View Full Version : Putting the crankcase back on?
HungusMaximist
6th February 2011, 23:43
Right, took the crankcase off, no problems. Replace the gasket, all good.
Now when I kick start it when the crankcase off, it kicks starts all good. Then things goes funny when put the crankcase on, insert a few screws and tighten it, then I attach the kick start pedal and try and kick start it, the pedal is drops down with no force. So there isn't any resistance, as if it the inner bits wasn't attached properly. As soon as I loosen the bolts, the resistance returns on the pedal, I take it off have a look if I have misaligned anything and it looks all good. And I go do up the crank case again, same thing happens, it doesn't have any feel, it just flops down.
Wha am I doing wrong???
Brian d marge
6th February 2011, 23:46
have a look at your post the answer is contained with in
Stephen
or you have screwed up the assembly
gammaguy
6th February 2011, 23:47
Right, took the crankcase off, no problems. Replace the gasket, all good.
Now when I kick start it when the crankcase off, it kicks starts all good. Then things goes funny when put the crankcase on, insert a few screws and tighten it, then I attach the kick start pedal and try and kick start it, the pedal is drops down with no force. So there isn't any resistance, as if it the inner bits wasn't attached properly. As soon as I loosen the bolts, the resistance returns on the pedal, I take it off have a look if I have misaligned anything and it looks all good. And I go do up the crank case again, same thing happens, it doesn't have any feel, it just flops down.
Wha am I doing wrong???\
What you are doing wrong is not taking it to someone who knows what they are doing if you dont have a manual and can follow it properly
repent now,or pay big bucks to get it fixed later.:yes:
HungusMaximist
7th February 2011, 00:20
Perhaps an answer or solution as opposed to some smart remark? It's a 5 hundy CT110 not a Ductati 1198 k? I suggest you google it as you guys seem pretty clueless on what I actually ride.
Brian d marge
7th February 2011, 02:55
Perhaps an answer or solution as opposed to some smart remark? It's a 5 hundy CT110 not a Ductati 1198 k? I suggest you google it as you guys seem pretty clueless on what I actually ride.
Think about what is happening to the cases when you tighten them up
Or
leave well alone
or pay me for twenty five odd years of experience
or
Learn like I did
hint , most likely you have a spacer , washer or shim in the wrong position
Stephen
HungusMaximist
7th February 2011, 10:36
^ Great, that's the advice that I needed. I'll check it out.
pete376403
7th February 2011, 10:44
Using the right terms helps, too. Crankcase is the bit that contains the crankshaft. Most unlikely the engine will run when the crankcase is off.
just being a pedant, but, y'know.
Does you local library have a service manual? Or can you down load one?
Parts diagrams here might help http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-ct110-trail-110-1982-us_model7374/partslist/
The Pastor
7th February 2011, 11:06
using the right terms helps, too. Crankcase is the bit that contains the crankshaft. Most unlikely the engine will run when the crankcase is off.
Just being a pedant, but, y'know.
Does you local library have a service manual? Or can you down load one?
Parts diagrams here might help http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-ct110-trail-110-1982-us_model7374/partslist/
mate i'll have some spare time tomorrow after work.
I think you mean clutch or side cover. Either way you shouldn't really be starting the bike with those off.
The Pastor
7th February 2011, 11:07
Im sorry mate but that post is too freeking classic.
HungusMaximist
7th February 2011, 13:13
Using the right terms helps, too. Crankcase is the bit that contains the crankshaft. Most unlikely the engine will run when the crankcase is off.
just being a pedant, but, y'know.
Does you local library have a service manual? Or can you down load one?
Parts diagrams here might help http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-ct110-trail-110-1982-us_model7374/partslist/
From the CT110 manual it says 'crankcase cover'
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20938801@N00/5423814126/" title="Fullscreen capture 7022011 22346 p.m. by Ewen Yu, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5423814126_e87b8f4a9e.jpg" width="500" height="400" alt="Fullscreen capture 7022011 22346 p.m." /></a>
platypus121
7th February 2011, 14:39
Ewen,
A CT kick-start mechanism needs a good condition clutch to work.
