Rounded bolts.

[Chancebmx25]

i got one ONE!!! ONE!!! motherphukking rounded bolt that doesnt wanna move. was rounded even before i touched it. Its getting to me man. If the thread that it screws into wasnt apart of the frame id be grinding obliterating doing all hell to get the cunt off. but no its the other way around. i cant drill it out because if i drill and fuck up or something goes wrong and fucks the thread on the frame then i got a real problem. its for my rearset. its horrible. im thinking of angle grinding a straight groove into it and winding it out with a flathead. but theres got to be some tool out there. some tool in our broad day and age that can simply turn this motherphukkor to the left and ease her out of her position. Aluminum bonds itself together if left for ages. obviously its being left for ages. best to use to top quality loctite so its creates a compound that can be broken not actual metal to metal seizing itself together. hope someone out there can find me a solution. ive being researching for hours. on a positive note ive come to the conclusion on tyga rearsets and new race replica fairings in the suzuki rizla GP scheme. Cool huH! pics in 2 weeks or so when its finished.

[unstuck]

VICEGRIPS???:yes:

[bogan]

they are called easy outs, drill a hole then using their threaded self tapping 'bits' screw it in the outwards direction and just keep going till the fucker comes out!

Also I've had some good results by drilling through with the right sized bit until the head pops off, remove your rearset and get some vice grips onto what is left of the bolt. Tap whats left of the bolt with hammer a few times first to dislodge any bonds in the thread.

[FJRider]

Grind or FILE two flat parallel faces ... and use a spanner as usual ...

[dogsnbikes]

Grind or FILE two flat parallel faces ... and use a spanner as usual ...

Bingo +1:yes:

[The Stranger]

Aluminum bonds itself together if left for ages.

Bonds itself?
It's unlikely to be an ali fastener, though it may well be galled all the same.
Heat is a possibility if you suspect it is galled and provided the components are able to handle heat it is reasonable to apply some for a start.

Sometimes though galling leaves no option but to destroy and re-cut the threads or possibly destroy the female thread and use a nut and bolt instead.

As noted, vice grips are a good first choice if you can get to the bolt. If it's really stuck you may well need vice grip branded grips though. The cheaper ones just don't cut it when push comes to shove.

An easy out is another possible option (though I prefer them as a last resort as snap an easy out and somehow the easy part is all gone), but I would drill the hole in the bolt with a left hand drill bit as a start as sometimes this in itself will remove the bolt. Centre punch the bolt and drill carefully straight and true.

If the bike is mobile I have heat, vice grips, easyouts and left hand drill bits etc here if you need a hand.

[Drew]

Easy outs for the win I reckon.

The grinding thing wont work because the bolts on an RGV peg hanger are recessed quite a lot. Bust out the drill and go for gold. I prefer to drill the head off completely to get the hanger out of the way, it makes sure there is no pressure on the bolt too.

[Chancebmx25]

wow thank you guys so much. Youve all helped so much. Thank you. Big ups to the lot of yah.

[Chancebmx25]

wow thank you guys so much. Youve all helped so much. Thank you. Big ups to the lot of yah.

im gonna give easy out a crack/

[unstuck]

Ok if it is recessed then the vice grip idea is out.Would go the eazy out route too,obviously it is fairly well stuck in there because someone has already rounded it off. May be best to accept the kind offer of heat and lefty drill from the nice man.:yes:

[marty]

First up, is it a 6-point external hed bolt or an allen-key bolt?

I spend a good part of my working day removing countersunk titanium phillips head screws that are rounded out and bonded into like material anchor nuts. The easiest and quickest way is to drill the head off by starting with a smaller drill (say 1/8" or 3.0mm one) and drilling it beyond the shoulder of the the bolt-head. Then step up to to a drill the size of the shank (probably 1/4" or about 6.5mm). The head will pop off leaving you just the shank in the frame/parent body. You will then have a good idea where the centre of the bolt is.

Go an buy a QUALITY easy-out. I recommend a 1/8" or 3.1mm 'Snap-on' one - it won't break.

Drill into the centre of the bolt with the 1/8" drill - don't worry about the expense of a LH drill bit. I have some and although they are awesome, they aren't cheap.

Penetrant oil and heat, tap in the easy-out, wind it backwards. The good thing with a snap-on easy out is you can tap it while you're turning it.

[Chancebmx25]

Ok if it is recessed then the vice grip idea is out.Would go the eazy out route too,obviously it is fairly well stuck in there because someone has already rounded it off. May be best to accept the kind offer of heat and lefty drill from the nice man.:yes:

the bikes not mobile. so im gonna pick up some easy outs tomoz and just crack at it. should be sweet. doing my research on it now.

