955 to 675 master cylinder conversion!

[Grubber]

I am in the process of swapping my standard master cylinder on my 955i to a 675 radial m/c. It all looks very simple with a couple of minor adjustments here and there.
Just checking to see if there any little tips or tricks i may not have thought of that someone may be able to enlighten me on.

Thanks for any help.

[Taz]

But why? .

[YellowDog]

I am in the process of swapping my standard master cylinder on my 955i to a 675 radial m/c. It all looks very simple with a couple of minor adjustments here and there.
Just checking to see if there any little tips or tricks i may not have thought of that someone may be able to enlighten me on.

Thanks for any help.

You're a brave man :yes:

Best advice: Don't do it on your own :no:

[bogan]

You've probly already checked this, but make sure the calipers have the same piston area, otherwise feel will be a bit off. Also, bleed the fittings as well as the normal bleed nipple when you put fresh fluid into it. Radial masters look the business aye!

[Owl]

I've just swapped my 14mm for a 5/8 axial. Certainly got the firmer lever I was after, but at the expense of bite/feel:facepalm:

Perhaps I should've taken the 675 radial route too?

[Grubber]

But why? .
Cause a day at the track and i got major brake fade. Been a bit of a problem to be fair!

You're a brave man :yes:

Best advice: Don't do it on your own :no:
Your not the first to say this. Have been told the are pretty damn good when all done. Has to be better than turn 1 at 180k's with no brakes.


You've probly already checked this, but make sure the calipers have the same piston area, otherwise feel will be a bit off. Also, bleed the fittings as well as the normal bleed nipple when you put fresh fluid into it. Radial masters look the business aye!
Yup, got this sorted. They apparently match up really well. Suppose to eliminate any fade at all when the fluid gets hot. Should be good i hope.

I've just swapped my 14mm for a 5/8 axial. Certainly got the firmer lever I was after, but at the expense of bite/feel:facepalm:

Perhaps I should've taken the 675 radial route too?
Was told this was another option but yes they bite real bad. Had a ride on one a couple of weeks ago that this had been done and have to say the feel was literally gone. They certainly stopped though.:woohoo:

[Grubber]

I've just swapped my 14mm for a 5/8 axial. Certainly got the firmer lever I was after, but at the expense of bite/feel:facepalm:

Perhaps I should've taken the 675 radial route too?

Will let you know if the radial has been a sucess.
New radial for 675 is around $650. Got mine for $390 just yesterday at AMPS. Last one of old stock.:woohoo:

[Owl]

Will let you know if the radial has been a sucess.
New radial for 675 is around $650. Got mine for $390 just yesterday at AMPS. Last one of old stock.:woohoo:

Yes do that, as I'd be keen to know how you get on. The radial MC on mine would effectively make my brakes the same as the 675 Daytona, as they share the same calipers etc.

Ouch on the price:blink: and I paid less than $200 for my replacement. Still, I'll see how I feel about it once I replace pads, clean pistons etc. I may end up back with the old MC yet.

[speedfish]

yeah that should be good ive had the same issue on my 955 on the track another thing i was looking at was running 2 lines from mc 1 to each side to eliminate the hoop from right to left calipers which can hold trapped air .I was having a look at a late model speed triple and noticed that the 05 gsxr 600 beside it had the same mc so a second hand one of those could be a cheaper option for some

[Grubber]

yeah that should be good ive had the same issue on my 955 on the track another thing i was looking at was running 2 lines from mc 1 to each side to eliminate the hoop from right to left calipers which can hold trapped air .I was having a look at a late model speed triple and noticed that the 05 gsxr 600 beside it had the same mc so a second hand one of those could be a cheaper option for some

I have already done the braided single lines and it did help a bit. A bit more feel in the lever after that. The GSXR 750 also fits apparently and works well. It's a 5/8 m/c and therefore allows for more power in the pull so to speak.
A couple of other tricks you can try is to back bleed as best you can and then tie your lever back to the handle bar with a cable tie as hard as you can and leave it overnight. This works really well in getting all the air out of the system and the feel is quite hard again after this.
Also another thing to do is take your calipers off and spray with brake clean and then push the pistons in and out fully a few times to make sure they are not sticking at all. This can be a common problem with these calipers. Chuck some brake clean on your floating rivets too so they don't stick. This can make your brakes vibrate if they are not cleaned from time to time.
That's all my advise for now.:rockon:

[speedfish]

yeah mate those brakes sure harden up in feel when you give the pistons a good clean up i used a tooth brush on the areas i could get to then i flossed the rest that you cant get the brush to with string soaked in brake clean i will now do this as routine maintenence

