Eddieb's DR build thread.

[GSers]

The FCR isn't fitted yet, I'm still running the stock BST40.

Best you stop worrying about fuel economy now then, because as soon as you fit it everytime you twist the throtle you dump a spoon full of petrol down its throat. There goes the fuel economy.

Guys have a good weekend ride safe

GSers

[NordieBoy]

Best you stop worrying about fuel economy now then, because as soon as you fit it everytime you twist the throtle you dump a spoon full of petrol down its throat. There goes the fuel economy.

I'm getting better economy from the FCR than the BST.

[bart]

Good on yeah Bart, actually it sucked all the way across the Gentle Annie. Even though it was all drained out it was pinking across there. Much better once it got a top up of 98 in Taihape.
GSers

Me and Mark both had the same problem after filling at the same gas station (not the filling up with diesel thing). I kept unscrewing the fuel cap, thinking I had an air lock/fuel starvation problem, but it was obviously just crap gas. I wonder how often that happens??? :blink:

[warewolf]

Good analysis Eddie, if a little convoluted. Fuel comparison is simply km between fills, L to fill, $ to fill; yields L/100km and $/100km. Tank size doesn't matter.

Sydney taxis only ever talk about costs in $/100km, so early on that's the unit I adopted. Data gets punched in to a spreadsheet with the calculations already in it, I just record date, odo, and cost; and then point it at the last row with the same item (eg rear tyre, or fuel). The spreadsheet then shows things like distance and $/100km for that item. Too easy, and beats the hell out of anecdotal comparisons and fishing tales.

Another way to look at it: 95 is almost always 5c dearer (although now we are seeing 7-8c often) so at roughly 200cpL the price difference for 95 is 2.5% increase. So if your mileage improves by > 2.5% then 95 is worth it.

[Woodman]

I always go for higher octane when available. I don't think 98 has much advantage over 95 unless tuned for it. 91 is crap. I've owned a few cars that wouldn't run well on 91.

The only thing I run on 91 is wifey's car :innocent: It's modern and should handle it.

In saying that, the DR is so lowly tuned it could probably run on donkey piss. :shutup:

For a non DR perspective.

My non DR gets better kilometreage on 95, but the bottom end is terrible. On 91 the bottom end is great and the motor runs a lot nicer with a broader spread of power meaning I can generally run a gear higher on my non DR.

be careful with cars on 91 bart, my old Focuses only ran on 95 cos they had a 12.5 to 1 compression ratio. If you run these sort of motors on 91 the knock sensors take over and retard things to buggery.

[warewolf]

95 burns slower, that's one of the ways it increases knock resistance (same effect as retarding the ignition). You may find that a bike built for 91 prefers the faster burning fuel at lower speeds, probably because it has the timing set for it.

Dunno 'bout your non-DR, my non-DR runs 11.5:1 compression ratio and demands 95. The DR is only 9.5:1 or something, a shitload less.

My Triumph had 10.6:1 CR and was spec'd for 95 RON. It'd run like pigs arse on 91, bl00dy appalling. Later, even with high-comp pistons and a head job pushing the CR to nearly 14:1, there wasn't really any difference between 95 and 98. But it did have wicked wild cams in it: high lift, long duration and lots of overlap. So the effective dynamic CR was less than the mathematical 14. I ran it on 98 whenever I could "just in case", but I never ever noticed or measured any difference.

[bart]

be careful with cars on 91 bart, my old Focuses only ran on 95 cos they had a 12.5 to 1 compression ratio. If you run these sort of motors on 91 the knock sensors take over and retard things to buggery.

I think it depends on the vehicle. I've had a number of 4 cylinder and V8's that just wouldn't handle 91. They start pinking and missing and running like a bag of arseholes. The Territory (xr6 motor) seems to be fine. It's probably tuned to that ethanol crap they use in Aus.

As for the DR....I can't say I've noticed any difference in power between 91, 95, or 98. I think it's just the economy that changes.

:Offtopic: A workmate of mine has a 325kw turbo XR6 that's tuned to 98. When the local BP changed back to 95, he had to travel about 60km to the next BP just to fuel up. That seems crazy to me, but that's the price you pay for horsepower. :blink:

[dino3310]

two stroke, 91, 95, 98, the XRs takes it all :laugh:
what happened to the DR build thread:corn:

[JATZ]

Following extensive reearch on fuel, and octane rating with the DR 750, DR350, DR250 and Tenere I have come to the conclusion that........

Any old shit will do :shit: so long as it gets you home :yes:

But Werewolf was right about the Triumph,, it did run best on 95

[Eddieb]

Good analysis Eddie, if a little convoluted. Fuel comparison is simply km between fills, L to fill, $ to fill; yields L/100km and $/100km. Tank size doesn't matter.

Agreed with the tank size in the bigger picture, including it in this thread gives a point of reference that most DR riders on here can immediately relate to.


As for the DR....I can't say I've noticed any difference in power between 91, 95, or 98. I think it's just the economy that changes.

I've just put a tank of 95 in the 520i and the difference has surprised me. The difference in smoothness and mid range response running 95 is considerable. I haven't done enough km's to comment on any difference in economy in the car yet.


two stroke, 91, 95, 98, the XRs takes it all :laugh:
what happened to the DR build thread:corn:

Normal service was supposed to resume today but didn't happen. Hopefully tomorrow. I've got an oil and filter, bashplate, 2 tyres and an FCR carb still to go on. The FCR I still need to file down some edges on the intake before it's ready to fit

[bart]

I've just put a tank of 95 in the 520i and the difference has surprised me. The difference in smoothness and mid range response running 95 is considerable. I haven't done enough km's to comment on any difference in economy in the car yet.


Old beemers hate 91 also. Well, my 325i did anyway.

[marks]

my 325i did anyway.

poofter 

[bart]

poofter 

:motu:...:bleh:

What about those DR's anyway....

[Box'a'bits]

Old beemers hate 91 also. Well, my 325i did anyway.
Nah....they don't. :yes: Just about run on weasel piss. Unless there's an RS in their alphabet soup

[Eddieb]

So the DR has had an oil & filter change today, a very black and thin 2 litres of oil was removed and replaced with nice fresh stuff.

While I was in there a magnetic sump plug also went in so next time I can see if anythings coming adrift.

Fitting the bash plate struck a snag in that the plate is fouling on the end of the engine mounting bolt on the right hand side. Nothing spacing the opposite side of the bolt out with a few washers won't fix but I don't have the right washers here today.

Speaking of which, does that front lower engine mount have any washers on either end as stock? mine doesn't have any at all. The bash plate I just removed bolted on there so by default acted as a washer on each end.

[Eddieb]

Just done my first solo tyre change on the DR, a new knobbly now adorns the front wheel. Thanks Jatz for the training session when I was in Mot, some of it must have rubbed off.

A question for the experts though, the tyre looks like it is seated on the rim properly but the bead didn't 'pop'. I took it down to the garage and pumped it up to 55psi but still no pop, I wasn't game to go any higher. If it hasn't popped does it mean it's still not seated properly?

[dino3310]

i change my front twice a week and ive never poped a bead in, i change it pump it up and ride:woohoo: never had any probs

[bart]

I've hardly ever heard them 'pop'. I think that's more with tubeless tyres, which have a tighter bead.

Now, tell us how you get on changing the back tyre? :shutup:

[Aslan]

I've hardly ever heard them 'pop'. I think that's more with tubeless tyres, which have a tighter bead.

Now, tell us how you get on changing the back tyre? :shutup:

What Bart & Dino said Eddie - now the rear tyre that's a different story - PM me if you want an intro to a good mechanic who among other things I use to change my tyres - cheers S

[Eddieb]

I've hardly ever heard them 'pop'. I think that's more with tubeless tyres, which have a tighter bead.

Now, tell us how you get on changing the back tyre? :shutup:

I haven't decided if I have enough time and swear words in my vocabulary to attempt a rear tyre change on my own yet. I have decided I need another tyre lever though, having a 3rd would make things a little easier.

[junkmanjoe]

dr rear rim is piece off piss compared to the ktm rear rim...

[bart]

dr rear rim is piece off piss compared to the ktm rear rim...

I find that hard to believe. Aren't the KTM's 18 inch?

Oh, you mean one of these....

237346

[Eddieb]

237345

The mighty cheap DR with it's new T63 front and fancy B & B bashplate. Sophie was helping but doesn't like her photo being taken.

[JATZ]

Just done my first solo tyre change on the DR, a new knobbly now adorns the front wheel. Thanks Jatz for the training session when I was in Mot, some of it must have rubbed off.

A question for the experts though, the tyre looks like it is seated on the rim properly but the bead didn't 'pop'. I took it down to the garage and pumped it up to 55psi but still no pop, I wasn't game to go any higher. If it hasn't popped does it mean it's still not seated properly?

Glad we could be of assistance :yes: Now do the rear, and I reakon you'll need at least 2 rimlocks :shit:
The rear should go pop I think. I have been known to put around 90 psi in a tyre to "pop" the bead

[Gravel Man]

I find the rear tyre easy as to change on the 990, but the rear on a dr 650 is a real slag to break the bead. Wouldn't like to try it in the side of the road.

Cheers G.M.

[pete376403]

Riding with a flat tyre is a good way to break the bead as long as you don't plan on re-using the tube.
Big River to Reefton with a flat rear tyre on the KLR. Handling got a bit weird over about 40km/hr. Back at Reefton, once the wheel was out the tyre came off the rime without levers or other tools (no rim locks). Tube was non-existant, tyre was reuseable

[Eddieb]

Glad we could be of assistance :yes: Now do the rear, and I reakon you'll need at least 2 rimlocks :shit:
The rear should go pop I think. I have been known to put around 90 psi in a tyre to "pop" the bead


:) Has Ally ever got her rimlock back in?

