VW Polo with ABS light coming on intermittently

[cbfb]

My gf's Polo (one of those 4-wheeled things) has an ABS light that keeps coming on intermittently. I tried cleaning the ABS sensors, no change.

She took it to a garage today, they told her it's likely to be the ABS module which costs around $1200 to fix :gob:

Wouldn't mind but the car is a POS, keep trying to get her to flick it and buy another but too late now, not gonna get a good price on it with a fault light on :(

So anyone got any ideas? Finding it would be a good start, apparently attached to the ABS pump but where do I find that? Could it be fuses, loose wires, etc? How do you reset the unit, can it be done by disconnecting the battery or does it need one of those fancy computery things?

I am vaguely handy with things mechanical so would like to give it a crack first before she shells out on it, would keep me in the good books for months :woohoo:

[bogan]

not flashing a fault code is it?

[george formby]

Start with your connections. I have an old Passat (black crosses on the doors) & the oil light comes on intermittently. After much fannying about I traced it back to the sensor connection. Squirt of CRC fixes it.

I should imagine they use a standard sensor (Bosch?) which you may be able to source a lot cheaper than a VW dealer will gouge you too.

Best of luck.

[marie_speeds]

A friend had a similar fault and from what I recall they took to an autoelectrical guy who put a scan tool on it and then just reset a fault in the computer and it didn't happen again. Maybe worth a try to save yourself some dollars?

[superman]

My gf's Polo

A girl in a VW Polo?! Surely that's a highly rare occurence. :lol:

[sgtp]

I suspect that the sensor that the ABS uses to check the speed of the wheel is built into the wheel bearing, atleast that was the way it was on my buick. When the sensor is crapping out, you get the light. Normally, a competent shop that has a scanner can hook up their computer to the car and tell you what wheel bearing is bad. I replaced a wheel bearing that had quite a bit of play in it, and when doing so, the ABS light issue went away with it.

[cbfb]

Thanks all!


not flashing a fault code is it?

I believe it was giving a fault code when they tested it, something along the lines of the ABS module was stuffed. Don't know what the exact code was. Would it be worth finding out (doesnt mean a lot to me)?


Start with your connections. I have an old Passat (black crosses on the doors) & the oil light comes on intermittently. After much fannying about I traced it back to the sensor connection. Squirt of CRC fixes it.

I should imagine they use a standard sensor (Bosch?) which you may be able to source a lot cheaper than a VW dealer will gouge you too.

Best of luck.

Did CRC the sensors, with it being intermittent hard to tell if it made much difference. Apparently it's the control module that's stuffed though. I would test the cnxns to that but don't know where the hell it is :facepalm:



A friend had a similar fault and from what I recall they took to an autoelectrical guy who put a scan tool on it and then just reset a fault in the computer and it didn't happen again. Maybe worth a try to save yourself some dollars?

I *think* they have tried this already. I was going to have a poke around/CRC of the wires and maybe change the fuses then get them to reset it (or do it myself if possible).

[cbfb]

I suspect that the sensor that the ABS uses to check the speed of the wheel is built into the wheel bearing, atleast that was the way it was on my buick. When the sensor is crapping out, you get the light. Normally, a competent shop that has a scanner can hook up their computer to the car and tell you what wheel bearing is bad. I replaced a wheel bearing that had quite a bit of play in it, and when doing so, the ABS light issue went away with it.

I don't think it is the sensors that are faulty, the auto electrician seemed to think the fault diagnostic scanner was indicating a fault with the ABS control module itself.

[Brett]

Is it an ex-Singapore or Malaysian import? If so, wiring is probably screwed from humidity and causing your issue.

[cbfb]

Is it an ex-Singapore or Malaysian import? If so, wiring is probably screwed from humidity and causing your issue.

Dunno where the frickin thing is from to be honest but funny you should say that cause I've read more than one web page that mentioned Polos and wiring that goes wrong due to damp.

If only I could find the bloody control unit I would give it a thoroughly good soaking with CRC. Done that with the sensors already but not solved the issue.

[george formby]

Damp, damp you say?

My Passat is a twat when it rains, takes 2 or 3 goes to get it started. Done the leads, distributor, plugs the lot, still a twat.

I've yet to have the joys of owning a car with modern electrickery gubbins, still with windy down windows, tape deck & no cup holders.

Take the bulb out of the warning light... Oh, can't get into the dash? bugger.

[cbfb]

Damp, damp you say?

My Passat is a twat when it rains, takes 2 or 3 goes to get it started. Done the leads, distributor, plugs the lot, still a twat.

