Eddieb's DR build thread.

[Eddieb]

As a lot of you have gathered I've gone and got a DR, in fact a very cheap and cheerful DR.

232815232814

So what is it and what did I get for my money:

It's a '99 DR650
Purple frame has been powder coated yellow
Eibach stiffer rear spring
Ventura L brackets, rack and 2 bags
Pannier racks
Bash plate
Lever guards
GN250 center stand
Extra little screen
Service manual on CD
Service history
Other bits of paper I haven't looked at yet.
A random selection of basic tools.

The suspension is set on the low rider settings.

[Eddieb]

So DR's are cool little bikes and can go lots of places as stock but now it's time to make this one mine, hopefully make it better, or possibly just change some things cause I can.

This isn't going to be a Phreaky Phil style serious do-over, mainly cause i don't have Phil's workshop, his awesome skilz, or his budget, though I'm not below pillaging his left over and reject parts. It's going to be cheap and cheerful like the bike cause it's bound to get dinged and scratched, and cause I'm of Scottish descent and it's built into my genes.

So what do I want to do with it? here's the wishlist.

Raise the suspension back to the high settings
FCR carb
GSXR or similar pipe
Bar risers
Footpegs lowered
Big tank, IMS or Safari
Top box on the back
Remodel the seat if I can find a spare to butcher.
Possibly front fork springs if over time I feel they are lacking
Possibly rear valving work.
If I win lotto, a 780 kit.
Anything else I think of as I go along.

As it happens I purchased a FCR carb off Trade Me last week. It needs setting up which includes a little drilling for the return cable and a needle and jet kit but at least I have the carb.
It also sounds like there's a left over pipe at Phils place I can pillage, it's off a TL so is pretty long but will get things moving once I have a mid pipe for it.
Bar risers can easily be obtained from any decent bike shop, though I'll do some research on whether there's any that seem preferred, I'd like to get at least 25mm or maybe 30mm.
Footpeg lowering, adapters can be easily purchased or Nordie has a pdf somewhere with the design that I can take to a engineer and see how much they are to make.

[gav24]

Mine has the bar risers, well new clamps with fat bars, but the effect is the same, pipe and air filter with carb mods.
Not sure why people want to lower the pegs - especially with the soggy as suspension - seems like a recipe for broken toes off-road.
My next investment will be stiffer front springs and damping mods and a stiffer rear spring.
You will need the same, esp with that extra luggage capacity!
The carb would be nice - and so would the bigger tank, but maybe I have distant scottish ancestors as I keep thinking about the fuel consumption with the FCR carb and the 5 litre can bungied to the rear fender does the same job as an ims!:facepalm:

[Eddieb]

Not sure why people want to lower the pegs - especially with the soggy as suspension - seems like a recipe for broken toes off-road.
My next investment will be stiffer front springs and damping mods and a stiffer rear spring.
You will need the same, esp with that extra luggage capacity!

I found it too cramped when standing, also lowering them with brackets normally also moves them back which I felt I needed going over the Maungatapu, all of that could be hangovers from the bikes I've been riding previously, who knows but I like to ride standing a lot and wasn't comfortable as it is.

The stiffer rear spring fitted to mine has made a huge difference, it's way less bouncy than stock ones I've ridden and preload is only at ~75%, I might actually back it off some more as it felt a bit harsh loaded up. I haven't figured out what rate spring it is yet.

I've had more issues with the front tyre than the forks so far, the tyre is poked and falls into corners really badly. When I get a moment I'll pull it of and replace it with one I have in the garage then see what it feels like.

The Ventura gear will probably come off. I took my Wolfman bags over with my weekends gear, gps, tank bag, tie downs etc in it, and the Ventura bags were already on it but they are empty. The Wolfman bags sit on the pannier racks perfectly.

[Eddieb]

Let the farkling begin!

The first job started after riding over the Maungatapu, the previous owner had drilled 4 6mm holes in the rear of the stock exhaust, I've seen this on a few DR's, presumably to allow better flow.

The problem with this was that every time I let the throttle off it sounded like someone was letting off wet farts right behind me, a high pitched pfffft! whistle that was quite annoying.

Nordie has done a fair bit of experimentation on this and had the same result on his bike with 6mm holes. In his considered opinion 8mm was the best compromise between power and noise, so 30 seconds with a drill and the holes were enlarged to 8mm.

This made a considerable difference in that it removed the annoying whistle made the bike sound much quieter from the riders seat.

[bart]

Nice one Eddie. I was very tempted to throw a bid on that bike also. Thought it might be good for spares at that price. :innocent:

[Squiggles]

Keen to see how the GN250 stand is mounted... happen to have 1 (or maybe 3?) under the house :shutup:

[NordieBoy]

Not sure why people want to lower the pegs - especially with the soggy as suspension - seems like a recipe for broken toes off-road.
Un-sog the suspension then.
The pegs are still well above the frame rails.
I was going to lower mine a bit more but with the new Zeta SX3 very high bend fat bars, I don't need to lower the pegs any more. The bars are slightly (10mm or so) too high seated, but standing whilst on the flat, climbing or descending is brilliant. Just need to modify the seat slightly to make it a little more narrow a bit further back before it widens out.


The carb would be nice - and so would the bigger tank, but maybe I have distant scottish ancestors as I keep thinking about the fuel consumption with the FCR carb and the 5 litre can bungied to the rear fender does the same job as an ims!:facepalm:
I get 18-19km/L with the FCR.
However with the BST I was getting 18-20km/L.

The IMS handles better than the 5L on the back though.

[gav24]

Un-sog the suspension then.
The pegs are still well above the frame rails.
I was going to lower mine a bit more but with the new Zeta SX3 very high bend fat bars, I don't need to lower the pegs any more. The bars are slightly (10mm or so) too high seated, but standing whilst on the flat, climbing or descending is brilliant. Just need to modify the seat slightly to make it a little more narrow a bit further back before it widens out.


I get 18-19km/L with the FCR.
However with the BST I was getting 18-20km/L.

The IMS handles better than the 5L on the back though.

Could be why I dont feel the need to lower the pegs with my high bend bars and 10mm higher clamps, also about 10mm forward from stock as well. Plus I'm only 5'9. I used "art trax" fat bar clamps and "Zeta" fat bars in a CR high bend. (There is also some awesome Renthal bends called Desert and Vintage. These are both real high and come in std dia. so wouldnt need the extra clamps, and the cross bar is useful for fitting future farkles.)

Glad to hear that the FCR doesnt make any real difference in km/L my wallet is loosening a little...:shit:

You're right about the handling - 5kgs + of extra weight does make my already soggy suspenders a bit more poo and put all the extra weight in the wrong place - especiallly just before you need the extra fuel when the main tank is getting low. Sketchy cornering at best on gravel:facepalm:

As for tyres I have been super pleased with my Michelin T63 - on offer from Cycletreads a while back, very round profile on rear for super quick turn in. Good value shipping as well.

[NordieBoy]

I run Renthal Classics on the '79 XR250.

[Eddieb]

Keen to see how the GN250 stand is mounted... happen to have 1 (or maybe 3?) under the house :shutup:

If your lucky I'll take a pic. While I haven't crawled under it yet it appears to be mounted to a flat plate which is bolted on at the footpeg mounts.

There's no spring return holding it up, it uses a state of the art red stripey bungy that wraps around the stand leg and hooks onto the pillion peg bracket.

[dino3310]

Hind sight you should just have brought joes :lol:

[Waihou Thumper]

Hind sight you should just have brought joes :lol:


Sssh! you bastard.....a lot of us might have considered that! It was set up wasn't it?
:yes:
Back then, oh, almost two years ago now, the Dr's in the North weren't as trendy.....
Now, our cousins across the ditch, Nordie and Tugboat and Phil have decided that KTM's are too heavy, but Dr's can hack the distance and the pressures of the GAFA (Great Auaaie F..k all) will and have been conquered....:gob:
Wicked!

[Eddieb]

Pics of the GN centerstand.

1 thing to be aware of. My bike is currently on the low suspension settings and the center stand only just lifts the bike off the ground, I'm not aware of whether the stand has been shortened or not but I suspect once I lift the bike back up to it's normal height it will be redundant.

[NordieBoy]

Pics of the GN centerstand.

1 thing to be aware of. My bike is currently on the low suspension settings and the center stand only just lifts the bike off the ground, I'm not aware of whether the stand has been shortened or not but I suspect once I lift the bike back up to it's normal height it will be redundant.
Or that you need to extend the legs a bit...

[JATZ]

You neeeed a welder you do :yes:

and a lathe and a drill press and a parts washer and a ..........

[Paladin]

Eddie gets a DR... now there's a turn up for the books!

:gob:

Have fun with the farklin bro!

Do you want a Transalp too????

:innocent:

[BMWST?]

so has the PD gone?

[Eddieb]

Eddie gets a DR... now there's a turn up for the books!

:gob:

Have fun with the farklin bro!

Do you want a Transalp too????

:innocent:


Whoa, you are still alive...

[Eddieb]

Nordie, what FCR jetting are you running, just wondering if I need the full MX_Rob kit of just the basic one.

[NordieBoy]

Nordie, what FCR jetting are you running, just wondering if I need the full MX_Rob kit of just the basic one.

Just the basic is fine.
Shane also says just dump the throttle return cable.

[Eddieb]

Just the basic is fine.
Shane also says just dump the throttle return cable.

Whats your opinion on that?

[Phreaky Phil]

Pics of the GN centerstand.

1 thing to be aware of. My bike is currently on the low suspension settings and the center stand only just lifts the bike off the ground, I'm not aware of whether the stand has been shortened or not but I suspect once I lift the bike back up to it's normal height it will be redundant.It looks like the center stand hangs lower than the frame rails ? What thickness is your bashplate, it looks thin in the picture. Iv'e made mine from 5mm. Ali doesnt way much !! Will look at buildind a center stand but its way down the list at the moment

[NordieBoy]

The only reason for the push cable is in case the slide sticks.
The fcr has rollers on the slide as well.
My XR race bike ran for 4 years with only the pull cable and got really choked up with mud without any issues.
My stock bst carb would stick closed occasionally but only after some extended high speed running.

If your carb return spring were to break, you'd be in the poo but how often does that happen?

[Eddieb]

It looks like the center stand hangs lower than the frame rails ? What thickness is your bashplate, it looks thin in the picture. Iv'e made mine from 5mm. Ali doesnt way much !! Will look at buildind a center stand but its way down the list at the moment

Yes the plate the center stand is mounted to sits on the underside of the frame rails and bends around them to bolt onto the footpeg bolts, so the entire setup is lower than the frame rails.

