Hyosung dies, blows fuses

[sapperj]

Have a weird problem with my Hyobag... Blows a fuse when I switch it off, either by the kill switch or key... also indicators wont work when bike is moving, yet everything works while bike is in neutrel and running, or just ign on... WTF?
Any ideas as to how to trouble shoot this problem? I have replaced battery a month ago due to it dying and not holding a charge... could this indicate regulator fault?
Cheers for any help.
Jason

[Spearfish]

Is probably going to be a test of patience and the purchase a half decent multimeter and if your really keen a service manual. It could be anything from a faulty component to a broken wire in the loom some place.

Good luck.

[sapperj]

So I have stripped the bike down, cleaned all the electrical connectors and looked for exposed wire etc... alot of oil and dirt on the sidestand switch... and clutch switch was faulty, easy fix... also checked manual for resistance specifications for regulator / rectifier, Hmmmmm can only get a reading when checking using standard resistance setting, when I switch over to K etc I get nothing, but appling conversion the readings are low and dont seem to get readings between certian pins... dont know if Im doing it properly etc... So i pluged it back in and checked voltage to battery with bike running at 5000Rpm, 13.2V... Low, did magneto no load test and readings should be between 67 - 99V.... between 2 pins I only got 8.5V and the others a max of 64V. So If magneto is shitting itself, would this fuck the regulator? and could these 2 things combine to cause main fuze to blow as well as other previously mentioned problems??? Some advize would be appreciated before I go running off to buy new magneto and reg.
Chur

[bogan]

Do a resistance check on your stator (proper term for magneto), will be three wires coming from it to your reg/rect right? Unplug the connector and check between all combinations of those pins (3 values), and also check the resistance between each of those pins and earth. Post numerical results.

[steve_t]

Fuse blows when you turn the bike off? I'm picking a short in the ignition switch or the wires to it

[sapperj]

Resistance between all 3 pins = 002 / 001 ohms, Tested as follows.
- on 1. 2=002, 3=002
- on 2. 1=002, 3=001
- on 3, 1=002, 2=001
Slightly lower between pins 2 and 3

As to switching off, it doesnt matter if I use kill switch or key, or stall, as soon as engine stops the fuze pops, and I think it did it once when i went to use indicators as a set of lights friday... even when i replaced fuze, indicators didnt work and the horn sounded really week, but while riding it didnt blow it. strange aye

[steve_t]

As to switching off, it doesnt matter if I use kill switch or key, or stall, as soon as engine stops the fuze pops, and I think it did it once when i went to use indicators as a set of lights friday... even when i replaced fuze, indicators didnt work and the horn sounded really week, but while riding it didnt blow it. strange aye

Oh yup. Never mind me. Can't read properly :innocent:

[sapperj]

Oh yup. Never mind me. Can't read properly :innocent:

No worries man... but yeah I checked all wiring to switch etc... got me baffled lol

[steve_t]

OK, I'm going with a dying Reg/Rec :drinkup:

[bogan]

Resistance between all 3 pins = 002 / 001 ohms, Tested as follows.
- on 1. 2=002, 3=002
- on 2. 1=002, 3=001
- on 3, 1=002, 2=001
Slightly lower between pins 2 and 3

As to switching off, it doesnt matter if I use kill switch or key, or stall, as soon as engine stops the fuze pops, and I think it did it once when i went to use indicators as a set of lights friday... even when i replaced fuze, indicators didnt work and the horn sounded really week, but while riding it didnt blow it. strange aye

Sounds like there is probably a short in the stator windings between 2 and 3. Did you check the resistances to earth as well?

Also, will it still blow fuses if you unplug the rec/rect from both the stator, and battery?

[sapperj]

Yes I checked all 3 pins to earth, multimeter reads open circut... zero ohms.
If it has shit itself that might explain the low voltage on one of those phazes...

But why doesnt it blow when the bike is running / stopping in the garage... only happens when I ride, even if I just go to the end of the street and back.
Arghhhhh

[bogan]

So it's the main fuse that blows, a 30Amp possibly found on top of the starter solenoid?

[sapperj]

So it's the main fuse that blows, a 30Amp possibly found on top of the starter solenoid?

Main fuse found in tail fairing, rated at 15amp, but it blows 30's as well...

[bogan]

Main fuse found in tail fairing, rated at 15amp, but it blows 30's as well...

Any chance you got a wiring diagram for it?

[sapperj]

Sure do...
Will try to post

[sapperj]

have uploaded... dont know where it went tho lol

[bogan]

I can see it, the one marked fuse box is the one that blows I guess. Not a lot I can see there that would cause it, especially since it happens with the kill switch or the key. Unplug the reg and go for a ride, see what happens when you turn it off then.

