PDA

View Full Version : XR200 tips wanted



nzspokes
28th September 2011, 21:30
Well I got me a 82 XR200. Its a bit in bits right now. But i dont think its far from running. I need brake/clutch levers, kick start, clutch cable plus a few other bits and bobs. But the motor supposedly had a rebuild not long before it got parked up. Its got s 230 kit fitted so should go ok.

Any other things I can do to it while its in bits to help haul my 100kgs about?

Can you get old sticker kits for them?

Going to re-oil the fork, I believe the rear shock is serviceable? Its got a XR250 rear spring. Not sure if thats a good thing.

But it seems to be an honest bike. Gunna be fun when its going. :woohoo:

Jinxycat
28th September 2011, 21:53
come on, you know we all want photo's!!

nzspokes
28th September 2011, 21:59
come on, you know we all want photo's!!

Will do some in the morning.

I had an XL185 when I was young and the XRs were the bike to have. Found some stickers online. Probably will recover the seat over the weekend.

Motu
28th September 2011, 22:15
A Wiseco cam and piston with a larger dia pipe livened them up - although they lost bottom end. But they were a WOT bike anyway,who cares about bottom end.

nzspokes
28th September 2011, 22:17
A Wiseco cam and piston with a larger dia pipe livened them up - although they lost bottom end. But they were a WOT bike anyway,who cares about bottom end.

Yeah not sure what this 230 kit is, maybe bore, rod and piston. Not sure but pipe looks stock.

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 06:33
Pic time. Seat and tank are just sitting on.

DEATH_INC.
29th September 2011, 08:47
Best wheelie bike EVER!!!!
They have a habit of shitting 3rd gear if you're rough with them tho. The suspension will prolly be way too soft for 100kgs (unless it's been dicked with). How much do ya wanna spend? Talk to Norm Cobb or R/T, but it'll be worth a fair bit to do.
I've run with guys on proper MX bikes on one of these (back in the day). They have a good flexible engine, and handle not too bad.
Cool bike :)

Jay GTI
29th September 2011, 08:52
They have a habit of shitting 3rd gear if you're rough with them tho.

Indeed they do, my old one did that.

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 08:56
Best wheelie bike EVER!!!!
They have a habit of shitting 3rd gear if you're rough with them tho. The suspension will prolly be way too soft for 100kgs (unless it's been dicked with). How much do ya wanna spend? Talk to Norm Cobb or R/T, but it'll be worth a fair bit to do.
I've run with guys on proper MX bikes on one of these (back in the day). They have a good flexible engine, and handle not too bad.
Cool bike :)

Its got a 250 rear spring. not sure if that will help it. doesnt seem to sag a lot with me on it. Cant see me being rough with it.

Budget very low, all just for fun.

CRF119
29th September 2011, 08:57
Yea a mate did 3rd gear 2 times. Otherwise the engine wont let you down. Suspension will need some work. May get away with a slightly heaver oil then what recommended in the shocks.

Lawrence
29th September 2011, 09:11
[QUOTE=nzspokes;1130164376]
Can you get old sticker kits for them?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/other/auction-409754706.htm

Taz
29th September 2011, 09:44
Find a dead 125 mxer and put the motor into that.

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 09:52
[QUOTE=nzspokes;1130164376]
Can you get old sticker kits for them?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/other/auction-409754706.htm

Going to see him tonight for the kick starter and clutch cable. :yes:

hes a good dude to deal with.

CRF119
29th September 2011, 12:15
Find a dead 125 mxer and put the motor into that.

I had a RM125 with a worked XR200 motor in it back in 2000, it was a great bike.

ktm84mxc
29th September 2011, 12:37
Yes an XR200 donk has powered many a special, even remember a VB Montesa powered one out Puke way.
A good fix is to replace the front end with CR125 or similar stay with conventional forks an 84-88 yr with disc brake. As the standard were a bit weak at 36mm & the braking with single leading shoe drum.

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 13:41
Best wheelie bike EVER!!!!


Love the sound of that!!:woohoo:

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 19:00
Well got my hands on a kick start. Bit of gas down the plug hole. Kicked it.

And it fired!! Ran for a second!! :woohoo:

Will be running by the end of the weekend.:yes:

fridayflash
29th September 2011, 19:33
great to see another xr200 being appreciated! ive got one, and had many over the years, a mate of mine has a real hot one...reputedly nz's fastest xr200
(due to vmx wins)

still leave the bigger newer bikes at home and take the 'ol twohundy to trailrides
great fun!

fridayflash
29th September 2011, 19:35
check this out............247637

fridayflash
29th September 2011, 19:37
btw...............thats the hot xr being ridden in snow by xrjohnny!

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 20:08
Thats real cool. Hope mine ends up looking like that.

barty5
29th September 2011, 20:21
ive got a rear spring out of an old xr your welcome to (free) pick in new market may be some other g/box bit have to check

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 20:28
ive got a rear spring out of an old xr your welcome to (free) pick in new market may be some other g/box bit have to check

Sweet!! Thanks, will PM next time im heading to town.

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 20:32
Now has working clutch and front brake. Reckon if I muddle through it over the weekend it will be rideable on Sunday. :woohoo:

But may go help me mate get his TS185 going. Dont want to ride alone.

Apart from the lack of a chain. :facepalm:

But will tear down forks, they feel kinda stiff. Think there gummed up. On lookout for good headlight and surround for it. But that can wait. No budget for a bit.

fridayflash
29th September 2011, 20:39
Thats real cool. Hope mine ends up looking like that.

yep its a hot looking bike..not like mine hehe
we were thinking of heading up to woodhill for an xr200 weekend sometime in the future, will have to let you know!

nzspokes
29th September 2011, 20:45
yep its a hot looking bike..not like mine hehe
we were thinking of heading up to woodhill for an xr200 weekend sometime in the future, will have to let you know!

Shit yes I would be up for that. But I will be a total newby.

Also need to make a rack for on the back of the car.

merv
29th September 2011, 21:07
I loved my XR200RD 1983 model and it is one bike I wouldn't regret it if I still had it. When I bought mine new in March 83 my Bro' was punting his XR200RB. See this old post http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/13568-More-old-pics?p=271518#post271518 we thrashed those bikes relentlessly and they never broke. If you restore yours to its former glory it will be a great bike.

fridayflash
29th September 2011, 22:19
i rode with your brother neil on his later xr200 and dr350 merv
great bloke!

fridayflash
29th September 2011, 22:22
Shit yes I would be up for that. But I will be a total newby.

Also need to make a rack for on the back of the car.

youll be right mate, we all start at the beginning
..........see if you can pickup a cheap trailer, much more versatile

Rhubarb
29th September 2011, 22:37
Best wheelie bike EVER!!!! Cool bike :)

Hell yes.

I had an XR200RC. I would love to have another one now.

I've wheelied many bikes but the 200RC was the easiest and best balanced by far.

For 5+ years it was my everyday ride and my weekend forestry trail blazer (every weekend!!).

I had the 230 kit put in mine (one of the first I believe, it was the first one M&V Honda sold).
I thought it was great bike before but as a 230 it was even better.

Mine cracked the frame just above the kick start but a decent tig welder solved that problem,

XR200RC ................. ahhhhh, Happy Days

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 05:50
Hell yes.

I had an XR200RC. I would love to have another one now.

I've wheelied many bikes but the 200RC was the easiest and best balanced by far.

For 5+ years it was my everyday ride and my weekend forestry trail blazer (every weekend!!).

I had the 230 kit put in mine (one of the first I believe, it was the first one M&V Honda sold).
I thought it was great bike before but as a 230 it was even better.

Mine cracked the frame just above the kick start but a decent tig welder solved that problem,

XR200RC ................. ahhhhh, Happy Days

Are you able to tell me what was in the 230 kit?

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 06:31
youll be right mate, we all start at the beginning
..........see if you can pickup a cheap trailer, much more versatile

Agree trailer would be easier but we dont have room to store one. My draw bar on the car has an amazing 100kg load rating so would be happy to hang it off the back. Will probably just make up one out of U channel.

B0000M
30th September 2011, 08:09
Budget very low, all just for fun.

lol, thats what we all said in the beginning

B0000M
30th September 2011, 08:13
Agree trailer would be easier but we dont have room to store one. My draw bar on the car has an amazing 100kg load rating so would be happy to hang it off the back. Will probably just make up one out of U channel.

weld a couple of pieces of RHS (box section steel) onto the outer edges of your tow bar. slot some 40x40 into these, make your wheel channel however you like. this is the easiest, cheapest and strongest way of doing it. never hang your bike off the tow bar tongue, the side to side twisting will fuck it if the down weight doesnt. if your heights happen to work out you will also retain the ability to tow a trailer.

thing to remember is your bike is allowed to hang out the sides of the vehicle by 250mm each side and 1m out the back before you need flags or lights. if your vehicle is wide enough - eg an SUV or van you may not need anything.

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 08:26
My car has a slide in tab, so will remake that to the rack. Rack is rated for 100kg static down load so should be fine. Will have a look under the car to make sure its all good. Will run straps to the boot to help with side loads.

Jay GTI
30th September 2011, 08:58
never hang your bike off the tow bar tongue, the side to side twisting will fuck it if the down weight doesnt.

This is true in most cases, but not always.

Standard towbars are generally rated for around 70kg static down weight, however not all are and I had mine custom built for my bike rack (bolts onto the tongue) and it’s rated to 100kg static down, same as with NZSpokes towbar. It still moves around (backwards and forwards, not side to side), but as long as I don’t put anything silly heavy on it, like a fuelled up DRZ400, then it will be fine.

The guy who built my towbar had seen a couple of failures, where the tongue had collapsed and the bike ended up being dragged along the ground behind the car. He’d built stronger custom towbars for them as well.

B0000M
30th September 2011, 10:10
This is true in most cases, but not always.

Standard towbars are generally rated for around 70kg static down weight, however not all are and I had mine custom built for my bike rack (bolts onto the tongue) and it’s rated to 100kg static down, same as with NZSpokes towbar. It still moves around (backwards and forwards, not side to side), but as long as I don’t put anything silly heavy on it, like a fuelled up DRZ400, then it will be fine.

The guy who built my towbar had seen a couple of failures, where the tongue had collapsed and the bike ended up being dragged along the ground behind the car. He’d built stronger custom towbars for them as well.


yeah sorry, i meant as a general rule, and unless you really know what you're doing

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 12:11
Sounds like the fork rebuild is not that hard. So will get the tank etc back on in the morning then get her running.