[speedfish]

yeah cheers grubber i will do these mods later as my bikes pretty much become a track bike and can do with more efficient front stoppers thanks

[speedfish]

Hey Grubber hows the bike now after the 675 m/c fitted? Ive got my race fairings on now and the m/c is the next job to tackle cheers Neil

[manxkiwi]

yeah mate those brakes sure harden up in feel when you give the pistons a good clean up i used a tooth brush on the areas i could get to then i flossed the rest that you cant get the brush to with string soaked in brake clean i will now do this as routine maintenence

Something I always do nowadays is paint (with a wee model paint brush) a little silcone grease on the pistons when you're finished cleaning them. Keeps the seals nice and protects the pistons. They attract dust, but when you next clean them it just wipes off nice and easy.

Read it in a mag somwhere along the line, now do it to all my bikes. They do seem better for it too.

Cheers.

[DEATH_INC.]

The radial MC on mine would effectively make my brakes the same as the 675 Daytona, as they share the same calipers etc.

Doesn't the 675 run Nissin radial calipers?

I've noticed the 955 doesn't....therin probably lies the problem. Pretty hard for a master to cause fade, and by changing it you're only masking the problem, you'll still get fade, you just move more fluid so it isn't as noticeable. I'd be looking to see if any other calipers will fit (gsxr,r6 or suthin else that does work) rather than the master.

The early ZX10's had the same issue, and many 'fixed' it with a different master/braided lines/flash brake pads etc, but the real problem was the caliper, which when changed transforms the brakes like you wouldn't believe.:yes:

Of course I could be completely wrong :facepalm:

[Owl]

Doesn't the 675 run Nissin radial calipers?

I've noticed the 955 doesn't....therin probably lies the problem. Pretty hard for a master to cause fade, and by changing it you're only masking the problem, you'll still get fade, you just move more fluid so it isn't as noticeable. I'd be looking to see if any other calipers will fit (gsxr,r6 or suthin else that does work) rather than the master.

The early ZX10's had the same issue, and many 'fixed' it with a different master/braided lines/flash brake pads etc, but the real problem was the caliper, which when changed transforms the brakes like you wouldn't believe.:yes:

Of course I could be completely wrong :facepalm:

No, you're sort of on the money! Oh and my calipers are Nissin radials.

Issue does lie within the calipers, specifically the pistons, though I'm not experiencing fade. The issue I have is longer lever travel than I'd like, but still plenty of bite. Cleaning and freeing up the pistons regularly solves the problem, but I thought the larger M/C would make it firmer for longer. It has, but at the expense of feel.

I'll stick with this setup until after I replace my pads and then I'll reassess it. I may end up going back to my OEM M/C and cleaning more often.

05-06 GSXR1000 Tokico's are a direct fit and apparently much better, but then I'd need new lines and caliper bolts to go with them. Plenty of options though!

[DEATH_INC.]

No, you're sort of on the money! Oh and my calipers are Nissin radials.

Issue does lie within the calipers, specifically the pistons, though I'm not experiencing fade. The issue I have is longer lever travel than I'd like, but still plenty of bite. Cleaning and freeing up the pistons regularly solves the problem, but I thought the larger M/C would make it firmer for longer. It has, but at the expense of feel.

I'll stick with this setup until after I replace my pads and then I'll reassess it. I may end up going back to my OEM M/C and cleaning more often.

05-06 GSXR1000 Tokico's are a direct fit and apparently much better, but then I'd need new lines to go with them. Plenty of options though!
Now this I find very interesting....the supposed ultimate upgrade on the 10 is....ZX14 NISSIN calipers. Tho a lot of us are running the CBR thou Tokico's, which offer more feel and still lotsa stopping power.
Interesting about the pistons, I tried some gsxr calipers on my ZX10, way better than the stockers, and identical externally, except for the pistons. The Gixxer has thick ally pistons, the ZX10 has thin stainless ones, which I believe flex and transfer too much heat. The 04-07 ZX10's use these calipers, and both suffer from excessive lever travel and fading. Both the gixxer and 10 use Tokico's.
I wonder if yours has a similar fault?

[Owl]

I wonder if yours has a similar fault?

I may be able to shed some light?

My OEM calipers had a fault and while recognised worldwide, not by Triumph NZ (long story). They were fitted with stainless pistons (not flimsy), but they'd accumulate crap, stick and lose lever firmness. Cleaning and massaging them would make them like new for about 3000km.

I replaced my calipers with the 07 Speed Triple Nissins, which came with the "fix", being coated pistons and of a slightly different shape. They work better for longer and last about 7000km before they require cleaning. Even at their worst, they're still not as bad as the OEM shiny pistons.