The best way to tie a bike down? [Archive]

DR650gary

11th October 2011, 07:32

Handlebar bra. It is an adjustable webbing strap the slides over the handlebar grips then you attach the tiedowns to the loops on the ends. At least one more tiedown on the rear to stop sideways movement. Push the bike down hard as you adjust/tighten each front tiedown until there is no more movement down as the bike will crab with bounces it it is too loose, then drop over on you.

These seem a good package but any decent bike shop will have what you need for the same or similar money. I bought the handlebar strap for $25 from my local bike shop a year or so ago and paid about $50 ish for this combo shortly after.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/handlebars/auction-414075435.htm

been_there

11th October 2011, 13:12

+1 on what DR650gary said...
I brought the one in the link and used it when on the ferry, definitely recommend it.

Swoop

11th October 2011, 13:35

A piece of rope works fine.

So long as you are able to tie a decent knot. Rope can also come in useful for a variety of other tasks.

Wessa

17th October 2011, 09:57

Thanks for the replies and link guys.

HenryDorsetCase

17th October 2011, 11:34

A piece of rope works fine.

So long as you are able to tie a decent knot. Rope can also come in useful for a variety of other tasks.

pics or it didnt happen.

Swoop

17th October 2011, 15:29

pics or it didnt happen.
I'm afraid knot.
248734

DR650gary

17th October 2011, 16:09

I'm afraid knot.
248734

Mate, it's blue. That's a girly rope <_<

Actually, a rope will do as a last resort. Put a loop in one end, wrap the middle of the rope through a non markable and non slippable area on the bike, top triple tree or similar, run the non looped end through a ring on the trailer, through the loop and back down to the ring on the trailer and pull tight then tie off. :shutup:

But why would you?

Bra and tiedowns and you're done.

jazfender

17th October 2011, 17:43

Bra and tiedowns and you're done.

You forgot lipstick.

sinfull

17th October 2011, 17:54

You forgot lipstick.

Never go out without it !

DR650gary

17th October 2011, 18:41

You forgot lipstick.

Come on, who goes out without lipstick :facepalm:

Cary

17th October 2011, 19:25

Areofast tie downs, two for the front(attach to 'bars) one to hold the rear in place.
Any Bunnings, Mitre10, placemakers etc.

Quality items.

Swoop

17th October 2011, 19:54

Actually, a rope will do as a last resort.
But why would you?

Bra and tiedowns and you're done.
How can you use your bra to tie down a load to the pillion seat, or pitch a tent?*

*Awaits varied entertaining comments...

tigertim20

17th October 2011, 19:58

DR650gary

17th October 2011, 20:41

How can you use your bra to tie down a load to the pillion seat, or pitch a tent?*

*Awaits varied entertaining comments...

Come on, it's obvious. Attach it to your girlfriend first :innocent:

tigertim20

17th October 2011, 21:06

How can you use your bra to tie down a load to the pillion seat, or pitch a tent?*

*Awaits varied entertaining comments...

ive put a load in a bra before, wasnt quite the size of a bike though

longwayfromhome

18th October 2011, 11:31

From my experience, it depends on how far you are taking the bike, or rather, how long it is going to be tied down. The reason is, it is not good to have the suspension under heavy compression for a long period of time.

1. If you are only going to be running Akl to Hamilton or some such, OK with the advice just to tie it off or the bra.

2. If going on a full day or two, then would recommend a different approach.
a. Tie of the front wheel hard up against the front of the trailer (better still, a wheel clamp). If you do this, the bike has no fore/aft movement and the front has no lateral movement. THIS IS THE KEY TIEDOWN.
b. Tie rear of bike at rim or axle level (depends on fittings etc) left and right. This stops the bike moving laterally.

...with these two ties you have the bike secured in two dimensions totally and the bike can still use its springs.

c. Then use a tiedown left/right across the top that will stop it tipping over, like the bar bra or even a simple tie both ways to the head clamp area or some rubbing-proof area. The benefit of doing it this way is that this tiedown is only for tip-over type forces and doesn't have to be really forceful and tight, i.e. compress the suspension tightly.

