GV250 - No spark

[Suntoucher]

Morning,

At a loss as to the problem, have a GV250 that was running immaculately until one run out East and the lights start flashing, it coughs then dies.

Sulphurus smoke coming from the battery(which I admittedly haven't checked since it was purchased six months ago, and assume has never been checked), have to be towed home.

Switched the battery out thinking it was the issue but no luck, turns over fine, lights etc work but there's no spark, unless I remove the plug cable from the plug in which it fires out one spark and renders my arm useless for a couple seconds.

Moment I put the cable back onto the plug there's no spark again. It's as if the engine doesn't have a ground connection itself but everything else has.

CDI emits a high pitched squeal when ignition is on, not sure if that's normal.

Rest of the bike seems to be in working order, and when I pull the throttle it runs up as it gets air and fuel(fuel filter is also slowly draining as I turn it over) so it's definitely getting fuel.

Any ideas?

Edit: Haven't checked the fuse! Will do so now. Fuse is still...fused.

Here's a symptom, if I put my left indicator on the light switches on, but doesn't flash, and switches off if I turn it to the right or press it. But the right doesn't turn on.

[White trash]

Sounds like you've had a major electrical melt down there, luckily no electrical fire ensued. CDI's shouldn't squeal.

[Katman]

CDI's shouldn't squeal.

No, that's the owners job when they hear the price for one.

[Suntoucher]

It's not very audible, but noticeable when you get close up, unplugged the connection that runs to the front coil and it's silent, so it's either the CDI itself or a coil, but yeah, just had a look, one fifty to get a new one shipped down. Will call the shop tomorrow and see what I'm looking at for a new one on the spot.

Wonder if it's worth getting one of the GT250 ones, apparently they fix a few power band issues.

Do the lights etc all run through the CDI? Just seems strange that the indicators are acting up.

[notme]

Check point number 3 here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/132696-Basic-troubleshooting-steps) before doing anything else.

You could cost yourself a lot more if you replace CDI etc before fixing the original problem.

It sounds like what has happened is that your regulator/rectifier has failed and overvoltaged your electrical system. When this happens the battery will be way overcharging for a few days weeks or months depending on how much you ride, until it eventually boils and fails. Up until that point the battery is somewhat protecting the rest of the bike, so shortly after the battery goes, other things like the CDI will go. Check your indicator or any bulb that is not working, i bet it's blown from overvolts.

Find your original problem (probably dead RR as I said above) using the chart in the link. Once that is fixed if you still need to replace the CDI or any other bits, at least you won't kill them straight away!

[White trash]

Wonder if it's worth getting one of the GT250 ones, apparently they fix a few power band issues.

Don't get me started on those fucking Power Bands. Have a read of this http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/129725-How-a-quot-PowerBand-quot-works-on-a-2-Stroke?highlight=Power+Band

[FJRider]

Here's a symptom, if I put my left indicator on the light switches on, but doesn't flash, and switches off if I turn it to the right or press it. But the right doesn't turn on.

Sounds like a symptom of low battery voltage... Charge a battery fully and try again ...

[Suntoucher]

Check point number 3 here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/132696-Basic-troubleshooting-steps) before doing anything else.

You could cost yourself a lot more if you replace CDI etc before fixing the original problem.

It sounds like what has happened is that your regulator/rectifier has failed and overvoltaged your electrical system. When this happens the battery will be way overcharging for a few days weeks or months depending on how much you ride, until it eventually boils and fails. Up until that point the battery is somewhat protecting the rest of the bike, so shortly after the battery goes, other things like the CDI will go. Check your indicator or any bulb that is not working, i bet it's blown from overvolts.

Find your original problem (probably dead RR as I said above) using the chart in the link. Once that is fixed if you still need to replace the CDI or any other bits, at least you won't kill them straight away!

Hmm, everything else seems to be intact and all bulbs are fine.

Have removed the regulator anyway and will buy a voltmeter tomorrow and test it.

[notme]

Hmm, everything else seems to be intact and all bulbs are fine.

Have removed the regulator anyway and will buy a voltmeter tomorrow and test it.

Good stuff.

Weird that the bulbs are fine - it's far more liekly in this sort of scenario that the bulbs would go than anything else in the indicator circuit. Then again, it's a young bike, so maybe the indicators are electronic rather than simple flasher unit type. Hopefully not, because flashers are cheap!

You mentioned you have replaced the battery - just a reminder that the troubleshooting chart only works if you start with a battery in good working order that is charged. If you don't have a battery charger don't panic, but if the battery is reading below about 12.5 volts or the headlights are dim or the cranking is slow, you need to charge it before starting troubleshooting.

[FJRider]

You mentioned you have replaced the battery - just a reminder that the troubleshooting chart only works if you start with a battery in good working order that is charged. If you don't have a battery charger don't panic, but if the battery is reading below about 12.5 volts or the headlights are dim or the cranking is slow, you need to charge it before starting troubleshooting.

Look for the simple fix first ... Charge the battery. That should be step ONE on all electrical problem solving/finding ...

An XJ750 I own(and other bikes I have owned) will turn-over but not start unless the battery is (near)fully charged. It had the same symptoms with the indicators ... Fully charged the battery ... and all was well.

[Suntoucher]

It's a brand-new precharged motobatt. And have left the lights on before, this bike push starts without effort, let alone with an almost full battery.

[FJRider]

It's a brand-new precharged motobatt. And have left the lights on before, this bike push starts without effort, let alone with an almost full battery.

Again ... similar issues with my XJ's. They could push start no problem. Just not spin the engine over fast enough to start it.

Was the battery the same as the original ... ???

Get the starter motor and its connections checked as well if it is. (after the battery is checked ... new or not)

[notme]

A fully charged battery is the prerequisite for any electrical system troubleshooting, as I stated above, so i'm not disagreeing with you there, but the reason for charging the battery is to start finding the fault - charging it alone will not fix the OP's problem!

So i still recommend that the steps taken are

1 start with a charged battery
2 use the chart to find out what state the charging system is in
3 fix charging system
4 fix other electrical subsystems that may be damaged by the original fault (e.g. the CDI issue)

[Gibbo89]

Morning,



You in aussie? :msn-wink:

[Suntoucher]

Nope, just always say morning, regardless of time of day.

Heh, tested the points on the regulator and some are returning almost 2MOhms when it should be returning 7-8KOhms or off entirely. Only ones that are working properly are some of the OFFs and the 33KOhm connections.

[notme]

Er, what?

The regulator testing is done in volts (you are testing for continuity through the diodes) and the stator testing is done in ohms (you are testing for coil resistance)

what part of the chart are you working with? Section C?

[Suntoucher]

It's both a regulator/rectifier and service manual has it testing in Ohms. There are other tests for checking voltage running across the battery but they all involve running the bike. Something it doesn't do, resistance check just says if any of them are off to replace it entirely, so no real point checking the rest.

Can't really check any voltages without a running bike.

[notme]

OK, didn't realize you had a service manual, I thought you were using the generic chart linked to above.

You still need to test the rest of the system after replacing the RR, as it may not be the only damaged part. Obviously this means the bike needs to run, so after replacing the RR and making sure you have a good charged battery, see if it will then start.

[Suntoucher]

Cool, that's the plan, just waiting on the parts now. Having them shipped from the factory in Korea. Just to wait now.

[Suntoucher]

She lives!

[notme]

I guess you received and replaced your RR then?

But remember - you don't want to kill the new one because of another fault somewhere, so test the rest of the charging system :scooter:

[Suntoucher]

Yep, has all been tested and fine, couple other parts shot but aren't wholly necessary so will swap them at my own leisure.