Bike sparky help needed.

[nzspokes]

My bike wont produce spark. Ive replaced coil and CDI. But just found im only getting under a volt at the CDI and coil. Have checked all the connections.

What next?

Doing my head in......:facepalm:

Just want to ride.

[nzspokes]

Could the rectifier/reg not be giving enough voltage to the ignition circut?

[neels]

Corroded fuse holder?

You could try sticking a wire straight from the battery to the coil + and see if she goes? With the ignition on that should also power up the CDI, and tell you if it's just a wiring fault somewhere.

[nzspokes]

Corroded fuse holder?

You could try sticking a wire straight from the battery to the coil + and see if she goes? With the ignition on that should also power up the CDI, and tell you if it's just a wiring fault somewhere.

Not a bad idea. May try it soon. Real head scratcher for me. Normally I can fix stuff.

Fuse holder is fine. Checked most of it out. But cant find an earth of the loom. Only the battery one.

[nzspokes]

Another symptom. Not worked on it for 2 hours. Try to start it and it runs for a second then shuts down. Wont re-start.

[EB255GTX]

Have recommended this excellent thread to many people, in fact it's how I found this site in the first place :-)


Try step 3 - it will tell you if you have a charging system fault

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/132696-Basic-troubleshooting-steps?p=1129943048#post1129943048

The idea of sticking a wire from battery to coil will just fry your coil, the coil needs a rapidly switched current to work, it won't do anything with DC from the battery.

[EB255GTX]

Another symptom. Not worked on it for 2 hours. Try to start it and it runs for a second then shuts down. Wont re-start.

Won't restart as in it cranks over at a good speed but no bursting into life?

[nzspokes]

Won't restart as in it cranks over at a good speed but no bursting into life?

Correct. No spark.

[nzspokes]

Have recommended this excellent thread to many people, in fact it's how I found this site in the first place :-)


Try step 3 - it will tell you if you have a charging system fault

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/132696-Basic-troubleshooting-steps?p=1129943048#post1129943048

The idea of sticking a wire from battery to coil will just fry your coil, the coil needs a rapidly switched current to work, it won't do anything with DC from the battery.

Ive seen that before. And for it to work I need the bike to run. Bike no go.

[nzspokes]

Should my stator have oil in it?

[nzspokes]

Using the charging system test my stator is within range between the yellow wires. But on the test to earth I get no continuity. I presume as I have it out of the bike for the earth I just put the negative to the centre that mounts to the engine.

Guess then my stator is toast?

[ducatilover]

Your stator should not earth out. If it's earthing out, fix it. You should have under 1 ohm resistance between any two stator wires.
I'm assuming it's a three wire stator?

[ducatilover]

Should my stator have oil in it?

Yes, it's a hot bath type.

[neels]

Most bikes have an AC generator, which is then fed to a rectifier/regulator to turn it into DC, there shouldn't be continuity to earth (or it's mounting if it's out of the bike).

[bogan]

Under a volt at the coil and CDI seems very low. If it is still giving good voltage at the battery I think you have a wiring fault somewhere, try some voltage checks from the CDI + to batt +, and CDI - to batt -. The other option would be that the CDI has a fault and is pulling enough current through to drop the voltage, but a fuse should blow well before you drop that many volts across the loom.

[bogan]

Using the charging system test my stator is within range between the yellow wires. But on the test to earth I get no continuity. I presume as I have it out of the bike for the earth I just put the negative to the centre that mounts to the engine.

Guess then my stator is toast?

No continuity is good for the earth test. Being out of the bike it might not show an earth that could occur when it is installed though. However, it's very unlikely that is your problem, get it to run first, then check the charging system.

[nzspokes]

Right, Just spent ages re-testing things using the guide. And i think the ststor is in spec. But the reg/rect is showing no reading on the first 2 diode tests and 560v on the last. I think ive just found my problem.

I re-checked the stator housing and found an oil drain back to the motor. So its wet.

[nzspokes]

Your stator should not earth out. If it's earthing out, fix it. You should have under 1 ohm resistance between any two stator wires.
I'm assuming it's a three wire stator?

All 3 are 1.1 ohm.

[ducatilover]

All 3 are 1.1 ohm.

Minus the resistance of your test leads?

[neels]

How many wires (and what colours) does the rec/reg have going to it?

Do you mean 560Ω? 560V seems a little odd...