[unstuck]

the bikes not mobile. so im gonna pick up some easy outs tomoz and just crack at it. should be sweet. doing my research on it now.

Sorted then,good luck man.:woohoo::rockon:

[Chancebmx25]

First up, is it a 6-point external hed bolt or an allen-key bolt?

I spend a good part of my working day removing countersunk titanium phillips head screws that are rounded out and bonded into like material anchor nuts. The easiest and quickest way is to drill the head off by starting with a smaller drill (say 1/8" or 3.0mm one) and drilling it beyond the shoulder of the the bolt-head. Then step up to to a drill the size of the shank (probably 1/4" or about 6.5mm). The head will pop off leaving you just the shank in the frame/parent body. You will then have a good idea where the centre of the bolt is.

Go an buy a QUALITY easy-out. I recommend a 1/8" or 3.1mm 'Snap-on' one - it won't break.

Drill into the centre of the bolt with the 1/8" drill - don't worry about the expense of a LH drill bit. I have some and although they are awesome, they aren't cheap.

Penetrant oil and heat, tap in the easy-out, wind it backwards. The good thing with a snap-on easy out is you can tap it while you're turning it.

its got an allen head. im gonna try easy outs tommrow. but cheers for the advice.

[Chancebmx25]

Bonds itself?
It's unlikely to be an ali fastener, though it may well be galled all the same.
Heat is a possibility if you suspect it is galled and provided the components are able to handle heat it is reasonable to apply some for a start.

Sometimes though galling leaves no option but to destroy and re-cut the threads or possibly destroy the female thread and use a nut and bolt instead.

As noted, vice grips are a good first choice if you can get to the bolt. If it's really stuck you may well need vice grip branded grips though. The cheaper ones just don't cut it when push comes to shove.

An easy out is another possible option (though I prefer them as a last resort as snap an easy out and somehow the easy part is all gone), but I would drill the hole in the bolt with a left hand drill bit as a start as sometimes this in itself will remove the bolt. Centre punch the bolt and drill carefully straight and true.

If the bike is mobile I have heat, vice grips, easyouts and left hand drill bits etc here if you need a hand.

cheers man ill take this all into account thanks for the offer aswell. but i should have it sussed. bikes not mobile but im gonna try easy outs tommorow. cheers

[Chancebmx25]

once again thanks to all who kindly took there time to actually reply to this thread. much appreciated.

[Ocean1]

the bikes not mobile. so im gonna pick up some easy outs tomoz and just crack at it. should be sweet. doing my research on it now.

If the bolt head's been fucked trying to loosen it then an easy out will break. Guaranteed. That's when your problems really start.

Do the Drew thing. Use a pilot drill, say 4mm, and make fucking sure you get it exactly on centre. Then use a drill half a mm larger than the bolt, take it easy and stop as soon as it's through the head. Once the rearset's gone you'll have 5 -6mm of bolt shank to grip.

If that fails then you drill the bolt out, and if you're accurate enough all that's left is the thread itself, which pulls out like a spring.

[lukemillar]

its got an allen head. im gonna try easy outs tommrow. but cheers for the advice.

I would try hammering a 1/4 drive torx bit into the rounded hole. I have got a load of bolts out with this method. If that fails, then you can try the easy out, but this is quicker and easier

[The Stranger]

cheers man ill take this all into account thanks for the offer aswell. but i should have it sussed. bikes not mobile but im gonna try easy outs tommorow. cheers

So how'd it go?

[Chancebmx25]

So how'd it go?

easy outs couldnt seem to get hold of any. did some research. ended up using a chizel on an angle giving it a fairly evenish it.. took a few hits and boom it moved. so continued to hit it around being careful about not slipping and driving a chizel into my frame and up until when it got real loose then boom i turned it the rest of the way and out she came.

[imdying]

Ezyouts are the devils work if you don't know how to use them, avoid them until you've been given the skinny on how to use one (which basically entails drilling the bolt out as far as possible... they don't take out seized fasteners that are still solid).

[unstuck]

Ah well,at least ya got it out aye. Well done for your persistence.:yes:

[tigertim20]

VICEGRIPS???:yes:
if his rearsets are like some Ive seen, you wont be able to get the buggers in there, as they can often be recessed into a groove

they are called easy outs, drill a hole then using their threaded self tapping 'bits' screw it in the outwards direction and just keep going till the fucker comes out!

Also I've had some good results by drilling through with the right sized bit until the head pops off, remove your rearset and get some vice grips onto what is left of the bolt. Tap whats left of the bolt with hammer a few times first to dislodge any bonds in the thread.

