Eddieb's DR build thread. [Archive] - Page 3

NordieBoy

27th October 2011, 15:18

The Scottoiler isn't/wasn't flowing. I had set it up on setting 3 and after 80km's not one drop had gone from the resevoir into the outlet hose. After that I moved it round to 'Prime' and forgot about it. An hour later there was no fluid left in the resevoir and I had a very lubed chain. The oiler is plumbed into the vacumm line off the carb and seems sound so I'm not sure what the issue might be there.
Yep. They need to be run on prime and once the oil is flowing, back them off.

The Intiminators are a huge improvement but the front feels a bit harsh. I measured the fork oil by volume (in 20ml increments no less!) using a measuring cup. Obviously this method has a fair degree of inaccuracy built in so they could be wildly out. Really I need to pull the forks and measure the liquid height from the top of the forks when compressed, this seems to be the recommended method as I suspect the forks have too much oil in them.
The only way is to measure them by height from the top, without springs and compressed all the way up.

The harder shock spring is a big improvement over the stock spring but the damping still needs attention. I found the stock damping wound up to the hardest setting was too soft with luggage on board, but a little too hard riding solo. I may go for a cheap test first up and put heavier oil in as Nordie has done and see how that goes.
I'm running the 7.6kg/mm spring and the 10w oil means I can adjust from not enough to too much damping. The quality of the damping is crap but it's better than stock.

Does anyone know where to get welding rod holders like these? it seems like an easy solution for a bit of extra tool space. I'd like to be able to take the top box off but still easily carry a pump/tyre levers etc. I'm familiar with the tool tubes but this looks a bit longer.
Like this?
http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20101023%20ToolTube/index.html
http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20101023%20ToolTube/slides/20101023-082541.jpg
15" Buzzetti levers in there...
http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20101023%20ToolTube/slides/20101023-082730.jpg

Phreaky Phil

27th October 2011, 16:14

I got mine from here http://www.thetooltube.com/ToolTube.html

Howie

27th October 2011, 17:20

Well I chucked the bike together for the Akd Gravel Riders Coromandel weekend without having had a chance to ride it before hand and I found a few little things that need some further attention while on the ride.

The Scottoiler isn't/wasn't flowing. I had set it up on setting 3 and after 80km's not one drop had gone from the resevoir into the outlet hose. After that I moved it round to 'Prime' and forgot about it. An hour later there was no fluid left in the resevoir and I had a very lubed chain. The oiler is plumbed into the vacumm line off the carb and seems sound so I'm not sure what the issue might be there.

Hey Eddie just have a search around over Here (http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/support/installation.html) probably easier than trying to describe everything. The main thing to note is that in the prime position Gravity, and the size of the orifice is the only control on the flow of the oil.

MXNUT

28th October 2011, 15:29

I got mine from here http://www.thetooltube.com/ToolTube.html

Have you got a picture of it mounted on your bike Phill ???

marks

28th October 2011, 15:58

The Intiminators are a huge improvement but the front feels a bit harsh. I measured the fork oil by volume (in 20ml increments no less!) using a measuring cup. Obviously this method has a fair degree of inaccuracy built in so they could be wildly out. Really I need to pull the forks and measure the liquid height from the top of the forks when compressed, this seems to be the recommended method as I suspect the forks have too much oil in them.

this may have already been suggested but...

on the klr you have to shorten the spring spacers by the length of the intiminators to stop the front end feeling too harsh (I made new shorter ones out of plastic waterpipe). Do inferior brands like DR's have spring spacers?

Eddieb

28th October 2011, 16:17

this may have already been suggested but...

on the klr you have to shorten the spring spacers by the length of the intiminators to stop the front end feeling too harsh (I made new shorter ones out of plastic waterpipe). Do inferior brands like DR's have spring spacers?

Yep, if you scroll back up this page there's even a post with a pic about getting them shortened.

Phreaky Phil

28th October 2011, 16:20

Have you got a picture of it mounted on your bike Phill ???I found 2 stainless pipe clamps from a previous toolbox arrangement in the shed. Perfect size so I cut off the plastic brackets. Solid as !

Eddieb

30th October 2011, 20:42

Fitted my frame guards this afternoon. These were supposed to go on before the Coromandel ride but Aussie Post is crap and they didn't arrive in time. It was 3 days quicker to ship goods from Colorado than it was from Brisbane.

249748 249749

I think I also got the Scottoiler working, time will tell.

bart

30th October 2011, 21:25

What are the frame guards for? :confused:

The only things I can think of is adding weight and emptying your wallet. :facepalm:

Eddieb

31st October 2011, 06:09

What are the frame guards for? :confused:

The only things I can think of is adding weight and emptying your wallet. :facepalm:

they stop your boots from rubbing all the paint off, particularlywhen you get mud and crap stuck on the inside of your boots. after the Coromandel ride I have scratched all over the area they have covered. The waiouru volcanic ash is very nasty too.

bart

31st October 2011, 18:50

they stop your boots from rubbing all the paint off, particularlywhen you get mud and crap stuck on the inside of your boots. after the Coromandel ride I have scratched all over the area they have covered. The waiouru volcanic ash is very nasty too.

Ahhh, just as I suspected. They do nothing. :shutup:

Padmei

31st October 2011, 19:03

Good work Eddie

Woodman

31st October 2011, 19:06

Can you also get guards for your boots ?:innocent:

Padmei

31st October 2011, 19:07

if you really cared about your bike Eddie you'd take your boots off before walking all over the footpegs:angry:

bart

31st October 2011, 19:32

These will solve all your problems. They come in some manly colours now too.

249788

pete376403

31st October 2011, 20:06

What stops your gritty boots from scratching the frame guards, do they have protective covers?

Aslan

31st October 2011, 21:27

Eddieb

1st November 2011, 07:12

I'm smiling at you all giving Eddie grief about these frame guards - gotta fess up I have a set also - however removed the left hand (gear shift side) one since sharp edge on it was cutting my riding boots

I think Bart is right on the money with his Ug Boot pics - cheers S

Mine has a curved edge Aslan so I'm wondering if they changed the design since yours were made.

It's my tarts handbag and I'll dress it how I like :bleh:
Though I was also surprised how much rubbing on those areas one snotty muddy ride caused. The Waiouru ash is really bad, Matt rubbed right through the paint right back to bare plastic on one of his side panels last time we were there. I'd rather not take my frame back to bare metal on our trip up there.

Eddieb

5th November 2011, 15:47

The Scottoiler isn't/wasn't flowing. I had set it up on setting 3 and after 80km's not one drop had gone from the resevoir into the outlet hose. After that I moved it round to 'Prime' and forgot about it. An hour later there was no fluid left in the resevoir and I had a very lubed chain. The oiler is plumbed into the vacumm line off the carb and seems sound so I'm not sure what the issue might be there.

I've been playing with the Scottoiler and it seems to be flowing now. When I got home last night there was a drop hanging off the end of the outlet.

I'd set up the airbox, ground header weld, exhaust etc for the FCR carb but when I went to install the FCR I discovered it had a few leaks. I need to investigate that further and I guess I will probably need to get an o-ring kit for it.
With the stock carb reinstalled it was getting way too much air. I had to tape up most of the airbox hole as the bike would barely run over 70km/h. It's running 90% now but I think I need to tape up a bit more till the FCR carb is sorted as it's still a bit hesitant.

I taped up a small extra part of the airbox a few nights ago and the hesitation it had is gone. I'm pretty happy with how it's running at the moment, the hole thats left is about the same as with the snorkel removed.

The Intiminators are a huge improvement but the front feels a bit harsh. I measured the fork oil by volume (in 20ml increments no less!) using a measuring cup. Obviously this method has a fair degree of inaccuracy built in so they could be wildly out. Really I need to pull the forks and measure the liquid height from the top of the forks when compressed, this seems to be the recommended method as I suspect the forks have too much oil in them.

