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Dschubba
17th January 2011, 10:20
Just fitted a lowering kit to my wifes Street Triple to give her a bit more confidence with the ground handling.

Replaced the bottom suspension link with an adjustable one from Soupys Performance.

Easy job, took 20 minutes. Used a turfer winch and a rope round rear footpegs to the roof to unload the suspension to get bolts out. Take front bolt out first, then lower bike which will move the rear bolt clear of the exhaust for removal.
Also lowered the front slightly thru the triple clamp.

If the bike is lowered more than an inch, the kickstand may need to be shortened also as it won't let it lean over enough when parked

Cost round NZ$190, not much more than the clutch lever!

Looks like its well made, head out for a ride this arvo and see how she finds it.

cheers



new part installed \/ old part \/

elia
9th June 2011, 19:17
Hi.
That lowering link from Soupy's is brilliant and so easy to use.
Did you have to lower the front? Can the front be lowered? Also, I'm going to have to either buy the adjustable side stand from Soupy's or get a piece cut out and resoldered from the current side stand. Did your wife have an issue with this as well?

DrunkenMistake
9th June 2011, 19:43
not the same bike, But I thought about lowering the front of my bike a little more, but I found that if I went half an inch lower I would be out of clearance with the triple tree, as I have alot of travel in the forks, do you have a similar problem?

Robert Taylor
12th June 2011, 18:45
Just fitted a lowering kit to my wifes Street Triple to give her a bit more confidence with the ground handling.

Replaced the bottom suspension link with an adjustable one from Soupys Performance.

Easy job, took 20 minutes. Used a turfer winch and a rope round rear footpegs to the roof to unload the suspension to get bolts out. Take front bolt out first, then lower bike which will move the rear bolt clear of the exhaust for removal.
Also lowered the front slightly thru the triple clamp.

If the bike is lowered more than an inch, the kickstand may need to be shortened also as it won't let it lean over enough when parked

Cost round NZ$190, not much more than the clutch lever!

Looks like its well made, head out for a ride this arvo and see how she finds it.

cheers



new part installed \/ old part \/

Its a pity youve altered the engagement point of the link ratio and also compromised wheel to underguard clearnce at full closed position. These links are absolutely the wrong way to go about lowering a bike. They are made by companies who care little about the negative side effects, sorry but youve been conned.

Jally Bean
16th November 2011, 12:51
Its a pity youve altered the engagement point of the link ratio and also compromised wheel to underguard clearnce at full closed position. These links are absolutely the wrong way to go about lowering a bike. They are made by companies who care little about the negative side effects, sorry but youve been conned.

So how would you recommend I do it please I'm in the same situation. My dealer recommended lowering the front but I don't think it will end up lowering my seat height any. Thanks.

ckai
16th November 2011, 14:39
So how would you recommend I do it please I'm in the same situation. My dealer recommended lowering the front but I don't think it will end up lowering my seat height any. Thanks.

+1, I'd be interested to know as well. Purely out of interest. Been asked a hell of a lot how my vertically challenged wife can ride my Daytona without it being lowered.

Would be good to know what the "alternatives" are and the cost of the "alternatives". God knows that information like that is ridiculously hard to find (and shouldn't be).

Good "old thread" dig as well ;)

Jally Bean
16th November 2011, 15:04
Would be good to know what the "alternatives" are and the cost of the "alternatives". God knows that information like that is ridiculously hard to find (and shouldn't be).

I just spoke to my dealer again and he said the kit they recommend is the triangular type I found here: http://www.lustracing.co.uk/suspension/triumph-lowering-kits.html

This takes it down by 35mm which would be perfect for me. He recommended buying a shortened side stand too rather than hacking up the one I have in case I ever want to put it bat to original height for resale. (Is Soupy's the only place that does these?) He said about $80 to fit the kit and adjust the front. I just noticed another forum mentioned somehow rotating the side stand forward instead of shortening but it's quite unclear how to do that.

Maha
16th November 2011, 15:18
Ever thought of adding 25mm to the sole of your boots?....:blink:

5150
16th November 2011, 15:25
Ever thought of adding 25mm to the sole of your boots?....:blink:

Set of 6 inch high heels should fix the problem nicely. :msn-wink:

Vgygrwr
16th November 2011, 17:08
I went the way of changing the triangular linkage plates to keep a similar height when fitting a longer shock. Being somewhat of a cheapskate I made some to try then had someone local make up a set. In theory they were designed to keep the rising rate similiar to standard. Confess I thought the bike felt a wee bit better to ride after a changed it back to standard prior to selling.

