Replacing pin on ECU?

[SVboy]

When I got my k6 600, there was a bit of corrosion on the ECU pins/plug. I got this proffessionally cleaned, but a pin had rotted away completely. After checking the pin no, the mechanic said it was an extra pin and had no function. Yay. However my bike has an intermittant fault that I think could be related to the missing pin. My question; Is the somewhere in NZ that can replace the missing pin, even though it is down to the resin block? Ideas please!

[CookMySock]

Usually the connector is modular and you can completely dismantle it. Check if there is some clip that you can flick off with a tiny screwdriver. If the connector is something really unique it might take a while to find a replacement pin that do the job.

Try wriggling the connector and see if it faults. If so, then maybe your hunch is right. If not, then you might do more harm than good exploring this further. You might also try cutting the pin in question right back and check if the fault has changed.

[notme]

The pin can be replaced with a bit of ingenuity if it is needed - but the first thing to do would be find out if it really is a spare. It can't be anything critical if the bike starts and runs, but it could be related to the intermittent fault (which is .....?)

Get a wiring diagram for your bike that shows what is connected to that pin and go from there. If the diagram shows it is really spare, look elsewhere for the intermittent fault cause....the fact that the pin corroded away completely is a worry and might be related to the fault.

[imdying]

Find the fault, fix it.

Don't fuck around with random bollocks on some probably false hope. Diagnose and then repair, not a hack n slash approach to both.

[SVboy]

Good advice, but not an easy find. Because the fault is intermittent, and not repeatable on demand, such as in a mechanics workshop, it is not easy. However,I am going with yor advice. We are going to check out the ignition circut first, but it will be a matter of check out this, take to track to check, check out next thing,etc etc. Will take time!!

[notme]

Because the fault is intermittent, and not repeatable on demand, such as in a mechanics workshop, it is not easy.

Make it repeatable on demand. What is the fault? Does it make the engine cut, the horn go off, the dash lights flicker or what?

With a fault description and a wiring diagram you can start getting down to a specific circuit - and it'll save you paying someone by the hour if you use your own time to narrow the fault down. Once you have narrowed it down, you'll probably find that you can fix it yourself since most of the time it's wires/connectors/fuses etc.

Post a description of the fault symptoms and we can help, also ask professor google for an electrical diagram :hitcher:

[imdying]

Good advice, but not an easy find. Because the fault is intermittent, and not repeatable on demand, such as in a mechanics workshop, it is not easy. However,I am going with yor advice. We are going to check out the ignition circut first, but it will be a matter of check out this, take to track to check, check out next thing,etc etc. Will take time!!Take the time. It's better than soaking the ECU in acetone to remove the resin so you can get to the back of the connector :( (I don't know anyone who has killed an ND ECU doing this, surprisingly)


What's your fault?

[SVboy]

When exixting the sweeper at ruapuna at around 12-14k revs[and occasionally on the road] the bike cuts out instantly. No FI code on the dash, but the ignition light comes on. Power is restored within a few seconds and normal service resumes. This might only happen a few times in a session or 5-6 times. Usually by the end of the day-it is perfect and no fault happens. Disconcerting as you can imagine!

[notme]

When exixting the sweeper at ruapuna at around 12-14k revs[and occasionally on the road] the bike cuts out instantly. No FI code on the dash, but the ignition light comes on. Power is restored within a few seconds and normal service resumes. This might only happen a few times in a session or 5-6 times. Usually by the end of the day-it is perfect and no fault happens. Disconcerting as you can imagine!

So you've checked the obvious things I guess - it's not directly related to revs? I.e doesn't happen between 12 and 14k rpm every time, in a straight line? Have you noticed it only happens in one gear? Only on left handers, or only on right handers? Can you make the bike cut with the same symptoms by leaning it over in the garage - i.e. does it have a bank angle sensor?

I think this is going to turn out to be nothing to do with the ECU pin, sounds like intermittent connection that is going bad when things move around due to the cornering force, the lean angle, the vibes at certain revs, or similar. Could be a wire or crimp going bad, or a dodgy switch on sidestand or anywhere else that kills the ignition.

If that's what it is, you are going to have a hard time making it play nice and repeat when you want, so the next step is to put aside a saturday and start going through the ignition circuits where they pass the usual suspect places - steering head, near battery, fuse box, back of ignition key, switchblocks, anything that kills the ignition (don't bother with neutral of clutch switches) looking for dodgyness.

Something else you could do is check if the symptoms are the same (FI light on etc) if you flick the killswitch while riding. If the symptoms are the same, you know that the ignition circuit is being broken rather than say the sidestand switch activating.