I pulled the front forks today and checked the fluid levels against the prescribed 6.5 inches or 165mm measured from the top of the fork leg with springs removed and the leg compressed. My hastily measured volumes were actually pretty close but were a bit low where I expected them to be too high. The right leg was about 1mm low, and the left leg maybe 2mm. I'll have to see if that makes a difference. The ride is still hugely improved and it's possible I'm expecting WP or Ohlins perfomance out of the intiminators, it's quite possible it's my expectations that are out, not the ride.

Does anyone know where to get welding rod holders like these? it seems like an easy solution for a bit of extra tool space. I'd like to be able to take the top box off but still easily carry a pump/tyre levers etc. I'm familiar with the tool tubes but this looks a bit longer.

I went down to my local plumbing supplies place today and picked up all the ingredients to make a tube like Nordies, now I just need some brackets to hang it.

NordieBoy

5th November 2011, 18:19

I pulled the front forks today and checked the fluid levels against the prescribed 6.5 inches or 165mm measured from the top of the fork leg with springs removed and the leg compressed. My hastily measured volumes were actually pretty close but were a bit low where I expected them to be too high. The right leg was about 1mm low, and the left leg maybe 2mm. I'll have to see if that makes a difference. The ride is still hugely improved and it's possible I'm expecting WP or Ohlins perfomance out of the intiminators, it's quite possible it's my expectations that are out, not the ride.

I'm running 160mm from the top.

Can you compare it to another Intiminator'd DR650?

Eddieb

5th November 2011, 18:36

I'm running 160mm from the top.

Can you compare it to another Intiminator'd DR650?

not unless you come over

Eddieb

8th November 2011, 07:08

Oh bugger!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/APPSJ4c_fR8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

NordieBoy

8th November 2011, 07:25

Ouch !

.chris

8th November 2011, 08:35

Oh man that sucked, watching 9 mins of video just waiting for your crash, SOOO INTENSE!

Did you get a chopper ride?

Shewolf

8th November 2011, 12:10

the replay was pretty good, the ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu.... etc

5150

8th November 2011, 13:15

the replay was pretty good, the ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu.... etc

Isin't that a standard pre-recordered reply for any motorcycle mishap? :innocent:

Night Falcon

8th November 2011, 16:19

yeooowch! I feel your pain...

250277

ADVGD

8th November 2011, 16:37

Oh bugger!

Bugger mate, you pulled a Peter :p

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/k5reDsSIiAk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Best of luck for a quick recovery. The money you save in fuel while resting up could go towards a steering stabilizer, that was your typical type of spill a good stabilizer helps to prevent. Maybe the next "Eddieb's DR build" addition?

Night Falcon

8th November 2011, 16:49

hey Eddie, I have selection of videos i am happy to send ya if ya getting bored, you may have seen some of them but heres some titles in any case:

LWR
LWD
Race to dakar
dual sport riding tecniques
advanced dual sport riding techiques
plus some odds & sods from bike mags

nothing startling but I found them more interesting than re-runs of Eastenders, just pm me if your interested

cheers
Marty

5150

8th November 2011, 18:16

dual sport riding tecniques
advanced dual sport riding techiques

I think he could have done with these two before he set off on his doomed adv ride :facepalm:

Eddieb

8th November 2011, 18:42

dino3310

8th November 2011, 18:44

shit mate i feel ya pain and right on summer too.
same ankle as what i did last summer, bloody hard starting the XR with a moon boot but i soon got the hang of it.
never mind mate shit happens its just your turn, no doubt the bike will get a bit of bling while ya of it, oh and your welcome to store it here away from temtation.
didnt Bruce do his ankle in not long ago too.
Heal fast mate, if theres anything i can do from this end just holla

tri boy

8th November 2011, 18:58

Hang tough Eddie.
You'll be riding again soon enough:yes:

Phreaky Phil

8th November 2011, 19:03

Bummer, How long are you laid up for ?

And the bike was sounding so good !!

Brian d marge

8th November 2011, 20:07

Hey that cameras good . crystal clear ...

Hope leg gets better

btw , what happened , you were pottering a long nice an gentle ..and pow .....

Stephen

Woodman

8th November 2011, 20:12

What a pain in the ass, oh well you can while away your time pretending to shoot the light fittings with your crutches.:facepalm:

andy mac

8th November 2011, 21:13

That sucks Eddie. I was considering buying some A'star Tech 3's but seems they failed your crash test dummy test. I hope you didn't damage the Pram track?

Eddieb

8th November 2011, 21:29

That sucks Eddie. I was considering buying some A'star Tech 3's but seems they failed your crash test dummy test. I hope you didn't damage the Pram track?

actually given how far I rotated my foot around the a&e staff were surprised my injury wasn't a lot worse. My injury was not due to impact but twisting. In their opinion the boots saved me from a far worse injury.

Underground

8th November 2011, 22:55

Awww, twisting your leg till it breaks :shit: , that's gotta be more painful than an impact break.....I'm starting to feel a little queasy,

marks

9th November 2011, 07:38

looks to me like you didn't have a sharp enough knob on the front (I have fallen off over 100 times in the mungys so I have expert status)

what tire are you running and what pressure?

Eddieb

9th November 2011, 07:45

looks to me like you didn't have a sharp enough knob on the front (I have fallen off over 100 times in the mungys so I have expert status)

what tire are you running and what pressure?

D606 that has done less than 1000km. Will have to check pressure but should have been about 25. This was hard packed, no mud.

marks

9th November 2011, 08:15

D606 that has done less than 1000km. Will have to check pressure but should have been about 25. This was hard packed, no mud.

well there goes that theory - nothing road legal is better than a sharp 606 off road
I have a 606 on the klr and run it at about 18psi when in the mungys (has a rim lock)

damp smooth clay can be so damn lethal

buggsubique

9th November 2011, 08:25

I remember you were talking about the harshness of the ride on the way in - maybe a combination of factors, but possibly some weird dynamic with the intiminators as you hit that water rut? Seems the front end really bounced, like the intiminators locked out, leaving only the tyre to take the hit.

Just seems there was a hell of a lot of energy that was transferred right up through the front end.

Eddieb

9th November 2011, 08:30

I think he could have done with these two before he set off on his doomed adv ride :facepalm:

I have both of them :bleh:

shit mate i feel ya pain and right on summer too.
same ankle as what i did last summer, bloody hard starting the XR with a moon boot but i soon got the hang of it.
never mind mate shit happens its just your turn, no doubt the bike will get a bit of bling while ya of it, oh and your welcome to store it here away from temtation.
didnt Bruce do his ankle in not long ago too.
Heal fast mate, if theres anything i can do from this end just holla

Yeah Dad did the other ankle about 8 months ago and is still on crutches. Lost his job as he couldn't go back to work. I have already done the other side, I have a plate holding my left heel together.

Hang tough Eddie.
You'll be riding again soon enough:yes:

Cheers

Bummer, How long are you laid up for ?

And the bike was sounding so good !!

Dunno, Christmas at least in the cast I think, possibly longer though before I can ride.

Hey that cameras good . crystal clear ...

Hope leg gets better

btw , what happened , you were pottering a long nice an gentle ..and pow .....

Stephen

Camera is a GoPro HD. Dunno really. There is a step up I went up that isn't obvious on the camera, I think you can see it as a smooth looking patch just before I go up it. Something went wrong as I went up it.

Thanks for everyone's well wishes. It's going to be boring riding season for me this year.

Eddieb

9th November 2011, 08:33

ADVGD

9th November 2011, 09:37

D606 that has done less than 1000km. Will have to check pressure but should have been about 25. This was hard packed, no mud.