Sable
16th November 2011, 18:53
In this thread: Small people compensating by riding bikes too big for them. :bleh:

Jally Bean
17th November 2011, 12:09
Ever thought of adding 25mm to the sole of your boots?....:blink:

Would be the easiest option wouldn't it? Just been looking at some great big platform soled boots. But then I would be taller than half the cute guys, and my bike is enough to scare them away as it is.



In this thread: Small people compensating by riding bikes too big for them. :bleh:
You're probably right, I should have picked something in my size :rolleyes:

ckai
17th November 2011, 12:27
Would be the easiest option wouldn't it? Just been looking at some great big platform soled boots. But then I would be taller than half the cute guys, and my bike is enough to scare them away as it is.



You're probably right, I should have picked something in my size :rolleyes:

If your bike scares away cute guys then they'll eventually turn out gay if they aren't already. I've said it before and I'll say it again, there's nothing hotter than a chick on a bike...oh hang on...yeah there is...a chick on a Trumpy :D

Ragingrob
17th November 2011, 12:31
Ever thought of adding 25mm to the sole of your boots?....:blink:

That, or shaving a couple cm off your seat - if ya don't wanna have your actual height changed.

5150
17th November 2011, 12:39
If your bike scares away cute guys then they'll eventually turn out gay if they aren't already. I've said it before and I'll say it again, there's nothing hotter than a chick on a bike...oh hang on...yeah there is...a chick on a Trumpy :D

Don't forget she is wearing a bikini :cool:

bogan
17th November 2011, 13:16
So how would you recommend I do it please I'm in the same situation. My dealer recommended lowering the front but I don't think it will end up lowering my seat height any. Thanks.

I'll have a crack at answering that. The problem with lowering is you have to change the wheel stroke as well as it's lowest position. If you don't you'll bottom the wheel into the guard, or even worse, hard parts. The huckory way of doing that is to change the 'triangle' link, but that will result in faster shock velocities for a given wheel travel, and will make it feel much stiffer. A better way would be to get a new shock, and just change the shaft travel so the suspension tops out a bit earlier. And in either case, the front will then have a disproportionate amount of travel compared to the rear, drop it a bit to maintain the right level will help. those are just my guesses though, RT might be along with a more definitive answer.

How much lower do you need it? If it isn't much a low seat and heel inserts are probably the better options!

Jally Bean
17th November 2011, 13:56
... there's nothing hotter than a chick on a bike...oh hang on...yeah there is...a chick on a Trumpy :D


Don't forget she is wearing a bikini :cool:
Oh you guys are too lovely thanks


I'll have a crack at answering that. The problem with lowering is you have to change the wheel stroke as well as it's lowest position. If you don't you'll bottom the wheel into the guard, or even worse, hard parts. The huckory way of doing that is to change the 'triangle' link, but that will result in faster shock velocities for a given wheel travel, and will make it feel much stiffer. A better way would be to get a new shock, and just change the shaft travel so the suspension tops out a bit earlier. And in either case, the front will then have a disproportionate amount of travel compared to the rear, drop it a bit to maintain the right level will help. those are just my guesses though, RT might be along with a more definitive answer.

How much lower do you need it? If it isn't much a low seat and heel inserts are probably the better options!

Can't say I understood all of that :blank: but I appreciate the detail thanks Bogan. I generally manage on the balls of my feet or landing with one foot mostly flat, but I'm giving myself stress avoiding metal car parks and uneven ground. I had a buddy measure under my heel yesterday and I reckon I would be almost flat foot with the 35mm reduction so I don't think raising my boots or cutting into my seat will do it.

It's not much to spend as long as handling isn't going to be compromised and would probably make me feel a tad more confident parking on uneven camber etc. Seems like the side stand mod is harder than the lowering kit.

5150
17th November 2011, 14:33
Oh you guys are too lovely thanks



Anytime. You welcome :devil2:

HenryDorsetCase
17th November 2011, 14:39
My shock was built shorter but I believe with the same travel. Fairly chunky money but absolutely worth it. Ive also dropped the forks through the yokes by 6mm ( 10mm exposed above top clamp, stock is 4mm).

It made a bit of difference and the reduced ground clearance will not be noticed on a street bike.

kiwifruit
17th November 2011, 15:02
Just slide off to one side or the other, you don't need both feet on the ground.

ckai
17th November 2011, 15:33
Can't say I understood all of that :blank: but I appreciate the detail thanks Bogan. I generally manage on the balls of my feet or landing with one foot mostly flat, but I'm giving myself stress avoiding metal car parks and uneven ground. I had a buddy measure under my heel yesterday and I reckon I would be almost flat foot with the 35mm reduction so I don't think raising my boots or cutting into my seat will do it.

