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Ivan
5th May 2011, 18:17
just for anyone intrested Im building a bike completly from ground up based off a 1996 Honda RS125,

we are building our own frame jig and everything for hopes of in the future being able to produce a formula 3 bike

Hers some pics anyway ill update more as it slowly comes together

The forks were originally from the chinese 125 dirt bike they have since been turned down in a lathe and shortened up with new springs from a xl185 in there,

The headset is my biggest down fall im going to haveto build a new one I weighed it before and it weighs 4 1/2 kg's too heavy I think?

The RS is the bike all the measurements and angles came from the tube framing im using sits on the RS and lines up perfectly its exactly the same,

The XL motor fits inside the frame width perfectly and is just the right height I am building a mould off my RS tank and building a fibreglass dummy cover so it resembles the shape of the RS as well but will have to build a custom tank that fits inside this

TZ350
5th May 2011, 20:12
Very interesting project, please keep posting as it progresses.

Arronduke
5th May 2011, 22:06
Impressed... great enineering skill... but why an XL motor... cant fing a honda 90 engine?:killingme

Ivan
5th May 2011, 22:15
Cheers guys will keep you posted,

Just fully assembled 1 fork tonight down fall is they rebound so fast compression is really good but rebound is abit agressive,


By the weekend it will be alot more like a bike!

And because the XL motors are such a good engine interchangble with alot of XR parts including the 200 head which has alot bigger valves and ports

F5 Dave
6th May 2011, 10:04
Chance of this ever seeing a race track?

on past performance one would have to say; a little less than Nil before you lose interest & give up.

& this is the most ambitious by far.

4th time lucky?

Ivan
6th May 2011, 12:19
haha, This time it will, It has to be ready for another event I am racing it at, and my dad needs the jig to make other bikes for people at college to use,

So he is also putting alot of effort into it.

The last few I was young only 16 years old and didnt really have much of an idea as to what I was doing I just started and got in there, then SV650's and ZX6RR's came and took all my intrest and I concentrated on them,

Then piss drinking came and partying in town haha now im like a old man I spend heaps of time at home so have decided to potter out to the sheds on nights I can be bothered and on weekends and spend a few hours building it,

jasonu
6th May 2011, 13:00
The Aprillia RS125 trip clamps will work, are strong and don't weigh much. Ditch the chinky forks and use some RGV250 USD's. You will have to shorten them by around 75mm but will be a much better fork. Brice Minto from Buckets and bits in Welly has some for not much $'s.
Are you using chromemoly tubeing or ???
What are you doing for a swingarm? I might have something you can use. PM if interested.
Very interested in your progress reports.
Anyone got an RS gas tank they want to sell preferably 95 or newer but 89 thru 94 would be OK too.

ajturbo
6th May 2011, 15:31
Good one Ivan...!!!:woohoo:

White trash
6th May 2011, 15:51
Is that tattoo real?

Arronduke
6th May 2011, 20:37
wow this is so cool..... my next bike... Oh need to learn to ride first:violin:

Ivan
7th May 2011, 11:29
Is that tattoo real?

yeah it is hahahaha

Ivan
7th May 2011, 11:33
The Aprillia RS125 trip clamps will work, are strong and don't weigh much. Ditch the chinky forks and use some RGV250 USD's. You will have to shorten them by around 75mm but will be a much better fork. Brice Minto from Buckets and bits in Welly has some for not much $'s.
Are you using chromemoly tubeing or ???
What are you doing for a swingarm? I might have something you can use. PM if interested.
Very interested in your progress reports.
Anyone got an RS gas tank they want to sell preferably 95 or newer but 89 thru 94 would be OK too.


Hey man thats the plan is to get all those parts and put them on im just for now using these partsto get it at least standing up and looking like a bike

Ive had my eyes on trademe the last few nights looking at bits and bobs

Are those RGV forks on a 95+ RS or is that a pre 95 with a 95 on swing arm???

Im just at the momment using tube mild steel and bracing it like this
http://www.singlecellracing.com/images/apr3.jpg

jasonu
7th May 2011, 11:48
Hey man thats the plan is to get all those parts and put them on im just for now using these partsto get it at least standing up and looking like a bike

Ive had my eyes on trademe the last few nights looking at bits and bobs

Are those RGV forks on a 95+ RS or is that a pre 95 with a 95 on swing arm???

Im just at the momment using tube mild steel and bracing it like this
http://www.singlecellracing.com/images/apr3.jpg

95 frame and arm. The forks pictured are 91 RS1215 which have since been sold. I have a set of 95 USD RS125 forks for it.

Ivan
7th May 2011, 13:09
what is the motor?

jasonu
7th May 2011, 15:08
what is the motor?

KE 125 disk valve bottom end with RG400 cylinder 22-25hp depending on which pipe is fitted. Built 13 years ago.

Ivan
15th May 2011, 14:09
So spent yesterday afternoon and evening doing some more work on the bike its looking good inmy opinion let me know what you think

Ivan
15th May 2011, 14:11
and some more even

It fits the 125 tank so means so far I have the frame built right

boostin
15th May 2011, 19:08
Hi Ivan,

Just a quick question, how are you keeping the headstock square while wielding?

Ivan
15th May 2011, 19:14
Hi Ivan,

Just a quick question, how are you keeping the headstock square while wielding?

Hey Good question I actually had the headstock bolted to the triple clamps and lowered to correct height with the fork tubes attached to the jig,

Also checked it with a level as well lets hope this works aye..... I had quite a few ideas we have now modified the jig again to get a much more accurate holder,

This is now our test frame as theres a few things we dont like with it and we aresetting the jig up even better and going to make some more chassis

TZ350
15th May 2011, 19:45
So spent yesterday afternoon and evening doing some more work on the bike its looking good inmy opinion let me know what you think

Very interesting, making a new frame, thats top Buckiting stuff, much impressed.

Ivan
15th May 2011, 23:47
its quite fun aye

jasonu
16th May 2011, 05:09
What grade and size of tubing are you using?

Ivan
16th May 2011, 12:23
just mild steel 2mm thick cant remember the pipe sizing the back swing arm/ motor mount rails are 40mm tubing

White trash
16th May 2011, 18:11
Is that tattoo real?


yeah it is hahahaha

There wasn't actually a cool or good answer to that question, you shouldn't have bothered...............

F5 Dave
16th May 2011, 20:57
um. . .so those hoady downpipe bits at the back are part of the jig & will be cut off?. Also doesn't the tank fuel outlet hit the top of the engine? or has that been cut out of the RS tank?

Ivan
17th May 2011, 11:23
um. . .so those hoady downpipe bits at the back are part of the jig & will be cut off?. Also doesn't the tank fuel outlet hit the top of the engine? or has that been cut out of the RS tank?

Im not using a RS tank, I am making a mould of it and building a Fibreglass tank cover so it looks right and mounting another 4 litre tank on the bike itself


As for the down pipe bits Im sorry I dont know what you mean?

Ivan
17th May 2011, 11:24
There wasn't actually a cool or good answer to that question, you shouldn't have bothered...............

