Advice needed on mountain bikes

[Hiflyer]

I’m looking at buying a mountain bike, not one that needs to have the best suspension brakes, carbon fibre frame etc etc just a good one I can get to and work from, use on the mountains around Auckland and do a few wheelies for the chicks :facepalm:

I don’t know much about mountain bikes, just that they can be a lot of fun, and I’m only looking to spend around $250-$400.

Should I be looking for one with front and rear suspension?? I know I want proper disc brakes, as I’ve ridden a couple with them and a couple without and know I want them :)

Is there anything else I should be thinking of?

TIA!

[scissorhands]

I used to ride to the top of OT Hill 4 times a day, via the sheep trails!

Frame size is critical for off roading, get the right size frame. Tyre types are important too, summer and winter.

If $400 is your max you wont get hydraulic disc brakes, and cable ones are crap, so settle for rim brakes, they work very well when set up properly.

[Hiflyer]

If $400 is your max you wont get hydraulic disc brakes, and cable ones are crap, so settle for rim brakes, they work very well when set up properly.

Even if the conditions are muddy or wet?

I assume full suspension would be better for what I'm going to be doing as well?

It's coming into winter and I've seen heaps of sales on so I'm hoping that a more expensive bike might be on sale for an affordable price for me... :innocent:

[nosebleed]

Rear suspension is not a must. It's more suited to trails. If your mainly on the seal and popping wheelies you'll find that a lot of energy is wasted just making the suspension work.

You'll notice the road orientated bikes have front springers only.

[Latte]

At $400 any full suspension bike is going to be utter shit (new) and/or flogged to death (2nd hand).

Go to woodhill and hire one of their hardtails (front suspension only), they'll have a bike with cross country geometry (XC Bike) , and one with more of a jumping geometry (Dirt Jumper). You can probably convince them to let you try both (say half day rental, split it with an hour on each).

If it were me I'd get the dirt jumper, kinda like a big BMX , can get you around, and feels better trying to wheelie, downhills, jumps etc (obviously). If you stretch to $500-$600 you'll get a lot more bike (2nd hand, but name brand and good cond) although you'll might still find a few good bikes for $400 ish

[HenryDorsetCase]

I’m looking at buying a mountain bike, not one that needs to have the best suspension brakes, carbon fibre frame etc etc just a good one I can get to and work from, use on the mountains around Auckland and do a few wheelies for the chicks :facepalm:

I don’t know much about mountain bikes, just that they can be a lot of fun, and I’m only looking to spend around $250-$400.

Should I be looking for one with front and rear suspension?? I know I want proper disc brakes, as I’ve ridden a couple with them and a couple without and know I want them :)

Is there anything else I should be thinking of?

TIA!


for that money, look at a hardtail, from a name brand with OK componentry. ask on www.vorb.org.nz for recommendations for a bikeshop, try a few, then see what you can get for the coin.

for that money, you could buy secondhand, but if you dont know what you're looking for, its a lottery.

post up some alternatives, let the critique begin.


Definitely do not buy a shitbox brand from Kmart or the Whorehouse. its teh equivalent of buying a "cheap" Chinese scooter or something. Just dont.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Even if the conditions are muddy or wet?

I assume full suspension would be better for what I'm going to be doing as well?

It's coming into winter and I've seen heaps of sales on so I'm hoping that a more expensive bike might be on sale for an affordable price for me... :innocent:

you arent spending enough money to get worthwhile full suspension.

leftovers in winter is a good plan.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I used to ride to the top of OT Hill 4 times a day, via the sheep trails!

Frame size is critical for off roading, get the right size frame. Tyre types are important too, summer and winter.

If $400 is your max you wont get hydraulic disc brakes, and cable ones are crap, so settle for rim brakes, they work very well when set up properly.

there are cable discs and cable discs. I have Avid BB7's on two of my bikes and I really rate them. but shitmaster brand made of cheese not so much.

the thing with a pushbike is you sort of get what you pay for, up to about the $3k pricepoint. After that, its wank value.