Tyre pressures are pretty personal and debatable, far be it from me to say what is right or wrong, my personal preference however for rocky/greasy terrain like that (and most off road riding) is 16 front 18 rear. 25 for me is far too firm, I find the further you climb from 20 the tyre rattles and skids off rocks rather than geling and molding to them

possibly some weird dynamic with the intiminators as you hit that water rut? Seems the front end really bounced, like the intiminators locked out, leaving only the tyre to take the hit.

Just seems there was a hell of a lot of energy that was transferred right up through the front end.

I think you're onto something there mate, I watched the spill over and over quite baffled as to the cause, the terrain just doesn't seem to match the violent action of the frontend, a fork lockout (or internal failure of some description) could be a feasible/possible explanation??

What did the front “feel” like leading up to the spill and immediately before Eddie?

buggsubique

9th November 2011, 10:00

Tyre pressures are pretty personal and debatable, far be it from me to say what is right or wrong, my personal preference however for rocky/greasy terrain like that (and most off road riding) is 16 front 18 rear. 25 for me is far too firm, I find the further you climb from 20 the tyre rattles and skids off rocks rather than geling and molding to them

I think you're onto something there mate, I watched the spill over and over quite baffled as to the cause, the terrain just doesn't seem to match the violent action of the frontend, a fork lockout (or internal failure of some description) could be a feasible/possible explanation??

What did the front “feel” like leading up to the spill and immediately before Eddie?

But then for intiminators to be the case I just don't see how they could lock out. The bike's weight may have closed them, but then the energy coming up from the wheel should have re-opened them. Shame we can't see what the front wheel did in the video - ie how the forks worked.

Benjah

9th November 2011, 10:22

Dang Eddie!

Sorry to hear/see the news about your ankle. I've been down for a summer more than once so I know exactly what it's like. Watching DVD's through the fog of codeine .

The bike just seemed to shoot out from under you. It was so out of the blue.

I'm definitely wearing motorcross boots for any slippery track riding from now on.

Heal up quick.

5150

9th November 2011, 13:11

First of all. BUGGER!!!! dude.

But on the bright side.... At least you've got your moneys worth of ACC levies from your bike rego:niceone:

Get well soon, and if you need anything just yell out. Could make a weekend trip down to Welly to cheer you up a bit if you like :hug:

Monstaman

9th November 2011, 13:45

Damn Eddie that is less than ideal mate.

Best for getting better, I have 450 DVDs on a hard drive which you are welcome to if you want, can copy them into something and send em up.

NordieBoy

9th November 2011, 17:01

But then for intiminators to be the case I just don't see how they could lock out. The bike's weight may have closed them, but then the energy coming up from the wheel should have re-opened them. Shame we can't see what the front wheel did in the video - ie how the forks worked.

The brake line'll tell you what the forks are doing.
The front is responding to the rocks nicely and then as it hits the face of the rut on the angle, blows through most of its travel, gets airborne off the top of it and that looks to be about when the rear would be at the bottom of the rut. The turning of the bars is speeding the transition of the bike over to the right (fmx whip style) and the front wheel looks to hit at full right lock. You can see the line move again as it hits.

Splat! Ouch!

bart

9th November 2011, 18:33

Yeah, bad luck Eddie. crap time of year to be out of action.

I was thinking 'highside'. Pretty rare offroad (but plausable in there where there are seams of papa clay running down the track). Back end slips then grips, compresses suspension, pogos back, throws you off the seat. Often ends up sending you over the bars. I struggle to see how else your foot got stuck there.

My 2c

edit: just had another look, and I don't think it's that complex. Crossed up in a rut at speed and lost it.

sudman

9th November 2011, 18:35

gav24

9th November 2011, 18:54

Damn that Mungy Papa clay, as anyone who has ever ridden in there will know it is bloody lethal - and so unpredictable!
I had a bad break on the same side 6 months after a clean break about 2 cms below it, and now have 6screws, a metal plate and a detailed knowledge of Palmerston North hospital over christmas week! Anyway one of those 2 breaks was caused by the bike, only a little husky wr125, which had an extended subframe under the rear fender to support the lights, landing on my leg - was a pretty big crash as well. This always makes me nervous when I crash or nearly crash the DR off road with those bloody solid rear handles sticking out like they do. Just waiting to grab, twist, smash etc an unwary flailing limb! Seems that its not an unreasonable fear after all...:shit:
Hey you should be right in no time if you avoided surgery, and hopefully any tendon/ligament damage. I was riding 5 weeks after the first break, the doc agreed to cut the cast off after 4 and a 1/2 weeks so I wouldnt miss the 1st round of the british enduro series. Was a bit sore though for another 2 weeks after that. New years looks good for the next ride then... Mungies, Pram track?:eek:

Get well soon eddie!

PS. I found that I could ride my mountainbike pretty well once I was in a short cast like yours, just a bit of folded up cardboard duct taped to the bottom to grip the pedals and not munch up the cast, and a velcro strap to attach the crutches to the top tube! Also dont ever, ever, ever get the cast wet with sea water. It stinks like you would not believe in less than a day! ha ha:no:

NordieBoy

9th November 2011, 19:44

I have little time for intiminators had them in my race bikes and found they would lock given the right set of circumstances most of the time under hard cornering, found a guy that used to do suspension work back in late 70's, change main hole sizes to smaller ones and add four 2mm holes up the tube, added 20 weight oil and the forks are the best they have ever been.
I spent the best part of year playing with the intiminators (YSS brand) changing oils and settings, I will be changing the damper rods in my DR as per my race bikes spec's.

The YSS PD Valves are copies of the RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators.
Ricor Intiminators are a completely different beast other than the fact they all sit on top of the damper rod.

I had YSS ones in my '79 XR250. What a difference :niceone:

Woodman

9th November 2011, 20:07

Sometimes ya just crash.

On intotallmunters, I have found that front end type washout crashes have dramatically decreased since I have had them installed. In fact to me its their best feature.

Get well soon.

Monstaman

9th November 2011, 21:14

Sometimes ya just crash.

Yeap just that, sometimes shit just does happen, WP, Ohlins, Penske or whatever, psycho analyse all of it and sometimes slippery shit with an off camber face etc ....

Get well soon.

And that!! :niceone:

Eddieb

9th February 2012, 19:52

Well I'm getting more mobile so it's back into the DR farkling again. Not long before my accident I tried fitting a FCR39 carb but when I connected it up to the tank to set up the accelerator pump I discovered it leaked everywhere.

While I've been out of action a rebuild kit arrived from ProCycle and tonight I fitted that to the carb. The rebuild kit basically consists of a float bowl o-ring, carb top o-ring and a new float bowl piston thingy(technical term).

I've fitted the rebuild kit tonight and the leak from the float bowl has stopped, but that has shown that it's also leaking from the accelerator pump cover. The pump cover is a metal mating surface with no o-ring to seal it. Having a look at the surface I can see some score marks on the carb surface which are near, but not exactly where the worst of the leak is. The leak occurs when the pump does it's thing and squirts out from between the 2 parts.

1) It didn't really come out but the scoring is above the 858 on the pump diaphragm to the right of the threaded hole, but the leak appears to be at 9 oclock where the diagional hole is
2) It seems I am also missing part # 52 from this piece as shown in the exploded diagram, but I have my suspicions that it was actually there when I removed the cover and went awol while the cover was off
257177 257178 257179

Any ideas? I'm almost ready to flag fitting it and staying with the stock BST40 at this stage. Would there be any advantage in disabling the pump and fitting the carb by removing the pump rod or something?

NordieBoy

9th February 2012, 20:05

The diaphragm and o-ring are the seals.

NordieBoy

9th February 2012, 20:07

Would there be any advantage in disabling the pump and fitting the carb by removing the pump rod or something?

On quicker throttle openings, it'd go very lean.

I can check my spare carb and see what condition the cover, o-ring and diaphragm are in...