[michael e]

Just done my first solo tyre change on the DR, a new knobbly now adorns the front wheel. Thanks Jatz for the training session when I was in Mot, some of it must have rubbed off.

A question for the experts though, the tyre looks like it is seated on the rim properly but the bead didn't 'pop'. I took it down to the garage and pumped it up to 55psi but still no pop, I wasn't game to go any higher. If it hasn't popped does it mean it's still not seated properly?

hi eddie.....ya soft cock,lol........i had 2 pump my rear tyre up to 80psi the last time i changed the 950's 1:shit:

[cooneyr]

I find the rear tyre easy as to change on the 990, but the rear on a dr 650 is a real slag to break the bead. Wouldn't like to try it in the side of the road.

Cheers G.M.

OT - KTM has a "build in" bead breaker. Check this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzgHVjXZwoM) out. Piece of piss. Had to use this technique last December in the hills and have used it in the shed multiple times. Makes the KTM easier than the DR650. Check it out.

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

Riding with a flat tyre is a good way to break the bead as long as you don't plan on re-using the tube.
Big River to Reefton with a flat rear tyre on the KLR. Handling got a bit weird over about 40km/hr. Back at Reefton, once the wheel was out the tyre came off the rime without levers or other tools (no rim locks). Tube was non-existant, tyre was reuseable

30km with a flat rear on the DR. All the way from up Ben Nevis back to Nelson at about 40-50kph.

Took 30mins to break the bead. Patched the tube and away.

[pete376403]

You had rim locks?
When I went through a creek crossings the wheel spun in the tyre for a bit, which tore the valve core out. Tube exited shortly after.

[NordieBoy]

You had rim locks?
When I went through a creek crossings the wheel spun in the tyre for a bit, which tore the valve core out. Tube exited shortly after.

No rim locks.
Shinko SR244 tyre and rode it all the way home standing, leaning over the front.

[JATZ]

:) Has Ally ever got her rimlock back in?

No ! but it should go back in :yes: she's worse than me at checking pressures and has been known to run single digit pressure on the road :blink:


Riding with a flat tyre is a good way to break the bead as long as you don't plan on re-using the tube.
Big River to Reefton with a flat rear tyre on the KLR. Handling got a bit weird over about 40km/hr. Back at Reefton, once the wheel was out the tyre came off the rime without levers or other tools (no rim locks). Tube was non-existant, tyre was reuseable


30km with a flat rear on the DR. All the way from up Ben Nevis back to Nelson at about 40-50kph.

Took 30mins to break the bead. Patched the tube and away.

While we're on the subject.....
I once rode the Big from Boatmans (just north of Reefton) into Reefton on a flat E-08Still required the use of the bead breaker in the garage workshop :shit: to get it off and they sold me a new tube :facepalm:
Sorry for the hijack EddieB, you can continue with your build thread now

[5150]

Speaking of tires. I bought a hand pump at the local motorcycle dealer. Mainly to add to my toolkit as you never know when one is needed during an adv ride. But when I opened the packaging and read the instructions and specs, it states that it is rated up to 16psi. That is bit piss poor considering I want to pump the front up to 20 or more psi and never mind the rear tire. I was shocked :gob::facepalm:
Now the tight fisted wnkers won't take it back because it has been opened.

[Eddieb]

Speaking of tires. I bought a hand pump at the local motorcycle dealer. Mainly to add to my toolkit as you never know when one is needed durring a adv ride. But when I opened the packaging and read the instructions and specs, it states that it is rated up to 16psi. That is bit piss poor considering I want to pump the front up to 20 or more psi and never mind the rear tire. I was shocked :gob::facepalm:
Now the tight fisted wnkers won't take it back because it has been opened.

Take it back and tell them it's not fit for purpose under the consumer guarantee act.

[Box'a'bits]

I bought a hand pump at the local motorcycle dealer. But when I opened the packaging and read the instructions and specs, it states that it is rated up to 16psi. Now the tight fisted wnkers won't take it back because it has been opened.
Before you take it back re read the outside packaging. Was it a tyre pump or for suspension. If a tyre pump then, yes, consumer gtees act should see you right.

[5150]

Before you take it back re read the outside packaging. Was it a tyre pump or for suspension. If a tyre pump then, yes, consumer gtees act should see you right.

Definately rating UP TO 16 Psi. It was sold to me at the motorcycle shop and I explained prior what I wanted and why. Nothing on the outside of packaging, not untill you tear open the thing and there are instructions inside. The funny thing is that there is a pressure gauge attached to the pump and reads up to something like 40psi. Yet the packaging states it is only rated to 16PsI. Just curious to know what happens if I keep pumping past the 16PSI............:confused:

[NordieBoy]

Just curious to know what happens if I keep pumping past the 16PSI............:confused:

17psi maybe?

You could fart more than 16psi...

[warewolf]

Definately rating UP TO 16 Psi. It was sold to me at the motorcycle shop and I explained prior what I wanted and why. Nothing on the outside of packaging, not untill you tear open the thing and there are instructions inside. They're fools if they don't backpedal on this one.

They could possibly refuse to take it back on legal grounds... and you could refuse to keep quiet about who the shonky bastards are.

[Woodman]

They should just take it back, its just not worth the fight.

On the bright side, 16psi is better than no psi.

[Crim]

Just curious to know what happens if I keep pumping past the 16PSI............

17psi maybe?

With maths like that, Fran, I reckon you could work at Stats

[Eddieb]

I shoehorned a 140 section E-09 onto the DR this weekend, check out that bad boy!

Also I filed down the lip on the FCR carb and fitted the airbox adapter, i think it's ready to fit now.

[NordieBoy]

I run a 120 section Shinko 705. Felt like it pushed through the gravel well. Reluctant to run a wider one even if it's mainly sykologikul.

[bart]

I find narrow is better, as they dig through the gravel, instead of floating on top. Narrow tyres wear pathetically fast though. I've been running 110's. :facepalm:

[gav24]

Hey, saw the DR outside wellington M/C's yesterday.
Looking good with that rear tyre on! (would be good on the beach - hint hint!:yes:)
Didnt notice if the carb was fitted or not...?
Looks good though:scooter:

[Eddieb]

Hey, saw the DR outside wellington M/C's yesterday.
Looking good with that rear tyre on! (would be good on the beach - hint hint!:yes:)
Didnt notice if the carb was fitted or not...?
Looks good though:scooter:

:) Beach racing is tempting one day but I might be heading North that weekend.

The carb isn't fitted yet, I didn't want to start on it before the Naki ride in case I couldn't get it sorted in time.

She got shiny new front brake pads last night too.

[Eddieb]

I went into the Suzuki dealer today to price up a few bits after the weekends escapades on the Naki Nutters Ride.

Handlebar riser bolt - no info as Suzuki apparently don't have any in stock
Handlebars - $234, ouch
Left rear indicator - $134, ouch!

Phil, What model are those Yamaha indicators off? I want to get some of them. Even if I only do the rear end at this stage.

I might have to surf Trade me for some suitable 22mm bars.

[NordieBoy]

Got some original bar mount bolts here.

I made some longer ones. Bung a bolt in a drill and hold it up to the grinder...

[Crim]

Left rear indicator - $134, ouch!


Saw these in SCA t'other day

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Motorcycle-Indicators-21W-Halogen.aspx?pid=134608#Description

Be cheaper to get two and then replace cheaply as and when needed

[Crim]

why didn't you use your wolfman luggage in the weekend, mate?

[Eddieb]

Saw these in SCA t'other day

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Motorcycle-Indicators-21W-Halogen.aspx?pid=134608#Description

Be cheaper to get two and then replace cheaply as and when needed

I believe the Yamaha ones Phil used are about $25 each and have bendy stalks. Otherwise the Touratech ones I used on the GS were $25Aus and were virtually identical.

[Eddieb]

why didn't you use your wolfman luggage in the weekend, mate?

I figured I'd be on and off quite a few times and by the end of things I'd be tired of climbing over them. Watching others I think it was a wise move.

[Eddieb]

I ordered some replacement indicators last night.

Suzuki NZ was quoting $133 for one factory replacement which I thought was a bit rich so I've got a full set of 4 Touratech bendy stalk ones on the way for $140NZ including delivery from Australia.

I could have gone the Yamaha route as Phil has done as they are essentially the same unit but the mounting is slightly different and the Touratech ones should bolt straight one where the Yamaha ones need some garage skills to make new brackets.

http://www.touratech.com.au/home/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/01-040-0204-01.jpg

[XF650]

Bugger, just seen this Eddie.
Rural dealers take heaps of blinkers & mirrors off the bikes they prep for farm use.

[NordieBoy]

Bugger, just seen this Eddie.
Rural dealers take heaps of blinkers & mirrors off the bikes they prep for farm use.

So there's lots of chrome GN125 mirrors available :woohoo:

[marks]

I see that you are bidding on that bike on Tardme Eddie

Now Andy and I will have to decide which of us will push the bidding up a little just to piss you off...

[Eddieb]

I see that you are bidding on that bike on Tardme Eddie

Now Andy and I will have to decide which of us will push the bidding up a little just to piss you off...

You'll never get a pizza invite again....

[Crim]

scheeze Eddie how many DRs does one bloke need?

[Eddieb]

scheeze Eddie how many DRs does one bloke need?