If the clutch is shot, or slipping badly, you will get a no-resistance effect as the kick-start lever can't crank the engine through the clutch.
Check the assembly of the clutch cam plate, oil by-pass pipe, ball retainer / clutch lifter and the clutch lever that meshes with the cam plate.
It is easy for these to get mis-aligned when you put the crankcase cover (yes, that is the correct term) back on.
To help keep all these bits in the right place as you reattach the cover, lay the bike flat on its left side so that the cover can be lowered vertically - that way gravity can't misalign all the fiddly bits.
If any of the clutch activation bits above are misaligned, as you tighten the cover screws the clutch will be disengaged and the kick-start lever will not operate.
As the cover is lowered, it should fit flush all the way around where it meets the crankcase, if it does not, something is out of its correct position.
You should screw the clutch adjuster in the crankcase cover right out before you reassemble.
And ... ignore the smart-arse comments from the ignoramuses!!
Brian d marge
7th February 2011, 15:17
Ewen,
A CT kick-start mechanism needs a good condition clutch to work.
If the clutch is shot, or slipping badly, you will get a no-resistance effect as the kick-start lever can't crank the engine through the clutch.
Check the assembly of the clutch cam plate, oil by-pass pipe, ball retainer / clutch lifter and the clutch lever that meshes with the cam plate.
It is easy for these to get mis-aligned when you put the crankcase cover (yes, that is the correct term) back on.
To help keep all these bits in the right place as you reattach the cover, lay the bike flat on its left side so that the cover can be lowered vertically - that way gravity can't misalign all the fiddly bits.
If any of the clutch activation bits above are misaligned, as you tighten the cover screws the clutch will be disengaged and the kick-start lever will not operate.
As the cover is lowered, it should fit flush all the way around where it meets the crankcase, if it does not, something is out of its correct position.
You should screw the clutch adjuster in the crankcase cover right out before you reassemble.
And ... ignore the smart-arse comments from the ignoramuses!!
Some of us get a bit weary of answering posts when the person hasn't done enough research ( 2 min on google for ct 110 )
25 odd years as a mechanic , these types of posts get a bit weary
No problem in helping some one if evidence of a damn good try , fail is evident , but not even having a manual at hand
Stephen
sorry not having a poke at original poster , but the type of post in general
HungusMaximist
7th February 2011, 15:39
Ewen,
A CT kick-start mechanism needs a good condition clutch to work.
If the clutch is shot, or slipping badly, you will get a no-resistance effect as the kick-start lever can't crank the engine through the clutch.
Check the assembly of the clutch cam plate, oil by-pass pipe, ball retainer / clutch lifter and the clutch lever that meshes with the cam plate.
It is easy for these to get mis-aligned when you put the crankcase cover (yes, that is the correct term) back on.
To help keep all these bits in the right place as you reattach the cover, lay the bike flat on its left side so that the cover can be lowered vertically - that way gravity can't misalign all the fiddly bits.
If any of the clutch activation bits above are misaligned, as you tighten the cover screws the clutch will be disengaged and the kick-start lever will not operate.
As the cover is lowered, it should fit flush all the way around where it meets the crankcase, if it does not, something is out of its correct position.
You should screw the clutch adjuster in the crankcase cover right out before you reassemble.
And ... ignore the smart-arse comments from the ignoramuses!!
Thanks for that advice, I had trouble getting the crankcase on with all the bits on properly with the bike vertical. Great idea on lying the bike on it's side.
Funny you mention the clutch slipping - when I poured new oil in, the gear shifting was really abrupt as in, it would engage too quick as soon as I touched the lever. So there wasn't an slight interval between me step on the gear lever and it gear switching into place. So that's another thing I need to look at.