Eddieb

9th February 2012, 20:14

The diaphragm and o-ring are the seals.

So what does part 52 do? it's not an o-ring, more like a plastic washer with a hole in it.

When the pump is pressed there's more fuel coming out of the bottom of the carb than is getting sprayed into the carb, like a lot of fuel.

zeRax

9th February 2012, 20:15

you have a SPARE fcr fran? what a hordieboy :D

Tony W

9th February 2012, 20:16

Would a holed diaphragm cause this leaking?

Eddieb

9th February 2012, 20:19

On quicker throttle openings, it'd go very lean.

I can check my spare carb and see what condition the cover, o-ring and diaphragm are in...

That would be cool if you could see what is in the hole in the cover. The cover looks fine, though there are slight polishing marks on them from manufacture if you move it under a light. The diaphragm looks fine too and is certainly producing a fair bit of pressure as the leak is spraying out of the carb, not just dribbling down the side of it.
The marks on the body are really what concerns me, they look quite deep though I can't really feel them with my finger, and the missing piece of course.

GSers

9th February 2012, 21:07

Eddie you can surface the accelerator pump housing take out the spring and use a fine sheet of sand paper 600 grit on a piece of glass (garage window etc) move it around on the glass in a figure 8 then clean it out and blow off with compressed air. This will help remove those groves and make sure the surface is flat across all the retaining screw surface. Make sure the jet where the fuel is supposed to come out in the venturi is not blocked if it is then that could be a reason it is blowing out the side of the housing. There should be to check valves in the circuit that is one in that bottom housing the ball bearing in the hole. make sure they are also both free.
Hows the ankle by the way?
GSers

Eddieb

9th February 2012, 21:17

NordieBoy

9th February 2012, 21:24

you have a SPARE fcr fran? what a hordieboy :D

Yammy racer one that doesn't have a leak jet or enrichener.
Good for spares though.

cooneyr

9th February 2012, 21:30

Might be a dumb question - never opened a FCR before. Whats the outter diameter of the little O-ring in comparison to the hole that part 52 would sit in? Is part 52 needed for the O-ring to seal against? The outer edge of hole on the cover is very thin for the O-ring to seal against.

Hope this makes sense, and helps.

Cheers R

NordieBoy

10th February 2012, 07:14

So what does part 52 do? it's not an o-ring, more like a plastic washer with a hole in it.

When the pump is pressed there's more fuel coming out of the bottom of the carb than is getting sprayed into the carb, like a lot of fuel.

It's known as "U-Ring" in the parts manuals.

Eddieb

10th February 2012, 19:22

It's known as "U-Ring" in the parts manuals.

Thanks Fran. Sudco stock all the replacement bits in that part of the carb, in theory if I replaced the o ring, diaphragm and u-ring should the leak go away?

NordieBoy

10th February 2012, 20:23

Thanks Fran. Sudco stock all the replacement bits in that part of the carb, in theory if I replaced the o ring, diaphragm and u-ring should the leak go away?

In theory.

Eddieb

12th February 2012, 15:10

So I've moved on from the carb for the moment as I have other goodies to play with from before my accident.

A Galfer braided line went on yesterday which I had sourced from Procycle a while ago and there's still a 43 tooth rear sprocket sitting downstairs to go on. I've also got a new handgrip mounted up to a 1/4 throttle tube to go on.

I'm think of naming my bike The Tarts Handbag, or Mutton, as in 'Dressed as lamb'. With all the shit I've bolted onto it it's still a DR and I'll still be slow as fuck but what the hell. They are almost as much fun playing with in the garage and it's all I can do at the moment.

Aslan

12th February 2012, 16:19

NordieBoy

12th February 2012, 16:27

pete-blen

12th February 2012, 17:01

Welcome to the dark side :devil2:

May get an R1 throttle tube myself one day.

prob not what yer after...
i done this to my bike... made for a smoother
less twithy throttle at low opening..
A veriable ratio thottle..

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?p=154983#post154983

Eddieb

12th February 2012, 17:02

prob not what yer after...
i done this to my bike... made for a smoother
less twithy throttle at low opening..
A veriable ratio thottle..

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?p=154983#post154983

We can't see that url without being members.

pete-blen

12th February 2012, 17:13

We can't see that url without being members.

Ok..
heres a couple of pics...
should get the idea...

It dosn't look like it would do a lot..
prob more noticeable on the XT because
of the surging issues...

NordieBoy

12th February 2012, 17:46

prob not what yer after...
i done this to my bike... made for a smoother
less twithy throttle at low opening..
A veriable ratio thottle..

The DR has a nice deep groove all around.
The R1 one doesn't - faster action.

Eddieb

14th February 2012, 21:12

Woohoo! I had my first ride today since breaking my ankle, just a very short one round the block. 6-8km's maybe.

I took the old yellow bike out (George to Nordie) as the new blue bike is still in pieces from multiple failed attempts at installing a FCR39.

George's battery was flat and had been pretty much dead before he was parked up so the battery was stripped out of the blue bike and installed. The next issue was fuel, the tank only had a couple of litres in it at most and I think it had gone bad. The bike would wind over and occasionally splutter but I only got it to start once before flattening the newer battery and it ran really rough. It definately wasn't firing on every revolution.
A quick trip to the local garage for 5 litres of fresh 95 and with that George fired right up and sat there with his usual lumpy idle. Once the bike was running it was straight back to the garage as the tires had bugger all air in them, enough to need to press the little 'inflate from empty' button on the air machine.

Finally after all that a quick lap around the block indicated the ankle was doing ok, but the leg in general was a bit weak, and that my new boots still don't have enough flex worn in yet to easily get under the gear lever. According to my physio I shouldn't be riding for another 3 weeks or so as if I come off there's still a decent risk of redoing the injury in a worse way.

Howie

14th February 2012, 21:43

Woohoo! I had my first ride today since breaking my ankle, just a very short one round the block. 6-8km's maybe.

Thats good to hear Eddie, At least you can see the finish line.

What sort of boots did you buy? I'm in the market for some new ones, But not sure what to get, Although I do want plenty of protection in them.

Eddieb

14th February 2012, 22:13

Thats good to hear Eddie, At least you can see the finish line.

What sort of boots did you buy? I'm in the market for some new ones, But not sure what to get, Although I do want plenty of protection in them.

I actually bought some FLY Trekkers like MarkS often wears about 9 months ago when they were on special, in anticipation that at some stage my boots would wear out and need replacing.

dino3310

14th February 2012, 22:23

nice one Eddie, maybe a few road trips while you build strengh back up in ya hoof

Eddieb

16th February 2012, 20:14

nice one Eddie, maybe a few road trips while you build strengh back up in ya hoof

I'm doing a bit of cycling/cruisy mountain biking at the moment to build up strength in the leg. Have done 24km so far this week with another 15km or so through Karangahake Gorge planned for tomorrow.

I needed to get a new battery seeing as I only had one good one between 2 bikes so I popped into TSS Motorcycles in Alicetown and they did me a good deal on one of those new Yellow MotoBatt batteries. That will go into the Blue DR and George can keep the factory one from the blue bike.

dino3310

16th February 2012, 21:26

good stuff that biking, im walkin every night and do a bit of BMX and mountain bike stuff with the kids. ankle still aint right i doubt it ever will be but its good enough to go YEEE HAAA on the XR

Benjah

18th February 2012, 13:08

Good to hear your back on your feet Eddie.

Night Falcon

18th February 2012, 16:16

Great to hear ya making a good recovery Eddie. Took me a few rides to get comfortable on my bike again and I'm still nervous about dropping it in the rough stuff so tend to ride a bit slower. Its also amazing how much fitness you lose/need to make up when you havn't been riding for a while, the cross trainer was well used...for a while anyway :innocent:

Eddieb

11th March 2012, 22:10

Went for my first proper ride yesterday on 'George' the old DR. 250km's of road and light gravel work, It was awesome.

