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JacksDad
17th February 2011, 19:16
Finally got some dust on the Wee-Strom so now i need to to clean it. Is Kerosene Ok for cleaning an O-ring chain?
Also has anyone got a LoobMan chain oiler on their bike?
http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/
Lot cheaper than Scott oiler, and pretty simple concept which appeals.

Coldrider
17th February 2011, 19:39
Kero is ok, is not carciogenic when unburnt, does not de-fat the skin, and has a high flashpoint.

I have heard good things about loobmans, thinking of fitting/ making one myself.

HQfiend
17th February 2011, 19:44
Yip got a loobman, stunningly simple in concept and easy to use, not a metered system like a scottoiler but then again the idea is to clean and lubricate the orings not the chain links which are packed with a lifetime of lube at the factory.

Coldrider
17th February 2011, 19:52
loobman can be easily metered/automated with a 12V DC pneumatic valve.

Warr
17th February 2011, 21:40
loobman can be easily metered/automated with a 12V DC pneumatic valve.
"12V DC pneumatic valve" Tell us more ... Pictures please ......
I have a Scott oiler .. Tis peeving me off at present .. After I stop It appears to drain whats in the feed pipe leaving a puddle on the ground :(

Coldrider
17th February 2011, 21:49
"12V DC pneumatic valve" Tell us more ... Pictures please ......
I have a Scott oiler .. Tis peeving me off at present .. After I stop It appears to drain whats in the feed pipe leaving a puddle on the ground :(haven't got any pics but a 'mac' (brand) valve very small to control pilot air will do the trick, can be pulsed by a mechanical or electrical timer, with a flow control dial as well.
Industrial maintenance engineers are good source of second hand parts, if you bought then new you'd soon end up costing as much as a scottoiler.

NordieBoy
17th February 2011, 22:17
"12V DC pneumatic valve" Tell us more ... Pictures please ......
I have a Scott oiler .. Tis peeving me off at present .. After I stop It appears to drain whats in the feed pipe leaving a puddle on the ground :(

You've got an air leak in the tube.

Single or twin injectors?

p.dath
18th February 2011, 06:58
Kero is ok, is not carciogenic when unburnt, does not de-fat the skin, and has a high flashpoint.

+1. Kerosene is a cheap and effective chain cleaner.

oneofsix
18th February 2011, 07:00
+1. Kerosene is a cheap and effective chain cleaner.

+2 which reminds me I must get some more. It also doesn't dry the O rings out.

p.dath
18th February 2011, 07:03
Also has anyone got a LoobMan chain oiler on their bike?
http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/
Lot cheaper than Scott oiler, and pretty simple concept which appeals.

I have to say I'm not much of a fan of automatic chain oiling systems unless you are doing a lot of km's, like touring, a lot.

Using lube from a can is very simple. If you have a centre stand or paddock stand it takes hardly any time. it goes exactly where you put it.

Some of the automatic oilers often leak when the bike is not in use. So you come back to your bike in the garage after a week and find a nice puddle of oil underneath of it.

Oscar
18th February 2011, 09:03
I have to say I'm not much of a fan of automatic chain oiling systems unless you are doing a lot of km's, like touring, a lot.

Using lube from a can is very simple. If you have a centre stand or paddock stand it takes hardly any time. it goes exactly where you put it.

Some of the automatic oilers often leak when the bike is not in use. So you come back to your bike in the garage after a week and find a nice puddle of oil underneath of it.

I agree.
I also worry about the chain beig freshly lubed in dusty conditions.

cooneyr
18th February 2011, 12:46
Had a Scotty on a bike once. It now lives in the shed. My regime is oil when hitting seal for more than a few km otherwise leave dry. Scotty in dusty/muddy conditions generally just meant grinding past or it would block and not work.

george formby
18th February 2011, 13:02
Just cleaned the dust off my chain with a fair drenching of Kerosene, wiped it off with a rag & loobed as normal. Not had any problems to date & the chain is still mint.

