Chain lube?

[marco77]

I have just had my Hyosung 250 Aquila in for service and all was good no problems at all i was told to remember and lube my chain due to the wet weather etc i was about to have a look online and order one is there any that are better suited for my bike any help on this is apprecited.

Thanks again

Marco

[Spearfish]

Freshly squeezed penguin oil is the best.

[marco77]

246426


Must try that yeah

[Katman]

<img src="http://www.vstroma.com/MaximaChainWax.jpg"/>

Brand name - Maxima.

Better than chain lube for road bikes.

[bogan]

Brand name - Maxima.

Better than chain lube for road bikes.

used to use that, but even better is the Teflon stuff, sprays on wet then goes dry so it doesn't pick up dust :D

[marco77]

Thanks very much for that i will try and order it now online from an Auckland retailer i take it most bike shops will stock this yes ???? i wasnt sure if a wax or spray was going to work better for me.

[marco77]

i see some comments in reviews that wax clogs up with crap and the spray is better now am confused what to opt for

[oracle]

I was recommended motul (feeling old cause I can't remember who by) and have used that and really like it

http://motomail.co.nz/estore/style/moclroad400.aspx

[Lurch]

http://www.motomail.co.nz/estore/style/sesclsxwax383.aspx

This stuff is the shizz. Available all over the place.

[Katman]

i see some comments in reviews that wax clogs up with crap and the spray is better now am confused what to opt for

Don't over think things.

A few things to bear in mind.......

Lube your chain at the end of your ride when the chain is warm. It will be ready to go for the next ride.

Lube your chain often with a small amount rather than rarely with a copious amount.

[geoffm]

If you are planning todo any major miles, get a Scottoielr (or one of the various alternatives). Pays for itself with convenince andlonger chain life.I have one on the SV and havehad them on a number of bikes in the apst.The RD and RG just get Castrol chain lube from Supercheap every ride.

[The Lone Rider]

My own maintenance consists of every 1000K I put the bike up on a lift, put the bike in neutral, rotate the rear wheel while holding a rag on the chain, and repeat until the chain is fairly clean.

I then turn on the bike, with it in first gear, and using a long nozzle, spray castrol chain oil on the chain as it rotates. Down the middle, and both sides. I then let it run awhile, then give another light spray.

[DrunkenMistake]

My own maintenance consists of every 1000K I put the bike up on a lift, put the bike in neutral, rotate the rear wheel while holding a rag on the chain, and repeat until the chain is fairly clean.

I then turn on the bike, with it in first gear, and using a long nozzle, spray castrol chain oil on the chain as it rotates. Down the middle, and both sides. I then let it run awhile, then give another light spray.

Yip if you can take the chain off, take it off and soak it in kerosene.

and MAKE SURE your fingers are NOWHERE near the chain while its moving, or youll be known as 2 finger Freedy.

[p.dath]

i see some comments in reviews that wax clogs up with crap and the spray is better now am confused what to opt for

They contain a solvent that evaporates with heat and then sets onto the chain. Hence the need to apply them to a warm chain.

A lot of the time when people have trouble with clogging or flicking it is because they apply it to a cold chain and then go riding (wrong way around).

Also make sure you wipe off any excess after applying it. It doesn't need to be applied so thickly that it is making a mess all over the floor because it is running off.

Typically I use it every time I fill up my tank (to give you an idea of how often), after I come back from a ride.

[Grubber]

http://www.motomail.co.nz/estore/style/sesclsxwax383.aspx

This stuff is the shizz. Available all over the place.

Iv'e used that stuff and yea it's pretty damn good to be fair. Bugger all, if any, fling of it.

[oneofsix]

I was recommended motul (feeling old cause I can't remember who by) and have used that and really like it

http://motomail.co.nz/estore/style/moclroad400.aspx

heard that stuff is good but apply a day before the next ride? seriously? doesn't suit a commuter where you are riding every day. Tried some wax stuff that wanted 15 minutes before a ride, which is ok, put it on at night and its ready to go the next day.

[sinfull]

Brand name - Maxima.

Better than chain lube for road bikes. Used to use that one but Just trying the synthetic clear in the silver can , like the result so far ! Went a bit heavy to start with but it needed a wetting down lol hell mess on the deck ! But after a few rides/days it's still there ! Bit of splatter but to be expected !

[oracle]

heard that stuff is good but apply a day before the next ride? seriously? doesn't suit a commuter where you are riding every day. Tried some wax stuff that wanted 15 minutes before a ride, which is ok, put it on at night and its ready to go the next day.