Well thats your opinion I like it and thats all that counts at the end of the day its on my body and I know I have it there for ever

F5 Dave
17th May 2011, 12:01
...
As for the down pipe bits Im sorry I dont know what you mean?
The long unsupported bits that are touching the ground. I can't picture that you would put the pivot anywhere near the end of them.

Ivan
17th May 2011, 12:21
it is no were near finished they are going to be supported and are going to have the swing arm mount of them that whole end needs finishing the top and bottom frame rails still need bracing to each other.

This is copied of going through photos on singlecellracing.com

we still have to build the rear shock mount to, still have to get a decent shock

F5 Dave
17th May 2011, 14:47
Ahh, the Tigcraft Aprilia550. It has curved tubes there & appears to use the swingarm pivot into the rear engine case integrated. So essentially you will be cutting off most of those down bits & welding on a pivot point & then welding the curved extensions on underneath.

Ivan
17th May 2011, 19:21
Im going to have no linkage system either so it will be frame mounted then directly on the swing arm, kind of like your RS chassis except it wont be horizontal set up it will be vertical

White trash
17th May 2011, 20:40
While a PDS rear shock system is obviously easier to mount and get going, it's far more difficult to alter the rising rate should you wish to a later date, whereas a linkage is fairly simple to make more or less agressive as needed. How are you calculating the correct measurments? That shit gives me a major headache.

Yow Ling
18th May 2011, 06:26
While a PDS rear shock system is obviously easier to mount and get going, it's far more difficult to alter the rising rate should you wish to a later date, whereas a linkage is fairly simple to make more or less agressive as needed. How are you calculating the correct measurments? That shit gives me a major headache.

With at least 100 fxrs, all early rs125, and all twinshockers using the system that Ivan is going to use, there is a possibility you are overthinking this. Measurments are usually calculated by where the shock looks best, and which bit of the frame and swingarm are reached by the shock. Adjustments would normally be considered later. this is buckets !

Ivan
18th May 2011, 12:14
Haha Yow is onto it,

I Havent even started on the rear shock setup yet

White trash
18th May 2011, 12:17
With at least 100 fxrs, all early rs125, and all twinshockers using the system that Ivan is going to use, there is a possibility you are overthinking this. Measurments are usually calculated by where the shock looks best, and which bit of the frame and swingarm are reached by the shock. Adjustments would normally be considered later. this is buckets !

A very valid point, hadn't really thought of it like that. All good chasis builders had to start somewhere I guess.

quallman1234
18th May 2011, 17:05
Looking great ivan, keep at it... I'm sure you'll learn plently from this experiment and make even better frames in the future.
Hopefully we'll see it rolling...

Are you going to make your own swing arm?

Ivan
18th May 2011, 17:06
I mean the plan in future is to get the jig sorted 100% now and then give it to a engineer to build me a chrome molly chassis for F3,

But I have a dirty idea to build something in between this frame and the length of a modern 600 so it will be relativly short and not as high and have a f2 bike built kind of NZ's first Moto2 bike I guess but thats just a idea not a plan,

If I build a F3 version of this it will be running a linkage system and what not

Its actually a shame the shock has to run there as I wanted to build a underseat exhaust system for this but looks like its going to have to be a under motor system

boostin
18th May 2011, 17:36
Its actually a shame the shock has to run there as I wanted to build a underseat exhaust system for this but looks like its going to have to be a under motor system

You could look at moving the shock to the front of the engine like the Britten did.

Like this?

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=162743793773211&set=a.162743760439881.32758.162739597106964&type=1

Ivan
18th May 2011, 19:50
to much effort for a underseat exhaust system

Bert
4th June 2011, 15:17
You might find this slightly interesting:
http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2011/05/10/mj-works-250rr-designing-and-building-your-own-250cc-racer/

It made me smile when I read about it.

just noticed that its already been posted :facepalm:

Ivan
4th June 2011, 16:58
thats pretty cool link, nothing new on myne so no updates

Ivan
19th December 2011, 16:02
well nw I regret not going to a linkage setup as this direct mount is a pain plus I really need a new swingarm mynes bent and will take abit to get straight and weighs a ton at the mo I spent the first bit of time on it in ages the other week since my 450 got stolen I have had no bike so want to get something going looks pretty cool so far

Bert
19th December 2011, 17:04
well nw I regret not going to a linkage setup as this direct mount is a pain plus I really need a new swingarm mynes bent and will take abit to get straight and weighs a ton at the mo I spent the first bit of time on it in ages the other week since my 450 got stolen I have had no bike so want to get something going looks pretty cool so far

photos mate. give us a looksee at your workman ship:corn::corn:



anyone got a honda 125 ignition setup for cdi like stator flywheel and cdi?? my current bottom end is points and top end cdi and was hoping to convert it without going total loss

I've got an old SL/xl 125 flywheel and magneto (and most of a motor); but I also have another mini rotor (new) that should fit. give me a yell; maybe you should pop up and grab a swingarm from the local bike wreckers at the same time (he's cheap as chips)..

quallman1234
19th December 2011, 20:27
well nw I regret not going to a linkage setup as this direct mount is a pain plus I really need a new swingarm mynes bent and will take abit to get straight and weighs a ton at the mo I spent the first bit of time on it in ages the other week since my 450 got stolen I have had no bike so want to get something going looks pretty cool so far

Weld a piece of channel to the middle of the swingarm and same to the frame, drill a hole through the channel, and theres your mounts :).

Ivan
20th December 2011, 16:51
photos mate. give us a looksee at your workman ship:corn::corn:




I've got an old SL/xl 125 flywheel and magneto (and most of a motor); but I also have another mini rotor (new) that should fit. give me a yell; maybe you should pop up and grab a swingarm from the local bike wreckers at the same time (he's cheap as chips)..

send me a message if you want to part with motor?

Ivan
20th December 2011, 19:14
ok heres a photo of it roughly mocked up the front end isnt right yet the angle will depend on how i mount the rear shock sorry its blurry my brother wasnt to keen to take a photo for me so this is all i got,

quallman1234
20th December 2011, 20:44
ok heres a photo of it roughly mocked up the front end isnt right yet the angle will depend on how i mount the rear shock sorry its blurry my brother wasnt to keen to take a photo for me so this is all i got,

Cool man, get rid of that 16 on the front ;).

Ivan
20th December 2011, 22:03
ill get it going then worry about that

Yow Ling
21st December 2011, 05:19
Starting to look the part Ivan, not too many people build whole bikes so good on you.
I have a SDR200 swingarm if you want it , a bit heavy but has a linkage and looks pretty cool

Ivan
21st December 2011, 11:23
how much for the sdr swingarm? it looks the buisness looking at photos ill get some proper photos after i knock off work for year have afew things like swing arm to make and really wanna get some better front forks those chinese onesimade aint going to work and the whole front end is currently 8kgs!

Ivan
21st December 2011, 11:26
that photo ive got up is so shit it does have along way to go before being ready asI want it to be perfect and its going to go to a engineer when done to make sure the thing aint going to break on me theres alot of thought gone into this its not going to be perfect and theres going to be nit pickers but im proud of it so far

jasonu
21st December 2011, 12:50
and really wanna get some better front forks those chinese onesimade aint going to work and the whole front end is currently 8kgs!