I also have a loob man which I only use when touring. The cable ties which sit on the sprocket wear fairly quickly but are easily replaced & the routing of the tube from the reservoir needs to be carefully considered to avoid pinch points & allow an unimpeded flow. The do dacky where the oil comes out needs to be kept clean to stop the oil being wicked away by road crud.

When I use it I just give the bottle an ickle squeeze to avoid over oiling & splashing eveywhere when I stop too put petrol in. A bit of a fine art.

It is a bit of a fiddle compared to a Scott oiler but does the job for a fraction of the price. A god send when doing big miles in the rain & your chain is being stripped.

I learned a long time ago that constant chain maintenance saves a fortune.

Warr
18th February 2011, 18:46
You've got an air leak in the tube.

Single or twin injectors?
Single .. K point taken .. Best plan to replace the tube then !!
It appears to run a little close to the exhaust so will sort that at the same time.

NordieBoy
18th February 2011, 19:12
Single .. K point taken .. Best plan to replace the tube then !!
It appears to run a little close to the exhaust so will sort that at the same time.

I built a twin injector one.
The air would bleed back through the upper one and drain the oil from the lower :facepalm:

Obvious when I thought about it.

timg
18th February 2011, 19:39
I've had one of these for 4 years on my Transalp since new http://www.pro-oiler.com/ I think it's an awesome bit of kit. At the 24000km service I asked the dealer to change the chain and sprockets. He phoned my later in the day and asked if I really wanted them changed as he thought they had plenty of life left in them. As we were heading off on a trip I had them changed any way. 24000km + on an adventure bike is pretty good life IMHO. A fair bit of that has been on gravel or worse - real adventuring. Current chain and sprocket set has 20000km & still fine. Cheers.

Waihou Thumper
20th February 2011, 07:32
Guys, since this is related to chains...
I was cleaning the bike this morning and just as well.....
I noticed this, broken teeth on my rear sprocket. I know they wear but have never seen broken teeth, and it is random, alternate tooth or five along etc....
Only four are broken but it will need replacement, along with chain and front sprocket I suppose.....
Have any of you experienced this on any of your bikes?
Thanks. :)

232652

Eddieb
20th February 2011, 08:12
Guys, since this is related to chains...
I was cleaning the bike this morning and just as well.....
I noticed this, broken teeth on my rear sprocket. I know they wear but have never seen broken teeth, and it is random, alternate tooth or five along etc....
Only four are broken but it will need replacement, along with chain and front sprocket I suppose.....
Have any of you experienced this on any of your bikes?
Thanks. :)

232652

Ihad thathappen on a gpx600 many years ago,the sprocket was shagged and duefor replacement when it did it, that onelooks pretty worn.

Padmei needs tofix his bloodyspacebar.

Owl
20th February 2011, 08:29
Have any of you experienced this on any of your bikes?
Thanks. :)

Not on any of my bikes, but I had a mate with worse on a TT500. I had to go find him and when I did, he told me his gearbox had shit itself.

Turned out the front sprocket had snapped all its teeth. I explained that you actually have to maintain motorcycles:yes: Also the only time I've ever seen a slick nobbly tyre:facepalm:

Waihou Thumper
20th February 2011, 09:14
Ihad thathappen on a gpx600 many years ago,the sprocket was shagged and duefor replacement when it did it, that onelooks pretty worn.

Padmei needs tofix his bloodyspacebar.

Yep, it is knackered, 13000Km on the KTM factory alloy sprocket, I would say that is done and dusted. The chain is okay but binned it too. The front sprocket has squared off, so a kit will be forthcoming. I am going all steel this time, lasts way longer.....:)

Oscar
20th February 2011, 10:21
Yep, it is knackered, 13000Km on the KTM factory alloy sprocket, I would say that is done and dusted. The chain is okay but binned it too. The front sprocket has squared off, so a kit will be forthcoming. I am going all steel this time, lasts way longer.....:)



13000km is pretty impressive for a 54hp single with no cush drive.

Waihou Thumper
20th February 2011, 11:28
13000km is pretty impressive for a 54hp single with no cush drive.

