for offroad.

[CRM]

Low beam quit on me the other night. I've got a new bulb but not finding swapping them over to be quite the easy task :doh:.

Is there a trick? Do I have to remove the fairing (if so what part). Do they deliberately make this hard or was it just an accident? :bye: Thanks guys

[timg]

Low beam quit on me the other night. I've got a new bulb but not finding swapping them over to be quite the easy task :doh:.

Is there a trick? Do I have to remove the fairing (if so what part). Do they deliberately make this hard or was it just an accident? :bye: Thanks guys The easy way is to just by my bike http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=357830227 If you are too cheap or a masochist remove the black plastic surround around the instruments/inner cowl, then unbolt the speedo cluster and push it to one side and you can see what you are doing. Access the bulb from underneath a real contortionists nightmare. There's a rubber cover over the connections to peel back, and then there's a wire clip that releases the bulb.
It un-clips on the left hand side. If you force it and it pops out of its hinge arrangement on the right side its a right bugger to get back together - don't ask! :facepalm: One of those wee round flexible mirrors is a now worth its weight in gold bullion... If they tried a little harder they could have made it bloody impossible instead of just friggin difficult:weird: Cheers.

[Transalper]

Yay, courier came this morning, the Center Stand for my 600V has arrived complete with Calendar and Catalogue.
Earthquake held it up by about a week.

233578

[Skinny_Birdman]

I'm assuming that all the bikes in your garage were packed in so tight they stayed upright? Or did they have soft landings on your huge tyre stockpiles?:bleh:

The Givi bars on D's 'Alp once again proved their worth when it took a dive during the quake, and mine fell against/through the window of our file room at work, then fell back out again. This being the least of our worries as our office is about 100m from the Grand Chancellor - won't be getting in there soon....

[Transalper]

Never had any bikes fall in any of our quakes. Thinking about that I'll be keeping the TA on it's side stand except when doing maintenance on changes etc as the side stand is probably more stable.

J's DR fell over sideways this time though... it went up and over to the right side... away from the sidestand. no damage to it though.

The new centre stand is harder to use than your 650 one when on my 600.
I think it could use a longer foot leaver and slightly (5mm?) shorter legs would probably help.
I've just put the stand on and just realised the extra bit that I wasn't going to bother with is a grab handle so yep, installing that now.

[CRM]

The easy way is to just by my bike http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=357830227 If you are too cheap or a masochist remove the black plastic surround around the instruments/inner cowl, then unbolt the speedo cluster and push it to one side and you can see what you are doing. Access the bulb from underneath a real contortionists nightmare. There's a rubber cover over the connections to peel back, and then there's a wire clip that releases the bulb.
It un-clips on the left hand side. If you force it and it pops out of its hinge arrangement on the right side its a right bugger to get back together - don't ask! :facepalm: One of those wee round flexible mirrors is a now worth its weight in gold bullion... If they tried a little harder they could have made it bloody impossible instead of just friggin difficult:weird: Cheers.

Still struggling with this. I'm not real good with Rubics Cubes or wooden puzzles either :angry:. When I have a spare day I'll just pull all the front off to figure out how it all works - in the meantime I've taken the screen off and lost one of the rubbery bits down in the bowels so I guess I have to take it all apart now. Maybe I'll take some pictures and publish a "Transalp headlight bulbs changing for Dummy's" book :blink:

[thepom]

Well my blackbird fell on its side and munted mirrors,panels,screen and other stuff so I,m gutted...........my pushbike fell over and the xt600 fell on it and then the tenere fell on top of that and then everything from the roof storage fell on them all,including shocks and gearboxes......and my house is munted...and my girlfriends house too............could be worse,I could have run out of red wine.:shit:

[CRM]

Well my blackbird fell on its side and munted mirrors,panels,screen and other stuff so I,m gutted...........my pushbike fell over and the xt600 fell on it and then the tenere fell on top of that and then everything from the roof storage fell on them all,including shocks and gearboxes......and my house is munted...and my girlfriends house too............could be worse,I could have run out of red wine.:shit:

And I thought I had problems having trouble with changing a lightbulb :facepalm: You guys really are in a bad way...

[CRM]

I decided to get serious with it yesterday afternoon and do a photo-shoot so others like me :blink: can follow how to do it.

First thing was to remove the black surround from around the instrument panel. This involved taking off the screen (4 screws then as you pull out the screen try not to let the rubber grommets get sucked into black holes). Then take out the screws pointing forward through the surround on either side of the instrument housing. Then the screws going down on the sides of the surround. Then there are a couple of plastic tabs just below those screws on the inside. These are trickier - I used a very small flat screwdriver blade to lift up the centre piece and pull out - once that's out the outside bit removes easier. Some of these also have phillips heads on the centre part just to fool you into thinking they are screws. If you turn them 1/4 turn they pop out a bit which means you can then prise them out with a flat head screwdriver or get some small needle-nose pliers on them. They can break by the way...:shutup:

Once these are all removed the black surround should feel a little looser. The fairing can be gently separated apart to let it come out (if in doubt just go ahead and remove the fairing - that's what I ended up doing anyway as I couldn't get the bulb out even with the instrument surround removed).

