TTR250- First ride review

[888]

Picked up a mint condition TTR250- 5900k's. First "adventure" ride on the Pirongia West Road out to Oparau, loose gravel, downhill, sharp corners.
-Sprocket set up of 13/44 is fantastic on tarmac, 140k acheived with no worries. 13/44 was absolutely perfect for my panicked style of off road riding on the gravel.
-Front Brake needs to be upgraded with a braided steel HEL, I had it on as hard as I could while I was desperately trying to make corners (failed only once, lucky there was no cliff) and there really wasn't enough feel
-Rear Brake was fine, only time I locked up the back (actually multiple times) was when I was panic downshifting coming way too fast into tight corners. Almost came off about six times.
Tires- new Pirelli MT90 Scorpion was awesome on the gravel, kicked out a bit when caning it but gave great grip. Front Dunlop 606 (well broken in with 5900k's) did great on the road and tracked true on the gravel.
Rear View Mirrors- Excellent view.
Cons- Clutch lever too high, had to lift my foot off to downshift- should be easy to adjust??? (any advice appreciated!!) Removed the stupid strap on the seat and asides from the front brake, that is all the negatives I've got! I will open her up and rejet in the near future. I took the back road out to Raglan (from Kawhia) today and was able to really nail it on the hard pack. Have not adjusted suspension yet. I'm lovin' this bike!

[cooneyr]

....
Cons- Clutch lever too high, had to lift my foot off to downshift- should be easy to adjust??? (any advice appreciated!!) Removed the stupid strap on the seat and asides from the front brake, ....

Whats ya doing with your foot on the clutch lever. Awkward riding position :facepalm: Oh you mean the gear shift lever. Generally these are on a splined shaft. Loosen and remove the bolt (shifter won't come off unless you remove the bolt) then pull off shifter, rotate down one spline and re attach.

The strap over the seat might be a pain on the road but if it is a good strong one they can be a god send when off road and stuck. Good for yanking back of bike out of holes etc.

Cheers R

[Transalper]

I imagine the reason the gear shifter is so high is previous owner had a good solid pair of boots so needed it high to be able to hook the toe under for the upshift.
Both my bikes are the same, leaver is so high I lift my foot off to down shift but it's just high enough to get my toe under with my good boots on.

[dino3310]

bugga my legs in a moon boot, i would be keen for some rides:facepalm:

levers be hand or foot are all adjustable, as cooneyR said and the clutch lever you can loosen on bar and rotate it slightly down.
You sure the front brake dont just need a bleed/clean, i never use them going into corners on the metal if im going in to hot i lock up the back get it sliding start turning then opening up the throttle and power slide around... well thats what i try to do :laugh:

[dino3310]

OI wheres the photo's:corn:

[NordieBoy]

I run my foot levers very high.
Out of the road of accidental usage.

[888]

Photo to come- any suggestions on how to adjust front forks? There are two valves but I'm not sure if a mechanic needs to adjust. While the rear end felt great, I'm now thinking that the front shocks felt a bit stiff while going across ruts.

[dino3310]

Photo to come- any suggestions on how to adjust front forks? There are two valves but I'm not sure if a mechanic needs to adjust. While the rear end felt great, I'm now thinking that the front shocks felt a bit stiff while going across ruts.

hey mate if you dont know shocks dont touch em, get some one who knows what there doing do it.
to wrong a setting could impeed performance and SAFETY.

[888]

Thanks for that advice- I won't mess with 'em! I've adjusted the gear shifting lever and the difference is awesome. I can now shift down without lifting up my foot, this will give me the crucial extra few milli-seconds to respond to corners.

[JATZ]

Photo to come- any suggestions on how to adjust front forks? There are two valves but I'm not sure if a mechanic needs to adjust. While the rear end felt great, I'm now thinking that the front shocks felt a bit stiff while going across ruts.