I thought so too, especially since it is the original alloy one too. I had a look at the brakes, original Brembo's as well, the rear is half worn, I will replace anyway whilst the wheel is off. The fronts are barely worn at all. Nice gentle owners and press didn't flog it either.....:shit:

Oscar
20th February 2011, 11:31
I thought so too, especially since it is the original alloy one too. I had a look at the brakes, original Brembo's as well, the rear is half worn, I will replace anyway whilst the wheel is off. The fronts are barely worn at all. Nice gentle owners and press didn't flog it either.....:shit:

I've just been introduced to the Simon Crafar school of never, ever, (well hardly ever) using your back brake... I may never wear out a set of pads again.

warewolf
20th February 2011, 14:56
I noticed this, broken teeth on my rear sprocket. I know they wear but have never seen broken teeth, and it is random, alternate tooth or five along etc....
Only four are broken but it will need replacement, along with chain and front sprocket I suppose.....
Have any of you experienced this on any of your bikes?It was quite normal amongst mates mx bikes when I was at school. Schoolboys didn't quite have enough money for consumables so only replaced sprockets once they lost drive. :shit:

warewolf
20th February 2011, 15:00
13000km is pretty impressive for a 54hp single with no cush drive.F@ck yeah. From an alloy sprocket. That's double what I managed from my cush drive equipped Adventure, and it was only used on roads (sealed or not) and well cared for :gob:

The second one only lasted one 750km day on a part-worn chain. :shutup:

Waihou Thumper
20th February 2011, 15:07
F@ck yeah. From an alloy sprocket. That's double what I managed from my cush drive equipped Adventure, and it was only used on roads (sealed or not) and well cared for :gob:

The second one only lasted one 750km day on a part-worn chain. :shutup:

Yeah, I thought so too. I was all geard up for a ride this morning and saw that, so flagged it. I was reading the ADV thread on chain, sprocket change etc and you had some good comments and guidance. I have ordered a stock 40/16 and 520 X ring chain from the shop. I am replacing all of course and then seeing the sort of distance I will get with steel.
The 625 has no cush drive as you know, I was told to just ride it normally, what seems to wear them down is the down changing on the tar seal, especially when the rear wheel locks or spins. On dirt it is more forgiving of course but can shread tyres and sprockets as a result. More forces and no give, whereas the cush helps absorb....
I was looking around for a rear wheel with cush drive for the sxc for that same reason.

Waihou Thumper
20th February 2011, 15:11
+1. Kerosene is a cheap and effective chain cleaner.

I have heard of the merits of not cleaning the chains but rather making sure they are just lubed? I do clean it, and lube it, but have had conflicting stories from various circles. Constant lube/oiling cleans it anyway, right? :)

p.dath
21st February 2011, 07:42
I have heard of the merits of not cleaning the chains but rather making sure they are just lubed? I do clean it, and lube it, but have had conflicting stories from various circles. Constant lube/oiling cleans it anyway, right? :)

Lubrication is a specialist subject, and I am not a specialist. Some oils do also clean (such as Kerosene) but are not suitable for chain lubrication. Most chain lubricants are very sticky, so I would *guess* that they would not be suitable for cleaning. And constantly applying sticky lubricant may well mean that dust and grit also gets stuck to the chain. I think the intent of chain lubricant is to reduce friction (and therefore wear and lifetime) on the chain - as opposed to trying to keep it clean. Cleaners on the other hand are to, well, clean the chain.
But this is a complex field, and I am not specialist.


All I can tell you is, for road bikes, it is commonly accepted that the chain needs regularly cleaning and lubrication.
It is a commonly held view that the chain should be lubricated about every time you fill up your petrol tank. I clean my chain whenever it stops looking "shiny" and new, maybe every 4th time I fill up my tank with petrol.

mazz1972
21st February 2011, 11:59
Has anyone tried these Tutoro Chain Oilers? Sounds awful fiddly having to turn if on and off all the time.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Chains-sprockets/auction-355110835.htm

NordieBoy
21st February 2011, 14:39
Looks like it scored well mainly because it was cheap.

twisty
22nd February 2011, 08:07
I use chain wax before most rides, I suspect it's not as a good a lubrication as sticky chain oil but at least it doesn't create grinding paste. I give the chain a hosing occasionally if I'm cleaning the bike anyways.