I've yet to have the joys of owning a car with modern electrickery gubbins, still with windy down windows, tape deck & no cup holders.

Take the bulb out of the warning light... Oh, can't get into the dash? bugger.

Mate give me windy windows any day, the more electrickery involved the more bloody asprin i need.

Yeah the driver's automagic window is buggered too, makes it great fun at carpark ticket gates.

Just spoke to the missus again, apparently it's the "front left module"??? Thought there was only one... Doesn't help when she's relaying the info, not the most mechanically minded.

[george formby]

Mate give me windy windows any day, the more electrickery involved the more bloody asprin i need.

Yeah the driver's automagic window is buggered too, makes it great fun at carpark ticket gates.

Just spoke to the missus again, apparently it's the "front left module"??? Thought there was only one... Doesn't help when she's relaying the info, not the most mechanically minded.

:facepalm::facepalm:

Probably just a worn switch on the window. Some of them can be re-nippled with a bit of solder, well fords can.

[marie_speeds]

I had an ABS fault on my Honda Accord Wagon that I used to own...was there constantly and luckily under warranty so it got replaced. Picked up car and drove away from mechanics went to stop at lights and sitting there at red light the brake pedal sunk slowly to the floor. Turned around and went straight back.... diagnosed that master cylinder needs replacing...again very lucky it was under warranty! So I hope nothing like this happens to your GF's car.

[cbfb]

:facepalm::facepalm:

Probably just a worn switch on the window. Some of them can be re-nippled with a bit of solder, well fords can.

Ssshhhh I told her it would cost at least a grand in parts ;)


I had an ABS fault on my Honda Accord Wagon that I used to own...was there constantly and luckily under warranty so it got replaced. Picked up car and drove away from mechanics went to stop at lights and sitting there at red light the brake pedal sunk slowly to the floor. Turned around and went straight back.... diagnosed that master cylinder needs replacing...again very lucky it was under warranty! So I hope nothing like this happens to your GF's car.

Same here! Brakes are solid though, bled and tested fine. Just the frikin electronics playing up I think, better off without them

[george formby]

I had an ABS fault on my Honda Accord Wagon that I used to own...was there constantly and luckily under warranty so it got replaced. Picked up car and drove away from mechanics went to stop at lights and sitting there at red light the brake pedal sunk slowly to the floor. Turned around and went straight back.... diagnosed that master cylinder needs replacing...again very lucky it was under warranty! So I hope nothing like this happens to your GF's car.

My Passat did that! $800 for a replacement! Nay, nay & thrice nay I said.

Local mechanic machined the old one & put a new seal kit in for $90. Jobs a carrot.

It's a real pain having to pump the brakes 30 times a second to get some stopping.

[cbfb]

My Passat did that! $800 for a replacement! Nay, nay & thrice nay I said.

Local mechanic machined the old one & put a new seal kit in for $90. Jobs a carrot.

It's a real pain having to pump the brakes 30 times a second to get some stopping.

This gutless piece of shit doesn't get fast enough to pose any sort of danger as far as stopping is concerned.

Seriously though I think the brakes themselves are fine, thank god.

Gonna go get some contact cleaner after work and napalm every cnxn I can see

[onearmedbandit]

Bet ya she just loves the colour though.

[HenryDorsetCase]

electrical connector blocks. Particularly under the seats, under the carpet or wherever. undo the connector block, clean the connectors and I am sure there is a conductive grease or something you can use to keep water out and electrons in.

[HenryDorsetCase]

My Passat did that! $800 for a replacement! Nay, nay & thrice nay I said.

Local mechanic machined the old one & put a new seal kit in for $90. Jobs a carrot.

It's a real pain having to pump the brakes 30 times a second to get some stopping.

its great for building strong thighs and sphincter muscles though

[george formby]

its great for building strong thighs and sphincter muscles though

That explains why I can run in circles so fast & steer my bike via the seat.

Thank you.

[HenryDorsetCase]

speaking of strong muscles (and veering wildly off topic in a NSFW direction)

qeCgRJwhj3s

[george formby]

Another riveting & informative afternoon on KB.

Love your work.

Back on topic..

[cbfb]

Bet ya she just loves the colour though.

She's got her eyes on my truck actually... No I'm not riding to work in the pissing rain over winter sorry...


electrical connector blocks. Particularly under the seats, under the carpet or wherever. undo the connector block, clean the connectors and I am sure there is a conductive grease or something you can use to keep water out and electrons in.

Yip will get some contact cleaner after work and give it a good going over. Vaseline should do the trick with keeping the water out no?