Obviously only one, the bidding on this one was richer than my wallet.

[pampa]

this type of indicators are far more resilient to unplanned landing

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/images/products/21.2153.jpg

u can find them for instance on http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/380-lights_and_indicators/2208-drc_motoled_flashers.aspx maybe not cheap but long lasting ... flat and led combination

[Hugo Nougo]

Country shops that sell farm bikes definitely the cheapest option. Sargents in Carterton have got a box of new indicators in the showroom, taken from farm bikes, give Jason a ring I think he's only after a donation and shipping.

[Eddieb]

I'm considering going one tooth smaller on the front sprocket, where is the best place to source a 14 tooth front sprocket from and how much are they?

[NordieBoy]

I'm considering going one tooth smaller on the front sprocket, where is the best place to source a 14 tooth front sprocket from and how much are they?

Any bike shop should be able to get a 14t JT sprocket for it. About $30-40

[bart]

I'm considering going one tooth smaller on the front sprocket, where is the best place to source a 14 tooth front sprocket from and how much are they?

14 tooth livens things up quite a bit. Gets a bit revvy on the road, but if you're just sitting on 100, it's fine. I paid about $36 for my last 14.

I might slip the 15 back on for the MMMMM. Lots of road miles.

[NordieBoy]

14 tooth livens things up quite a bit. Gets a bit revvy on the road, but if you're just sitting on 100, it's fine. I paid about $36 for my last 14.

I might slip the 15 back on for the MMMMM. Lots of road miles.

14/41 will still pull 176kph on the limiter...

110kph at 4950rpm.

[Eddieb]

14/41 will still pull 176kph on the limiter...

110kph at 4950rpm.

Not that I would ever do 176kph. According to http://www.gearingcommander.com/ going from the 15 to 14 tooth front makes about 300rpm difference at 100km/h in 5th gear.

[JATZ]

FWIW I ran a 15/41 setup on Queens B/day and carried a 13, only took a couple of minutes to swap them over and made a big difference. The 350 has a circlip holding on the sproket, I'm not sure what the system is on the 650, also, there wasn't to much adjustment left on the chain though

[NordieBoy]

Not that I would ever do 176kph. According to http://www.gearingcommander.com/ going from the 15 to 14 tooth front makes about 300rpm difference at 100km/h in 5th gear.

According to the Nordie Gearing Commander...

5th 4th 3rd 2nd 1st
Front Rear Rpm Kph Kph Kph Kph Kph
14 41 4500 100 83 67 51 34
14 41 4950 110 91 73 56 38
14 41 7800 173 143 116 88 59

15 41 4200 100 83 67 51 34
15 41 4600 110 90 73 56 37
15 41 7800 186 153 124 94 64

[Woodman]

Wouldn't you run out of puff before you got to 186km/h?

The only bonus I find with going to a 14 on mine (KLR) is that it is easier going down steep gnarly hills. Yeah like Bart says it livens things up a bit but the trade off for the revvy road ride isn't worth it.

[NordieBoy]

Yep. It wouldn't actually get to that speed.

At 110kph it's not even near max torque. Only pootling along at just under 5,000rpm.

[Eddieb]

Wouldn't you run out of puff before you got to 186km/h?

The only bonus I find with going to a 14 on mine (KLR) is that it is easier going down steep gnarly hills. Yeah like Bart says it livens things up a bit but the trade off for the revvy road ride isn't worth it.

On the DR 1st is a bit tall for tighter stuff, plus I commute daily in rush hour Wellington traffic and it might be a bit nicer there.

[Eddieb]

Ordered my 14 tooth sprocket today, should be here tomorrow.

[Magnum Noel]

Ordered my 14 tooth sprocket today, should be here tomorrow.

Ordered from where Eddie and how much? I need answers
:lol:

[Eddieb]

Ordered from where Eddie and how much? I need answers
:lol:

Wellington Motorcycles. $32

[Aslan]

Wellington Motorcycles. $32

Hi - don't mean to rain on your parade Eddie or other fans of the 14t front - I changed my 15t front to a 14t when my DR was near new and found the wear on the smaller sprocket excessive so have run stock 15/43 combination since - got 29000km from the original chain on this basis albeit with a Scott Oiler

[Eddieb]

Hi - don't mean to rain on your parade Eddie or other fans of the 14t front - I changed my 15t front to a 14t when my DR was near new and found the wear on the smaller sprocket excessive so have run stock 15/43 combination since - got 29000km from the original chain on this basis albeit with a Scott Oiler

Thanks Stephen, my current chain is about half worn so I'm not too concerned at this stage but it's a good point to think about.

[Eddieb]

Thanks Stephen, my current chain is about half worn so I'm not too concerned at this stage but it's a good point to think about.

I installed the 14 tooth sprocket this afternoon and took the bike for a quick spin up some local streets.

It's not a huge difference in performance or response at surburban speed limits but I live on a pretty decent hill and it definately didn't chug as much at the lower speeds.

[NordieBoy]

Hi - don't mean to rain on your parade Eddie or other fans of the 14t front - I changed my 15t front to a 14t when my DR was near new and found the wear on the smaller sprocket excessive so have run stock 15/43 combination since - got 29000km from the original chain on this basis albeit with a Scott Oiler

Stock is 15/41.

15/43 is fractionally higher geared than 14/41 but means it's really easy to go to 14/43 when you need to.

I run 14/46 in the fun stuff and 16/46 everywhere else which is the same as 15/43.

[Crim]

I run 14/46 in the fun stuff and 16/46 everywhere else which is the same as 15/43.

Not one to be pedantic - but I have it on good authority 1. that you run a 13 tooth 'all business' one - now either you or Padmei can't count??? :scratch:

Bibliography

1. World famous motorcycling guru / writer Craig Leth in his article, for Kiwibiker July 2011, entitled Adventure biking does not get any better than this stated "Nordie quickly changed his front 16 tooth highway sprocket to a 13 tooth 'all business' one on his DR650 while I sat and watched, confident in the fat power of the mighty KLR650 to pull me up any steep pitches

I remembered the quote cos the last bit of it regarding the fat power of the mighty KLR struck a chord :killingme

[Woodman]

Did i read somewhere that to reduce sprocket and chain wear then you should run sprockets with an odd numer of teeth. e.g. 15/43=good. 16/44=bad.

[NordieBoy]

Not one to be pedantic - but I have it on good authority 1. that you run a 13 tooth 'all business' one - now either you or Padmei can't count??? :scratch:

Bibliography

1. World famous motorcycling guru / writer Craig Leth in his article, for Kiwibiker July 2011, entitled Adventure biking does not get any better than this stated "Nordie quickly changed his front 16 tooth highway sprocket to a 13 tooth 'all business' one on his DR650 while I sat and watched, confident in the fat power of the mighty KLR650 to pull me up any steep pitches

I remembered the quote cos the last bit of it regarding the fat power of the mighty KLR struck a chord :killingme

I've never run a 13 but don't tell Padmei. You know how these writers can get.

[NordieBoy]

Did i read somewhere that to reduce sprocket and chain wear then you should run sprockets with an odd numer of teeth. e.g. 15/43=good. 16/44=bad.

Specially when combined with a chain length that lets sprocket teeth hit the same links over and over.

Eg. 12t front and 120 link chain. 14/42 sprockets etc.

But not a huge issue...

[bart]

Did i read somewhere that to reduce sprocket and chain wear then you should run sprockets with an odd numer of teeth. e.g. 15/43=good. 16/44=bad.

It's all true....but who cares. The easiest way to change performance on a chain drive motorcycle is to change sprockets. If you find your sweet spot, who cares about sacrificing a couple of thou on a front sprocket. It might cost you $5 per 1000km. :confused:

Work out your fuel and tyre cost. :weep:

[Night Falcon]

It's all true....but who cares. The easiest way to change performance on a chain drive motorcycle is to change sprockets. If you find your sweet spot, who cares about sacrificing a couple of thou on a front sprocket. It might cost you $5 per 1000km. :confused:

Work out your fuel and tyre cost. :weep:

I have to admit when it comes to my bike, I will not sacrifice running cost over performance and setup:mad: (the only exception to this is for tyres, maintenace costs and fuel mileage):nya:

[Phreaky Phil]

Some progress on the muffler / midpipe. I just have to get the top bracket on the midpipe welded on and thats finished and spin up a spacer for the muffler bracket. This is your muffler on the bike Eddie

[Eddieb]

Some progress on the muffler / midpipe. I just have to get the top bracket on the midpipe welded on and thats finished and spin up a spacer for the muffler bracket. This is your muffler on the bike Eddie

Cool!

I bolted some more bling on the DR today, I picked up a front guard for cheap. It's makes the bike look a bit different

241112 241113

[Magnum Noel]

[QUOTE=Eddieb;1130090014]Cool!

I bolted some more bling on the DR today, I picked up a front guard for cheap. It's makes the bike look a bit different

When will it end Eddie? How much difference did that 14 tooth sprocket make?

[Crim]

Good stuff Eddie, keep going mate, another 10k or so bling and you've got a KLR! :killingme

[Eddieb]

When will it end Eddie? How much difference did that 14 tooth sprocket make?

:) Will it ever end?

I wasn't in the market for a new guard but it was offered spur of the moment at a price that couldn't be refused so what the hell.

Not completely sure on the 14 tooth yet as I've only gone up Dowse and back in the rain. It didn't chug as easily at lower revs in the tighter slower corners though. I'm expecting it may be more noticable response wise in the mid range.