Once the surround is out you can remove the four bolts that hold the instrument panel in place and swing it to one side. Now you can at least see the back of the headlight. But I still couldn't figure out how to get the bulb out :angry: just didn't seem to be room.

TO BE CONTINUED :violin:233937233936233938

[timg]

Ooops :facepalm: Pic3 looks like the clip holding the bulb has sprung out of its holder/hinge/retainer thing. I had major issues getting it back together and still don't know how it happened to 'pop' back into where it belonged. I assume you have disconnected the plug at the back of the bulb? It should be free as it is the spring clip that holds it in. Or maybe my memory is failing me :shutup:

[CRM]

Ooops :facepalm: Pic3 looks like the clip holding the bulb has sprung out of its holder/hinge/retainer thing. I had major issues getting it back together and still don't know how it happened to 'pop' back into where it belonged. I assume you have disconnected the plug at the back of the bulb? It should be free as it is the spring clip that holds it in. Or maybe my memory is failing me :shutup:

I ended up taking the fairing right off because I still couldn't see how it worked at that point. I'll put the rest of the story and pics up soon. Plot spoiler is that when I got it all together with the new bulb low beam still not working :angry:. So it's something else that I haven't figured out yet:crazy:

[barrie]

You can buy ABS glue from palstic pipe suppliers. Try plastic systems in Auckland or Capital valves in wellington.ABS pipes are widely used in the water industry.Cheers



Engine Bars. Get Engine Bars. They're not very heavy.



I've got a few cracks I need to tend to so am about to start frigging around with plastic repairs. The fairings are likely ABS (black under the paint) and while you can get abs "welding" rods to use in a plastic welder, a lot of guys use acetone or plastic model glue (you know the sh*t that melts plastic).

The idea with the acetone is to liquefy ABS offcuts in it to make a runny goo of ABS and use it to backfill a crack or reinforce a crack on the rear side of the fairings. sand yer paint off and prep the area first, spread the gunk in, the acetone evaporates out of the mixture over a few days and the whole lot is bonded...not stuck together, but bonded structurally.

Oops, gotta go, the kids are outside squirting acetone at each other...

[CRM]

Okay back to the light bulb story. I ended up removing all the fairing because I couldn't figure out how to get the bulb out. But it's actually easy now that I've done it a couple of times (because they gave me the wrong bulb twice from different shops :nono: - I know I should have checked :baby:)

Anyway once you have removed the screen, the shroud around the instrument panel and taken out the four bolts holding the instrument panel (see previous post) you can now see the back of the headlight.

Three easy steps:

Pull off the rubber-covered plug from the back of the bulb.
Pull off the circular rubber cover
unclip the metal spring clip from the right side and swing open
Draw out the bulb

Well four actually :cool:

See the pics below. Once you have it in reverse the above.
If you break any of the little black clips (and you probably will) you can get very good replacements at Super Cheap Auto called Scrivet Clips. Not exactly super-cheap but do the job nicely (about $3.80 for pack of 2).

[CRM]

At last I'm taking the TA for a decent ride - down the East Coast from Whangarei to Wellington. It is mostly on seal unfortunately as my daughter is with me on her ZZR400 so can't get too adventurous :shutup:.

We did East Cape yesterday in the rain and that was fairly close to an adventure ride in places. The TA just loves those kind of conditions - rough, holes, mud, gravel - awesome :yes: I did find out the rubber pegs are scary when you do water crossings :blink:. I have some serrated ones at home so they'll be going on when I get back.

Handling in the wet on the seal is okay but I take it very easy with the T63's that are on it. But today from Gizzy to Palmerston Nth in the dry they were fun :woohoo: I love the handling of the TA in the dry - very confident through the corners and if you do hit hole or some gravel or a rut there's just no drama - not like a sports bike. The T63's will probably be bald by the time I get home (or before) so maybe I'll go for some Anakee 2's or similar.

Good times :yes:!

[Transalper]

Very nice, got no rear shock in mine at this moment.

Have you checked to see if your pegs have a removable rubber top which may be hiding serrated pegs below.
This is often the case, not sure about your model but would be suprised if they didn't have a removable rubber.
The pegs you are likely to put on yourself will likely be bigger than the stock ones though.

Cheers
TA.

[CRM]

Very nice, got no rear shock in mine at this moment.

Have you checked to see if your pegs have a removable rubber top which may be hiding serrated pegs below.
This is often the case, not sure about your model but would be suprised if they didn't have a removable rubber.
The pegs you are likely to put on yourself will likely be bigger than the stock ones though.

Cheers
TA.

The guy I bought it off had got some serrated pegs for it - not sure what off - but I'll put them on when I get back. I think they are a bit wider than the stock ones.

A few shots from the trip:

[DR650gary]

Good riding with mates, Great riding with family :yes:

Do you find those tyres give a bit road noise around the 100 k mark?

Cheers

[CRM]

Good riding with mates, Great riding with family :yes:

Do you find those tyres give a bit road noise around the 100 k mark?

Cheers

Yeah it was a good ride. Serious winds coming up from Welly on Tuesday morning :shit:. Yesterday came up from Taumarunui to home and it was a bit better day.