Today a 43 tooth sprocket was fitted to the rear of the new DR and a current Rego sticker added. Hopefully my shock will arrive back this week and I can put it all back together and make sure it's all good to go for the South Island trip at the end of this month.

dino3310

12th March 2012, 19:19

:woohoo:Sweet bro glad to hear your back on the saddle:Punk:

dino3310

13th March 2012, 20:00

speaking of feet
259710
:laugh::facepalm:

Eddieb

13th March 2012, 20:18

speaking of feet
259710
:laugh::facepalm:

Oh shit, what did you do?

dino3310

13th March 2012, 20:54

another back yard blunder, mark would say "i did a Dino" :lol:
nothing major just a teeny tiny fracture on one of the small bones in me foot, couple of weeks i'll be sweet.
i took the back slab off and chucked my old moon boot back on tonight way better to get around on, lecky leg on the XR would be nice about now

Eddieb

14th March 2012, 20:04

NordieBoy

14th March 2012, 20:40

With the 7.6kg/mm spring and 90kg me, I'm running 15% static and 30% race sag.

Yours sounds like 14% :yes: and 17% :no:

Too heavy spring unless you carry a backpack with 50kg of crap in it on rides.

The RaceTech calculator has gone to the dogs with it's recommendations these days.

Although it may work fine after breaking in.

Eddieb

15th March 2012, 19:42

I got my reshimmed shock back today and have fitted it back on the bike. I'm a bit confused with setting up the sag though with the heavier 8.3? Eibach spring I have, Damping is set at halfway, 12 clicks from either end.

Working with the passenger footpeg unloaded height is ~590mm
I was trying to get settings of approx ~20mm static sag and 85-100mm race sag, but I'm getting static sag at ~510mm and race sag ~490mm. I would have expected a much smaller difference between the unloaded and static settings and a much greater difference between Static and race sag.

Increasing or reducing preload doesn't seem to change the ratio of the differences.

Am I doing something wrong or is it a case of incorrect spring rate?

So I think I was doing it wrong, and I didn't really understand what I was working out, which is about situation normal. Some more examining, reading and head scratching and I think I have it.

First off the spring appears to be a 7.6kg spring, I had my numbers wrong but when I looked at the spring tonight I saw it's markings

The DR shock has 9 inches of travel, which in real money is ~228mm.
For Nordie's figures of 15% static and 30% race sag that would mean I need 34.5mm and 69mm of sag respectively.

When I started measuring last night I was using the rear footpegs to the ground, which according to everything I've now read isn't really correct, it's too far forward for a start. The idea is to use the rear axle & a constant point somewhere on the bike above the axle. Seeing as I am doing this alone it was a bit awkward but tonight I've found a point on my pannier frames that should suffice for now, though really I think it's still on too much of an angle.

So my figures from tonight are as below, this is without the seat or tank fitted so that may cause things to drop a little, at the moment I'm just trying to get it back together for going for the South Island trip in 2 weeks where it will be loaded up a bit as well so that will pull the figures more into line. Long term I think I will have to drop it some more though for solo riding.

Unloaded: 565mm
Static sag: 545mm - 20mm/230mm of travel = 8.77% sag
Race sag: 515mm - 50mm/230mm of travel = 21.92% sag

NordieBoy

15th March 2012, 19:59

Unloaded: 565mm
Static sag: 545mm - 20mm/230mm of travel = 8.77% sag
Race sag: 515mm - 50mm/230mm of travel = 21.92% sag

Sounds better.
With a load, that 9% would come closer to 15% and the race sag would be closer to 28%. About right.

Also means you can slack off the preload and get the static closer to 15% and the race should be in the 30% ballpark.

Eddieb

15th March 2012, 21:27

It's fricken tall though, I have about the same amount of ground contact as I did on the 950, but there's 50kg less. That might take a bit of getting used to again. An inch lower would be nice.

NordieBoy

16th March 2012, 06:41

It's fricken tall though, I have about the same amount of ground contact as I did on the 950, but there's 50kg less. That might take a bit of getting used to again. An inch lower would be nice.

Crank the preload out then. Another 20mm (about 1mm per turn of the collar) should be doable.

Eddieb

16th March 2012, 21:00

Crank the preload out then. Another 20mm (about 1mm per turn of the collar) should be doable.

I slacked off the preload some more, my measuring stick wasn't that accurate as it was done while fitted to the bike with the airbox etc all in place so ended up being a little too much ;) The numbers are now:

Unloaded: 565mm
Static sag: 514mm - 51mm/230mm of travel = 22.17% sag
Race sag: 489mm - 76mm/230mm of travel = 33.04% sag

However this doesn't feel like it's given any more ground contact, maybe the differences are too small to be noticeable.

I took the bike for it's first ride this evening since the accident and discovered that even though I thought I'd eyeballed everything the forks are significantly twisted in the clamps and the front brakes have zero stopping power. The forks should be an easy fix and luckily I have a spare set of new pads still in the box, I figure as careful as I was I must have spilt some brake fluid on them or something when I replaced the brake line.

For the ride the bike was on yesterdays sag settings and it was pretty good around the streets. The re shim has made a huge difference and it was riding very nice over all potholes and bumps I could find. It's possibly a little hard given that it's riding very nice with no damping wound on at all. I don't know if that's the sort of thing that 'settles in' a little with a bit of initial use after a rebuild or not? It's extremely nice and worlds better than before the rebuild but I usually like to dial in a little plushness and there's no room for that at present.

Over the weekend I'll straighten the forks, replace the pads and then take it out with the new settings and see what happens and whether I want/need to crank it back up closer to the 15%/30% figures.

I also need to adjust the scottoiler outlet as it's lubing the center of the sprocket, not the chain.

Eddieb

17th March 2012, 10:43

I went for a ride down to TSS this morning as it turned out my spare pads were rears not fronts. Picked up a new set and fitted them and adjusted the front forks to something hopefully resembling straight and changed the Scottoiler setup so that hopefully the oil will end up on the chain.

I'm liking the current sag settings. I think it will stay like that for a while till I gt a chance to ride over something a little rougher and see how it handles that.

While in the garage I also fitted one of the Rotopax kits I was lucky enough to pick up off ADVGD a month or 2 back to see how they work.

259847

Eddieb

25th March 2012, 20:50

Played with the sag a bit more and rode the bike a bit more. I've decided the rear shock is pretty bloody good, in fact it makes the Intiminators feel pretty average. While the Intiminators are a big improvement in terms of road holding and reduction of brake dive I'm finding mine very harsh at city speeds, to the point where they are uncomfortably harsh at times.

In contrast the rear shock is bliss, I think my initial misgivings about it was more my state of mind returning to riding after my accident and still very anxious about how my foot as going to cope rather than any shortcomings of the shock rebuild. The rear of the bike feels so smooth, at least with about 5kg of weight on the back anyway. My trip today had a full 3.8ltr Rotopax bolted on and a bit of stuff in the top box.

I managed to get the forks pretty close to straight, but the Scottoiler still isn't working. If I set it to prime it flows freely but on anything less than that it doesn't flow at all.

I also filled the bike up and worked the economy out at 14.5km/l. I almost had a heart attack until I remembered this was still the same tank as my accident, and I dumped a fair bit then.

NordieBoy

25th March 2012, 21:04

Sounds like the Scottie vacuum isn't working.
Quite ready to lighten the Intiminators action with a shim adjustment.

Eddieb

19th May 2012, 21:17

A few niggling health issues mean I haven't got any riding in since the South Island Invasion except one trip to Box'a'bits house, however I've still been working on a few things on the side.