[Eddieb]

Good stuff Eddie, keep going mate, another 10k or so bling and you've got a KLR! :killingme

Mate, this DR is so cheap it makes a KLR seem expensive.

It still only owes me $3500, even with all the crap I've bolted on and the consumable stuff like front and rear tyres, brake pads, oil & filter etc I've bought.

[NordieBoy]

Cool!

I bolted some more bling on the DR today, I picked up a front guard for cheap. It's makes the bike look a bit different

You just might notice more mud on the engine and your face...

:D

I've got a faded black one on the Nordie.

[Eddieb]

You just might notice more mud on the engine and your face...

:D

I've got a faded black one on the Nordie.

on the motor maybe, I don't ride fast enough to get it on my face :) and if it does its only 2 minutes to change it back and I got it at a price that means it should be easy enough to shift on.

[Eddieb]

I have a Scottoiler I want to fit to the DR, it's the small tube shaped one like this.

241279

Can any of you DR owners with Scottoilers please post pics of your installation? particularly I'm interested in location and mounting of the oiler unit itself, and routing and location of the outlet.

For the vacuum line I assume you just T that off the stock carb's vacuum line, if you have the FCR carb & IMS tank fitted where you no longer have a vacuum line where do you run the Scottoiler vacuum from?

[NordieBoy]

I have a Scottoiler I want to fit to the DR, it's the small tube shaped one like this.

Can any of you DR owners with Scottoilers please post pics of your installation? particularly I'm interested in location and mounting of the oiler unit itself, and routing and location of the outlet.
http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20070421%20ScottOilering/slides/20070421-165813.jpg


For the vacuum line I assume you just T that off the stock carb's vacuum line, if you have the FCR carb & IMS tank fitted where you no longer have a vacuum line where do you run the Scottoiler vacuum from?

You need to go to MX Rob's site and see how he drills a hole, taps a thread and installs a vacuum take off.

[Phreaky Phil]

Some progress on the muffler / midpipe. I just have to get the top bracket on the midpipe welded on and thats finished and spin up a spacer for the muffler bracket. This is your muffler on the bike EddieWelding completed tonight. Just got to spin up a spacer. The original ali bracket is still on the bike. Do you have any gear to cut it off and file the welds ?
Sounds good !!

[Eddieb]

Welding completed tonight. Just got to spin up a spacer. The original ali bracket is still on the bike. Do you have any gear to cut it off and file the welds ?
Sounds good !!

Unfortunately not, my garage is pretty sparse when it comes to proper workshop gear.

[Eddieb]

You need to go to MX Rob's site and see how he drills a hole, taps a thread and installs a vacuum take off.

Does the line run along the underside of the swingarm? Do you have any pics of how it's routed around the chain and onto the swingarm?

[NordieBoy]

Does the line run along the underside of the swingarm? Do you have any pics of how it's routed around the chain and onto the swingarm?

Over the top of the chain by the shock, loosly down to underside of swingarm to allow for swingarm movement, along bottom of swingarm, along outside edge of lower chain guide, pointing down slightly and in toward the outside of the sprocket.

Post a pic when its done and I'll tell you what you've done wrong and laugh and point...

:D

[Crim]

their website is great

http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/installation-guides.html

model specific guides hints and the such :banana:

[Eddieb]

their website is great

http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/installation-guides.html

model specific guides hints and the such :banana:

Cheers Crim, I did actually go there and put DR650 into their search and got no results. Obviously I didn't look hard enough.

[Phreaky Phil]

Done :woohoo:

[Pikey]

Nice can you take orders for the mid pipe? :2thumbsup

[Eddieb]

mmm, the courier bought me goodies yesterday

241971

I weighed it tonight so that after I pull the stock one off I can see what difference there is.
241972

[Eddieb]

So I weighed the stock pipe today, 5.5kg. That means there's a small weight saving between the stock and TL1000 pipes ~.8/kg. Not a huge number but thats still about 15%.

242044

Here's the new pipe fitted, it pretty much bolted straight up though I had to shave one side of the pipe hanger bracket to fit my luggage racks around it.

242045 242041

And here's just some DR/scenery porn

242043 242042

[Phreaky Phil]

:niceone: You reckon there's any power difference. I thought it felt a bit peppier of the bottom. I actually pulled a couple of wheelies In 1st gear which I hadn't done with the stock muffler on. Keep your eye out for one of the Titanium GSXR mufflers. They're lighter and will bolt straight on to the midpipe

[Eddieb]

:niceone: You reckon there's any power difference. I thought it felt a bit peppier of the bottom. I actually pulled a couple of wheelies In 1st gear which I hadn't done with the stock muffler on. Keep your eye out for one of the Titanium GSXR mufflers. They're lighter and will bolt straight on to the midpipe

I think the bottom end is slightly stronger and a little more responsive, if you end up in the wrong gear at really low revs it chugs off easier than it did with the stock pipe, mid range and top end I can't notice a difference really. You run much lower gearing than me also so it would wheelie easier, with a 14/41 gearing, snorkel removed and otherwise stock it almost lifted the front in 1st with no clutch.

It sounds way better than my stock one with the holes drilled in it though, at idle really quiet and quite restrained while riding but with a nice little burble on deceleration, at least thats how it sounds when riding it, I don't know if it sounds quieter or louder to an observer or vehicles behind me.

Speaking of gearing, I've gone back to the 15 tooth front tonight, I do 2 motorway trips a day and found the 14 made the bike buzzy.

Also today, I stopped at the garage to check the tyres and 15 minutes after that the rear rim was on the deck. Something happened while checking the pressures that upset the rear valve and it wouldn't hold pressure anymore. I stole a valve out of a spare tube and had the take the tyre back to the garage in the car to pump it up. It sems to be holding pressure ok again now. never had that happen before.

[NordieBoy]

Keep your eye out for one of the Titanium GSXR mufflers. They're lighter and will bolt straight on to the midpipe

Yep. The X04f0X pipe is 2.4kg.

[Pikey]

Where did you get the Muffler bracket from?

[Eddieb]

Where did you get the Muffler bracket from?

Phreaky Phil's Awesome Engineering INC.

[Magnum Noel]

I think the bottom wend is slightly stronger and a little more responsive, if you end up at really low revs in the wrong gear it chugs off easier than it did with the stock pipe, mid range and topend I can't notice a difference really. You run much lower gearing than me also. With a 14/41 gearing, snorkel removed and otherwise stock it almost lifted the front in 1st with no clutch.

It sounds way better than my stock one with the holes drilled in it though, at idle really quiet and quite restrained while riding but with a nice little burble on deceleration, at least thats how it sounds when riding it, I don't know if it sounds quieter or louder to an observer or vehicles behind me.

Speaking of gearing, I've gone back to the 15 front tonight, I do 2 motorway trips a day and found the 14 made the bike buzzy.

Also today, I stopped at the garage to check the tyres and 15 minutes after that the rear rim was on the deck. Something happened while checking the pressures that upset the rear valve and it wouldn't hold pressure anymore. I stole a valve out of a spare tube and had the take the tyre back to the garage in the car to pump it up. It sems to be holding pressure ok again now. never had that happen before.
ahhh

So it was you thundering up and down the Dowse today!

[Eddieb]

ahhh

So it was you thundering up and down the Dowse today!

It wouldn't have been me if it was above my place, I dropped straight down to the motorway and up Belmont.

[Eddieb]

After drooling over various blown RM's and other machinery on Trade Me as suspension donors I've decided I'm going to stick with the stock forks at the moment as I don't think I need to height increase that a trail bike fork transplant gives, and all the bother of having to figure out how to mount the ignition etc. I'm just not an agressive enough rider to need the extra height and it would be a hindrance 99.9% of the time, and I just have too many other projects and don't need another one.

So for the stock forks the best bang for buck seems to be the Intiminators or however they are spelt. Procycle seem to do the best pricing I have seen, $100US cheaper than the manufacturer even which I can't figure out.

So if anyone is putting an Procycle order in let me know.

If anyone had a cheap full KLX250 front end lying around I'd almost be tempted, there was a DR posted up recently with those and they looked good and I think the same height as stock.

[Magnum Noel]

Saw your bike on tele the other night. Is that the first time its been on tele?

[Eddieb]

Saw your bike on tele the other night. Is that the first time its been on tele?

My bike? Where did you see that? What was I doing on it?

[Magnum Noel]

My bike? Where did you see that? What was I doing on it?

TV3 talking about how m/clists would still be p---ed off because ACC levies hadn't been reduced. Was outside Wgtn M/C Centre.
They were correct. I write a letter every rego time just let them know that I'm not happy and how unjust their levies are.:violin:

[Eddieb]

TV3 talking about how m/clists would still be p---ed off because ACC levies hadn't been reduced. Was outside Wgtn M/C Centre.
They were correct. I write a letter every rego time just let them know that I'm not happy and how unjust their levies are.:violin:

Ok, I'm trying to find it on TV3's on demand but not having any luck.

[Eddieb]

I found it, from 2:10.

http://www.3news.co.nz/Levy-reduction-proof-ACC-crisis-was-manufactured--Labour/tabid/370/articleID/218385/Default.aspx

[dino3310]

I found it, from 2:10.

http://www.3news.co.nz/Levy-reduction-proof-ACC-crisis-was-manufactured--Labour/tabid/370/articleID/218385/Default.aspx

just watched it and well .......... F@#K

[5150]

Like I said on FB. They showed your bike, to relay a message that it's bikes like yours that keep our levies up :innocent::facepalm:

[Eddieb]

Well I've tried to replace the rear sprocket carrier bearing tonight and failed miserably, I can't even get the dust seal off in front of the bearing. I even broke a screwdriver trying to get the damn thing off.