You are right about frame size. but its not just standover, its top tube. ETT in fact (effective top tube).

OP: how tall are you, and what size legs and torso ahve you got? you a gnome or a spider?

[SMOKEU]

Do a skid like this guy


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3L8hO7tD_OI&feature=fvst

[aprilia_RS250]

I had the same requirements as you so got me an Avanti Ridge Rider '07 version. Hydraulic brakes and good Shinamo gear system. RST suspension.... fairly average to be honest but has the easy push to lock front suspension mechanism, good for commuting and cycling up hills, does ok offroad. Aluminium frame so no rusting, on the heavy side so can handle a bit of pain and will make you fitter! Paid 800 few years ago probably worth around ~400 now. Similar to this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Mountain-bikes/Front-suspension/auction-353302216.htm

[marty]

I bought an Avanti Competitor for $450 - XT componentry and hydraulic brakes. It's taken a beating, rides 30k road/river trail rides twice a week and does x-country duties beautifully.

[Drunken Monkey]

As HDC says, there are good cable brakes and bad ones. I had an apollo with cable discs, they never failed me even under abuse. My mate is now riding it, still no issues.
And ditto on a warehouse cheapie, it will break.
You won't get a good full sus for that price new, so just look hardtail.
You won't find a good downhill style one with big travel on the front sus either, so look for a solid XC style.

If you do want to buy new, look for run outs/last season bikes. The RRP margins are ridiculous (never pay sticker price) and the shops are pressured to sell the latest and greatest, so previous years models get dumped and often enough the differences are only 1 or 2 components or the paint job.

I ride a full sus with 120mm of travel on the fronts, but that's only cos I get them at importer pricing. Back before I had access to massive discounts on Merida gear I would've bought a Trek or Kona hard tail, even those were more than enough bike.

[Hiflyer]

there are cable discs and cable discs. I have Avid BB7's on two of my bikes and I really rate them. but shitmaster brand made of cheese not so much.

the thing with a pushbike is you sort of get what you pay for, up to about the $3k pricepoint. After that, its wank value.

You are right about frame size. but its not just standover, its top tube. ETT in fact (effective top tube).

OP: how tall are you, and what size legs and torso ahve you got? you a gnome or a spider?

Bit of a spider haha I'm 6'2 not sure about how tall my legs are but I'd say normal height .... if that's a good enough explanation :facepalm:


As HDC says, there are good cable brakes and bad ones. I had an apollo with cable discs, they never failed me even under abuse. My mate is now riding it, still no issues.
And ditto on a warehouse cheapie, it will break.
You won't get a good full sus for that price new, so just look hardtail.
You won't find a good downhill style one with big travel on the front sus either, so look for a solid XC style.

If you do want to buy new, look for run outs/last season bikes. The RRP margins are ridiculous (never pay sticker price) and the shops are pressured to sell the latest and greatest, so previous years models get dumped and often enough the differences are only 1 or 2 components or the paint job.

I ride a full sus with 120mm of travel on the fronts, but that's only cos I get them at importer pricing. Back before I had access to massive discounts on Merida gear I would've bought a Trek or Kona hard tail, even those were more than enough bike.


for that money, look at a hardtail, from a name brand with OK componentry. ask on www.vorb.org.nz for recommendations for a bikeshop, try a few, then see what you can get for the coin.

for that money, you could buy secondhand, but if you dont know what you're looking for, its a lottery.

post up some alternatives, let the critique begin.


Definitely do not buy a shitbox brand from Kmart or the Whorehouse. its teh equivalent of buying a "cheap" Chinese scooter or something. Just dont.

and no I wont be buying anything from Kmart or Warewhare. haha I'd much rather something from a dedicated bike shop.

I'll have a nose around on trademe, so you guys reckon an XC bike with front susp only and cable discs would be sweet for the price range I'm looking at??