It's not much to spend as long as handling isn't going to be compromised and would probably make me feel a tad more confident parking on uneven camber etc. Seems like the side stand mod is harder than the lowering kit.

After going through all of this with Wifey, I would have to say that if you're only 35mm from being comfortable slightly higher boots and taking a chunk out of the seat will be the best and cheapest option. The problem with the Street compared with the Daytona is the seat is wider which means your legs stick out further when you have them on the ground.

I don't know what the seat of the Street is like but if it has as much foam as the Daytona you can easily get it 20mm lower and it'll still be comfy. It's real daunting thinking of attacking your seat but you can do it without anyone knowing it's been done and is really not hard at all. It just needs to be done in the place where you sit when your feet are down. Not the whole seat. And if you do it neat enough you can put the foam back it. My wife reckons it's heaps more comfortable too. It makes it kinda like an air cushion :)

20mm out of the seat - free
15mm higher soles - maybe $30
Done.

Even if the link drops the rear by only 15mm there's your difference without touching your boots.

I wouldn't go spending money on flashing shocks etc unless it's HEAPS too high. A few people end up taking the links out when they're comfortable with the bike so spending $$$$$ on shocks seems a waste.

After doing my wife's seat (I brought another one), I wouldn't hesitate in doing it to anyone else's or any other bike of mine if needed. In fact, I'm thinking about doing it to my own just in a different place so fits my ass better when I'm at the back of the seat.

Jally Bean
17th November 2011, 19:58
After doing my wife's seat (I brought another one), I wouldn't hesitate in doing it to anyone else's or any other bike of mine if needed.
Shame I'm not local I'd let you have a go at mine while I'm boot shopping with your wife lol - thanks!

FJRider
17th November 2011, 20:18
Oh you guys are too lovely thanks



Can't say I understood all of that :blank: but I appreciate the detail thanks Bogan. I generally manage on the balls of my feet or landing with one foot mostly flat, but I'm giving myself stress avoiding metal car parks and uneven ground. I had a buddy measure under my heel yesterday and I reckon I would be almost flat foot with the 35mm reduction so I don't think raising my boots or cutting into my seat will do it.



Put a 1 centimeter thick board on the ground either side of the bike ... and measure again.


It may supprise you ...

Jally Bean
17th November 2011, 20:43
Put a 1 centimeter thick board on the ground either side of the bike ... and measure again.

It may supprise you ...

LOL yes forgot about Pythagoras, I won't need the full 3.5cm afterall, I'm almost flatfoot with that.
Well spotted:doh: (*blush* I'm supposed to be an engineer ffs)

FJRider
17th November 2011, 21:13
Shame I'm not local I'd let you have a go at mine while I'm boot shopping with your wife lol - thanks!

Thicker sole's on your boots ... maybe ...

Jally Bean
18th November 2011, 06:41
Thicker sole's on your boots ... maybe ...
I've been resisting that in the name of fashion but I'm beginning to think you may be right

ckai
18th November 2011, 13:46
Shame I'm not local I'd let you have a go at mine while I'm boot shopping with your wife lol - thanks!

haha yeah would have been good, apart from the fact I'd be doing all the grunt work while you ladies enjoy yourselves. Oh I do like a good shop LOL

Honestly it's not that scary. The scariest thing is carefully removing the foam from the plastic seat pan. You don't even need to remove the seat cover from the foam if it's glued onto it (mine was).

Fashionably, my wife's white, 1 inch sole Doc Martins look very bad ass :)

FJRider
18th November 2011, 18:22
I've been resisting that in the name of fashion but I'm beginning to think you may be right

Riding boots were never meant to be walked (far) in ... most men will be looking further up. NOT at your boots ... :innocent: ... and probably wont notice.

Jally Bean
18th November 2011, 21:43
Fashionably, my wife's white, 1 inch sole Doc Martins look very bad ass :)
Yum! I do like the sound of those boots!!

Jally Bean
18th November 2011, 21:44
Riding boots were never meant to be walked (far) in ... most men will be looking further up. NOT at your boots ... :innocent: ... and probably wont notice.
LOL SmartyPants yup

Transalper
19th November 2011, 14:52
Would be the easiest option wouldn't it? Just been looking at some great big platform soled boots. But then I would be taller than half the cute guys, and my bike is enough to scare them away as it is.

You made a good first impression when we met on Wednedsay, :love: girl and bike combined.
Wouldn't scare me though whether or not I might be called cute by your standard is probably all in the eye of the beholder.
I wouldn't be able to park the old Transalp next to your bike though until I've restored mine to it's former shiny glory with new paint etc. My DR is a bit dirty too.
However of course being that I'm already partnered up this bit was all very moot.