Re the forks from post #7
The Aprillia RS125 trip clamps will work, are strong and don't weigh much. Ditch the chinky forks and use some RGV250 USD's. You will have to shorten them by around 75mm but will be a much better fork. Brice Minto from Buckets and bits in Welly has some for not much $'s.

F5 Dave
21st December 2011, 13:48
If you had a real solid fixture in the shed you could fit up a mandrel to go through the steering stem. Then rig a loong bar through strategic points & lean on it. Will tell you how much it will flex & if welds will hold (vibration aside).

jasonu
21st December 2011, 13:50
If you had a real solid fixture in the shed you could fit up a mandrel to go through the steering stem. Then rig a loong bar through strategic points & lean on it. Will tell you how much it will flex & if welds will hold (vibration aside).

Very scientific...

F5 Dave
21st December 2011, 13:54
ahh, worked for that Foales chap.

Ivan
21st December 2011, 15:54
my uncles a engineer and is round here all the time so will get him to look over it thanks for the advice,


I will get around to some RGV forks when I have some money at the momment ive got to many other priorities to spend money on so this is getting the cheapest options at mo,


I was actually thinking of getting some conventinal forks of say a mb50 etc and making them fit then playing with the damper rods to get the front end to work as good as I can get it without paying big money for emulators,

F5 Dave
21st December 2011, 17:08
MB50?? they are about 25mm!

Ivan
21st December 2011, 17:16
MB50?? they are about 25mm!

lol i just threw a name out of the air dave haha

Ivan
21st December 2011, 17:17
rg 50 forks probably wouldnt be to bad i cant remember how big they are tho, Ive got the Aprilia RS50 forks still they would be good but need to have them machined down quite alot to make them fit plus I think Kyle wants them back but they would be the ones i want I reckon

Ivan
21st December 2011, 17:19
and after all that time building it off measurements i sat it next to the rs125 everything lines up the same sweet!!!!! one problem a frame rail when mounted was mounted on a angle and its made that out of line it wont affect the bike but really is annoying the tank sits flush on one side and one theres a gap will probably cut it out and weld it back in the correct place

Ivan
21st December 2011, 17:55
as you can see on the right hand top rail its twisted down im going to cut it out and bend it correct shape again and put some tube inside just to reinforce it since its been cut there and yip i know before anyone spots it out to me the right hand side shock mount has a hole in the weld those bars you can see i welded in actually run all the way to the bottom of the frame were the swingarm mount is so i really reinforced that area also on here im going to weld some flat solid steel plates as peg hangers which will also strengthen the frame and strenghten the swingarm mount

I still have to make the subframe and work the front end out still

Moooools
21st December 2011, 19:07
I don't get why you decided to make the frame to fit an RS 125 tank, a very expensive tank that is in relatively short supply. At least it is light. Frame is looking pretty good though.

How is the overall weight going?

Ivan
21st December 2011, 19:16
I don't get why you decided to make the frame to fit an RS 125 tank, a very expensive tank that is in relatively short supply. At least it is light. Frame is looking pretty good though.

How is the overall weight going?

Rs tank is only to get it to fit the frame I built im making a fibreglass mould of it as that belongs on my RS and running a 2 or 3 litre tank like what newmanz sell,

Overall weight at the mo is pretty heavy with those forks and swing arm those triple clamps are the killers they weigh nearly 4kg on thereown the rear swingarm is solid steel so weighs abit

Ivan
21st December 2011, 19:17
Rs tank is only to get it to fit the frame I built im making a fibreglass mould of it as that belongs on my RS and running a 2 or 3 litre tank like what newmanz sell,

Overall weight at the mo is pretty heavy with those forks and swing arm those triple clamps are the killers they weigh nearly 4kg on thereown the rear swingarm is solid steel so weighs abit

Like for the XL motor to fit how I want it to I need a smaller tank or a "dummy tank" as the head fits up into there otherwise I would actually have to chop a tank up to make it fit

Ivan
27th December 2011, 14:32
about to mould the RS tank today and start building the rear subframe also


now a question how much travel is needed in a set of forks for racing As I know the current forks I have are to heavy but can use my RS50 forks just need some of the tops machined down but want to check out how much travel I am going to need on them before doing this as I dont want to cut them down and wreck them if it aint going to work

Moooools
28th December 2011, 08:09
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Full_stop

Ivan
28th December 2011, 12:21
i cant help my spelling that I have dyslexia

Moooools
28th December 2011, 12:41
I know plenty of people with Dyslexia, who know that when there is a change thought, a full stop must be used.

Even my grammar and spelling can get bad.

If you used full stops then people may actually know what you are on about; no matter how bad your spelling or grammar is.

#Rant

Ivan
28th December 2011, 13:35
im gathering you couldnt tell it was sarcasm

husaberg
28th December 2011, 14:08
to much effort for a underseat exhaust system

Side mount shock like the Alchemy

you know it makes sense even if it doesn't'

If you haven't heard of the Alchemy google it.
Rising rate designed by a New Zealander (can't remenber his name but he was a Uni at the time)It was Rob Henry at the Auckland institute of Technology no relation to Brook
Bike made made by another New Zealander. (Brook Henry)
Engine plates by New Zealander Ken Macintosh
assembled/built in Perth.

=Great Aussie Bike:woohoo:

Ivan
28th December 2011, 16:06
Side mount shock like the Alchemy

you know it makes sense even if it doesn't'

If you haven't heard of the Alchemy google it.
Rising rate designed by a New Zealander (can't remenber his name but he was a Uni at the time)
bike made made by another New Zealander. (Brook Henry)
built in Perth.
=Great Aussie Bike:woohoo:

I considered this kind of setup but have gone for the conventional setup as I know it works and building the exhaust system will actually work quite nicely still

Moooools
28th December 2011, 16:27
im gathering you couldnt tell it was sarcasm

No because it was about the same as everything else you had written. And you could easily pass as dyslexic. :innocent:

Ivan
28th December 2011, 16:33
well I have now built my own copper head gaskets

realisticly the old points xl bottom end is no good so will be trying to get a later model cdi one and keeping this motor for the gear box and crank as spares

koba
28th December 2011, 16:44
well I have now built my own copper head gaskets

realisticly the old points xl bottom end is no good so will be trying to get a later model cdi one and keeping this motor for the gear box and crank as spares

Because of the points? Or are did they sort a design fault out when they moved to CDI?

If you are worried about points, don't; they should be fine.

The advantage of more modern stuff would be fuck all to nothing, if the points are kept in good nick and well adjusted. The advantage newer-than-points systems is less maintenance which shouldn't be a problem on a race bike.

There may be an exception if you are revving it significantly higher than the points were designed for. I doubt it would be a problem before all that silly four stroke shit starts causing trouble.

Ivan
28th December 2011, 16:53
Because of the points? Or are did they sort a design fault out when they moved to CDI?

If you are worried about points, don't; they should be fine.

