New bike. What should I expect?

[stifmyster1]

Im picking up a new GT250R hopefully on the fourth or fifth of November.

Problem is I'm going on a 1000km ride 2 weeks after that. So i realised i need to make sure its run in before then. I've seen multiple guides on "Breaking in" but they aren't consistent. My first plan was simple to ride to the Coromandel and back to wear it in but after some research found that isn't such a good idea.

1. Essentially what should I do in the first 1000km in order to have it ready for good solid riding. Some guides say baby it for 50km then hit 100 for 20 then baby it till 100 then do an oil change. is this correct.

2. I've also been told that new tires are "oily" and to be careful on them. How long should it take to get them nice and good and what should i do to help the process?

when you reply say 1. if its about the engine stuff and 2. about the tires so i can sort them easier.

[nzspokes]

New tyres will need to be scrubbed in over about 50ks.

For motor, follow what Hyosung say. They made it. They should know.

[stifmyster1]

when you say scrubbed in what do you mean?

[AllanB]

You want the engine to run through quite a few heat cycles during the run-in period - don't just head out for a big long ride.

And vary the engine speed - up and down through the gears with varied speed - as in don't just sit on 100kms per for km after km racking up the miles.

And don't baby the engine - you'll be better off revving it a bit than lugging the engine around at low rpms.

Ask the bike shop what they recommend <_<

[nathanwhite]

when you say scrubbed in what do you mean?

LINK (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=scrubbing+in+motorbike+tires)

[Hitcher]

Don't listen to the pussies. Wring its neck off. Aspire for the red line at all times. An engine revving flat out maximises the viscosity of the oil, making sure that it gets to the top of the engine where it will do the most good. The faster that fuel flows through injectors, the cleaner they'll be. Don't worry about the tyres. Reduce the recommended pressures by about 10psi and that will increase the surface area available for grip. If you're revving the shit out of the engine, that should result in great momentum through corners. The heat that the softer tyres generate should expand the remaining air contained within them, bringing them back to the right pressure after a decent set of corners.

Never read the instruction manual or use the search facility on this site. Life's too short and a manufacturer's warranty will cover most of your learning experiences.

[pete-blen]

just keep loading the motor.
up and down though the revs
with out over reving it... If yer
treat it to nice you can risk
glazzing the bores...

just keep in mine the makers
aire on the side of saftey..they foot the bill
for any claims...

[Big Dave]

Don't listen to the pussies. ----snip--- learning experiences.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/AmD8y0PJ2Vo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Berries]

1. Essentially what should I do in the first 1000km in order to have it ready for good solid riding. Some guides say baby it for 50km then hit 100 for 20 then baby it till 100 then do an oil change. is this correct.

2. I've also been told that new tires are "oily" and to be careful on them. How long should it take to get them nice and good and what should i do to help the process.
1. Follow what the dealer or the manual says. Ignore all the other shit that gets posted, even from those who should know better.

2. If you follow a run in procedure it shouldn't matter. But don't nail it out of the shop, especially if it is wet.

[bluninja]

1. Choose if you wish to follow the manufacturers advice, or some other run in method. Your bike, your money. I'd treat the first 1000kms as getting to know your bike. Just make sure that you don't slavishly stick to the rev limits to the detriment of actually keeping your awareness on road and traffic.


Remember that as well as the tyres you're bedding in the brakes, so initially you won't have top brake performance or grip until tyres and brakes are settled.

Above all have fun and enjoy having a new one.

[stifmyster1]

ok thanks guys. Im thinking of just being out on the roaddoing at least 100-200 km for the first weekish. essentially ill try and get the first service at 1000km down before the group ride.

[reggie1198]

ok thanks guys. Im thinking of just being out on the roaddoing at least 100-200 km for the first weekish. essentially ill try and get the first service at 1000km down before the group ride.

Best advise I was ever given regarding the running in of a bike was to avoid the motorway, it's better to load the engine using the terrain on SH16 (heading north) than a couple of trips via the M/W.
I've had 4 brand new bikes in 10 years and every one has been as sweet as a nut after a proper run in.

Enjoy

Reggie

[MSTRS]

1. Wait till after 1000km before you ride it like you stole it, but don't be a nana, either. (Avoid the extremes in the rev range - redline and lugging.)

2. Scrubbing tyres consists of gradually increasing the lean angle (both sides, of course) over the first 100kms or so.

[steve_t]

Ooh. A break in thread. Haven't seen one of these in ages :shutup:

Most importantly, let us know when you get to 1000km and someone here can show you the special KB wave :innocent:

On a serious note, 1, I'm a fan of the motoman's break in (you can google it). Warm up for 10 mins of easy riding, then vary the RPM and load as much as possible while avoiding the redline. Change the oil frequently as they'll be heaps of metal shavings in the oil to start with. But as said, it's your bike

2. Tyres should be pretty much good to go after the first 50-100km. Everyone expect michelin stopped using a mould release compound back in 2006. Any antioxidant coating should wear away pretty quickly.

Obviously, ride safely and within your limits esp for the first few rides, and ENJOY :sunny:

[stifmyster1]

sweet. now i just need to check that im allowed to change the oil. was told any servicing has to be done by hyosung or voids warranty. not sure if that includes changing oil. probably does. hopefully its not to expensive