What makes leather better than textile in jackets?

[nzspokes]

I know leather is supposed to be the best but wonder why? Im going to be on the lookout for a new jacket soon but want to make the right choice. I saw some Dianese ones at Motomail. :love: But cant justify the cost.

Are they just better in a crash? Ive got a hand me down textile on from a mate that is a bit hot. Even with the liner out. Do leather ones breath better?

[James Deuce]

Yes, leather is better in a crash. No, leather doesn't breathe better.

You can get vented textile and leather for a cooling draught if required.

Leather can sometimes be repaired after an accident (Not if I'm wearing it. If I have an accident everything is fucked - me, the bike, my gear) textile gear tends to melt and develop holes when subjected to the friction of a human body pressing it into tarmac at 100 km/hr. Leather abrades, acting as a series of ablative layers. So long as it's stitched together well.

Be prepared for some sanctimonious twat to pop into your thread and spout pages of crap around "you get what you pay for". Ignore it. It's just a rant to justify their own ego-driven, mega-expensive purchases.

http://www.trainwreckstudios.net/abrasion/road.html

So many other factors come into injuries generated by crashing a bike that it's pointless to over think your gear. If you get trapped under a bike the extra mass helps to wear through leather rapidly and textile even quicker. Have a look at Aaron Slight's hands sometime. He had his hand trapped under a bar after crashing on the track and it was stuck under there a fair distance. Muntered it is. My wife broke her ankle at 30 km/hr after the bike we were on fell over. Those bikes are horribly unstable. I've broken ribs, neck, back, head, fingers, toes, ankle, wrist, ear drum, and teeth in bike accidents. All those injuries were generated under 75 km/hr. The only thing I haven't had to suffer is a wire brush in a huge graze to get the gravel out prior to skin grafts because I've always worn head to toe gear with some protective properties.

[Milts]

Leather keeps you warm, and cool.

Textile doesn't know how.


EDIT:

Be prepared for some sanctimonious twat to pop into your thread and spout pages of crap around "you get what you pay for". Ignore it. It's just a rant to justify their own ego-driven, mega-expensive purchases.

Is very true but some cheap trademe stuff is rubbish (personal experience). I've also heard arguments saying things like leather gear is tighter and so holds the armour in place better, absorbs impact itself better (I think it tends to be thicker?) and as mentioned, has superiour abrasion performance. I won't believe textile is superior until I see world superbike/moto GP riders wearing textile race gear.

[nzspokes]

Be prepared for some sanctimonious twat to pop into your thread and spout pages of crap around "you get what you pay for". Ignore it. It's just a rant to justify their own ego-driven, mega-expensive purchases.

Fair enough. I dont mind the one I have apart from being to hot. I may see If I can get vents added to it.

[Quasievil]

This subject has been done many times here.

Textiles generally dont breath better actually, the reason for this is most textiles themselves are not waterproof, it is the Ressia or Hipora lining on the inside that makes them waterproof, this is like a plastic layer, how can wearing a "plastic bag" breath better ? it cant, you can get vents etc to enable better ventilation however, but remember where air goes water goes and unless its got waterproof zips then you lost the advantage of waterproof gear.
Leather is better in a crash, it slides, textile generally makes you roll, you roll you get more banged up, thats why racers wear leather not textiles.
In my opinion the best combo to wear for safety is good quality leather, and a one piece over suit.
For commuting every day and a no hassle get up and go a textile is the better and easier option.
(define for yourself as to what is good quality) there is some good stuff out there and some crap, the marker against this is generally price however there are some bargins around for sure.

Generally your gear chioce will accomodate some comprimises, no one can afford a seperate bit of kit for every condition eventuality so get the best you can afford.:yes:

[James Deuce]

I may see If I can get vents added to it.
Not. Is it waterproof? If it is, it won't be after you add the vents. The waterproof liner is internal and integral. Vented waterproof jackets are designed around the venting systems, not the other way around.

[Quasievil]

Be prepared for some sanctimonious twat to pop into your thread and spout pages of crap around "you get what you pay for". Ignore it.


If I offered you a brand new chinese car for $5995 would you buy it then ?

Bro, its basic economic a rule in life no matter what you are buying unless its a second hand deal

[James Deuce]

Leather keeps you warm, and cool.

Textile doesn't know how.


EDIT:


Is very true but some cheap trademe stuff is rubbish (personal experience). I've also heard arguments saying things like leather gear is tighter and so holds the armour in place better, absorbs impact itself better (I think it tends to be thicker?) and as mentioned, has superiour abrasion performance. I won't believe textile is superior until I see world superbike/moto GP riders wearing textile race gear.
Blah, blah, blah. Let him find out for himself. Like the rest of us did. The only educational experience motorcyclists understand is experience.

[James Deuce]

If I offered you a brand new chinese car for $5995 would you buy it then ?

Bro, its basic economic a rule in life no matter what you are buying unless its a second hand deal

Well, duh. Still doesn't change the "fact" that that Chinese piece of crap that won't earn a single NCAP star may be the ONLY economic option available to some people.

A lot of people on this site say "Get the best you can afford", and then proceed to rip the victim a new one when they do just that. Hypocrites.

[FJRider]

Leather keeps you warm, and cool.

Textile doesn't know how.


EDIT:


Is very true but some cheap trademe stuff is rubbish (personal experience). I've also heard arguments saying things like leather gear is tighter and so holds the armour in place better, absorbs impact itself better (I think it tends to be thicker?) and as mentioned, has superiour abrasion performance. I won't believe textile is superior until I see world superbike/moto GP riders wearing textile race gear.

Show me the Leather outfit that requires NO ADDITIONAL wet weather protective clothing to keep you dry in wet weather ...

You will find that GP riders gear is replaced after an off ... Not all road riders can afford that ...

[James Deuce]

Show me the Leather outfit that requires NO ADDITIONAL wet weather protective clothing to keep you dry in wet weather ...

You will find that GP riders gear is replaced after an off ... Not all road riders can afford that ...

http://www.ultimatemotorcycling.com/alpinestars-365-gore-tex-leather-pants-jacket

But the ensemble costs about 1 million dollars.

[Milts]

Show me the Leather outfit that requires NO ADDITIONAL wet weather protective clothing to keep you dry in wet weather ...

You will find that GP riders gear is replaced after an off ... Not all road riders can afford that ...

Agreed. But if protection were to be your only criteria....

[Quasievil]

Well, duh.