The bashplate is only a couple of mm, 2, maybe 3 at the most.

[Monstaman]

The bashplate is only a couple of mm, 2, maybe 3 at the most.

That won't fend off much or anything bigger than a flinging stone.

[NordieBoy]

That won't fend off much or anything bigger than a flinging stone.

2-3mm of alloy does the flung stone thing very well.

Casing over rocks, not so well.

[Monstaman]

Yeah I agree with that, mine is 4mm or 5mm I think and has some pretty decent skunk marks, one which would have been hole in sump for sure.

[NordieBoy]

What sort of skunks do you have down there?

[Monstaman]

What sort of skunks do you have down there?

Big sharp ones :yes: :p

Got bunny blood and fluff on my baseplate after riding home at 3.30 am on the Monday morning, looked like a furboyz bike :shit:

[Eddieb]

The only reason for the push cable is in case the slide sticks.
The fcr has rollers on the slide as well.
My XR race bike ran for 4 years with only the pull cable and got really choked up with mud without any issues.
My stock bst carb would stick closed occasionally but only after some extended high speed running.

If your carb return spring were to break, you'd be in the poo but how often does that happen?

I think the 950 was the first bike out of the over a dozen I've owned that has a throttle return cable and I've never had a spring break.


2-3mm of alloy does the flung stone thing very well.

Casing over rocks, not so well.

A better bash plate is on my list, I'll be hunting around for a cheap and cheeful one.

[Monstaman]

A better bash plate is on my list, I'll be hunting around for a cheap and cheeful one.

Per Nordie, see if you can pick up a 100km/hr sign as opposed to a 50km/hr sign as you should be able to hit stuff faster with the 100km/hr sign. :killingme :shutup:

[NordieBoy]

Per Nordie, see if you can pick up a 100km/hr sign as opposed to a 50km/hr sign as you should be able to hit stuff faster with the 100km/hr sign. :killingme :shutup:

The Stop sign is much better in this regard than a Give Way sign.

However a U-Turn sign would be the ultimate.

[BMWST?]

I think the 950 was the first bike out of the over a dozen I've owned that has a throttle return cable and I've never had a spring break.



A better bash plate is on my list, I'll be hunting around for a cheap and cheeful one.

go down to ulrich aluminium and see what they got in the scrap bin....

[Eddieb]

The mirrors on my DR are shite, They're different heights, small and the don't stay in position.

In keeping with this thread I'm looking for some cheap and cheerful and also useful replacements. So far these are leading at $25 off Trade Me.

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/11/115704811_full.jpg

Anyone got any other suggestions?

[Eddieb]

The DR came with an Eibach rear spring and collar kit that looks very much like the offering from Keintech.

http://www.kientech.com/DR650EibachFrontandRearSpringkit.htm
http://www.kientech.com/RearSpring1.JPG

The spring is marked 'Eibach 252183'.

Does anyone know how to translate that into a spring rate? I checked out the Eibach site but couldn't even find bike springs and have Googled it but my Google fu wasn't strong.

[JATZ]

I've found the best mirrors to be genuine suzuki ones. Tried aftermarket ones from WFO and they were not worth a pinch of shit, vibrated, wouldn't stay in position, and the mirror fell out of one on it's first or second outing. Had a couple of other cheeeeap ones and they just didn't "cut the mustard"

as an example....http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Suzuki/DR_250_R_LV_LW_S_LS_T_V_W_Y_SJ45A_DOHC/95-00/picture/Mirrors_Pattern_Pair_-_Alternative/

[NordieBoy]

The DR came with an Eibach rear spring and collar kit that looks very much like the offering from Keintech.
The spring is marked 'Eibach 252183'.

Does anyone know how to translate that into a spring rate? I checked out the Eibach site but couldn't even find bike springs and have Googled it but my Google fu wasn't strong.

Probably 7.6kg/mm which is what I'm running. Fat buggers go up to 8.5kg/mm or so. Stock is 6.7kg/mm.

[cooneyr]

Try KTM EXC mirrors. I've had some for the last two bikes and now the current EXC and am happy with them. Also hopefully reasonably cheep as heaps of EXC's without road gear on them.

Cheers R

[Eddieb]

Procycle ate my visa card. Now the wait begins.

[Monstaman]

Probably 7.6kg/mm which is what I'm running. Fat buggers go up to 8.5kg/mm or so. Stock is 6.7kg/mm.

Partial Thread Jack .. .would a 7.6 spring be suitable for two panniers and top box plus tent and some ancillary shit or would the 8.5 be a better bet?

Sorry Eddie, as your were....

[marks]

The mirrors on my DR are shite, They're different heights, small and the don't stay in position.

In keeping with this thread I'm looking for some cheap and cheerful and also useful replacements. So far these are leading at $25 off Trade Me.

Anyone got any other suggestions?

hmmm

I wonder if Andy would be interested in these ....

[Crim]

Lucky you went down the DR route Eddie, mirrors aren't quite as importanat as on a KLR so no real hurry - in a DR mirror things get bigger, in a KLR mirror things get smaller:bleh:

[Eddieb]

Lucky you went down the DR route Eddie, mirrors aren't quite as importanat as on a KLR so no real hurry - in a DR mirror things get bigger, in a KLR mirror things get smaller:bleh:

Haha

Nah I like to watch the KLR riders get splattered with my roost as I fly past them.

[NordieBoy]

Partial Thread Jack .. .would a 7.6 spring be suitable for two panniers and top box plus tent and some ancillary shit or would the 8.5 be a better bet?

You'd probably get away with it.
Wouldn't want to go heavier or once you pull the gear off it'll be waaaay over sprung.

[Monstaman]

You'd probably get away with it.
Wouldn't want to go heavier or once you pull the gear off it'll be waaaay over sprung.

(Last post on your thread eddie not relating to your bike specific)

...and even more under dampened!

Just planning our big trip away as I will be carrying the heavier stuff and knowing the DR is a bit soggy in the bum I am looking at options.

As you were ... again :niceone:

[dino3310]

The mirrors on my DR are shite, They're different heights, small and the don't stay in position.

In keeping with this thread I'm looking for some cheap and cheerful and also useful replacements. So far these are leading at $25 off Trade Me.

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/11/115704811_full.jpg

Anyone got any other suggestions?

i got one in the shed, it an original BIG one.
if ya want it

[Eddieb]

(Last post on your thread eddie not relating to your bike specific)

...and even more under dampened!

Just planning our big trip away as I will be carrying the heavier stuff and knowing the DR is a bit soggy in the bum I am looking at options.

As you were ... again :niceone:

No worries ;)

I've ridden a couple of stock DR's and with the rear preload wound right up they were just bearable, anything less and they were like pogo sticks.

With the spring I have fitted the preload is on 3/4's and with ~85kg of me and ~10kg of luggage on the back I think it's a little too hard, I might back the preload off a bit more when I pull the shock to put it back in the high postion.

[Monstaman]

Interesting, I am 74 kg and gear plus the will be two panniers, top box and tent etc, even if the std damping could be firmed up would be good but that is too floppy now.

Be interesting to see the results of your adjustments.

[NordieBoy]

Interesting, I am 74 kg and gear plus the will be two panniers, top box and tent etc, even if the std damping could be firmed up would be good but that is too floppy now.

Be interesting to see the results of your adjustments.

I'd be inclined to go for a 7.6kg spring and 7.5w oil.

[Eddieb]

i got one in the shed, it an original BIG one.
if ya want it

Cheers but I need a pair.

[Eddieb]

I had a trawl through the service manual tonight and found the section on lowering the DR and the factory positioning of the spacer on the shock when in the high and low position. I then had a crawl under the bike to see what was done to lower mine.

It turns out the lower shock mount has been moved to the upper hole, but the spacer hasn't been flipped over. This means it's going to be dead easy to put it all back to standard, but it won't be worth doing a photo essay on it as all the more complicated bits weren't done when it was lowered.

I've decided to leave the preload as it for the moment as lifting the bike back up to standard height will change the bikes geometry and I don't know if/how that may affect the shocks behavior. I'll run it as is for a while then decide if it needs changing.

[Eddieb]

I finished up at work today so was out and about with time to kill. A trip to the local engineers organised for an adapter to be made to fit the FCR carb up to the DR. That will be ready next week.

I also popped into TSS (http:www.tssredbaron.co.nz) for a nosy at bar risers. They had the Zeta risers which I wasn't a huge fan of after having a few niggly issues with the set I put on the PD, and then they had these. The rise isn't quite as high as the Zeta's, but they are very sparkly and bling with some adjustability built in, and were a bit cheaper so they won out.

[marks]

I finished up at work today

so are you now a man of leisure?

[Eddieb]

so are you now a man of leisure?

Only for this weekend.

[marks]

Only for this weekend.

so what you gonna be doing?

[Eddieb]

The spring is marked 'Eibach 252183'.

Does anyone know how to translate that into a spring rate? I checked out the Eibach site but couldn't even find bike springs and have Googled it but my Google fu wasn't strong.

After crawling under the bike further I can indeed see it is a 7.6kg spring.

Another coil further up is marked with '3830076.0'. I couldn't see that before I washed the bike yesterday.

[Eddieb]

so what you gonna be doing?

Same job, different company name on the top of the paycheck. My job is being 'insourced' back to Telecom, I managed to convince them they needed to take me with it.

After having Telecoms' own solution architects tell a PM that their project would not launch EVER without me, and another PM realising it on their own it wasn't too difficult a discussion

[Woodman]

Same job, different company name on the top of the paycheck. My job is being 'insourced' back to Telecom, I managed to convince them they needed to take me with it.

Well done,

[Eddieb]

So after buying my bling this afternoon I had to have some garage time.

1) The controls without bling with the lowered forks.
2) Bling fitted and forks raised back to standard height, the risers have lifted the bars 25mm and it feels much better.
3) The rear shock in the lowered position.
4) I also cleaned the stickers off the front.

How the feck do you get the lower rear shock bolt undone, I snapped a spanner on it and it hasn't shifted, the bike probably rides like a chopper now.

[bart]

Man, you gotta get rid of that yellow and purple paint job. What were they thinking when they designed the colour schemes on the early DR's. :weird::doobey:

[Eddieb]

Man, you gotta get rid of that yellow and purple paint job. What were they thinking when they designed the colour schemes on the early DR's. :weird::doobey:

Since the previous owner powder coated the frame yellow most of the purple is gone, it's better than it was.