[sapperj]

Trial and error... Sweet man. Back later. Just have to put it all back togeather first ffs... $130 for a new stator, $90 for the regulator. Might have to bite the bullet and replace both sein as the alternator/ magneto/ stator is down on one phaze anyway

[sapperj]

unpluged the reg, got to the end of the driveway and dead... must be a short somewhere????

[bogan]

unpluged the reg, got to the end of the driveway and dead... must be a short somewhere????

What do you mean by dead, just cut out, or won't start again either, or blew the fuse?

[sapperj]

Stalled and fuze poped, same as before

[bogan]

Stalled and fuze poped, same as before

But this time is the only time it has done it before you have turned it off right?

[sapperj]

no, did it once on friday when i stopped at a set of lights and turned indicator on... if there is a loose wire in the stator, could be shorting when engine revs drop??? just a thought.

[bogan]

A short in the stator shouldn't draw current out from the battery though. And it just did it when both stator and reg/rect were disconnected anyways. Going from the wiring diagram, that wire from that fuse goes straight to the ignition barrel, for it to blow when you turn the ignition off, it either short to ground somewhere along that wire, or you ignition barrel shorts it to ground, or your reg/rect shorts it.

But since it also happens with the kill switch, it is unlikely to be the ignition barrel. And it still happens when the reg/rect is unpluged, so unlikely to be that. I'd look for potential shorts somewhere along that wire in the loom, likely to be at junctions, or parts where it get hotter.

That all assumes it is a single cause issue, and not a multitude of course, fingers crossed!

[sapperj]

So assume I strip the loom out, fault test all wires etc... should I replace stator anyway based on my voltage test results... It may not be related to this particular fault but I know it is down on 1 Phaze, and not sure if rectifier is ok, again based on resistance test... dont want to waste money but I need the bike and intend keeping it for the next few years...

[bogan]

So assume I strip the loom out, fault test all wires etc... should I replace stator anyway based on my voltage test results... It may not be related to this particular fault but I know it is down on 1 Phaze, and not sure if rectifier is ok, again based on resistance test... dont want to waste money but I need the bike and intend keeping it for the next few years...

That is one option, another is to clip the multimeter onto the wire, and earth. Then see if you can replicate the failure condition. Another is to bypass the bit of wire you think might be causing the issue. Depends on what your loom is like to get to as to which one might be best.

[sapperj]

Just thinking... as this problem primarily occurs when the bike is ridden... might look at the neutral switch and associated wires in and around the gearbox / sprocket area... will post results when I have time to look into this

[TOTO]

what about getting it to an authorised hyosung service agent ?

[ducatilover]

I'd go with Bogan's theory of that little wire, or your ignition barrel is shorting out inside itself somehow?

[sapperj]

what about getting it to an authorised hyosung service agent ?

Maby if I win lotto... plus I have the time to fuk around with it and I enjoy the challenge. Also I like to share this problem here and get other peoples views... and if I fix it, I have learned something and others who may have a similer issue in the future can recall this post and troubleshoot their own problems :-)

[JustNick]

Is it possible that you have a wire that is shorting when you turn the handle bars? Chaffed wire etc? If you start the bike and let it idle for a period of time, does it still blow fuses?

[sapperj]

Is it possible that you have a wire that is shorting when you turn the handle bars? Chaffed wire etc? If you start the bike and let it idle for a period of time, does it still blow fuses?

I can start and stop the bike, idle it and rev it up etc with no problems, time after time.... untill I put it into gear and ride it, even a few meters in a straight line, then as soon as the engine stops (kill switch / Ign switch or stall) the fuze blows....

[ducatilover]

I can start and stop the bike, idle it and rev it up etc with no problems, time after time.... untill I put it into gear and ride it, even a few meters in a straight line, then as soon as the engine stops (kill switch / Ign switch or stall) the fuze blows....
Disconnect sidestand switch and tie both wires together, so the same with the clutch switch.

[sapperj]

Disconnect sidestand switch and tie both wires together, so the same with the clutch switch.

did that yesterday... that was my 'easy fix' lol, now the neutral indicator is one I cant bypass... or is it lol

[JustNick]

did that yesterday... that was my 'easy fix' lol, now the neutral indicator is one I cant bypass... or is it lol

Looking at the diagram, if you wanted to isolate the neutral switch it looks like you could just disconnect it and earth the wire out, I don't think that would accomplish much though.

[sapperj]

Yeah, I think Im gona strip the bike anyway... get it sorted for summer. Nothing like a full rebuild to iron out all the bugs... plus I bought a Clubsport a few weeks ago and am Loving it

[JustNick]

Yeah, I think Im gona strip the bike anyway... get it sorted for summer. Nothing like a full rebuild to iron out all the bugs... plus I bought a Clubsport a few weeks ago and am Loving it

Yah they're cool cars, I've got me an older model clubby.