The advantage of more modern stuff would be fuck all to nothing, if the points are kept in good nick and well adjusted. The advantage newer-than-points systems is less maintenance which shouldn't be a problem on a race bike.

There may be an exception if you are revving it significantly higher than the points were designed for. I doubt it would be a problem before all that silly four stroke shit starts causing trouble.

Nah its when converting them over to CDI the backing plate will be sitting real far out and wont have any room to bolt flywheel onto the crank.

Im not worried about points its that the motor I have is SOOOO old its the old single piece head and I really wanted to keep that without ruining it as im gathering they are pretty rare to come across

koba
28th December 2011, 17:04
Nah its when converting them over to CDI the backing plate will be sitting real far out and wont have any room to bolt flywheel onto the crank.

Im not worried about points its that the motor I have is SOOOO old its the old single piece head and I really wanted to keep that without ruining it as im gathering they are pretty rare to come across

True, ruining rare stuff is best avoided.

Ivan
28th December 2011, 17:10
True, ruining rare stuff is best avoided.

yeah even the bottom end is abit rare to be fucking around with,

So close yet so far away

Henk
28th December 2011, 17:13
Umm I thought the one piece / two piece head motors had the points at the top. All the 100cc versions I have in bits in the garage are like that. The only points at the bottom ones I've seen are the later model XL100s and XR100 motors, I am making the bold assumption that the 100 and 125 are very similar. Does it have two round plugs to cover the Valve adjuster thingies or one cover that covers the lot?

Ivan
28th December 2011, 17:15
Umm I thought the one piece / two piece head motors had the points at the top. All the 100cc versions I have in bits in the garage are like that. The only points at the bottom ones I've seen are the later model XL100s and XR100 motors, I am making the bold assumption that the 100 and 125 are very similar. Does it have two round plugs to cover the Valve adjuster thingies or one cover that covers the lot?

Nah your right the points are up the top on the camshaft, But the flywheel and stator are down bottom after taking the stator and flywheel off and lining up a pit bike stator and flywheel it wouldnt fit and then looking at it I dont think its going to work

husaberg
28th December 2011, 18:35
Because of the points? Or are did they sort a design fault out when they moved to CDI?

If you are worried about points, don't; they should be fine.

The advantage of more modern stuff would be fuck all to nothing, if the points are kept in good nick and well adjusted. The advantage newer-than-points systems is less maintenance which shouldn't be a problem on a race bike.

There may be an exception if you are revving it significantly higher than the points were designed for. I doubt it would be a problem before all that silly four stroke shit starts causing trouble.

The Honda 250 fours and the 250 6 ran to 18000 plus the 50s and the 125 even higher mainly always on points
on points the problem with the honda ignition set up is when the head cam tunnel wears the ignition wanders at revs not to mention the effect from the camchain.

Hilleye
28th December 2011, 21:54
The Honda 250 fours and the 250 6 ran to 18000 plus the 50s and the 125 even higher mainly always on points
on points the problem with the honda ignition set up is when the head cam tunnel wears the ignition wanders at revs not to mention the effect from the camchain.

To true, but the points cam on those engines were designed to prevent points float at very high revs. I'd say the points cam on the engine in question for this bike probably isn't.

husaberg
28th December 2011, 22:11
To true, but the points cam on those engines were designed to prevent points float at very high revs. I'd say the points cam on the engine in question for this bike probably isn't.

They also had a couple of springs and were gear driven as well.

Intersetingly the BSA and Triumph threes had a quill drive to stop the timing wandering from flex from the UHC. (OHV engine)
But the 250 4 and 250 6 had to fire a lot more cylinders as well a lot more often.
I think the 250/6 latter became the first engine to have a CDI setup ( I could be wrong though)
Even with more than one set of points.

The H100 motor you now had was originally raced on points and had no trouble running past 11000rpm which is EQ to 22000rpm for Ivans bike Food for thought.

I tried to run the CR80 ignition that you now also have with a XR200 CDI unit for fixed timing.
It ran quite well down low and at idle, but missed then cut out completely over about 6-7000rpm.:weird:
It took me a little to twig that it was because that would be 12-14000rpm on the std XR200 set with the trigger driven at 1/2 engine speed.:facepalm:


modified version of the RC148, the world's first 5-cylinder 125cc road racer won the 1966 Manufacturers' and Riders' Championships.

Engine Air-Cooled 4-st. Inline-5 DOHC 4-Valve Gear Train Displacement 124.42 cm3
Max.output over 34 PS / 20,500 rpm
Max.speed. over 210 km/h
Weight 85kg
Magneto Ignition
8-Speed Transmission

this link is well worth a read the 1960 honda six the engine contains materials alloys and surface treatments never seen before. Wholly shit what else is Honda Hiding!


In the same way, the seven main bearings are also different, ranging from 24mm in diameter at the center to 14mm for the outer pairs. The crankshaft itself runs on carriers bolted to the top crankcase half, which takes all the loads. Thus the bottom half can be made much lighter and flimsier from magnesium alloy.Similarly, the camshafts (each head has four, linked together in pairs) are barrel-shaped, concentrating their mass at the point of greatest flex, the center, and thus saving weight at their ends. But this in turn means the geometry of the valve gear varies from one cylinder to the next, with different cam profiles. The benefit is tiny, the resulting difficulties immense, yet at every turn Honda went to such obsessive lengths seemingly regardless of cost.


Yet even that was nothing compared to the engine parts. Most of these were made by JPX, a French company based near Le Mans, France, which specializes in aircraft and high-tech F1 car components. At JPX, the original engine was thoroughly photographed, then carefully stripped, and a detailed assembly handbook created. Every item was measured to the minutest accuracy and X-rayed, and had detailed three-dimensional drawings made--502 in all. Sophisticated hardness testing and metallurgical analysis was conducted on every piece, which revealed some interesting issues. Not a single engine bearing was a standard size, and some of the alloys and surface treatments used were quite unknown to modern science. Soichiro Honda, founder of the company, was also a gifted metallurgist.




The engine is riddled with galleries and tiny oilways, unseen by anything but X-ray, with some only 1mm apart. Sometimes two narrow oilways are combined, saving perhaps 0.5mm in width on a single, larger one. Cumulatively this allows the engine to be perhaps 3mm narrower than it might otherwise--yet another minute but worthwhile return on the work involved.





Read more: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/features/122_honda_rc174_six/viewall.html#ixzz1hpLB9Jvr

Ivan
29th December 2011, 16:42
ok so heres the dilemah if you can understand by the pictures what I mean I dont have much room and was wondering how I could bolt the inner rotor kit to this as theres no room



as this is the type of flywheel i should be running http://www.pacre.co.uk/Parts/185-200_XL/Images/PACRE-(70-71).jpg

Henk
29th December 2011, 16:52
Rick52 has had some luck with throwing away all the stock stuff and fitting a pit bike ignition. Admittedly he's using the newer XL100S motor and had to get a bit of work done to get the tapers to match.

Henk
29th December 2011, 16:55
Your other option would be to do what I have done with the XL100 motor in our second F5 bike which was to unplug the stator (Too lazy to take it out and it locates the oil seal on the cover) and run the standard points with a coil from supercheap total loss.