Well Duh double Duh Duh

[nzspokes]

Wow, strong views.

Waterproof not so much an issue. Try not to ride in rain. If I get caught I get wet. More after breathing and protection.

[FJRider]

Agreed. But if protection were to be your only criteria....

?????????????????????

Soooooo ... YOUR protective gear .... ISN'T ... for protection ... ???

[bikaholic]

I have a textile jacket with leather where it counts.

[FJRider]

Wow, strong views.

Waterproof not so much an issue. Try not to ride in rain. If I get caught I get wet. More after breathing and protection.

I "try not to ride in the rain" ... EITHER ... and I do travel far and wide ... and if 600 km's from home and I am in rain ...

Lets just say I would prefer not to get wet ...

[ducatilover]

Leather is better, it's sexy.
I never found my DriRider gear to be very good in the rain or when it was uber hot....or when I slid down the road.
My leather gear is better in every way I can think of.

[nzspokes]

I "try not to ride in the rain" ... EITHER ... and I do travel far and wide ... and if 600 km's from home and I am in rain ...

Lets just say I would prefer not to get wet ...

Rubbish bag with 3 holes sorts that. :yes:

[Milts]

?????????????????????

Soooooo ... YOUR protective gear .... ISN'T ... for protection ... ???

No? You seemed to be implying that the disadvantages of leather are, for example, lack of waterproofing. I agree. But if you are looking for protection rather than waterproofing, leather wins out. Which is one of the reasons I wear Qmoto leather.

[ducatilover]

No? You seemed to be implying that the disadvantages of leather are, for example, lack of waterproofing. I agree. But if you are looking for protection rather than waterproofing, leather wins out. Which is one of the reasons I wear Qmoto leather.

My leather keeps the water out, I tested it when I got it, rode in the most fucked up weather I could :yes: My gloves are shiiiit though

[Owl]

Show me the Leather outfit that requires NO ADDITIONAL wet weather protective clothing to keep you dry in wet weather ...

My leather H2Protec jacket seems to do a fairly good job of keeping water out.:yes:

Of course, my leather trousers don't and my gore-tex boots fill up like gumboots, letting no water out.:facepalm:

[Urano]

Are they just better in a crash? Ive got a hand me down textile on from a mate that is a bit hot. Even with the liner out. Do leather ones breath better?

if you're after breathability then there are vented leather suits in 2 pieces.
get one and keep a rain suit under the saddle.

better in a crash?
no.
what's certified it's better than what is not. that's all.
or maybe not, but you'll never know.

an uncertified leather jacket may have a 2 mm thick panel, but the sews may be poorly thought and completely destroyed in half a second of tarmac sliding.

a certified textil jacked is, simply, certified, which means that it's tested for its effectiveness...

so if you like leather buy leather, if you like text buy that.
as for breathing the textile mesh is prolly the most airy thing you can put on, but it'll evaporate as you'd fall on the ground.
if you are going to use it in city commuting only with low speeds, that's ok, otherwise i strongly suggest to get something tested for abrasion.

[Maha]

I have the the best of both in one....http://www.motomail.co.nz/estore/style/rvjkignition.aspx
Got me some pants on Saturday....leather ones can now go away for a few months...http://www.motomail.co.nz/estore/style/rvpadakarsh.aspx

[nzspokes]

I have the the best of both in one....http://www.motomail.co.nz/estore/style/rvjkignition.aspx
Got me some pants on Saturday....leather ones can now go away for a few months...http://www.motomail.co.nz/estore/style/rvpadakarsh.aspx

Oh thats nice.

[Quasievil]

I have the the best of both in one....http://www.motomail.co.nz/estore/style/rvjkignition.aspx
Got me some pants on Saturday....leather ones can now go away for a few months...http://www.motomail.co.nz/estore/style/rvpadakarsh.aspx

The trouble with though is the leather still gets wet. the membrane under keeps you dry.
and sorry to tell you they get really cold once wet.

[Maha]

Oh thats nice.

Beautiful Jacket, didn't really want to pay $699 for a jacket but what price can you put on comfort/style and safety?....:innocent:
Pants?... the price was right $200 off normal price...:yes:

[nzspokes]

Funny part is thats more than I paid for my bike.

[Maha]

The trouble with though is the leather still gets wet. the membrane under keeps you dry.
and sorry to tell you they get really cold once wet.

This particular jacket does not...regular leather perhaps, but if the weather is really shit, the rain suit gets thrown over the top as it used to with my old leather jacket (now that got cold)...:rockon:

[Quasievil]

This particular jacket does not...regular leather perhaps, but if the weather is really shit, the rain suit gets thrown over the top as it used to with my old leather jacket (now that got cold)...:rockon:

Good as its a bastard being cold on a motorcycle.
I see a few "waterproof" leather jackets on TM I formed an opinion based on what im told about those.
Revit is one of my favorite brands out there so I should have expected they would have had it sorted.

(oh why favourite, one of the few with actual decent stitching method, same as ours:yes:)

[nzspokes]

Good as its a bastard being cold on a motorcycle.
I see a few "waterproof" leather jackets on TM I formed an opinion based on what im told about those.
Revit is one of my favorite brands out there so I should have expected they would have had it sorted.

(oh why favourite, one of the few with actual decent stitching method, same as ours:yes:)

So your saying leather gets cold when wet?

[Quasievil]

So your saying leather gets cold when wet?

Of course it does, dont get wet in leather its common knowledge , get a over suit
you can get a fair amount of protection from treating the leather with a water proofer however.

[nzspokes]

Of course it does, dont get wet in leather its common knowledge , get a over suit
.

Clearly its not. All of a sudden makes leather look pointless.

Why have a jacket you need another jacket for?

For road use I mean.

[Quasievil]

Clearly its not. All of a sudden makes leather look pointless.

Why have a jacket you need another jacket for?

For road use I mean.

depends on your riding doesnt it, try going to as track day with a textile kit.

Many riders have more than one piece of kit, they choose the gear on the day dependant on what they intend doing and or what the weather is like.

I dont wear textiles period, I wear leather only and if the weather is bad I wear an oversuit, thus being dryer than a textile (most leak) and safer if I bin it.

[FJRider]

My leather H2Protec jacket seems to do a fairly good job of keeping water out.:yes:

Of course, my leather trousers don't and my gore-tex boots fill up like gumboots, letting no water out.:facepalm:

What ever you wear ... it does get in ... eventually ...

I need new waterproof boots ... and waterproof gloves ...

