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Monstaman
14th November 2011, 07:31
Morning gents..

Was on the OMCC Back Of Beyond ride on Saturday when the cush drive hub bearing decided it didn't wonna come on the rest of the trip.

No warning whatsoever until we left Ranvegas and there was a squeal and small rumble, thought it flicked a stone in and out cos it all went quite.

Turned off into Loop road to St Bathans ..... BANG, squeal, grind, metal on metal sound then quiet so we carried on to St Bathans were I noticed my chain was suddenly loose, kicked the sprocket to find her floating quite a bit so knew then that things were not well and I had found my noise.

Tipped the bike over onto the RHS and poured so oil into the hub to ease the pain and see if it would get me home, well we carried on to Omakau then Thompson Gorge, just getting into Tarras and it squealed badly and started binding then slowing the bike down from trying to seize.

So slowly as she goes and roll into Tarras to meet up with the road crowd.

The bearing had destroyed itself COMPLETELY and derailed itself so you could see the rubbers etc ... so 31 km from home it was 0800wifeandtrailer

This may be old news to many but just check them, I checked mine only 3 weeks ago after the track day when I changed my motard wheels off and back the adv wheels and everything was in order then (or so I thought)

Few pics of what did carry on for the rest of the ride, gonna keep an eye out on tardme for other half of the bearings so I can weld them back together :laugh:

cromagnon
14th November 2011, 07:39
I had the same thing happen above hanmer on thursday last week, see post #64 on this thread: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/130246-Maling-Pass-Track-Access-RR/page5

My chain completely came off and did a lot of damage to the hub so will need to be replaced.

cold comfort
14th November 2011, 08:25
Totally awesome last pic in the series there. It really went the distance! Gotta give you some confidence of your chosen mount for the great expedition (and knowledge of a possible Achilles heel). Manged to chuck the Tiger in a river eventually so now need to swap the water for oil etc. All good fun. The Tiger is a bitch to get at to empty the cylinders out. Very grateful for Richard, Doug, and the comprehensive socket set of passing 4WD!

Monstaman
14th November 2011, 08:50
. Managed to chuck the Tiger in a river eventually so now need to swap the water for oil etc. !

Was that on the Nevis part on your way home Mark? ...any pics of the said incident?

Squiggles
14th November 2011, 09:27
I've had one that ended up like that but it took alot longer to reach that stage, now have a spare incase I need it (hopefully not!)

Transalper
14th November 2011, 11:09
So am I correct in thinking the wheel is still held in place but the cush drive with sprocket attached floats around rubbing on things when this happens?

cooneyr
14th November 2011, 11:20
So am I correct in thinking the wheel is still held in place but the cush drive with sprocket attached floats around rubbing on things when this happens?

I'm guessing yes! Problem is it's not just rubbing but chewing of swing arm etc. Keeping the sprocket in the same place relative to swing arm is kinda important!

Phreaky Phil
14th November 2011, 11:29
Ive had that happen too. If your rear sprocket isnt solid i reckon you could wire through the sprocket to the spokes with locally donate fence wire and ride it. I just rang the wife and waited 2 hours for her to come get me. Luckily I was on the main road, so was easy for her to find me

cromagnon
14th November 2011, 11:40
I'm guessing yes! Problem is it's not just rubbing but chewing of swing arm etc. Keeping the sprocket in the same place relative to swing arm is kinda important!

I think the chain guard (top) and chain guide (bottom) kept the sprocket itself away from the swing arm so nothing was chewed there, the cush drive wasnt physically able to move to completely disengage from the wheel hub but the sprocket was able to move a lot and twist. There is quite a bit of minced bearing fragments everywhere now too.

Monstaman
14th November 2011, 11:55
If I had carried on it would have trashed the swinger and surrounds, the seal collar has taken a beating but will survive with some TLC and time, seal on mine is a non event and is probably evenly spread out between Ranvegas and Tarras.

All in all I pretty much got as far as a I could short of costing a fortune.

Mr.Suzuki want $45 for the bearing and $10 for the seal, the seal collar is not available here unless I want it ex Japan hence I will show mine some luvin.