Thanks Bernard.
HungusMaximist
7th February 2011, 15:41
Some of us get a bit weary of answering posts when the person hasn't done enough research ( 2 min on google for ct 110 )
25 odd years as a mechanic , these types of posts get a bit weary
No problem in helping some one if evidence of a damn good try , fail is evident , but not even having a manual at hand
Stephen
sorry not having a poke at original poster , but the type of post in general
I'm not a mechanic but I do have a manual.
What's wrong in asking a question?
platypus121
7th February 2011, 15:51
"... gear shifting was really abrupt as in, it would engage too quick as soon as I touched the lever. So there wasn't an slight interval between me step on the gear lever and it gear switching into place".
If the clutch adjuster (in crankcase cover) was in too far, that would account for the change problem and possibly the kick-start problem as well.
The manual gives the clutch setting method - be careful when you tighten the locknut as the adjuster screw can move with it and reduce clearance to zero giving you an instant crash gearbox!
Use a ring spanner on the locknut while you hold the screw with a screw driver.
nodrog
7th February 2011, 15:51
From the CT110 manual it says 'crankcase cover'
Crankcase and Crankcase cover are about as similar as Arse and Pants. When you take your pants off do you call it "removing my Arse"?
Fanny.
Brian d marge
7th February 2011, 16:19
I'm not a mechanic but I do have a manual.
What's wrong in asking a question?
nothing
Good questions, grow both the listener and the speaker
Stephen
Spearfish
7th February 2011, 16:29
Crankcase and Crankcase cover are about as similar as Arse and Pants. When you take your pants off do you call it "removing my Arse"?
Fanny.
:rofl::moon:
Thanks for that one Auntfanny, will use it many times over next week.
HungusMaximist
8th February 2011, 12:08
Crankcase and Crankcase cover are about as similar as Arse and Pants. When you take your pants off do you call it "removing my Arse"?
Fanny.
True, I was in the wrong.
pete376403
8th February 2011, 15:52
Glad thats sorted. Have you got the kickstarter working yet?
The Pastor
8th February 2011, 16:07
Ewen,
A CT kick-start mechanism needs a good condition clutch to work.
If the clutch is shot, or slipping badly, you will get a no-resistance effect as the kick-start lever can't crank the engine through the clutch.
would putting fresh car oil into the engine cause the clutch to behave like this? and fit the symptoms ewen described? I had problems using car oil on my TF125 even tho the manual said to use car oil.
FJRider
8th February 2011, 16:29
Crankcase and Crankcase cover are about as similar as Arse and Pants. When you take your pants off do you call it "removing my Arse"?
Fanny.
I call it "removing my ass cover" what do you call it ??? :innocent:
tri boy
8th February 2011, 16:54
"... gear shifting was really abrupt as in, it would engage too quick as soon as I touched the lever. So there wasn't an slight interval between me step on the gear lever and it gear switching into place".
If the clutch adjuster (in crankcase cover) was in too far, that would account for the change problem and possibly the kick-start problem as well.
The manual gives the clutch setting method - be careful when you tighten the locknut as the adjuster screw can move with it and reduce clearance to zero giving you an instant crash gearbox!
Use a ring spanner on the locknut while you hold the screw with a screw driver.
Wot he said.
Loosen the lock nut.
Screw the screw IN, a bit.
Fit clutch housing cover, (making sure all bushes, washers, and kick start bits are seated properly.
Carefully tighten down cover, checking for shift free play via the gear shift lever on the shift shaft.
Screw the clutch freeplay adjust screw OUT until you feel slight loading on the thread.
Screw the screw IN about 1/4 turn, and nip the lock nut up making sure the screw dosen't turn.
Check for a bit of slack at the gearshift.
I prefer todo this job with the bike upright, and a bit of grease on the clutch actuator plate/bearing/spring to keep everything in the right place.