The T63's are a bit noisy - like when you ride over a rumble edge you don't notice any difference :facepalm:. They seem noisier to me around 60k though and not so bad faster. I've nearly worn the back one out so sondering what to replace with. The thing is that in the dry they are fantastic on seal - and they aren't too expensive. So I'm tempted to go for another set even though I've only done about 5km of gravel since I've had the bike. Hoping that will change though and I can do some proper adventure rides. :woohoo:

[Skinny_Birdman]

Phew, looking at that access to the headlight is like some kind of motorcycling Shangri-La!
As I was confined to base over easter I decided to do an 18,000km service on D's Alp. Not too many dramas, except in trying to get the cover off the nut on the end of the crankshaft. Gave up in the end, and set the valves by getting D to watch for the timing marks while I rotated the rear wheel. The rocker adjustments are a bit of an arse to get at, but probably no worse than a lot of v-twins.
I also decided to get K & N air filters for both bikes. For anyone who is unfamiliar with the 650 'Alp, unlike the 600 'which has the air filter under the seat where god intended, the 650 has it under the tank. To get at it you have to remove (deep breath):
Crash bars, cockpit trim, main fairings, internal fairings, rear fairings, tank, crash bars and finally airbox lid.
Not something I want to do too often. So I went to Repco, who basically seemed uninterested in getting in a bike filter (the spotty teenager I dealt with had an attitude like the woman in Little Britain - "Compu'er says no"). After trying a couple of other places I thought "bugger it, I'll take my dollars elsewhere and buy it from the net". So anyway, ordered on 5 May from Performance Filters in the UK, and here I am on 22 May, still waiting for my filter to arrive by DHL 3 day delivery.....

One positive about having the bike in bits (apart from the fact that its not mine) is that I had a chance to play with the centre stand. It will clear the bolt for the crash bars, by a whisker. So no mods required there.

I also shouted my 'Alp some hot grips and a set of Zeta armoured handguards. Zang!

[timg]

To get at it you have to remove (deep breath):
Crash bars, cockpit trim, main fairings, internal fairings, rear fairings, tank, crash bars and finally airbox lid. Not something I want to do too often. You made a 15 minute job into a ..... :facepalm: Remove the tank bolt and raise the rear of the tank and remove the fuel line and breathers etc. Remove the 4 screws that secure the inner dash panel. Loosen the lower fairing screw thingies so there is a bit of wiggle room, put a bit of cloth or something between the fairings and crash bars so you don't mark the fairings, ease the fairings away from the tank retainers (put some rubber grease on the rubber holders before you reassemble so it's easier next time), have D hold the fairings spread apart (or do what I do and cut a bit of dowel the right length to do the job) so that the locating peg things clear the tank, and lift out the tank, Voila! :yes: Cheers.

[Skinny_Birdman]

Oh, OK cheers for that. Never thought of doing it like that, but I'll give it the old college try. It's this bit:

... ease the fairings away from the tank retainers ... that scares the s*** out of me. I have owned 9 bikes with fairings of some sort, and I have never had so much trouble removing them as with the 650 'Alp.

[CRM]

I found another crack in my right fairing yesterday! :shit: The other repairs seem to be holding up fine though so maybe need to just glue it up. I'd actually like the look of it naked - wouldn't have to be so timid about where I ride it either. It would just need a different headlight and a bit of tidying up around the front. Here is my bike and a photo of one someone else has done. Doesn't seem to be a lot out there that have been done this way. 239999240000240001

I was in Cycletreads on the Norf Shore today drooling over accessories (and they were having a sale :shutup:). Ended up getting some Oxford heated grips. Also looking at some new bars but they didn't have anything the right bend. With the bark-busters there is such little tolerance between the bars hitting the tank and the screen I have to get pretty much identical to stock bend. They have more pull back than dirt-bike bars and more height than most and they didn't have anything in stock. Anyway it saved me spending more money I can't afford.

I was actually in there looking at tyres. The T63 on the back needs replacing but with what?! Love the T63's but they seem like such a waste when I hardly ever go off the seal - but just knowing I can feels really good.

[timg]

I found another crack in my right fairing yesterday! :shit: The other repairs seem to be holding up fine though so maybe need to just glue it up. I'd actually like the look of it naked - wouldn't have to be so timid about where I ride it either. It would just need a different headlight and a bit of tidying up around the front.

Love the T63's but they seem like such a waste when I hardly ever go off the seal - but just knowing I can feels really good.

Hiya, check out this thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39170 mostly deals with the 600TA but as they have so much in common it might give you some ideas.

Sounds like a Mitas E07 would be the ideal tyre for you. Very capable on seal and good on shingle and dry tracks. Not good on wet clay or mud. 12k km out of my first set and they still had a few thousand km in them. Cheers. T.

[Crim]

Sounds like a Mitas E07 would be the ideal tyre for you. Very capable on seal and good on shingle and dry tracks. Not good on wet clay or mud. 12k km out of my first set and they still had a few thousand km in them. Cheers. T.

+1 - great wearing tyre good on road, shingle, dry mud - don't try and go anywhere wet and muddy though :facepalm:

[CRM]

+1 - great wearing tyre good on road, shingle, dry mud - don't try and go anywhere wet and muddy though :facepalm:

I'll check them out:yes: How much are they? Where do you get them?