[cooneyr]

....How the feck do you get the lower rear shock bolt undone, I snapped a spanner on it and it hasn't shifted, the bike probably rides like a chopper now.

That doesn't sound good. Bolt rusted into the spacer (inner race) maybe? The alloy of the shock its not that tough so it won't be the threaded section of the bolt that is an issue.

[NordieBoy]

How the feck do you get the lower rear shock bolt undone, I snapped a spanner on it and it hasn't shifted, the bike probably rides like a chopper now.

Only meant to be about 10nm or so.

[Eddieb]

Only meant to be about 10nm or so.

mmm, maybe I need to soak in in WD40 overnight or something. I literally snapped one of the hooks clean off a spanner trying to undo it and looking at the break it wasn't already fractured. I've tried a short bar on a socket, open ended spanner, through to a closed spanner and a mallet, It's not going anywhere.

Edit, just looked in the manual, 55nm/40lb-ft.

[NordieBoy]

Edit, just looked in the manual, 55nm/40lb-ft.

If you go anywhere near that, it'll strip the threads out of the alloy. It's only 5mm or so thick.

[Eddieb]

If you go anywhere near that, it'll strip the threads out of the alloy. It's only 5mm or so thick.

It's not a reverse thread or anything stupid like that?

[White trash]

How the feck do you get the lower rear shock bolt undone, I snapped a spanner on it and it hasn't shifted, the bike probably rides like a chopper now.

Have you undone the rear linkage bolt first?

[NordieBoy]

Have you undone the rear linkage bolt first?

Don't need to.
Just put it on a box, undo the bolt, remove it, do it back up in the bottom hole.

After greasing everything in sight of course.

[White trash]

Don't need to.
Just put it on a box, undo the bolt, remove it, do it back up in the bottom hole.

After greasing everything in sight of course.

Yeah, just wondering if the lingage/shock being still connected is somehow placing some more stress on the bolt and making it extremely tight to undo.

[NordieBoy]

Yeah, just wondering if the lingage/shock being still connected is somehow placing some more stress on the bolt and making it extremely tight to undo.

Yep. I think it's a case of plain stuckedness this time.

Although putting it on the centre stand or a box would reduce any load on the bolt too.

Maybe a little studlock in there?

[Eddieb]

Yep. I think it's a case of plain stuckedness this time.

Although putting it on the centre stand or a box would reduce any load on the bolt too.

Maybe a little studlock in there?

It's on the center stand so the rear wheel is off the ground.

Studlock?

[Box'a'bits]

If there is locktite / thread locker on it some heat will allow it to release. So out with the blow torch.

[Eddieb]

If there is locktite / thread locker on it some heat will allow it to release. So out with the blow torch.

Best I can do there is a hairdryer.

[Crim]

Best I can do there is a hairdryer.

Now that is one reply I wouldn't have posted:bleh:

[White trash]

Best I can do there is a hairdryer.


Now that is one reply I wouldn't have posted:bleh:

There's no shame in taking care of ya'self Eddie.........

[Eddieb]

Now that is one reply I wouldn't have posted:bleh:


There's no shame in taking care of ya'self Eddie.........

They're just jealous that I have hair left to take care of.

[Box'a'bits]

You can borrow mine. Bring the bike round & we can have that out on 5 mins flat

[BMWST?]

You can borrow mine. Bring the bike round & we can have that out on 5 mins flat

have you tidied the garage?

[Box'a'bits]

have you tidied the garage?
Tidy is a relative term, depending on what I've lost recently & how small it is. :rolleyes:

[Eddieb]

You can borrow mine. Bring the bike round & we can have that out on 5 mins flat

I might take you up on that in the near future.

[Woodman]

Best I can do there is a hairdryer.

:shutup::shutup::shutup::shutup:

[Eddieb]

As much as you all wanted to see pics of me blowdrying my butch-as, macho-as-fuck Purple and Yellow DR, BMWRSNUT's offer sounds far easier so I decided to leave the rear shock bolt till I can head over to his place and instead look at other things.

The front tyre the bike came with is crap, worn out and harder than a hard thing. Who knows how long it's been on the bike but the rubber was well weathered.
I pulled the front wheel off and wandered down to TSS with a tyre I took off one of the GS's a while back. It's fairly worn but still has a few 000 km's in it. After Jatz's tyre changing lessons when I was in Nelson I was tempted to do it myself till I realised I didn't have a pump.

I'd also decided I didn't really like the black paint on the front guard so bought a can of white paint and set to on that. A bit of sanding to clean up and prep the surface and few costs of white and it looks much better.

The header pipe was also attacked, I'm sure I reduced it's OD by a good 6mm with the amount of caked on dirt I scraped off, it's still discoloured but at least now I can tell there is some metal in there.

[marks]

Now that is one reply I wouldn't have posted:bleh:

ex bmw riders are very open about that sort of thing


You can borrow mine. Bring the bike round & we can have that out on 5 mins flat

he has a really really massive hair dryer

[Eddieb]

The bashplate is only a couple of mm, 2, maybe 3 at the most.

I measured my bashplate this afternoon also, it's 3mm.

The way I ride I need a good bashplate.

[Box'a'bits]

ex bmw riders are very open about that sort of thing.
He has a really really massive hair dryer
Damn, he got me there. Mine says 'Professional Hair Stylst' on the box. Pretty happy I've got hair though.. :bleh:

[Eddieb]

Not DR related but I've got some bike mags to get rid of.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/135441-Free-bike-mags-Australian-Road-Rider?p=1130003971#post1130003971

[Pampera]

Man, you gotta get rid of that yellow and purple paint job. What were they thinking when they designed the colour schemes on the early DR's. :weird::doobey:

Being a one very careful owner before me, my 1996 DR350SE is a perfectly preserved example of the Japanese yellow/purple/splotch era. Neil even went to the trouble of covering all the graphics with 3M film so they are (were) perfect.

My plain white Acerebis tank has retired the lurid original to storage. On my ride "with" Howie, Steven and MarkS last weekend, when I was looping around Port Underwood, my panniers moved forward on my rack and pressed the right side cover into the muffler. Result was a ruined sidecover, damaged panniers and underpants only moments from bursting into flames ("what is that smell?"). I waited for help but Mark was in Reefton and Paul/Steve were on Molesworth so I repositioned the panniers and used a Rarangi beach stone to pack out the sidecover away from the exhaust.

To cut a long story short, I now have fresh, plain white sidecover on its way to me.

This leaves only the lurid left one.

Dealer is also looking into a set of 2000 year decals for me - plain and simple by Suzuki standards - so perhaps the left hand graphics will soon be removed.

Michael

[Eddieb]

Hey Nordie

Did you find that PDF of the footpeg lowering brackets design?

[NordieBoy]

Hey Nordie

Did you find that PDF of the footpeg lowering brackets design?

The PM I sent on the 20th of Feb had the link to it.

[Eddieb]

The PM I sent on the 20th of Feb had the link to it.

Du'oh! how thick does it need to be and what metal?

[NordieBoy]

Du'oh! how thick does it need to be and what metal?

Mine are 10mm galv steel that was lying in the scrap bin at the engineering place.

[K slider]

Eddie I have a realy nice Accerbis twin headlight unit the I bought for the Dakar that would look great on your DR, its called a cyclops.

[NordieBoy]

I never understood why they called a twin headlight the Cyclops...

[Eddieb]

Eddie I have a realy nice Accerbis twin headlight unit the I bought for the Dakar that would look great on your DR, its called a cyclops.

I might have to Google that and have a look.

[K slider]

I think it is because of the projecter beam.

[Eddieb]

http://www.motorradgarage.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=38_58&products_id=827

Motoradgarage.com.au have DR250/350/650/DRZ250 Mark 2 Pivot Pegz on special at the moment, $154Aus down from $220Aus. I haven't seen these much less than about $300NZ here, an add on Trade Me quotes $320 as the NZ retail price.

I think I'll be placing an order tonight.

[Eddieb]

Hey Nordie

Did you find that PDF of the footpeg lowering brackets design?

I don't suppose you've got similiar for the rear pegs?

[marks]

http://www.motorradgarage.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=38_58&products_id=827

Motoradgarage.com.au have DR250/350/650/DRZ250 Mark 2 Pivot Pegz on special at the moment, $154Aus down from $220Aus. I haven't seen these much less than about $300NZ here, an add on Trade Me quotes $320 as the NZ retail price.

I think I'll be placing an order tonight.

the mark3 pivot pegs I just brought off ebay(http://www.advdesigns.com) were NZ $242 landed

[Trials Rider]

If you are looking for DR650 drop brackets for the rear of your bike check out
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=359547194

Email me direct paul@delis.co.nz $70.00 off tardme

[bart]

Wots the point of pivot pegs? :blink:

Seriously, I can see the point of most mods, like big tanks, silly looking screens, etc, but why pay that kind of money for pegs that rotate? I don't get it.

[Trials Rider]

They allow you to rip the skin off your legs at any angle with precision.

Serious though they give better holding to your boot soles as the pressure remains even and the same regardless of whether you are leaning back or shagging the tank

[NordieBoy]

Wots the point of pivot pegs? :blink:

Seriously, I can see the point of most mods, like big tanks, silly looking screens, etc, but why pay that kind of money for pegs that rotate? I don't get it.

They're like a pumper carb on a dr.
Pointless until you try one.

Even Padmei's homemade ones worked well.

[marks]

Wots the point of pivot pegs? :blink:

Seriously, I can see the point of most mods, like big tanks, silly looking screens, etc, but why pay that kind of money for pegs that rotate? I don't get it.

greater comfort because your foot is always flat on the peg, easier use of brake and gear levers as the pegs tilt with your boot. standing is less tiring as your feet are supported over a wider base (energy conservation is important to us with grey hair)

I've only had them on for one ride (1500km or so) but I'm very pleased with them.

if you've ever used spd's on a push bike - its a bit like that

[Box'a'bits]

Wots the point of pivot pegs? :blink:

Seriously, I can see the point of most mods, like big tanks, silly looking screens, etc, but why pay that kind of money for pegs that rotate? I don't get it.
What MarkS said

Next time we ride together look at the BMW pegs. They're design to keep podiatrists in business. Seriously not designed for standing any length of time. Narrow & small. I'm replacing them with Pivot Pegs or Fastways as soon as I have spare pesos. They also have the advantage of dropping the pegs a little as well.