+1, usually my go to tactic for getting fucked bolts out. everyone should have easy outs in their tool kit!

Grind or FILE two flat parallel faces ... and use a spanner as usual ...
helpfull!

easy outs couldnt seem to get hold of any. did some research. ended up using a chizel on an angle giving it a fairly evenish it.. took a few hits and boom it moved. so continued to hit it around being careful about not slipping and driving a chizel into my frame and up until when it got real loose then boom i turned it the rest of the way and out she came.

Nice, that was the other suggestion I was going to make. You may find that easy outs are a good investment, any halfway decent tool or engineering shop will have them (look further than ripco and supershit).

With older bikes, when you want to do your own maintenance, youll often come across fucked bolts etc that some cock has previously butchered, If as you say you want to do your own work on it, Go get some easy outs, sooner or later, you'll use 'em!

[Chancebmx25]

if his rearsets are like some Ive seen, you wont be able to get the buggers in there, as they can often be recessed into a groove


+1, usually my go to tactic for getting fucked bolts out. everyone should have easy outs in their tool kit!

helpfull!


Nice, that was the other suggestion I was going to make. You may find that easy outs are a good investment, any halfway decent tool or engineering shop will have them (look further than ripco and supershit).

With older bikes, when you want to do your own maintenance, youll often come across fucked bolts etc that some cock has previously butchered, If as you say you want to do your own work on it, Go get some easy outs, sooner or later, you'll use 'em!

yer hardowt. ive slowly being replacing a majority of the bolts when i find the butchered from the clean. so far so good. and yer a decent engineering shop like u said should have them.... i went to mitre10 and they sold me a screw extractor that claimed it was the shit and that it would remove anything rounded. tried it and it snapped. my drill just destroyed the fuck out of it. i was like... mmmmm okay i think im gonna return this. after a bit of an argument today with the lady behind the counter i finally got my money back. But yer... not really trusting them places anymore. they higher too many kids fresh from school... cant seem to get thea heads in the pratical feild. there basically just there to make the shop look good. p a t h e t i c

[tigertim20]

yer hardowt. ive slowly being replacing a majority of the bolts when i find the butchered from the clean. so far so good. and yer a decent engineering shop like u said should have them.... i went to mitre10 and they sold me a screw extractor that claimed it was the shit and that it would remove anything rounded. tried it and it snapped. my drill just destroyed the fuck out of it. i was like... mmmmm okay i think im gonna return this. after a bit of an argument today with the lady behind the counter i finally got my money back. But yer... not really trusting them places anymore. they higher too many kids fresh from school... cant seem to get thea heads in the pratical feild. there basically just there to make the shop look good. p a t h e t i c

with easy outs etc, you probably want to do it by hand rather than with a drill, Putting it in a drill would make it more likely to snap Id think.

Yeah good tools go to the guys that specialize in good tools!:yes:

[Chancebmx25]

with easy outs etc, you probably want to do it by hand rather than with a drill, Putting it in a drill would make it more likely to snap Id think.

Yeah good tools go to the guys that specialize in good tools!:yes:

yer agreed. all i gotta do now is play the waiting game for my rearsets and fairings. meanwhile im still on the hunt for that painter to match my tank. and im polishing my frame at the same time. taking ages but im getting there, one side near completion.

[pete376403]

A problem with conventional easy-outs (the tapered kind) that they can expand the bolt as they are being wound in, thus jamming it (the bolt) tighter.
I've few parallel shank extractors, they are tapped into the hole in the bolt and the flutes dig into the walls of the hole.
Extractors of either kind require a degree of care, they are dead hard steel so when you snap one off inside the bolt your troubles are raised to a whole 'nother level.

[tigertim20]

yer agreed. all i gotta do now is play the waiting game for my rearsets and fairings. meanwhile im still on the hunt for that painter to match my tank. and im polishing my frame at the same time. taking ages but im getting there, one side near completion.
Frame polishing looks good when done well, Drunkenmistake is thinking about doing that (But he is a lazy cunt, and every time he wants to do something to his bike, I end up fuckin doing it for him!). You getting tyga sets and fairings? DM just bought a fuckload of Tyga stuff, hes bought loads of shit from them

A problem with conventional easy-outs (the tapered kind) that they can expand the bolt as they are being wound in, thus jamming it (the bolt) tighter.
I've few parallel shank extractors, they are tapped into the hole in the bolt and the flutes dig into the walls of the hole.
Extractors of either kind require a degree of care, they are dead hard steel so when you snap one off inside the bolt your troubles are raised to a whole 'nother level.