[nzspokes]

Minus the resistance of your test leads?

Good point, they are .3 ohm.

So with no reading on 2 of the diode tests on the reg/ret am I right in thinking thats at fault?

[nzspokes]

How many wires (and what colours) does the rec/reg have going to it?

Do you mean 560Ω? 560V seems a little odd...

3 yellow, red, green and black. Sorry that would be 560mv.

[ducatilover]

Good point, they are .3 ohm.

So with no reading on 2 of the diode tests on the reg/ret am I right in thinking thats at fault?

It could well be the problem, I'm not too up to play with reg/recs though, I think I have problems with mine too :facepalm:

[nzspokes]

It could well be the problem, I'm not too up to play with reg/recs though, I think I have problems with mine too :facepalm:

You wouldnt believe how good it feels to find something wrong. :woohoo:

[bogan]

You wouldnt believe how good it feels to find something wrong. :woohoo:

You should buy a kawasaki then, and get that feeling every time you ride it. Mwahahaha :dodge:

[ducatilover]

You should buy a kawasaki then, and get that feeling every time you ride it. Mwahahaha :dodge:

:facepalm: Shush you....bloody Honda reliability.... mumble mumble why did I sell my Honda....mumble grumble

[nzspokes]

Well fucked if I know. Ive spent hours on it tonight. New rec/reg. Good power coming out of it. Just no power getting to the CDI. Checked ignition switch even. Pulled it apart. Cleaned. Still no power/spark. Im so over this shit.

[pete376403]

have you tried running a wire direct from battery + to the cdi as was suggested earlier?
To have 12v at the battery and 1v at the CDI indicates a very high resistance somewhere between the two.

Is the engine rubber mounted? Is there an earth link between the engine and the frame?
Is the CDI/ ignition unit rubber mounted, and if so is there an earth link between it and the frame?
All earth points (battery and the loom) clean and tight?

[nzspokes]

have you tried running a wire direct from battery + to the cdi as was suggested earlier?
To have 12v at the battery and 1v at the CDI indicates a very high resistance somewhere between the two.

Is the engine rubber mounted? Is there an earth link between the engine and the frame?
Is the CDI/ ignition unit rubber mounted, and if so is there an earth link between it and the frame?
All earth points (battery and the loom) clean and tight?

There is an earth from the motor to the battery. But for the life of me I cannot find one from the loom to the frame. Which is odd but the battery only earths to the motor to.

Would like to run 12v to the cdi but I dont know which one to put it to. I dont have and cant get a wireing diagram. Or manual either. That would make life so much easier.

[bogan]

+1 to pete's suggestion. If it works as suspected, then use the voltmeter (as suggested earlier) to isolate which part of the loom is dropping the voltage, it should read almost zero across an two points on either the positive, or negative side. If it doesn't move the test points closer together until you narrow the fault down.

[nzspokes]

+1 to pete's suggestion. If it works as suspected, then use the voltmeter (as suggested earlier) to isolate which part of the loom is dropping the voltage, it should read almost zero across an two points on either the positive, or negative side. If it doesn't move the test points closer together until you narrow the fault down.

Problem is its got 6 wires going in. Dont know which to put it to. :facepalm:

[bogan]

What are the colors of the wires going into the CDI, probably the same across a few hondas of that era (and I've had a few :P).

[nzspokes]

Black/white, Black/yellow,blue,blue/yellow,white,green

[bogan]

Green = ground
B/W positive (switched through ignition), also goes to coil +ve
those two are the only ones common with mine, if your's is single coil it would explain why the rest are different, i'll assume so for subsequent guessing.
black yellow is probably to the coil negative
blue and blue yellow likely to be pulse generator wires

hmmm, not too sure what that white one will be, maybe white is positive, and black white goes only to the coil positive? or vice versa.

In any case, I think assume green is ground, so check what voltage is present between that and your battery earth when the key is on. Also check what voltage is between battery earth and the B/W, and white wires.

[nzspokes]

Green = ground
B/W positive (switched through ignition), also goes to coil +ve
those two are the only ones common with mine, if your's is single coil it would explain why the rest are different, i'll assume so for subsequent guessing.
black yellow is probably to the coil negative
blue and blue yellow likely to be pulse generator wires

hmmm, not too sure what that white one will be, maybe white is positive, and black white goes only to the coil positive? or vice versa.