The Mk III are wider again than the Mk IIs

[bart]

I have this amazing thing on the end of my legs called an ancle. Kinda does the same thing, but pivots the foot, instead of the peg. :shutup:

Perhaps I should try them one day.:innocent:

[marks]

I have this amazing thing on the end of my legs called an ancle. Kinda does the same thing, but pivots the foot, instead of the peg. :shutup:

Perhaps I should try them one day.:innocent:

my 52yr old ankles don't bend as easily as your 30something ancles

Any change I can make to my trail bike or adv bike to make it easier to ride means I get to ride for longer = money well spent :yes:

[Padmei]

My homemeade ones are wonderful to ride on.I didn't thinkthey would feel as nice as they do.
If you're off the seat standing tilted forward up a hill, there's no way your ankle will flex enough to compensate. I find my boot just pivots on the edge of the nornal peg creating a tired hot spot on the foot (ladder foot we call it in the trade).

With the pivot pegs (mine are called pilot pegs for copyright reasons- bloodylawyers have no sense of humour -BTW looking for a North American distributor if someone wants to make squillions) They move with my foot & the gear changes etc that can be a pain with normal lowered pegs are not an issue.

Mind you I do remember riding with you Bart on the DB & not wanting any pain relief for your head after you stacked it, whereas I'd be wanting a chopper ride out :shutup:

[Eddieb]

Perhaps I should try them one day.:innocent:

You really need to, the difference is surprising.

[Box'a'bits]

I have this amazing thing on the end of my legs called an ancle. Kinda does the same thing, but pivots the foot, instead of the peg. :shutup:

Perhaps I should try them one day.:innocent:
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4x5x8t0p1HM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[bart]

my 52yr old ankles don't bend as easily as your 30something ancles


I can't spell arthritus either, and I'm a lot closer to 50 than 20.


Mind you I do remember riding with you Bart on the DB & not wanting any pain relief for your head after you stacked it, whereas I'd be wanting a chopper ride out :shutup:

No brain, no pain. That was nothing. You should see the carnage when I really cock it up.


You really need to, the difference is surprising.

I do recall riding someone's bike with them on, and remember everything felt kind of squishy, like you're not standing on anything solid. I guess you get used to that.

[NordieBoy]

I do recall riding someone's bike with them on, and remember everything felt kind of squishy, like you're not standing on anything solid. I guess you get used to that.

Like DR's rubber mounted foot pegs?

[Eddieb]

You can borrow mine. Bring the bike round & we can have that out on 5 mins flat

Are you home tomorrow (Saturday) afternoon?

[Eddieb]

A nice courier man dropped a parcel off this morning from Procycle ;)

Now if Nordie sends my carb back I can start jetting it.

[Box'a'bits]

Are you home tomorrow (Saturday) afternoon?
At this stage, yes. Call me first though. Mandy's doing volunteer work this am, and I'm sure she'll organise my day for me when she gets home :rolleyes:

[dino3310]

Now if Nordie sends my carb back I can start jetting it.

yes and dont forget Nordie his address is xxx amanda ave Hamilton :rofl:

[NordieBoy]

Carb!

That makes more sense.

Do you know how difficult it is to package a 39mm crab?

[Eddieb]

yes and dont forget Nordie his address is xxx amanda ave Hamilton :rofl:

My old man used to live up there, and another riding buddy still does.

[GSers]

Hey guys what are these carbs off that you are using? I just had a look in the shed at the grenaded yz450 engine which will never go again it has a KEIHIN Flat CR carb looks like 39mm. Is this any good to anyone? HIGHEST OFFER NOT NECESSARILY ACCEPTED but probably will be.
GSers

[Eddieb]

Hey guys what are these carbs off that you are using? I just had a look in the shed at the grenaded yz450 engine which will never go again it has a KEIHIN Flat CR carb looks like 39mm. Is this any good to anyone? HIGHEST OFFER NOT NECESSARILY ACCEPTED but probably will be.
GSers

That the right area, the DR requires a FCR-39MX.

[Eddieb]

So today I head over to BMWRSNUT's as he reckons he's got the gear to get my lower suspension bolt out.

1) 2 minutes work by Stephen and it's sorted and the bolt is now in the lower position, as it happens he didn't even need to use the hair dryer, it was all muscle.

2) Stephen had to check his hair with the 'Professional Hair Stylest' hair dryer before we started work

With the rear raised the bike is considerably higher, it made much more of a difference than when the front was raised on it's own.

[marks]

Hey guys what are these carbs off that you are using? I just had a look in the shed at the grenaded yz450 engine which will never go again it has a KEIHIN Flat CR carb looks like 39mm. Is this any good to anyone? HIGHEST OFFER NOT NECESSARILY ACCEPTED but probably will be.
GSers

what other yz450 bits have you got?
front end?
exhaust cam?
exhaust system?

[GSers]

That the right area, the DR requires a FCR-39MX.
FCR = Flat Slide Carb MX = Motorcross 39 = Venturi size
This one is off a 2005 450 with throtle position sensor Part # 5XD2 10RJ03
and has a 39mm venturi
GSers

[NordieBoy]

FCR = Flat Slide Carb MX = Motorcross 39 = Venturi size
This one is off a 2005 450 with throtle position sensor Part # 5XD2 10RJ03
and has a 39mm venturi
GSers

Does it have the air cut off valve?

[GSers]

what other yz450 bits have you got?
front end?
exhaust cam?
exhaust system?

Marks
I bought nearly a complete bike that lunched itself IE it aint going to be running again anytime soon. ( never )
I am using the front end complete including plastics seat rear subframe rear shock
for a HPN BMW900RR sort of bike.
There is sitting in my shed what is left of the motor gearbox I think it dropped the cam chain front pipe rear swing arm and wheel, linkage, frame, carburettor, coil, radiator x 1 and ignition box No rear exhaust
The engine was stripped at the bike shop before I bought it and turned up in boxes I have not looked at it very closely at all.
What do you want me to have a look at specifically for you or make me an offer for what is left
This bike I can tell was not very well maitained used for a hack.
GSers

[GSers]

Does it have the air cut off valve?

Nordie
I think so, but looks to me like it is cable operated showing in the correct place from what I can see on the KEIHIN website.
GSers

[GSers]

Sorry Eddie Didn't mean to Hijack your thread Honest:spanking::spanking:
GSers

[Woodman]

what other yz450 bits have you got?
front end?
exhaust cam?
exhaust system?

You beat me to it, welll the front end part anyway, already have muffler

Right back to Eddies Dr build thread.

[gav24]

Nordie
I think so, but looks to me like it is cable operated showing in the correct place from what I can see on the KEIHIN website.
GSers

Sooo.... Is this the right one Nordie? - Been toying with the idea of the FCR40 but $$$$ always get in the way. I guess a 39 would work about 2.2% less efficiently than the 40...

Making up adapters should be no sweat, reckon the YZF cables are long enough? as for jetting.... Probably, maybe, er better get an advrider login and start trawling!

Hijacking again! Back to the thread...
BTW I found a nice big ally road sign buried in weeds at the side on the road (when looking for the spare wheel that fell off my trailer:() so loose a wheel - gain a new bash plate for the DR:clap: Silver linings!

[Eddieb]

I took the DR out today for a play on the beach at Wanuiomata. Took it through some very soft sand and it ploughed through that not too bad with the E-07 fitted, it was soft enough for the bike to stand up on it's own without being dug in.

234358 234357

On the way back in I tried standing the bike up with no stand again for a photo, which resulted in this

234360

And thats where things got interesting.

After picking the bike up again it wouldn't start, the battery quickly ran out of juice to turn the motor over. After a short wait a quad turned up and towed us back to the car park where it crash started easily.

The ride home was uneventful and we made it without stopping, I chucked the battery on charge and the charger was saying it was fully charged after about an hour. Is the short discharge and quick recharge an indication it's stuffed?

Once the battery was on charge I started writing this post and discovered I had lost my camera, oh crap! it's only a cheap one but still $150 worth, and that would also mean I'd have lost todays pics.

We jumped in the car late this afternoon and headed for the beach. We figured we'd re-walk the track we came out of and sure enough, half way back to where the bike had fallen over the camera was lying beside the wheel rut, phew!.

[DR650gary]

Reinstall the battery and put the multimeter on when you turn it over. Should drop to around 11-12 volts. If it drops to below 10, almost certainly stuffed.

Great photos, looks like a good day and you got your camera back!

[Eddieb]

Thanks Gary, will try that out.

The DR headlight is hard wired on obviously, and my bike is also fitted with running lights so the indicators are on constantly also, this means there's a bit more draw on the battery than usual starting up.

I think long term I might wire switches into both circuits so I can turn them off as required.

[NordieBoy]

Thanks Gary, will try that out.

The DR headlight is hard wired on obviously, and my bike is also fitted with running lights so the indicators are on constantly also, this means there's a bit more draw on the battery than usual starting up.

I think long term I might wire switches into both circuits so I can turn them off as required.

Dump or LED the running lights. Or even put the blinkers on when starting it.
There's 42w running constantly there if it's just the front ones.

[NordieBoy]

Sooo.... Is this the right one Nordie? - Been toying with the idea of the FCR40 but $$$$ always get in the way. I guess a 39 would work about 2.2% less efficiently than the 40...

Making up adapters should be no sweat, reckon the YZF cables are long enough? as for jetting.... Probably, maybe, er better get an advrider login and start trawling!
The 39 flows better than the BST 40 as there's no butterfly in the way of the flow.

That cable out the top is the hot start cable.
The air cut valve is on the side and is missing from that one. The accel pump bleed valve is closed on that one too but if you put on an adjustable one then you're meant to block it off anyway. If you run without it, it'll bog heavily on slow throttle openings and at low speed will stall (as the YZF riders will attest). The bleed valve shunts more of the flow back to the float bowl at slower openings.

It'll work but backfire more than one with the air cut valve.

I've got one the same one on the shelf for parts that I may convert one day.

[Eddieb]

While I was putting the bike back together last night I found a loose plug under the rear end of the tank. It has a red and a black wire. Is it supposed to be loose? anyone know what it's for? I couldn't find a mate for it.

[marks]

I took the DR out today for a play

Glen and I spent the day in the Mungy's yesterday on the klr and dt - you would have been welcome to join us. We need some way of letting local plp know about 'arranged the night before' type of rides. a txt group or something?

