View Full Version : KLR650 rear shock
Gareth123
11th July 2011, 12:07
Can anyone recommend an aftermarket one please?
Padmei
11th July 2011, 16:30
Ricor are doing one apparently that matches up with intimadatored front end.
http://www.klr650.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=148
pete376403
11th July 2011, 19:34
The standard shock is rebuildable - you won't end up with an Ohlins-equivalent but it should be better than it started.
If your standard shock is beyond redemption you've nothing to loose.
Shock head seal is available from http://www.bits4bikes.co.nz/parts/kawasaki/2592.aspx part number AB371010 $90
http://calgarydualsport.tripod.com/klr650shock/procedure.html
Woodman
11th July 2011, 19:58
Just like everything else for KLRs, there heaps of them available in the states. Ricor,Cogent Dynamics, Moab to name a few. Theres also different rate/strength springs available from Topgun. Apparently a KTM 640 shocky fits if you sleeve down the top mount I think.
Padmei
11th July 2011, 20:09
If you are after any other parts Gareth let me know - I still have a couple of boxes of bits & pieces left over.
Gareth123
11th July 2011, 22:31
Sorry I should have been clearer in my original post. The Preload adjuster for the rear shock has broken. Its stuck on the softest setting. A new one will sting me $800 for an OEM part. A whole new shock will set me back around $1500.
I figured that an aftermarket part would probably be cheaper and better than the original.
Pete, would that shock head seal sort out this problem for me?
Padmei
12th July 2011, 08:10
Sorry I should have been clearer in my original post. The Preload adjuster for the rear shock has broken. Its stuck on the softest setting. A new one will sting me $800 for an OEM part. A whole new shock will set me back around $1500.
I figured that an aftermarket part would probably be cheaper and better than the original.
Pete, would that shock head seal sort out this problem for me?
I can't believe a new shock would be $1500 unless its an ohlins or similar. If you also have a look on advrider flea market or for sale there are untold guys selling KLR parts - they're bloody popular
Gareth123
12th July 2011, 09:47
I can't believe a new shock would be $1500 unless its an ohlins or similar. If you also have a look on advrider flea market or for sale there are untold guys selling KLR parts - they're bloody popular
$1500 is pretty close to what Norjo's in Christchurch quoted me over the phone for one. I didn't quite hear what they said though as the thump from my jaw hitting the ground was pretty loud.:shit:
cromagnon
12th July 2011, 10:31
You could give dasmoto aka dirt action services a try, http://dasmoto.co.nz/. I have only bought tyres off them but they have a good reputation for things suspension related.
Eddieb
12th July 2011, 11:38
You could give dasmoto aka dirt action services a try, http://dasmoto.co.nz/. I have only bought tyres off them but they have a good reputation for things suspension related.
Yep, for $1500 you should be able to get an ohlins unit. Most stores should be able to get Hagon shocks but they are rudimentary. Probably similiar to the stock shock and should be more towards the $500 end of the scale.
Underground
12th July 2011, 14:04
I just nput an XR 200/250 shock in my Dommie, seems to work good, cost me $60 for 2 of them and I pulled them to bits and made one good one out of the two ,lengthened it a bit and used the Dommie spring.
What I'm getting at is that there must be a list somewhere on the web of suitable ex dirtbike shocks that fit the KLR as well.
Oh and if the 640 one is adaptable I've got an LC4 400 one which is essentially the same, was miles too long for either of my bikes unfortunately.
Woodman
12th July 2011, 18:29
Most of the mentioned in ny ealier post seem to go for aour $480 ish $USD.
Try klr650.com.
pete376403
12th July 2011, 20:08
Sorry I should have been clearer in my original post. The Preload adjuster for the rear shock has broken. Its stuck on the softest setting. A new one will sting me $800 for an OEM part. A whole new shock will set me back around $1500.
I figured that an aftermarket part would probably be cheaper and better than the original.
Pete, would that shock head seal sort out this problem for me?
No, the seal head is inside the shock body. If you look at the link I posted for the rebuild instruction, the preload adjuster is shown in the first picture. If that can be got off, it might be possble to dismantle and repair it. (at $800 for the preload adjuster it would be worth a try.)
EDIT - looks like it can be fixed http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1b4uBKCEqNo
Guy at work bought an Ohlins for his Speed triple for around $NZ1200 landed cost from the US, so if you're going to spend what kawasaki want for what is basically an oversprung screen door closer, you may as well go with the Ohlins and get the best.