I have tied down large bikes both ways and can tell you that the above method has worked for multiple days on large heavy bikes for sealed and unsealed roads. The key is tying the front tyre hard against an unshakable stop like the front of the trailer.

eldog

14th December 2016, 21:45

I want to secure the front of the bike from moving sideways during tranport

Paddock stand vs one of those pivoting clamps for locating the front wheel during transport.

any suggestions? which would be more useful.

road bike 250 kg

AND

loading and unloading a bike onto a trailer, ramps vs bike lift
bike not in rideable condition. = pushed on and off
1 person operation - all weathers, not reliant on electrickery

Madness

14th December 2016, 21:55

I want to secure the front of the bike from moving sideways during tranport

Paddock stand vs one of those pivoting clamps for locating the front wheel during transport.

any suggestions? which would be more useful.

road bike 250 kg

Fairings - https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7TD2NNWH/title/torpedo7-tie-downs-with-harness
No fairings - https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7TD2N1TD/title/torpedo7-tie-downs-2-pack
Bugger using a paddock stand but a front wheel chock would be an option although not neccessary, providing you use the tie-downs properly.

loading and unloading a bike onto a trailer, ramps vs bike lift
bike not in rideable condition. = pushed on and off
1 person operation - all weathers, not reliant on electrickery

Ramp, long enough that the angle is manageable in relation to the height of the trailer.

Gremlin

14th December 2016, 22:30

I once transported a bike on a paddock stand inside a trailer... rolled over on the first decent corner. First and last time I ever did that.

Front wheel chock definitely. Depends on how you're transporting. A trailer and it can be as simple as rolling into the corner, or a couple of angle pieces of timber either side of the front wheel. For my van I've got wheel chocks bolted to sheets of ply that I slide into the van. You get several versions, I've got the SCA one (older silver version of this: http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/SCA-Motorcycle-Wheel-Chock-Multifit/320957) which allows the chock to change size for the size of the front wheel.

The likes of Cycletreads also has smaller ones (more like loops) and can quick lock into place on stubs. A few other styles available worldwide.

As for ramp, I use a bi-fold aluminium ramp rated for 340kg. You definitely don't want anything under 2m for a typical load height of 600-700mm. Folding means you don't have to store an enormous ramp but more expensive than a plank of wood. Be careful of the cheap ramps not being rated for heavy road bikes (cheap ones are usually 100-150kg rated).

As for single handed loading, I can load the CB919 and others without power with a run up (don't fuck it up) but no way can I load the GSA (240-270kg) single handed without the engine running. Too big, too heavy etc. Practise also helps especially if you're loading the same bike over and over.

eldog

15th December 2016, 06:30

R650R

15th December 2016, 12:03

Not knowing your setup, firstly is your deck clean? It doesn't take much in the way of smalls tones or gravel under even normal freight for things to move around with vibration, even strapped in.
Taken a few bikes in truck as general cargo, the bestway was always parked on its sidestand (triangle of stability) if had the space. Tiedown pulling back and one pulling forwards and a gentle strap over seat was plenty.
Front wheel moving suggests its trying to rotate due to uneven restraint loading.

Gremlin

15th December 2016, 12:18

Taken a few bikes in truck as general cargo, the bestway was always parked on its sidestand (triangle of stability) if had the space. Tiedown pulling back and one pulling forwards and a gentle strap over seat was plenty.
I never tie down to the stand as often the stand isn't designed to take that load (similar reason BMW says don't sit on the bike with it on side stand for my GSA). In same cases like MV, the side stand is attached to the crank case... it breaks and it's a major...

Autech

15th December 2016, 13:54

I never tie down to the stand as often the stand isn't designed to take that load (similar reason BMW says don't sit on the bike with it on side stand for my GSA). In same cases like MV, the side stand is attached to the crank case... it breaks and it's a major...

+1

I've heard of a sidestand breaking once along with someones beloved bike.

Racing Dave

16th December 2016, 09:25

road bike 250 kg

I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.

manxkiwi

16th December 2016, 09:55

I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.

This is similar to my set up. Blocks on a plank to stop the bottom of the fron wheel bouncing sideways. I loop my strops over the lower triple clamp inside the fork leg (sports bike). I find this to be an excellent way to secure the front. Of course it totally depends on the type of trailer and where the tie down points are on said trailer.