[NordieBoy]

While I was putting the bike back together last night I found a loose plug under the rear end of the tank. It has a red and a black wire. Is it supposed to be loose? anyone know what it's for? I couldn't find a mate for it.

Yep. It's a loose plug.
Mine has a little cap over it.

[Eddieb]

Glen and I spent the day in the Mungy's yesterday on the klr and dt - you would have been welcome to join us. We need some way of letting local plp know about 'arranged the night before' type of rides. a txt group or something?

Yes I'm keen to go up there, yesterday though I had a pillion on board.

Even posting up on here would be a start

[Eddieb]

While I had the seat off last night I also removed the airbox snorkel. It simply pushes into the top of the airbox so no cutting or modification is required, you just grab the snorkel and pull and it comes out. It's a free mod and easily restored to stock in minutes if you don't like it.

The butt dyno indicates the bike is a lot smoother and stronger at low revs now, it's removed a lot of the chugging at low revs which has made morning traffic much nicer to negotiate. For me it's been a much worthwhile mod and I'll be leaving the snorkel out.

For those who may be concerned about losing any fording depth you only loose about 2cm.

I forgot to take any pics so next time the seat is off I'll try and remember to take some.

[gav24]

While I had the seat off last night I also removed the airbox snorkel. It simply pushes into the top of the airbox so no cutting or modification is required, you just grab the snorkel and pull and it comes out. It's a free mod and easily restored to stock in minutes if you don't like it.

The butt dyno indicates the bike is a lot smoother and stronger at low revs now, it's removed a lot of the chugging at low revs which has made morning traffic much nicer to negotiate. For me it's been a much worthwhile mod and I'll be leaving the snorkel out.

For those who may be concerned about losing any fording depth you only loose about 2cm.

I forgot to take any pics so next time the seat is off I'll try and remember to take some.

Yeah that whole fording depth thing is a bit of a myth I reckon, Cut the whole top off the airbox and get even more flow going on. If you are riding through water that is the height of the base of the seat then well done! The bow wave created by riding pushes water away anyway.
If your pushing through then the water will be as high as the muffler opening so you probably wouldnt do it anyway without taking some steps to block off a few other oriffaces. Ooo errr!
My aftermarket foam air filter just about refuses to get dirty anyway - even pretty dust proof! Good design suzuki (yes it is oiled! I double checked that one when it stayed so clean!)

[gav24]

The air cut valve is on the side and is missing from that one.

Thanks Nordie, I'll keep looking for the YFZ ar the KTM one instead then. Good ol' ebay!

Back to Eddies DR - normal service can resume!

[Eddieb]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/135728-Great-used-Suzuki-DR-650?p=1130010923#post1130010923

$2500 with Acerbis tank, in auckland
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=234437&d=1300062557

[NordieBoy]

$2500 with Acerbis tank, in auckland

Acerbis tank?

Looks like a Clarke with Acerbis steekers.

But it's got the cool purple frame for bonus cool points.

[GSers]

The 39 flows better than the BST 40 as there's no butterfly in the way of the flow.

That cable out the top is the hot start cable.
The air cut valve is on the side and is missing from that one. The accel pump bleed valve is closed on that one too but if you put on an adjustable one then you're meant to block it off anyway. If you run without it, it'll bog heavily on slow throttle openings and at low speed will stall (as the YZF riders will attest). The bleed valve shunts more of the flow back to the float bowl at slower openings.

It'll work but backfire more than one with the air cut valve.

I've got one the same one on the shelf for parts that I may convert one day.

Nordie, you now have me confussed what is the difference between the hot start cable and the air cut valve. From what I have read on forums and in the earlier YZ manual it looks like exactly the same thing but a later version.
From what I can see the earlier model with the red button on the side had a manual decompression lever on the bars. This was done away with on the later models as the decompression was installed in the exhaust cam with a centrifugal mechanisim and the hot start valve / air cut valve was relocated to cable operation on the bars to make clutch and hot start an easier operation. I have read that this is a lean out operation or air bypass to avoid flooding after you fall off.I have not looked inside it at all. But could be tempted.( Fuel injection rules bloody things keep running even if they are upside down.)
GSers

[NordieBoy]

Nordie, you now have me confussed what is the difference between the hot start cable and the air cut valve. From what I have read on forums and in the earlier YZ manual it looks like exactly the same thing but a later version.
From what I can see the earlier model with the red button on the side had a manual decompression lever on the bars. This was done away with on the later models as the decompression was installed in the exhaust cam with a centrifugal mechanisim and the hot start valve / air cut valve was relocated to cable operation on the bars to make clutch and hot start an easier operation. I have read that this is a lean out operation or air bypass to avoid flooding after you fall off.I have not looked inside it at all. But could be tempted.( Fuel injection rules bloody things keep running even if they are upside down.)
GSers

The air cut valve is on the choke side and on that one is a circular indentation with 2 blind holes.
On the "proper" carb theres a diaphram, spring, cover and 2 screws on there too.

[GSers]

The air cut valve is on the choke side and on that one is a circular indentation with 2 blind holes.
On the "proper" carb theres a diaphram, spring, cover and 2 screws on there too.

Nordie, you are correct that diaphragm is missing of the side of it. I wonder if it was not required on the carbs with throttle position feedback because the probably altered the timing to overcome this issue IE retard the timing at low throttle openings which would help with back fire and low down surging
GSers

[Team Buffoon]

Eddie you were after some weren't you.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Fairing/auction-360473527.htm

[NordieBoy]

Nordie, you are correct that diaphragm is missing of the side of it. I wonder if it was not required on the carbs with throttle position feedback because the probably altered the timing to overcome this issue IE retard the timing at low throttle openings which would help with back fire and low down surging
GSers

All the FCR's have the throttle position sensor.
In a race situation, no one cares if it backfires on the overrun. Trail riding they do.
YZ's are race bikes after all.

Similar with the missing leak jet. Race bikes are not usually ridden off idle with slow throttle openings.

With the carb size, the 725 and 780 may benefit from a 40 or 41mm pumper but mxrob has tried them on the 644 with high comp piston and 223 webcam, with performance drops.

The 650 port sizes and combustion chamber are very old tech.
Even a mid-80's Yammy 600 had bigger valves.

[Woodman]

Do these carbs actually increase horsepower on a standard engine? or just help with throttle response?
I spose if you are doing a lot of hp mods then the cv would have to be replaced.

Apparently they are a dismal failure on klrs.

[Eddieb]

Do these carbs actually increase horsepower on a standard engine? or just help with throttle response?
I spose if you are doing a lot of hp mods then the cv would have to be replaced.

Apparently they are a dismal failure on klrs.

From what I have read the carb and a pipe can add ~10% to peak HP

Here's some dyno graphs from the Guru, MX-Rob, http://mxrob.com

1) Pipe comparison with stock carb
234491

2) GSXR pipe with FCR carb
234490

[GSers]

All the FCR's have the throttle position sensor.
In a race situation, no one cares if it backfires on the overrun. Trail riding they do.
YZ's are race bikes after all.

Similar with the missing leak jet. Race bikes are not usually ridden off idle with slow throttle openings.

With the carb size, the 725 and 780 may benefit from a 40 or 41mm pumper but mxrob has tried them on the 644 with high comp piston and 223 webcam, with performance drops.

The 650 port sizes and combustion chamber are very old tech.
Even a mid-80's Yammy 600 had bigger valves.

A few anomalies going on here Nordie throtle position sensor is an option as for the air cut valve Im picking its been added to overcome a lean out area in the idle / compensating jetting. Why would you want to through fuel down the combustion chamber on overrun all your doing is washing the lubrication from around the piston rings increasing wear all modern egines cut fuel on overrun these days for the sake of fuel economy.
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/About_Keihin_FCR-MX_Carburetor_C1745.cfm
These guys say that the Air Cut-off Valve (Std with Hot Start & TPS)
we now know that this is not true.
But very interesting topic

Another interesting resource
http://www.keihin-us.com/am/tuning/
GSers

[NordieBoy]

A few anomalies going on here Nordie throtle position sensor is an option as for the air cut valve Im picking its been added to overcome a lean out area in the idle / compensating jetting. Why would you want to through fuel down the combustion chamber on overrun all your doing is washing the lubrication from around the piston rings increasing wear all modern egines cut fuel on overrun these days for the sake of fuel economy.

The air cut valve only works on shut slide, high vacuum conditions.
The spring behind it is a strong little bugger that makes it difficult to put it back in after you've checked the diaphragm and jets to see if they're OK 'cause your bike is still backfiring.

A bit of fuel wash or being kicked off the track for being too loud...

Modern engines cut fuel on overrun 'cause they're fuel injected, sensor'd up and can.

mxrob set his DR up that way - closed throttle, manifold pressure high = no fuel = No popping.

On my old SR185 it was called a "coasting enrichener".

Note: This may all be made up, but it sounds good to me.

[GSers]

Looks like anyone loking for the ultimate carb for this conversion should be looking for the WR450 Carb as it looks like it has all the bits on that Nordies looking for.
GSers::rolleyes::rolleyes:

[Phreaky Phil]

Yeah that whole fording depth thing is a bit of a myth I reckon, Cut the whole top off the airbox and get even more flow going on. If you are riding through water that is the height of the base of the seat then well done! The bow wave created by riding pushes water away anyway.
If your pushing through then the water will be as high as the muffler opening so you probably wouldnt do it anyway without taking some steps to block off a few other oriffaces. Ooo errr!
My aftermarket foam air filter just about refuses to get dirty anyway - even pretty dust proof! Good design suzuki (yes it is oiled! I double checked that one when it stayed so clean!)I'll have to disagree with you on this one, even though I will probably be removing my snorkel. Recently we found a bit of flooding that got a bit deeper than i thought, and even with the snorkel in i had water in the airbox. Without it I think we would have been in trouble

[NordieBoy]

I'll have to disagree with you on this one, even though I will probably be removing my snorkel. Recently we found a bit of flooding that got a bit deeper than i thought, and even with the snorkel in i had water in the airbox. Without it I think we would have been in trouble

But the bottom of the snorkel is only about 5mm higher than the top of the airbox?

Almost touching the seat.
Had to think light smooth thoughts...
http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/slides/20081006-172141.jpg

[gav24]

I'll have to disagree with you on this one, even though I will probably be removing my snorkel. Recently we found a bit of flooding that got a bit deeper than i thought, and even with the snorkel in i had water in the airbox. Without it I think we would have been in trouble

Yeah - true, but hey 5mm difference!
I think you would have had a bit of water anyway:rolleyes:
Maybe it seeped in the side as the seal isnt exactly the greatest, or the bottom as I dont really trust the rubber one way valve on the drain vent...