I've always just put it on at night or the weekend and not had an issue for the next ride

[oneofsix]

I've always just put it on at night or the weekend and not had an issue for the next ride

Ok so you have found overnight is enough. Being male I hate commitment especially if it means committing to not using the bike at the weekend :sunny:

[sinfull]

Ok so you have found overnight is enough. Being male I hate commitment :
Yep yep yep yep yep !!!! My sentiments exactly

[oracle]

Ok so you have found overnight is enough. Being male I hate commitment especially if it means committing to not using the bike at the weekend :sunny:

Yeah first thing back from uni, give it a quick clean then lube then dinner and all good for the morning

[Flip]

A bit of oil often is the way to do it, not lots infrequently.

I don't believe there is much difference between the brands of chain lube, Folk seem to rant about the wax but I don't see how a wax can lube properly. On road bikes it's water and internal corrosion that kills chains, not dirt. I have never cleaned a chain seems like a big waste of time to me.

I do know a couple of people who have lost fingers cleaning chains :gob:, never put anything near a chain you don't want cut off, in a very nasty manner.:facepalm:

Great fan of Scott Oilers, my 1200 Trophy did 80,000 on its last chain, and I only had to adjust it twice in this time.

[Zedder]

A bit of oil often is the way to do it, not lots infrequently.

I don't believe there is much difference between the brands of chain lube, Folk seem to rant about the wax but I don't see how a wax can lube properly. On road bikes it's water and internal corrosion that kills chains, not dirt. I have never cleaned a chain seems like a big waste of time to me.

I do know a couple of people who have lost fingers cleaning chains :gob:, never put anything near a chain you don't want cut off, in a very nasty manner.:facepalm:

Great fan of Scott Oilers, my 1200 Trophy did 80,000 on its last chain, and I only had to adjust it twice in this time.

From what I can gather, Scott Oilers seem to be the best overall for lubing chains and the wax doesn't have the necessary properties that oil or grease provide.

In place of a Scotty though, I've been using the Bel Ray Super Clean lube for quite a while and in combination with a regular chain cleaning routine (300kms), it appears to do the job.

[bogan]

Does nobody else use the Dupont Teflon multi use stuff? Cleanest chain lube I've ever used, by a large margin. Haven't noticed any performance differences, but I don't often need to replace chains anyway. Much drier than a oil or wax, so less likely to pick up dirt or grit, and says something about being self cleaning, which I guess means the teflon repels any grit out of the high pressure areas.

[Katman]

Some people seem to be a bit confused as to what they are doing when they 'lube their chain'.

You're not actually lubing inside the chain. What you're doing is providing a layer of lube between the chain rollers and the sprockets.

The grease that is kept inside the rollers by the O rings is what is lubing your chain.

[Zedder]

Some people seem to be a bit confused as to what they are doing when they 'lube their chain'.

You're not actually lubing inside the chain. What you're doing is providing a layer of lube between the chain rollers and the sprockets.

The grease that is kept inside the rollers by the O rings is what is lubing your chain.

Sure Katman, but the lube we apply does get to the area of the side plates outside the o ring or x ring area as well as the contact areas of the chain rollers and sprockets. It all helps don't you think?

[Zedder]

Does nobody else use the Dupont Teflon multi use stuff? Cleanest chain lube I've ever used, by a large margin. Haven't noticed any performance differences, but I don't often need to replace chains anyway. Much drier than a oil or wax, so less likely to pick up dirt or grit, and says something about being self cleaning, which I guess means the teflon repels any grit out of the high pressure areas.

I haven't tried it yet but did read that it can dry out a bit too much. I'll revisit the subject though.

[bogan]

Some people seem to be a bit confused as to what they are doing when they 'lube their chain'.

You're not actually lubing inside the chain. What you're doing is providing a layer of lube between the chain rollers and the sprockets.

The grease that is kept inside the rollers by the O rings is what is lubing your chain.

Of course this depends on whether your chain has O-rings in the first place :innocent:

[Scouse]

I have stopped lubing chains now its so messy

[tigertim20]

I have just had my Hyosung 250 Aquila in for service and all was good no problems at all i was told to remember and lube my chain due to the wet weather etc i was about to have a look online and order one is there any that are better suited for my bike any help on this is apprecited.

Thanks again

Marco
get some from supercheap auto, they stock it, ots cheap and a can lasts ages. I use a grease type one, so it doesnt flick off onto my wheel and make it dirty!


Don't over think things.

A few things to bear in mind.......

Lube your chain at the end of your ride when the chain is warm. It will be ready to go for the next ride.