[Crim]

I got mine from local shop - these are the importers - in Palmy Norf so may be an option to go direct (cheaper:woohoo:)

http://www.lmsimports.co.nz/products.php?cat=2

I can't remember what I paid - about 3 hundy for both I think 130/18 17 and 90/90 21 split $170 / $130

[cynna]

mitas tyres have all gone up about $30 recently

[CRM]

Went for a proper gravel adventure today :woohoo: - Whangarei to Russell on gravel probably 70% of the way there - then back across the ferry to Paihia and back down SH1 .

So much fun on the Alp - totally what it does best. I think I'll stick with the T63's as they hook up so well in the gravel -even with the back one barely legal. Plus they do a pretty excellent job on the seal for knobblies :shutup:.

[NordieBoy]

don't try and go anywhere wet and muddy though :facepalm:

You could have said that before the QBW ride :facepalm:

[Skinny_Birdman]

Never had any bikes fall in any of our quakes. Thinking about that I'll be keeping the TA on it's side stand except when doing maintenance on changes etc as the side stand is probably more stable.


Two earthquakes, two Transalps over their side stands onto the floor. This time, the one that was on the centrestand stayed upright (last time the other one was in the CBD smashing windows with its bars). So I'm thinking I need a centrestand for my 'Alp. How did you get on this time TA?

[Crim]

KLR was on her sidestand - no problems (one of the only times you like the weight - I think it is about 362kg :killingme)

[Transalper]

Sidestand last time and all ok.
TA was on the big as jack waiting for it's Shock which Linton still has (I said there was no hurry :Oops:) all ok again.
I posted in another thread about the angle we are parking vs the direction the ground is moving... I have my bikes facing North and South so I think they try to roll but are all butted up against each other so can't. Janets DR sits facing west and highsided again same as in February.
I suggested to her to get some anchor points in and grab some straps. That would be more of a hassle for you using your bikes almost every day.

[thepom]

Whats the prob with the shock,I was going to get the africa overhauled but he wants 400 bucks minimum so I,m trying to sell it with the duff shock,

[Transalper]

Whats the prob with the shock,I was going to get the africa overhauled but he wants 400 bucks minimum so I,m trying to sell it with the duff shock,
It was weeping. Barely noticable but he had serviced it recently so depending upon why it's doing it it may be a warrantee kind of thing.
Whatsastoner has a spare Africa shock you may be able to do a deal? I imagine it's worth a similar price though... if it fits (different model Africa)

[thepom]

Yeah his is a 650 so dont know if they are the same,:weep:

[Skinny_Birdman]

It was weeping. Poor thing, I don't blame it.

[CRM]

Having a "fix the tranny for Spring" day :woohoo:.

Changed the oil and filter :yes:
Check the air cleaner :angry: (Massive Job)
Realise it isn't servicable and should replace :facepalm:
Do some research in the interwebs and find K & N's are the biz :innocent:
Email Whites who are NZ agents :bye:
Wait :violin:
Wish I'd wiped my hands a bit better before I started typing on my beautiful Mac bluetooth keyboard :shutup:
While I "wait" I have my heated grips to install...:blink:

[timg]

Having a "fix the tranny for Spring" day :woohoo:.

Changed the oil and filter :yes:
Check the air cleaner :angry: (Massive Job)
Realise it isn't servicable and should replace :facepalm:
Do some research in the interwebs and find K & N's are the biz :innocent:
Email Whites who are NZ agents :bye:
Wait :violin:
Wish I'd wiped my hands a bit better before I started typing on my beautiful Mac bluetooth keyboard :shutup:
While I "wait" I have my heated grips to install...:blink:

You don't have to strip the fairings etc as the book tels you. See this post http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/132946-Transalp-project?p=1130068570#post1130068570 If your aircleaner is in good nic you can blow it out from the underside with compressed air. Should last between major services. The genuine Honda item is around $100 :shit: The K & N is not recommended if you are using your bike in dusty conditions, like shingle roads for instance. Fine for seal use tho. Search the www - there's a how to do somewhere to convert the paper filter to a reuseable oiled foam filter. Cheers, T.

[CRM]

You don't have to strip the fairings etc as the book tels you. See this post http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/132946-Transalp-project?p=1130068570#post1130068570 If your aircleaner is in good nic you can blow it out from the underside with compressed air. Should last between major services. The genuine Honda item is around $100 :shit: The K & N is not recommended if you are using your bike in dusty conditions, like shingle roads for instance. Fine for seal use tho. Search the www - there's a how to do somewhere to convert the paper filter to a reuseable oiled foam filter. Cheers, T.

Yeah Tim I tried the method of opening up the fairing without taking off but I couldn't get one of the plugs out of the tank - there is a crack in my fairing and I was concerned if I put too much pressure on it then it might get worse. I didn't have to take it right off just took off the screen and instrument surround and the bolts on the front and slid the whole thing forward. Getting the tank off was a bit scary - all the wires and tubes to disconnect - specially as the tank was 3/4 full :facepalm:.

So you are saying the K&N is too open for dusty conditions? Is there any cleanable foam filter for the Transalp that you know of that will keep dust out? My neighbour is a mechanic and tells me that too much compressed air on paper filters can wreck them. Maybe I'll just try the vacuum cleaner on it. It's really not that dirty but I liked the idea of a more free-flowing filter.