[nzspokes]

depends on your riding doesnt it, try going to as track day with a textile kit.

Many riders have more than one piece of kit, they choose the gear on the day dependant on what they intend doing and or what the weather is like.

I dont wear textiles period, I wear leather only and if the weather is bad I wear an oversuit, thus being dryer than a textile (most leak) and safer if I bin it.

Guess thats ok if you have a lot of spare income.

[FJRider]

Guess thats ok if you have a lot of spare income.

Motorcycling on a budget means choice of gear severely restricted ... you get the best you can afford ... and hope it's enough ...

[Luckylegs]

Leather smells better, end of story, close the thread!





...your welcome

[dogsnbikes]

Clearly its not. All of a sudden makes leather look pointless.

Why have a jacket you need another jacket for?

For road use I mean.

I perfer my leathers I have one set for summer/day riding and another set for the rest of year and touring,and regardless what the day starts out like I always carry a rain suit(coz nothing is 100% waterproof,but keeps you drier for longer) you just never know when that 200k ride will turn into a 400k adventure

I have textile gear as well which I mainly use riding the XT around town and the back roads and its ideally suited for what I use it for..

Regardless of your choice, your riding gear is like your bike if you dont maintain it,it won't last..and its not what you wear its how you wear it, using the right layers underneath your riding gear to reduce moisture,over heating & windchill to the body,your riding gear is really designed to protect your body from sudden contact with the ground,most of the time it works....

If your looking at 2 piece options,make sure they zip together and the zip goes all the way round not just across the back and there is a flap between the zip and you as Zip burns and leave nasty scares

it comes down too what you are comfy with when trying on gear make sure you sit on the style of bike you ride... and alot too do with your budget at the time,buy what you can afford and upgrade when you can afford it.....but remember good gear can be a life saver.

[FJRider]

Regardless of your choice, your riding gear is like your bike if you dont maintain it,it won't last..and its not what you wear its how you wear it, using the right layers underneath your riding gear to reduce moisture,over heating & windchill to the body,your riding gear is really designed to protect your body from sudden contact with the ground,most of the time it works....

There lies the crux of the whole issue ...


it comes down too what you are comfy with when trying on gear make sure you sit on the style of bike you ride... and alot too do with your budget at the time,buy what you can afford and upgrade when you can afford it.....but remember good gear can be a life saver.

And after a bin ... you can still have a life ... that doesn't revolve around hospital out-patients, and doctor's surgery's ...

[HenryDorsetCase]

I prefer leather because chicks dig it.

also you get what you pay for pretty much. I'd quite like one of those Rukka or BMW or Aerostitch suits but $$$$$.

cheap textile is shit, plus it flaps like a windsock at open road speeds. good textile doesnt, and leather doesnt as much.

[Banditbandit]

Clearly its not. All of a sudden makes leather look pointless.

Why have a jacket you need another jacket for?

For road use I mean.

Becuse I've had more than one off in more than one leather jacket (one jacket went down the road four times and I out-grew it- middle-age spread) .. and I've walked away from every one ... I've never dropped a bike riding in textile (which I commute to work in) but I reckon if I did I'd be biffing out the jacket ..


depends on your riding doesnt it, try going to as track day with a textile kit.

Many riders have more than one piece of kit, they choose the gear on the day dependant on what they intend doing and or what the weather is like.

I dont wear textiles period, I wear leather only and if the weather is bad I wear an oversuit, thus being dryer than a textile (most leak) and safer if I bin it.

Yeah.. I have textiles that will fit over my leathers if the lining are unzipped ...

Yes - buy the best you can afford ... but if it's textiles and you bin it, expect to replace the textiles ..

[nzspokes]

Anybody heard of Stein brand leathers? Any good?

[NighthawkNZ]

My leather H2Protec jacket seems to do a fairly good job of keeping water out.:yes:

Of course, my leather trousers don't and my gore-tex boots fill up like gumboots, letting no water out.:facepalm:

best stuff I have come across... wen on the wet ermmm west coast

http://www.bonedrynz.com/

[Flip]

I have 3 main sets of clothing.

Draggin jeans and jacket with full armor when it is hot.

Leda-Dusty classic leather jacket and pants with soft armor when it is not.

Textile hell winter jacket and pants when I ride to the the Brass Monkey.

There is a 2 piece set of dry rider rain gear in the saddle bags on the bike, I only take them out when going to the brass as the hardley ever worn textile is still waterproof. Oh one piece suits are a pain for me to get in and out of and they cut me in half on my scooter.

Gloves, currently I use, Frank Thomas hell winter gloves ex UK, 2 pairs of Darbi winter weight gloves, 2 pairs of unlined racing gloves and 2 pairs of fingerless ones. It's normal for me to take a couple of spare pair on a tour.

Boots, I wear steel capped shit kickers all the time.

[Paul in NZ]

I have a cheap and only slightly nasty 1 piece suit for the occasional 'performance' ride.

A nice leather jacket that almost fits plus draggin jeans for pootling about on classic bikes

A once top of the line textile jacket and trou for touring ....

Each is good - each has its issues.

[Maha]

Clearly its not. All of a sudden makes leather look pointless.

Why have a jacket you need another jacket for?

For road use I mean.

A Leather jacket on its own is cold and takes a shit to dry if it gets wet.
A Textile jacket on the other hand is not cold and takes less time to dry if it gets wet.

Some textile gear is basically for summer only, thats a given.
Leather, you can wear all year round.

You need extra layers underneath leather during the winter months to say warm and dont be fooled, if the rain is heavy enough, it will find its way through.
But for an arse cold day without heavy rain, its fine if you have thermals etc.

I have just replaced my leather as you have seen with those earlier links.
The jacket is worth the money, has removable thermal and water proof liners.
Armour in the elbow/forearm and shoulder.
Becomes a summer jacket in 2 minutes.
Pants are the same..removable liner and armour in the hip/knee area.

I also own an oversuit (aka a root) which I will continue to use if needs must....its brilliant and cheap, get one.
And I have an oilskin wool lined full torso vest, also brilliant...I got that because my old leather jacket was cold.