I must admit I do drive a hard bargain and get good discounts when they're available. And even when they're not haha. I NEVER pay sticker price if I know I don't have to..

[shrub]

At that price you'll end up with crap bought new whereas there are a lot of good bikes for around that money on tardme - I ride a 10 year old Marin every day and it goes brilliantly because I have kept on top of the maintenance. Things to consider;
Buy a known brand - Giant, GT, Marin, Trek, Kona or Bauer are all good bikes, and you need an 18 inch fram for your height.

Ignore full suspension. Front is all you need for 99% of recreational mountain biking and 100% of commuting and rear suspension draws pedal energy, so they're harder to ride.

Check the components (gears and brakes). You should be looking for Deore or LX comps as a minumum, and check their condition. If they're badly chipped and marked and if they don't show signs of regular cleaning and lubing, walk away. The cables and chain are a giveaway - if they're clean, adjusted and work well it says a lot about the previous owner, and check the condition of fasteners. The bike should feel tight and crisp to ride with no slop in gears, brakes, pedals etc.

I have V brakes and weigh 120 kg and the bike stops fine from any speed, so don't be afraid of rim brakes. If the bike has rim brakes, look at the wear on the rim because that will tell you how much it's worked.

[avgas]

- If your over 6ft you will need a Large frame (if its mostly road riding), say 20" or bigger.

- as others have said you don't need rear suspension unless you have gammy legs or ride lots of trails

- When you get front suspension ALWAYS get "lock outs" as this makes road riding better.

- Depending on how often you ride, second hand can be a good option - the trick is to check the componenty. Go for a short ride, if anything clunks or grinds DON"T BUY! When I was racing, my bike cost just over $900 and I ended up spending about $2000-3000 on componenty I broke over 2 years. (heh I still have the frame - gonna make me a coffee table one day)

- Don't bother with discs if its just a commuter. V-brakes give better feel and are easier to maintain. I actually prefer a V-brake rear now to disc - I just about wanted to rip the Hayes9 off my old bike a few times. I would love a set of Magura Hydraulic rim clamps - even more than the top disc brakes.

- Get a XC frame if your coming back to riding. Dirt jump bikes a great fun but completely impractical to ride to work if your not fit.

- Brands ARE important. RockShox, Marzocchi , Shimano, Magura, RST, GT, Avanti.......etc have spent 30 years building quality MTB stuff. SR Suntour, Mongoose......have been selling the same badly copied cheap crap for years. Avoid like the plague

There are brands in the middle, some have done good - others not so much.
Diamond Back (called DBX now I think), Wheeler, Merinda...etc - only buy if your getting a really good deal. They usually have 1 thing wrong with them, but if you can live with it they are OK. My old Wheeler was quite heavy - but was a great bike overall for the money.

[DEATH_INC.]

Didn't see it in the above posts, but I reckon double walled rims are a must if you're gonna 'use' it. That's what i kill first.... And v brakes are sweet, just chuck good pads in 'em. They aren't all the same :)

[neels]

For your budget you'll have to be getting an awesomely good deal to get anything decent new, so something second hand is probably a better bet. From my limited experience...

If you're 6'2" you're looking at a large (around 21") frame
V brakes are ok unless you plan on getting dirty, then your pads are eating your rims
Good cable discs are as good as if not better than cheap hydraulics
8 speed parts are cheaper than 9 speed parts if you buy a bike needing some work
Find someone that knows there way around a bike to go shopping with you.

I have bought a couple of cheap 'project' bikes in the past, something that costs about $100 to buy off trademe is usually going to cost at least twice that to make into a presentable bike, but it's still cheaper than buying a bike in good going order because people are wary of stuff that needs work.