In any case, I think assume green is ground, so check what voltage is present between that and your battery earth when the key is on. Also check what voltage is between battery earth and the B/W, and white wires.

Would any be the kill switch?

[bogan]

Would any be the kill switch?

Generally the kill switch just cuts the power to the cdi.

Another option to check which is which, is to remove the CDI, put the -ve lead of the multimeter on the earth, and do a voltage check for all wires with the key on, and resistance check for all with it off.

[nzspokes]

hey, just worked out it doesnt look like im getting out of the black/white

[bogan]

hey, just worked out it doesnt look like im getting out of the black/white

getting any voltage out of it you mean? check the white as well just in case. If nothing there either, open up the switch cluster with the kill switch on it and see what color those wires are, and if voltage is present.

[nzspokes]

getting any voltage out of it you mean? check the white as well just in case. If nothing there either, open up the switch cluster with the kill switch on it and see what color those wires are, and if voltage is present.

Green and black and white. No voltage if switch on or off.

[bogan]

Green and black and white. No voltage if switch on or off.

Ok, does your multimeter have a 200ohm or similar setting? Check that from battery negative to green wire at the cdi.

[pete376403]

Does this help - wiring diagram last page
http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/CB250-1992.pdf
or
Honda CB125 74 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=1HR7J1TE

Honda_CB125_CB160_Shop_Manual_1972 http://www.mediafire.com/?5ignzmzdh2v

Honda CB250,360,CL360,CJ250 T,360T Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=NU65ZOAL or
http://www.mediafire.com/?dufwgzn1wjw or
http://www.megaupload.com/pl/?d=29MXHLW4

Honda CB,CL,SL 250-350 http://www.mediafire.com/?5f3menxnmzm

Honda CB250rs http://www.4shared.com/file/247817086/d6a004bb/cb250rs.html


Honda CB400 N Parts List http://www.megaupload.com/?d=Q1VZTP16

Honda CB400 N Service Manual GER http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OSXAU4B8 or http://www.mediafire.com/?f2yyzzlbzdy

Honda CB500 (S) 93-01 Haynes Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=QWI03K35

[nzspokes]

Ok, does your multimeter have a 200ohm or similar setting? Check that from battery negative to green wire at the cdi.

Black wire is switched power. Pulled switch apart again. And green from cdi to battery - is .5ohm.

[ducatilover]

PM me your email and I'll send you a manual mate :yes:

[nzspokes]

Ok, What ive worked out is....

Black/white kill switch. Goes to ignition and kill switch.

Black/yellow goes to coil and tach so pulse line.

Blue Pulse generator

White Pulse generator

Green earth, goes to coil also.

Blue/ yellow is ??? Guess it has to be power in?

[nzspokes]

The blue yellow goes to the clutch side of the motor. Seems to be a switch in there. 2 wires go in, the blue/ yellow and green/white. Could that be the pulse generator? I thought it was in the stator as the blue and white come from the stator which is on the other side of the motor..

[nzspokes]

Once I identify the power input to the CDI could I just run a lead from the switched ignition to the CDI and just have it that way? Or does it drain the battery to much?

[bogan]

Ok, What ive worked out is....

Black/white kill switch. Goes to ignition and kill switch.

Black/yellow goes to coil and tach so pulse line.

Blue Pulse generator

White Pulse generator

Green earth, goes to coil also.

Blue/ yellow is ??? Guess it has to be power in?


The blue yellow goes to the clutch side of the motor. Seems to be a switch in there. 2 wires go in, the blue/ yellow and green/white. Could that be the pulse generator? I thought it was in the stator as the blue and white come from the stator which is on the other side of the motor..

If you black/white is coming from the ignition switch etc, you should be getting voltage at the CDI end, as that is how you turn it on! Figure out why the voltage isn't getting there. Make sure voltage is getting to, and through the ignition on that line.

That first diagram pete put up looks good. Seem the white/green (you keep refering to it as white only?) is an engine kill, hooked up to sidestand. Rest is damn hard to decipher due to resolution.

[nzspokes]

If you black/white is coming from the ignition switch etc, you should be getting voltage at the CDI end, as that is how you turn it on! Figure out why the voltage isn't getting there. Make sure voltage is getting to, and through the ignition on that line.

That first diagram pete put up looks good. Seem the white/green (you keep refering to it as white only?) is an engine kill, hooked up to sidestand. Rest is damn hard to decipher due to resolution.