Looks like it's the train for me tomorrow while I take it into the shop.

[clint640]

Well I've tried to replace the rear sprocket carrier bearing tonight and failed miserably, I can't even get the dust seal off in front of the bearing. I even broke a screwdriver trying to get the damn thing off.

Looks like it's the train for me tomorrow while I take it into the shop.

Heat the bastard up. Use a heat gun or stick it in the oven if there aren't any other seals etc in there you want to keep. Alu expands much more than steel when heated.

Cheers
Clint

[Eddieb]

Thanks Clint, I'd had my ex BMW riders hairdryer on it and it was fairly warm to touch but no joy.

[Box'a'bits]

Thanks Clint, I'd had my ex BMW riders hairdryer on it and it was fairly warm to touch but no joy.
Fixed? Or do you need me to bring my senior BMW hairdryer over?

[marks]

Fixed? Or do you need me to bring my senior BMW hairdryer over?

the temptation to say something about BMW riders offering hot blow jobs to DR riders is almost overwhelming :shutup:

[Box'a'bits]

Trust a KLR rider to be thinking about giving & receiving blow jobs. :facepalm:

BMW riders are more focussed on hot air. :innocent:

[Eddieb]

Thanks guys.

All sorted. I took the sprocket carrier into Wellington Motorcycles this morning and left it there for an hour or so. $34 and it was done proper.

[Eddieb]

The bikes now all back together, new sprocket carrier bearing and speedo cable installed.

[NordieBoy]

The bikes now all back together, new sprocket carrier bearing and speedo cable installed.

Got a couple of spare speedo cables here...

[Eddieb]

Now you tell me.

[Eddieb]

I wandered down to my friendly Suzuki dealer during lunch today to enquire of the availablility of rear shock shims.

I was told that while the shocks may be servicable Suzuki do not offer any of the internal parts to do so.

Does anyone know of a shim supplier that does DR 650 compatible shim sizes? I haven't even been able to find any info of what shims are installed as stock.

Nordie, i believe you've put heavier/thicker oil in your rear shock. How hard is it, how much use does it need to have before the heat makes it loose it's damping, and when it does is it actually any worse than stock?

[NordieBoy]

I wandered down to my friendly Suzuki dealer during lunch today to enquire of the availablility of rear shock shims.

I was told that while the shocks may be servicable Suzuki do not offer any of the internal parts to do so.

Does anyone know of a shim supplier that does DR 650 compatible shim sizes? I haven't even been able to find any info of what shims are installed as stock.

Nordie, i believe you've put heavier/thicker oil in your rear shock. How hard is it, how much use does it need to have before the heat makes it loose it's damping, and when it does is it actually any worse than stock?

I put 10W shock oil in about 30,000km ago. Damping turned right back. Good so far.

RaceTech do a gold valve kit but most suspension shops will re-valve as the shims are pretty standard.

There are some pics on AdvRider in the DR thread (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13119465&postcount=35897) of a dismantled shim stack including the sizes and order of all the shims.

[Eddieb]

Seat Concepts or Procycle, if you were in the market for a new seat which would you get and why?
I've found lots of good reports for both, and a couple of average and one negative one for the Procycle seat, mainly around the shape.

Yes Nordie I know you redid your stocker for cheap but I don't have the gear and don't trust myself to do a decent job of it, and the local upholsterer quoted me $400 to do it.

Procycle
http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepages/dr650/seat_procycle_installed1.jpg

Seat Concepts
http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepages/dr650/sc-dr650.jpg

[NordieBoy]

I think either would be good but the seat concepts has the edge. Personally, none of them are tall enough. Which is why the diy route.

[clint640]

Yes Nordie I know you redid your stocker for cheap but I don't have the gear and don't trust myself to do a decent job of it, and the local upholsterer quoted me $400 to do it.


An electric breadknife & some F2 glue are only about $40. Scrounge up a few scraps of foam & start experimenting, a bit of trial & error will produce a better fitting seat than anything you can buy. Then get an upholsterer to put on some vinyl. Rosie only paid $80 to get her finished core recovered.

Cheers
Clint

[Rosie]

Yes Nordie I know you redid your stocker for cheap but I don't have the gear and don't trust myself to do a decent job of it, and the local upholsterer quoted me $400 to do it.

Want to hire an electric breadknife? I can do you a deal for a lot less than $400 :shifty:

Redoing seats isn't that bad, and it gives you the chance to refine the design over the course of a few rides. I got a cover made up for the WR's seat once I'd finished hacking it, and it turned out really well for <$100.

[Shewolf]

taking my DR bench to MacDonalds in Tga tomorrow - considered the DIY job but I'm shit at cutting bread with my electric knife:laugh:

[Rosie]

taking my DR bench to MacDonalds in Tga tomorrow - considered the DIY job but I'm shit at cutting bread with my electric knife:laugh:

With foam you can tidy up any dodgy cuts with a belt sander. With bread, not so much :mellow:

[Eddieb]

taking my DR bench to MacDonalds in Tga tomorrow - considered the DIY job but I'm shit at cutting bread with my electric knife:laugh:

Thats my issue too, I could never get the 2 sides the same, one side of the seat would be higher/lower/wider/slimmer/rounder/sharper/longer/shorter than the other.

I'd be happy to pay a reasonable cost for someone to do it for me. I want the same sort of shape as the Procycle/Seat Concepts seats and a cm or 2 of extra height would be nice.

My other issue is that I commute on the bike everyday so it's inconvenient to have it off the bike.

[Night Falcon]

at the end of the day whether you DIY or go pro for your seat mods... getting the seat right will be remembered long after the cost is forgotten!:mellow: mine is pretty good now but still not 100% on long trips even with a sheep skin. Wide but not too wide, and soft while being firm is not easy to acheive. the stock seat pan can limit ya options as well. <_<

[bart]

I've got a cheaper idea. Replace your computer chair with a plank of 4x2 (a saw horse would work brilliantly). After a few weeks, the stock DR seat would feel as plush as velvet cushions stuffed with baby duck feathers. :laugh:

[Eddieb]

mmmmmm

Thanks for shopping with Procycle!

Your order has been shipped to you on 08/12/2011 via USPS Express Mail International, Parcel.

[Magnum Noel]

Eddie I had my seat redone at a place in UPPER HUTT for about $120 from memory. Can't remember their name but was at end of Whakatiki Street. Can ride for 2 hours non stop instead of 20 minutes.

[Eddieb]

Eddie I had my seat redone at a place in UPPER HUTT for about $120 from memory. Can't remember their name but was at end of Whakatiki Street. Can ride for 2 hours non stop instead of 20 minutes.

Thanks Noel, too late unfortunately. I buckled and ordered a seat from Procycle last night.

[Eddieb]

I got some garage time today so I installed the rear luggage rack I purchased some time ago. I was intending to leave this off till I had sourced a lower mileage bike but all the good ones had gone by the time I got my funds together. The rack replaces the stock grab rails and hence the indicator mounts so I had to remove the rear guard and re-run the indicator lines.

244574

If you've got a good post 2002 DR you want to sell in the ~$4500 range drop me a line.

Fitting the rack allowed me to also mount the Pelican style topbox that came with it. I've mainly fitted the box for the upcoming Cold Kiwi rally, the box has padlock holes so I can store my camera etc in it and carry a bit of gear up in it.

244575 244573

'cuse the crap low light cell phone pics.

[Waihou Thumper]

In my experience, the boxes are good but you have to make sure they are full. The reason being, when riding over rough ground, the contents buck and jump and re-arrange themselves something chronic! If you are going to carry electronic gear, make sure it is well padded and fill 'er up.
I spose I don't need to tell you that anyway, but food for thought :)

[Night Falcon]

[I][COLOR=darkorange]In my experience, the boxes are good but you have to make sure they are full. The reason being, when riding over rough ground, the contents buck and jump and re-arrange themselves something chronic! If you are going to carry electronic gear, make sure it is well padded and fill 'er up.

+ 1 If I have spare space I throw in a towel (no not give up) as packing. Also comes in handy for drying out fellow riders who fail river crossings :laugh:

[DR650gary]

+1 on the towel. There is one permanently in my Givi bag as a cushion or a wrap if the box isn't very full.

[Eddieb]

mmmmm, looky in my garage.

[Shewolf]

ooooo new baby, you going to produce DR200's when they mated?

[Phreaky Phil]

200? _ _ _ _ KM ?
:corn:

[andy mac]

Noice WR blue!
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

[Eddieb]

200? _ _ _ _ KM ?
:corn:

2005

9010 km

[dino3310]

Gotta love those DR's :laugh:

[bart]

mmmmm, looky in my garage.

You better be careful Eddie. If they breed, you might end up with a JR50 as well. It'd look funny green though. :laugh:

[Shewolf]

had a closer look, yep..... old yeller has definitely got a sulk on :Pokey:

[Padmei]

saw ya bidding on that one. What did you end up getting it for? looked very tidy & when I last looked a while ago was quite cheap.

[Phreaky Phil]

2005

9010 kmSWeeeet :2thumbsup

[marks]

mmmmm, looky in my garage.

sweet - 2 gay bland bikes

[Pikey]

:2guns: What the:bash:

[Woodman]

Eddie Eddie Eddie. You are over-compensating. Two DRs won't make up for the lack of owning a KLR.

[dino3310]

oh here we go, was wondering when you two where gonna have a :Pokey:.
im sure Eddie would prefer being a man riding a gay bike than a gay riding a man bike :rofl:

[Eddieb]

sweet - 2 gay bland bikes


Eddie Eddie Eddie. You are over-compensating. Two DRs won't make up for the lack of owning a KLR.