[DrunkenMistake]

Tear and Abrasion Strength by the numbers
Pounds of force until fabric tears Abrasion cycles on pavement until fabric fails
CottonJeans 4.5 pounds to tear 50 cycles to failure
70 Denier Standard Nylon 4.5 pounds to tear 165 cycles to failure
500 Denier Polyester 8 pounds to tear 180 cycles to failure
200 Denier Standard Nylon 7.5 pounds to tear 275 cycles to failure
500 Denier Cordura 22 pounds to tear 710 cycles to failure
620 Denier Cordura 35 pounds to tear 1200 cycles to failure
NEW Competition Grade Leather 80-110 pounds to tear 1200-1700 cycles to failure
1000 Denier Cordura 110 pounds to tear 1780 cycles to failure
Air Mesh Kevlar 1260 pounds to tear 970 cycles to failure Stretch Kevlar Blend 420lbs pounds to tear 1800 cycles to failure

This is how quickly some materials take to hole:
Material Seconds
Denim 0.2 to 0.5
Some race gloves 0.6
Most leather gloves 1.0 to 1.8
Keprotec stretch material 0.9
Poor Kevlar 1.0
Two layers of waxed cotton 1.3
1.3mm thick cow hide 3.8
Two layers of 1.3mm thick cowhide 18
Three layers of 1.3mm thick cowhide 55
Two layers of Kevlar plain weave 5.6
Suede 18
Boot leather (generally 2.2mm thick) 20
Leather stretch panels 20.4


There is also this test from a while back:

Drag Test

"For the Drag Test, samples were stitched to a bag that held a 75-pound
sandbag inside a milk crate, then dragged behind a pickup truck..."

New, 100% Cotton Denim Jeans ----------------------- 3' 10"
Senior Balistic Nylon ----------------------------------- 3' 10"
Leather, Lightweight, Nude Finish, 2.25 oz/sq. ft. --- 4' 3"
Leather, Fashion Weight, 1.75 oz/sq ft. ------------- 4' 4"
Two-year-old 100% Cotton Denim Jeans ------------ 4' 5"
Cordura Nylon Type 440 ----------------------------- 18' 3"
Kevlar 29 Aramid Fiber, Style 713 ------------------ 22' 1"
Leather, Competition Weight, 3 oz/sq. ft. -------- 86' 0"


Taber Test

"For the Taber Test, the specimen was mounted on a rotating platform and
scuffed by two rubber-emery grinding wheels." The numbers represent the
number of revolutions until the fabric totally fails. A vacuum clears
debris.

Two-year-old 100% Cotton Denim Jeans 168
New 100% Cotton Denim Jeans 225
Kevlar 29 Aramid Fiber, Style 713 506
Cordura Nylon, Type 440 559
Leather, Lightweight, Nude Finish, 2.25 oz./sq. ft. 564
Leather, Fashion Weight, 1.75 oz./sq. ft. 750
Senior Ballistic Nylon 817
Leather, Competition Weight, 3 oz./sq. ft. 2600

More to consider...

"Finally, protection from road abrasion cannot be guaranteed by a
materials abrasion resistance alone. A jacket may have panels of
highly abrasion-resistant materials, yet if low-quality stitching joins
those panels and the seams come apart upon impact or during a slide, then
the abrasion resistance of the panels could count for nothing.
Furthermore, an ill-fitting garment may ride up in a slide, contorting
the body and exposing the skin. And the best jacket in the world, left
unzipped and/or unsnapped, won't give riders the protection they pay
for. When it comes to safety, the issues are more complex than just the
abrasion resistance of materials."

The textiles vs leathers debate is all about tradeoffs. Choosing which material to use to cover your hide with and spend your pennies on depends on how much you value individual tradeoffs and ultimately, your intended use and riding conditions. Sounds easy enough, but deciding between textiles vs leathers has had great rider minds in a muddle and increasingly so over the last couple of years as the quality and versatility of both materials has improved so much! Just type in “textiles vs leathers ” into google and you will find that 90% of the results are from forums with the answer ultimately resulting in the fact that it depends on your personal preferences. The problem is that this does not help those new to the biking world who have not had the time or experience to develop their own, well-guided preferences… and so the argument goes on.
But, it’s really quite simple if you use the BMI (Best Motorcycle Information) textiles vs leathers test. This test takes the four most differentiating attributes of the two materials into consideration – price, maintenance, comfort and protection. Each attribute is also assigned to either leathers or textiles, depending on which material has the greater advantage in terms of the attribute. After reading the brief summary on each, assign a score out of a hundred to each attribute, giving those attributes that are most important to you higher scores, so that in the end the total score of your four attributes adds to 100. Then add up the score that you gave to the leather attributes and textile attributes, and the material with the highest score is your answer – and best of all it will be unique to your personal preferences.
Price - Textiles
Motorcycle textiles are cheaper to buy than leathers. It is also much harder to judge the quality of leathers and so you take the risk of paying a lot of money for a suit that does not have quality stitching and construction. (Just beware however that it is widely accepted that your textile suit will probably only survive one crash before you have to fork out for a new pair.)
Maintenance - Textiles
This one is simple – motorcycle textiles can be thrown in a commercial washer, while leathers will need to be sent to the cleaners.
Comfort - Textiles
Motorcycle textiles have an all weather capability: vents for when it is warm, liners for when it is cold and water resistance for rain. It breathes more easily than leather, and water slides off it like a ducks back.
Leather is also much heavier than textile.
Protection - Leather
Tests are conducted all the time to compare the abrasion resistance of motorcycle riding gear materials and leather always comes out on top as the most durable material. Furthermore, leather does not melt from friction, it will cushion your fall more than motorcycle textiles would and it offers the best protection against a road rash. The fact that leather also lasts through multiple crashes whilst textiles will probably only last through one, says a lot about the difference in protection and impact between the two materials.
The textiles vs leathers debate basically comes down to protection vs everything else.

Found the information part off an american site, and couldnt be bothered converting the values.

[DrunkenMistake]

I had a Rev'it textile Jacket, I ride daily, Rain hail and now snow, I found it was cold, and let alot of wind in, fit well, and the water did run off it, but only for a few moments then it got wet as shit and then my tshirt underneath got wet,

I now have a Leather jacket thanks to QMoto, and I would never go back to textile, well let me rephrase, as the current moment I wouldn't go back to textile, I find the leather jacket to be warm no matter the condition, if I get drenched in a pour down, the jacket is bone dry within moments of been indoors, I do miss the neck part of my textile jacket though as I could tighten it to my throat so the air didnt go down the front of my jacket on my neck and chest.