Forks will be the arvo job.

Jay GTI
30th September 2011, 12:47
Fork rebuilds are one of thise things that put people off, because they seem complex and require some special tools (or good home-made bodges), but once you've done your second rebuild, you'll wonder why anyone would pay someone else to do it.

Correctly setting up and modifying forks is a different matter, but rebuilds are simple.

merv
30th September 2011, 14:04
i rode with your brother neil on his later xr200 and dr350 merv
great bloke!

Yeah shame we lost him at the beginning of 2009 as he was one of my main riding buddies. In all he owned about 7 XR200s in the time I had the one and I think we agreed the D was the best model though not very different to the B or C. The later models had a different frame which wasn't as nice to ride as I found the frame rails rubbed against the shins of my boots too much so I never bought one after the D and 15 years service was cool anyway and I sold it feeling like it was still running like new.

Rhubarb
30th September 2011, 16:21
Are you able to tell me what was in the 230 kit?
Sorry, I don't know. I was just a hairy arsed teenager at the time. I just gave the repair shop a few weeks pay and rode away.

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 20:08
Got her to run for a few mins tonight. Bit of a timing chain rattle, need to work out how to adjust it. And rooted fuel line so will get some tomorrow. Ive got an old chain off the road bike to try. Doubt it will work but worth a crack.

Pretty happy.

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 20:27
What do you XR experts think of this filter? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=410463711 . Mines a bit average, plastic bit are knocked around.

I realise I would need to look at jets if I did.

neels
30th September 2011, 20:45
Sounds like the fork rebuild is not that hard. So will get the tank etc back on in the morning then get her running.

Forks will be the arvo job.
Forks are not too hard, although you may need a rattle gun to get the bolts out of the bottom if the internals are free to turn, someone will correct me if that doesn't apply to yours.

I've got a '83 XL250 that I stripped and rebuilt, and then have proceeded to trash ever since, awesome fun on the trails for bugger all money.

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 20:50
Forks are not too hard, although you may need a rattle gun to get the bolts out of the bottom if the internals are free to turn, someone will correct me if that doesn't apply to yours.

I've got a '83 XL250 that I stripped and rebuilt, and then have proceeded to trash ever since, awesome fun on the trails for bugger all money.

Ive read a few places about that. We will see I guess.

Its a very basic thing, so if I do things right at this point it should go for a good while. :yes:

reggie1198
30th September 2011, 20:54
Its got a 250 rear spring. not sure if that will help it. doesnt seem to sag a lot with me on it. Cant see me being rough with it.

Budget very low, all just for fun.

My older brother had an 83 XR200 (think it was an 83) he managed to shoe horn a CR250 spring into the rear and claims it fixed the bottoming out on the beach problem forever. Use the spring compressor things, fit spring and then release.

Great bike, it doesn't have the RFVC head does it (to early I think) as they had a tendency to crack if you stalled the bike in water....(or so I was told)

Enjoy

Reggie

merv
30th September 2011, 21:44
What do you XR experts think of this filter? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=410463711 . Mines a bit average, plastic bit are knocked around.

I realise I would need to look at jets if I did.

Have you got the original airbox and filter? If you have, just get a new foam for the filter canister. That one on your link sounds like it clamps straight onto the carb without an airbox mount and then your filter would be exposed to water by the look of it. Try Econohonda for a new filtr.

merv
30th September 2011, 21:45
Great bike, it doesn't have the RFVC head does it (to early I think) as they had a tendency to crack if you stalled the bike in water....(or so I was told)

Enjoy

Reggie

RFVC head was on the E model of 1984 so not the bike in this thread which is the B model.

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 21:53
RFVC head was on the E model of 1984 so not the bike in this thread which is the B model.

Ive got a RFVC motor in my CBX250rs. Its got some grunt for a 250. More hp than modern 250 road bikes.

I think the road motors were more reliable, bit different design.

nzspokes
30th September 2011, 21:55
Have you got the original airbox and filter? If you have, just get a new foam for the filter canister. That one on your link sounds like it clamps straight onto the carb without an airbox mount and then your filter would be exposed to water by the look of it. Try Econohonda for a new filtr.

Oh ok, I was thinking a pod type. The filter and foam are pretty dirty.

So pod type bad then? I will replace them when I get more $$$.

nzspokes
1st October 2011, 11:27
Well the airbox is not working, inlet pips to the carb is full of crap. So it may be pod filter once I get it going. The float valve is leaking to so it will need one of those. Had it running for 5 mins or so. No smoke but a random knock from inside, but each time in happened the sprocket spun so I think that will go once its got a chain.

May start on the front end after lunch.

nzspokes
1st October 2011, 13:15
Well forks done. They are a very simple thing. Also cleaned the front brake up that was glazed. Good days work.
:yes:

fridayflash
1st October 2011, 16:10
Well the airbox is not working, inlet pips to the carb is full of crap. So it may be pod filter once I get it going. The float valve is leaking to so it will need one of those. Had it running for 5 mins or so. No smoke but a random knock from inside, but each time in happened the sprocket spun so I think that will go once its got a chain.

May start on the front end after lunch.

where ever possible, use the original airbox with a quality foam element,
taking the snorkel out of the top is fine but dont hack big holes in it as some people do!! lol if inlet, and carb to airbox pipes are blocked just clean them out...if badly cracked run a bit of black window silicon around int & ext surfaces

as for pod type filters theyre a crap idea unless your an ace at re-jetting and intend to avoid water (thatd be no fun! )
most engines run best from the still air through the original box

have fun!

fridayflash
1st October 2011, 16:14
i must say this thread and comments from merv re his rd model make me want
another one....my current is a 1991 and fun to ride but the original
rb, rc and rd are the best abd soooo cool! why cant we walk into a bike shop and buy cheap and simple bikes like that anymore? real shame modern bikes get more and more biased to one function...to the point we need a bloody shed full!

nzspokes
1st October 2011, 17:21
as for pod type filters theyre a crap idea unless your an ace at re-jetting and intend to avoid water (thatd be no fun! )
most engines run best from the still air through the original box

have fun!

Fair enough. The problem is that it doesnt seal at a joint. So I will clean it out and once the carby goes back together I will duct tape it up. Im guessing jetting may be needed. Im happy to do that.

barty5
1st October 2011, 18:04
Fair enough. The problem is that it doesnt seal at a joint. So I will clean it out and once the carby goes back together I will duct tape it up. Im guessing jetting may be needed. Im happy to do that.

dosnt seal at which joint??

barty5
1st October 2011, 18:06
http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=187479&manufacturer=3&category=3&year=1982&model=4235

nzspokes
1st October 2011, 18:21
http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=187479&manufacturer=3&category=3&year=1982&model=4235

Guess its just come apart then looking at that. Just before the carb. The box bit that #10 is part of is in 2 pieces on mine.

nzspokes
1st October 2011, 18:22
Can I just clean the foam? if so how?

barty5
1st October 2011, 18:45
Can I just clean the foam? if so how?

some use kero or even just dish washing liquid and hot water just not petrol or harsh solvents

fridayflash
1st October 2011, 18:46
yep, you certainly can....warm soapy water matey in a bucket or the laundry tub
then pat it dry-ish between a rag then oil it... best way is pour a bit of oil
(engine oil if you dont have filter foam oil) about 50-75 ml at a guess
into a plastic bag and throw the clean filter into the bag and squelch it all around until you think the foam has an even spread of oil, and then its ready to re-fit
to the cage, and back into airbox

barty5
1st October 2011, 18:50
Guess its just come apart then looking at that. Just before the carb. The box bit that #10 is part of is in 2 pieces on mine.


if its the large square part that looks like a join id just either use black rtv or that Melamine Tape stuff you can get as it moulds to the shape really well.

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 07:59
I will tape the old one up today them. Needs a new float valve. It leaks out the overflow even after changing float height. Anybody know the float height on the Kehin carb?

Also have to make the kill switch work better. If the wire moves it kills the motor.

Jay GTI
2nd October 2011, 09:34
Jeez mate, can you stop all this work on your bike, please? Projects like this are supposed to take months and the forks at least should have spent a couple of weeks on your work bench in bits before you put them back together.

You're making me feel bad about the way I work on my projects....:o :msn-wink:

sugilite
2nd October 2011, 09:37
Well I got me a 82 XR200. I believe the rear shock is serviceable? Its got a XR250 rear spring. Not sure if thats a good thing.
But it seems to be an honest bike. Gunna be fun when its going. :woohoo:
I bought aXR200RD from new, great bike! The 250 spring would be a good idea imo. I always regarded the standard one being about as a spring in a bic pen :facepalm:


I loved my XR200RD 1983 model and it is one bike I wouldn't regret it if I still had it. When I bought mine new in March 83 my Bro' was punting his XR200RB. See this old post http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/13568-More-old-pics?p=271518#post271518 we thrashed those bikes relentlessly and they never broke. If you restore yours to its former glory it will be a great bike.

Hey Merv, did you guys ever ride your XR200's in the hills above South Karori, Parkside, Wrights Hill?

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 09:42
Jeez mate, can you stop all this work on your bike, please? Projects like this are supposed to take months and the forks at least should have spent a couple of weeks on your work bench in bits before you put them back together.

You're making me feel bad about the way I work on my projects....:o :msn-wink:

LOL, I just fixed the air box with RTV and duct tape overtop. Also fixed the kill switch. No more grabbing the plug lead. :shit:

Forks are easy. Ive been doing suspension work for years on bicycles. Motorcycle ones are very basic in comparison. I have an urge to convert them to shim stack. But they are super easy, if you can change oil in your car you can do these.

Hope to catch up with Alec from SME later on and get the float valve and maybe an old chain if he has one.

I have lots of spare time as you can see.....

fridayflash
2nd October 2011, 10:47
does this alec guy have xr bits? theres someone on trademe selling carb rebuild kits for xr200 pretty cheap... i need at least a new needle and jet for mine too

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 12:02
does this alec guy have xr bits? theres someone on trademe selling carb rebuild kits for xr200 pretty cheap... i need at least a new needle and jet for mine too

i would think so. He sells under Nikau on TM. Great guy, knows his shit. Linky, http://www.smebike.com/index.php?route=common/home . Wont bug him on sunday.