Notice that both those posters have such a need to compensate for a lack of something that they have to have big bore kits in their KLR's because the stock bike wasn't satisfying enough.

[marks]

Notice that both those posters have such a need to compensate for a lack of something that they have to have big bore kits in their KLR's because the stock bike wasn't satisfying enough.

no argument there - a stock klr is a slug
but it aint bland and it aint gay:Punk:

[bart]

no argument there - a stock klr is a slug
but it aint bland and it aint gay:Punk:

And it aint light. Yeah, Go the mighty KLR!

245151 245152

[Eddieb]

Some more pics.

[bart]

Some more pics.

Way too shiny. :shifty:

[Woodman]

Are you gonna keep both bikes? Are the wheels interchangeable?

[Eddieb]

Are you gonna keep both bikes? Are the wheels interchangeable?

I'll keep both for a short while at least. Apart from the different headlight/screen shape they are essentially exactly the same so everything is interchangable.

[Box'a'bits]

Eddie brought the DR around here yesterday. Have to say that it looks & sounds a new bike. I think he's done very well - basically a new bike for 1/2 price. :rockon:

[5150]

taking my DR bench to MacDonalds in Tga tomorrow - considered the DIY job but I'm shit at cutting bread with my electric knife:laugh:

While there, can you order me a Happy meal and a Boss burger thanx. Will sort you out later. :laugh:

[dino3310]

Eddie brought the DR around here yesterday. Have to say that it looks & sounds a new bike. I think he's done very well - basically a new bike for 1/2 price. :rockon:

offcourse he's done well he brought a DR:laugh:

[Shewolf]

spent 7 or so hours in the saddle yesterday and it was so blissful, after a frigid start that is...I thank Maccer's from the heart of my bottom

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af144/Shewolfnz/Bikes/DR650/DSCN1425.jpg



While there, can you order me a Happy meal and a Boss burger thanx. Will sort you out later. :laugh:

[Eddieb]

mmmmmm

Thanks for shopping with Procycle!

Your order has been shipped to you on 08/12/2011 via USPS Express Mail International, Parcel.

A nice big box has just landed on my desk.

[Shewolf]

I'm sure you've shown restraint and not opened yet :shifty:


A nice big box has just landed on my desk.

[5150]

I'm sure you've shown restraint and not opened yet :shifty:

Yeah right......:laugh:

[Eddieb]

Some of the new stash.

[5150]

Some of the new stash.

Something is missing here. Where is the flux capacitor??:shifty:

[marks]

Some of the new stash.

farkling is just about as much fun as riding :yes:

whens the 780 kit turning up?

[Eddieb]

farkling is just about as much fun as riding :yes:

whens the 780 kit turning up?

It is, but my wallet isn't that deep. The carb, pipe, airbox mods wake the bike up quite nicely anyway.

[NordieBoy]

The carb, pipe, airbox mods wake the bike up quite nicely anyway.

In the words of Yello...

Oh yeah :Punk:

[Eddieb]

Well the pristine new DR is not as pristine and new as it was, cause some fucking asswipe knocked it over yesterday in the motorcycle park outside Wellington Motorcycles

No major damage but scratches to the left mirror, front guard, a small chip in the tank paint, scratches on the right side panel and a lower fork leg, and both mirror were bent right back.

No witnesses unfortunately.

[5150]

Well the pristine new DR is not as pristine and new as it was, cause some fucking asswipe knocked it over yesterday in the motorcycle park outside Wellington Motorcycles

No major damage but scratches to the left mirror, front guard, a small chip in the tank paint, scratches on the right side panel and a lower fork leg, and both mirror were bent right back.

No witnesses unfortunately.

Oh bugger dude. That sux. Did you park it there or did it happen while it was in shops care? If the later, then they are responsible for the repairs (under their insurance):shit:

[Eddieb]

Oh bugger dude. That sux. Did you park it there or did it happen while it was in shops care? If the later, then they are responsible for the repairs (under their insurance):shit:

It's a council designated motorcycle park that just happens to be outside the shop. There's a bike park on either side of the shop separated by a crosshatched no parking area that allows the shop access to get bikes in and out. My bike was parked on the inside edge of one of the parks, right next to the access way.
It looks like someone has pulled across the access way and hit my bike while trying to get out again.

There is a slim chance the local council may have caught some footage on some security camera's but I'm still following that up.

[bart]

Sorry to hear that Eddie. What a piss off. :mad:

Did you just walk out of the shop and see it on it's side? :shit:

[Eddieb]

Sorry to hear that Eddie. What a piss off. :mad:

Did you just walk out of the shop and see it on it's side? :shit:

Nah, I park it there daily while at work. When I returned at the end of the day it was upright but parked at a weird angle.

[Eddieb]

The stock DR650 seat and Seat Concepts seat.

[Shewolf]

mmmmmmm :corn:

[Eddieb]

They were dropped off to an upholsterer this morning to be changed over. I'm hoping to use the Seat Concepts one on the old DR at the Cold Kiwi this weekend but don't have time between now and then to do it myself.

[Eddieb]

I picked up the recovered seat today and fitted it tonight, all ready for the Cold Kiwi tomorrow.

It all looks good. A quick sit in the garage indicates it's firmer, but way more comfy having the extra width.

[gloves]

Hi Bud
We have meet once on a ride over the waiarapa wilth Mark Signal and co a few months ago.
Question is what have you done to the carb as my DR has a cycleworks exhaust
and back fires and i would like to sort it out

[Eddieb]

Hi Bud
We have meet once on a ride over the waiarapa wilth Mark Signal and co a few months ago.
Question is what have you done to the carb as my DR has a cycleworks exhaust
and back fires and i would like to sort it out

Hey, yes on the Sutherlands Hut and CNUT hill ride I believe.

They all do that, though whether yours is worse than others is hard to say. I don't recall hearing it popping.

I haven't done anything to my carb though the recommendation is to shim the needle, place a thin washer under the needle clip so that it lifts the needle slightly and richens things up.
On my bike I did notice it backfiring more after fitting the TL1000 exhaust, only subtly though. That pipe is still probably pretty restrictive compared to your pipe.

[Magnum Noel]

Hi Bud
We have meet once on a ride over the waiarapa wilth Mark Signal and co a few months ago.
Question is what have you done to the carb as my DR has a cycleworks exhaust
and back fires and i would like to sort it out

Eddie's right DR's with stock carb back fire and non standard exhaust just amplifies the effect. Mate its a great sound dont worry about it.

[Shewolf]

http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz334/UlyssesNZ/DSCN1494.jpg

[Eddieb]

http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz334/UlyssesNZ/DSCN1494.jpg

Haha, I didn't see that.

[ducatijim]

[QUOTE=Shewolf;1130135582]spent 7 or so hours in the saddle yesterday and it was so blissful,

QUOTE]

Goddang, how I wish I could still manage 7 hours in the 'saddle'....oh to be young again?:yes:

[Shewolf]

:laugh::laugh::laugh:



Goddang, how I wish I could still manage 7 hours in the 'saddle'....oh to be young again?:yes:

[Eddieb]

Garage day today.

I pulled the header off the new bike today and had a look at the weld, it wasn't the worst I've seen but still restricted so I attacked it with the drill and a few grinding thingy's.

Before:
246622 246623
'scuse the crappy cell phone pics but you get the idea.

After:
246624

I didn't take the weld right back to smooth because a) the header port ID is smaller than the pipe ID, where I've ground it down to is as close as I will get without a micrometer, b) I didn't want to weaken the weld and possibly most importantly c) I ran out of grinding wheels for the drill.

The picture looks like there's still a lot of meat there but it's actually about 1mm all the way around.

Once the header was reinstalled I transferred the TL1000 pipe and Phreaky Phil midpipe off the old bike onto the new one and refitted the stock pipe on the old bike, and I've fitted my new Zeta handguards.

246625

[Eddieb]

More garage time this afternoon so I got the Pivot Pegz and lowering brackets transferred between bikes.

I also removed the B&B bashplate and refitted the factory bashplate to the old bike, the B&B bashplate will go on the new bike when I get some new rubber for between the plate and frame.

Another job part done was mounting the smaller flexi stalk Touratech indicators. The front ones are all mounted up and going but the rear indicators require some extra wire soldering in as the leads provided aren't long enough.

I got some of these OEM plugs off Ebay a few weeks ago so that I didn't have to cut the stock wires up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-OEM-Turn-Signal-Wiring-Harness-Connectors-/220834099083?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336abcef8b#ht_1543wt_939
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqUOKjEE4vUiVtCOBOSo9nscNQ~~0_12.JPG

[Eddieb]

I made my new loom up last night and got the rear indicators fully installed now.

Nordie, how much difference would cutting the airbox fully open vrs a 60mm diameter opening make?

60mm is 50% larger than the carb intake so the velocity through the opening should be quite reduced and much less of a restriction.

I was thinking of doing something like the below, but with only the upper hole in the pic installed. I don't really want to butcher the entire airbox.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu91/GShane33/Forum%20Posts/IMG_0435.jpg

[NordieBoy]

It'll be better but not as good as the whole top cut out.

[Eddieb]

It'll be better but not as good as the whole top cut out.

Any idea how much betterer though?

I'm after that elusive combination between a noticable improvement, which just removing the snorkel already gave a good bit vrs long term reliability and maintenance including how much dust gets sucked in and so how quickly the airfilter clogs in dusty conditions.