Ive pulled the ignition switch apart and it does not get power when in the on position. Connectors in the switch dont send power to it. it goes to the black out of the ignition. First diagram has helped a bit. Now think that the blue yellow is the pulse and the blue and white are AC power feeds from the stator. Will be going home at lunch time to test these at crank speed to see what comes out.

[bogan]

Ive pulled the ignition switch apart and it does not get power when in the on position. Connectors in the switch dont send power to it. it goes to the black out of the ignition.

What goes to the black out of the ignition?

What color wires are in the ignition? do any show voltage?

[nzspokes]

red/ main power
Black/ switched out
brown/ lights
brown/white lights
black white/ switched to earth when in stop or parked
green

[nzspokes]

just had long talk with bike mechanic. Sounds like my stator needs a rewind. theres a secondry power supply in there that should be suppling AC votlage to the CDI. Going home at lunchtime to test.

Anybody know a good rewinder?

[neels]

So it sounds like your wiring is similar to this judging by the colours you have listed....

243178

If it is, the black/white from the ignition/kill switch to the cdi is to kill the engine when grounded. There should be volts and a trigger pulse going into the cdi, but no 12V supply to the coil or cdi from the battery.

maybe....

[bogan]

just had long talk with bike mechanic. Sounds like my stator needs a rewind. theres a secondry power supply in there that should be suppling AC votlage to the CDI. Going home at lunchtime to test.

Anybody know a good rewinder?

Turns out hondas from that era can be very different! Never knew CDIs were run from AC before, maybe it is recitified in the CDI to a different voltage more appropriate fro the coils? But that theory looks right from pete's first wiring diagram. Could be a bastard to test!

[nzspokes]

Turns out hondas from that era can be very different! Never knew CDIs were run from AC before, maybe it is recitified in the CDI to a different voltage more appropriate fro the coils? But that theory looks right from pete's first wiring diagram. Could be a bastard to test!

Yup its taken me a week to sort it out. Spoke to a guy that supposed to be the guru on old Hondas. He said straight off the coil stator was going to be the issue. They can run fine with no battery as long as you dont want lights etc. Yes looks like the CDI rectifiys to. Common problem. Ive found a second hand one so will get that tomorrow then get my old one rewound as a good one to go in. So tonight I will put it all back togeather and may start fitting the pack rack that I got for it.

Thanks for everybodys help!! hopefully its going to run.

[nzspokes]

Just to confirm, I should be measuring the AC voltage between the 2 leads?

[bogan]

Just to confirm, I should be measuring the AC voltage between the 2 leads?

You'll have to be more specific, which two leads?

[neels]

First question one has to ask is dear god why? Can only assume it is some byproduct of grafting a trail bike engine into a road frame.

Not knowing how it's wound it's a bit hard to say, but a multimeter on AC should see something, at best pulsed DC but unlikely to be DC.

[nzspokes]

You'll have to be more specific, which two leads?

Sorry, getting a little fuzzy. 4 hours sleep over the past few days working on this.

The white and blue leads from the stator that power the igniton.

[nzspokes]

First question one has to ask is dear god why? Can only assume it is some byproduct of grafting a trail bike engine into a road frame.

Not knowing how it's wound it's a bit hard to say, but a multimeter on AC should see something, at best pulsed DC but unlikely to be DC.

So it can run with dead battery, crash starting it should run. Or so the story goes.

My multimeter can measure ACV.

[bogan]

Sorry, getting a little fuzzy. 4 hours sleep over the past few days working on this.

The white and blue leads from the stator that power the igniton.

If they definitely come from the stator (not pulse generator) then yeh. The wiring diagram I'm looking at is a bit different.

[nzspokes]

If they definitely come from the stator (not pulse generator) then yeh. The wiring diagram I'm looking at is a bit different.

Thank god for that. I have measured it right.

Thanks for your help over the past few days. :yes:

Cant do any more now. So early night tonight.

[bogan]

Thank god for that. I have measured it right.

Thanks for your help over the past few days. :yes:

Cant do any more now. So early night tonight.

So you getting no voltage out of it then? another test is to measure the resistance across the same terminals, no voltage, and high resistance/open circuit, and its fucked.

[nzspokes]

So you getting no voltage out of it then? another test is to measure the resistance across the same terminals, no voltage, and high resistance/open circuit, and its fucked.