Solution - Bigger bow wave - ride faster:clap:
Either gonna end up bone dry or wet like you would have done anyway!:rolleyes:

[Dawn Patrol]

But the bottom of the snorkel is only about 5mm higher than the top of the airbox?

Almost touching the seat.
Had to think light smooth thoughts...
http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/slides/20081006-172141.jpgI was thinking :eek5::eek5: thoughts. The snorkel is pointing sideways so that has to help a bit and the piece inside the airbox directs water away from the filter.
PS; This is Phil, Im on Dawns laptop

[gpcustom]

just letting you guys know i might be doing a few dr650 bash plates at a very cheap price probly $125 each. Only doing this as im hoping to buy a new bike tonite and i may blow (as in trademe and i may get caught in the moment)the budget so wont have the funds to have it shiped down as well as buying the bike:rolleyes:

Im buying a adventure bike HOPFULLY. have done the road thing for a bit now i want to get back to off road

[NordieBoy]

just letting you guys know i might be doing a few dr650 bash plates at a very cheap price probly $125 each. Only doing this as im hoping to buy a new bike tonite and i may blow (as in trademe and i may get caught in the moment)the budget so wont have the funds to have it shiped down as well as buying the bike:rolleyes:

Im buying a adventure bike HOPFULLY. have done the road thing for a bit now i want to get back to off road

Padmei's after a green DRZ400 one as well...

[gpcustom]

No problem. im geting ready for the bidding to begin hopefully i win :baby:

[NordieBoy]

No problem. im geting ready for the bidding to begin hopefully i win :baby:

He's after the bashplate for one. He picked the bike up last weekend.

[gpcustom]

can do no worries get him to send me a pm.
Heres my new bike:drool:

[dino3310]

can do no worries get him to send me a pm.
Heres my new bike:drool:

oh its a Yamaha:(


Naaaa :clap: nice ride mate:banana:

[gpcustom]

yea i know but the price was right $2500:devil2:

[dino3310]

yea i know but the price was right $2500:devil2:

:gob: :clap:

[Eddieb]

Thanks Nordie, the carb arrived yesterday.

[Phreaky Phil]

Thanks Nordie, the carb arrived yesterday.
Which carb you trying out ?

[Eddieb]

Which carb you trying out ?

I have a fcr mx that i left at Nordies when i was down there.

[NordieBoy]

I have a fcr mx that i left at Nordies when i was down there.

That's how we ended up with one of the cats, half a motorbike, a brewing kit and 2 kids.

Some things you just can't get rid of on trademe, even with free postage.

[Eddieb]

I popped into the engineers today and picked up what should be the last piece of the FCR conversion puzzle.

Now to find some time to rejet and fit it.

[Eddieb]

Garage time today, so far a new set of mirrors have been fitted to the DR and a new grip on the clutch side, but....


How the F**K do you get the grip off the throttle tube? I'm starting to think mine has been super glued on or something.

Any suggestions? so far I've tried brute force, ignorance, hot soapy water and a serated knife and none of them are getting very far.

[GSers]

Garage time today, so far a new set of mirrors have been fitted to the DR and a new grip on the clutch side, but....


How the F**K do you get the grip off the throttle tube? I'm starting to think mine has been super glued on or something.

Any suggestions? so far I've tried brute force, ignorance, hot soapy water and a serated knife and none of them are getting very far.

Get a scew driver down the length of it a drop a bit of petrol in there it will just slide off
GSers

[Eddieb]

Get a scew driver down the length of it a drop a bit of petrol in there it will just slide off
GSers

If I could get a screwdriver under it that would be sweet, but the entire thing is well attached. I can't lift any of it.

[Howie]

Garage time today, so far a new set of mirrors have been fitted to the DR and a new grip on the clutch side, but....


How the F**K do you get the grip off the throttle tube? I'm starting to think mine has been super glued on or something.

Any suggestions? so far I've tried brute force, ignorance, hot soapy water and a serated knife and none of them are getting very far.

If it's the Original grip, and it's anything like mine was I ended up slicing it off in pieces using a Stanley knife with a sharp blade, then cleaning the throttle tube up with a bit of coarse emery cloth. The factory seem to really glue them on probably so they can't be held liable for one moving and causing an accident?

[DR650gary]

Skinny screw driver, CRC and an air compressor. Takes a while and is not really worth the effort.

Cheers

[Monstaman]

Wheel the bike outside, aim handle grip at neighbours washing line, start disc grinder with metal grinding wheel and watch the rubber fly off.

Be careful not to go right through the tube.

Or VISA.

[NordieBoy]

The factory grip is bonded/vulcanised to the tube.
Cut off as much as possible then a wire wheel to buzz off the rest.

[Eddieb]

If it's the Original grip, and it's anything like mine was I ended up slicing it off in pieces using a Stanley knife with a sharp blade, then cleaning the throttle tube up with a bit of coarse emery cloth. The factory seem to really glue them on probably so they can't be held liable for one moving and causing an accident?


The factory grip is bonded/vulcanised to the tube.
Cut off as much as possible then a wire wheel to buzz off the rest.

Indeed it was bonded to the tube. Thanks for the advice folks, after much hacking with a knife and sanding I got the old grip off and a new grip on.

A test spin shows it was worth it for me, vibration is much reduced. The new mirrors also allow me to see things behind me, something the ones the bike came with didn't.

[warewolf]

The factory grip is bonded/vulcanised to the tube.
Cut off as much as possible then a wire wheel to buzz off the rest.Seems to be a Suzuki habit; both my DR200SE and DR-Z250 both were like this, but no other brands have been.

[Eddieb]

So I'm onto setting up the jetting for the FCR carb with the MX_Rob needle and jets kit. For the needle the clip is in the 4th position from the top as per Rob's instructions but does the shim go above or below the clip?

On the factory needle I have removed from the carb the shim was above the clip but I don't see how that position would make any difference

[NordieBoy]

https://docs.google.com/present/view?id=djwd44j_285cwcpp9dg

Slide 11 shows the washer under the clip.

[Eddieb]

https://docs.google.com/present/view?id=djwd44j_285cwcpp9dg

Slide 11 shows the washer under the clip.

Thanks, don't know why I didn't find that document, I looked through lots of other ones.

Where did you run your vacuum off? mine doesn't have an outlet as shown on slide 5.

And what did you do with all the wires for the TPS, just cut them off or tie them back somewhere out of the way?

[NordieBoy]

No vacuum. TPS shaft broken off with a pair of pliers and tape over the hole.
Wires... Dunno. I'll have a looksy tomorrow.

[Eddieb]

No vacuum. TPS shaft broken off with a pair of pliers and tape over the hole.
Wires... Dunno. I'll have a looksy tomorrow.

You're not using the stock fuel tap?

I picked up more farkle tonight courtesy of Aslan shipping inc, mmmmmmm.

If the TPS shaft is broken off with a pair of pliers I guess whats done with the wires is irrelevant, it's never going to work anyway.

It looks like I'll have to shave a small ridge off the outside edge of the intake to fit the adapter sleeve on.

[NordieBoy]

You're not using the stock fuel tap?

I picked up more farkle tonight courtesy of Aslan shipping inc, mmmmmmm.

If the TPS shaft is broken off with a pair of pliers I guess whats done with the wires is irrelevant, it's never going to work anyway.

It looks like I'll have to shave a small ridge off the outside edge of the intake to fit the adapter sleeve on.

Stock IMS fuel tap.
I unscrewed the wires from inside the TPS block by the look of the wirey thingy on the floor of the shed.
But it may be from something else entirely...

[5150]

Speaking of carbs, does anyone know if there is a local distributor for fuel mixture screw to fit std BST40 CV carburator? I can only find FCR screws locally, and the ones I found for the BST40 overseas the freight is about twice the value of the screw. :crybaby:

[JATZ]

Speaking of carbs, does anyone know if there is a local distributor for fuel mixture screw to fit std BST40 CV carburator? I can only find FCR screws locally, and the ones I found for the BST40 overseas the freight is about twice the value of the screw. :crybaby:

If it's the same as a BST33 carb then I have one here I'm not using.
flick us a p.m. with your addy

[Eddieb]

More garage time in the shed today courtesy of DR650Gary :) and Aslan couriers inc I now have an IMS tank. Fitting wasn't quite plug and play and a call to the Nelson DR oracle confirmed I needed to elongate a few holes on the seat mounting tabs as the IMS seems to come back a bit deeper than the stock tank.

Before

235770

And after:

235769

[5150]

Weird. Mine bolted straight up. It came with the bracket for the seat to slide onto, It was bit tighter but no real drama.



More garage time in the shed today courtesy of DR650Gary :) and Aslan couriers inc I now have an IMS tank. Fitting wasn't quite plug and play and a call to the Nelson DR oracle confirmed I needed to elongate a few holes on the seat mounting tabs as the IMS seems to come back a bit deeper than the stock tank.

Before

235770

And after:

235769

[NordieBoy]

........................
235948

[Eddieb]

........................
235948

It does look better in white.

[NordieBoy]

It does look better in white.

:innocent:

235961

[Eddieb]

:innocent:

235961

Haha, you beat me to it.

[5150]

Haha, you beat me to it.

You two should swap then.....:innocent:

[NordieBoy]

You two should swap then.....:innocent:

&nbsp;:msn-wink:

[Eddieb]

&nbsp;:msn-wink:

So how scratched up is your tank after all those km's?

[5150]

So how scratched up is your tank after all those km's?


Does it really matter on a DR? You bound to park it in a ditch somewhere along the way

[NordieBoy]

So how scratched up is your tank after all those km's?

1 set of tiny ones on the right...
235976

1 set on the left front...
235977

235978

From going down this bit and scraping the side.
235980

[Eddieb]

The mighty DR was running pretty rough after the King Country Adventure ride so I pulled her down a little tonight to have a looksie.

The symptoms were idling fine but not running very well at any revs above idle, sluggish response and backing off caused the bike to almost stall at any speed, plus a huge amount of clutch abuse was required to keep her running when moving off from a stand still or any less than 30km/h. It was backfiring a lot more than usual too.

Pulling the air filter out I found it was filthy. Before the KCAR I had removed the snorkel and on the filter just below the airbox opening a layer of dust had congealed onto the oiled filter about a mm thick. That got cleaned off as much as possible.