As for other gear, I had textile pants from 1tonne, wore them twice, havnt worn them since, I found they didnt let my legs breath and I sweated like a cunt on heat, I also found they were super thick and highly uncomfy to ride with,
Iv been meaning to get some dragin jeans but at the moment I have been wearing my Kmart jeans, not that im an idiot, I do know what will happen if I come off, and I have, on a round about, tore my jeans and bruised my thigh, luckily I ride with full boots and where the jeans tore was where the boots sat.

My minimum for riding is, Helemt, Jacket, Gloves, and boots.

[98tls]

Textile jacket, leather pants here,years of wet leather jackets put me off them,$10 pair of Warehouse pullover waterproof trou have seen me ride dry and comfortable for years.

[rapid van cleef]

i started off with a matching rst textile set but changed to quality leather within a few months simply becuase the zips continued to break open on the rst trousers where they go over the boots.

i wear several layers of thermals and an edz undersuit during cold rides and i bought a fluro type road workers/builders bomber jacket in a mega big size from a trade suppliers(12 quid 8 years ago ). totally waterproof and warm and wear it over my leather jacket. i wore this over my leathers on a tour of scotland. with my thermal layers underneath, i was very comfy and warm even through rain, fog and the nippy air of the isle of skye! (what an amazing place that is to ride)

i did buy a 2 piece rain suit like the stuff you can get in the wharehouse and ive only wore the jacket once. dam uncomfortable, flapping around etc. but it kept me dry.

ive considered buying a textile jacket and almost hit the buy now button until i put my leather jacket on and the bomber jacket over the top cos i couldnt remember how it felt. easy on and off. so im going to save me cash.

i did just buy some hot grips though as my hands have been freezing on a couple of very early morning rides here in nz.

on the textile note, im not sure how many people slide for many seconds in a road crash. there seems to be plenty of things to run into ?

i had a mate that had an off in textiles( fieldsheer) he came off( too hot in a corner and low sided) hit the kerb and was lucky enough to slide on grass for around 20 metres until he hit a stone bus stop. the only bloody thing by the road for miles around. his gear was fine but his bike was fucked and he a was a little sore.......however, he did manage to ride home for the next 100 k at 30 kph.


oh and by the way, its amazing how much you can type whilst taking a shit!

[DrunkenMistake]

im not sure how many people slide for many seconds in a road crash. there seems to be plenty of things to run into ?


Be honest with yourself, If your gonna have a serious crash no gear is going to protect you from it, BUT it will keep your joints in their sockets and your limbs attached to your body.

If your on say the motorway and your a speed junky, straight road, you over take a car, you hit a small bump, instant tank slapper, you lose it, come off and hit the deck, 140km + .. you want to slide, you dont want anything to grab if you dont slide and something grabs your gonna roll, if you roll then you start breaking shit, 22 feet compared to 86 feet is a HUGE difference,
but if your doing a daily 50km/h commute then textile will see you right.

[Quasievil]

oh and by the way, its amazing how much you can type whilst taking a shit!

<a href="http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/Quasizxr/QUASI%20PICS/junk/?action=view&amp;current=pinhead.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/Quasizxr/QUASI%20PICS/junk/pinhead.gif" border="0" alt="Pinhead funny"></a>

[98tls]

<a href="http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/Quasizxr/QUASI%20PICS/junk/?action=view&amp;current=pinhead.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/Quasizxr/QUASI%20PICS/junk/pinhead.gif" border="0" alt="Pinhead funny"></a>

Quasi stop posting funny shite and give me an oldish fart the goods on leather jackets v Textile,read my post a couple back and share your opinion eh,interested.

[Quasievil]

Quasi stop posting funny shite and give me an oldish fart the goods on leather jackets v Textile,read my post a couple back and share your opinion eh,interested.


Oh sorry, yes wettness is a bad thing try some water proofing or even a over suit dude.

in saying that something like this thats wet can be a good thing :facepalm:

<a href="http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/Quasizxr/?action=view&amp;current=1268974014910.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/Quasizxr/1268974014910.gif" border="0" alt="boobs"></a>

[98tls]

Oh sorry, yes wettness is a bad thing try some water proofing or even a over suit dude.

in saying that something like this thats wet can be a good thing :facepalm:

<a href="http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/Quasizxr/?action=view&amp;current=1268974014910.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/Quasizxr/1268974014910.gif" border="0" alt="boobs"></a>

Indeed.Getting dizzy but happy.

[baptist]

I know leather is supposed to be the best but wonder why? Im going to be on the lookout for a new jacket soon but want to make the right choice. I saw some Dianese ones at Motomail. :love: But cant justify the cost.

Are they just better in a crash? Ive got a hand me down textile on from a mate that is a bit hot. Even with the liner out. Do leather ones breath better?

Leather is certainly much better... I mean can you imagine the Honda riding dude in Village People prancing around in Courdura?:shutup:


Of course, my leather trousers don't and my gore-tex boots fill up like gumboots, letting no water out.:facepalm::lol::bleh: the answer is cheap boots... lets the water back out:facepalm::innocent:

[p.dath]

I've also heard arguments saying things like leather gear is tighter and so holds the armour in place better, absorbs impact itself better (I think it tends to be thicker?) and as mentioned, has superiour abrasion performance.

Another argument I have seen is to do with roll resistance. Loose fitting garments are more likely to start your rolling and tumbling down tar seal (they bunch up and grab the surface). Tight fitting garments are more likely to let you slide.

Leather garments tend to be tighter fitting than textiles (not a rule, just an observation).

Avoiding the loss of your hide is good. Avoiding having your arms and legs flicked all over the place and snapped is also good.

[Dodgyiti]

I have not seen any textile gear that holds the armour in place like a fitted leather suit. There is not point having CE protection in the knees of your pants if they can move from side to side, they need to be locked in place to do any good in a crash otherwise they will slide to the side and provide little or no protection.
I believe any purchase of gear should include taking it to a person like Kerry at MSW and get it adjusted to fit correctly- unless there is some weird off the rack stuff that fits perfectly- stranger things have happened..

Some of my leather riding gear is from the 1980's- I did upgrade the pants a few years ago, they will last and last if you care for them and the only thing I buy from time to time is a new rainsuit- currently I have a one piece Revit that was about $100 and has kept me dry in cyclone conditions, with the proper fitting leather gear under that I am safe and dry.