Gremlin

16th December 2016, 10:24

I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.
Just a couple of notes (not that you don't have experience). I've seen hooks unhook from the trailer, say, when the trailer goes over a bump. The bike moves, one strap loosens which allows it to unhook, and over your bike goes. For similar reasons I also go around fully once (handlebar, fork leg etc) before strapping.

Ocean1

16th December 2016, 16:27

I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

Nice machine mate, have been keeping an eye out for something similar...

Swoop

16th December 2016, 19:29

I've seen hooks unhook from the trailer, say, when the trailer goes over a bump.

Another vote for The Rope option then!
:Punk::shifty:

eldog

16th December 2016, 19:36

I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.

Just under:apumpin:

trailer will be cleaned by me, as I am hiring it.
retained front wheel is the go.

manxkiwi, I will try this as it seems like the best way, but I don't know until I get the trailer and see what I can do.
trailer is being supplied with some ramps so that will be another experiment, not videoing that one.

Gremlin, yes I have seen those smaller tie downs without the second closed clasp (I use the 2.5tonne ones at work regularily) come loose if just hooked onto a rail. Prefer looping around rail and onto itself or wrapped again and back to itself just in case the suspension moves with bumps etc.

will try and stand bike up, that's why I asked about paddock stand:weird:
so may get a overcentre clamp that I can put on the trailer, without any holes etc. it's a rental.

thanks for the advice....:niceone:

eldog

16th December 2016, 19:41

Another vote for The Rope option then!
:Punk::shifty:

I never could tie a rope, but I did learn how to tie a rope with a particular knot which when pulled in the right spot would come undone easily. Remained steadfast otherwise. It was a knot used by merchant seamen, but I have forgotten.:facepalm:

used to see lots of knots years back on trucks etc, but very little now.

eldog

16th December 2016, 19:45

I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.

forgive my ignorance but is that one of those speedway bikes or the event rock climbing types.

ocassionally see the rock climbing(I don't know what to call it) on TV from Europe, found it quite enjoyable to watch:niceone:

husaberg

16th December 2016, 19:59

Hello All,

I need to trailer my mint z1000. What is the prefered method for tying the bike down without rubbing etc from ties?.

Where is the best place to buy the ties?.

Thanks all.. :drinknsin

Use motorbike tie downs they have a loop
https://cdn.touratech-usa.com/c/w_1000,h_1000/180714-Ancra-34-x-34-series-11-4-34-Cam-Buckle-Tie-downs-Tie-Down-XC108-2P.jpg
also buy one of these
http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mEBc6adhtcOYd_zRIPr5Xrg.jpg
They are usually called seal savers.
less than $20 at torpedo 7 etc.

here you go $30 for both
https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7TDCNNTS/title/torpedo7-mx-tie-down-and-fork-support-combo
326830

flashg

16th December 2016, 20:55

Use motorbike tie downs they have a loop
https://cdn.touratech-usa.com/c/w_1000,h_1000/180714-Ancra-34-x-34-series-11-4-34-Cam-Buckle-Tie-downs-Tie-Down-XC108-2P.jpg
also buy one of these
http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mEBc6adhtcOYd_zRIPr5Xrg.jpg
They are usually called seal savers.
less than $20 at torpedo 7 etc.

here you go $30 for both
https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7TDCNNTS/title/torpedo7-mx-tie-down-and-fork-support-combo
326830
Husaberg you're losing it mate, those fork braces are for dirt bikes only. They go between tyre and mud guard before you tighten the strops, the OP has a mint Z1000, no room for those on a road bike. [emoji41]

husaberg

16th December 2016, 21:35

Husaberg you're losing it mate, those fork braces are for dirt bikes only. They go between tyre and mud guard before you tighten the strops, the OP has a mint Z1000, no room for those on a road bike. [emoji41]

Youre right.
Why is it you would need to trailer these road bikes for.........
Do they not ride them on the road anymore.:facepalm:

Swoop

17th December 2016, 15:03

I never could tie a rope, but I did learn how to tie a rope with a particular knot which when pulled in the right spot would come undone easily. Remained steadfast otherwise. It was a knot used by merchant seamen, but I have forgotten.:facepalm:

used to see lots of knots years back on trucks etc, but very little now.