Just been reading the Transalp.Org (http://www.transalp.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=377&sid=d399168af126951d498507aad7d8deca) site. Some interesting tips on there.

[CRM]

All done :woohoo:! I decided that the vacuum cleaner treatment would do for now for the air cleaner so that's back in:bye:.
The heated grips were interesting but worked perfectly once I got all the wires routed and taped up so that's another tick :innocent: I haven't glued them on as I am keeping an eye out for some new bars. They are a good tight fit so so should be fine for now.
I put the spare pegs I got with the bike on - all good for river crossings now :2guns:
Just need to get some soft pannier frame things now so I don't toast another set of panniers on the muffler:sick: Eurobike (http://www.eurobike.co.nz/products/40-givi_soft_luggage/643-givi_soft_luggage_hardware.aspx) has them for $115 - sounds an okay deal :blink: Probably should get some engine guards at the same time but can't afford right now.
Then to put the new T63 on the back and all good for a trip around the South Island in August :sunny:

[Skinny_Birdman]

I have just had the interesting experience of getting WoFs at VTNZ. My Tranny breezed through, but D's failed first because its headlight was "too low" (arguably because there was no one sitting on it at the time), and then once I fixed that because the headlight apparently dips the wrong way (at the time I bought it the bike had a brand new WoF from VTNZ in Tauranga, and I haven't touched the headlight).

At this point the benefits of having two identical bikes become apparent. Swap the headlights (1.5 hours worth), get the WoF and make a mental note never to darken their doors again.
My next acquisition will be a new centrestand for mine. I like the genuine Honda article which D's came with, and which appears to be available at quite a reasonable price here (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/XL650V1-TRANSALP-2001/).
Incidentally, replacing the chocka stock air filter on D's with a K & N appears to make quite a difference to its starting and running. I also replaced mine, so I have a fairly new stock air filter (~3000km) in a box in my shed now. If you want one to experiment on, give me a shout CRM.

[CRM]

My next acquisition will be a new centrestand for mine. I like the genuine Honda article which D's came with, and which appears to be available at quite a reasonable price here (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/XL650V1-TRANSALP-2001/).
Incidentally, replacing the chocka stock air filter on D's with a K & N appears to make quite a difference to its starting and running. I also replaced mine, so I have a fairly new stock air filter (~3000km) in a box in my shed now. If you want one to experiment on, give me a shout CRM.

Okay I'll keep that in mind. I like the idea of the better response with the K & N - but not the thought that it lets dust through as people seem to indicate. Have you come across or heard about these DNA filters (http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/370-road/3413-dna_air_filters_for_honda_road.aspx)? Cycletreads do them for the Tranny - expensive though but reusable. Seem to offer high flow but really good filtering.

[CRM]

I'm toying with selling the TA - need the money, plus looking at maybe flying down and picking up something cheaper at the bottom of the South Island and riding it back rather than riding right down and back on the TA. It's a long way from Whangarei when I've only got two weeks to do it and lots of clients to visit. :scooter:So if anyone is interested I'm after $6500. Not listing on TM at this stage. More details over on the trading area (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/140879-Please-don-t-buy-my-Transalp?p=1130126892#post1130126892). PM me if interested.

[Skinny_Birdman]

Boooo!!!!!
Seriously, you'll go a long way to find a comfier bike to pile on the miles with - and I've tried a few. When I bought D's I rode from the Mount to Welly with only a coffee/gas stop, then from the Ferry to Chch with only a gas stop. I've never even considered that on another bike.

[CRM]

Boooo!!!!!
Seriously, you'll go a long way to find a comfier bike to pile on the miles with - and I've tried a few. When I bought D's I rode from the Mount to Welly with only a coffee/gas stop, then from the Ferry to Chch with only a gas stop. I've never even considered that on another bike.

Yeah I totally agree - and if it doesn't sell I'll be relieved. If it does I'd seriously look at replacing with this one (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=397602772). Or something like this (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=368468764) for the trip that I could re-sell without too many tears :laugh:. Just need to free up some funds at the moment :confused:.

[Transalper]

Update on good old 'Big Blue' the 600 from me.
Well, finally back on the road, WOF and REG yesterday, a week earlier than planned.

Now having thoughts about the Dusty Butt two day run two up. :weird:
I made the offer to my potential pillion last night and she is interested :stupid: but a bit worried about the length of the days after I told her we'd be setting off around 7:30am or earlier each day and it was dark when we got back to base both days when done this year.
Told her we can skip some bits if time and energy run out, or if she has just had enough. Won't worry me too much as I've done all or in case there is new stuff most of it before.
I'm thinking Mitas E09 or maybe I'd get away with E10 tyres front and rear and maybe I should look at a new clutch before it too. What do you think about the clutch Skinney Birdman? It will probably be ok for quite a while as is under normal conditions but DB1k two up maybe time to do the clutch first?

Also been talking to another friend about the paint and the new train of though is big blue will stay blue but just one blue (the lighter one) all over and get the Transalp, Honda and Rally Touring wording back on it too. Not going to happen this season though.
Tweaked the topbox mount to stop it floating around so much while we had that conversation.
Still have plans to have the seat modded to help stop my pillion sliding forward so easily and get a real bash plate, also thinking some nice alloy bars and the Storm Bark Busters might be nice but for now the focus may be just what's needed to get it DB1k battle ready.