Now about bike/rider height differences...

I can get you the name of the place that added a second sole to my partners boots, not sure how much it added but she said it helps and you don't notice it visually.
The material they used offers good traction too. Actually just looked at her current boots and now realise she had it done to her previous pair but when she returns (away for the weekend) I can still ask her.

Seats, I have a card for a man named Brendon at Canterbury Upholstery, 027 439 3659.
He has been recommended to me as a man that rides himself and does good work on Motorcycle seats, that's if you want a pro to look at it.
I will be getting my Transalp's seat re sculptured by him next year, though he doesn't know it yet.

Suspension and lowering, Dirt Action Services (http://dasmoto.co.nz/) in Saxon Street are local specialists, they do all bikes, not just dirt. Linton there will overwhelm you with info and as such can make visits there a little longer than they need to be but they also do good work.
Two problems with the lowering links are that they change the handling characteristics of the bike and risk the tyre rubbing the underside of the rear fender arrangement if you go too far. Same with slipping the forks through the clamps, too far and you end up with your front mudguard hitting the triple clamps. Both also shorten the wheelbase (distance between axles) a little.
Having the suspension custom built to be lower with a shorter stroke (less suspension travel) would be fairly expensive but probably be the best way, but that's not the way most people do it and even that will shorten the wheel base and again change the handling.

Having said that to get the DR650 I was on as low as we dared with out rebuilding the shocks we did... boot soles, seat, longer rear suspension linkages and slipped the front forks up through the clamps.

Oh and if you want to cut and weld the side stand that can be arranged too, but getting a second one to keep one original for later would be good too.

Has anyone asked the Original Poster if they are still happy with their lowering setup almost a year on ?

Jally Bean
19th November 2011, 19:59
You made a good first impression when we met on Wednedsay, :love: girl and bike combined.
Wouldn't scare me though whether or not I might be called cute by your standard is probably all in the eye of the beholder.
I wouldn't be able to park the old Transalp next to your bike though until I've restored mine to it's former shiny glory with new paint etc. My DR is a bit dirty too.
However of course being that I'm already partnered up this bit was all very moot.


lol me too, partnered up that is I think, but I would never tell him that1




I can get you the name of the place that added a second sole to my partners boots

Please!!!!!!! I think boots are the answer.



Seats, I have a card for a man named Brendon at Canterbury Upholstery, 027 439 3659.


Hmmm I still dunno about this but I'm considering it... And the suspension stuff too - would be great if I didn't need all of that but if I have to go there to feel confident riding into the Wheatsheaf carpark I will.



Has anyone asked the Original Poster if they are still happy with their lowering setup almost a year on ?
Nope but I was hoping he would just chip in when he saw we are all still chatting.

Thanks for all that info - total overload but appreciated. Boots first and then I will see what else is needed.

Dschubba
21st November 2011, 17:16
Hiya

in response to a private message, yeah, I'm still happy with the mod.

Hadn't seen this post for a while and now reading back thru see a few negative posts about the effect this link would have on suspension geometry. Yeah, you are probably correct. However, really it doesn't feel much different to me than it did before, but has given Dawn heaps more confidence maneuvering the thing round a car park and pedaling it out of the garage. There is still heaps of clearance over the back wheel, she's a lot lighter than me!

Really, this confidence boost is worth more than any loss of handling- which I can't notice. She's a bit more conservative than me on it as well.

There was a reply in this thread that replaced the triangles. If I did it again I would probably go that way.

Cheers
Sean

Transalper
21st November 2011, 17:29
That's good to hear, thank you. :niceone:

Transalper
27th November 2011, 21:01
...Please!!!!!!! I think boots are the answer...

So the boots were just done at one of those Mr Minit key cutting and shoe repair stands in a mall.
The heal had about 10mm added, two layers of normal material.
The front of the sole had the softer material added which wears fairly fast and added about 5mm but gave better traction.
Any boot repair place should be able to offer something I imagine.

Jally Bean
28th November 2011, 21:49
So the boots were just done at one of those Mr Minit key cutting and shoe repair stands in a mall.
The heal had about 10mm added, two layers of normal material.
The front of the sole had the softer material added which wears fairly fast and added about 5mm but gave better traction.
Any boot repair place should be able to offer something I imagine.

awesome thanks so much!

Jally Bean
2nd December 2011, 13:32
No joy with Mr Minit Riccarton, but they sent me to a place on Lincoln Rd. Fingers crossed.