Rick 52
29th December 2011, 16:58
253931253932

Hope this helps !

Ivan
29th December 2011, 17:03
bummer your stator and flywheel were dry wernt they? so they were sealed off were as myne isnt so I cant leave the cover off as all theoil will leak out


Henk Im actually consdering putting the points cam on the 200 head and running it points setup using the stator and all now I have 2 motors both identical tho and get one machined up to run the setup Rick has somehow

Henk
29th December 2011, 17:19
I bought the pit bike setup that Rick is running, it all got too hard so on sold it to him, I think the taper on the later motors is well different to the earlier ones since I couldn't see a way to make it work without adding material somewhere. Went total loss as a short term fix to get the thing on track. Took it to the track twice with one broken throttle cable and one flat battery (didn't charge it Saturday night between practice and racing) before we found the solution. Take out the XL motor and put in a CRF motor, the new engine is smaller, lighter, has an ignition system that doesn't require a battery and makes more and nicer power.
Main reason I went total loss to start with is I wanted to get away from the 6V battery and thirty year old charging system that came with the bike. Worked OK as far as it went but much prefer not having to charge batteries as I tend to be a bit disorganized on race weekends, especially at away meets.

One of the guys that turned up at buckets at one stage took some pics of my interim solution.

http://littleslugger.wordpress.com/page/2/

Not sure if that will get you to the page in question as the site is a bit odd but it's the XL motor in an FXR frame.


Edit: seems to work.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 17:20
what is actually stopping me from running the points stator and flywheel as the pulse coil is attached to the cam isnt it??? http://grimcyclesalvage.com/catalog/images/p/1030/103008_02_xl.jpg



So I wouldnt need to find a way of adding the pulse coil

Henk
29th December 2011, 17:24
Never bothered trying to get a CDI setup to work. Total loss I ran the points off the end of the cam, coil from supercheap and added a switch to prevent the battery getting drained and the coil getting fried, also threw in two LEDs, one for power on to make it obvious and one for a neutral light because the wife likes having them.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 17:28
Never bothered trying to get a CDI setup to work. Total loss I ran the points off the end of the cam, coil from supercheap and added a switch to prevent the battery getting drained and the coil getting fried, also threw in two LEDs, one for power on to make it obvious and one for a neutral light because the wife likes having them.

I want to try stay clear of total loss for that exact reason if I forget to charge battery or someone else plays and turns the switch on and frys the coil I want to wireit up so I can justpush it in gear and start it, how come you cant do this with a points setup? sorry ive had no experience with points but keep reading all over the net points bikes need a battery to run?

Henk
29th December 2011, 17:37
You can do it with a points set up. The XR100 I bought as an engine donor has a points system and no battery, I guess it all comes down to how the stator is wired up. My first bucket was push and go with a points system, it was a Honda 125 one piece head engine mashed up from various bikes, I have no idea how it was wired though as I bought it, ran it for a couple of months and then went over to the dark side and bought an FXR. Suspect that if you dug through the wiring diagrams it would be possible to work it out, or track down one of the guys that used to run these engines back when they were common.
To be honest I'm not 100% sure that it ran points now. Never really spent much time dicking about with it, got bored with falling off the bicycle tyres before then.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 17:47
fuck it im going to run points for now then get my auto lectrical mate when hes over here to help me out,

Henk
29th December 2011, 18:27
If you go total loss you should have something up and running in no time, be aware that the coil and condenser you have a re likely for a six volt system so you might have to junk them and fit something a little later model.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 18:48
nah I have a cdi coil off a late model xr200

husaberg
29th December 2011, 18:54
nah I have a cdi coil off a late model xr200
CDI coil is no good with points sorry. Learnt that the hard way myself.:facepalm:

Ivan
29th December 2011, 18:57
my mate reckons he can wire it so it runs the points still and then the points trigger the cdi instead of pulse coil would be pretty cool way of doing it,


Were do you get a points coil from these days otherwise?

Henk
29th December 2011, 19:15
Repco or supercheap. I have a car coil running in the XL100 F5 bike and have seen something similar on a bike at Roys Hill.

husaberg
29th December 2011, 20:46
my mate reckons he can wire it so it runs the points still and then the points trigger the cdi instead of pulse coil would be pretty cool way of doing it,


Were do you get a points coil from these days otherwise?

do you mean you have a CD! Stator or more likely that he will wire it that the pulse coil triggers the non cdi magneto ignition?
cause it could be wired as a ET ignition without the cdi pulse trigger if you wanted.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 20:48
do you mean you have a CD! Stator or more likely that he will wire it that the pulse coil triggers the non cdi magneto ignition?
cause it could be wired as a ET ignition without the pulse coil if you wanted.



nah he said he could probably wire it so it runs the points stator and flywheel all the wayup to the points and insteadof using a pulse coil to trigger to send the signal to the cdi you use the points to send the points break as a trigger for the cdi and then run a cdi and cdi coil


what is a ET ignition?

husaberg
29th December 2011, 20:51
nah he said he could probably wire it so it runs the points stator and flywheel all the wayup to the points and insteadof using a pulse coil to trigger to send the signal to the cdi you use the points to send the points break as a trigger for the cdi and then run a cdi and cdi coil


what is a ET ignition?

Energy transfer old bsa and triumph comp bikes used to use it.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 20:58
what differenceis running points over a cdi going to make??? what is points float?

husaberg
29th December 2011, 21:09
what differenceis running points over a cdi going to make??? what is points float?

less need for feeler gauges. cdi will give a more reliable spark but its not that important really but things do add up. but on a two stroke lots.

ps heard of google I hear it has lots of answers.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 21:16
less need for feeler gauges. cdi will give a more reliable spark but its not that important really but things do add up. but on a two stroke lots.

ps heard of google I hear it has lots of answers.

as I asked that on here I looked it up.

Im trying to see if my mate has my old ct110 motor as that as the flywheel setup I need

Henk
29th December 2011, 21:22
Ivan, my two cents for what it's worth. Use the existing points, run total loss with a coil from a hi ace van if that's all you can find and get it running, you can go hunting more power, less weight etc later. With your frame being a scratch build you want the engine room to be as simple and reliable as possible to start with. If it handles as well as it should given the geometry you are basing it on you will be looking at an engine with more development potential before too long in any case.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 21:25
Ivan, my two cents for what it's worth. Use the existing points, run total loss with a coil from a hi ace van if that's all you can find and get it running, you can go hunting more power, less weight etc later. With your frame being a scratch build you want the engine room to be as simple and reliable as possible to start with. If it handles as well as it should given the geometry you are basing it on you will be looking at an engine with more development potential before too long in any case.

yeah well I have 2 motors now so am building one as a straight points ignition setup motor to get the bike going but am also building the other motor into the faster engine

Ivan
29th December 2011, 21:28
Half of the tank mould poured the other half today so tommorow morning we will seperate both sides fill in any small holes paint the mould and saturday will have a first tank made

Henk
29th December 2011, 21:31
yeah well I have 2 motors now so am building one as a straight points ignition setup motor to get the bike going but am also building the other motor into the faster engine

I hate to break it to you but an old Honda CB single based motor is never going to be competitive at the sharp end of the field. A CB twin maybe but the only ones running at the front down here have been built and tuned by JC and are the max capacity the rules allow and have had twenty odd years of development, the only Honda singles in the A grade here are GL based, have had serious work and are running mid pack at best. In the long run I'd guess you are going to be looking at an FXR, Luncheon, CBR150 motor or dare I say it a two stroke if you have the patience and ability.