[Rhys]

wife VW beetle had the same thing mechanic reset the computer and it hasn't come back unfortunately the wife did :facepalm:

[The Stranger]

something along the lines of the ABS module was stuffed. Don't know what the exact code was. Would it be worth finding out (doesnt mean a lot to me)?

It does to your girlfriend - about $1,200.00.

FWIW a friend of mine had the same issue with her Polo.
Had to replace the ABS unit.

[cbfb]

wife VW beetle had the same thing mechanic reset the computer and it hasn't come back unfortunately the wife did :facepalm:

ROFL very Tommy Cooper


It does to your girlfriend - about $1,200.00.

FWIW a friend of mine had the same issue with her Polo.
Had to replace the ABS unit.

Yep I know, she's not exactly loaded as it is bless her, I try to fix the thing as much as I can to keep the bills down.

Yep looks like it's the ABS unit, cleaned all the contacts no luck. Sensors been swapped over, still the left front one showing an error so must be the bloody unit. Arseholes.

Now on the lookout for a service manual for the beast... anyone???

[nosebleed]

She's got her eyes on my truck actually... No I'm not riding to work in the pissing rain over winter sorry...



Yip will get some contact cleaner after work and give it a good going over. Vaseline should do the trick with keeping the water out no?

Dielectric grease. Theres little one-shot packs at Repco but they're about $4 a pack iirc.
BNT used to stock it in decent sealant sized tubes.

I'm guessing the low melt point of vaseline would make it redundant in this situation as it'll just melt and run out of the connectors.

[pete376403]

My daughters Rover 216 (Honda Concerto in drag) had an ABS fault that was diagnosed to a bad ABS unit - light was off immediately after starting the engine but would come on after driving about 30 -40 meters. She was quoted around $1200 to replace the control unit. Research indicated the seals start leaking internally and the reservoir cannot hold pressure from the pump and the computer registers a fault. The brakes themselves were perfect
I was going to get another control unit fro Pick-a-part ($70) pull it apart and see how they work, instead she sold the car and got something else

[The Stranger]

Yep I know, she's not exactly loaded as it is bless her,

Time to get a new one.

[SMOKEU]

A mate of mine works as an auto sparky and the number of late model Euros coming in with electrical problems is shocking. You don't see that with much of the Jap stuff.

[Brett]

Damp, damp you say?

My Passat is a twat when it rains, takes 2 or 3 goes to get it started. Done the leads, distributor, plugs the lot, still a twat.

I've yet to have the joys of owning a car with modern electrickery gubbins, still with windy down windows, tape deck & no cup holders.

Take the bulb out of the warning light... Oh, can't get into the dash? bugger.

mate, the fix on the passats is to remove the bung that sits underneath the battery. Over time the little drainage holes (stupid littles things) fill up with crap and the area with the rain shield over it becomes a little damn and when the water gets too full it spills over into the passenger compartment. Stupid design, thought the germans were smarter than that, but guess not. Pull out the bung, water all drains away as soon as it ends up in the battery compartment and water does not make it into the passenger compartment. The way to tell if this is your problem is if either the driver or passenger side footwells get damp or fill up with water. Be carefull if that is the problem as the ECU sits in the passenger footwell and is expensive to replace.

[trustme]

A mate of mine works as an auto sparky and the number of late model Euros coming in with electrical problems is shocking. You don't see that with much of the Jap stuff.

Correct. Fix that piece of euro trash & get rid of it asap. Once the electrics start giving problems it is all down hill
VW's were not called Hitlers revenge for nothing. The rest of the euro's including BMW are little if any better.

[SMOKEU]

It's always funny to see how people in NZ buy European cars and think that they are somehow getting a car which is better built than a cheap Japanese car. Once the warranty period is over is often when the honeymoon ends. Ditto that for resale time.

[ducatilover]

The joints in the module are soldered and are prone to cracking.
Good news, we can source these fairly cheap, the are Polo/Golf/Bora specific parts.
The wheel sensors are also problematic, but, if they have done a scan on it (I'll look up doing a self diagnostic on it in a sec) and ruled these out I will go hunt down a price for a new module. :yes:

[ducatilover]

It's always funny to see how people in NZ buy European cars and think that they are somehow getting a car which is better built than a cheap Japanese car. Once the warranty period is over is often when the honeymoon ends. Ditto that for resale time.
I buy Euro cars more often (I try too) because my taste in cars is just that way inclined. To this day the nicest and most fun car I have ever driven is an E36 BMW M3 :love: There's just something about them.
Japanese cars aren't all that hopped up and brilliant, a Polo drives better than the Starlet back then and the GTi model is a laugh.