[Quasievil]

I believe any purchase of gear should include taking it to a person like Kerry at MSW and get it adjusted to fit correctly- unless there is some weird off the rack stuff that fits perfectly- stranger things have happened


Really, thats remarkable
if youre a standard ish size its easy to fit correctly in a off the rack, its not a space suit

[DrunkenMistake]

Really, thats remarkable
if youre a standard ish size its easy to fit correctly in a off the rack, its not a space suit

This is true, you only need a set of a few measurements,

Unless your short and round :facepalm:

[Maha]

Some gear has numbers ie:L as a size and some has letters ie:54.
The bloke that recued me form making a purchase mistake on saturday really new his stuff when it came to bike gear.
I had tried on about 3-4 different sets of pants and was getting fuddled with what was in the changing room :blink:
Some fitted well some did not...always pays to try before you buy (my rule)

The pants thus far was not what I went in for (as he pointed out)
He was the 2nd salesman to enter the scene (1st chap fainted I think)
He asked me what I wanted.....I told him and he went and got what I wanted.
$299 down from $499 fitted mint and was exactly what I went in for.

[Banditbandit]

Tear and Abrasion Strength by the numbers
Pounds of force until fabric tears Abrasion cycles on pavement until fabric fails
CottonJeans 4.5 pounds to tear 50 cycles to failure
70 Denier Standard Nylon 4.5 pounds to tear 165 cycles to failure
500 Denier Polyester 8 pounds to tear 180 cycles to failure
200 Denier Standard Nylon 7.5 pounds to tear 275 cycles to failure
500 Denier Cordura 22 pounds to tear 710 cycles to failure
620 Denier Cordura 35 pounds to tear 1200 cycles to failure
NEW Competition Grade Leather 80-110 pounds to tear 1200-1700 cycles to failure
1000 Denier Cordura 110 pounds to tear 1780 cycles to failure
Air Mesh Kevlar 1260 pounds to tear 970 cycles to failure Stretch Kevlar Blend 420lbs pounds to tear 1800 cycles to failure

This is how quickly some materials take to hole:
Material Seconds
Denim 0.2 to 0.5
Some race gloves 0.6
Most leather gloves 1.0 to 1.8
Keprotec stretch material 0.9
Poor Kevlar 1.0
Two layers of waxed cotton 1.3
1.3mm thick cow hide 3.8
Two layers of 1.3mm thick cowhide 18
Three layers of 1.3mm thick cowhide 55
Two layers of Kevlar plain weave 5.6
Suede 18
Boot leather (generally 2.2mm thick) 20
Leather stretch panels 20.4


There is also this test from a while back:

Drag Test

"For the Drag Test, samples were stitched to a bag that held a 75-pound
sandbag inside a milk crate, then dragged behind a pickup truck..."

New, 100% Cotton Denim Jeans ----------------------- 3' 10"
Senior Balistic Nylon ----------------------------------- 3' 10"
Leather, Lightweight, Nude Finish, 2.25 oz/sq. ft. --- 4' 3"
Leather, Fashion Weight, 1.75 oz/sq ft. ------------- 4' 4"
Two-year-old 100% Cotton Denim Jeans ------------ 4' 5"
Cordura Nylon Type 440 ----------------------------- 18' 3"
Kevlar 29 Aramid Fiber, Style 713 ------------------ 22' 1"
Leather, Competition Weight, 3 oz/sq. ft. -------- 86' 0"


Taber Test

"For the Taber Test, the specimen was mounted on a rotating platform and
scuffed by two rubber-emery grinding wheels." The numbers represent the
number of revolutions until the fabric totally fails. A vacuum clears
debris.

Two-year-old 100% Cotton Denim Jeans 168
New 100% Cotton Denim Jeans 225
Kevlar 29 Aramid Fiber, Style 713 506
Cordura Nylon, Type 440 559
Leather, Lightweight, Nude Finish, 2.25 oz./sq. ft. 564
Leather, Fashion Weight, 1.75 oz./sq. ft. 750
Senior Ballistic Nylon 817
Leather, Competition Weight, 3 oz./sq. ft. 2600

More to consider...

"Finally, protection from road abrasion cannot be guaranteed by a
materials abrasion resistance alone. A jacket may have panels of
highly abrasion-resistant materials, yet if low-quality stitching joins
those panels and the seams come apart upon impact or during a slide, then
the abrasion resistance of the panels could count for nothing.
Furthermore, an ill-fitting garment may ride up in a slide, contorting
the body and exposing the skin. And the best jacket in the world, left
unzipped and/or unsnapped, won't give riders the protection they pay
for. When it comes to safety, the issues are more complex than just the
abrasion resistance of materials."

The textiles vs leathers debate is all about tradeoffs. Choosing which material to use to cover your hide with and spend your pennies on depends on how much you value individual tradeoffs and ultimately, your intended use and riding conditions. Sounds easy enough, but deciding between textiles vs leathers has had great rider minds in a muddle and increasingly so over the last couple of years as the quality and versatility of both materials has improved so much! Just type in “textiles vs leathers ” into google and you will find that 90% of the results are from forums with the answer ultimately resulting in the fact that it depends on your personal preferences. The problem is that this does not help those new to the biking world who have not had the time or experience to develop their own, well-guided preferences… and so the argument goes on.
But, it’s really quite simple if you use the BMI (Best Motorcycle Information) textiles vs leathers test. This test takes the four most differentiating attributes of the two materials into consideration – price, maintenance, comfort and protection. Each attribute is also assigned to either leathers or textiles, depending on which material has the greater advantage in terms of the attribute. After reading the brief summary on each, assign a score out of a hundred to each attribute, giving those attributes that are most important to you higher scores, so that in the end the total score of your four attributes adds to 100. Then add up the score that you gave to the leather attributes and textile attributes, and the material with the highest score is your answer – and best of all it will be unique to your personal preferences.
Price - Textiles
Motorcycle textiles are cheaper to buy than leathers. It is also much harder to judge the quality of leathers and so you take the risk of paying a lot of money for a suit that does not have quality stitching and construction. (Just beware however that it is widely accepted that your textile suit will probably only survive one crash before you have to fork out for a new pair.)
Maintenance - Textiles
This one is simple – motorcycle textiles can be thrown in a commercial washer, while leathers will need to be sent to the cleaners.
Comfort - Textiles
Motorcycle textiles have an all weather capability: vents for when it is warm, liners for when it is cold and water resistance for rain. It breathes more easily than leather, and water slides off it like a ducks back.
Leather is also much heavier than textile.
Protection - Leather
Tests are conducted all the time to compare the abrasion resistance of motorcycle riding gear materials and leather always comes out on top as the most durable material. Furthermore, leather does not melt from friction, it will cushion your fall more than motorcycle textiles would and it offers the best protection against a road rash. The fact that leather also lasts through multiple crashes whilst textiles will probably only last through one, says a lot about the difference in protection and impact between the two materials.
The textiles vs leathers debate basically comes down to protection vs everything else.