[avgas]

I have bought a couple of cheap 'project' bikes in the past, something that costs about $100 to buy off trademe is usually going to cost at least twice that to make into a presentable bike, but it's still cheaper than buying a bike in good going order because people are wary of stuff that needs work.
I just did this recently.
My total bill thus far has been $125.
I was going stir crazy as I needed some pedaling.
Bike cost $80 I think. Most of the stuff needed doing was modding and cleaning. But I have changed the pedals to platforms (Until I can find some cheap triple traps), put new grips on it, and some second hand tyres.
Its funny though as all the gear I took off it I sold for $20 (indicators, lights etc).

I remember back in the days an STX RC selector used to cost me $250........and yet now I have a working bike for just over $100.

[avgas]

If the OP want me to make another Frankenstein bike for him let me know.
I quite enjoyed it.

[Hiflyer]

If the OP want me to make another Frankenstein bike for him let me know.
I quite enjoyed it.

Hmmm very tempting haha where in NZ are ya? EDIT - Oh auckland City ay, I'm in Epsom maself

depending on what comes up in the stores and on Trademe I might just buy one straight off the bat, if not I'll keep this as an idea!

[Hiflyer]

- When you get front suspension ALWAYS get "lock outs" as this makes road riding better.


I assume that's the way you change the suspension travel?

Gotta love google....

[neels]

I assume that's the way you change the suspension travel?
So you can lock the suspension. Useful on a full suspension bike on the road, but got it on the front of all my mountainbikes and never used it on any of them, if you're bouncing that much when you're pedalling on the road I'd say you're doing it wrong.

[Latte]

So you can lock the suspension. Useful on a full suspension bike on the road, but got it on the front of all my mountainbikes and never used it on any of them, if you're bouncing that much when you're pedalling on the road I'd say you're doing it wrong.

After a couple of runs forgetting to take the pop loc off I decided i'd rather struggle up the hills, than crap myself down them.... ripped the lever off - sorted. Actually made me a better climber as I had to focus on technique (not that I was ever good at climbing).

[marty]

for a weekend warrier lockout front suspension is a waste of time. you shoudn't be climbing over the front wheel anyway. balance your weight between front and rear to stop the front from lifting on steep climbs. it shouldn't bounce. on fast short climbs there is little to be gained from locking out for the 5-10 seconds of climb unless you are trying to qualify for the worlds.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Mountain-bikes/Front-suspension/auction-352963703.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Mountain-bikes/Front-suspension/auction-352048492.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Mountain-bikes/Front-suspension/auction-351564829.htm

the Kona is bit more specialised and they tend to be a little heavier, but they are also fantasticly strong commuter and skate-park bikes - my 6'5" 105kg son hasn't broken his one yet and he rides vert ramp on it! (his is single speed, not 8 speed though)

[Hiflyer]

for a weekend warrier lockout front suspension is a waste of time. you shoudn't be climbing over the front wheel anyway. balance your weight between front and rear to stop the front from lifting on steep climbs. it shouldn't bounce. on fast short climbs there is little to be gained from locking out for the 5-10 seconds of climb unless you are trying to qualify for the worlds.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Mountain-bikes/Front-suspension/auction-352963703.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Mountain-bikes/Front-suspension/auction-352048492.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Mountain-bikes/Front-suspension/auction-351564829.htm

the Kona is bit more specialised and they tend to be a little heavier, but they are also fantasticly strong commuter and skate-park bikes - my 6'5" 105kg son hasn't broken his one yet and he rides vert ramp on it! (his is single speed, not 8 speed though)

Those last two are out of my price range at the mo unfortunately. In regards to the Kona though, would that really be appropriate for a commute??

What about these?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=352277271

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=352962135

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=353240294

[Hiflyer]

Couple of people told me to make sure I don;t buy a commuter bike, like this one,

But I like the sound of this one (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=352277271), even tough it only has rim brakes

should I be wary?

[Latte]

Couple of people told me to make sure I don;t buy a commuter bike, like this one,

But I like the sound of this one (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=352277271), even tough it only has rim brakes

should I be wary?