Howie
23rd February 2011, 21:46
Well I just changed the orginal chain and sprockets on my KLR after 31000km, It's had 2 front sprockets in that time, and the orginal back sprocket, and chain. Have used a scott oiler on it since new, and probably 60/40 sealed vs gravel or worse.

I probably could have got a few more thousand km out of it, but was starting to show signs of being near the end of it's life and I have a trip south planned in a couple of days.

Waihou Thumper
26th February 2011, 09:12
I just finished putting on a new chain and front/rear sprocket. That was fun.....:yes:
I wondered why my chain wouldn't feed onto the countershaft sprocket. I had put it on the wrong way:facepalm: A lesson learnt, don't do it at 0600, wake up first...:)
I used the joining link as that is all I have. Do you guys rivet or use joining links?
I have had both, no issues on either. I figured if the manufacturer provides one in the box, it is meant to be used and should be okay....
I hope to see at least 15-20000Km this time as I have steel and a EK Gold X Ring chain, but we will see.
I also put new rear pads on, the original Brembo's - half worn. I put on new red Premiers, they look great, but for how long.

george formby
26th February 2011, 09:23
This thread got me thinking. I am doing a lot more gravel roads now & the chain builds up a hefty coating of grinding paste on a ride. Bearing in mind on an o ring chain the grease sealed on the inside is supposed to do the work is any body using a dry or non adhesive lubricant on their adventure bikes like graphite or silicon?

dino3310
26th February 2011, 09:50
im using the 'Muc-off' chain lube. it goes on wet but dry's very quickly.... no mess. seems to be working well

Tony W
26th February 2011, 18:39
The chain manufacturer's instuctions on my x ring chain packet say " use 80w gear box oil ". 25,000 km and no discernable wear. Trust the packet.

CookMySock
26th February 2011, 18:54
Plastic bottle + bits of nylon 3mm hose = jury-rigged loobman oiler ~~ works okish, certainly miles better than the manual method, and nothing could be worse than the shit in a can that is sold as a useable solution.

warewolf
26th February 2011, 20:02
Lubing road bikes is easy. Any regular application of something of even modest lubricity with anti-rust properties does the job, and you'll get outstanding life from a modern chain. Spray can (chain lube or WD40), "loose" oil, auto- or manual- oiler... whatever.

Dirt & adventure is a whole other kettle of fish. This last chain I've used cooneyr's method of clean/lube with w40/crc556, unless doing extended road miles (ie 100km without dirt) when it gets a squirt with legit chain lube as well. Managed 15,000km from this chain although it's been poked the last thousand or two... which is actually more than acceptable. My satisfaction/value point was 12,000km. That includes quite a few trail rides, cross-country racing, and a generally high proportion of adventure-trail rides... naff all tar touring.

Woodman
26th February 2011, 20:31
I use chanibar lube every now and then, it sorta sticks, but when you go for a ride it cleans the chain somehow.
Between doses of chainbar lube I use crc or wd40. I run a fj series superbike x ring chain which doesn't seem to stretch at all, and its gold coloured:yes:

Occaisionally use brakleen to clean it. Brakleen does not harm rubber brake seals/boots etc so shouldn't harm chain o rings. And the pressure is good.

XF650
22nd March 2011, 09:46
Noticed a tight spot in the chain while adjusting after the DB, however it was more poked than I thought.
Bloody hell 525 chains are expensive.

NordieBoy
22nd March 2011, 12:34
Noticed a tight spot in the chain while adjusting after the DB, however it was more poked than I thought.
Bloody hell 525 chains are expensive.

If you put it up the other way, it's a smiley face and a smiley chain is a happy chain.