He had bits for my CBX that Honda had to special order. Honda quoted me $100 for a float valve, he had one in stock for $6. He works from home.

merv
2nd October 2011, 12:39
Hey Merv, did you guys ever ride your XR200's in the hills above South Karori, Parkside, Wrights Hill?

Here's a bit of a diversion from the XR200 story. I never rode the 200 up there because by then the land had been tied up in that absentee owner thing when Long Gully went to the pack, but I did ride up there for a few years in the 70's on my XL175 and back then you could ride all the way up the hill from the quarry around from Ohiro Bay, up over the Hawkins Hill radar station road, down the other side into Long Gully, then through to South Karori Road and up the other side, or else come in at Wrights Hill and ride through to the airstrip and do it all from there.

247764 XL175 on the hills above Cook Strait December 1978.

The most modern bike we ever took in there was my Bro's XL185S, then the land closed, but I have been back since now that you can pay to go into Long Gully or do it on the Capital Coast Adventure rides.

247763 XL175 and XL185S at the South end of Long Gully December 1978.

rogerh
2nd October 2011, 13:57
The riding up wrights hill, parkside, and South Karori was still good into the early 80's. Down South Karori and through to cable bay, then out through red rocks was good. I remember the really step bulldozer track up from the quarry toward the Ohwiro bay exit used to scare the crap out of me. Even though I had a monoshock (IT175) that handled better than anything else I had ridden at the time.

Where is Long gully?

fridayflash
2nd October 2011, 13:59
great pic merv! a couple of my friends had xl's new in the seventies and will be quite interested in these pics, and the others you posted in 'more old bike photos' thread

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 14:09
Well fixed the carb. Found a float valve that I had spare out of the CBX was the same and it worked. Ran her up fine. Then she stopped. Wont kick with out the clutch in and the output shaft wont turn at all. My guess is gearbox shat itself. :bye:

So motor rebuild time. :facepalm:

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 17:04
So whats the procedure for removing the motor?

Undo the mounts and watch it fall out?

merv
2nd October 2011, 17:09
So whats the procedure for removing the motor?

Undo the mounts and watch it fall out?

Yep that's it :yes:

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 17:21
Yep that's it :yes:

To wet outside now to start.

But I think I will enjoy doing it. need a workshop manual. Just had thoughts of stripping it right down and paint the frame. Maybe respoke the wheels. Hmmmmmm

merv
2nd October 2011, 17:25
The riding up wrights hill, parkside, and South Karori was still good into the early 80's. Down South Karori and through to cable bay, then out through red rocks was good. I remember the really step bulldozer track up from the quarry toward the Ohwiro bay exit used to scare the crap out of me. Even though I had a monoshock (IT175) that handled better than anything else I had ridden at the time.

Where is Long gully?

Long Gully runs from Wrights Hill to the Coast - track comes out between Red Rocks and Oteranga (Cable) Bay. It goes down that track that was blocked in my 1978 photo due to the huge washout. Nowadays there is a bit of a drop out and a locked gate you can just sneak around but the land owner expects payment these days. Back in the late 70's it had an absentee owner and then once it got settled up the new owner locked us all out. Remember the loan scandal known as the Fitzgerald loan affair in the early 1980s. Jim Fitzgerald's wife Audrey was the daughter of the then Minister of Agriculture, Duncan McIntyre. Somehow they bought Long Gully, which became their Brooklyn farm, with government loans and didn't welcome visitors much to the disgust of Wellington people that had roamed that land.

Different owner nowadays I think.

The track to Owhiro Bay was a steepie alright, the old XL loved it with their 4 stroke traction but on one rare occasion I just couldn't get my XL up it on dry summers day on trials tires because the gravel was just so dry and loose. Every other time we went up and down it fine, rain or shine. If I'd had the XR200RD then it would never have failed to get up that hill.

nzspokes, you will enjoy that XR when you get it right.

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 20:52
Would a XR250 motor fit my frame?

fridayflash
2nd October 2011, 20:55
not worth considering spokes, itd change the original bike for the worse
if your stuck for gearbox probs theres an xr200 complete botom end/gearbox on tm for $125.00

cave weta
2nd October 2011, 21:18
HOLD THE BUS!

Now that you have diagnosed shat motor. Stop spending. I can do you brand spanking 230 motor with carb and pipe and other bits like USDforks and forged clamps. new wheels and air cleaner. all at prices that you wont believe.

I can't give you prices tonight as the 'dealer' part of my suppliers website is down but look at this photo and see what parts could be used on your bike. spares for these bikes are insanely cheap....

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=35aszt3" target="_blank"><img src="http://i54.tinypic.com/35aszt3.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=2dm724n" target="_blank"><img src="http://i52.tinypic.com/2dm724n.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 21:19
just found complete http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-411650648.htm

I may just do that. Wonder if it will fit on my pack rack of the CBX?

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 21:21
HOLD THE BUS!

Now that you have diagnosed shat motor. Stop spending. I can do you brand spanking 230 motor with carb and pipe and other bits like USDforks and forged clamps. new wheels and air cleaner. all at prices that you wont believe.

I can't give you prices tonight as the 'dealer' part of my suppliers website is down but look at this photo and see what parts could be used on your bike. spares for these bikes are insanely cheap....


Umm, wouldnt fit?

cave weta
2nd October 2011, 21:24
Umm, wouldnt fit?

Are you asking me or telling me?

It will fit if you take your motor out......

The mountings are the same.

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 21:26
Are you asking me or telling me?

It will fit if you take your motor out......

The mountings are the same.

Asking. Really?

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 21:33
Are you asking me or telling me?

It will fit if you take your motor out......

The mountings are the same.

Can you PM me some pricing tomorrow please?

cave weta
2nd October 2011, 21:53
Can you PM me some pricing tomorrow please?

As soon as I can get into the site Ill get prices.
Ive got brand new bikes here if you want to see them. go here for lots of photos

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/140344-Forza-230f-here-in-NZ-Dirtbikes-for-the-common-person/page2

nzspokes
2nd October 2011, 21:59
As soon as I can get into the site Ill get prices.
Ive got brand new bikes here if you want to see them. go here for lots of photos

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/140344-Forza-230f-here-in-NZ-Dirtbikes-for-the-common-person/page2

Sorry, not being rude but are you sure they fit? Are these size motors standard mounting points etc? And sprockets, exhaust bolt up?

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 05:07
just found complete http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/complete-engines/auction-411650648.htm

I may just do that. Wonder if it will fit on my pack rack of the CBX?

Would a 90s motor fit my frame?

cave weta
3rd October 2011, 07:00
Would a 90s motor fit my frame?
I doubt if the head of the RFVC motor will have the same mounting. But then we dont even have a photo of the motor on trade me.

All this is like trying to give you a haircut over the phone. Best thing is to start finding out these things. Your motor has to come out, start getting some measurements between mountings and then we will know.

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 07:08
I doubt if the head of the RFVC motor will have the same mounting. But then we dont even have a photo of the motor on trade me.

All this is like trying to give you a haircut over the phone. Best thing is to start finding out these things. Your motor has to come out, start getting some measurements between mountings and then we will know.

RFVC motor only ran for 2 years, 83/84. 90s will be 2 valve like mine. Thats a motor I know well. Me CBX has one. Mounts are completely different. Just unsure on later 2 valves.

cave weta
3rd October 2011, 12:30
You asked how much power? with the PZ28 carb 20hp - with the flat slide 30mm and the performance pipe 22hp.
Here is the Forza mounts:


<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=b3n3nn" target="_blank"><img src="http://i51.tinypic.com/b3n3nn.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 12:45
[QUOTE=cave weta;1130167585]You asked how much power? with the PZ28 carb 20hp - with the flat slide 30mm and the performance pipe 22hp.
Here is the Forza mounts:


Edited by Cave Weta. - reason quoted image removed.


Get me that price baby, im getting intrested.

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 15:41
Get me that price baby, im getting intrested.

Off to measure up soon. price yet?

husaberg
3rd October 2011, 16:11
Well I got me a 82 XR200. Its a bit in bits right now. But i dont think its far from running. I need brake/clutch levers, kick start, clutch cable plus a few other bits and bobs. But the motor supposedly had a rebuild not long before it got parked up. Its got s 230 kit fitted so should go ok.

Any other things I can do to it while its in bits to help haul my 100kgs about?

Can you get old sticker kits for them?

Going to re-oil the fork, I believe the rear shock is serviceable? Its got a XR250 rear spring. Not sure if thats a good thing.

But it seems to be an honest bike. Gunna be fun when its going. :woohoo:

The RE/RF 250 forks go in (With the Yokes) and have disks and better forks and yes the shock can be rebuilt.
Unlike the later models.
Finding a re or RF front end shouldn't be a problem as the engines in them were trouble.
I will post some info later. Later USD forks are also possible.
They are a real good old school dirt bikes.
Real easy to ride and as long as the oil is changed they last well.
They have a few well know issues with the kick start and some other problems if the oil changes are not done regular.
There are few tuning tricks with these but it is best to keep it simple. if you need something a lot faster.
Then you should really get a faster later model bike.

Agreed with the others about the cr125 or similar conversion.
They are one of Honda's all time best bikes.
A real future cult bike and a practical all rounder capable of embarrassing some far more costly bikes.

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 16:24
Well it looks like the Forza motor may well fit. Measurements look right.

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 16:25
They have a few well know issues with the kick start and some other problems if the oil changes are not done regular.


My guess that is whats wrong with mine, hope to strip motor tonight.

husaberg
3rd October 2011, 19:01
My guess that is whats wrong with mine, hope to strip motor tonight.

I would sugest you get a Hayes/clymer or similar Manual Or use YouTube. Put this and a couple of tools for Mag and Oil filter. There is stuff on the net of how to bodge one out of a socket or similar. If needed a good sites if you do decide to tune it, is this one.

http://vincentcrabtree.co.uk/XR200.aspx

http://justxr.com/jh_info/xr200_2.html

http://www.powroll.com/P_HONDA_XR200.htm

http://webcamshafts.com/mobile/motorcycle/honda/honda_xr_200_(90-02)_sohc_2v.html

Tools or bodge

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSBIXNtwBgI

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hrow7YjUSbA

But get a tool and you can keep it for life.

PS It would be cheaper but not as much fun to buy a Chinese motor.

Below the stuff available back in the day.
PS Grass Kart guys have vast experience with these motors.You don't need to spend big cash to make them fly.
BUt then you need to do the suspension to also.

