Chain and sprockets

[nzspokes]

My chain got changed just before I got the bike. But the sprockets werent. Ive done 1000ks on it. Is there a way to check the chain length? And if its worn due to the rooted sprockets?

And if I get a new chain, I presume they are not cut to length. Are chain tools expensive?

Gunna gear it up a bit. Faster.....:scooter:

[GrayWolf]

My chain got changed just before I got the bike. But the sprockets werent. Ive done 1000ks on it. Is there a way to check the chain length? And if its worn due to the rooted sprockets?

And if I get a new chain, I presume they are not cut to length. Are chain tools expensive?

Gunna gear it up a bit. Faster.....:scooter:

Check the sprocket teeth for wear, look to see it the front sprocket is becoming sharp on the tips, and the gap between the 'teeth' is becomong 'dished' in shape rather that an almost straight sided U shape. Also check the rear sprocket for similar mishaping of the sprocket teeth.
The correct chain for your bike should be already 'to length'. If you can feel a sort of 'thump'? at certain points as the chain turns? it's fucked! That indicates a tight spot. It is possibly that worn out sprockets will destroy a new chain quite quckly. 1000km's? As long as you keep the chain well lubed, you will likely get away with it.

[FJRider]

Gearing it up ... smaller sprocket on the rear or larger front sprocket ... sounds good.

BUT ...

You need more horsepower (more revs) to get the extra (top end) speed to make it work.

You will find the actual revs at previous gear change speeds will drop roughly 500 RPM 9maybe more) .... So more revs at the same speed (as before) are needed to prevent bogging down ... in the top gear especially ...

For small bikes it is NOT reccommended ... uphill or into a head wind, and you are riding a dog. A VERY SLOW DOG.

[nzspokes]

Check the sprocket teeth for wear, look to see it the front sprocket is becoming sharp on the tips, and the gap between the 'teeth' is becomong 'dished' in shape rather that an almost straight sided U shape. Also check the rear sprocket for similar mishaping of the sprocket teeth.
The correct chain for your bike should be already 'to length'. If you can feel a sort of 'thump'? at certain points as the chain turns? it's fucked! That indicates a tight spot. It is possibly that worn out sprockets will destroy a new chain quite quckly. 1000km's? As long as you keep the chain well lubed, you will likely get away with it.

Rear sprocket is very pointed. front not to bad but they are only $25. Chain does have tight spot so will replace it. Oh well.

[nzspokes]

Gearing it up ... smaller sprocket on the rear or larger front sprocket ... sounds good.

BUT ...

You need more horsepower (more revs) to get the extra (top end) speed to make it work.

You will find the actual revs at previous gear change speeds will drop roughly 500 RPM 9maybe more) .... So more revs at the same speed (as before) are needed to prevent bogging down ... in the top gear especially ...

For small bikes it is NOT reccommended ... uphill or into a head wind, and you are riding a dog. A VERY SLOW DOG.

My bike has had the gearing lowered over stock. Its 14/38, stock is 14/35. Im looking at 14/36. Also the rear tyre has been dropped from 90 profile to 80 profile. So its still going to be lower than stock but a bit closer.

[FJRider]

My bike has had the gearing lowered over stock. Its 14/38, stock is 14/35. Im looking at 14/36. Also the rear tyre has been dropped from 90 profile to 80 profile. So its still going to be lower than stock but a bit closer.

You will notice it more gearing up ... rather than gearing down.

Depends on where the (your) most riding is done. On the motorway or around town ... which option suits you best.

[nzspokes]

You will notice it more gearing up ... rather than gearing down.

Depends on where the (your) most riding is done. On the motorway or around town ... which option suits you best.

Well I work 3 ks from home so commute not so much an issue. And first is real low. At the moment im sitting on 7000 at 100k in 6th. Ive worked out that will drop to 6650ish.

And biggest reason, can only get 36 or 41 these days.....

[FJRider]

Well I work 3 ks from home so commute not so much an issue. And first is real low. At the moment im sitting on 7000 at 100k in 6th. Ive worked out that will drop to 6650ish.

And biggest reason, can only get 36 or 41 these days.....

Three km's from home ... walk ya lazy bugger ... :lol:

Tyre profiles make a big difference (talk to a tyre supplier) and take the OLD rear sprocket into an engineering shop ... he should be able to make a new one (or three for later) for you.

Ask at more than one place though ...