Ivan
29th December 2011, 21:34
I hate to break it to you but an old Honda CB single based motor is never going to be competitive at the sharp end of the field. A CB twin maybe but the only ones running at the front down here have been built and tuned by JC and are the max capacity the rules allow and have had twenty odd years of development, the only Honda singles in the A grade here are GL based, have had serious work and are running mid pack at best. In the long run I'd guess you are going to be looking at an FXR, Luncheon, CBR150 motor or dare I say it a two stroke if you have the patience and ability.

thats the plan tho is to make the motor as fast as I can get it which I believe I can build it pretty damn quick with the right pieces and let the frame make up for the rest of it

Ivan
29th December 2011, 21:36
if one of those motors came up at the right price i would put it in but really i cant be bothered spending big money for something im building for fun, I spent big money on a bike to make me go fast and thats a brand new 450 motox bike this here is just a play bike

Ivan
7th January 2012, 19:14
Well I did a few hours work today hopefully its coming along nicely any ideas ill listen to the tank we have now filled in the holes in the mould sanded it back and its almost ready to make the fibreglass tank out of frames getting there and is looking more like a bike im quite happy it now rolls on its own now need to geta proper shock for it but will be getting that more towards the final stages, the front ends going and making way for the rs50 front end to lighten this down alot! made the subframe if anyone has seen a late model rs subframe the rails on myne are slightly longer due to the tank not being real and just a dummy to give it some support I have welded the mounts for the subframe to the frame so now I just need to put the tank on and I can then mount the seat in correct position,

I cut the bent frame rail out and twisted it into correct position I have even reinforced it by putting a piece of thinner tube in were I made the cuts and welded that into place so it should be strong I have started bracing the chassis now zig zagging the frame but ran out of steel so couldnt do anymore for now

Moooools
7th January 2012, 21:46
Actually looking pretty good.

Burning questions:

1. How long is that swing arm compared to the stock rs125? It look really long in the pics.

2. Will the angle of the shock not make for a decreasing rate spring? (As the swing arm lifts the force becomes more parallel to the spring)

3. What does it weigh?


Aesthetically it looks sweet though.

Ivan
7th January 2012, 23:32
identical length to RS swing arm, looks really long but I think thats cause it has no bracing like the rs so kinda looks longer than it is the wheelbase is the same as a 96 RS125

The question regarding shock I dont know I just mounted it there as it fitted the best there haha and cant really tell as that shock is so soft so it just bounces at the momment

Weight I havent measured it but the frame alone is light theres no weight to it pretty much the new front end is superlight as well the swing arm ways a tonne tho theres way to much weight in it but for now until I replace it it will do

I will try measure it up the pictures aint the best using a shit house telecom 60 dollar phone

Bert
8th January 2012, 19:56
Looking really good Ivan.

Ivan
8th January 2012, 21:24
Looking really good Ivan.

Cheers man,
its getting there ill try get some decent pictures of it hopefully have first tank done soon its all just when we get time and couldnt today so hopefully next few evenings i might be able to pop something out

Ivan
10th January 2012, 11:19
come home for lunch and the first tanks in the mould been fibre glassed looking good so far

F5 Dave
10th January 2012, 11:58
hmm, so presumably you used epoxy resin? Or polyester?:pinch:

Ivan
10th January 2012, 18:20
hmm, so presumably you used epoxy resin? Or polyester?:pinch:

dont quoteme on this as dads doing it but im pretty sure its epoxy its what they use for yachts HT9000

gav
10th January 2012, 18:59
I hate to break it to you but an old Honda CB single based motor is never going to be competitive at the sharp end of the field. A CB twin maybe but the only ones running at the front down here have been built and tuned by JC and are the max capacity the rules allow and have had twenty odd years of development, the only Honda singles in the A grade here are GL based, have had serious work and are running mid pack at best. In the long run I'd guess you are going to be looking at an FXR, Luncheon, CBR150 motor or dare I say it a two stroke if you have the patience and ability.

Hate to burst your bubble but there is a CB100 based single down here that will smoke your FXR150. The guys that came down for BoB will no doubt have seen Wallaces wonderful 150cc single in his own home brewed chassis. The bike is seriously fast. With a faster rider on it, the bike would certainly be in the top 5 down here. Pretty sure he's got it to over 20hp now, too.

http://www.marshland.co.nz/CB150Frame.html

Moooools
10th January 2012, 19:20
Hate to burst your bubble but there is a CB100 based single down here that will smoke your FXR150. The guys that came down for BoB will no doubt have seen Wallaces wonderful 150cc single in his own home brewed chassis. The bike is seriously fast. With a faster rider on it, the bike would certainly be in the top 5 down here. Pretty sure he's got it to over 20hp now, too.

http://www.marshland.co.nz/CB150Frame.html

How many dudes you know got the skill to build an engine like that? Not many. If any. Yeah I don't know anybody. (Just call me scribe. Old people refer to this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUgsupXhnPM)
An FXR is a bit easier to make competitive I would think.

But as for Ivan you have been beaten to the post really. I remember seeing that build from a while back now.

And yes International HT9000 is epoxy.

Ivan
10th January 2012, 19:34
i know i was beaten to the frame build but not a gp spec frame Im loving it buildings so much fun
well kind of I started before Crazy-man but hes bound to finish along time before me,

I dont see what is so hard about building a motor like that? Im going to be running high compression the head will be pretty much sitting on the barrel theres a 14 thickness piece of copper seperating them from each other and to seal it all up port and polished head custom exhaust header pipe will match ports and be free flow basically to a muffler, Im going to be running a big carb and probably get the cam ground to road race spec in the end its not going to be the fastest but it should be quick enough and given the fact of what the chassis "should" handle like it will make up for the loss in power by being better in the corners

koba
10th January 2012, 21:11
How many dudes you know got the skill to build an engine like that?

There is a wealth of knowledge about such things held by grizzly old classic racers. I know a few who can work wonders but they are more interested in other things.

speedpro
10th January 2012, 21:27
The "CB100" bike referred to has an XL125S engine it by the looks. It may also be a CB125N but I've never seen one of them in NZ. An XR200 head fits straight on with it's big cam and valves and they come with a pretty good 6-speed gearbox.

Hardly a CB100, eh.

Ivan
10th January 2012, 22:01
it wont be to that level but i done the 200 head and cam

gav
10th January 2012, 22:39
The "CB100" bike referred to has an XL125S engine it by the looks. It may also be a CB125N but I've never seen one of them in NZ. An XR200 head fits straight on with it's big cam and valves and they come with a pretty good 6-speed gearbox.