[cbfb]

Dielectric grease. Theres little one-shot packs at Repco but they're about $4 a pack iirc.
BNT used to stock it in decent sealant sized tubes.

I'm guessing the low melt point of vaseline would make it redundant in this situation as it'll just melt and run out of the connectors.

Had a go at it with contact cleaner and very fine sandpaper, still no go so guessing the unit itself is buggered. Apparently those Bosch units suffer from shitty internal cnxns.


My daughters Rover 216 (Honda Concerto in drag) had an ABS fault that was diagnosed to a bad ABS unit - light was off immediately after starting the engine but would come on after driving about 30 -40 meters. She was quoted around $1200 to replace the control unit. Research indicated the seals start leaking internally and the reservoir cannot hold pressure from the pump and the computer registers a fault. The brakes themselves were perfect
I was going to get another control unit fro Pick-a-part ($70) pull it apart and see how they work, instead she sold the car and got something else

Sounds like exactly the same problem. Trouble is she left it until the WOF runs out (Sat) so going to look a bit suss if we try and sell it now :facepalm:

[cbfb]

Dielectric grease. Theres little one-shot packs at Repco but they're about $4 a pack iirc.
BNT used to stock it in decent sealant sized tubes.

I'm guessing the low melt point of vaseline would make it redundant in this situation as it'll just melt and run out of the connectors.

Had a go at it with contact cleaner and very fine sandpaper, still no go so guessing the unit itself is buggered. Apparently those Bosch units suffer from shitty internal cnxns.


My daughters Rover 216 (Honda Concerto in drag) had an ABS fault that was diagnosed to a bad ABS unit - light was off immediately after starting the engine but would come on after driving about 30 -40 meters. She was quoted around $1200 to replace the control unit. Research indicated the seals start leaking internally and the reservoir cannot hold pressure from the pump and the computer registers a fault. The brakes themselves were perfect
I was going to get another control unit fro Pick-a-part ($70) pull it apart and see how they work, instead she sold the car and got something else

Sounds like exactly the same problem. Trouble is she left it until the WOF runs out (Sat) so going to look a bit suss if we try and sell it now :facepalm:

[SMOKEU]

I buy Euro cars more often (I try too) because my taste in cars is just that way inclined. To this day the nicest and most fun car I have ever driven is an E36 BMW M3 :love: There's just something about them.
Japanese cars aren't all that hopped up and brilliant, a Polo drives better than the Starlet back then and the GTi model is a laugh.

A mate of mine let me take his manual e36 325i out for a drive one night. I didn't want to give back the keys at the end! Such smooth power, the car felt slow but when I looked at the speedo I was very deep into instant licence losing territory. You just don't get that feeling with Jap cars.

But he did have some very expensive things go wrong with that car. He had to replace the whole wiring loom, among other things.

[ducatilover]

A mate of mine let me take his manual e36 325i out for a drive one night. I didn't want to give back the keys at the end! Such smooth power, the car felt slow but when I looked at the speedo I was very deep into instant licence losing territory. You just don't get that feeling with Jap cars.

But he did have some very expensive things go wrong with that car. He had to replace the whole wiring loom, among other things.

A good E36 is a brilliant car to drive, so finely balanced and the M50/M52 motors are like silk soaked in double cream.
Never heard of a wiring loom failure on one though (and I am a crazy E36 nutter:innocent::love:), what went wrong with it?
I know the E30's had problems with the loom pinching up in front of the doors and people not finding the problem :facepalm: So they were shorting fuses, heaps.

[ducatilover]

CBFB, they are also a common part with the Audi A3 of the same era. :yes:

[SMOKEU]

A good E36 is a brilliant car to drive, so finely balanced and the M50/M52 motors are like silk soaked in double cream.
Never heard of a wiring loom failure on one though (and I am a crazy E36 nutter:innocent::love:), what went wrong with it?
I know the E30's had problems with the loom pinching up in front of the doors and people not finding the problem :facepalm: So they were shorting fuses, heaps.

I'm not really too sure what happened with the loom, it just fried itself.
I may get an e30 325i manual one day, I have a mate who's had 2 of them and they're such well balanced, nimble cars. With a set of decent lowering springs and some bigger rims they handle like a dream, outpacing many much newer petrol turbo Japanese cars in the twisties.