Oooo go on... have a fiddle :yes:

You know you want to :devil2:

[Skinny_Birdman]

Interesting stuff. I had a great run out of my TTR 250, my advice if you are going to go to the trouble to re-jet it, ditch the horrid heavy muffler, or at the very least remove the header restrictor. DON'T remove the restrictor unless you are about to rejet, as the previous owner of mine did. Took an afternoon on the dyno to fix it.
Surprised on your comments re the brakes. I abused the mortal s*** out of my brakes, and never ran out. Have they been bled recently?

Photo to come- any suggestions on how to adjust front forks? There are two valves but I'm not sure if a mechanic needs to adjust. While the rear end felt great, I'm now thinking that the front shocks felt a bit stiff while going across ruts.

If we are talking about the Schrader (tyre) valves in the tops of the forks, I was told (by Linton at DAS, reputed by some to be a suspension guru) just to pop the pressure out of the valves every so often, as they are some kind of atmospheric compensation. No adjustment possible, without modifying things or changing to heavier oil etc.
I found this website (http://www.ttr250.com/) quite handy.
The other thing I'd watch out for if it has the long rear mudguard is that it tends to rattle loose. I used loc-tite for a while, then gave up and drilled out the captive nuts on either side and replaced them with nylocks.
Have fun, they are a great wee bike.

[dino3310]

If we are talking about the Schrader (tyre) valves in the tops of the forks, I was told (by Linton at DAS, reputed by some to be a suspension guru) just to pop the pressure out of the valves every so often, as they are some kind of atmospheric compensation. Have fun, they are a great wee bike.

aw those valves same as my XR, i bleed em every now and then as my manual sez 0 psi

[888]

good advice on the rear mudguard, as far as bleeding the front forks: do you mean letting all the air out? Or is there a measured psi that should be maintained? By the way, I just came back from a great ride on a west coast farm north of Mokau- only dumped the bike once while stupidly using the rear brake going downhill on a steep paddock. That'll teach me!

[dino3310]

yip air out, your manual will state air pressure if any mine sez 0.
sometimes falling of is part of the fun:eek:

[888]

Yes, my work mates were in the ute behind me and I have rarely seen the boys laugh so hard. Another question- 22 rear and 18 front psi is what the sticker on the bike recommends-whaddya reckon the best psi for (dry & wet) gravel? While the Pirelli Scorpion is on the rear I'm staying away from any mud...

[dino3310]

i dont bother with dropping psi to suit conditions anymore, i just keep the pressures recommended on the Tyre itself.
different tyres will perform better than others at different pressures, you will have to find what works best for you and the tyre on at the time. everybodys got there own preferences.

i use to run 18 rear and 22 front offroad with mx tyres but now just cant be bothered mucking round with pressures, i dont ride hard enough to find traction limits if i do then i slow down

[NordieBoy]

Off road biased - 20f/18r
Road biased - 24f/26r

[888]

What size bike are those psi recommendations for? I'm assuming it's a bit bigger than my TTR250. Next step is replacing the Scorpion MT90 with a Dunlop 606, I had to take it a bit easy going up the steep dry dirt tracks as the rear was starting to lose it when throttle was applied. I would have never made it out had it been wet, that papa clay is a challenge when wet.

[NordieBoy]

Pretty much generic.
I don't go below 18psi to avoid spinning the tyre on the rim and pinch flats.

Do you have rimlocks?

The higher the pressure the more the ride quality depends on the suspension being up to it.

[888]

I've got rimlocks on the rear, and will add one to the front (with hd tubes). And I've been running 18 up front and 18 in the back, seems to work well on the road as well- but I will get a small hand pump and add 5-6psi on the rides back home.

[NordieBoy]

I've got rimlocks on the rear, and will add one to the front (with hd tubes). And I've been running 18 up front and 18 in the back, seems to work well on the road as well- but I will get a small hand pump and add 5-6psi on the rides back home.

I wouldn't bother with a front rim lock if you're going to stay >=18psi.