Hardly a CB100, eh.
Oh sorry, he calls it a CB125, all the same arent they? ;)
He's got a video of the motor running to 12500 rpm as well.

http://youtu.be/PsEFKYULNDc

husaberg
10th January 2012, 22:46
it wont be to that level but i done the 200 head and cam
Here is some Interesting but useless info
200s cams vs 200r cams are surprising different as well. The head is the same minus the decomp, but 200r or the 125s cams are hugely asymmetric lobes which is odd. Can't remember which one it is.

Ivan
11th January 2012, 11:17
first tank out the mould needs a tidy up and strenghten a few places

F5 Dave
11th January 2012, 14:40
Hate to burst your bubble but there is a CB100 based single down here that will smoke your FXR150. The guys that came down for BoB will no doubt have seen Wallaces wonderful 150cc single in his own home brewed chassis. The bike is seriously fast. With a faster rider on it, the bike would certainly be in the top 5 down here. Pretty sure he's got it to over 20hp now, too.

http://www.marshland.co.nz/CB150Frame.html

yeah & I've passed him on my 50. my 100 with at tops 18hp breezed past him a few times in a straight line at the BOB & the GP.

F5 Dave
11th January 2012, 14:43
dont quoteme on this as dads doing it but im pretty sure its epoxy its what they use for yachts HT9000
Good, then it has a good chance of being fuel resistant.

That being said the new unleaded fuels have some nasty aromatics so I'm not sure if that is still the case.

Poly is dodgy unless real thick & even then. . .

jasonu
11th January 2012, 14:50
Hate to burst your bubble but there is a CB100 based single down here that will smoke your FXR150. The guys that came down for BoB will no doubt have seen Wallaces wonderful 150cc single in his own home brewed chassis. The bike is seriously fast. With a faster rider on it, the bike would certainly be in the top 5 down here. Pretty sure he's got it to over 20hp now, too.

http://www.marshland.co.nz/CB150Frame.html

I find all of the above VERY hard to believe.
I am not rubbishing the bike or the owner but I believe Gav's above claims are at best overstated.

speedpro
11th January 2012, 15:14
I think Pete Sale ran a similar motor that he managed to get 20+hp out of. Mind you the cam chain broke 50m from the finish of an Ohakea GP. 3rd place was looking good until then. He coasted over for 4th behind me.

Ivan
11th January 2012, 15:37
Good, then it has a good chance of being fuel resistant.

That being said the new unleaded fuels have some nasty aromatics so I'm not sure if that is still the case.

Poly is dodgy unless real thick & even then. . .

this is only a dummy shell just so the bike looks tidy it wont actually be the fuel tank itself there will be a alloy or similar mini tank under the shell but otherwise the bike would look hideous with its massive gap there would be

Moooools
11th January 2012, 15:46
Good, then it has a good chance of being fuel resistant.

That being said the new unleaded fuels have some nasty aromatics so I'm not sure if that is still the case.

Poly is dodgy unless real thick & even then. . .

The best stuff to use is apparently Vinyl Ester resin. Very chemically resistant. Managed to score some from a boat builder out in review for not much at all. Never ended up using it though.

F5 Dave
11th January 2012, 16:44
I think Pete Sale ran a similar motor that he managed to get 20+hp out of. Mind you the cam chain broke 50m from the finish of an Ohakea GP. 3rd place was looking good until then. He coasted over for 4th behind me.
Yeah Petes bike was fast. I'm not knocking Wallace, hes a nice guy, but there is only so much you can do & I've raced with him a few times, a couple in the last few months (though on my 100). My 50 has the advantage of being light (pity I'm not) & I can pedal it onto the straights ok, but lets be real, I'm not making 20hp & a long track shows up HP.

gav
11th January 2012, 17:27
Yeah well, why believe a dyno printout either ..... :shutup:

koba
11th January 2012, 19:28
I'm not making 20hp & a long track shows up HP.

I sympathise!

F5 Dave
12th January 2012, 08:48
Yeah well, why believe a dyno printout either ..... :shutup:

Depends if you trust the dyno. Some are notoriously optomistic.

Ivan
12th January 2012, 15:27
Depends if you trust the dyno. Some are notoriously optomistic.

hey Dave what foot pegs are you running on your bike as Buckets have to have folding pegs dont they?

F5 Dave
12th January 2012, 15:39
erm some emgo after market ones with some nylon stuffed up the end. I just got some Honda roadbike mounts that they bolt on & put them through the home made hangers. Then drilled & tapped a locating hole into the hangers to run a bolt to stop them rotating.

Ivan
12th January 2012, 16:02
im going to make some hangers to just trace my rs hangers and then get my uncle to use his fancy tracey picture thingy machine that cuts out your picture and run some folding pegs ill have a look for some have some motox ones but they pretty ugly pegs

F5 Dave
12th January 2012, 16:20
yeah that's what I did, but with a vivid marker & went & saw a mate with a bandsaw. I got a grown up to use it as they scare me.

Ivan
12th January 2012, 19:48
yeah i built some riser plates for my sv that way did you lower your peg height down or still running at the rs height im probably going to build myne on a plate with 2 differnt locations 1 at normal RS height and 1 slightly lower if I need to get some leg room

husaberg
12th January 2012, 20:22
yeah i built some riser plates for my sv that way did you lower your peg height down or still running at the rs height im probably going to build myne on a plate with 2 differnt locations 1 at normal RS height and 1 slightly lower if I need to get some leg room

Have a look at a picture of Mick Doohan's bike Adjustable can be real easy and light.

I fact just look at it. As it is beautiful in its purposefulness.OK it doesn't have the beauty of any Bimota, Aprillia, Ducati supermono or Cagiva 500 gp notice how those bikes are all Italian.
in fact have a look at any works bike MX or Moto GP it is amazing some of the little touches.

Ivan
12th January 2012, 20:55
Have a look at a picture of Mick Doohan's bike Adjustable can be real easy and light.

I fact just look at it. As it is beautiful in its purposefulness.OK it doesn't have the beauty of any Bimota, Aprillia, Ducati supermono or Cagiva 500 gp notice how those bikes are all Italian.
in fact have a look at any works bike MX or Moto GP it is amazing some of the little touches.

thats awsome I never thought of that

F5 Dave
13th January 2012, 08:45
ya know I don't think MickyD had to ride on kart tracks with folding pegs. I've made my pegs on my NF4 slightly lower than the swing arm & they only just drag as the bike is so narrow. Just can't tuck up as tight as the 5" nothing 16yrold jockeys they were made for.

Ivan
13th January 2012, 11:23
yeah theres so much height up to the swing arm on my one I think I can go down to there easy without them touching

husaberg
13th January 2012, 16:29
ya know I don't think MickyD had to ride on kart tracks with folding pegs.

Dave it wasn't the foot pegs it was the adjustable bracket. Have another look at it. Although the peg sure is pretty and worth another look.mmmm.....

My pegs are rear sets Daytona ones for a rz250 brought cheap and very yummy same spline as the MB as well.
Although there is nought wrong with alloy pipe as long as its thick enough bung in the end some Knurling and drilled for the pivot of a rear peg.