[ducatilover]

I'm not really too sure what happened with the loom, it just fried itself.
I may get an e30 325i manual one day, I have a mate who's had 2 of them and they're such well balanced, nimble cars. With a set of decent lowering springs and some bigger rims they handle like a dream, outpacing many much newer petrol turbo Japanese cars in the twisties.
Ah, you have to be very careful lowering an E30, on the road not many E30's have a better compromise than the factory M325i springs/shocks on good rubber and the 15 inch wheels. I've driven many lowered E30's that handle like shit and many that handle beautifully. I've been a passenger in a very carefully modified M325i and the speeds the driver was pedalling it through the bends was biblical, especially for the era.
Got to love the tail happy E30 :love:
One of the neatest ones I drove mad an M30B35 in it, I wouldn't really drive it hard enough to care about the small increase in front end weight, it had torque from here to breakfast, plenty of rubber melting abilities.... :innocent:

[SMOKEU]

Ah, you have to be very careful lowering an E30, on the road not many E30's have a better compromise than the factory M325i springs/shocks on good rubber and the 15 inch wheels. I've driven many lowered E30's that handle like shit and many that handle beautifully. I've been a passenger in a very carefully modified M325i and the speeds the driver was pedalling it through the bends was biblical, especially for the era.
Got to love the tail happy E30 :love:
One of the neatest ones I drove mad an M30B35 in it, I wouldn't really drive it hard enough to care about the small increase in front end weight, it had torque from here to breakfast, plenty of rubber melting abilities.... :innocent:

Too many muppets put the lowest springs in that they can, ruining the handling, but my mates one is only lowered slightly. Up tight, twisty mountain roads we've often raced turbo Skylines, WRXs, Cefiros etc and they can't keep up around the corners! By the time we get to the top of the hill, the guys in the other cars always make excuses saying "my turbo is boosting properly" or "my wastegate is leaking" etc etc because they're so embarrassed their modern Japanese performance car got shat on by a 27 year old car.

I've been in e30s when they're sideways and they seem to be much more controllable than most other RWD cars. They also don't appear to bite back as hard if you push them too far.

[cbfb]

CBFB, they are also a common part with the Audi A3 of the same era. :yes:

And a remarkably shit part by all accounts, read of heaps of these things failing.

She's getting it done at a garage now, couldn't find one for any sort of decent price and anyway it needs doing tomorrow (WOF runs out)...

[ducatilover]

Too many muppets put the lowest springs in that they can, ruining the handling, but my mates one is only lowered slightly. Up tight, twisty mountain roads we've often raced turbo Skylines, WRXs, Cefiros etc and they can't keep up around the corners! By the time we get to the top of the hill, the guys in the other cars always make excuses saying "my turbo is boosting properly" or "my wastegate is leaking" etc etc because they're so embarrassed their modern Japanese performance car got shat on by a 27 year old car.

I've been in e30s when they're sideways and they seem to be much more controllable than most other RWD cars. They also don't appear to bite back as hard if you push them too far.
When done right they are epic, but, yes they are a bit snappy, especially compared to the amazing E36 chassis, my old M-sport E36 was a dream to slide, you had to push it very hard, but, being gentle with the wheel was so rewarding. Too many people are too aggressive with the E30 :facepalm:


And a remarkably shit part by all accounts, read of heaps of these things failing.

She's getting it done at a garage now, couldn't find one for any sort of decent price and anyway it needs doing tomorrow (WOF runs out)...
Bugger mate, if you had more time I could have got one for less than $200NZD :innocent: I love my parts finding abilities.

[cbfb]

Bugger mate, if you had more time I could have got one for less than $200NZD :innocent: I love my parts finding abilities.

Hmmm how long would it take to get here? Cheapest I could find was $200 but that was from UK Ebay.

[ducatilover]

Hmmm how long would it take to get here? Cheapest I could find was $200 but that was from UK Ebay.
It was overseas so prob 3-4 weeks.

I'll have another hunt.

[cbfb]

It was overseas so prob 3-4 weeks.

I'll have another hunt.

Ah yeah prob a bit long to wait. Shes known about it for some time though, now in a bit of a panic 24 hours before the WOF runs out :facepalm:

[ducatilover]

Ah yeah prob a bit long to wait. Shes known about it for some time though, now in a bit of a panic 24 hours before the WOF runs out :facepalm:
You often get a few weeks grace with the rozzers here if the WOF has run out.
I'm trying to get the pressure sensor part number as these are very problematic, it'll throw a G201 code is it's bung.

EDIT, 01345 fault code sorry.

[cbfb]

You often get a few weeks grace with the rozzers here if the WOF has run out.
I'm trying to get the pressure sensor part number as these are very problematic, it'll throw a G201 code is it's bung.

That's the trouble with cars these days, they're like bloody R2D2 with their error codes and sensors :angry:

[ducatilover]

That's the trouble with cars these days, they're like bloody R2D2 with their error codes and sensors :angry:
:facepalm: Pretty much!!!!!!