One of those was obtaining a set of 43mm 2002 DRZ250 cartridge forks with adjustable damping and rebound. The DRZ250 forks slide straight into the 650 clamps and use the same axle, spacers, speedo drive and caliper as the 650, but requires either the 250 wheel and disc, or a brake caliper adapter bracket for the 650 wheel as the 250 uses a 250mm disc and the 650 290mm, also the disc offset is approx 1-2mm different.

So a visit to my local friendly engineer resulted in this...

263861

The forks still need respringing but I've bolted them in to test fit everything before I went too far.

dino3310

19th May 2012, 21:59

nice one bro looks good

pete376403

20th May 2012, 11:18

Eddieb

20th May 2012, 11:29

Suspension modifications, steering modifications and brake modifications - engineers certification would seem to be a requirement if you want to *legally* use this on the road.
Either you'll need a friendly WOF issuer or it looks standard enough for the testers at VTNZ, etc not to notice.

Will watch with interest 'cos I'd like to do similar with the KLR (YZF USD front end).

I did the popular RF900 caliper upgrade to my GS PD which involves a bracket on only one of the caliper bolts to space the caliper out, I did 3 WOF's on that without issue.
263865

Box'a'bits doesn't seem to have had any problems with his YZ upgrade so far.

As it happens the mechanic from my local dealer where I usually get my wof's done walked into the engineers as I was picking up the forks/wheel with the new bracket fitted so he knows it's there.

I don't use VTNZ anymore, most of the ones near me don't have anyone that can do bikes, and the one that does will never see my business again after failing a bike but not being able to explain in plain english why, and then getting really short with me because I insisted he explained it in terms I understood so that I could get it dealt with, and he couldn't without using engineering terms I wasn't familiar with.

If it becomes an issue I have all the original parts and none of those have been altered, it would take less than 30 minutes to refit the stock forks again. I also have a RMX250 front wheel with a 250mm disc. I'm yet to offer that up but it should slot in to the DRZ forks and caliper without the bracket as long as the disc offset is the same as the DRZ.

Woodman

20th May 2012, 11:31

NordieBoy

20th May 2012, 18:16

As long as you're going the same or stronger then there shouldn't be an issue.

It's like re-powering a bike. No issue unless the new engine is more powerful than the original.

Eddieb

1st July 2012, 20:58

So I finally got around to fitting my FCR carb today, are they all really nosy? I haven't got the airbox on yet but have the intake pipe and the clattering is so loud it almost drowns out the exhaust.

Also got my new 50mm bar riser installed though it required a lot of cable rerouting, my attempt at putting new springs into the DRZ 250 forks failed as the fork caps would only unscrew about 1/3 - 1/2 of the way then there would be an audible and feelable click on each rotation and it wouldn't undo any further. Not sure if/what I was doing wrong.

NordieBoy

2nd July 2012, 10:03

So I finally got around to fitting my FCR carb today, are they all really nosy? I haven't got the airbox on yet but have the intake pipe and the clattering is so loud it almost drowns out the exhaust.

Not nosy at all, not noisy either...

Although they do have a cool whistle to them on throttle close.
It's the blow off valve for the FCR's turbo unit.

Eddieb

2nd July 2012, 11:03

Not nosy at all, not noisy either...

Although they do have a cool whistle to them on throttle close.
It's the blow off valve for the FCR's turbo unit.

mmm, wonder whats going on with mine then. I'll try to take a video as it's REALLY clattery.

Also it revs pretty freely but doesn't drop down to idle again straight away, there's a few seconds delay. I couldn't get the return cable set up with enough tension for it to pull the throttle fully closed so it's relying on the spring only. I also had to extend the adjuster for the pull cable near the bars to almost full extension to get enough tension in that cable.

Eddieb

2nd July 2012, 18:35

NordieBoy

2nd July 2012, 20:40

mmm, wonder whats going on with mine then. I'll try to take a video as it's REALLY clattery.

Also it revs pretty freely but doesn't drop down to idle again straight away, there's a few seconds delay. I couldn't get the return cable set up with enough tension for it to pull the throttle fully closed so it's relying on the spring only. I also had to extend the adjuster for the pull cable near the bars to almost full extension to get enough tension in that cable.

The return cable has to be loose. Any tension at all and it'll be slow to return.
It's only there for emergency situations.

NordieBoy

2nd July 2012, 20:41

The best example of the noise is as I walk up to the bike in the first few seconds. The motor is cold but the revs increase significantly when the choke is turned off.

I think that'd quiet down quite a bit once the airbox is connected.

Magnum Noel

2nd July 2012, 20:52

I think that'd quiet down quite a bit once the airbox is connected.

I agree sounds normal to me. Actually bike sounds sweeeet:woohoo:

Eddieb

2nd July 2012, 21:11

Guess I'll have to bolt it up again and take it out for a run and see how it goes.

Phreaky Phil

4th July 2012, 18:02

The best example of the noise is as I walk up to the bike in the first few seconds. The motor is cold but the revs increase significantly when the choke is turned off.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/X5an2OI1FKM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Apparently that sound is the Turbo :2thumbsup It seems annoying at first but you get used to it. What jets, needle position are you running ?

Eddieb

4th July 2012, 18:11

Apparently that sound is the Turbo :2thumbsup It seems annoying at first but you get used to it. What jets, needle position are you running ?

:) I don't mind the whistle etc I just didn't expect a carb to make that much rattling.

MX-Rob standard FCR jetting kit set up as per his instructions.

Phreaky Phil

6th July 2012, 17:49

You might find MXRob jetting is way to rich for NZ. I fitted an Innovate MTXL fuel air guage to see what was going on. I was in the 9's. 12.5 is beat for power. 14.2 is best economy although I dont think you could get a DR running that lean. With my EMP needle changed to top position, with the 1/2mm shim still under and a 150 main i'm running around 12.5 but still need a bit of work in the 0-1/4 throttle range. That changed my kmpl from 14-15 to 19-20. (2up and gear) could probably get a bit better still. I have an EMR needle to try and some other pilots for after the TAT. I have put it back to MXRob jetting for that. I just fitted a R&D flex idle jet from Procycle because I didnt like the MXrob adjustable one. I seemed to easy to turn and I had heard of them undoing. There was a tread on DR riders about Aus/NZ jetting. Aus fuel must be the same as ours. Will be interesting to see if MXRob jetting is right for our bike when we get to the States

Eddieb

6th July 2012, 17:56

Thanks Phil, 14-15 is pretty bad.

I haven't ridden mine yet, hopefully this weekend I'll take it for a trial run.

Eddieb

7th July 2012, 11:57

So the DR is all back together ready for a trial run, interestingly the revs go down when the choke is pulled on when cold, and go up when it's off. Re fitting the airbox has completely muffled the clattering the carb makes.

Sounds like the Scottie vacuum isn't working.
I hooked the Scotty up to the FCR and it seems to be working fine now. Must have been a leak or lack of vacuum or something in the BST setup, I just unplugged the tube from one and plugged it into the other

On another note, given that Intiminators are effectively an interference fit in the forks, how does one go about removing them?

On a 3rd note, My new to me m/c trailer has just arrived for when I trailer queen the DR to the Tron, so I don't have to blag Box'a'bits one all the time.

NordieBoy

7th July 2012, 14:25

On another note, given that Intiminators are effectively an interference fit in the forks, how does one go about removing them?
Like this...
<img height=640 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20111028%20Intiminators/slides/20111108%20Still%20More%20Intiminating1.jpg>

<img width=640 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20111028%20Intiminators/slides/20111108%20Still%20More%20Intiminating2.jpg>

NordieBoy

7th July 2012, 14:39

On a 3rd note, My new to me m/c trailer has just arrived for when I trailer queen the DR to the Tron, so I don't have to blag Box'a'bits one all the time.

All Trailer Queens should really have ones own trailer.