Im getting 13v at crank speed. Should be at least 30v. 86ohm resistence.

Pretty sure its toast. At least hope so.

I just want to ride my bike. Only got 3 days from being licenced etc to no bike.

[bogan]

Im getting 13v at crank speed. Should be at least 30v. 86ohm resistence.

Pretty sure its toast. At least hope so.

I just want to ride my bike. Only got 3 days from being licenced etc to no bike.

Interesting, 86ohm sounds very high, it might be that a connector or wire join is mostly buggered, and would be a relatively easy fix. Be worth looking into perhaps.

[nzspokes]

Interesting, 86ohm sounds very high, it might be that a connector or wire join is mostly buggered, and would be a relatively easy fix. Be worth looking into perhaps.

Im just going to replace it. Then maybe get my old one re-wound. Then again once I have my full I will probably just sell the bike.

[bogan]

Im just going to replace it. Then maybe get my old one re-wound. Then again once I have my full I will probably just sell the bike.

Yeh if you can find a cheap one it'd probably be the quickest fix. If it's just a connection you might not need to get it rewound either. Did you measure the voltage and resistance with it unplugged from the rest?

[nzspokes]

Yeh if you can find a cheap one it'd probably be the quickest fix. If it's just a connection you might not need to get it rewound either. Did you measure the voltage and resistance with it unplugged from the rest?

Yeah that from the wires at the first plug.

[ducatilover]

13V isn't bad at cranking speed, your engine's probably doing 150rpm. I'd expect 30V at 1500rpm+ :yes: Don't get me to rewind a stator....Bogan and I figured out I do it drunk and fuck it up.

[nzspokes]

13V isn't bad at cranking speed, your engine's probably doing 150rpm. I'd expect 30V at 1500rpm+ :yes: Don't get me to rewind a stator....Bogan and I figured out I do it drunk and fuck it up.

Thanks for the manual.

13v is way to low according to 2 mechanics. They say a min of 30v is needed to fire the coil. Should get up to 60v at revs.

[ducatilover]

Thanks for the manual.

13v is way to low according to 2 mechanics. They say a min of 30v is needed to fire the coil. Should get up to 60v at revs.

I'd love what they're smoking. Your coil will be either 12 or 6V. Unless this is a magic system....With 30v going into the coil, when the circuit is broken and it creates the tasty big spark, it'd take far too long for it to "charge" the coil again, hence why so many cars run a 6v coil, way back in the day they would misfire up the top (One problem with the BRM V16) when running 12v.
My bike runs 12v and it needs a bigger spark than yours due to higher revs/compression ratio.

[nzspokes]

I'd love what they're smoking. Your coil will be either 12 or 6V. Unless this is a magic system....With 30v going into the coil, when the circuit is broken and it creates the tasty big spark, it'd take far too long for it to "charge" the coil again, hence why so many cars run a 6v coil, way back in the day they would misfire up the top (One problem with the BRM V16) when running 12v.
My bike runs 12v and it needs a bigger spark than yours due to higher revs/compression ratio.

Its 30v AC, CDI rectifys and sends current to coil as 12v DC.

[ducatilover]

Its 30v AC, CDI rectifys and sends current to coil as 12v DC.

Ah I thought you were meaning the coil was meant to get 30v :facepalm:

Mine doesn't put out 30v even at idle I think (bogan can confirm this I hope?)

[gammaguy]

check your ignition keyswitch

[nzspokes]

So I fitted another stator. And...... it sparked. For about 15 secs. Then I put the tank back on to give it gas. And it stopped sparking and will not at all.


Fuck.

[bogan]

New stator give the same voltage and resistance?

[nzspokes]

New stator give the same voltage and resistance?

Yup, exactly.

[bogan]

what if you unplug the cdi, and take the same measurements where those wires should go into the CDI. Then repeat the voltage test with the CDI plugged back in.

[nzspokes]

I just tested it both ways. Both the same.

[pete376403]

You say you put the tank back on and it no longer worked?
Is there any chance that, in putting the tank on, it disturbs or moves some wiring?
If there is a wiring loom that passes underneath the tank, look really hard for damage.
In fitting the tank, did you have to move the handlebars? Any damage to the loom where it passes around the steering head?

Everything you've described so far indicates to me that there is a wiring fault, rather than a component fault.

[bogan]

hmmm, maybe its the pulse generator then?