Good luck.:sunny:
HungusMaximist
8th February 2011, 17:42
OK GOT THE CRANKCASE COVER ON ALL GOOD. STARTS FINE.
But the gear lever is stuck solid.
Solution??????????
The Pastor
8th February 2011, 18:41
OK GOT THE CRANKCASE COVER ON ALL GOOD. STARTS FINE.
But the gear lever is stuck solid.
Solution??????????
did u adjust the clutch like recommended?
HungusMaximist
8th February 2011, 18:57
na, I haven't. Now the gasket is rooted from removing the crankcase cover ike 10 times. Haha.
Can I make my own? I got gasket goo (pep) or sealant.
HungusMaximist
8th February 2011, 19:05
na, I haven't. Now the gasket is rooted from removing the crankcase cover ike 10 times. Haha.
Can I make my own? I got gasket goo (pep) or sealant.
Rooted as in, it's ripped. It is after all a piece of paper with some holes.
pete376403
8th February 2011, 19:55
na, I haven't. Now the gasket is rooted from removing the crankcase cover ike 10 times. Haha.
Can I make my own? I got gasket goo (pep) or sealant.
Course you can. Get proper gasket paper from Repco (Supercheap maybe). You can use the round end of a small ball pein hammer to cut them (but seeing as you're not having much luck so far, the hammer might not be a good idea...) Lay the paper over the cover and draw around to get the shape. If the cover is a bit dirty it will transfer the pattern to the paper when you rub over the edges.
Gasket punches are cheap(ish), put the paper on a block of hardwood, punch the hole out and test for alignment, then cut out with scissors.
Make the gasket correctly and you shouldnt need any goo or sealant.
platypus121
8th February 2011, 21:14
would putting fresh car oil into the engine cause the clutch to behave like this? and fit the symptoms ewen described? I had problems using car oil on my TF125 even tho the manual said to use car oil.
Oils with friction modifiers may cause a CT clutch to slip. Other than that, pretty much any oil will do, but the better the oil, the better the protection.
I use Mobil 1 - expensive, but the CT only takes a litre.
Have you seen the You Tube clip where a Cub is run on old chip-oil?
platypus121
8th February 2011, 21:35
OK GOT THE CRANKCASE COVER ON ALL GOOD. STARTS FINE.
But the gear lever is stuck solid.
Solution??????????
Will it move at all? If not, don't force it.
Get your manual and find the pix of the Gear Shift Linkage - it's behind the big gear that surrounds the clutch housing.
Sometimes the Drum Stopper Arm can come off the star-shaped Stopper Plate.
You'll just be able to see these behind the clutch housing at the top left.
These are the only gear shift related parts on that side of the crankcase - maybe they have become misaligned during your other work.
If your CT has the dual range sub-transmission and the gear lever will move, but gears are not being selected, check that the sub-tranny lever is not in neutral.
Indiana_Jones
8th February 2011, 22:57
Why don't they use cork gaskets these days? lol
-Indy
gammaguy
9th February 2011, 00:05
Why don't they use cork gaskets these days? lol
-Indy
because the trees they were made from are scarce and the wine industry pays more for cork than the automotive industry does.
nodrog
9th February 2011, 06:34
I call it "removing my ass cover" what do you call it ??? :innocent:
Flirting :innocent:
Fanny.
Indiana_Jones
9th February 2011, 07:31
because the trees they were made from are scarce and the wine industry pays more for cork than the automotive industry does.
Fair enough. I got a new cork Rocker cover gasket for my BGT the other day :D
$4ish
-Indy
FJRider
9th February 2011, 17:11
Flirting :innocent:
Fanny.
Pic's or it doesn't happen ... :innocent:
Flip
9th February 2011, 20:41
Why don't they use cork gaskets these days? lol
-Indy
Because the natural materials are not 100% compatable with synthetic oils.
I have a Midget and it is nice to go to the local MG parts shop and pick up all the parts you need at a very low cost and not be told they have to order it from Japan.
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