[Skinny_Birdman]

I often hemmed and hawed about the clutch. It always felt a bit 'soft' to me, especially under strain. I priced new genuine Honda plates at ~$400, at which point I applied my normal maxim, "If it ain't completely f***ed, don't fix it".:yes: D and I used to ride it two up quite a bit (around town I quite enjoyed going pillion with D riding:scooter:), and never had a major problem. I'd go out for a ride with J on the pillion say up Dyers Pass or over to Akaroa and see if it does anything untoward. If it doesn't I'd leave it alone. If you do end up doing it, you get the plates, I'll give you a hand to slot them in. Should be a piece of the proverbial.:bash:

[Skinny_Birdman]

I now have the genuine Honda centrestand on mine. Ended up reasonably cheap ($319 landed) and looks (and works) the biz. Final pre DB prerequisite is (maybe) a GPS. And perhaps a decent adv helmet.
We'll have to see though, having thoughts about another TT related holiday:yeah:, which would involve radical spending cuts and a downstream reduction in core services. But no asset sales.

[cynna]

the main charactor in the movie on tv2 tonight (about the mall cop) was riding round on a transalp

[Skinny_Birdman]

TA you might be interested in this (http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=406455769) tard me auction, which includes a 600 Transalp RH fairing. Doesn't one panel on yours has some locating lugs missing?

[Transalper]

My left one isn't so flash.
Looks like it's all or nothing there though, certainly don't want the rest of that rubbish.

[Transalper]

Decided to give it a go but some bike wreaker or second hand bits dealer wanted it more than me.
Glad it wasn't the left panel because I would have been more disappointed then.

[cynna]

message him and see if he will sell it. he just might have wanted something else in the pile - except he knows u want to pay $50 for it now.....

doh just seen u asked him on that auction. have u asked on one of his?

[Transalper]

Maybe if it was the other side but Na, don't want it now, the money can go on bit's I really need.

[Transalper]

New upgrades....
Rear shock mud protection (Acerbis) and new throttle tube installed with Symtec Grip Heaters and Progrip soft touch Rally grips #737.

Ye ha.

Only glitch I see but don't know if it will become a problem is the shock mud guard ends above the centre stand when it's up. That may drop crap on the centre stand but surely no more than would have got there anyway. We'll see.

[thepom]

Whats so good about the new throttle grip? is it not as far to twist as a normal one?

[Transalper]

Old throttle tube was just worn out so needed replacing.
I did not change the speed of the twist and wouldn't for Adventuring as a quick throttle makes it harder to be smooth unless it's real fancy with a variable pull that is only quick after half way, but stuff like that may or may not fit in the housing.
The old Daytona hotgrip was also old and smooth thus hard to hang on to.
It's glue had mostly let go too so changed to the under grip heaters and put some nice grippy grips on.

[CRM]

Just looking at my wish-list from the beginning of the year when I bought the Tranny - the only thing I haven't done is added an after-market pipe, centre-stand and crash-bars (well that's quite a few things I guess) :shutup:. Got new bars, soft pannier racks, hot grips, serrated pegs etc. Put a new T63 on the back today and heading off for Wellington over Labour Weekend, hoping to do Waikaremoana as part of the trip.So here she is:
248855 248859
May never be this pretty again: 248858 :shifty:248857 :Punk:248856 :love: Oh, and I've done very little actual adventure riding on it :facepalm:.

I am however pining for a change - the call of advancing years :shit: toward a big tourer. So if anyone wants to buy my beloved make me an offer - or if you have a GSX1200 or 1400, ST1100, R850R, R1100R (or RT ), XJR12 or 1300, TDM850, FJR1300, XJ900 or Trophy of equal or lesser value and you would like to do a deal please let me know. :corn: - I'd like $7k for her but open to offers.

[CRM]

Trade Me (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=416606157) listing :done:

[Transalper]

... Got new bars, ...

They look quite good from the photo, which model are they. Renthal... what?

[CRM]

They look quite good from the photo, which model are they. Renthal... what?

They are Renthal Suzuki Quad bars (the invoice from Cycletreads says: (RE-677-01-SI) RENTHAL 7/8 SPECIAL ATV). Almost a perfect match. I had to get as close as possible to the original bend as there is very little room for variation as they just clear the tank and just clear the (taller) screen by about 5mm either way. I'm very pleased with how they work and feel.

[Transalper]

Thanks, might have a look see if they also suit the 600TA.
Been thinking I'd like new bars on that too.

[Skinny_Birdman]

Thanks, might have a look see if they also suit the 600TA.
Been thinking I'd like new bars on that too.

Mmmm, me too. 'Ow much did the invoice say?

[Transalper]

Mmmm, me too. 'Ow much did the invoice say?

Looks like they be RRP $149 at Cycletreads (http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/554-atv_handlebars_grips_heated_gr/4424-renthal_78_atv_handlebars_stan.aspx) so should be able to get them for that here.

One advantage of staying with 7/8 Bars instead of going Taper is we will not need to get the extra fitting kit for fat bars.

[CRM]

Mmmm, me too. 'Ow much did the invoice say?