[NordieBoy]

You got a dynojet kit?

[Eddieb]

You got a dynojet kit?

I'm putting the FCR in, though I have the remains of a kit after a DR install has been done. I'm not sure whats left in the kit though cause it's in Hamilton.

One thing I've noticed is that on the current setup with the snorkel removed is that the airfilter gets VERY dirty directly below the airbox hole very quickly. I'm hoping opening the airbox up doesn't have the same impact over the entire filter.

[Eddieb]

I've pulled the airbox and shock out of the new bike tonight. Now to figure out how to remove the spring so I can quickly do the same task on the other shock and swap the springs over.

I'll take some measurements of the preload position of each spring before removal also so I can set them up the same way again.

Nordie, for the front forks what length did you cut your spacers down to for the intiminators?

[Eddieb]

P.s after Saturdays ride

I love my DR!

[NordieBoy]

Nordie, for the front forks what length did you cut your spacers down to for the intiminators?

Basically just make them shorter by the thickness of the 'nators...

I played around a lot and ended up with 5mm preload with 0.47kg/mm springs.

I was surprised how well the stock springs went though.

[Box'a'bits]

P.s after Saturdays ride - I love my DR!
Except the permanently on headlight....:facepalm:

[Eddieb]

Except the permanently on headlight....:facepalm:

Yeah, I discovered that I had bumped the high beam switch so that wouldn't have helped at those speeds. I will wire a switch in once I have spoken to Noel about how he wired his up.

I adjusted my foot levers today too and fixed the permanently on brake light in the process, another thing that wouldn't have helped.

[Magnum Noel]

helped.[/QUOTE]

once I have spoken to Noel

Just say the word and i'll be down.

[Eddieb]

Tonight I removed the upper chain roller, there's horror stories all over the net about what happens when the chain decides to remove it for you and the yellow DR has a hole in the side of the frame to show from it.

A pic from DRRIDERS.com of what happens if the chain removes the roller for you

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kWgxr5Cq_z8/TT5I2aHpofI/AAAAAAAADho/uO49UaJ-iYA/IMG_1657%20%28Small%29.JPG

1) The upper chain roller, you can see the grooves in it.
2) close up, this has done 9000 road miles, no rough trails and it's still very worn
3) A grub screw, also referred to on US sites as a Set screw, this is used to fill the captive nut left when the roller is removed so that water doesn't get into the frame. It's 8mm x 1.25 thread. I went for 15mm length which is probably a bit short as mine didn't nip up against anything. I've locktite'd it in place and hopefully it will stay there.
4) The grub screw in place.

[Eddieb]

I also got the spring removed from the blue bikes shock in preparation for transferring the 8.3 spring over from the yellow bike.

[dino3310]

i cant afford a new heavier spring for the XR so im gonna lose some weight instead:shit:

[Eddieb]

i cant afford a new heavier spring for the XR so im gonna lose some weight instead:shit:

Did you eat all the pies?

I was lucky in that the yellow bike came with the heavier spring, though I've also managed to drop 6kg.

[dino3310]

no pies mate just KFC :rofl:
looking forward to seeing the DR in the flesh, its been awhile

[Eddieb]

Got a bit more stuff progressed today.

The shock was removed from the yellow bike and the 8.3 spring taken off, the factory spring off the blue bike was then fitted and the shock set to the factory hard preload settings and reinstalled. Removing and reinstalling the shock also requires the airbox to be removed so it's a bit of work.

While in there I also opened the carb up and lifted the needle 1 notch as the bike had felt a bit lean after removing the snorkel. It's now on the bottom notch. A quick ride up the street indicates it's now much more responsive off idle at least.
The needle has a decent score in it just below the bottom notch, and a wear spot about halfway down so at some stage in the future that should be replaced I guess. I had to drill the carb screws as well due the the heads being like butter, fortunately I'd planned ahead and got replacement screws with my last Procycle order. I didn't have to take the heads right off though as halfway down them the screws loosened up and were spinning on the drillbit, once that happened I could undo them by hand.

[Eddieb]

A question for the Nordmeister and anyone else that has installed the FCR39 onto a DR

There's 2 lots of wiring coming out of the carb, one is TPS and I'm not sure what the other is. Both can be cut off and thrown away?

I've installed a Merge AP spring and extended fuel screw into it today. Apart from the 2 wires I think it's ready to go onto the bike!

I've also removed the preload spacers from the front forks of the blue bike so I can take them down to an engineer next week and get 15mm cut of each one to account for the Intiminators. I picked up some 5w fork oil yesterday in preparation for that install.

[Phreaky Phil]

Mine only had one set of wires but you dont need any of them. I just left mine under the tank.

[NordieBoy]

2 sets?

I removed the TPS wires and bunged a pair of pliers on the TPS shaft, broke it off and taped over the hole.

[Eddieb]

2 sets?

I removed the TPS wires and bunged a pair of pliers on the TPS shaft, broke it off and taped over the hole.

Yep, 2 sets. One lot goes into the TPS, I'll probably leave the TPS unit on and just chop the wires where they enter it, unless there's a good reason to remove the whole unit. The other wires come out at the bottom of that same cover the TPS is mounted on.

[NordieBoy]

Yep, 2 sets. One lot goes into the TPS, I'll probably leave the TPS unit on and just chop the wires where they enter it, unless there's a good reason to remove the whole unit. The other wires come out at the bottom of that same cover the TPS is mounted on.

I removed the unit as it touched the IMS tank.
I can also only pull the choke on a fraction and for a fraction more have to push the right side of the tank in with my knee :D

[Eddieb]

I removed the unit as it touched the IMS tank.
I can also only pull the choke on a fraction and for a fraction more have to push the right side of the tank in with my knee :D

Thanks Fran, are you using the bar choke or the stock FCR little pull out lever?

[Eddieb]

Eibach spring was installed onto the shock and refitted into the bike today also. Ready for some FCR goodness.

[Phreaky Phil]

I asked MXRob about using the remote BST choke on the FCR and he said that they will fit but can be a bit problematic, so I stuck with the FCR choke. Theres plenty of room with the Safari tank and the throttle cables are on the right side of the carb so they dont get in the way like the BST cables did with the carb mounted BST choke.

[NordieBoy]

Thanks Fran, are you using the bar choke or the stock FCR little pull out lever?

Stock FCR. My bar mount one was removed from the switchgear with a dremel years ago.

[Eddieb]

mmm AP timing on the FCR carb not going as planned, partially I think cause I don't really know what I am doing. Carbs are a bit of a black art to me.

To refer to MX_Rob's guidelines
https://docs.google.com/present/view?id=djwd44j_124dhb295f8&pli=1

I've got the carb hooked up to the tank and if I depress the black timing arm fuel is squirted onto the slide, however, if I turn the throttle cam I can't see fuel spraying anywhere. I've tried winding the screw adjuster on the timing arm fully in and fully out and I can't get fuel to spray on the slide by turning the throttle cam, in fact it doesn't seem to be spraying anywhere.

Compounding this is I seem to be getting quite a lot of leakage from the bottom of the carb somewhere, and from the drain in the bottom of the carb. I can't tell if it's leaking from the bottom of the AP pump or the jet access cover but I'm wondering if this is causing a loss of pressure so that it's not spraying when I twist the throttle cam. Depressing the timing arm directly I can press it quickly, however using the throttle cam is much slower so I'm wondering if it's loosing pressure between twists due to the leak, between the 2 leaks it's losing quite a lot of fuel.

I pulled the AP pump cover off and the mating surface does seem to have a bit of damage so thats probably it, but it's not obvious that thats where the leak is coming from.

Anyone in Wellington ever done this? I need to get it sorted in the next 2 weeks for a ride.

[NordieBoy]

I had to wind the screw almost all the way out to get it to to just miss the slide.
Does sound like there's a bit of a leak.

[rogerh]

In all my mucking around with the FCR, the best info I could find was here (http://www.thumperfaq.com/ap.htm) (about the accelerator pump anyway). The site in general is really good, and enabled me to find quite a few problems with the various carbs I had. Good descriptions of what is normal etc.

From memory, I did not have any problems with the squirt hitting the slide. With things set right it is a work of art. This (http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/keihin_fcr_pictures&page=all) site had some really good pictures that showed setup too. I ended up fixing the carb to a post, (like the pics lower down in the jd stuff) with a small tank feeding to it, and followed these two guides. I had the ap spring mounted in the wrong place in one, and another had a hole (that was not supposed to be there!) in the leak jet part. Both ran on bikes before I worked on them, but worked much better when set up right.

[Monstaman]

Eibach spring was installed onto the shock and refitted into the bike today also. Ready for some FCR goodness.

Heya Eddie

Did you do any revalving in the shock or just uprate the spring?

[Eddieb]

Heya Eddie

Did you do any revalving in the shock or just uprate the spring?

Just uprated the spring at this stage, the spring came with the Yellow bike so I've just swapped it over. I find the spring a significant improvement but I'll ride it some more and decided and whether I want to change the fluid as well or not.
At this stage I'm not considering actually revalving the shock as the cost/benefit doesn't stack up.

[Monstaman]

At this stage I'm not considering actually revalving the shock as the cost/benefit doesn't stack up.

Yeah that is where I am coming from, I bought a YSS shock on tardme for $200.00 about 4 weeks ago http://www.sella.co.nz/motoring/motorcycles-scooters/parts-for-sale/8y8l7w/ , the spring is slightly heavier, .30 mm bigger wire dia so a little better with load than factory.

Damping is great and very adjustable, we wonna get another one or something similar for Ellens bike so looking at options so would be interested in seeing how yours pans out.