Next was the steel backfire mesh inside the airbox, that had come loose and the narrower end had jammed itself into the carb mouth created a significant restriction so that was permanently removed.

Lastly was the vacuum hose off the carb. I had fitted the IMS tank just before the KCAR which doesn't require a vacuum line so I had taped up the hose to seal it. The tape had come off on the trip so a a bolt got screwed tightly into the hose and a hose clip applied to keep it there.

I haven't ridden the bike yet to see if thats made an improvement but it sounded better idling and revved cleaner in neutral. Fortunately I ordered a new airfilter yesterday and will be picking that up Saturday.

I also lost one of the swimgarm nut covers, I'll have to hunt one of those out too.

[Eddieb]

On Friday night, the night before the KCAR I got home to find a courier note in the letterbox saying they hadn't delivered a parcel for me, so 8am Saturday morning I was outside Courierpost office in Lower Hutt ready to get more goodies.

This parcel included a set of Pivot Pegz and footpeg lowering brackets, a gas cap for Devil and 'Motorbikin 4 , The Madigan Line', Philth's latest DVD, all ordered from from Vince Strang Motorycles in Aus.
Knowing I was heading away that weekend to do Fishers and 42nd I couldn't leave without fitting more bling first so it was straight from Courierpost to the garage.

1) Stock Pegs
2) Lowering Bracket fitted
3) Lowering bracket and Pivot Pegz fitted
4) The width difference between the stock and Pivot Pegz
I also removed the mounting plate for the centre stand while in there

The Pivot Pegz rock as always and make somewhere like the 42nd so much better.

And on Monday night another parcel arrived from Nelson, watch this space.....

[Crim]

how were the pivot pegz over the weekend, Eddie?

[Taz]

They were shiny. was wondering what was reflecting my headlight when following him on the 42nd.

[Eddieb]

how were the pivot pegz over the weekend, Eddie?

Pivot Pegz are great on any weekend, on uppy downy stuff so good you don't notice your footpegs anymore.

[Phreaky Phil]

I see what you mean about the sound of your muffler ! Have you watched the video of the river crossing ?

[Eddieb]

I see what you mean about the sound of your muffler ! Have you watched the video of the river crossing ?

Yep, hideous isn't it. No perceived performance increase from drilling 4 holes in the end of the pipe is worth that sound.

[5150]

I see what you mean about the sound of your muffler ! Have you watched the video of the river crossing ?

Sounded like a wet fart. :shit:

One maybe will get ther sht together and finish a certain mid pipe for a certain someone :innocent:

[marks]

Those lowering brackets are a pain in the arse

they shear the mounting bolts off flush with the frame whenever you hit something hard.

I broke both sides on the klr and in the end got an engineers to make new hangers that lowered the pegs but didn't go below frame height.

Lowered pegs are great for comfort but can really restrict cornering clearance - I have to ride the klr like a cruiser - not the R1 it really is.

[NordieBoy]

Those lowering brackets are a pain in the arse

they shear the mounting bolts off flush with the frame whenever you hit something hard.

I broke both sides on the klr and in the end got an engineers to make new hangers that lowered the pegs but didn't go below frame height.

Lowered pegs are great for comfort but can really restrict cornering clearance - I have to ride the klr like a cruiser - not the R1 it really is.

Not as bad with the extra ground clearance of the DR vs your R1.

[Eddieb]

The mighty DR was running pretty rough after the King Country Adventure ride so I pulled her down a little tonight to have a looksie.

The symptoms were idling fine but not running very well at any revs above idle, sluggish response and backing off caused the bike to almost stall at any speed, plus a huge amount of clutch abuse was required to keep her running when moving off from a stand still or any less than 30km/h. It was backfiring a lot more than usual too.

Pulling the air filter out I found it was filthy. Before the KCAR I had removed the snorkel and on the filter just below the airbox opening a layer of dust had congealed onto the oiled filter about a mm thick. That got cleaned off as much as possible.

Next was the steel backfire mesh inside the airbox, that had come loose and the narrower end had jammed itself into the carb mouth created a significant restriction so that was permanently removed.

Lastly was the vacuum hose off the carb. I had fitted the IMS tank just before the KCAR which doesn't require a vacuum line so I had taped up the hose to seal it. The tape had come off on the trip so a a bolt got screwed tightly into the hose and a hose clip applied to keep it there.

I haven't ridden the bike yet to see if thats made an improvement but it sounded better idling and revved cleaner in neutral. Fortunately I ordered a new airfilter yesterday and will be picking that up Saturday.

I also lost one of the swimgarm nut covers, I'll have to hunt one of those out too.

Well one or all of the things I found above were the cause of my problems because today the mighty cheap DR is back to being a rip snorting fire breathing beast again.

I also went onto reserve as I left home this morning, it's the first full tank I've run through the new IMS tank. With the bike running like crap for pretty much the whole tank I got 345km from 16.4 litres, so thats 21.03 km/l.

[5150]

I got 345km from 16.4 litres, so thats 21.03 km/l.

Bastard!!!!:drool:

[bart]

I also went onto reserve as I left home this morning, it's the first full tank I've run through the new IMS tank. With the bike running like crap for pretty much the whole tank I got 345km from 16.4 litres, so thats 21.03 km/l.

How'd you do that?!?!! Most I've seen is 280 to reserve. :angry: I'd better learn about carbs and jetting and all the sort of stuff and figure mine out.

[bart]

Lowered pegs are great for comfort but can really restrict cornering clearance - I have to ride the klr like a cruiser - not the R1 it really is.

I've riden with people with real R1's who don't ride as quick through the twisty's as you on your KLR1. :scooter:

[Steelie]

How'd you do that?!?!! Most I've seen is 280 to reserve. :angry: I'd better learn about carbs and jetting and all the sort of stuff and figure mine out.

I also just fitted new IMS tank before the King Country Ride. Filled up to come home
and only got 236km to reserve.:gob:

Was hoping for better than that! Standard gearing, 100-110kph all the way home,

with the odd full throttle 140kph pass. Has Dynojet kit.

[Phreaky Phil]

I also just fitted new IMS tank before the King Country Ride. Filled up to come home
and only got 236km to reserve.:gob:

Was hoping for better than that! Standard gearing, 100-110kph all the way home,

with the odd full throttle 140kph pass. Has Dynojet kit.Obviously running a bit rich. It doesnt take much to knock your fuel economy to hell.

[NordieBoy]

How'd you do that?!?!! Most I've seen is 280 to reserve. :angry: I'd better learn about carbs and jetting and all the sort of stuff and figure mine out.

I'm getting 320km to reserve and would like to see 350...

[NordieBoy]

I also just fitted new IMS tank before the King Country Ride. Filled up to come home
and only got 236km to reserve.:gob:

Was hoping for better than that! Standard gearing, 100-110kph all the way home,

with the odd full throttle 140kph pass. Has Dynojet kit.

What dynojet settings?

[5150]

I am running FMF Q4 with Dynojet kit stage 1 with snorkel out.

152 main, pilot 2 sizes up from stock and dynojet kit needle shimmed 2 notches.

and i am getting now around 310 to reserve with IMS tank. Mind you I was right hand heavy, so I reckon with smooth throttle action on the road I should see around 330ish to reserve:scooter:

[Eddieb]

How'd you do that?!?!! Most I've seen is 280 to reserve. :angry: I'd better learn about carbs and jetting and all the sort of stuff and figure mine out.

I think the bike is running a bit lean, I've pulled the snorkel but not richened the carb to compensate for a start, and I was riding very smooth and nana like cause it was running like crap, not at Bart speeds.


I am running FMF Q4 with Dynojet kit stage 1 with snorkel out.

152 main, pilot 2 sizes up from stock and dynojet kit needle shimmed 2 notches.

and i am getting now around 310 to reserve with IMS tank. Mind you I was right hand heavy, so I reckon with smooth throttle action on the road I should see around 330ish to reserve:scooter:

If we assume thats 16 litres of gas for that distance then it's still fairly respectable economy given the modifications, just under 19.4km/l. You forgot to mention you have removed the snorkel also.

[5150]

. You forgot to mention you have removed the snorkel also.



No I didn't :bleh:

[NordieBoy]

I am running FMF Q4 with Dynojet kit stage 1 with snorkel out.

152 main, pilot 2 sizes up from stock and dynojet kit needle shimmed 2 notches.

and i am getting now around 310 to reserve with IMS tank. Mind you I was right hand heavy, so I reckon with smooth throttle action on the road I should see around 330ish to reserve:scooter:

With that setup you should have the top of the air box cut out, 160 main, stock pilot, needle 3rd from top.

Better torque and probably not much more fuel usage. The only way you're getting away with the 152 is the air box is stock and the muffler isn't improving anything apart from sound.

[zeRax]

2-3mm of alloy does the flung stone thing very well.

Casing over rocks, not so well.



heh, yup, the cheap awesome cool rad cheap bashplate i got from israel for the wr250r is well fucked after tekapo :P time to make one

[Eddieb]

Does anyone have a DR650 rear rack lying around that is no longer required, or know of any available that are appropriately priced for the mighty cheap DR?

I'm after something that I can bungy a bag across, or bolt my givi top box mount to, doesn't have to be pretty but must be functional.

[5150]

With that setup you should have the top of the air box cut out, 160 main, stock pilot, needle 3rd from top.

Better torque and probably not much more fuel usage. The only way you're getting away with the 152 is the air box is stock and the muffler isn't improving anything apart from sound.

I did consider doing stage 2 with airbox mod, but since I am doing more adv then road riding I didn't want to compromise the fact that if I submerge the bike the airbox will fill up much quicker when it is open. I am happy enough with the current set up. If I can find a spare airbox I might try the airbox mod and if not happy with it, then go back to my uncut one.

We have played around with different jet sizes and 152 seemed morst suited at the time.

[Eddieb]

Does anyone have a DR650 rear rack lying around that is no longer required, or know of any available that are appropriately priced for the mighty cheap DR?

I'm after something that I can bungy a bag across, or bolt my givi top box mount to, doesn't have to be pretty but must be functional.

I went into the local dealer today as he quoted me on the factory rack, it was 1/4 the price of my whole bike!

[Eddieb]

I did consider doing stage 2 with airbox mod, but since I am doing more adv then road riding I didn't want to compromise the fact that if I submerge the bike the airbox will fill up much quicker when it is open. I am happy enough with the current set up. If I can find a spare airbox I might try the airbox mod and if not happy with it, then go back to my uncut one.