Some tyres are just picky with pressures. The MT21 rear I ran bounced off rocks until 18psi whereas the Mitas E07 rear was happy up to 26psi or so.

[888]

Now I've just got to get my act together and learn how to fix a flat while out in the field. I've seen some amazing youtube videos of guys changing them in about 2-3 minutes.....so it can't be that hard.....:apumpin:

[dino3310]

I've seen some amazing youtube videos of guys changing them in about 2-3 minutes.....so it can't be that hard.....:apumpin:

:lol: good luck with that

[888]

http://www.mxguy.com/motorcycle-maintenance/the-best-how-to-change-motorcycle-tire-video_05-31-2008/

Check this video out- fantastic skills, he makes it look dead easy.

[dino3310]

http://www.mxguy.com/motorcycle-maintenance/the-best-how-to-change-motorcycle-tire-video_05-31-2008/

Check this video out- fantastic skills, he makes it look dead easy.

it is that easy in with all the gear,stand and of course MX tyres. i can change my MX tyres in 15-20 mins on the garage floor but with the stiffer DOT rated ones espeically when there new im looking at least 45 mins.

have a practice at home get the tube out and put it back in, youl get faster and practice makes perfect.... i like watching the enduro boys like in the I.S.D.E amazing how fast they can change there tyre in crap conditions.

[NordieBoy]

The secret is to practice on the front tyres only.
You'll feel like a tyre changing god :niceone:

[zeRax]

personally i think tyre sizes count for alot of it, i had a skinny tyre on the 125 at a point, and even thou it was a new tyre ( of course we have all ridden on plenty of brand new tyres ) it was like ice, ,

ever slid a 125 out sideways around a corner without trying ? ( edit, let alone on a straight, and at 24 odd psi )

i just put a new MT43 road legal trials tyre on yesterday and , it is a stiff beast in the sidewall (compared to previous knobbly like 606 and mt21'st etc ) , im sure i could run that bugger flat with out too much hassle

what i mean is tyre width, tread pattern etc, best to think about your contact patch and what pressure is doing to it imo, everything is horses for courses and you gotta suss out what feels best for your tyre and the way you ride, and also what feedback from the road u feel comfortable with

ive been getting down to around 12-16 psi off road without problems, but i have also thrown knobs off on road at 15 odd psi, but the only thing i have gone up past 22 on on the road was dr650 and purely thinking about longevity of tyres,

( edit , think not only about all this stuff above, but its about asking a bike with X torque to move X mass with X contact ) whast ur asking the tyre and connected to bike and surface moving your bike and your mass




fuck it this post is worthless anyhoo! ;D

[888]

I just picked up the hd tubes- damn! they are heavy! While I don't have a normal set of tubes to compare with, I'm thinking that these tubes might have some effect on street riding, am I right?

[NordieBoy]

I just picked up the hd tubes- damn! they are heavy! While I don't have a normal set of tubes to compare with, I'm thinking that these tubes might have some effect on street riding, am I right?

Yes. People will point and laugh.

[Padmei]

Yes. People will point and laugh.

Only if slung across shoulders vintage TT style

[888]

Hah! Looks like they're going on. Having a tough time finding either a Dunlop 606, or the Mich T63 (rear tire). Not too keen on the Kenda's, are there any other tire importers out there who might stock the 606 or T63?

[dino3310]

T63 http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/304-michelin_trail/1102-michelin_t63.aspx

E-09 - E-07 http://www.lmsimports.co.nz/products.php?cat=2
D606 http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/331-dunlop_off_road/3172-dunlop_d606_enduro.aspx

[dino3310]

or these if you want more off the seal grip, i use these on the front:niceone: the rears dont last long on the XR http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/243-michelin_off_road/1634-michelin_ac10.aspx

[Skinny_Birdman]

Only if slung across shoulders vintage TT style

I got a few strange looks riding around Christchurch on the blue 'Alp on Friday with an MT80 and a Metzeler Tourance around my waist. I hate not having a car....
I don't reckon having HD tubes in the TT made much of a difference, except when changing tyres. After pinching the front tube with the lever for about the 5th time I went back to regulars.