I'd avoid , the frame being no name is one thing, but the componentry being no name is asking for trouble..... (it's the components that have all the moving parts). Strictly as a commuter the frame might be ok, but the wheels/drivetrain etc won't last - and chances are when you take it to the bike shop they'll be throwaway items. The other 2 bikes have name brand components and are known brands, so should be ok.

[Hiflyer]

I'd avoid , the frame being no name is one thing, but the componentry being no name is asking for trouble..... (it's the components that have all the moving parts). Strictly as a commuter the frame might be ok, but the wheels/drivetrain etc won't last - and chances are when you take it to the bike shop they'll be throwaway items. The other 2 bikes have name brand components and are known brands, so should be ok.

Fair enough, I thought Malvern was quite big in Aus, sys they've been in business since 1902

http://www.malvernstar.com.au/about/

[Latte]

Fair enough, I thought Malvern was quite big in Aus, sys they've been in business since 1902

http://www.malvernstar.com.au/about/

I'd heard of malvern star but not malvern (assumed it was a copy of sorts - my bad for not reading). The componentry is definitely suspect though.... shimano make good componentry (although in this case I haven't heard of them doing 7 spd stuff for a looong time) - but the rest is very budget. If you're gonna use it to go get the bread from the dairy, or do a short commute might be fine.... but wouldn't be up for any off road work and I'd say you'd be replacing stuff within a short time period.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Those last two are out of my price range at the mo unfortunately. In regards to the Kona though, would that really be appropriate for a commute??

What about these?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=352277271

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=352962135

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=353240294

my pick of those is the Giant XTC, all other things being equal. for the money you're spending it is all about compromise. Why i picked the Giant: Giant are a decent "Budget" brand (and in fact make some damn good bikes). it has components I have heard of. It looks OK condition wise. Its 27 speed. Its got disc brakes

Never ever buy a bike (or motorbike) without looking at it and test riding it. Note too that guy has zero feedback.

You want to assess its condition, whether it needs any of the consumable parts replaced, what the tyres are like, whether the forks go up and down, whether it shifts gears properly, and whether there are clunks and squeaks or rattles. Plus whether you like the seat, bars pegs etc.

use flat pedals (not too aggressive) because you dont want to have to buy shoes and cleats as well. Plus they are a bitch to set up, and if you do it wrong you are asking for hip, knee and ankle problems. Its worth getting a bike fit from a LBS: cost you some money but worth it in the long term.

Buy yourself a decent set of bike shorts. Wear other shorts over them if you must. Your arse will thank me.... www.groundeffect.co.nz locals, made in NZ, really decent kit and it lasts. Yes a pair of bike shorts costs $100: just suck it up.


dont be concerned about whether it shifts into or pedals well in gear combos you will never use (cross chaining): smallest on the front and smallest on the back, and biggest on the front and biggest on the back. That one in particular strains the crap out of your chain and derailleur. And if your chain is too short and you fuck it up, it has potential to rip the fucker right off the frame (bitter experience talking.....).

things that are consumable items on a pushbike: tyres. brake pads. cables. rear clusters, chains. front chainrings (though you will get two clusters and two chains to one set of chainrings generally)

If your budget stretches to it, and it fits:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Road-bikes/Medium-53-56cm/auction-353585284.htm

all it would need is a set of mudguards (you need them on a commuter bike, trust me) and maybe an upgrade to discs, and that is a capable bike. Surly are cool, too.

[Okey Dokey]

I bought a second hand (ex-rental) Avanti Spirit about 7 months ago for $299 from Blenheim. This style probably isn't hardcore enough for you, I suspect. It came with brand new tyres fitted. It was in beautiful condition and the staff at Spokesman Cycle avantiplus provided great support. Great folk to deal with!

It is a comfort/mtb. It has suspension in the seatpost in addition to front suspension. I find this works well over potholes/corrugations on the gravel roads I pedal on. May be an option for you? Wiser heads here can comment.

I'm really pleased I got an Avanti. I think the quality is excellent. Manitou shocks, Deore gears, etc. I hope you find a bike that makes you as happy as mine does.