The MB5 tank in the 2nd pic is a Dummy it has the std oil tank underneath serving as the fuel tank 1.1 liter goes a surprising distance. Don't try that a Ruapuna though.
the plates could have done with some more love though. 4mm plate stolen from a guy building as jetboat. The scilencer is igigation tube 1.6mm thick I can't remember if it was 75mm or 100mm.

gav
13th January 2012, 20:36
Probably helped that Mick didnt have a rear brake lever mounted either. :shifty:

husaberg
13th January 2012, 20:57
Probably helped that Mick didnt have a rear brake lever mounted either. :shifty:
I think he would have rather had a leg that functioned. But as you are winding me up, and who doesn't enjoy being wound up. :niceone:
Honda occasionally let the non Demi gods out on his beast. So they didn't wreak it as they were for Mick when it was finished with they used to do this.
The second one is the reference for the set up as per Mick. The first picture above shows the gear lever it has the same set up and he didn't have enough thumbs to work the gear lever from his handle bars as well.

gav
13th January 2012, 21:43
I've been wondering if James Toseland has considered using a thumb operated throttle since his bung wrist wont let him twist a grip anymore?

husaberg
13th January 2012, 22:26
I've been wondering if James Toseland has considered using a thumb operated throttle since his bung wrist wont let him twist a grip anymore?
Funny enough i have thought about it but I always find it hard but then again I rode ATVs( not racing ones but farm ones) and always i found it hard to use a clutch and a thumb throttle (After i tried out a blaster)it is a head thing for me. I did think of using like a thumb set up with a cable rear disk from a mountain bike. Never really seem much with Micks thumb set up what it looked like either.I always thought it could be a button but not sure if it was a lever.T think the thumb throttle would be tiring to hold open for long periods but if he wants to keeps racing who knows.
Corsers set up here is what i assume Doohans set up was like. I have seen other set ups with just a hydraulic clutch lever mounted below the clutch, but it would be difficult not to mention what would happen if the wrong one was grabbing in the heat of action.

F5 Dave
14th January 2012, 20:11
I've often consider a thumb rear brake on the dirt bike in muddy conditions. Its nice when zappin left to be able to control wheel spin with a little rear brake, bit like Freddie Spencer, but turning right your foot is usually out.

husaberg
14th January 2012, 21:40
I've often consider a thumb rear brake on the dirt bike in muddy conditions. Its nice when zappin left to be able to control wheel spin with a little rear brake, bit like Freddie Spencer, but turning right your foot is usually out.

I finally found a picture of one and it looks like Corsers.

Yeah Dave is sure right (Not often those words are used together in the same sentence):wings:
A thumb brake on the dirtbike it could be a real improvement.
Plus I find your hands are a lot more sensitive, and Brembo rear brakes are also fierce.

Ivan
8th February 2012, 18:56
Well shes been a while been busy but did abit more tonight its resembling a bike now:msn-wink:

crazy man
9th February 2012, 02:13
Well shes been a while been busy but did abit more tonight its resembling a bike now:msn-wink:l ran a 2 stroke ignition on my xls 125 small fly wheel on the side think it was of a rm125 . you need some megacycle cams ground up. l have the profile of prombly the fastest honda 125 ever built. it was used in the first 4 stroke to ever win a gp

F5 Dave
9th February 2012, 08:28
So Morleys then. Erm memmory grey. . .maybe it was Kris riding, blue tank. . .whatever


So a flash of primer or a squirt of WD before the frame rusted to shiet was a bridge too far?

Ivan
9th February 2012, 11:07
So Morleys then. Erm memmory grey. . .maybe it was Kris riding, blue tank. . .whatever


So a flash of primer or a squirt of WD before the frame rusted to shiet was a bridge too far?

its only surface rust nothing major at all a buff up afterwards and then a full paint job shell be mint

Ivan
9th February 2012, 11:12
l ran a 2 stroke ignition on my xls 125 small fly wheel on the side think it was of a rm125 . you need some megacycle cams ground up. l have the profile of prombly the fastest honda 125 ever built. it was used in the first 4 stroke to ever win a gp

once i get it going we might have to talk about them, The problem with this one is most honda ignitions were dry there was a bit of case between them and a oil seal on crank this motor isnt so all the elctronics are submerged and i dont know wether or not all electronics can handle that

F5 Dave
9th February 2012, 11:21
Its only surface rust until it reaches the other side I guess:confused:.

Ivan
9th February 2012, 11:27
Its only surface rust until it reaches the other side I guess:confused:.

its not even major at all trust me my brothers a panel beater if he thought it was bad he would tell me theres stuff all there to be honest looks worse in the photo than in reality

crazy man
9th February 2012, 14:50
once i get it going we might have to talk about them, The problem with this one is most honda ignitions were dry there was a bit of case between them and a oil seal on crank this motor isnt so all the elctronics are submerged and i dont know wether or not all electronics can handle thatyou machine up a plate with a seal in it and the main shaft sticks out.the electronice are in the dry! Do you want me to post a pic?

Ivan
9th February 2012, 17:47
yeah if youve got one just so i can see how it looks when done

Buckets4Me
10th February 2012, 05:38
Its only surface rust until it reaches the other side I guess:confused:.

i've seen buckets being raced with more (and when it was mentioned to the guy he sprayed it in laquer for all to admire )

Clivoris
10th February 2012, 11:42
Oi! What's my Mum's sewing box doing in those photo's Ivan?

Bert
24th October 2012, 20:46
What's the Guts Ivan....
got this thing going yet? how did the moulded tank work out for you?

crazy man
27th October 2012, 17:00
yeah if youve got one just so i can see how it looks when done272300sorry it took so long

TZ350
29th October 2012, 19:09
Great idea but why have the coils had new wires soldered to them, what are they soldered to on the other end?

I had always thought those early ignitions (RM CR KX) had retard built into them, how do you get them to advance on the 4-stroke.

I am very interested because I have one of those units and I need to adapt an ignition to my Grandsons SL100 and you idea looks the biz.

crazy man
30th October 2012, 06:07
Great idea but why have the coils had new wires soldered to them, what are they soldered to on the other end?

I had always thought those early ignitions (RM CR KX) had retard built into them, how do you get them to advance on the 4-stroke.

I am very interested because I have one of those units and I need to adapt an ignition to my Grandsons SL100 and you idea looks the biz.its just had repair job done to it. l just over advance it and does run very good. but just got one for these to overcome it. built for a 4 stroke http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-527609049.htm

Skunk
31st October 2012, 16:20
What's the Guts Ivan....
got this thing going yet? how did the moulded tank work out for you?

Must be close even by my timeframes. Unless it's like the last Bucket build... Bucket update (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/22877-Bucket-update)

quallman1234
2nd November 2012, 08:32
Must be close even by my timeframes. Unless it's like the last Bucket build... Bucket update (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/22877-Bucket-update)

This post explains it all....

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/22877-Bucket-update?p=531079#post531079

On a side note : my project (ex ivan) is still in progress... and to my credit im still 2 - 3 years ahead of ivan also i have a working bucket, although i did cheque book race that one.