[SVboy]

I am hoping you are right. The ignition Barrel/key is "rough" to turn-so I will start there looking for dirty contacts. The fault almost always occurs at high revs and almost always banked to the left[but has happened while bike was vertical once].

[notme]

I am hoping you are right. The ignition Barrel/key is "rough" to turn-so I will start there looking for dirty contacts. The fault almost always occurs at high revs and almost always banked to the left[but has happened while bike was vertical once].

OK more clues there then - and a good place to start.

Get into the ignition barrel contacts and have a look.

I'm really leaning against the ECU pin having anything to do with it. Sounds like something is coming loose or breaking contact under vibration or loading under cornering - maybe also try turning the bars from lock to lock to see if there are wires/connectors/plugs being stressed near the steering head. When it happens, have you noticed if the ignition cuts ONLY, or if the bike loses all power? If it's only the ignition, start looking around that circuit but if it's all power, start looking around the battery, main fuse, fusebox area. If bike batteries are not secured they can move around as you corner and pull on cables and connectors.

[SVboy]

Powerloss is instantanious and total,[ no gradual loss of revs or backfiring] before resuming.

[SVboy]

Thinking more-the red ignition light would require power to glow when the cut occurs-ruling out the power circuit. Ignition circuit looking more likely.

[imdying]

Do you have a manual? Generally the Suzuki ones have breakdown diagrams (simple diagrams like flow charts) which outline exactly what components make up a particular system.

If nothing else, it'll give you a list of all components related to ignition and fuel that should be checked for clean tight connectors.

[imdying]

Is there anything non standard about the bike? Power commander, tail tidy, etc etc

[SVboy]

I have a manual on CD. Will check that out. Bike is std-had tail tidy.

[notme]

I have a manual on CD.

Armed with the wiring diagram, I would print a copy, grab a highlighter to mark circuits you have checked, and starting from the battery go thru the circuits from the battery forward, doing nothing more at this stage than a visual inspection for obvious problems, and with the bike running moving each loom and connector around to see if you can get the fault to trip.

As you go through each connector, unplug it and look for bent/displaced pins, corrosion, melted plastic bits or any other problems. A squirt of CRC contact cleaner wouldn't go astray while you are there but that's more a preventative measure.

[SVboy]

Thank you ALLUN, and IMDYING-you have given me good advice on where to start. Will keep you posted.

[JMemonic]

Um isnt the red light the oil pressure light? If it is then its not really helpful other than to say the engine has stopped pumping oil, it would possibly be showing how fast power was restored to the circuit but its not a good indicator of any cause as it would hold up for a second or so until pressure drops.

[notme]

Um isnt the red light the oil pressure light? If it is then its not really helpful other than to say the engine has stopped pumping oil, it would possibly be showing how fast power was restored to the circuit but its not a good indicator of any cause as it would hold up for a second or so until pressure drops.


.......o FI code on the dash, but the ignition light comes on.......


.........Thinking more-the red ignition light would......

It's the FI/IGN light by his descriptions....I think it has a key symbol on it?

[Pussy]

What pin # is it?

[SVboy]

I stripped out the key barrel and ignition contacts over the weekend. Lots of muck in there, which I have cleaned up. Will report back when I get a chance to test it out.

[Scoot_6R]

Tip over switch!!!! Dirty or loose contacts maybe

[SVboy]

I will check the TOS-it is seated correctly, but the penulum my have had a hissy-will remore cover and check....

[hayd3n]

Tip over switch!!!! Dirty or loose contacts maybe

i second that ive heard of ppl siliconing them in position so they dont turn when ya tip over

[SVboy]

It is with great relief that I can report that the fault was caused by the kickstand moving a bit, and causing the cut out switch to activate! All sorted!! Yay!

[notme]

I think this is going to turn out to be nothing to do with the ECU pin, sounds like intermittent connection that is going bad when things move around due to the cornering force, the lean angle, the vibes at certain revs, or similar. Could be a wire or crimp going bad, or a dodgy switch on sidestand or anywhere else that kills the ignition.

Dodgy sidestand switch in the end huh?
Don't even ask about the blood sweat and tears that burned that particular lesson into me!

Glad you got it sorted mate :-)

[SVboy]

Cheers, I appreciate yours and all the others advice offered[even DBs!] in sorting this headache!!

[TygerTung]

You should be able to tell if the pin is unused as there will be no wire coming out of the plug in that position.

[SVboy]

When the mechanic discovered the corrosion on the ecu pins/plug I got then professionally cleaned and neutralized, then we carefully checked the pins against the workshop wiring diagram, identified the missing pin no, and were happy to find it was a spare, and its absence has no effect. Thank god!!