[MisterD]

It's singlespeed, but this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Other-bikes/auction-353430897.htm

is an absolute bargain. I'd be bidding if it wasn't too damn big for me.

[ac3_snow]

pm sent, I work at pack and pedal newmarket, come down sunday and check out what got, give you an idea of what to look out for.

[Brian d marge]

I bought a chinki from my local DIY shop

cheap as

The front gear changer thingy wore out , in 4 months , as did the tyres and brakes

replaced those with a muddy fox one I had lying around

been sweet as ever since

I cycle 40 km most days 20km to and from work
and have been for 8 months now , since I bought the thing....
I do like the idea of a Giant , with disk brakes and light and all , but if it was stolen ,,,,
if the chinki was stolen ,,, who cares , its paid for itself , many times over

Doesn't stop me from standing outside the bike shop drooling , like I used to outside the motorcycle shop windows back in the day !!

Stephen

[avgas]

So you can lock the suspension. Useful on a full suspension bike on the road, but got it on the front of all my mountainbikes and never used it on any of them, if you're bouncing that much when you're pedalling on the road I'd say you're doing it wrong.
Depends on the quality of the shock, and how hard you pedal.
It takes a bit of skill to crank over the frame when going up-hill.
Likewise if you have a set of plush forks like DirtJams etc even cranked up full load they wallow a good 10-20mm when you hammer it.

Worst I had was trying to do a triathlon with a set of BOXXER's - I looked like I was riding a pogo stick with wheels at kick off. But man they were lovely shocks when you hit a 'suprise' dropoff

I miss having nice bikes. They were nice.

[Headbanger]

I bought a budget bike, about $500 if memory is correct.

Its been fucking awesome, if it died now I'd give it an honour burial.

No idea what quality it is, well apart from the fact I'm 130kg (well, a bit lighter now) and Ive beat the shit out of it, leave it outside or on the back of the work ute, and she has never failed or cost me a penny.

I do anywhere from 20 to 80km a week on her rain, hail or shine, and shes been going strong for a good 4 or 5 years. Crank bearings are now a little fucked.

Sure I don't ride up or down actual mountains but she sees a lot of different terrain, terrain that would destroy a road bike with one ride.

I'd be interested if its considered a piece of shit by "those in the know"

[Headbanger]

m
Buy yourself a decent set of bike shorts. Wear other shorts over them if you must. Your arse will thank me.... www.groundeffect.co.nz (http://www.groundeffect.co.nz) locals, made in NZ, really decent kit and it lasts. Yes a pair of bike shorts costs $100: just suck it up.


Surely you jest?

I spent $25 on a gel seat, then simply ignored the minor discomfort until it went away, Just like we all did back in the 70's.

Of course I stick out like a sore thumb when I'm cycling as I'm wearing my work clothes, Makes sense to me, one set of dirty clothes for the day, they go in the wash when I have my nightly shower.

I figure I'm the only one out there on a bike thats not an egg, fuckin silly fuckers with their costumes on, acting like they own the road.

LMFAO.

[Headbanger]

My next bike

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Mountain-bikes/Front-suspension/auction-353798805.htm

[Latte]

I bought a budget bike, about $500 if memory is correct.

Its been fucking awesome, if it died now I'd give it an honour burial.

No idea what quality it is, well apart from the fact I'm 130kg (well, a bit lighter now) and Ive beat the shit out of it, leave it outside or on the back of the work ute, and she has never failed or cost me a penny.

I do anywhere from 20 to 80km a week on her rain, hail or shine, and shes been going strong for a good 4 or 5 years. Crank bearings are now a little fucked.

Sure I don't ride up or down actual mountains but she sees a lot of different terrain, terrain that would destroy a road bike with one ride.

I'd be interested if its considered a piece of shit by "those in the know"

Bauer - known brand in the US I beleive.... You'd prob still get a few hundred notes for it?