Lube your chain often with a small amount rather than rarely with a copious amount.

what he said is bang on the money. I think they recommend it like every few hundred kms or so.

[oracle]

I think they recommend it like every few hundred kms or so.

I've read on a couple of occasions that you should lube it every 500km and clean and lube it every 1000km. But I've seen how cruddy the chain can get in even 50km and would rather spend the 30min and like $2 on kero to clean it every time. The thing that spent the most time I think is since I don't have a paddock stand get and the fxr didn't have a centre stand having to do a section, wheel the bike forward a half a metre or so, put more newspaper down to keep the parents' driveway clean then struggle to keep the newspaper from blowing away. Just as well my driveway was just long enough that I would just reach the footpath when I reached the end of the chain that I hadn't cleaned (or lubed on the way back) yet

[Katman]

Pull the bike over onto it's sidestand to get the rear wheel just off the ground.

Rotate the wheel a little by hand and then put the wheel back on the ground.

[sinfull]

Or a scissor jack to hike up one side while it's on the side stand !


so it doesnt flick off onto my wheel and make it dirty!
.

Don't care !

[bogan]

Pull the bike over onto it's sidestand to get the rear wheel just off the ground.

Rotate the wheel a little by hand and then put the wheel back on the ground.

I used a bit of 2x2 that slotted nicely under the rhs peg when it was lifted, raised the rear wheel about 5mm. Saves pulling the bike over each time you need a new bit of chain.

[oracle]

Pull the bike over onto it's sidestand to get the rear wheel just off the ground.

Rotate the wheel a little by hand and then put the wheel back on the ground.

Given that I'm not the biggest girl in the world and the bike was well over my weight I was fine with my method, better that than risking dropping the bike with me under it

[Katman]

Given that I'm not the biggest girl in the world and the bike was well over my weight I was fine with my method, better that than risking dropping the bike with me under it

Get someone to show you how to do it.

You'll find it a piece of cake.

[HenryDorsetCase]

My ST - R had had a scottoiler fitted at some point. It wasnt fitted when I got the bike, but the legacy is a HUGE amount of shit all over the back of the bike. A complete arse to clean, took ages.

I had wondered if they were worth getting but based on that, I wouldnt bother.

I have a can of either ELF or Motul (I think) "Chain wax" in a brown can which is excellent.

[oracle]

Get someone to show you how to do it.

You'll find it a piece of cake.

I know how to do it, I've done it before when checking out the last bike I had and it wasn't easy trying to keep the bike stable and turn the wheel. But as I said I'd rather not risk it when I had enough driveway that I could do it my way, only pain was the newspaper which would be just as bad if the bike stayed in one place. I'm gonna buy a paddock stand if my offer on a new bike gets accepted tonight anyway. So no more worries for me :woohoo:

[Katman]

I know how to do it,

No worries - you just keep doing it your own way then.

[explode64]

Chain Saw Bar Oil! Sticks like shit to a blanket, Been using it on our Road Bike and Shifter Kars for years.

[MaxCannon]

Back when I used to have to worry about such things I did the following.

Got a big bottle of Kerosene from the supermarket (cheaper than the servo).
Saved an old toothbrush from the bin.
Got a 1L bottle of chainsaw bar lube oil from Repco - about $10 I think.
Got a $2 paintbrush from the warehouse.
Turned an old T-shirt into a rag.

Every 1000km I'd chuck on some gloves, put the bike on the centrestand, brush the chain with kerosene using the toothbrush. Rub it clean with the rag.
Wait a few minutes for the kero to evaporate then spread a tiny bit of oil over the whole chain using the paintbrush.

When I serviced the bandit before it was sold the chain and sprockets had barely worn in 15,000km of hard riding.

3 bikes, 30,000km and it cost me about $30 all up (and I still have most of the that oil).

But nowdays I just get on the bike and ride wondering why more bikes don't have shaft drive.

[shanks]

I really appreciate the free advice that we can get on Kiwibiker!

Since Im a newbie and I want to clean my chain because I have no idea when it was last done by the previous owner... So to sum it up

I clean the chain with kerosene and toothbrush and rag!
Then I ride the bike for a wee bit to heat up the chain.
Now that the chain is warm, I apply the Chain Saw Bar Oil like this one? http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Penrite-Chain-Saw-Bar-Oil-1-Litre.aspx?pid=20079#Description

Then I wait one day before riding?

If you have any suggestions for type of lube to use, do let me know. Its a hornet 250.