Toddys did 40000km before tossing it in, depends on how much water it sees I guess.

GPS MAN
14th November 2011, 12:14
After the looks of your pics...I'll mosey out to the shed and have a look at mine:no:

Good luck on your BIG trip next year! :banana:

pete-blen
14th November 2011, 12:29
If I had carried on it would have trashed the swinger and surrounds, the seal collar has taken a beating but will survive with some TLC and time, seal on mine is a non event and is probably evenly spread out between Ranvegas and Tarras.

All in all I pretty much got as far as a I could short of costing a fortune.

Mr.Suzuki want $45 for the bearing and $10 for the seal, the seal collar is not available here unless I want it ex Japan hence I will show mine some luvin.

Toddys did 40000km before tossing it in, depends on how much water it sees I guess.

yer not really going to get a berring from japan....
suzuki buy there berrings & seals... just like you can...
that berring in the pic is a ...
62xx or 63xx ... this is how the berring numbers work....
6 = deep groove ball race...
2 or 3 = berring OD
xx = ID.. IE 05 = 25mm ID / 06 = 30mm ID / 07 = 35mm ID etc etc etc
give me the ID & OD I will tell yer what it is... or
look on the side of the outer race the numbers marked there...

once you know the number go to a berring out let... they will
hand yer one straight off the shelf....

A deep groove roller berring is the most common berring known to man...

any berring starting with "7" is a angler contact...
any berring with the number ending in "K" has a tappered bore
those berring that fit the cast or pressed steel houseings are "Y" berring in either
grub screw or cam loc..

Monstaman
14th November 2011, 13:12
yer not really going to get a berring from japan.....

You are right I'm not.

Wanaka Tractors have both in stock $30.00 plus GST for both, next door neighbour works there so he is bringing it home... perfect.

Just gotta re-machine the spacer / seal collar so it still seals :niceone:

Edit, for anyone wanting / needing to replace them the bearing is a std 6205, 52 OD x 25 ID x 15 wide, seal is std 52 OD x 30 ID, nothing flash and available anywhere basically ... even in Wanaka .....how ironic at Wanaka Tractors :devil2: :bleh:

cromagnon
14th November 2011, 14:27
Just looked on procycle and they have Cush Hub Bearing & seal set for $14.95 as a new item.

Woodman
14th November 2011, 20:07
same happened to me a couple years ago, had to trailer home etc. KLR has a similar set up. My sprocket nuts ate a nice groove in the swing arm and the bearing spun in the housing and ate the hub right down to the circlip.
Loctite and the spacers, without the circlip have held it in ever since, occaisionally i have to re-loctite a new bearing in but has been fine, although I am waiting for a new hub to arrive from ebay.
I'm a bit paranoid about wheel bearings so i carry a set in my toolkit all the time now just in case. Poss over the top but getting trailered home was not a good look.

Aslan
14th November 2011, 20:15
thanks to Andi - and all those who posted on this important topic - I'll be checking this bearing on my DR before heading South for the DB1K - cheers S

warewolf
14th November 2011, 21:32
Bit of Loctite 641 Retaining Compound (http://au.iloctite.com/en/loctite-641-660-635-638-680-620-668-603-609-648-retaining/19) might help and/or add some peace of mind. I used it all the time for the bearings in my DR-Z250.

NordieBoy
14th November 2011, 21:34
Poss over the top but getting trailered home was not a good look.

But they did have beer...

NordieBoy
14th November 2011, 21:36
Around $100 for a complete set for the DR.

hondav2
14th November 2011, 21:38
Mine was still going but getting worn at 40,000 miles , suzuki bearings only have a seal on 1 side but aftermarket bearings are sealed both sides , water is the biggest killer of bearings . The bearing in the sprocket will fail long b4 the other 2 bearings because it has a lot more load on it compared to the hub bearings. :bleh::bleh::bleh:

warewolf
14th November 2011, 22:26
Disc side bearing seems to be the problem one for me. I suspect because heat from the disc melts the grease - which then worsens the effect when it's dunked in cold water. Wheel bearings only spin at about 1/10th their rated max rpm at around 100km/h, so they (or their grease) aren't being stressed by that.