OOOOH yeah, Ive been down that road more than once!!

[Chancebmx25]

Frame polishing looks good when done well, Drunkenmistake is thinking about doing that (But he is a lazy cunt, and every time he wants to do something to his bike, I end up fuckin doing it for him!). You getting tyga sets and fairings? DM just bought a fuckload of Tyga stuff, hes bought loads of shit from them


OOOOH yeah, Ive been down that road more than once!!

yer bro he goes on about it... fuck hes got too much mo-Ney lol. Im getting a set of fairings from yes you know it. fleabay!@ a particular user though... that everyone keeps on pointing out.. at Rgv.co.uk. ive being talking to him for a bit. i think hes asian but he can type some decent english man. i fully explained to him how i want this that blah blah. replys... oh yep sweet as... give me two days or some shit.. i was like.. aye??? you replied... especially saying the words sweet as and cheers. i was like....ermmm......' mean '..lol but when he got back to me with the designs i was like sh-IT. thats onto it. He listened. i wanted the pillion space filled in (race tail).. both front mirror holes and indicator holes filled (mounting my own). a slight incision on both sides. for where the kick starter sits instead of it hitting the fairing... and match on the other side so it looks normal. an extension on the bottom cowling to go under the stand and slip up more kinda like the tyga you could say. and yer.... he managed to come up with something nice. so i told em to paint em up in the rizla colours. and then yer thats pretty much all there is too it. lol we kinda being chatting about it for the last week. or so. but overall not bad. feedback is great aswell. some complain about fitment. but when its on a 250 not much to really put on compared to a 600 or bigger. and alot of the people whom do complain about fitment and having to minor adjust things own 600's or bigger. if you know what i mean. like my bikes fairings in total is only held on with 6 screws. some consist of shitloads.

[gatch]

Good work that man. Judicious use of a hammer.

Who would have thought.

[unstuck]

First time I have heard of anyone using a drill for easy outs.Tried to dill a couple out after they snapped,fuck they are hard.Found those parellel shank ones to be the best for me too.DO NOT buy tools from miter ten,what were you thinking, pay for decent quality tools and they will last.:yes:

[Drew]

Funny, check subscribed threads, and it comes up with this thread titled, "rounded bolts", and the last post was by "Unstuck".

[unstuck]

HMMMMMMMM.:blink:

[gatch]

First time I have heard of anyone using a drill for easy outs.Tried to dill a couple out after they snapped,fuck they are hard.Found those parellel shank ones to be the best for me too.DO NOT buy tools from miter ten,what were you thinking, pay for decent quality tools and they will last.:yes:

The only quick way to "drill" through hardened tool steel is with solid carbides. OR a diamond tipped bit. Both of which are expensive and best left to professionals. Like me ahaha.

[bogan]

First time I have heard of anyone using a drill for easy outs.Tried to dill a couple out after they snapped,fuck they are hard.Found those parellel shank ones to be the best for me too.DO NOT buy tools from miter ten,what were you thinking, pay for decent quality tools and they will last.:yes:

M10 have decent mid range stuff, their cheap stuff is crap, but their fuller pro is the same as any other fuller pro stuff, tis what I use and no problems with it yet.

[unstuck]

M10 have decent mid range stuff, their cheap stuff is crap, but their fuller pro is the same as any other fuller pro stuff, tis what I use and no problems with it yet.
Never had much luck myself with fuller pro, mind you most of my tools get used on diggers and dozers and shit like that,and some of that stuff gets pretty stuck.:yes:

[gatch]

Never had much luck myself with fuller pro, mind you most of my tools get used on diggers and dozers and shit like that,and some of that stuff gets pretty stuck.:yes:

STUCK !

We get a fair bit of Higgins heavy plant when they need repairs done. Have seen some pretty far out things..

[unstuck]

STUCK !

We get a fair bit of Higgins heavy plant when they need repairs done. Have seen some pretty far out things..

And do you reckon the fuller pro range would handle it?:innocent:

[imdying]

M10 have decent mid range stuff, their cheap stuff is crap, but their fuller pro is the same as any other fuller pro stuff, tis what I use and no problems with it yet.I've all sorts of brands, and for bike stuff, I've found the Fuller Pro sockets no better or worse than my others (Koken, Hero, Stahlwille, Teng).

I did try a Snap On spanner with some sort of grip teeth in the open end last week which was quite nice, but not even close enough to better to justify the price.

If it has a life time warranty and doesn't chew things out, then it's fine. If the manufacturer didn't even have the confidence to put their brand name on it, leave it at the store.