[p.dath]

I've probably stick to ordinary motorcycle chain lube specially designed for the purpose, which you'll be able to get at any motorcycle dealer. There are different kinds suited to different purposes - but not really bad options, so don't get worried about weather to go for chain wax, chain lube, or chain something as - as long as it is intended for chain lubrication.

You only apply the lube to the inside rollers, and only once around the chain. Once done wipe the excess off the outside of the chain with a rag.

You don't need to wait a day before doing riding. Just a short while for the solvent to evaporate leaving just the sticky lube behind.


You don't need to clean the chain with Kerosene as often as you lube it either. If you are riding on the road every week only lube the chain weekly (lube it each time you go through one tank of fuel), and clean it every six months with Kerosene.


And if given the choice, it is better to apply a little bit of lube frequently, than lots infrequently.

[bsasuper]

Well I have used maxima chain wax for about 19 years now, it wont fling off or attract dust, a big can will last for ages ($18 last time I got one).I've tried everything from other brands of waxes, gels, no fling super whatever, but I found maxima chain wax to be the best.Chainsaw bar oil is what it says on the label, for a chainsaw, not a motorcycle chain.

[Flip]

Oil is oil. A little often is better than the best oil infrequently.

Oil weekly, or especially after rain or a dirty ride and daily when touring.

IMHO the best for chain life is a standard GL5 gear oil because it is thick and has a very strong boundary lubricant additive. It just makes a bit of a mess if you put too much on. Its very easy to put it on with a small brush, a liter if HD90 will last years.

We used to make motorcycle chain oil and chain bar oil, it was basically the same stuff. It was made from all the slops , all we used to add a tack additive.

[Owl]

I bought a litre of Prolan (heavy) and used that over the period of a year lubing two chains.

Now I have 4 litres:facepalm:, but I wouldn't recommend it for standard type chains. X-ring - O-ring, it works great and cleans the chain well.

[bsasuper]

Oil is oil. A little often is better than the best oil infrequently.

Oil weekly, or especially after rain or a dirty ride and daily when touring.

IMHO the best for chain life is a standard GL5 gear oil because it is thick and has a very strong boundary lubricant additive. It just makes a bit of a mess if you put too much on. Its very easy to put it on with a small brush, a liter if HD90 will last years.

We used to make motorcycle chain oil and chain bar oil, it was basically the same stuff. It was made from all the slops , all we used to add a tack additive.

So in other words it was cheap to make (Big profit), but crap for use on a motorcycle chain.If oil is oil, why dont you use cooking oil then.

[Flip]

There is no specification for chain oils, even the chain makers don't have one.

Cooking oil has a relatively low film strength especially at high temp, has little or no ability to stick to metal and is easily biodegradable to give three reasons. However if I was in the middle of a desert and had a dry chain it would be much better than nothing.

[caspernz]

Any lubricant is good, the only difference being the amount of crap you gotta clean off your bike depending on how tacky it is and how much you put on....

Me, I use a Scottoiler. Each time I wash the bike I spray a little kero to clean off the crap that's been flung around, doesn't bother me much. Chain and sprockets last much longer when lubed properly....

[curly]

Pull the bike over onto it's sidestand to get the rear wheel just off the ground.

Rotate the wheel a little by hand and then put the wheel back on the ground.


Get someone to show you how to do it.

You'll find it a piece of cake.

Kinda like this:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79RgJ29lb9U&feature=feedwll&list=WL

[MaxCannon]

I'll point out that regular use of chainsaw bar oil kept the chain in top notch condition and was much cheaper than using the spray lube.
Castrol sell a chain oil in a can. It does much the same job but is pricey by comparison.

But thesedays I have a clean and maintenance free shaft drive.
It's shame they don't make more sportsbikes with shaft drive. Then when it was nice morning for a ride you wouldn't have to spend 20 minutes cleaning the chain - you'd just hop on the bike and ride.

[bluninja]

I'll point out that regular use of chainsaw bar oil kept the chain in top notch condition and was much cheaper than using the spray lube.
Castrol sell a chain oil in a can. It does much the same job but is pricey by comparison.

But thesedays I have a clean and maintenance free shaft drive.
It's shame they don't make more sportsbikes with shaft drive. Then when it was nice morning for a ride you wouldn't have to spend 20 minutes cleaning the chain - you'd just hop on the bike and ride.

If you clean (if you need to) and lube the chain after a ride it's all ready for you next time you want to hop on. I know it's a chore, but then I can check the brakes, tyres, and give the bike a quick once over so I know all is good.