JATZ
15th November 2011, 03:09
I hope Wonka Tractors gave ya a good trade in price for the old bearings ? :rolleyes:
Just out of curiosity, what size are the other bearings in the back wheel ? Does the 650 have 3 bearings the same size ?
I get all my seals and bearings from Multiparts except for one on the front of the Big, which suzuki want $80 for :eek:

Monstaman
15th November 2011, 07:21
I hope Wonka Tractors gave ya a good trade in price for the old bearings ? :rolleyes:
Just out of curiosity, what size are the other bearings in the back wheel ? Does the 650 have 3 bearings the same size ?
I get all my seals and bearings from Multiparts except for one on the front of the Big, which suzuki want $80 for :eek:

Toddy says they are all the same size which makes it easy, I can't confirm that however, seems the sprocket hub bearing is the one with the load on him.

I was gonna replace the lot but the two wheel bearings feel as good as new with no movement so they can stay there.

marks
15th November 2011, 07:37
same happened to me a couple years ago, had to trailer home etc. KLR has a similar set up. My sprocket nuts ate a nice groove in the swing arm and the bearing spun in the housing and ate the hub right down to the circlip.
Loctite and the spacers, without the circlip have held it in ever since, occaisionally i have to re-loctite a new bearing in but has been fine, although I am waiting for a new hub to arrive from ebay.
I'm a bit paranoid about wheel bearings so i carry a set in my toolkit all the time now just in case. Poss over the top but getting trailered home was not a good look.

your problems remind me of a computer tech's acronym - PICNIC

Problem In Chair Not In Computer




that poor bike

NordieBoy
15th November 2011, 08:56
Toddy says they are all the same size which makes it easy, I can't confirm that however, seems the sprocket hub bearing is the one with the load on him.

I was gonna replace the lot but the two wheel bearings feel as good as new with no movement so they can stay there.

2 x 6204
1 x 6205

NordieBoy
15th November 2011, 08:59
your problems remind me of a computer tech's acronym - PICNIC

Problem In Chair Not In Computer




that poor bike

PEBKAC - Problem Exists Between Keyboard and Chair.

I've got a badge that says - "Every day, computers make people easier to use".

Monstaman
15th November 2011, 09:42
2 x 6204 1 x 6205

There you go.

Are they physically different sizes or what is the difference Nordie?

JATZ, they said they were out of warranty so they could not verify their condition without testing so no trade :no:, I did say well these two half bearings have been opened but nup they wouldn't budge, their loss :laugh:

NordieBoy
15th November 2011, 11:53
Are they physically different sizes or what is the difference Nordie?

Same thickness but the 6205 has a larger inner and outer diameter.

pete-blen
15th November 2011, 12:46
Same thickness but the 6205 has a larger inner and outer diameter.

most common bike wheel berring sizes...

6202 = 15 x 35 x 11
6302 = 15 x 42 x 13

6203 = 17 x 40 x 12
6303 = 17 x 47 x 14

6204 = 20 x 47 x 12
6304 = 20 x 52 x 15

6205 = 25 x 52 x 15
6305 = 25 x 62 x 17

Monstaman
15th November 2011, 14:05
most common bike wheel berring sizes...

6202 = 15 x 35 x 11
6302 = 15 x 42 x 13

6203 = 17 x 40 x 12
6303 = 17 x 47 x 14

6204 = 20 x 47 x 12
6304 = 20 x 52 x 15

6205 = 25 x 52 x 15
6305 = 25 x 62 x 17

Great info thanks Pete

Hope this helps many others who may inadvertently have a dud on the way without realizing it.

richyrich
15th November 2011, 17:07
Totally awesome last pic in the series there. It really went the distance! Gotta give you some confidence of your chosen mount for the great expedition (and knowledge of a possible Achilles heel). Manged to chuck the Tiger in a river eventually so now need to swap the water for oil etc. All good fun. The Tiger is a bitch to get at to empty the cylinders out. Very grateful for Richard, Doug, and the comprehensive socket set of passing 4WD!

good to see you got back home,