[nzspokes]

You say you put the tank back on and it no longer worked?
Is there any chance that, in putting the tank on, it disturbs or moves some wiring?
If there is a wiring loom that passes underneath the tank, look really hard for damage.
In fitting the tank, did you have to move the handlebars? Any damage to the loom where it passes around the steering head?

Everything you've described so far indicates to me that there is a wiring fault, rather than a component fault.

Every wire has been tested and retested. None of the applicable wires go through the steering.

[nzspokes]

hmmm, maybe its the pulse generator then?

Ive tested it with there is power/pulses coming from it. Not sure how else how to test it.

[nzspokes]

Just tested the pulse sensor resistence and its exactly to spec at 110ohm.

[bogan]

and you have tried more than one reg/rect right? what about the coil (or is it coils?) what are the primary and secondary resistances on that?

[nzspokes]

and you have tried more than one reg/rect right? what about the coil (or is it coils?) what are the primary and secondary resistances on that?

Yup but it doesnt give power to the ignition circut. Ive got 4 coils to chose from. None work. But there is no voltage getting to the coil.

[bogan]

Yup but it doesnt give power to the ignition circut. Ive got 4 coils to chose from. None work. But there is no voltage getting to the coil.

and there is no loose or shitty wiring earthing any other inputs to the cdi?

[nzspokes]

and there is no loose or shitty wiring earthing any other inputs to the cdi?

All been checked and rechecked.

I think im done with the motorcycle dream. Ive wanted one my whole life. Now Ive got one it wont go. Guess its not to be. Will chuck it on TM over the weekend.

Cant afford to put anymore money into it.

[nzspokes]

Well Im going to keep at it. Going to pick up another CDI and maybe pulse generator tomorrow. Sooner or later it will run.

I hope.

[neels]

Don't rule out a wiring fault, particularly if it sparked before you put it back together. There will be at least one wire that's part of the ignition circuit that runs into the steering head, the one that goes to the kill switch and ignition switch to stop the bike, could be shorting to the frame somewhere and stopping it running. I've got the opposite problem on my trail bike, that wire is broken somewhere in the loom and I have to turn the handlebars to join the ends back up to stop the thing after the key is turned off.

It can be a pain in the arse chasing problems on a bike, I spent ages finding the cause of my XJ dropping to 3 cylinders at idle, turned out to be a really simple but hard to spot problem. It took a second look after I'd given up and left it for a week in disgust.

Doesn't hurt to give yourself a break, coming back with fresh eyes can make all the difference, the bike will still be there and it's that little bit closer to summer.

[nzspokes]

Don't rule out a wiring fault, particularly if it sparked before you put it back together. There will be at least one wire that's part of the ignition circuit that runs into the steering head, the one that goes to the kill switch and ignition switch to stop the bike, could be shorting to the frame somewhere and stopping it running. I've got the opposite problem on my trail bike, that wire is broken somewhere in the loom and I have to turn the handlebars to join the ends back up to stop the thing after the key is turned off.

It can be a pain in the arse chasing problems on a bike, I spent ages finding the cause of my XJ dropping to 3 cylinders at idle, turned out to be a really simple but hard to spot problem. It took a second look after I'd given up and left it for a week in disgust.

Doesn't hurt to give yourself a break, coming back with fresh eyes can make all the difference, the bike will still be there and it's that little bit closer to summer.

Well ive removed the kill and igntion from the circut tonight. No difference. Fitted another CDI. No difference.

But have just found I have voltage coming from the pulse gen. just with the key on. Odd. Only a minor but have found its coming from the earth to the pulse gen. Hmmmm. Will replace that earth. See what happens.

[bogan]

But have just found I have voltage coming from the pulse gen. just with the key on. Odd. Only a minor but have found its coming from the earth to the pulse gen. Hmmmm. Will replace that earth. See what happens.

That does sound a bit off, as the CDI shouldn't be able to provide it bias voltage when it's generator is spinning. Figure out where it's coming from too as it's likely that early will be shared with something else.

Also a working pulse generator should output about .5vAC apparently http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/42349-ignition-pulse-generator-ipg-benchtest-howto.html

[nzspokes]

That does sound a bit off, as the CDI shouldn't be able to provide it bias voltage when it's generator is spinning. Figure out where it's coming from too as it's likely that early will be shared with something else.

