After market CDIs for FXR150

[kel]

Has anyone tried fitting one of these to the FXR's? Its a dc cdi, if I can figure out the pin configuration (or if someone can supply info) it should work OK?
241434
I need to get rid of the rev limiter at 12500, yeah I know thats potentially asking for trouble but figure an extra 1000rpm running down to the horse shoe at Mt Wellington is worth the risk.
Thoughts please, but not the dont do away with the rev limiter thoughts.

[grantman]

Hi Kel
I think Arron's one is programable

Not sure of the model he uses, But I know it just plugs in

He wanted to try it on my FXR at one point to see if it made a difference.

[DrunkenMistake]

I think youll find your torque and Hp Level out before you hit redline anyway .. have a look for a Dyno chart and youll see, gaining another grand wont really improve much

[kel]

Cant afford the flashy Ignitech programmable version. I guess if Arron stays in B grade we could just swap the igniton between bikes, sure he wouldnt mind.
The motor isnt standard and it would quite happily pull to 13500 except for the factory rev limiter jumping in at 12500.

[koba]

Cant afford the flashy Ignitech programmable version. I guess if Arron stays in B grade we could just swap the igniton between bikes, sure he wouldnt mind.
The motor isnt standard and it would quite happily pull to 13500 except for the factory rev limiter jumping in at 12500.

Design the mods to peak before 12500?

[richban]

Design the mods to peak before 12500?


Thats what I did with the first engine. Peak power at 11500-12 was the goal. Its almost bang on.

Saying that when I was playing with my ignitech on the dyno I reset it buy accident back to 15000 rpm Opps. Sounded cool but made no more power and was detonating the hole time. Unless you know the standard ignition settings it will take a while to dail it in. My new engine will want one. Old one is fine a 12500. Buy one, map the original ignition curve and then tell me. 15 at 2000rpm seamed good from memory then I think it was 28 before 8k. Something like that. Then play it buy ear. Crank it till it detonates then dial it back. Then see if it makes anymore power was the plan for me.

[Arronduke]

The ignitech is prograble and on the computer I can see what the advance is set to as standard for each RPM setting.

I can plug it in and tell you it is as standard if yo want.

Don't think I can stay in B grade... as much as I would like too.. 34sec is a thing of the past. The A grade feild is getting bigger all the time. Filling up with slow coaches.

Anyway you are welcome to use it on the dyno to find out whats best.

Hell might as well use it on your bike as it most likely makes FA differance to me...

[koba]

Don't think I can stay in B grade... as much as I would like too.. 34sec is a thing of the past. The A grade feild is getting bigger all the time. Filling up with slow coaches.


Its quite incredible how good stern competition pushes laptimes down so far, the current pace around Kaitoke would have been a dream not so long ago!

[richban]

The ignitech is prograble and on the computer I can see what the advance is set to as standard for each RPM setting.

I can plug it in and tell you it is as standard if yo want.

Thats not actually the case. The ignition comes with a good guess from the boys at igntech but if you ask them they will tell you that they don't know the standard Suzuki FXR setting. There is no more advance after 1500rpm with that setting they have on the plug and play unit. The only way is trial and error on the dyno. It might want 30 advance at 7500 or none at all you just don't know. I will get another one soon and give it a good bash. I will also be installing an oil temp gauge.

[Bert]

Thats not actually the case. The ignition comes with a good guess from the boys at igntech but if you ask them they will tell you that they don't know the standard Suzuki FXR setting. There is no more advance after 1500rpm with that setting they have on the plug and play unit. The only way is trial and error on the dyno. It might want 30 advance at 7500 or none at all you just don't know. I will get another one soon and give it a good bash. I will also be installing an oil temp gauge.

a while back (2 years) there wqas a guy from Thailand who was offering up programable cdis. K-tech i think (troll the for sales or drag section on KB). I've sure he had a plot of the orginal curve for a FXR compared to his modified curve. "cheetah" cdi or imax cdi???? it would give you somewhere to start.

[koba]

Thats not actually the case. The ignition comes with a good guess from the boys at igntech but if you ask them they will tell you that they don't know the standard Suzuki FXR setting. There is no more advance after 1500rpm with that setting they have on the plug and play unit. The only way is trial and error on the dyno. It might want 30 advance at 7500 or none at all you just don't know. I will get another one soon and give it a good bash. I will also be installing an oil temp gauge.

Unless it has an input for a vaccum sensor or TPI sensor wouldn't you just need a timing light and a +/- Scale added near the flywheel?

[richban]

Unless it has an input for a vaccum sensor or TPI sensor wouldn't you just need a timing light and a +/- Scale added near the flywheel?

I know a man with a machine that will do the job. Should be able to map it no problem. Just haven't got around to sorting it yet.

[koba]

I know a man with a machine that will do the job. Should be able to map it no problem. Just haven't got around to sorting it yet.

Big Daddy Bo-Dien and his Mo-Sheen.

[Arronduke]

If my ignitech is not set up then I guess its some thing that i ned to do... and I would guess the dyno is the best and only way.

[richban]

Big Daddy Bo-Dien and his Mo-Sheen.

Mr Adlam has a crazy 80's looking thing that he reckons will do it.

[richban]

If my ignitech is not set up then I guess its some thing that i ned to do... and I would guess the dyno is the best and only way.

When you got it was the rev limiter set at 15000k like mine? Straight out off the box it worked fine and there was no detonation. There may not be big gains to be had. Might just burn a hole in the piston. The cool stuff is the launch control and rev limiter adjustment. I will try do a before and after when I get this new engine thing happening. One day.

If you go to the dyno you will need some ear phones to listen for knock. If its going good and its not really heavenly moded I would just leave it. Might save you some cash.

Just my humble opinion but the ignition is the last on the list for me. When everything is as perfect as pos. Carb size, Intake length, Air box, Cylinder head flow, Compression, Valves, Cams, Crank, Exhuast header length, Silencer. Then try the ignition and see if you can squeeze more out it.

[Bert]

cheap knock sensor??? just the frequency range would require some modification to suit the 150cc size (but there is a pot on it).. they use something similar on Karts.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Knock-gauge-detonation-sensor-klopfsensor-NEW-/110701853547?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item19c6583b6b
or something like this:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353

[koba]

Mr Adlam has a crazy 80's looking thing that he reckons will do it.

Dig Daddy Addy' and his Ignition Mappin' Contraption.

[koba]

Just my humble opinion but the ignition is the last on the list for me. When everything is as perfect as pos. Carb size, Intake length, Air box, Cylinder head flow, Compression, Valves, Cams, Crank, Exhuast header length, Silencer. Then try the ignition and see if you can squeeze more out it.

I think your results speak loud enough to make what you have to say worth noting.

[Arronduke]

When you got it was the rev limiter set at 15000k like mine? Straight out off the box it worked fine and there was no detonation. There may not be big gains to be had. Might just burn a hole in the piston. The cool stuff is the launch control and rev limiter adjustment. I will try do a before and after when I get this new engine thing happening. One day.

If you go to the dyno you will need some ear phones to listen for knock. If its going good and its not really heavenly moded I would just leave it. Might save you some cash.

Just my humble opinion but the ignition is the last on the list for me. When everything is as perfect as pos. Carb size, Intake length, Air box, Cylinder head flow, Compression, Valves, Cams, Crank, Exhuast header length, Silencer. Then try the ignition and see if you can squeeze more out it.

I think your wise enough that i should do the same... cheers