Box'a'bits

7th July 2012, 18:24

On a 3rd note, My new to me m/c trailer has just arrived for when I trailer queen the DR to the Tron, so I don't have to blag Box'a'bits one all the time.
Mandy wants to know who'll pay for the WoF's now? :crazy: Anyone want to borrow a trailer once every a six monthly basis? Next due Dec

Did the trailer come with a spare wheel?

Eddieb

7th July 2012, 18:55

Mandy wants to know who'll pay for the WoF's now? :crazy: Anyone want to borrow a trailer once every a six monthly basis? Next due Dec

Did the trailer come with a spare wheel?

I had thought about who's going to wof it now.

Yes it did, and there's outfit 5 minutes from my place that sells replacement ones also.

Eddieb

17th July 2012, 14:34

FCR's make you go Woohoo!

Like this...

What do you call that doodad and where do you get one from? grasper gave lots of results on google but nothing on trade me.

NordieBoy

17th July 2012, 14:55

What do you call that doodad and where do you get one from? grasper gave lots of results on google but nothing on trade me.

Long-bendy-pickup-thing.

Mitre10/Bunnings/SuperCheap have them.

Eddieb

5th August 2012, 15:33

Long-bendy-pickup-thing.

Thanks Nordie

I got a Long-bendy-pickup-thing from Supercheap and today pulled the Intiminators out of the stock forks, the Long-bendy-pickup-thing worked a charm. I then refilled the stock forks with some 15w and refitted those onto the DR so I can pull the DRZ forks apart. Unfortunately bike time is a bit irregular at the moment though.

Here's the 2 sets of forks side by side for reference

267643

NordieBoy

5th August 2012, 19:00

Here's the 2 sets of forks side by side for reference

That's quite bloody close.

Axle sizes?

Eddieb

5th August 2012, 20:53

That's quite bloody close.

Axle sizes?

650 axle, spacer, wheel, speedo drive & caliper are used. bracket required to space the caliper out 20mm.

NordieBoy

5th August 2012, 20:54

650 axle, spacer, wheel and Speedo drive are used. bracket required to space the caliper out 20mm.

Nice and simple.

Eddieb

12th August 2012, 19:48

Got some garage time today.

As the FCR is running way too rich I dropped the needle 2 notches to see what that would do. It needs completely rejetting but in the meantime anything that leans it out a bit is bound to be an improvement.

Also I recently picked and fitted up a Pro Moto alloy rear rack. The rack I previously had fitted must have been made in a dodgy jig or something as the mounts didn't line up well at all, and the topbox couldn't be mounted far enough back so was overhanging the rear seat which made it awkward to take pillions.
At the time I put the Pro Moto rack on I didn't have the grab rails on the bike or with me so today I pulled everything off and re fitted the grab rails, again so things are more pillion friendly.

268084

Lastly I fitted a Torpedo 7 hour meter/rev counter recently but it hasn't been picking up the revs properly so I rewired that, I'm still not sure it's working though.

268085

NordieBoy

13th August 2012, 17:50

I'm going to drop a 150 main in and lower the needle to 1 from top and see what happens...

Eddieb

13th August 2012, 18:04

I'm going to drop a 150 main in and lower the needle to 1 from top and see what happens...

Are you running the MX-Rob 155? Mine runs sweet on it but economy is ~16km/l.

NordieBoy

13th August 2012, 22:53

Are you running the MX-Rob 155? Mine runs sweet on it but economy is ~16km/l.
As far as I know, it's...
EMP needle 4th clip down + 0.5mm shim.
#40 Leak jet.
40 pilot jet.
155 main jet.

18-20km/l

pete-blen

14th August 2012, 15:40

Lastly I fitted a Torpedo 7 hour meter/rev counter recently but it hasn't been picking up the revs properly so I rewired that, I'm still not sure it's working though.

]

I have one of those... The re-fresh rate is to slow for any thing other than
constant rpms... Ok for finding out what rpms yer doing while cruseing
on the road...

Eddieb

14th August 2012, 17:36

I have one of those... The re-fresh rate is to slow for any thing other than
constant rpms... Ok for finding out what rpms yer doing while cruseing
on the road...

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

GSers

14th August 2012, 17:45

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

Hey Eddie what does it use for its pick up for counting the RPM. You could try wrapping a length of wire around the spark plug lead about 15-20mm long as in coiling it around the lead and using that for the pickup maybe worth a try.
GSers

Eddieb

14th August 2012, 18:08

Hey Eddie what does it use for its pick up for counting the RPM. You could try wrapping a length of wire around the spark plug lead about 15-20mm long as in coiling it around the lead and using that for the pickup maybe worth a try.
GSers

Funnily enough thats what it uses, though not that long. The instructions said 5 loops around the lead.

pete-blen

14th August 2012, 18:16

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

Have you got it set right... I think yer need setting 01 ??? for a single that sparks twice..
your bike also sparks on the ex stroke as well as the power stroke..

pete-blen

14th August 2012, 18:20

opps... double post

Eddieb

14th August 2012, 18:21

Have you got it set right... I think yer need setting S2 ??? for a single that sparks twice..
your bike also sparks on the ex stroke as well as the power stroke..

I'll have to have another look at it, I didnt see any buttons or anything to change settings

NordieBoy

14th August 2012, 18:32

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

Sounds like it's doing a divide by 2...

4stroke or 2stroke version?

pete-blen

14th August 2012, 18:42

mine has 2 buttons on the front.. marked S1 & S2...
Hold S1 for 4 secs..will bring up 3 settings 01 , 02 , 03 , 04
for diffrent fireing pattens...

01 = plug fires twice per revolution..
02 = plug fires once per revolution..
03 = plug fires every other revolution...
04 = hour meter..

Edit...
just had a look at T7 one..diffrent to mine.. no buttons..
think they sent you a 2 stroke one..

Eddieb

15th August 2012, 20:38

I'm going to drop a 150 main in and lower the needle to 1 from top and see what happens...

If you're not happy with the 150 FCR jet and want to shift it on I may be interested in it. My airbox was cut open when I got the bike but I opted for a hopefully more maintenance friendly setup where there's a hole about twice the size of the snorkel hole with a slope down over the filter so that dust is directly toward the side wall, so my bike is probably running even richer that others.

Edit...
just had a look at T7 one..diffrent to mine.. no buttons..
think they sent you a 2 stroke one..

Yep looks like it, just looked at their return policy and it'd cost what I paid for it to send it back I think.

GSers

16th August 2012, 11:47

If you're not happy with the 150 FCR jet and want to shift it on I may be interested in it. My airbox was cut open when I got the bike but I opted for a hopefully more maintenance friendly setup where there's a hole about twice the size of the snorkel hole with a slope down over the filter so that dust is directly toward the side wall, so my bike is probably running even richer that others.

An opened up air box will make the bike run leaner a standard airbox or restricted will make the mixture richer as will an oil soaked air filter element as apposed to a dryer element. Gearing will also make a big difference to your mixture requirements. Higher road gearing will require a richer mixture and lower off road gearing the mixture can be leaned down.
Sometimes what you are feeling can be deceptive. A to leaner mixture will mean that you are actually holding the throtle open wider that is actually required to get any go out of it and using more gas and a way to rich mixture can pop and carry on giving the symptoms that it is actually running to lean.
Just had a look at the YZ manual and they run a 162 main jet so on a 650 a 150 jet maybe to lean.
What throtle opening are you running at when you are crusing and using to much gas.
The pilot screw /pilot jet has a major effect from iddle to 1/8 throtle and then tappers of to 1/4 throtle. The throtle valve cutaway starts taking over from 1/8 throtle to 1/2 throtle. The jet needle starts from about 1/3 throtle to 2/3 and then the main jet kicks in from 2/3 throtle to full song of course they are overlapping through the hole range and then you also have the richening effect of the accelerator pump and your overide enrichening device to stop the popping on overrun.
Dont make to many changes at one time because you wont know which change had the most effect. Setting carbs when transplanted from another machine / engine can be a time consuming business and remember that your engine must be up to operating temperature each time you are making a comparison. Oil takes about 8kms to get to normal operating temperature.
If you dont have any luck once my shoulder is fixed and you fell like a ride up this way I could reserect my airfuel ratio meter in the shed and help you sort it out.
GSers

Crim

16th August 2012, 16:56

At a steady 100km's it reads about 2300rpm, where it should be up around 4000 somewhere.