[pete-blen]

Yeah that is where I am coming from, I bought a YSS shock on tardme for $200.00 about 4 weeks ago http://www.sella.co.nz/motoring/motorcycles-scooters/parts-for-sale/8y8l7w/ , the spring is slightly heavier, .30 mm bigger wire dia so a little better with load than factory.

Damping is great and very adjustable, we wonna get another one or something similar for Ellens bike so looking at options so would be interested in seeing how yours pans out.

do you know what rate the springs are ?
never measured one up to fined out.

Heres a spring rate calc... It will give you a better
idea of the rate diffrent between diffrent springs..
http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm

The rate is calc at lbs per every inch of compression...

[Eddieb]

Yeah that is where I am coming from, I bought a YSS shock on tardme for $200.00 about 4 weeks ago http://www.sella.co.nz/motoring/motorcycles-scooters/parts-for-sale/8y8l7w/ , the spring is slightly heavier, .30 mm bigger wire dia so a little better with load than factory.

Damping is great and very adjustable, we wonna get another one or something similar for Ellens bike so looking at options so would be interested in seeing how yours pans out.

That looks like a good score.

I picked up my preload spacers this morning from the engineer after he cut 15mm off them. Tonight the intiminators went into the forks and everything was reassembled. One more thing ticked off.

[NordieBoy]

I picked up my preload spacers this morning from the engineer after he cut 15mm off them. Tonight the intiminators went into the forks and everything was reassembled. One more thing ticked off.

Should be getting some Intiminators for the TT soon.
Re-valved Triumph Scrambler ones according to Brian at Ricor.

[thepom]

would Intiminators make much difference to my xt 600e ? is it worth the money?..

[Woodman]

would Intiminators make much difference to my xt 600e ? is it worth the money?..

Yes, Intime-anteaters will improve the xt. According to Doctor Robert they are a band aid, but they do make a difference and are cheaper than a new front end and revalving etc. Honestly stopped a lot of frontend washout type crashes for me.

[thepom]

I don,t see them listed for the xt only the v max.........and I already have progessive springs so I would end up putting the originals back and then fitting
the Intiminators....

[Monstaman]

do you know what rate the springs are ?
never measured one up to fined out.

Heres a spring rate calc... It will give you a better
idea of the rate diffrent between diffrent springs..
http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm

The rate is calc at lbs per every inch of compression...

That looks good but I can't check it without pulling it out of the bike however I will do it when I remove it just to see.

It is .30 mm bigger in wire and has 1 less wrap, spring dia is the same so combined with 1 less wrap (so approx 267mm less wire) and bigger wire it won't be as supple as the DR spring but will have better carrying capacity, always a tradeoff.

[Eddieb]

The old DR is getting more and more stock, the IMS tank and Seat concepts seat came off last night to be fitted to the new bike this weekend, and the stock tank and seat went back on.

[NordieBoy]

The old DR is getting more and more stock, the IMS tank and Seat concepts seat came off last night to be fitted to the new bike this weekend, and the stock tank and seat went back on.

Looking more and more like a George.

[Eddieb]

Looking more and more like a George.

It now looks completely like a George, the rear rack has been removed and the original grab rails have been reinstalled.

More work this weekend, yesterday morning the blue bike looked like this

248225

It's now had the wheels refitted with a new D606 on the front and half used E-07 no the rear and top and side luggage racks have been fitted. The carb and airbox have also been reinstalled.

A Scottoiler has also been fitted and plumbed in. I ran the oil line down the inside of the swingarm and then underneath to the rear sprocket. The vacuum line was plumbed into the carb vacuum which was also plugged off and tied out of the way in preparation of the IMS tank being fitted.

248226 248227

Having to pull the clutch in to start the bike annoys me so disabling the clutch switch was the next mod. This is an easy one, all it takes is to remove the headlight shroud, unplug some wires and plug them back in a different way.
The yellow with green stripe wires are the clutch switch. Simply unplug them and then plug each end back into itself. I looped them through each other just to keep things together.
248228 248229

[Pikey]

Like what?:confused:

[Eddieb]

Like what?:confused:

The previous owner, who Nordie knows, nicknamed the yellow bike George. I have no idea why.

[Eddieb]

While doing the clutch switch mod I found some chaffing on one part of the loom. It appears the loom rubs against the metal bracket that holds it in place. This was addressed by wrapping a piece of old tube around the wires and zip tying it in place. Fortunately none of the wires had been cut through, just the loom cover.

248231 248232

The same issue was found in the loom near the headstock. It appears this rubs on the headlight/instrument frame attached to the fork leg. Another piece of old tube should see this right also.

248233 248234

[Eddieb]

Anyone know offhand what a DR battery is worth?

I've just taken the yellow bike out but starting it is an issue. It's been slowly getting weaker and weaker winding over the last few weeks and today barely fired after not being used for 5 days.
I did a 20 minute ride including through a few 80km/h zones then the bike was parked for about an hour and it almost didn't start for the trip home. Once home I put it on the charger and it charges for about 10 seconds then the charger says it's fully charged. Sounds to me like it's stuffed.

[5150]

Anyone know offhand what a DR battery is worth?

I've just taken the yellow bike out but starting it is an issue. It's been slowly getting weaker and weaker winding over the last few weeks and today barely fired after not being used for 5 days.
I did a 20 minute ride including through a few 80km/h zones then the bike was parked for about an hour and it almost didn't start for the trip home. Once home I put it on the charger and it charges for about 10 seconds then the charger says it's fully charged. Sounds to me like it's stuffed.

My DR650 battery was $78 at my local

[Eddieb]

A Scottoiler has also been fitted and plumbed in. I ran the oil line down the inside of the swingarm and then underneath to the rear sprocket. The vacuum line was plumbed into the carb vacuum which was also plugged off and tied out of the way in preparation of the IMS tank being fitted.
248227


I think I'll need to check out where others have the Scottoiler outlet on the rear sprocket set up, I wheeled the bike around the garage this evening and mine was getting caught up in the chain when moving the bike backwards.

All pics on your Scottoiler outlet location and angle welcome.

[DR650gary]

I think I'll need to check out where others have the Scottoiler outlet on the rear sprocket set up, I wheeled the bike around the garage this evening and mine was getting caught up in the chain when moving the bike backwards.

All pics on your Scottoiler outlet location and angle welcome.

Will post one tomorrow, but bend the stainless mount bracket and raise it up 5mm or so. It doesn't need to touch as gravity and wind will get the oil there. About 6:45 on the rear sprocket, if you know what I mean and touch the sprocket like a feather.

[NordieBoy]

Will post one tomorrow, but bend the stainless mount bracket and raise it up 5mm or so. It doesn't need to touch as gravity and wind will get the oil there. About 6:45 on the rear sprocket, if you know what I mean and touch the sprocket like a feather.

Yep but I'd go for 2mm sprocket clearance as dust on the sprocket gums up the nozzle if it's too close.

[DR650gary]

Will post one tomorrow, but bend the stainless mount bracket and raise it up 5mm or so. It doesn't need to touch as gravity and wind will get the oil there. About 6:45 on the rear sprocket, if you know what I mean and touch the sprocket like a feather.


This is on my TDM900 and is better placed, but not cleaned :facepalm:

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae242/DR650gary/TDMscott.jpg

This bike hasn't been ridden since being cleaned which is why it has no oil on the sprocket. The oil gets to the chain via the sprocket but the outlet is a bit far away.

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae242/DR650gary/raptorscott.jpg

[Eddieb]

Well I chucked the bike together for the Akd Gravel Riders Coromandel weekend without having had a chance to ride it before hand and I found a few little things that need some further attention while on the ride.

The Scottoiler isn't/wasn't flowing. I had set it up on setting 3 and after 80km's not one drop had gone from the resevoir into the outlet hose. After that I moved it round to 'Prime' and forgot about it. An hour later there was no fluid left in the resevoir and I had a very lubed chain. The oiler is plumbed into the vacumm line off the carb and seems sound so I'm not sure what the issue might be there.

I'd set up the airbox, ground header weld, exhaust etc for the FCR carb but when I went to install the FCR I discovered it had a few leaks. I need to investigate that further and I guess I will probably need to get an o-ring kit for it.
With the stock carb reinstalled it was getting way too much air. I had to tape up most of the airbox hole as the bike would barely run over 70km/h. It's running 90% now but I think I need to tape up a bit more till the FCR carb is sorted as it's still a bit hesitant.

The Intiminators are a huge improvement but the front feels a bit harsh. I measured the fork oil by volume (in 20ml increments no less!) using a measuring cup. Obviously this method has a fair degree of inaccuracy built in so they could be wildly out. Really I need to pull the forks and measure the liquid height from the top of the forks when compressed, this seems to be the recommended method as I suspect the forks have too much oil in them.

The harder shock spring is a big improvement over the stock spring but the damping still needs attention. I found the stock damping wound up to the hardest setting was too soft with luggage on board, but a little too hard riding solo. I may go for a cheap test first up and put heavier oil in as Nordie has done and see how that goes.

One of the biggest lessons was to double check that things are done up properly, especially little adjuster nuts that could potentially come undone, slide down the throttle cable and jam the throttle wide open just as you are peeling into a 90 degree 50km/h corner. DAMHIK!

Does anyone know where to get welding rod holders like these? it seems like an easy solution for a bit of extra tool space. I'd like to be able to take the top box off but still easily carry a pump/tyre levers etc. I'm familiar with the tool tubes but this looks a bit longer.

249499 249500