[HenryDorsetCase]

Surely you jest?

I spent $25 on a gel seat, then simply ignored the minor discomfort until it went away, Just like we all did back in the 70's.

Of course I stick out like a sore thumb when I'm cycling as I'm wearing my work clothes, Makes sense to me, one set of dirty clothes for the day, they go in the wash when I have my nightly shower.

I figure I'm the only one out there on a bike thats not an egg, fuckin silly fuckers with their costumes on, acting like they own the road.

LMFAO.

dont confuse wearing lycra shorts with full roadie fag getup. In my (now infrequent) mountain bike rides I wear decent shorts, with baggie shorts over the top, and either a t shirt or sweatshirt or GE top. Its about comfort and fitness for purpose. Plus if you do a lot of miles decent bike shorts make a massive difference. Its like wearing decent kit when you're riding your motorbike innit?

[neels]

I'd be interested if its considered a piece of shit by "those in the know"
Nope, it's probably about right for what the op was looking at doing with a bike,

[spacemonkey]

It's singlespeed, but this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Other-bikes/auction-353430897.htm

is an absolute bargain. I'd be bidding if it wasn't too damn big for me.

Hoooly shit that's a bargain! :shit:
And dammit to big for me too. :(
Surly's are awesome bikes. :yes:

[marty]

there's gonna be a bidding war on the Surly tomorrow night. That bike will go for over a grand i reckon.

The Bauer looks like a bargain. I'd be happy on that as a city communter and occasional off-road.

Giant do make good bikes.

The Kona would be my choice though - simply because of its strength. As I said though - I am on an Avanti Competitor with full XT and hydraulic brakes, so I feel a little spoiled :)

[avgas]

Bauer - known brand in the US I beleive.... You'd prob still get a few hundred notes for it?
Good brand. Been here a long time. Only problem they had in their past was crap component (most of the guys used to rip it out and replace it with Shimano, and replace the shocks with Manitous).

I have always been a fan of GT frames......but never owned one :facepalm:
Kona is quite young here. But great bikes. Avanti is old hat, but like the age old saying goes if it aint broke dont fix it. I rebent my old Barracuda frame 100's of times.
I miss Cro-Mo :shutup:

[MisterD]

Kona is quite young here. But great bikes.

My first MTB in '88 was a Kona Fire Mountain...black with pink spatter paint job :Punk:



Avanti is old hat, but like the age old saying goes if it aint broke dont fix it.
I miss Cro-Mo :shutup:

I'm pretty impressed with the current crop of Avantis, quite possibly going their way for the 29er I'm just about to buy.

Steel, as they say, is real.

http://www.singularcycles.com/peregrine.html

[Jdogg]

I ride a second hand Avanti Barracuda Comp, bout 7 odd years old, still going strong, it has v brakes, old RST suspension and a buckled rim from where I was cut off and put a sizable dent in the offending car (mostly with my head).

I have used it for mountian biking up at makara mountian bike park heaps and I am yet to break it :facepalm: I now mostly use it for commuting on, with the odd sweet jump and wheelie thrown in for shits n giggles :yes: What I have done to make it a better bike and to make the best out of my energy is:

Clipless pedals ($30)
shoes ($40)
Hydopak ($25)
Speedo etc ($10)
New tyres (Free :bleh:)

All of the above I got from www.torpedo7.com (cept the tyres), some people say they have cheap shit but I have abused the pedals and shoes and they are still going hard!! I remember my first set of clipless pedals cost me over $250!!

The bike it self is old, the front shocks have had it, but that is the only issue, I would rather pay a bit more for a good bike that will take the abuse than having to constantly be replacing parts on a cheap one!!

[Hiflyer]

I'd be interested if its considered a piece of shit by "those in the know"

How come? You looking to sell :D

[marty]

there's gonna be a bidding war on the Surly tomorrow night. That bike will go for over a grand i reckon.

:)

it's up to $530.....