Found the information part off an american site, and couldnt be bothered converting the values.

Fuck ... er ... So .. to sum up .. which is better? Textiles or Leather?

[ducatilover]

Fuck ... er ... So .. to sum up .. which is better? Textiles or Leather?

Leather. I've already said it, because it's sexy.

[DrunkenMistake]

Fuck ... er ... So .. to sum up .. which is better? Textiles or Leather?


Leather. I've already said it, because it's sexy.

^^^ as above haha

[HenryDorsetCase]

just looking at that set of results, it seems fairly clear that dragging a cow, buffalo or kangaroo hide down the road is going to be much better than your own skin, and most textiles.

plus de bitchez looooove eet.

[Robert Taylor]

Yes, leather is better in a crash. No, leather doesn't breathe better.

You can get vented textile and leather for a cooling draught if required.

Leather can sometimes be repaired after an accident (Not if I'm wearing it. If I have an accident everything is fucked - me, the bike, my gear) textile gear tends to melt and develop holes when subjected to the friction of a human body pressing it into tarmac at 100 km/hr. Leather abrades, acting as a series of ablative layers. So long as it's stitched together well.

Be prepared for some sanctimonious twat to pop into your thread and spout pages of crap around "you get what you pay for". Ignore it. It's just a rant to justify their own ego-driven, mega-expensive purchases.

http://www.trainwreckstudios.net/abrasion/road.html

So many other factors come into injuries generated by crashing a bike that it's pointless to over think your gear. If you get trapped under a bike the extra mass helps to wear through leather rapidly and textile even quicker. Have a look at Aaron Slight's hands sometime. He had his hand trapped under a bar after crashing on the track and it was stuck under there a fair distance. Muntered it is. My wife broke her ankle at 30 km/hr after the bike we were on fell over. Those bikes are horribly unstable. I've broken ribs, neck, back, head, fingers, toes, ankle, wrist, ear drum, and teeth in bike accidents. All those injuries were generated under 75 km/hr. The only thing I haven't had to suffer is a wire brush in a huge graze to get the gravel out prior to skin grafts because I've always worn head to toe gear with some protective properties.

Ive ( sanctimoniously ? ) ordered an Alpinestars leather jacket because I know that the quality of the leather, the detailed construction and the stitching strength is WAY better than the cheap stuff on the market. I dont particularly harbour the idea of crashing but Id like to know that a better quality jacket may minimise my gravel rash and injuries.

Bell Helmets used to run an ad something like ''If you have a $10 head wear a $10 helmet'' I dont see any of the MotoGP and WSBK riders wearing any of the cheap brands of leather that are budget price. I think theres several very plausible reasons for that.

[Quasievil]

Ive ( sanctimoniously ? ) ordered an Alpinestars leather jacket because I know that the quality of the leather, the detailed construction and the stitching strength is WAY better than the cheap stuff on the market.

So errr hey RT what is the Jacket leather thickness ? and how many rows of stitching and what type is used in this Jacket that is WAY better than the cheap stuff on the market?

I bet one of mine would whip its arse !!

bet ya dont even know lol

And yes Im shit stirring but ya know me lol:corn::corn:

[Robert Taylor]

So errr hey RT what is the Jacket leather thickness ? and how many rows of stitching and what type is used in this Jacket that is WAY better than the cheap stuff on the market?

I bet one of mine would whip its arse !!

bet ya dont even know lol

And yes Im shit stirring but ya know me lol:corn::corn:

I wasnt referring to your brand but theres some seriously low standard stuff on the market, as we both know. I have all the specs for AS, but at work. When I had a serious road crash at high speed in the 80s I was at that time wearing Dainese. The stuff did its job, admirably. As did the Bell helmet that in those days was pretty much top of the tree.

[Quasievil]

I wasnt referring to your brand but theres some seriously low standard stuff on the market, as we both know. I have all the specs for AS, but at work. When I had a serious road crash at high speed in the 80s I was at that time wearing Dainese. The stuff did its job, admirably. As did the Bell helmet that in those days was pretty much top of the tree.

Yeah I know that and yes youre right on the money, I was being mischievous really, many people say things like this is WAY better and the like but often they really wouldnt have a clue

just being naughty, see you in a couple of weeks buddy

[nzspokes]

Well rode tonight in my handmedown textile jacket. Nice and warm.

My legs in jeans however are still shivering. :facepalm:

[Quasievil]

Well rode tonight in my handmedown textile jacket. Nice and warm.

My legs in jeans however are still shivering. :facepalm:

Try some polys underneath or some of those wind proof jobs they work a treat, I wear my KNOX jean armour as well keeps me warm as.

[nzspokes]

Ive got some pants coming I got on TM to suit my fat shortness. :facepalm:

Should be here tomorrow.

Would love new gear but life wont allow that right now.

I saw some Dianese gear in motomail. :gob: Would love some of that.

[James Deuce]

Ive ( sanctimoniously ? ) ordered an Alpinestars leather jacket because I know that the quality of the leather, the detailed construction and the stitching strength is WAY better than the cheap stuff on the market. I dont particularly harbour the idea of crashing but Id like to know that a better quality jacket may minimise my gravel rash and injuries.

Bell Helmets used to run an ad something like ''If you have a $10 head wear a $10 helmet'' I dont see any of the MotoGP and WSBK riders wearing any of the cheap brands of leather that are budget price. I think theres several very plausible reasons for that.
You cheeky bugger. ;)

You are allowed to spend your money as you wish and if you can afford it more power to you. I buy the best I can. It probably won't meet the expectations of the gear cognoscenti though.

My point is that people on KB are more than happy to heavily critique someone else's purchasing decision, expecting people to instantly spend more than the bike they just bought on gear. MotoGP riders have very different requirements from the gear they wear compared to a newly minted biker, and they arguably ride in a vastly safer environment than a road user does.

[James Deuce]

Also my experience of injuries related to motorcycling has made me very cynical of the claims made around the safety benefits of said gear by manufacturers. All I can say for the gear I've been wearing in road accidents is that they prevented me from suffering gravel rash. It didn't help much with internal injuries, fractures or permanent, crippling joint injuries.