We have played around with different jet sizes and 152 seemed morst suited at the time.

If there was some sort of aftermarket rubber/plastic bellmouth that could be clipped/glued into holes drilled in the top of the airbox that would be handy. A couple could be added to give the best of both worlds, no loss of fording depth and more air intake.

[NordieBoy]

Cutting open the air box top reduces your fording depth about 3mm.

If you're keeping the stock air box then a KTM needle is the best option. Open air box and the DynoJet is the best.

[Eddieb]

Cutting open the air box top reduces your fording depth about 3mm.

If you're keeping the stock air box then a KTM needle is the best option. Open air box and the DynoJet is the best.

My concern really is not so much absolute depth but when I drop it on it's side in a river.

[bart]

My concern really is not so much absolute depth but when I drop it on it's side in a river.

I like the way you say 'when'. :facepalm:

[NordieBoy]

My concern really is not so much absolute depth but when I drop it on it's side in a river.

Racing tether kill switch.

[zeRax]

damn you guys, having flash backs to my dr650 w/ fcr and gsxr etc :P, what a freakin transformation that was

[Eddieb]

Dunno if it's the colder weather, the air intake clean out, the tank of 95 I've been running through it to see how it goes or that todays commute was 1-up after a weekend of 2-up riding, but man the mighty cheap DR was humming tonight. She felt really responsive.

P.s Bart, 300km's so far off this tank and not on reserve yet. ~120km of that was 2 up pottering around Wellington city and the rest is commuting.

[dino3310]

yeah and?
what do ya expect its a DR:Punk:

[Eddieb]

yeah and?
what do ya expect its a DR:Punk:

I was getting worried over the weekend, every time I went up a hill 2-up at any sort of decent speed I could hear this rattle that sounded like the bike was seconds away from terminal detonation. I was pretty relieved when I realised it was the clip on the GPS mount vibrating

[5150]

I was getting worried over the weekend, every time I went up a hill 2-up at any sort of decent speed I could hear this rattle that sounded like the bike was seconds away from terminal detonation. I was pretty relieved when I realised it was the clip on the GPS mount vibrating

Just turn your Ipod volume up, You won't hear it then.....:shifty:

[Eddieb]

I like the way you say 'when'. :facepalm:

History dictates it is fated to happen, it has to every other Adventure bike I've owned.

[Eddieb]

Filled the tank again tonight.

342km to reserve.
361 total km's for 17 litres = 21.17km/l

And there was a shiny E-09 rear waiting for me on the doorstep when I got home. Cheers Devil, I hope that tank cap has made it to you.

[Phreaky Phil]

Filled the tank again tonight.

342km to reserve.
361 total km's for 17 litres = 21.17km/l

And there was a shiny E-09 rear waiting for me on the doorstep when I got home. Cheers Devil, I hope that tank cap has made it to you.Havent got anywhere close to that fuel consumption. I think 18kml is the best so far. But thats 2up. Not sure how much difference gearing makes. Mines 14/45

[NordieBoy]

Just got 19.5km/l around town today.

[talbertnz]

The new mirrors also allow me to see things behind me, something the ones the bike came with didn't.

I opened up my old Dr mirror and it has an enourmous piece of steel in it!! covered in foam suppose to stop vibrations.

I found the original mirrors pretty good.

got some $50 ones from bike shop but they felt much lighter (no steel inside?) and vibed all over the place.

[Eddieb]

There's been plenty of oil threads throughout history, what about a DR petrol discussion?

What do you run in your DR, 91, 95 or 98?

I ran 91 in the mighty cheap DR for the first half dozen tanks then for the last 3 tanks I have been running 95. Unfortunately I don't have any firm economy figures to compare between the 2 grades but anecdotally I'm getting about 1-1.5km/l better on 95. As an added bonus the butt dyno indicates the bike is far more responsive when running on 95, especially in the mid range.

My car was in the shop yesterday for a wheel bearing and the garage owner asked if I was running on 91. After taking the car for a drive he had noticed it was low on power. He also claimed running my car on 91 would clog the oxygen sensor requiring a significant repair, and delivery lower economy. His opinion is that 91 is a crap fuel and shouldn't be run in anything. We then got into a DR discussion as he has a DR250 and a XJR1200 and is looking for a cheap DR650 for his son. His recommendation for the 650 was to run it on 95 also.

What say you?

[5150]

There's been plenty of oil threads throughout history, what about a DR petrol discussion?

What do you run in your DR, 91, 95 or 98?

I ran 91 in the mighty cheap DR for the first half dozen tanks then for the last 3 tanks I have been running 95. Unfortunately I don't have any firm economy figures to compare between the 2 grades but anecdotally I'm getting about 1-1.5km/l better on 95. As an added bonus the butt dyno indicates the bike is far more responsive when running on 95, especially in the mid range.

My car was in the shop yesterday for a wheel bearing and the garage owner asked if I was running on 91. After taking the car for a drive he had noticed it was low on power. He also claimed running my car on 91 would clog the oxygen sensor requiring a significant repair, and delivery lower economy. His opinion is that 91 is a crap fuel and shouldn't be run in anything. We then got into a DR discussion as he has a DR250 and a XJR1200 and is looking for a cheap DR650 for his son. His recommendation for the 650 was to run it on 95 also.

What say you?

JET FUEL!!!! :first:

Just kidding.

I was told by my mechanic that DR650's were designed to run on 91. Being that people take them to 3 world countries where petrol is less then desired grade, they werent designed to run on anything high octane. It kind of makes sense, but I do agree in that I would not even run 91 in my lawn mower if I can help it. :puke:

[Phreaky Phil]

JET FUEL!!!! :first:

Just kidding.

I was told by my mechanic that DR650's were designed to run on 91. Being that people take them to 3 world countries where petrol is less then desired grade, they werent designed to run on anything high octane. It kind of makes sense, but I do agree in that I would not even run 91 in my lawn mower if I can help it. :puke:I run mine on 91. Seems to go well enough !

[bart]

I always go for higher octane when available. I don't think 98 has much advantage over 95 unless tuned for it. 91 is crap. I've owned a few cars that wouldn't run well on 91.

The only thing I run on 91 is wifey's car :innocent: It's modern and should handle it.

In saying that, the DR is so lowly tuned it could probably run on donkey piss. :shutup:

[NordieBoy]

I only run 91.

Tried higher octane but 91 gave the best bottom and mid range performance and better mileage.

The Nordie was the same but the VT250 hated the stuff.

[Eddieb]

More Fuel Analysis

To earn a crust I sit at a desk all day and pretend to do a job that has the word 'Analyst' in the title.

With that in mind I had a think about this today and the results are below. Bear with me, doing the calculations is easier than explaining it. Prepare to be geeked:

Some people run 95 because they believe that 95 is a better fuel, and some people run 91 as they believe that it's a sufficient fuel but cheaper and hence their running costs are lower.

I checked todays average petrol prices for Shell service stations in Wellington on pricewatch.co.nz.

91 is $2 18.8/litre, so 16 litres = $35.00
95 is $2 25.9/litre, so 16 litres = $36.14

So first off the price difference between filling with 95 vrs 91 for a DR650 is only $1.14 (IMS tank, 16 litres = full to reserve).

Now from recent riding I know:
On 91 I’m getting about 20.00 km/l so 16 litres takes me 320km.
On 95 I’m getting about 21.17 km/l so 16 litres takes me 338km.

(The 91 economy is estimated based on mileage I was getting with the stock tank but if anything I've been a bit generous and it's likely to be closer to 19-19.5. I was mostly getting 180-190km to a reserve of 10 litres)

So for the same quantity of fuel the distance travelled is greater, I'm getting better economy to the tune of an extra 18km. This straight away would support the theory that 95 is a better fuel.

So, if we ran the DR on 91 gas, how much more does it cost to do the extra 18km to equal the distance 95 gives us.

18km @ 20km/litre means we’d need to buy an extra .9 of a litre of 91 to do the extra 18km.

So the cost of 91 gas to do the extra 18km is $2 18.8/litre x .9/litre = $1 96.9

As we found above the cost difference to fill the tank with 95 = $1.14

So to do the same distance on each fuel $1 96.9 for 91 minus $1 14 for 95 = 82.9 cents per tank difference

This means it's cheaper use 95 than it is to use 91 by 82.9 cents.

So for me that settles it, I’m better off running 95 over 91 because:

I get better fuel economy which equates to more distance per tank. In real terms I have less reliance on finding a fuel stop while out on rides and can explore a bit further down tracks before I have to worry about gas.
It's 82.9 cents cheaper to cover the same distance on 95 than it is on 91. Over the long term running costs are lower on 95, even though it's a marginal difference it shows that running on cheaper 91 gas is a false economy
A Less quantifiable but just a valid result is that I get better responsiveness from the bike, particularly in the mid range on 95.


YMMV, don't sue me if your findings are different.

[GSers]

Yeah and if you got rid of that FCR you would get even better Kms to the litre.:yes::yes::yes:
But its all about compression ratio and octane rating the higher the compression the higher the octane you require hence racing engines use Avgas with lead in it. So if you where to used 98 you should see even better mileage given you ride in the same style. The higher compression and higher octane gives a better flame burn across the top of the piston and better throttle response
GSers

[bart]

Good stuff.:yes:

Now try a couple of tanks of 98 and see what happens.

[bart]

Yeah and if you got rid of that FCR you would get even better Kms to the litre.:yes::yes::yes:
But its all about compression ratio and octane rating the higher the compression the higher the octane you require hence racing engines use Avgas with lead in it. So if you where to used 98 you should see even better mileage given you ride in the same style. The higher compression and higher octane gives a better flame burn across the top of the piston and better throttle response
GSers

Hey GSers....how about diesel, or does that only work in BMW's??? :shutup::shutup::shutup:

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/bart-nz/RRRR%202011/IMG_0829.jpg

[Eddieb]

Yeah and if you got rid of that FCR you would get even better Kms to the litre.:yes::yes::yes:
But its all about compression ratio and octane rating the higher the compression the higher the octane you require hence racing engines use Avgas with lead in it. So if you where to used 98 you should see even better mileage given you ride in the same style. The higher compression and higher octane gives a better flame burn across the top of the piston and better throttle response
GSers

The FCR isn't fitted yet, I'm still running the stock BST40.

[GSers]

Good on yeah Bart, actually it sucked all the way across the Gentle Annie. Even though it was all drained out it was pinking across there. Much better once it got a top up of 98 in Taihape.
GSers