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 21:23
Right motor out and part stripped. What I have found so far is a mark all the way round the flywheel where part of the stator housing had moved and was rubbing. Not sure this is the cause of anything but it now turns over where as before it wouldnt. And found marks on the clutch like something had been hitting it, but no matching marks on the cover. In the photo of the clutch I can move the housing around by hand as shown in the photo. Is this normal?

Also found that the inlet port and exhaust port have been ported.

The motor turns over fine now. Unsure if I should just keep stripping or not now.

husaberg
3rd October 2011, 22:08
Right motor out and part stripped. What I have found so far is a mark all the way round the flywheel where part of the stator housing had moved and was rubbing. Not sure this is the cause of anything but it now turns over where as before it wouldnt. And found marks on the clutch like something had been hitting it, but no matching marks on the cover. In the photo of the clutch I can move the housing around by hand as shown in the photo. Is this normal?

Also found that the inlet port and exhaust port have been ported.

The motor turns over fine now. Unsure if I should just keep stripping or not now.

Stator housing Moved?
Are you sure try moving the crank at the stator.
A wiggle up and down.
I would think the crank would be more likely to move than the Stator assuming it was bolted down to the cover properly?

Sorry cant see the marks on the clutch try refitting the stator and see if it is still turning Trail and error if it is the stator I would say the mains are done which isn't that common.?I also doubt it would lock the engine.

Mismatched clutch springs to by the look of it.

What is the starter like.

What do you mean turn the housing on the clutch does the primary gear and secondary gear move to?

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 22:14
Stator housing Moved?
Are you sure try moving the crank at the stator.
A wiggle up and down.
I would think the crank would be more likely to move than the Stator assuming it was bolted down to the cover properly?

Sorry cant see the marks on the clutch try refitting the stator and see if it is still turning Trail and error if it is the stator I would say the mains are done which isn't that common.?

Its the part in the stator housing where the wiring comes in, part of that has moved up. I tried to show it in the photo of the inside of the housing. I cant see that being the problem though. Becuse I could turn the motor over when the clutch was applied but it would lock up with the clutch not applied.

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 22:17
Mismatched clutch springs to by the look of it.

What is the starter like.

Not sure about the clutch springs, is that due to color?

Starter? Kick start seems to work ok? what should I be looking for?

husaberg
3rd October 2011, 22:19
Not sure about the clutch springs, is that due to color?

Starter? Kick start seems to work ok? what should I be looking for?

Yes They don't seem to match in the pic

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 22:21
Yes They don't seem to match in the pic

Is that a problem?

husaberg
3rd October 2011, 22:21
Its the part in the stator housing where the wiring comes in, part of that has moved up. I tried to show it in the photo of the inside of the housing. I cant see that being the problem though. Becuse I could turn the motor over when the clutch was applied but it would lock up with the clutch not applied.

Sorry I was thinking you were saying it was hitting the stator on the Magnets.

husaberg
3rd October 2011, 22:24
Is that a problem?

Not a problem if they are the same spec
But yes it is a minor issue if they are not, but it does suggest if they are mismatch some economising may have happened in a previous rebuild.

The clutch will not contact square and may judder or not operate correctly.

What is the actual problem with the motor what were the symptoms that lead you to strip it down.
The reason I ask is it is common for the Honda clutch plates to freeze together when they have been sitting for a long time.

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 22:32
What is the actual problem with the motor what were the symptoms that lead you to strip it down.

The motor would not kick start without the clutch being in. I had it running before but there was a banging noise from inside the motor. With the clutch off the motor would not kick start. The kick start lever would engage but not move from there. Pull the clutch and it would kick over but I didnt want it to run as major damage could follow.

husaberg
3rd October 2011, 22:37
The motor would not kick start without the clutch being in. I had it running before but there was a banging noise from inside the motor. With the clutch off the motor would not kick start. The kick start lever would engage but not move from there. Pull the clutch and it would kick over but I didnt want it to run as major damage could follow.

Banging noises? I don't like the sound of that either

http://forums.dirtrider.com/70/7676186/honda-dirt-bikes/1982-xr200-kick-start-trouble/index.html

I would suggest you take it into a trusted mechanic and let him have a look at it. It is almost impossible to diagnose without seeing stuff for me anyway.As you have striped it down it should not cost much.

nzspokes
3rd October 2011, 22:57
Banging noises? I don't like the sound of that either

http://forums.dirtrider.com/70/7676186/honda-dirt-bikes/1982-xr200-kick-start-trouble/index.html

I would suggest you take it into a trusted mechanic and let him have a look at it. It is almost impossible to diagnose without seeing stuff for me anyway.As you have striped it down it should not cost much.

I dont have a trusted mechanic!! Just me. LOL

I think a full tear down is needed.

In saying that the $200 motor on TM sounds good or the Forza motor sounds like a fun conversion, just waiting on price.

fridayflash
4th October 2011, 09:34
id say put your get that $200 motor and run it..itll fit perfectly and the at a later date try your top end (230cc and head, cam etc) on it
the forza motor would undoubtedly be good but nearly sacreligious
to fit to a bike of such cool status when there are other options
(not wanting to do you out of a deal though cavey!)

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 09:39
id say put your get that $200 motor and run it..itll fit perfectly and the at a later date try your top end (230cc and head, cam etc) on it
the forza motor would undoubtedly be good but nearly sacreligious
to fit to a bike of such cool status when there are other options
(not wanting to do you out of a deal though cavey!)

Those are my thoughts to. But guy on TM with motor not answering questions. And no price yet on the Forza. Found another XR200 that I may buy that cheap enough to take the motor from....

Then i will spend my time rebuilding my motor.

cave weta
4th October 2011, 13:24
ORDER NOW

Engine Crate Pakage - FORZA 230f engine Setup Kit

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part name: Engine Crate Pakage - FORZA 230f engine setup kit

Specification:
-Bore and Stroke: 65.5mm x 66.2mm
-Carburetor: PZ30
-Clutch: Multi Plate Wet Clutch
-Compression Ratio: 9:1
-Cooling: Air Cooled
-Engine: Four stroke 223cc SOHC Air Cooled
-Ignition: Stator/ CDI with lighting coil
-Transmission: 5 Speed Manual Clutch

The Setup Kit includes
-CDI
-Solenoid
-Regulator
-Ignition Coil
-Wire harness
-Start switch assy
-Spark Plug
-Gear Shift Lever
-Forged Alloy Kick Starter
-Carb intake & gasket kit

Suitable for: It fits in most of Honda CRF230, Yamaha TT-R230, Lifan 200/230, it might needs small modifications.

Price: NOW ONLY $999 (was $1300)

:woohoo:Whaddayknow! they have just reduced it by $300.00!:woohoo:

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 13:51
Price: NOW ONLY $999 (was $1300)

:woohoo:Whaddayknow! they have just reduced it by $300.00!:woohoo:

That sounds good and would be a great project. but it would appear my budget for this $600 so i will head down the buy another motor or rebuild route.

Cheers

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 14:26
So tonight i will try to get the flywheel off and pull the top off the motor.

I will see what I can see.

Guy on TM isnt getting back to me.

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 15:54
Anybody know where to buy a workshop manual from in Auckland?

fridayflash
4th October 2011, 16:36
ORDER NOW

Engine Crate Pakage - FORZA 230f engine Setup Kit

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part name: Engine Crate Pakage - FORZA 230f engine setup kit

Specification:
-Bore and Stroke: 65.5mm x 66.2mm
-Carburetor: PZ30
-Clutch: Multi Plate Wet Clutch
-Compression Ratio: 9:1
-Cooling: Air Cooled
-Engine: Four stroke 223cc SOHC Air Cooled
-Ignition: Stator/ CDI with lighting coil
-Transmission: 5 Speed Manual Clutch

The Setup Kit includes
-CDI
-Solenoid
-Regulator
-Ignition Coil
-Wire harness
-Start switch assy
-Spark Plug
-Gear Shift Lever
-Forged Alloy Kick Starter
-Carb intake & gasket kit

Suitable for: It fits in most of Honda CRF230, Yamaha TT-R230, Lifan 200/230, it might needs small modifications.

Price: NOW ONLY $999 (was $1300)

:woohoo:Whaddayknow! they have just reduced it by $300.00!:woohoo:


great value!!!! i wouldnt mind an old cg125 or similar re-powered with one of those
hehe:scooter:

neels
4th October 2011, 17:24
Did you buy this thing in bits or complete? A story to explain the reason for the question......

After I reassembled my XL250 motor from a kitset, and replaced a couple of bits that weren't in the box, it left a large puddle of oil on the floor of my garage. It turned out that the missing bits weren't missing, just hiding inside the engine. Hence it now has a repaired crankcase and a funny noise in 2nd gear from said missing part jamming between the gears. :facepalm:

And I might be wrong, but generally a loose clutch basket is a bad thing....

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 17:58
great value!!!! i wouldnt mind an old cg125 or similar re-powered with one of those
hehe:scooter:

Its a great deal for sure, Im just a bit short on buying it. Would be perfect.:bye:

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 18:02
Well Im fucked If I can get the thing apart. The flywheel wont move and the head allen bolts have been way over tightened. Ive got to drill one out. The screws holding the CDI wont undo either. Im guessing the monkey that rebuilt it over tightened everything. :facepalm:

No one will get back to me either. Im interested in that $200 trademe motor and a parts bike. But they wont respond to me. :facepalm:

Getting a bit over it.

cave weta
4th October 2011, 20:12
great value!!!! i wouldnt mind an old cg125 or similar re-powered with one of those
hehe:scooter:

30 years ago I put an xr200 motor into a CG110!- wheelied in 1,2 nd 3rd!

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 20:16
Smashed a screw driver trying to get the clutch screws undone. :facepalm:

Dont know what Im gunna do now.

cave weta
4th October 2011, 20:16
Well Im fucked If I can get the thing apart. The flywheel wont move and the head allen bolts have been way over tightened. Ive got to drill one out. The screws holding the CDI wont undo either. Im guessing the monkey that rebuilt it over tightened everything. :facepalm:

No one will get back to me either. Im interested in that $200 trademe motor and a parts bike. But they wont respond to me. :facepalm:

Getting a bit over it.

I know that a grand is a lot to spend but listen to these motors.....
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/c0ZbUkZZ-3E?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 20:26
I know that a grand is a lot to spend but listen to these motors.....


I have listened to them, and they sound great. Wish I had the extra 4 hundy. Got some stuff on Tm that may sell.