Gareth123
13th July 2011, 03:57
Cheers for the video Pete. I'll have to give that a go next weekend.
warewolf
16th July 2011, 18:33
I can't believe a new shock would be $1500 unless its an ohlins or similar. Hell yes, OEM parts are fricken expensive, in this case fricken expensive junk. One of the reasons I put an ohlins on the Triumph was that the shock was non-serviceable (Dr Robert had a look) and poked at 40,000km. OEM replacement was something silly like A$2500, an Ohlins was a grand or so cheaper - and could be serviced every 20,000km for about $100.
My DR-Z250 shock although non-serviceable as factory, had a RaceTech end cap retro-fitted. That plus a re-valve & service cost $350, and it got a service annually for $100...and totally blew a stocker out of the water. For that sort of spend, it'd be well worth seeing if a local suspension guru could sort it.
Woodman
16th July 2011, 19:26
Yup, I wouldn't pay inxs of $100 for a stock KLR shock let alone $1500.
Gareth123
18th July 2011, 15:46
Update on my rear shock...
Someone call me a muppet!:facepalm:
I've just removed the rear shock from the bike. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with it!
A couple weeks ago I went to use my 12mm socket and found that I had stripped it out. Not relating the socket to my "broken" rear shock. Turns out I'd stripped the socket when I was adjusting the rear shocks preload.
So after simultaneously kicking myself for being a moron and thanking the powers that be that I don't need to pull the thing apart and/or replace it I have given it a good clean, liberally sprayed lubricant into the preload adjuster (made a huge difference) and will be putting it back together tomorrow once I've cleaned and greased every single bolt and nut.
Crim
18th July 2011, 16:44
you up for the 6th, Muppet or are you working?
pete376403
18th July 2011, 16:54
Good to hear it wasn't as bad as it could have been.
I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but when I have adjusted the preload I've lifted the weight off the back wheel (just pull the bike over on the side stand)
After reading (on KLR650.net - where, it must be said, they are a bunch of whiners)about all the preload adjuster problems with the '08s I thought it would be better to be safe than sorry.
Still regreasing all the rear linkage bearings is a always good thing while you have the back end apart. Also grease the big bolt that the suspension rocker pivots on, for some reason kawasaki put holes at about a 4 o'clock position in the frame, so water can get in, but it can't drain out. (would have been better if the holes were at 6 o'clock)
Padmei
18th July 2011, 17:30
Good to hear it wasn't as bad as it could have been.
I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but when I have adjusted the preload I've lifted the weight off the back wheel (just pull the bike over on the side stand)
After reading (on KLR650.net - where, it must be said, they are a bunch of whiners)about all the preload adjuster problems with the '08s I thought it would be better to be safe than sorry.
Still regreasing all the rear linkage bearings is a always good thing while you have the back end apart. Also grease the big bolt that the suspension rocker pivots on, for some reason kawasaki put holes at about a 4 o'clock position in the frame, so water can get in, but it can't drain out. (would have been better if the holes were at 6 o'clock)
Totally agree with all of the above.
pete376403
18th July 2011, 20:16
Sounds like Padmei misses his KLR and all it's little amusements...
Gareth123
18th July 2011, 23:37
you up for the 6th, Muppet or are you working?
I will do my best. I usually work Saturdays though. I'll try and get the day off or start early.
Good to hear it wasn't as bad as it could have been.
I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but when I have adjusted the preload I've lifted the weight off the back wheel (just pull the bike over on the side stand)
After reading (on KLR650.net - where, it must be said, they are a bunch of whiners)about all the preload adjuster problems with the '08s I thought it would be better to be safe than sorry.
Still regreasing all the rear linkage bearings is a always good thing while you have the back end apart. Also grease the big bolt that the suspension rocker pivots on, for some reason kawasaki put holes at about a 4 o'clock position in the frame, so water can get in, but it can't drain out. (would have been better if the holes were at 6 o'clock)
I'm off to Bunnings tomorrow to get some tools and stuff on staff discount. Yeah I plan on cleaning and Regreasing everything. Some of those bolts were a nightmare to get out.
pete376403
19th July 2011, 17:04
I'm off to Bunnings tomorrow to get some tools and stuff on staff discount. Yeah I plan on cleaning and Regreasing everything. Some of those bolts were a nightmare to get out.
Loosening the top engine mount bolt (at the back of the engine) seems to help.
Lots of info here: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/swingarm.html
If you are mad keen, install grease fittings:http://members.cox.net/watt-man/Zerk%20Installation.html
(I'm not mad keen, so I just pull the rear suspension apart occasionally)
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