They were having a special - I got them for $104 plus shipping :Punk:.

They're having a big sale this weekend (http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/default.aspx) so you could probably twist their arm to do the same deal.

[Skinny_Birdman]

So, do you have any news for us on a recent Tardme purchase Carl142, if that is your real name TA? Closed before I even had a chance to look at it.:wari:

[Transalper]

Mmmmm, it came to my inbox while I was sitting in front of it and I went all panicky....side panels, two of them, with a 'buy now'... click link, sign in, 'buy now', then read it properly... new ones, even better.
Wasn't going to post until I have them here, but yes, it was me.
Won't be wearing them on the DB though. Will save them for after that.

[Skinny_Birdman]

I can confirm from painful experience (not my own) that even in quite a solid prang the side panels are protected by the crash bars. But I'd leave them off too. When is someone going to sell a silver LHS 650 panel for $1 no reserve?

[Skinny_Birdman]

OK so I whipped off my CS sprocket today, and:
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac261/wollington/Transalp/IMG_1508.jpg
Nurse, the screens!! Interesting to note that this bike has only done 34,000km, and that the sprocket it was running was the genuine article, ie with rubber dampers both sides.

So out with the:
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac261/wollington/Transalp/IMG_1510.jpg
and we'll see how it goes. TA, I have HEAPS of this stuff spare, once I have done D's Tranny (or even before if you are desperate) you are welcome to use it. I'll text you about the chain.
I took the opportunity to replace the oil filter, which was last replaced in a major service by the previous owner, done at a Honda dealer. IMHO, this:
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac261/wollington/Transalp/IMG_1511.jpg
is a filter that was put on WAY too tight.

[Transalper]

That shaft looks very much the same as the one on my old Tranny, though mine could be slightly worse.

I got me a filter tool now just because it was there in front of me at Pit Lane when I bought my last filter, probably didn't need it as a rubber glove works quite well unless they are over done.

[Skinny_Birdman]

Well, the Loctite 680 has stood up to 950km of riding over the weekend, including 2x Haka, 2x Danseys and 1x Mackenzie passes, and the CS sprocket is still nice and firmly attached to the CS. That's all the evidence I need, I'm going to do D's the same way. Once I'm done, the 680 is all yours TA.

[Transalper]

Excellent, looking forward to trying it on mine.

[CRM]

I rode the Transalp from Whangarei to Wellington today to drop off for the new owner to collect. It reminded me what a good fine-weather touring bike the Transalps are. I left at 7:15 and arrived at Hataitai 11 hours and 817km later. I had a few stops and it was fine almost all of the way - except for a few showers through National Park and Reatahi areas it was just the best day to be doing a long ride. :rolleyes:

I thought I would share a few refections on owning a Transalp. I owned for 11 months, from 44,000km to 53,000k. I sold it for $6000 which is what I paid for it - so they hold their value well. I did add a few things (rack, new bars and hot grips and a new tyre). I changed the oil and filter and a new rear brake rotor and headlight bulb. Apart from only minor stuff.

Positives:
Fuel consumption today was 3.8 litres per 100km - or 62 mpg. I've always thought it was a little hungry but that actually seems pretty good - I wasn't taking it easy but I wasn't pushing it hard either - just a good fun pace :eek:.
They really are very comfortable - I wasn't any more tired or sore than if I'd spent all day in my office chair working on my computer - a little cramped from one position but that's all.
Great reliable engine - no issues at all, always starts, never overheats, never uses oil or water.
Good handling in all conditions apart from rain (due to having T63 tyres) - not that I've ever had any scares - I just slow down in the rain. Great in gravel or dry clay - never tried in mud or grass but with the T63's it would have been fine. Handles like a big Honda trailbike - predicable, no surprises, limited suspension and power but perfect for most real-world situations - loves back-roads and choppy corners.

Negatives:
Hard to work on - that stupid fairing needs to be removed for even basic tasks like changing spark plugs or light bulbs. Every time you break a few of the plastic screws or drop the screen mounts down inside the fairing :nono: You also have to take the tank off to get at the air cleaner :brick:. And it's awkward as you have all these rubber tubes to hook back up.
A bit tall (for me) - one of the reasons I've sold it along with the fact that I want more protection from the elements that a dedicated tourer gives.
Scott oiler. i just haven't been able to get this right - it's either off or dumps all the oil in the first half hour. It must be set up wrong. Oil stains all over the carport and need to be real careful where I park it :angry2:. Not the problem with the bike - but just something that I never figured out how to get right.
Battery hard to get at - under the side cover.
Styling - the fairing style needs to be a bit more masculine IMHO:headbang:. it looks quite good with the fairing off. I'm sure they could have done something that looked better and was easier to remove or get through. Everything else on the bike looks good but the fairing (and maybe the pipe).

Overall - a good bike that could have been great. I don't think that the 700 has improved on any of these areas - I suspect the off-road handing is worse with the extra weight and smaller from wheel. I haven't ridden one. I know the wee-strom is much worse handling in gravel with its smaller and wider front wheel - I didn't enjoy that in gravel at all - much more of a road bike in my view.