Would be a great project. I would say that you will sell a good few of these to re-powers. I would be real happy to review the conversion.

Does it come with a manual on how to put it all together? :facepalm:

barty5
4th October 2011, 20:35
happy to have a quick look at it if you want to bring it in to workshop

Newmarket auto repairs
13 mahuru st
5245571

ive got flywheel puller etc

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 20:41
I know that a grand is a lot to spend but listen to these motors.....


Question, I see they have an electric start. Do they need a battery to run?

Yes im back interested. At least that way I know what I have. No idea how I will come up with the cash. Will think on it.

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 20:45
happy to have a quick look at it if you want to bring it in to workshop

Newmarket auto repairs
13 mahuru st
5245571

ive got flywheel puller etc

Wow, thanks mate. I would struggle to get there during work hours due to my work. If I can work out how to get there I will let you know.

Thanks, very cool offer.

cave weta
4th October 2011, 21:38
Question, I see they have an electric start. Do they need a battery to run?

Yes im back interested. At least that way I know what I have. No idea how I will come up with the cash. Will think on it.

They only need the battery to start- not to run. If you paid me the $500 I could let you pay the rest off over 3 months. you won't need a manual - its plug and play:yes:

nzspokes
4th October 2011, 21:58
They only need the battery to start- not to run. If you paid me the $500 I could let you pay the rest off over 3 months. you won't need a manual - its plug and play:yes:

Cool, will seriously think about it then.

I could just run it on kickstart then?

My exhaust should bolt up?

Oh, does it come with a sprocket? or would mine fit?

Would I need anything else apart from oil?

cave weta
4th October 2011, 22:22
Cool, will seriously think about it then.

I could just run it on kickstart then?

My exhaust should bolt up?

Oh, does it come with a sprocket? or would mine fit?

Would I need anything else apart from oil?

will need your carb and pipe or I can do stainless steel pipe for $102 and carb for $96.00 15t sprocket supplied.

husaberg
4th October 2011, 22:31
Well Im fucked If I can get the thing apart. The flywheel wont move and the head allen bolts have been way over tightened. Ive got to drill one out. The screws holding the CDI wont undo either. Im guessing the monkey that rebuilt it over tightened everything. :facepalm:

No one will get back to me either. Im interested in that $200 trademe motor and a parts bike. But they wont respond to me. :facepalm:

Getting a bit over it.

Flywheel are you using a puller or is it the nut?

Have you been using a drift to free the thread on the bolts and screws do you have acesss to a impact driver?Have you tried heat?

on a few hondas you can use the rear axel to help remove the flywheel I cant recall if the XR200 is one of them.

nzspokes
5th October 2011, 06:32
Flywheel are you using a puller or is it the nut?

Have you been using a drift to free the thread on the bolts and screws do you have acesss to a impact driver?Have you tried heat?

on a few hondas you can use the rear axel to help remove the flywheel I cant recall if the XR200 is one of them.

Im not using the tools I need to be doing. So have stopped untill I get help our the right tools. And my gas torch is loaned out.

nzspokes
5th October 2011, 06:36
So here is my options,

1, New motor from Cavey. $1000. Gives me everything I need. Awesome deal.

2, Buy this, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=406710880 which has newly rebuilt motor. I could then just ride it. And slowly rebuild my motor which is 230 and drop into whichever is the best frame. Then sell off the remaining bike to get some money back.

3, Just keep trying to rebuild my motor.

4, Buy this if resonable price, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=412639179 but 5 hours away.

fridayflash
5th October 2011, 10:05
theres this auction in hamilton... 412662623 on trademe
sorry dont know how to put up flash link lol
would give you a bottom end and a good parts dept

nzspokes
5th October 2011, 10:16
theres this auction in hamilton... 412662623 on trademe
sorry dont know how to put up flash link lol
would give you a bottom end and a good parts dept

Thats intresting, have aske question on motor condition. Cheers

XRJohnny
5th October 2011, 10:57
Hey Spokes, you seem to be looking at way too many options, when you still dont know what is wrong with your origonal engine.
I would take Barty up on his kind offer to remove flywheel [ special tool required ], & while he,s at it can check whats visible so far & advise on further dissasembly.
I have a spare good workshop manual if you want. Ring me during working hours on 06/8353396.
I know it is fun to dream about modified bikes, but the reality is that: the real beauty of riding stock XR200,s well, is how much can be achieved with so little!
And also how much fun can be had doing this.

nzspokes
5th October 2011, 11:17
Hey Spokes, you seem to be looking at way too many options, when you still dont know what is wrong with your origonal engine.
I would take Barty up on his kind offer to remove flywheel [ special tool required ], & while he,s at it can check whats visible so far & advise on further dissasembly.
I have a spare good workshop manual if you want. Ring me during working hours on 06/8353396.
I know it is fun to dream about modified bikes, but the reality is that: the real beauty of riding stock XR200,s well, is how much can be achieved with so little!
And also how much fun can be had doing this.

Cheers mate, Will ring a bit later.

I would be happy to rebuild my motor but hitting a wall with it. If i can work a time to get to see Barty I will. Very busy at work.

I dont want to modify at all, just ride it. It was only supposed to be a fun project which has become a drama. :facepalm:

Jay GTI
5th October 2011, 12:21
Cheers mate, Will ring a bit later.

I would be happy to rebuild my motor but hitting a wall with it. If i can work a time to get to see Barty I will. Very busy at work.

I dont want to modify at all, just ride it. It was only supposed to be a fun project which has become a drama. :facepalm:

See, I told you that you were doing this project all wrong. If you’d done this my way, the forks would still be in bits on the workbench and you’d not have found the engine issues. Then, by the time you were bothered enough to put the forks back together, you’d have lost interest and just sold it on without even starting it.

I may be lazy, but there is method in my slackness…

nzspokes
5th October 2011, 15:31
So gots me a rattle gun and a manual on the way. Mate will bring in my gas torch tomorrow so hope to have it apart soon.

But I dont understand why the motor has freed up with the side covers off......:facepalm:

barty5
5th October 2011, 19:33
So gots me a rattle gun and a manual on the way. Mate will bring in my gas torch tomorrow so hope to have it apart soon.

But I dont understand why the motor has freed up with the side covers off......:facepalm:

ok so bike will run with the left side cover (alternator cover ) off if it where me id pull the clutch apart remove the 4 bolts holding down clutch pressure plate part NO:7
http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=187296&manufacturer=3&category=3&year=1982&model=4231

remove the clutch plate and steels see if they are dry if so lube and put back together and see how you go.


NOTE be careful with the spring retainer bolt DONT use the rattle gun on them they have a good chance of snapping if you do

nzspokes
5th October 2011, 20:43
ok so bike will run with the left side cover (alternator cover ) off if it where me id pull the clutch apart remove the 4 bolts holding down clutch pressure plate part NO:7
http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=187296&manufacturer=3&category=3&year=1982&model=4231

remove the clutch plate and steels see if they are dry if so lube and put back together and see how you go.


NOTE be careful with the spring retainer bolt DONT use the rattle gun on them they have a good chance of snapping if you do

Cool, thanks for that. I will try it. I would lube it with normal motor oil?

Do you think that could be the issue?

Was on the SASS ride tonight and mentioned I was working on an old XR. One of the guys said he used to have one. He asked if I needed the clutch tool and flywheel puller to which I said yes. He told me to follow him home and he lent them to me. Sweet!!

husaberg
5th October 2011, 22:19
theres this auction in hamilton... 412662623 on trademe
sorry dont know how to put up flash link lol
would give you a bottom end and a good parts dept

Add a link to add a link first copy the location of the site by right clicking on the mouse to highlight and press copy then go back to your post that you are doing and click on the funny looking picture below the Paperclip picture that looks like a globe with a set of Goggles below it
this will bring up the insert link bit and then right click again and select paste Be careful not to copy the bit that is before the www. bit as if you do the link will not work.Hit save and away you go One thing I forgot is you have to have clicked on where you whant to paste the link first.

The paperclip is used to upload a file or picture and is easy if you have save the pic press browse and click to the location of the picture in your computer you wish to post Happy clicking
Click on the name and away you go (you sometimes may have to click Use advanced to do this or to post a pic) esp if editing a post.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=412662623

Thread tools in each thread there is a bit up the top called thread tools click on this and select images this will show you all the Pics in a thread and makes navigation easy.ESP in a huge thread such as the ESE 2 stroke tuner thread.

barty5
6th October 2011, 06:09
Cool, thanks for that. I will try it. I would lube it with normal motor oil?

Do you think that could be the issue?

Was on the SASS ride tonight and mentioned I was working on an old XR. One of the guys said he used to have one. He asked if I needed the clutch tool and flywheel puller to which I said yes. He told me to follow him home and he lent them to me. Sweet!!

yup just the same oil as is in it as that is all that is going to lube it latter just make sure it is a bike engine oil due to the clutch. if they are dry they will be binding up or the oil can go like thick glue/grease if its been sitting for a while even though you had it running it would be enough to free them up.

while the left alternator cover is off put socket extension on the end of the crank nut holding flywheel on and and check for up and down play shouldn't be any

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 06:45
ok so bike will run with the left side cover (alternator cover ) off if it where me id pull the clutch apart remove the 4 bolts holding down clutch pressure plate part NO:7
http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=187296&manufacturer=3&category=3&year=1982&model=4231

remove the clutch plate and steels see if they are dry if so lube and put back together and see how you go.


NOTE be careful with the spring retainer bolt DONT use the rattle gun on them they have a good chance of snapping if you do

I got the springs and part 7 off the clutch and the main bolt. The main bolt had been fitted with a hammer and drift, you can see the tool marks. :facepalm:

But the main bolt holding the oil flinger cleaner thing is also been done up the same way. Even with a bar on it wont move. Will try heat and the rattle gun tonight. I had to drill out one of the screws holding its cover on.

The clutch does look dry which I guess it could be after being sitting for 7 years. Could I just pour oil through it now? I can move the plates apart by hand now the springs are off.

barty5
6th October 2011, 07:50
I got the springs and part 7 off the clutch and the main bolt. The main bolt had been fitted with a hammer and drift, you can see the tool marks. :facepalm:

But the main bolt holding the oil flinger cleaner thing is also been done up the same way. Even with a bar on it wont move. Will try heat and the rattle gun tonight. I had to drill out one of the screws holding its cover on.