At 100 km's in top on mine ... a tad over 4000 rpm. ... Start thinking BIGGER ... Spend money on the next bike and "make do" with the one you have now ...
A Scott chain oiler will lengthen your chain life ...2 or 3 times ...

[dogsnbikes]

Well I work 3 ks from home so commute not so much an issue. And first is real low. At the moment im sitting on 7000 at 100k in 6th. Ive worked out that will drop to 6650ish.

And biggest reason, can only get 36 or 41 these days.....

I had a CB250rs model poir too yours by a couple years....the best ratio I found was 1-3 or 14/42 15/45 and use the bike alot commuting between Wanganui and Wgtn and easly sit on 120kph......

What state are your wheel bearings make sure they are working as they shoud I have seen some cases in older bikes where the bearing is ceased and the wheel hub is sping on the bearings outer casing

[nzspokes]

I had a CB250rs model poir too yours by a couple years....the best ratio I found was 1-3 or 14/42 15/45 and use the bike alot commuting between Wanganui and Wgtn and easly sit on 120kph......

What state are your wheel bearings make sure they are working as they shoud I have seen some cases in older bikes where the bearing is ceased and the wheel hub is sping on the bearings outer casing

CB250 was a five speed and I think a different final drive ratio. Mines 6 spd.

Have re-greased the bearings, all good.

[nzspokes]

At 100 km's in top on mine ... a tad over 4000 rpm. ... Start thinking BIGGER ... Spend money on the next bike and "make do" with the one you have now ...
A Scott chain oiler will lengthen your chain life ...2 or 3 times ...

Well I can get a chain and both sprockets for $100. Scott oiller sounds good but messy.

I have to keep this one for some time. Money is a big issue. Ex-wife and failed business see to that.

[FJRider]

Well I can get a chain and both sprockets for $100. Scott oiller sounds good but messy.

I have to keep this one for some time. Money is a big issue. Ex-wife and failed business see to that.

Scott oilers are messy if you have the settings wrong.

And ex wives can get messy too ...

[Jantar]

....

And ex wives can get messy too ...

So can current wives if you're lucky. :love:

[dogsnbikes]

Well I can get a chain and both sprockets for $100. Scott oiller sounds good but messy.

I have to keep this one for some time. Money is a big issue. Ex-wife and failed business see to that.

I wouldn't worry about a scotoiler for your bike untill your ready too upgrade

you still got a centre stand? if so use it for cleaning and lubing your chain....do it after a decent ride clean and lube while the chain is still warm,I fine kero best for cleaning as it doesn't damage the O,X & Z rings depeneding on what chain you use, and use a oil base lube rather than a chain wax as a wax picks up grime and grinds away at your rings and cutting the like of the chain and sprokets

AND DONT CLEAN YOUR BIKE CHAIN WHILE BIKE IS RUNNING OR IN GEAR
Work with the basics and do them well and remember both the good and bad and right and wromg ways things happened and apply that too your next bike

[nzspokes]

I wouldn't worry about a scotoiler for your bike untill your ready too upgrade

you still got a centre stand? if so use it for cleaning and lubing your chain....do it after a decent ride clean and lube while the chain is still warm,I fine kero best for cleaning as it doesn't damage the O,X & Z rings depeneding on what chain you use, and use a oil base lube rather than a chain wax as a wax picks up grime and grinds away at your rings and cutting the like of the chain and sprokets

AND DONT CLEAN YOUR BIKE CHAIN WHILE BIKE IS RUNNING OR IN GEAR
Work with the basics and do them well and remember both the good and bad and right and wromg ways things happened and apply that too your next bike

Cheers, Going to stick with a basic chain as I hear they have the least drag. Im big on maintenance so keeping on to of it is no issue.

[nzspokes]

I worked out that the change in gearing drops the revs to 6630 at 100 from 7000. She comes on to power about 6000 and pull through 9000 so I think it will be fine.

Stock it must be about 5500 at 100.

Just gotta save up for it now. It will keep going for a bit, cant get much worse.

[gatch]

take the OLD rear sprocket into an engineering shop ... he should be able to make a new one (or three for later) for you.

Ask at more than one place though ...

Easy yes, cheap no. Some sprocket blanks can cost more than items from a bike shop. Then there's cost of boring and drilling.. And that's only rear sprockets, fronts need splines cut. More $$..

[nzspokes]

Well its all done now. Amazing the difference it made to the bike.