Yep looks like it, just looked at their return policy and it'd cost what I paid for it to send it back I think.

No need to Eddie, me old mate - an easy KLR owners fix for you - get a bit of masking tape write "X2" on it and stick it just to the right of the display :killingme

Eddieb

16th August 2012, 17:39

An opened up air box will make the bike run leaner a standard airbox or restricted will make the mixture richer as will an oil soaked air filter element as apposed to a dryer element. Gearing will also make a big difference to your mixture requirements. Higher road gearing will require a richer mixture and lower off road gearing the mixture can be leaned down.

A number of us here and in Aus who have the FCR carbs are using a jetting setup put together after much testing by MX-Rob in the US, who pioneered fitting the DR with the FRC39 carb, however it turns out on proper NZ fuel it's too rich. Rob's setup is designed for a fully cut open airbox and pipe and it would seem on E10 fuel. The bikes run but economy is shocking. I'm currently returning 16km/l where a well setup FCR should return 19 minimum.

Phreaky Phil and a bunch of Aussies have been testing using seat of the pants and wideband tuning and everyone has come up with new settings by their own methods that have turned out to be are very close to each other.

MX_Rob vrs Kiwi/Aus Riders

Main Jet: 155 vrs 150
Pilot jet 40 vrs 38
Leak jet 35 vrs 35
Idle fuel mixture is generally accepted as at least 1.25 turns out, mine won't idle at all unless the screw is less than .75 of a turn, and at .5 it idles not too bad, on the FCR it's a fuel mixture screw, not an air mixture screw.

My bike is piped but doesn't have the fully cut airbox, As I'm after a balance of performance and maintenance I've opted for about 1/4 cut and a slope to protect the air filter so mine would be sucking in less air than what the MX-Rob jetting is designed for.

GSers

16th August 2012, 19:31

Yep so you havent said how much throttle opening that you are using for highway crusing.
If you have the std / what everyone is using pilot jet and you have to turn the pilot adjustment in so that it is 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn out from fully in then you have trouble with your float level / needle and seat you will need to check these. Sounds like the float is to high.
Usually if you hold up the carb body with pivot point for the float at the top and the float hanging with the needle in against its seat the float should be parralell with the body of the carb I will see if I can find a measurement for the FCR.
The idle screw would usually be between 1 - 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed this is pretty std on most carbs.
As for the main jet that is only half of the equation you have to remember that there is a needle that goes through the centre of the orifice that this jet feeds there are several different needles that are listed in the yamaha manual. That is not only that they have different tappers but also have different diameters for the parralell part or the top of the needle altering the clip position alters where and at what position of throttle opening the the needle changes from the parralell part of the needle to the tappered part all affecting fuel economy and perfomance.
As for E10 fuel
QUOTE Today, E10 is sold in every state. In fact, more than 95% of U.S. gasoline contains up to 10% ethanol to boost octane.
The Octane Rating of E10 is 94 but normally with ethanol / methanoll if you run it straight you use twice as much to get the same bang for your buck so with a 10% mixture you would probably need a slightly bigger jet than say if you where running on straight 95 petrol.
Good luck with getting it sorted. I doubt that your air box setup will be affecting your settings as any restrictions are usually associated with hard acceleration from idle and full song. Only one other thing you could look at is if your snorkle is out in the main air flow and pressurising the airbox at open road speeds then the vent for the fuel float chamber must have the same air pressure applied to it.
Its to do with atmospheric pressure applied across the surface of the fuel in the carb pushes the fuel through the jets given they have vacuum on the intake side.
Check the float level.
GSers with to much spare time.

Eddieb

16th August 2012, 20:42

Highway cruising at 100km I'm using probably about 1/3 throttle I think, I'll need to make a note of checking next time I'm out on it.

Float height for the FCR when fitted to a DR is accepted at 9mm, it is possible I've got that wrong as I did forget to double check that before I fitted the carb.
I did different parts of the jetting and setup months apart while waiting for parts to arrive. It's a bit of a dog to check due to how much needs removing to get the carb out.

There's lots of discussion going on with needles, there doesn't seem to be any decision on what works best overall yet.

Eddieb

5th September 2012, 08:35

On the way home from Cold Kiwi I did North Range Road, it was a bit wet.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Gq2OFARNnow" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Dropping the needle 2 notches has improved my fuel economy from ~16km/l to about ~18km/l on the open road.

Box'a'bits

5th September 2012, 17:54

On the way home from Cold Kiwi I did North Range Road, it was a bit wet.
Enjoyed riding along with you through North Range Rd. :yes: And your little comments along the way...Looked like fun

Eddieb

13th September 2012, 11:00

Float height for the FCR when fitted to a DR is accepted at 9mm, it is possible I've got that wrong as I did forget to double check that before I fitted the carb.
I did different parts of the jetting and setup months apart while waiting for parts to arrive. It's a bit of a dog to check due to how much needs removing to get the carb out.

Dropping the needle 2 clips just before the Cold Kiwi trip moved the Fuel Economy from ~16km/l to 18km/l. I've now picked up a 38 Pilot and 150 main jets so I'll fit those this weekend. I pulled the carb last Sunday and checked the float height. it was about 6mm so I have now adjusted that to 9mm. I also want to check the pump setup as i think I may have that going off a little late.

GSers

13th September 2012, 18:01

Yeah sorry Eddie, didn't get back on that one. Float height on all FCR is 9mm thats a big difference at 6mm I would reset the float and try it before changing the jets again.
If you think about it with the carb up the correct way and imagine the bowl full of fuel the level will run across not far below the hole that the needle sits in 3mm higher and it would be just about running out into the venturi.
You should probably find the idle adjustment will be closer to spec.
Good Luck
GSers

Eddieb

16th September 2012, 20:11

Nordie, did you fit the 150 main jet to your FCR?

I have fitted the 150 to mine and lifted the needle up 2 slots to the central slot. I'm happy with how it's responding on the jet. A test run, on closed roads of course, saw the bike run up to an indicated speed about 20km/h faster than what it would do when the 155 was in there.

I also fitted the 38 pilot at the same time and I'm having similar issues with getting the idle sorted as I did with the 50 pilot, though I've not had time to play with it much.

NordieBoy

16th September 2012, 21:36

I'll have to pull it apart some time and see what's in there.
I think it's mxrob's settings but with a #40 instead of #35 leak jet.

18-19 km/l.

Eddieb

23rd December 2012, 20:44

I'll have to pull it apart some time and see what's in there.
I think it's mxrob's settings but with a #40 instead of #35 leak jet.

18-19 km/l.

I'm pretty happy with the 150 main. I've been tinkering trying to get the idle sorted but the bike runs smoothly throughout the rev range off idle. I came out of my sisters place today and was putting along at idle in first gear then opened it up and the front wheel came right up off the ground really easily. Big grins all round!

Aside from that I've fitted the DRZ 2540 cartridge forks after Box'a'bits gave me ,ots of assistance rebuilding them a few weeks ago. They are a big improvement but I am getting a sort of oscillating pogo effect at about 50-60km/h. It's not doing it at faster speeds. I've started with all the adjustments all the way out. Any ideas what it needs to address the pogo'ing?

I documented the forks over on ADVrider: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=842073