The clutch does look dry which I guess it could be after being sitting for 7 years. Could I just pour oil through it now? I can move the plates apart by hand now the springs are off.


if you can move the plates from the steels etc one by one no reason you couldn't do it that way a little messy compare to putting them in an ice-cream container with oil in it but same effect.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 07:54
if you can move the plates from the steels etc one by one no reason you couldn't do it that way a little messy compare to putting them in an ice-cream container with oil in it but same effect.

So If I do that and fire it back together? Do you think that could have been my banging noise?

blackdog
6th October 2011, 07:58
So If I do that and fire it back together? Do you think that could have been my banging noise?

The banging noise is the neighbour with your missus because you have been spending too much time in the shed.

barty5
6th October 2011, 09:05
So If I do that and fire it back together? Do you think that could have been my banging noise?

wouldnt have thought so but youll know if you have one problem fixed checking for play in the crank will take that out of the picture as well. try with the plug out turning it over by hand with the covers off socket on flywheel nut helps you mat be able to hear feel the knock that way or help tell which area its in.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 09:22
wouldnt have thought so but youll know if you have one problem fixed checking for play in the crank will take that out of the picture as well. try with the plug out turning it over by hand with the covers off socket on flywheel nut helps you mat be able to hear feel the knock that way or help tell which area its in.

Its not a big/small end knock. But ive already checked for play in mains etc and the seem fine. It turns over from the flywheel fine, either in our out of gear with the covers off. No jamming or noise. Ive also shaken it upside down just incase there is something flying around in there. nothing.

The sound was more like something flying around in the motor. Banging at random times.

Thanks for your help by the way.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 09:23
The banging noise is the neighbour with your missus because you have been spending too much time in the shed.

Already caught her doing that, kicked her out years ago. :bye:

fridayflash
6th October 2011, 10:22
Cool, thanks for that. I will try it. I would lube it with normal motor oil?

Do you think that could be the issue?

Was on the SASS ride tonight and mentioned I was working on an old XR. One of the guys said he used to have one. He asked if I needed the clutch tool and flywheel puller to which I said yes. He told me to follow him home and he lent them to me. Sweet!!

XR MANIACS ARE EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!!!!!!:woohoo:

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 11:11
Im feeling the love!!

Think I will oil the clutch, tidy up the stator wiring then reassemble. Then try it out.

Ive just organised a new chain for the bike.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 17:07
wouldnt have thought so but youll know if you have one problem fixed checking for play in the crank will take that out of the picture as well. try with the plug out turning it over by hand with the covers off socket on flywheel nut helps you mat be able to hear feel the knock that way or help tell which area its in.

Just to carry on. no up and down play but a little side to side. Cant get the oil flinger of, smashed the tool trying. :facepalm:

Rechecked clutch plates and the seem wet in better light.

Cant get flywheel off with remover.

What are you opening hours? I think I need help before I take to it with a hammer. :shutup:

husaberg
6th October 2011, 17:24
Just to carry on. no up and down play but a little side to side. Cant get the oil flinger of, smashed the tool trying. :facepalm:

Rechecked clutch plates and the seem wet in better light.

Cant get flywheel off with remover.

What are you opening hours? I think I need help before I take to it with a hammer. :shutup:

Bite the bullet and borrow steel or buy or build a spanner for the clutch Hub and Oil centrifugal filter Please.......You can make one out of a old socket or a piece of pipe.

Before you sling it back together please check the kick starter is both engaging fully and more importantly disengaging as I believe this could be (I hope its not as then you will have to split the cases sorry) the source of your banging rather than the your now ex misses.
which i personally always found to be more of a moaner rather than a screamer :innocent:sorry.

BTW best check out the cam chain before you run the old dog as it seems to have been put together somewhat lacking in love I would also whip off the top of the head so make sure the cam tunnel in the head is not chewed up and there is not silastic everywhere to block up the oil-way also check the restrictor bung is in place as it looks like a bit a dick would throw out.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 17:30
Bite the bullet and borrow steel or buy or build a spanner for the clutch Hub and Oil centrifugal filter Please.......You can make one out of a old socket or a piece of pipe.

Before you sling it back together please check the kick starter is both engaging fully and more importantly disengaging as I believe this could be (I hope its not as then you will have to split the cases sorry) the source of your banging rather than the your now ex misses.
which i personally always found to be more of a moaner rather than a screamer :innocent:sorry.

Ive got that tool mate. Thats what I broke. I had a maybe 2 foot bar on it. Wouldnt move. I will check the kick start now.

Dont worry, new girlfriend makes up for deficiencies of my ex. :woohoo:

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 17:46
The kick start takes approx 1/4 turn to engage. Its hard to turn the motor over when it comes up to compression which is odd as the plug is out. I think I remember it not engaging all the time when is was starting it before. Seems to release ok.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 17:55
The kick start takes approx 1/4 turn to engage. Its hard to turn the motor over when it comes up to compression which is odd as the plug is out. I think I remember it not engaging all the time when is was starting it before. Seems to release ok.

I sense a problem there.
Did you follow the link I posted earlier?

http://forums.dirtrider.com/70/7676186/honda-dirt-bikes/1982-xr200-kick-start-trouble/index.html

Try turning the motor over by hand and listen to see if the starter gears are fully disengaging also make sure the gear lever shaft is not bent and the gears all engage and disengage before putting it back together.

Sorry I missed the tool had broken I thought that was the screwdriver. Are you using a drift to free off the threads just a tap mind you and or an impact driver.

PS when you say can get the flywheel off with the puller can you explain the process you have used on it thus far.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 18:02
I sense a problem there.
Did you follow the link I posted earlier?

http://forums.dirtrider.com/70/7676186/honda-dirt-bikes/1982-xr200-kick-start-trouble/index.html

I did. Ok so Its got to come apart. Which I dont mind. If I could get it apart.

I would rather find a problem that I can fix.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 18:15
I did. Ok so Its got to come apart. Which I dont mind. If I could get it apart.

I would rather find a problem that I can fix.

You seem to have dealt with the ex misses correctly:shutup:

Please remember the bit I suggested earlier about the trusted Honda Workshop.
Best if it is stater gears start with a Shinny new replica engine I would suggest as it is more fun to ride than fix a dog.
but if you are the determined type the starter geared have an uprated fix in later years and other upgraded parts. Or you can find a XL125s motor and switch the crank and top end over but it will still be an old motor. I would start new and maybe build up the old motor as finances allow into a giant killer.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 18:33
I sense a problem there.
Did you follow the link I posted earlier?

http://forums.dirtrider.com/70/7676186/honda-dirt-bikes/1982-xr200-kick-start-trouble/index.html

Try turning the motor over by hand and listen to see if the starter gears are fully disengaging also make sure the gear lever shaft is not bent and the gears all engage and disengage before putting it back together.

Sorry I missed the tool had broken I thought that was the screwdriver. Are you using a drift to free off the threads just a tap mind you and or an impact driver.

PS when you say can get the flywheel off with the puller can you explain the process you have used on it thus far.

I got a 4 pin tool from a mate, thats what broke.

Flywheel tool just winds in on a t handle. Guessing its not up to the job.

I want to get into see Barty, just hard with my work being very busy. I suspect he would fly through it.

Should have a manual turn up tomorrow.

i am going to a Bike mechanic to pick up a chain tomorrow. Will take motor and ask if he can pull off needed bits.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 18:39
I got a 4 pin tool from a mate, thats what broke.

Flywheel tool just winds in on a t handle. Guessing its not up to the job.

I want to get into see Barty, just hard with my work being very busy. I suspect he would fly through it.

Should have a manual turn up tomorrow.

i am going to a Bike mechanic to pick up a chain tomorrow. Will take motor and ask if he can pull off needed bits.

PS a dozen beers goes along way esp on a Friday afternoon.You would be amazed what can be accomplished with a dozen little cans.ESP near knock off time, Find a old fat dude that looks like he enjoys them.

PS have a look on You tube for dismantling an XR200 motor And see if you are missing a step with the puller.Just a guess

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 18:43
You seem to have dealt with the ex misses correctly:shutup:

Please remember the bit I suggested earlier about the trusted Honda Workshop.
Best if it is stater gears start with a Shinny new replica engine I would suggest as it is more fun to ride than fix a dog.
but if you are the determined type the starter geared have an uprated fix in later years and other upgraded parts. Or you can find a XL125s motor and switch the crank and top end over but it will still be an old motor. I would start new and maybe build up the old motor as finances allow into a giant killer.

So the starter gears are a problem on these? Im happy to rebuild mine. But want to move forward on it. Im stuck right now.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 19:02
That Forza motor is looking good right about now. At least it will run and be reliable.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 19:04
So the starter gears are a problem on these? Im happy to rebuild mine. But want to move forward on it. Im stuck right now.

Right as I see it the engine is possibly a nail. Although we don't know for sure yet. but its not looking good thus far.

Take it to a Workshop with a dozen cold ones on a Friday afternoon. Approach an old wise one. Get him to do an quick going over and see if it is worth preserving with get an indication on the cost for the bits needed.

Compare that to the cost of a new Chinese motor and only then you can sort of informed decision.The Honda will be a higher quality motor but is second hand and has been subject to many years of wear. The parts to rebuilt the Honda may be more than buying a Chinese motor without allowing for labour but it is rewarding to rebuild an old motor. If you decide to rebuild get some specialist help from the trade or someone with experience building and working on one of these.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 19:13
Right as I see it the engine is possibly a nail.But we don't know for sure yet.but its not looking good thus far.

Take it to a dealer with a dozen cold ones on a Friday. Get him to do an quick going over and see if it is worth preserving with get an indication on the cost for the bits needed.

Compare that to the cost of a new Chinese motor and only then you can sort of informed decision.The Honda will be a higher quality motor but is second hand and has been subject to many years of wear. The parts to rebuilt the Honda may be more than buying a Chinese motor without allowing for labour but it is rewarding to rebuild an old motor. If you decide to rebuild get some specialist help from the trade or someone with experience building and working on one of these.

Thats a fair call. I would be happy to make a call then. I did find some metal filings in the oil flinger. In saying that the top of the motor looks good. I suspect the 230 kit was fitted to a old bottom end.

I dont doubt the quality of the Forza motor, and would be a real fun project. And Cavey seems a good dude to deal with. It does max my budget out. And from the vid the motor sounds great.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 19:22
Thats a fair call. I would be happy to make a call then. I did find some metal filings in the oil flinger. In saying that the top of the motor looks good. I suspect the 230 kit was fitted to a old bottom end.