[swbarnett]

For commuting every day and a no hassle get up and go a textile is the better and easier option.
I used to wear textile for daily commuting until I bought one of the QMoto Black Rock jackets. By itself it's OK in the rain but I needed a rain jacket on top. That was until I discovered "BoneDry" (http://www.bonedrynz.com). A few coats of this and the leather can cope with a pretty heavy downpour.

[Robert Taylor]

Also my experience of injuries related to motorcycling has made me very cynical of the claims made around the safety benefits of said gear by manufacturers. All I can say for the gear I've been wearing in road accidents is that they prevented me from suffering gravel rash. It didn't help much with internal injuries, fractures or permanent, crippling joint injuries.

That then raises the argument about adding spine protectors, chest protectors and strategically placed armour to protect shoulders, elbows and knees etc. Certainly massive improvements in these areas have happened over the last few years and you generally only see it in the higher priced gear.
Yes it is all a major cost but if more traumatic injuries occur because the safety gear worn was either totally inadequate or ''substandard'' ( and then who defines that? ) then its a cost to ACC and other taxpayer funded agencies. We all moan about ACC funding and levies ( some of it justified ) but as a group of society we need to be more responsible. That starts right with the kids I see riding to school on their scooters in shorts and sandles. That is just not on and WE are all paying for the end result of a spill.

[scumdog]

LEATHER!:niceone:

Cos nobody makes textile jackets with tassles...:shutup:

[James Deuce]

That then raises the argument about adding spine protectors, chest protectors and strategically placed armour to protect shoulders, elbows and knees etc. Certainly massive improvements in these areas have happened over the last few years and you generally only see it in the higher priced gear.
Yes it is all a major cost but if more traumatic injuries occur because the safety gear worn was either totally inadequate or ''substandard'' ( and then who defines that? ) then its a cost to ACC and other taxpayer funded agencies. We all moan about ACC funding and levies ( some of it justified ) but as a group of society we need to be more responsible. That starts right with the kids I see riding to school on their scooters in shorts and sandles. That is just not on and WE are all paying for the end result of a spill.

Had all those in my last set of Quasi leathers including a separate spine protector. I rather think you're preaching to the converted, especially around the personal responsibility area. I also had decent boots with decent ankle and shin protection but still ended up with a rooted right ankle. My HJC HQ-1 (Carbon Fibre - their top of line helmet when I bought it - bought becuase it was the best fit of several helmets I tried on including more "famous" brands) was split almost in half. You can't quantify what injuries decent gear saves you from only the injuries you end up with, hence my cynicism especially given that my last accident was investigated by SCU and I departed from the bike at between 60-75km/hr and there was no indication that I'd been doing anything silly.

I still think it's massively unreasonable to expect someone to spend between $3 and $4.5k on gear, which is what everyone seems to be saying. You can "protect" yourself (not really - you can protect your skin, that's about it) for a lot less than that. At the risk of opening a can of worms, you can do a lot better on the cost front if you import it yourself, but I try to support local distributors and retailers, so I pay the extra.

[p.dath]

Bell Helmets used to run an ad something like ''If you have a $10 head wear a $10 helmet'' I dont see any of the MotoGP and WSBK riders wearing any of the cheap brands of leather that are budget price. I think theres several very plausible reasons for that.

To be fair, I think you need to also consider the use of the helmet.

A MotoGP rider also has to consider the risk of a high speed accident (by high speed, I mean considerably faster than NZ's open road speed). Your obviously in a similar situation for your needs.

e,g. Some people only ride around in 50km/h streets, and may not feel they need a $1000 carbon fibre helmet - and may be worse off by using such a helmet (because it wont flex and absorb as much energy in a low speed accident as a comparable plastic helmet).

[Urano]

I dont see any of the MotoGP and WSBK riders wearing any of the cheap brands of leather that are budget price. I think theres several very plausible reasons for that.

the first of those being: "the brands pay".

[Paul in NZ]

If Moto GP riders were buying their own gear and bike I suspect you might see a slightly different standard...

My feeling is that all road accidents are a bit different as the environment is uncontrolled so the gear requirements also differ. At best you are always in a compromise set of kit. Racing is very different.

Also to be considered is the gears duty in preventing an accident. If we are headed off around the south island we tend to wear touring textile kit. Its much more adjustable temperature wise and rain resistent meaning we are more comfortable and hopefully safer.

Our feeling is that the biggest danger to our lives is hitting solid things so armour is a must have - road rash hurts like a bitch but skin grows back.

Of course the best piece of riding kit you can have is the ability to sit on your ego and the second best is that squisshy grey thing inside your head...

[Robert Taylor]

the first of those being: "the brands pay".

Are you 1000% sure about that????

With suspension in MotoGP and WSBK Ohlins dont sponsor anyone. They all have to buy the product and service contracts and I can tell you its not peanuts we are talking about. Its a business that has to pay its way.

[Robert Taylor]

If Moto GP riders were buying their own gear and bike I suspect you might see a slightly different standard...

My feeling is that all road accidents are a bit different as the environment is uncontrolled so the gear requirements also differ. At best you are always in a compromise set of kit. Racing is very different.

Also to be considered is the gears duty in preventing an accident. If we are headed off around the south island we tend to wear touring textile kit. Its much more adjustable temperature wise and rain resistent meaning we are more comfortable and hopefully safer.

Our feeling is that the biggest danger to our lives is hitting solid things so armour is a must have - road rash hurts like a bitch but skin grows back.

Of course the best piece of riding kit you can have is the ability to sit on your ego and the second best is that squisshy grey thing inside your head...

I had a road accident at 140k and stopped abruptly, injuries were minor. A colleague had one at 50k and again stopped abruptly. He suffered major breakages and spent months in hospital and recuperation. So there are indeed many variables.
I think its a no brainer that your protective gear ideally needs to be of as high a standard as possible to cover all bases

[Big Dave]

The best solution I have found so far for winter is wear a textile overcoat over the top of a leather Jacket. Only ever needed a tee under it all.

In milder weather - I choose the one most suitable for type of ride and prevailing conditions.

[Big Dave]

Rev-it sponsor Tony Elias and they are mid price level.

[BurningPlastic]

I've always worn leather on road and more often, textile offroad (as it's easier to wash the mud off).

I prefer the extra cushioning leather provides for hitting the road surface and it also doesn't flap around. If it's raining, I just put on my normal windbreaker/rainjacket over the leather and it works perfectly. Leg-wise I actually use waterproofed snow pants as they're easy to get on and off and are comfortable to wear over other trousers for extended periods.