Yup. Anything with a ratchet tensioning system is essentially a "rope with an L-Plate".:laugh:

Gremlin

17th December 2016, 19:10

will try and stand bike up, that's why I asked about paddock stand:weird:
so may get a overcentre clamp that I can put on the trailer, without any holes etc. it's a rental.
Here's a shot from the BMW in the van. BMW recommends tying above that triple clamp. It locks the front into place, but still allows the suspension to move and work. Pay attention in closed trailers and vans etc that you have clearance between the top of the screen and the roof as the bike will rise over crests etc.

For the rear, the subframe or such like. I compress the suspension some, to stop it moving, but it will still move over sharper bumps (damn I hate those elongated humps in busy areas, they make some excessively sharp). With straps looped etc they slacken and tighten with the bike still safe.

98tls

17th December 2016, 19:18

Fwiw on a 1/2 faired bike why not a rod/with nut down the hole in top triple with a loop at bottom to attach bungy hooks,no rubbing fairing at all.

eldog

17th December 2016, 20:42

I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.

TRIALs

must improve skim reading:doh:

thanks for info O1

yeah always something I liked to watch....

chock is the way way to go.

check out bike setup tomorrow. Trailer becomes available Wednesday latest I hope.

i usually take the road bike husa, but taking a bit too much crap on this one.
bike will do the 1500 k trip once I drop the weight off. Haven't done much riding of late due to work and crap weather etc. looking forward to getting trailer ready and setting off.

hope this trailer trip goes better than last one, must check spare tyre, lights, rego, wof, wheel nuts and retainer chain.:facepalm:

old slider

20th June 2017, 12:33

as pictured will be fine mate248817248816248815

Lol, are those pics the typical roadside assist method?

I am looking at a getting decent wheel chock for transporting the Fat Bob, yes I know its a Harley, but the time will come , maybe in the next 40,000kms where it will come in handy.
Any recommendations on a decent chock (van or trailer use) for its 130/90 x 16 inch front wheel.

FJRider

20th June 2017, 13:21

I never could tie a rope, but I did learn how to tie a rope with a particular knot which when pulled in the right spot would come undone easily. Remained steadfast otherwise. It was a knot used by merchant seamen, but I have forgotten.:facepalm:

used to see lots of knots years back on trucks etc, but very little now.

The trucker's hitch is a good one to use ... simple as.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNWELuXo_bY

old slider

20th June 2017, 16:45

The trucker's hitch is a good one to use ... simple as.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNWELuXo_bY

Knots I am ok with, spent several decades commercial fishing, so have 1 or 2 that will do.

I really need a good sort of wheel chock that can be used in a van or on a trailer, adjustable to use on smaller wheels and wide enough for say a 130-140mm tyre.

HenryDorsetCase

20th June 2017, 17:38

Knots I am ok with, spent several decades commercial fishing, so have 1 or 2 that will do.

I really need a good sort of wheel chock that can be used in a van or on a trailer, adjustable to use on smaller wheels and wide enough for say a 130-140mm tyre.

https://www.dold.co.nz/Products/Ventura/Bike_Stands/Bike_Stands.aspx

I have one of those and it is brilliant in the workshop or on the trailer.

old slider

20th June 2017, 18:21

https://www.dold.co.nz/Products/Ventura/Bike_Stands/Bike_Stands.aspx

I have one of those and it is brilliant in the workshop or on the trailer.

Awesome, thanks for that info mate.

Gremlin

20th June 2017, 18:47

https://www.dold.co.nz/Products/Ventura/Bike_Stands/Bike_Stands.aspx

I have one of those and it is brilliant in the workshop or on the trailer.
Dunno if that's adjustable for the wheel diameter?

I have this one (yee gads, red, I got my 2 when they were grey): http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/SCA-Motorcycle-Wheel-Chock-Multifit/320957

Wait for a special though, I've bought when 40% off ish. These ones are more for mounting somewhere than sitting on the garage floor.

old slider

20th June 2017, 20:47

Dunno if that's adjustable for the wheel diameter?

I have this one (yee gads, red, I got my 2 when they were grey): http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/SCA-Motorcycle-Wheel-Chock-Multifit/320957

Wait for a special though, I've bought when 40% off ish. These ones are more for mounting somewhere than sitting on the garage floor.

They look ideal Gremlin, thanks mate.