I dont doubt the quality of the Forza motor, and would be a real fun project. And Cavey seems a good dude to deal with. It does max my budget out. And from the vid the motor sounds great.


I hear all this talk about a 230 kit can someone fill me in on what it is.I ask as the Honda xr200 is not capable for a large increase in bore 4.5mm (70mm) is bloody hard and needs case work and new sleeve which would only still give 222cc. So to get to 230 would need to be stroked from my experience with them. I am happy to be proven wrong though.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 19:27
I hear all this talk about a 230 kit can someone fill me in on what it is.I ask as the Honda xr200 is not capable for a large increase in bore 4.5mm (70mm) is bloody hard and needs case work and new sleeve which would only still give 222cc. So to get to 230 would need to be stroked from my experience with them. I am happy to be proven wrong though.

Ive not been able to find out what this kit is. Ive not found any online reference to it. Its part of why I want it apart to find out. He had another later bike that he said it had one in as well. My guess is sleeve, rod and piston.

Im gunna go try and get the top off.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 19:59
Ive not been able to find out what this kit is. Ive not found any online reference to it. Its part of why I want it apart to find out. He had another later bike that he said it had one in as well. My guess is sleeve, rod and piston.

Im gunna go try and get the top off.

My guess is it will be only 1mm oversize at best a rod does nothing for capacity. if it was stroked you should see a spacer below the barrel.or a special piston but for it too work nice it should have a longer rod and a spacer.

I have an idea for a cheap OS piston for one and I will share with those that are interested. Have a look at the Vincent Crabtree site on the problem of the XR200 i posted earlier to get a look of the ideas for the XR200 and other Related Honda's. I will post it again for those that missed it.

http://vincentcrabtree.co.uk/XR200.aspx

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 20:31
Ok, tops off. had to drill out one of the allen bolts.

Bore looks great as does the piston. Im make it with tired eyes 65mm piston with 60mm stroke. There looks to have been machining done under where the barrell sits in the crankcase. Rings are real good. reading the spec says its not much bigger than stock. top of piston says 0.050. Hmmmmm

Did find a bit of crap in the mechanical advance.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 20:42
Ok, tops off. had to drill out one of the allen bolts.

Bore looks great as does the piston. Im make it with tired eyes 65mm piston with 60mm stroke. There looks to have been machining done under where the barrell sits in the crankcase. Rings are real good. reading the spec says its not much bigger than stock. top of piston says 0.050. Hmmmmm

Did find a bit of crap in the mechanical advance.

STD Honda dimensions are 65.5mm bore X 57.8mm Stroke
Some ATC200 3 wheelers were 65mm I think but with dished pistons.
The std Honda XR200 piston is flat topped.
So my guess is either a .5mm os piston at 66mm.or a .5mm os piston from a ATC200 in dished.Assuming it is a Honda piston I guess. Can you post some pics?

My guess its the stroke will be std as it would not be worth the trouble to stroke a crank 1mm.ESP when you can slip in a Chinese one.

actungbaby
6th October 2011, 20:51
Pic time. Seat and tank are just sitting on.

cool buddy looks awsome i remember when these came out like orginal tool bag on the back i brought 1990 version just got framed painted yours looks mint
the frame paint good there fun engine all seem to be in the right gear

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 20:53
My measurements will be off. Im tired and cant find my verniers. But will be close. piston is domed. Wonder if the old owner was told this is a 203 kit not 230.

actungbaby
6th October 2011, 21:02
just dont do what i did drop it of the work bench onto the concrete floor
but hole in the sump , well another one that wasint factory designed
i wraped a tensile wire around the fly wheel and then used car jack on
the crankcase and pulled it of like that
u according to the manuall use the rear wheel axle and use it to tread inside the
fly wheel but didnt work for me as wasint the right thread


Bite the bullet and borrow steel or buy or build a spanner for the clutch Hub and Oil centrifugal filter Please.......You can make one out of a old socket or a piece of pipe.

Before you sling it back together please check the kick starter is both engaging fully and more importantly disengaging as I believe this could be (I hope its not as then you will have to split the cases sorry) the source of your banging rather than the your now ex misses.
which i personally always found to be more of a moaner rather than a screamer :innocent:sorry.

BTW best check out the cam chain before you run the old dog as it seems to have been put together somewhat lacking in love I would also whip off the top of the head so make sure the cam tunnel in the head is not chewed up and there is not silastic everywhere to block up the oil-way also check the restrictor bung is in place as it looks like a bit a dick would throw out.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 21:19
just dont do what i did drop it of the work bench onto the concrete floor
but hole in the sump , well another one that wasint factory designed
i wraped a tensile wire around the fly wheel and then used car jack on
the crankcase and pulled it of like that
u according to the manuall use the rear wheel axle and use it to tread inside the
fly wheel but didnt work for me as wasint the right thread

I mentioned the Axel earlier cant remember which Honda it is for.
My guess is now don't take this the wrong way
But do you wear Gumboots to work.
It is just a guess I gut the feeling you are either work in Agriculture, Aquaculture or Siviculture am I close.
my guess is Dairy Industry?

There is another way when you are caught without a puller it is.

But it is so much easier and cheaper in the long run to use the correct factory puller.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 21:26
I will take the motor with me to the bike mechanic and see if he can quickly take the flinger and flywheel off.

Its not a 230 kit I would say but 203.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 21:26
My measurements will be off. Im tired and cant find my verniers. But will be close. piston is domed. Wonder if the old owner was told this is a 203 kit not 230.

Engines grow when they are for sale.

A coulple of pics from the side would be nice and underside of the piston.
From the top it looks like a Wiseco 12:1 If it is a Score, Thats A 200 dollar Piston.
PS the case look like that STD.But someone has loved the motor in the past at least.
.5mm os only = 197.7cc on a std stroke.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 21:34
Engines grow when they are for sale.

A coulple of pics from the side would be nice and underside of the piston.
From the top it looks like a Wiseco 12:1 If it is Score, Thats A 200 dollar Piston.
PS the case look like that STD.
.5mm os only = 197.7cc on a std stroke.

Will do more photos tomorrow. With a bit of luck the case will be split.

It doesnt look/feel like a cheap piston. It has a brand mark on the bottom. I will post up pic.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 21:38
Engines grow when they are for sale.

A coulple of pics from the side would be nice and underside of the piston.
From the top it looks like a Wiseco 12:1 If it is a Score, Thats A 200 dollar Piston.
PS the case look like that STD.But someone has loved the motor in the past at least.
.5mm os only = 197.7cc on a std stroke.

On closer inspection, there is a W in an oval circle.

husaberg
6th October 2011, 21:41
Will do more photos tomorrow. With a bit of luck the case will be split.

It doesnt look/feel like a cheap piston. It has a brand mark on the bottom. I will post up pic.

I hope it is a W

I have never done the starter mod myself But I have seen a write up on it it said all the part numbers and all.Good luck.

And acording to above you are in luck.

Measure the stroke with a cheap vernier for a ball park stoke length.

nzspokes
6th October 2011, 21:44
I hope it is a W

I have never done the starter mod myself But I have seen a write up on it it said all the part numbers and all.Good luck.

And acording to above you are in luck.

Its confirmed, the part number matches the Wiseco website as the .50 10 to 1 piston.

What is the starter mod?

husaberg
6th October 2011, 22:28
Its confirmed, the part number matches the Wiseco website as the .50 10 to 1 piston.

What is the starter mod?
This is it here I think


http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-891213.html

PS 10:1 is even better as you can stroke it without the comp going to high if you want I would Have thought it would be higher than 10;1 as they were meant to be that std.

nzspokes
7th October 2011, 12:47
So ive booked in to SME tomorrow to have the oil flinger and flywheel removed. he also thinks he knows what is up with it. Sweet.

nzspokes
7th October 2011, 18:58
So is it bad to paint an air cooled motor?

barty5
7th October 2011, 20:41
So is it bad to paint an air cooled motor?

use a high temp paint itll be fine most of the old xr's and tt's where painted from factory odds are though it will flake off unless you clean and prep really well.

nzspokes
7th October 2011, 20:58
use a high temp paint itll be fine most of the old xr's and tt's where painted from factory odds are though it will flake off unless you clean and prep really well.


Fair enough. Was just going to be something to do untill I can get the motor to SME after 1.

Would have liked to have popped in to see you but my work is to busy to get away during the week at the moment.

nzspokes
8th October 2011, 05:49
I may have found a 90s gearbox, would that fit my barrel and piston etc?

nzspokes
8th October 2011, 17:15
Righto, big day. Went to SME and Alec wipped off the flywheel super quick. But.....

The flinger we had to mount in a press and use a 6 foot bar to undo it. Over tightned much?

So just now I split the cas and found, a tooth. Not one of mine but one off a gear. Not worked out which one yet but WOOT. Found a problem. Also looks like the timing chain was working its way through the case. :facepalm:

But hopefully all easy fixes.

nzspokes
8th October 2011, 17:40
Well well well, anybody think this will buff out?

barty5
8th October 2011, 18:03
Well well well, anybody think this will buff out?

http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=187459&manufacturer=3&category=3&year=1982&model=4235


part number 10

i had few xr 200 gbox bit laying around ill have a look monday

nzspokes
8th October 2011, 18:23
Is it 3rd gear? I need to sit down and read the excellent manual XRJohnny sent me before I start pulling gears off.

But very glad I now know and that its worth fixing.:woohoo:

merv
8th October 2011, 19:17
Geez not something that ever happened to my XR for sure :shit:

nzspokes
8th October 2011, 19:20
Geez not something that ever happened to my XR for sure :shit:

Trust mine to be special. :facepalm:

husaberg
8th October 2011, 20:27
Trust mine to be special. :facepalm:

Did the guy say what the rest was like and the big end and the starter gears any marks on the outside of the crank or rod.
ps try and keep the box and the crankcases matched if pos as Honda do like to change gearbox shaft length and play around with gears.