[otter]

Another option that may not be recommended by many. But I kind of lube my chain when I remember and after I've cleaned it (same time as washing bike) (Sometimes every 500KM, sometimes more). I have no idea how often I lube it, and just discovered the other day a bit of rust on one side because I wasn't managing to get any spray on that side. But fuckit I'll just get a new chain after this one, some things aren't worth the effort.

[Daffyd]

I have a clean and maintenance free shaft drive.
It's shame they don't make more sportsbikes with shaft drive. Then when it was nice morning for a ride you wouldn't have to spend 20 minutes cleaning the chain - you'd just hop on the bike and ride.

You can say the same for a belt drive.

[shanks]

So I bought the Castrol Chain Oil today to lube the chains with. The Repco guy suggested to use the degreaser to clean the chain (photo attached). Do you guys think this is the right thing to use or should I be using Kerosene?

Cheers

250440250441

[Blackbird]

Does nobody else use the Dupont Teflon multi use stuff? Cleanest chain lube I've ever used, by a large margin. Haven't noticed any performance differences, but I don't often need to replace chains anyway. Much drier than a oil or wax, so less likely to pick up dirt or grit, and says something about being self cleaning, which I guess means the teflon repels any grit out of the high pressure areas.

Yep, I've used the Dupont Teflon for the last year on the Street Triple and agree with your findings - best I've come across. Little or no fling. Apply it every 500 km or thereabouts and never have to adjust the chain between tyre changes so I guess there's stuff all wear! I think I paid around $31 for a can late last year and I'm still using it.

I had a Scottoiler on the Blackbird and at 60,000 km, the chain and sprockets were in great condition. As others have said, the offset is fling and a dribble from inside the front sprocket housing where it flings onto the crankcase.

[baffa]

So I bought the Castrol Chain Oil today to lube the chains with. The Repco guy suggested to use the degreaser to clean the chain (photo attached). Do you guys think this is the right thing to use or should I be using Kerosene?

Cheers

250440250441

I used a similiar degreaser on my bike, with great results.

You dont need a huge amount of degreaser, it's more about elbow grease with rags and possibly a toothbrush, and I leave it for a little while to make sure all the degreaser has dripped off / evaporated before lubing it up again.

[spinergy]

Or you could give someone a can of degreaser in the pitch dark and tell them it's chain lube aye Baff :niceone:

[p.dath]

So I bought the Castrol Chain Oil today to lube the chains with. The Repco guy suggested to use the degreaser to clean the chain (photo attached). Do you guys think this is the right thing to use or should I be using Kerosene?

Cheers

250440250441

If your riding a road bike, and you appear to be, you only need to clean the chain every 6 months or so (you'll see dust and dirt starting to stick to it, and generally not looking clean). I'm sure the degreaser you have will be fine. People use Kerosene because it is good - and cheap. A hard combination to argue with.

[Flip]

I don't think it is a good idea to use a degreaser at all, no sir not ever.

The degreaser will get into the internal spaces in the chain and in the rain will emulsify the chain lube and wash it out. Secondly those strong emulsifiers are not lubricants. I am also sure those strong emulsifiers are also hydroscopic and attract water.

What the fuck would I know anyway.

[Owl]

What the fuck would I know anyway.

Not how to spell hygroscopic!:p

But yeah, I certainly wouldn't be using degreaser to clean a chain.

[p.dath]

I don't think it is a good idea to use a degreaser at all, no sir not ever.

The degreaser will get into the internal spaces in the chain and in the rain will emulsify the chain lube and wash it out. Secondly those strong emulsifiers are not lubricants. I am also sure those strong emulsifiers are also hydroscopic and attract water.

What the fuck would I know anyway.

I guess it depends on what type of chain it is, but most chains are sealed, and a degreaser should not be able to get into the internals of the chain itself. If external elements could get into the internals of the chain, like water, then the chain would quickly break down.

Typically you only lubricate a chain to help the rollers. The lubricant put on most chains is not for the "internals" of the chain.

[bsasuper]

degreasers will dry out the orings ,if your chain has em.

[SMOKEU]

I use Spectro chain wax. I wax the chain every 500km, and scrub it with a plastic kitchen dish scrubber and kerosene every 1000km, then I clean off the kerosene with a rag.

When I do my 500km wax, I do it as soon as I get home from a ride so the chain is still warm. However, when I clean the chain with kerosene and a brush, the chain cools down. Should I then take the bike for a short ride without putting any wax on the chain in order to warm the chain up so I can then wax it, or should I wax it straight after cleaning it by which time it will be cold?