[actungbaby]

it chould be wire getting pulled with regaurd to indicators seems if they work when bike not moving . but retrace your steps when you repalced the battery what you
moved or touched
and in this case might be better taking to good auto electrian might save alot hassle in long run should not be blowing fuses like that esp not the main one
whould seem to indicate your getting short of some kind check no bare wires touching the frame chaffed wiring around sterring head try moving the bars with indicators going also make sure your fuse you replacing is right amperage as the orginal one


Have a weird problem with my Hyobag... Blows a fuse when I switch it off, either by the kill switch or key... also indicators wont work when bike is moving, yet everything works while bike is in neutrel and running, or just ign on... WTF?
Any ideas as to how to trouble shoot this problem? I have replaced battery a month ago due to it dying and not holding a charge... could this indicate regulator fault?
Cheers for any help.
Jason

[not2slow]

Sapperj,
Have you trawled through Korider? There is alot of posts about the reg/rec and strator blowing out? Your symptoms sound like some of the posts on Korider which end up being the reg/rec...just a thought?

Sounds like when you turn off the bike all the electrical charge is getting dumped back to the charging system and blowing your fuse...reg/rec not working or connection to it is dodgey???...but did you say you tested it....brain not w..o...r...k...i...n...g :blank:

[sapperj]

Sapperj,
Have you trawled through Korider? There is alot of posts about the reg/rec and strator blowing out? Your symptoms sound like some of the posts on Korider which end up being the reg/rec...just a thought?

Sounds like when you turn off the bike all the electrical charge is getting dumped back to the charging system and blowing your fuse...reg/rec not working or connection to it is dodgey???...but did you say you tested it....brain not w..o...r...k...i...n...g :blank:

Yes I tested the Reg/Rec and the test results were not to spec... Might be onto something there with it dumping charge back through the system... however it still blew the fuze with the reg/rec disconnected... just a thought, should I have disconnected the Stator wires as well as the reg??? who knows.

[not2slow]

Any Hyobag riders in Palmy you can ask to swap out the reg/rec to try and eliminate??

[jellywrestler]

Any Hyobag riders in Palmy you can ask to swap out the reg/rec to try and eliminate?? be careful with that as something else may have cooked it and you don't want to have to owe another...

[tri boy]

Check the feed wire for the horn.

[not2slow]

be careful with that as something else may have cooked it and you don't want to have to owe another...

True :facepalm:

[sapperj]

Yeah I dont want to blow someone elses reg... This weekend I will have time to continue my investigation... thanks for all the pointers, but as it only happens when in gear, I will start with the neutral switch, then a through re check of the loom... as finances permit I will replace faulty stator and reg/rec anyway. Bikes are like women. fun to ride but expensive to keep... thank god I have a car!

[fastoyz]

hey i have a spare regulator from an 2007 i parted out, $20 shipped if you want it

[sapperj]

PM me for details man

[sapperj]

hey i have a spare regulator from an 2007 i parted out, $20 shipped if you want it

Cheers G, I fitted the reg and did all the preliminary tests, worked fine... Than went for a quick ride up the street and again, worked fine.

Heads up to other Hyo riders... if you have electrical faults... check the Voltage Regulator :shit:

[slofox]

Cheers G, I fitted the reg and did all the preliminary tests, worked fine... Than went for a quick ride up the street and again, worked fine.

Heads up to other Hyo riders... if you have electrical faults... check the Voltage Regulator :shit:

Finally! I was quite intrigued by this thread and wondered what would come out in the wash. Now I know. Thanks for posting up the resolution of the problem.

[steve_t]

Yup. R/R's seem to be really fragile. Kawi have had huge issues with them in recent years :blink:

[JustNick]

It's great to hear a happy ending mate.

[sapperj]

Just need to get some K's up now... new tryes, chain etc WOF... roll on summer

[not2slow]

Yep, rec/reg is a know problem. Good that you solved it. There is now a new model of rec/reg which is supposed to better and are physically larger but still fit older Hyos (so i have been told).

Good work!

[Spearfish]

Good job, plus you know your bikes nervous system a little better.

[bogan]

Good to hear it is solved, I'm left wondering why it wouldn't run when the reg was unplugged though... put it through its paces before any long trips just in case I reckon.

[sapperj]

Good to hear it is solved, I'm left wondering why it wouldn't run when the reg was unplugged though... put it through its paces before any long trips just in case I reckon.

Yeah... I still wonder about that. I did notice a couple of other wires comming from the stator that didnt apper to go through the reg... must work with it somehow but when I disconecter the R/R I didnt unplug the wires comming from Staror, just the connectoer to R/R... But like you say, a couple of short runs first to proof the repair.