[cromagnon]

I got a few strange looks riding around Christchurch on the blue 'Alp on Friday with an MT80 and a Metzeler Tourance around my waist. I hate not having a car....
I don't reckon having HD tubes in the TT made much of a difference, except when changing tyres. After pinching the front tube with the lever for about the 5th time I went back to regulars.

Do HD tubes make it easier to pinch the tube when changing a tyre? I was getting HD thinking they would be harder to pinch :facepalm:

[888]

I called LMS and they said the E09 would not fit the TTR- so I'll hit up the cycletreads team. I love the look of the AC10's, but I'm still leaning towards the T63's for the road riding. The current MT90 is a 110/80/18; how much bigger can I go and have it still fit between the swingarms?

[dino3310]

Tyre sizes mmmmm calling warewolf, warewolf to the bat phone...

i think your stock is 4.60-18 which i think is 120/90x18 which is a little wider than the 110. you could try to measure between the swing arm and tyre see how wide you can go. you could try other riders on here to see what there using.
the T63 better for longativity and road use over the AC10
ive had some wide tyres on my pig but off road the skinny 110 gives me the best traction.
some tyre info http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/tire-tyre-guide/Tire-TyreTech.htm

[dino3310]

some info on these threads, post the question on there as there a shit load bigger community on there

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220970&highlight=TTr250&page=3

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=314223&highlight=TTR250

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638827&highlight=TTr250

[888]

The T63 rear is on it's way, I've picked up IRC HD tubes front and rear, rimlock for the front, now all I need is to open up the airbox, improve the filter, modify exhaust, rejet, better bars.....bashplate....list goes on!

[MikeJ]

There is no end to the improvements you can do to this bike, but standard its ok too. The front end is just a bit too soft to get really serious off road unfortunately. You can get stiffer springs but l went the USD route and put RM250 forks on mine plus a bunch of other mods to make it more capable off road. It has the bare minimum to get a WOF.

The trick to installing HD tubes is to inflate the tube so it just holds its shape then put it in the tyre which has been completely removed from the rim. Then put the valve stem into place, put the nut on so it just holds the stem then put the tyre back on as normal. Use plenty of CRC/WD40 to lube the tyre beads. The CRC/WD40 will eventually evaporate/dissolve and end up making the tyre stick to the rim and use one rim lock per wheel. For the back wheel put the stem and rim lock in the holes closest to each other to make getting the tyre on easier. And most importantly.....never use the tyre levers past vertical....that way its impossible to pinch the tube.

[cromagnon]

There is no end to the improvements you can do to this bike, but standard its ok too. The front end is just a bit too soft to get really serious off road unfortunately. You can get stiffer springs but l went the USD route and put RM250 forks on mine plus a bunch of other mods to make it more capable off road. It has the bare minimum to get a WOF.

The trick to installing HD tubes is to inflate the tube so it just holds its shape then put it in the tyre which has been completely removed from the rim. Then put the valve stem into place, put the nut on so it just holds the stem then put the tyre back on as normal. Use plenty of CRC/WD40 to lube the tyre beads. The CRC/WD40 will eventually evaporate/dissolve and end up making the tyre stick to the rim and use one rim lock per wheel. For the back wheel put the stem and rim lock in the holes closest to each other to make getting the tyre on easier. And most importantly.....never use the tyre levers past vertical....that way its impossible to pinch the tube.

Cheers I will try that fitting technique when putting on my new rear tyre tomorrow. I have pinched a couple of tubes previously :facepalm:

[888]

I rode the gravel (shingle, metal, whatever!) road around Mt. Karioi this weekend and it was awesome. Loads of crazed tourists coming the opposite way meant I had to kiss the inside wall on every turn. My shockingly crap riding still meant for a great ride, I've just got to practice the power turn on tight corners. I only slid off the road once. No damage to the bike...