Also a working pulse generator should output about .5vAC apparently http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-technical-discussion/42349-ignition-pulse-generator-ipg-benchtest-howto.html

Have run a new earth for it. Now seems to be a cleaner reading at the cdi. Also found a earth from the lights that had rubbed through on a seperate circut.

Im going to need a lot of insulation tape once it goes. Half of the loom is exposed.

Stopping for a bit as my battery needs charging.

[ducatilover]

Keep it up mate, you'll nail the prick in the end! Just try not to get too worked up over it.
It's a bitch that you aren't down these ways, where we could come over and help

[nzspokes]

Just decided to put battery back on to re-test. Fucking terminal on battery cracked. Last owner overtightened it. Grrrrr

Found very different resistence between the old and other pulse gen. So come in for dinner while oil drains from the motor. The oil I changed from the day before it broke down.......

Have to pull the clutch cover off to get to it.

[ducatilover]

Have you got another battery you can try?

[bogan]

another option is to get some couch/cushions/tyres and shed rags to lie it down onto so the oil goes to the other side of the engine

[nzspokes]

Have you got another battery you can try?

Well its holding on. It wont take another removal which it will need to have a charge. So will need a new one.

[ducatilover]

Well its holding on. It wont take another removal which it will need to have a charge. So will need a new one.
Hmm...how many volts are you getting out of it while it was cranking and charged?
Best not to charge it in place, it can munt the reg/rec :facepalm: I learned that the hard way haha

another option is to get some couch/cushions/tyres and shed rags to lie it down onto so the oil goes to the other side of the engine
You have a strange fetish with tipping bikes don't you?

[FJRider]

You have a strange fetish with tipping bikes don't you?

honda riders ... :facepalm:

[nzspokes]

Keep it up mate, you'll nail the prick in the end! Just try not to get too worked up over it.
It's a bitch that you aren't down these ways, where we could come over and help

I wish I had someone to come help to be fair. It would have help to have another pair of eyes. I got 2 hours sleep last night. I sometimes lost trust In what I was thinking. Maybe had 10 hours sleep over the past week.

So I fitted the pulse generator tonight. Bit of a shit to do. One bolt was close to needing a helicoil. But got there.

And I now have spark!!!!!!:woohoo::woohoo::woohoo::woohoo:

Its not run properly yet as battery ran flat. I kept checking the spark as I didnt believe it. Ive also rebuilt the carbs as one had a stuffed float valve. So its not keen to run, guess it needs to draw some fuel through. Also feeling sorry for the neighbours so have knocked it on the head tonight.

But I have spark!!

So ive fitted,

4 x coils
3 x CDIs
2 x Stators
1 x pulse gen

Checked and cleaned every fitting, run new earths, cleaned the ignition switch and not slept much.

Thanks god the worst of thats over.

I hope. :blink:

[nzspokes]

Well it goes well. Took a bit to draw fuel through the carbs that I had rebuilt. Been for run down drive. Just need a new battery before I go for a longer ride as I dont trust the terminal on it. :woohoo::woohoo::woohoo:

But where is the cheapest to get a new battery?

[nzspokes]

Just did 50ks. All good. :yes:

[bogan]

Good work dude!

[ducatilover]

Bloody brilliant mate! Now ride the fuck out of it. :yes:

[pete376403]

You may have a future as an automotive (motorcycle) electrician.

Imagine how it would be if you were charging for this job, and some poor schmuck was paying $50 - 60 /hr.

Well done!:rockon:

[nzspokes]

You may have a future as an automotive (motorcycle) electrician.

Imagine how it would be if you were charging for this job, and some poor schmuck was paying $50 - 60 /hr.

Well done!:rockon:

Could be a new job for sure. Reckon it was 50/60 hours. Which could be looked at as being very bad. Which I could charge out for it at that rate. Im a bicycle mechanic by trade. Which earns next to nothing. :facepalm:

[MikeD400]

Im a bicycle mechanic by trade. Which earns next to nothing. :facepalm:

AMEN to that brother, FAIL pay! ::cutswrists::

[nzspokes]

AMEN to that brother, FAIL pay! ::cutswrists::

Hows that L plate feel......

[MikeD400]

Hows that L plate feel......

Wont catch me with looser plates my L plate wearing friend.

[nzspokes]

Wont catch me with looser plates my L plate wearing friend.

I wont see your L plate cause I will always be in front.