XRJohnny
8th October 2011, 20:59
Hey Spokes, good to see you finally found the issue. Not one i,ve had myself, even though i assembled a gearbox years ago using the least worn parts out of a box of assorted worn gears. That thing lasted for many years but was finally blamed for a high reving blow-up. Turns out that the cheap aftermarket piston i had used let go, breaking its skirt & bits locking up the gearbox. Only consolation was, that i was racing a brand new RMZ250 on the beach at the time, & i was just in front!!
I heard a good old time story from back in The Day when your bike was a serious race weapon in modified form. A local character from Waipukurau called " the Dill " used to carry a spare 3rd gear in his toolbox & was prepared to change it at the track! HARD CORE.:2thumbsup

nzspokes
8th October 2011, 21:16
Hey Spokes, good to see you finally found the issue. Not one i,ve had myself, even though i assembled a gearbox years ago using the least worn parts out of a box of assorted worn gears. That thing lasted for many years but was finally blamed for a high reving blow-up. Turns out that the cheap aftermarket piston i had used let go, breaking its skirt & bits locking up the gearbox. Only consolation was, that i was racing a brand new RMZ250 on the beach at the time, & i was just in front!!
I heard a good old time story from back in The Day when your bike was a serious race weapon in modified form. A local character from Waipukurau called " the Dill " used to carry a spare 3rd gear in his toolbox & was prepared to change it at the track! HARD CORE.:2thumbsup

Ive read of the third gear issue. Wouldnt want to do it at the side of the track.

Well this motor has the wiseco piston and porting job so should have awesome power....:facepalm:

But more likely it was just old. And probably the most used gear.

nzspokes
10th October 2011, 12:44
Well picking up parts tonight. $150 for gasket set, cam chain followers, cam chain and the gear. Got to be happy with that.

Cam chains seem to an issue with them so doing it just in case.

husaberg
10th October 2011, 16:46
Well picking up parts tonight. $150 for gasket set, cam chain followers, cam chain and the gear. Got to be happy with that.

Cam chains seem to an issue with them so doing it just in case.

What was the head like Wobbly cam?

nzspokes
11th October 2011, 21:15
Motor is back together. Seems good now and no bits left over. Just need to fit CDI. and drop it in the bike.

nzspokes
12th October 2011, 17:33
Its runs!! Nice and quiet to. WOOT!!!

merv
12th October 2011, 17:44
Beautiful :woohoo:

fridayflash
12th October 2011, 18:36
phantastic news matey!!!!
....photos when its alltogether cuz!

nzspokes
12th October 2011, 20:27
Thanks for everybodys help!!

XRJohnny, thanks for the manual. I couldnt have got anywhere without it.:woohoo:

Cave Weta, thanks for the offer mate. Nothing against your product that I didnt take up your offer. It felt like a cop out for me not fixing my motor. I will probably have a chat to you about a fork and shock if they fit after Xmas. I would recommend your bikes to anybody, they sound great. :yes:

Taking it to my mates farm on the weekend to get used to it. Hes just got his 82 Suzuki TS185 going as well. Will get pics then.

nzspokes
13th October 2011, 07:06
Is it normal for them to be slow coming back down from revs? Carb seems to be returning quickly but motor takes a little while to come down from revs.

nzspokes
14th October 2011, 07:36
Found the slow rev issue, new throttle cable and its a different bike. Need to just ride it for a bit now. Off to a mates farm tomorrow. Steering is off so will lossen the clamps and try to straighten. Also need front brake cable, using bicycle one at the moment. lol.

Also what fuel should it take? im running it on 91 but should I go 95/98?

barty5
14th October 2011, 07:45
Found the slow rev issue, new throttle cable and its a different bike. Need to just ride it for a bit now. Off to a mates farm tomorrow. Steering is off so will lossen the clamps and try to straighten. Also need front brake cable, using bicycle one at the moment. lol.

Also what fuel should it take? im running it on 91 but should I go 95/98?

go for the higher octane you can get pending on where you go

nzspokes
14th October 2011, 08:20
go for the higher octane you can get pending on where you go

Ok, shes got a bit of 91 in at the moment so will grab some 98 on way to farm.

Ive read the drop valves when a bit lean so happy to have her a bit rich. Will get a new plug on way down as well.

nzspokes
15th October 2011, 15:00
Well today she got her first blast. It was so much fun!! :Punk:

Just hop on and WOT. I rode up things, down things. Im rooted now.

Only issue is a small oil leak and ropy idle. The idle seems to have a mind of its own. Feels like sometimes 1500 the 800. Must be a mixture adjustment somewhere but didnt look today as it was to much fun.

nzspokes
17th October 2011, 22:00
Question for the XR experts, I currently have a 14/50 gearing. Seems a bit high. Would a 13 make much difference?

ktm84mxc
18th October 2011, 09:23
Yes it will tighten up your ratios, it has the same effect of going up 3 teeth on the rear & it will make the bike punchier out of corners. Top speed will drop by 5-10 k's.

nzspokes
6th November 2011, 12:33
Ive just been trying to straighten the bars to the front wheel. Its just a bit out. Think its the lower clamp up by the headstock thats twisted. Can I straighten it? If so how? Our anybody got one sitting around?

merv
6th November 2011, 12:41
Question for the XR experts, I currently have a 14/50 gearing. Seems a bit high. Would a 13 make much difference?

13 tooth front sprocket was stock on the early XRs and a 14 t was good for cruising above 100km/hr on the road. Knock it back from a 14 to a 13 and you will notice quite a difference in the dirt. Those bikes could climb anything on stock gearing.


Ive just been trying to straighten the bars to the front wheel. Its just a bit out. Think its the lower clamp up by the headstock thats twisted. Can I straighten it? If so how? Our anybody got one sitting around?

Usually you can fix small alignment issues like that by loosening off the two triple clamps and then just go around the front of the bike and put the wheel between your legs and tweak the alignment by pulling on the bars. When its all about right, tighten up the clamps. You say you've done that so if it didn't work then you've probably more than likely got bents forks and not so much the lower triple clamp.

nzspokes
30th January 2012, 08:05
Dredge my own thread.

So ive been riding this old girl for a while now. Some problems have poped up.

Im thinking she needs a tear down rebuild.

Things it needs,

Rear shock rebuild
rear tyre
New pegs
Seat remade
Front brake, one that works. Mine does nothing so probably forks to
re-paint frame and swingarm

As the bike owes me $600, do I sell it and get a better bike or rebuild mine spending probably another $600 at least?

ktm84mxc
31st January 2012, 08:19
Chances are if you sell it to buy a newer model the problems you have will just appear with the new bike, just ask your self what you want it for ?
The Xr 200 is one of the most reliable off road bikes made.
If it was mine price up a second hand verses rebuilt shock
Tyres $ 120 you will notice a vast improvement in fresh rubber.
Front brake fit new shoes, check cable is it stretched? if hub is worn space the cam.
Forks new oil & seals, Home job these forks are basic.
Foot pegs are they worn or droopy ? second hand , if droopy a spot of tig weld to lift them up.
Done right the little XR will run for another 30yrs

nzspokes
31st January 2012, 08:26
Chances are if you sell it to buy a newer model the problems you have will just appear with the new bike, just ask your self what you want it for ?
The Xr 200 is one of the most reliable off road bikes made.
If it was mine price up a second hand verses rebuilt shock
Tyres $ 120 you will notice a vast improvement in fresh rubber.
Front brake fit new shoes, check cable is it stretched? if hub is worn space the cam.
Forks new oil & seals, Home job these forks are basic.
Foot pegs are they worn or droopy ? second hand , if droopy a spot of tig weld to lift them up.
Done right the little XR will run for another 30yrs

The forks fine, have done selas etc on it and it works great. Rear shock has leaked and enguages half way through its travel.

ktm84mxc
31st January 2012, 08:34
For your shock give Gaudenz Gisler a ring at Gisler Moto technic he'll be able to fix your shock and make it fit the Xr by shortening the shaft, he's in the white pages and lives in Tuakau.

nzspokes
31st January 2012, 19:27
For your shock give Gaudenz Gisler a ring at Gisler Moto technic he'll be able to fix your shock and make it fit the Xr by shortening the shaft, he's in the white pages and lives in Tuakau.

It fits ok. Buts leaking oil. My guess its dropped enough to lose dampening. Motoone reckons they can do it for $100. I think a heavier spring would be a good idea.

I also think a $60 kiwi tyre will do.

Just got to work out a bearing kit for the prolink bits.

nzspokes
15th September 2012, 09:06
So thinking about some work on my XR200 is needed. Front brakes suck. Lever pulled on hard and i can still push the bike. Its a drum so can I fit a newer model fork and front wheel with a disc? My tree is bent so wouldnt hurt to replace the lot.

Jay GTI
15th September 2012, 09:54
So thinking about some work on my XR200 is needed. Front brakes suck. Lever pulled on hard and i can still push the bike. Its a drum so can I fit a newer model fork and front wheel with a disc? My tree is bent so wouldnt hurt to replace the lot.

Might not be 100% factually correct, as it's been over 20 years since I was messing about with my old XR200, but the disk front end from the 250 was a common swap but you needed to do everything (including triple clamps). However, if you have the whole front end assembly, it's all bolt on (84 and 85 250s preferable, as 86 on the forks were longer). I seem to remember there was a little work in getting the 80's CR forks to fit, but nothing beyond a semi-competent home mechanic.

I would be very surprised if the more modern 200 front end isn't just bolt on, but presume it would require the triple clamps as well. The 250 got a fair bit of development over it's life, but the 200 didn't.

ktm84mxc
15th September 2012, 10:01
The easiest fix is to bolt the front end from a XR250 RE/RF model 84/85 yrs , some have fitted a CR front end or bolted the engine into a MX frame your choice as to how far you're prepared to go.

barty5
15th September 2012, 13:21
cr front end should fit easy i once had a xr250 frame witha xr500 worked motor stuffed in it with cr250 front and rear end bolted onto it was a mean bike in its time prick to start but when going was awesome

nzspokes
15th September 2012, 13:49
Looks like im looking for a cr/XR250 front end then. Will stalk TM for something cheap.

Rear shocks rooted to but will probably just get it rebuilt.

Jay GTI
16th September 2012, 12:40
Looks like im looking for a cr/XR250 front end then. Will stalk TM for something cheap.

Rear shocks rooted to but will probably just get it rebuilt.

Or just add a 250 rear shock to your shopping list. This time it HAS to be pre 86 though, as from that date on they are too long and won't bolt up.

Lawrence
18th September 2012, 19:07
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/other/auction-514301795.htm

XR200B is the road version with front disk.

nzspokes
23rd September 2012, 09:14
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/other/auction-514301795.htm

XR200B is the road version with front disk.

Wonder what I could get that lot for?

nzspokes
13th March 2013, 19:35
Well this little guy sold today. Bit sad to see it go. Was good fun.