So that's it from me - enjoy your Transalps everyone. :banana:

(by the way I have a Haynes manual, some serrated pegs and some givi soft pannier racks for 650 TA if anyone is interested - give me a pm for a good deal)

[CRM]

Fuel consumption today was 3.8 litres per 100km - or 62 mpg. I've always thought it was a little hungry but that actually seems pretty good

Actually that's wrong - I must have been tireder than I thought cause my maths went sideways zzzz: - it was 5.5 litres per 100km which is 48.7mpg - which as I thought is a negative with the bike - about the same as my VFR800 was! It may be a least partly due to the tyres - quite a bit of resistance with the T63's compared to a more road-biased tyre. I was running 32 in the rear and 30 in the front.

[Skinny_Birdman]

I'd agree with all of that. Funny you should say that the 700 doesn't appear to have improved any of the weaknesses, because most of the negatives you raised are things that were better on the 600 viz:
Fairing - was simpler to remove, and you could leave it on for many maintenance tasks.
Off Road Handling - was better on the 600
Styling - 600 looks more workmanlike, less like a road bike IMHO

5.5l per 100km is around about what I get on mine, D's is a bit worse, hopefully due to the 16T front sprocket which is now history.
PM sent about pegs.
Pulled CS sprocket off D's last night - splines were virtually unworn. I have come to expect these kinds of things even though hers still has higher kms. Nature vs nurture, it is easy to tell when a bike has been looked after. Notwithstanding that I consigned the horrible 16T CS sprocket to the spares bin and 680'd the new 15T JT's jobby on. If anyone wants a 16T sprocket PM me - free to good home and only about 5000km old. Don't know why you'd want it though.

[Transalper]

Sad to hear how you didn't meld with the 650 Transalp as much as we would like to have thought you would CRM.


Oh well, back to what's new with old bikes....
I've had some work done on the 600 over the weekend.
I had my centre stand lowered by about 20mm and it's silly little foot leaver doubled in length and am now happy to report I can get the Transalp up on the stand without assistance now. May be a different story with luggage on but that can be removed in a pinch.

Also had a nut welded to the sidestand/kickstand (what ever you want to call it) to catch my boot when I'm trying to put the sidestand down as it was almost impossible unless I put my boot right back to the foot of the stand and pushed it down from there. It was just too polished and slippery.
The big square plate that was the sidestand's (aftermarket) foot now has rounded edges too.

Then we raised my front fender by about 15mm.

And finally I have attempted to loctite680 my front sprocket in place.
This weekend I hope to discover whether my Loctite attempt which was a bit messy will be ok or need a do over.

[Transalper]

Well only put 174.7 miles = 281.1 km on the Transalp this weekend, some gravel, some Summit Rd and Bays stuff.
Sprocket looks good with the Loctite so I'm hopeful it will last the distance. Will check again in several 1000ks or 1000miles. :rockon:

[CRM]

Anybody interested in some Givi soft pannier racks for 650 TA? As new condition with all the hardware - new owner didn't need.

They work real well saving your panniers from toasting :bash:. Cost $121 - $75 anyone (including postage)?

Picture shows them with floppy indicators off a 600 tranny - they worked better with the proper original 650 indicators which are more rigid and don't touch the rack.

[warewolf]

5.5 litres per 100kmFor road use that does sound a tad high. I'd be thoroughly checking the needle jet (aka emulsion tube) and needle for wear. As these parts wear the carb runs richer and richer and the fuel economy steadily deteriorates. Not needing to use much choke in winter is a classic indicator of this richness.

Interesting choice of new bike. I got rid of the TDM850 because it was too tall and left the rider too exposed to the elements, despite being very comfortable and had gem of an engine and chassis. Went to a Triumph Trophy for the outright comfort and weather protection. However the Tiger 900 (added to the stable later) was just as comfortable and in many ways a much better street bike - but at the time the TDM had scared me off that class of bike.

[Skinny_Birdman]

Yesterday a nicely packed pair of serrated footpegs arrived on my doorstep courtesy of Mr CRM:2thumbsup. They should be just the thing for the greasy bits on the Dunstan Trail. The stock jobs look pretty feeble by comparison!

[CRM]

Yesterday a nicely packed pair of serrated footpegs arrived on my doorstep courtesy of Mr CRM:2thumbsup. They should be just the thing for the greasy bits on the Dunstan Trail. The stock jobs look pretty feeble by comparison!

Turns a Transalp into a Mudbug - enjoy :woohoo:

[NordieBoy]

Turns a Transalp into a Mudbug - enjoy :woohoo:

Two stroke single with a rack for carrying sheep?

[CRM]

Two stroke single with a rack for carrying sheep?

Well not exactly the same but capable of doing the same stuff i reckon :shit:

[Transalper]

..
I've had some work done on the 600 over the weekend....
Then we raised my front fender by about 15mm.....

Well, I really liked the look and the idea of the slightly raised front fender but in Mailing Pass yesterday some of the big fork compression moments had a nasty plasticy hitting stuff sound.. we knew we were making things tight but were fairly sure we had just enough clearance still.
The fender was hitting the end of the u-bolts that hole the crash bars on and folding the back of the fender down/forward a bit which resulted in a split fender down one side.
Have drilled and zip tied the fender split and remounted back to original height. Will fix it properly after the Dusty Butt.