Just bought some new boots; Dubbin, was he pulling my left one?

[Crim]

G'day
Just bought some new boots - Forma Adventure :woohoo: that I have been lusting after for a year or two (took me that long to convince 'er indoors and they were on special) anyway was talking to the salesman and said that I intended dubbining (is that a word?) them when I got home, he reckoned that Dubbin rots the stitching and that I should use a special ($40 a can) spray.
Was he pulling my left one?

[FJRider]

I'm betting Dubbin has been aroung longer than HE has .... I've used it (Still DO) ... no issues ...

[tri boy]

I use bees wax on my Forma boots, (well, did for the first 3years till I got lazy).
A well respected boot maker up this way suggested it.
No stitch rot.

Ihave heard a tale about dubbin and stitch rot.Think it was more related to the type of stitch material.

Side note on the Forma's.
The inner materialat the back of the heel area will eventualy start to fail.
Use of a shoe horn, or bread knife to assist fitting the boot may help.

Good solid boots.
Go get them muddy.

[Eddieb]

side note on the Forma's.
The inner materialat the back of the heel area will eventualy start to fail.
Use of a shoe horn, or bread knife to assist fitting the boot may help.



My Alpinestar Tech 3's did that after about 2 years also.

[FJRider]

+1 for Bee's wax ... good stuff ...

[unstuck]

+1 for beeswax. Sno seal is another good product.:niceone:

[pete-blen]

yes bees wax..all I have ever used on my tramping boots..
Its also natures wonder lube..cutting discs/drilling/lathe/mill

[NordieBoy]

Bone Dry NZ is a good one too.
I got the "Bikers tub".

[MSTRS]

When stitching thread was made of cotton, Dubbin had a rep for rotting them.
Don't think it's a problem these days.

[Haggis2]

[QUOTE=pete-blen;1130196453]yes bees wax....
Its also natures wonder lube..

Wonder lube you say.... :facepalm:

[TOTO]

yea I wouldnt use dubin too. Snowseal wax is the best (same as bees wax).

[mazz1972]

G'day
Just bought some new boots - Forma Adventure :woohoo: that I have been lusting after for a year or two (took me that long to convince 'er indoors and they were on special) anyway was talking to the salesman and said that I intended dubbining (is that a word?) them when I got home, he reckoned that Dubbin rots the stitching and that I should use a special ($40 a can) spray.
Was he pulling my left one?

Hubby had some of these and they shrunk big time after getting wet and drying out so waterproofing the outer is a good idea. They have a drytex lining so shouldn't leak....at first anyway.

Be warned the soles are very thin on these boots...especially around the area of the arch of your foot.

[wysper]

I have just gone BACK to using dubin. Used to use it on sports boots, soccer, hockey and the like for fricken years. No rot.
I dont think that it will rot your stitching. Stitching is different now anyway.

Clean your boots. Dubbin or bees wax 'em and off ya go.

Got sick of all the fancy expensive new shit not working as well as the old cheap stuff!

[p.dath]

++ to bees wax, like SnowSneal.

[Paul in NZ]

It depends... (re hashed from internet)

Dubbin manufacturers instruct users to pay partiular attention to stitching, but the theory is that the amino acids in the animal fat encourage growth of anerobic bacteria which feed on cellulose structures (like cotton stitching) causing the stitching to prematurely age. The arguement is that synthetic conditioners don't do this.

This happens in the laboratory but its harder to find is translation of these results to the "real world" where people have had direct experience of this occurring. In real world terms this stuff is often used to soften leather, thats why you use sparingly, if you use too much it softens so much the leather tears. It also coats the stitching and waterproofs it, this is important for boots and saddles as they get wet daily.

Being organic - if you leave Dubbin on leather for say 3 months without use, it will grow a mould, this is why you always wash of the old and renew. Also if you store the gear, wash it with saddle soap and then treat it with an oil based leather protector, this also prevents the green mould from forming.

So yes it can rot, but done correctly it won't rot.

[HenryDorsetCase]

When stitching thread was made of cotton, Dubbin had a rep for rotting them.
Don't think it's a problem these days.

my understanding too. footwear thread will be nylon these days.

[pete-blen]

[QUOTE=pete-blen;1130196453]yes bees wax....
Its also natures wonder lube..

Wonder lube you say.... :facepalm:
:( :bleh:

[That looks like fun]

Step 1, Heat the boots before you treat them :yes: Sit them out in the sun or in front of a heater (not if they are wet though :facepalm:)
Apply your poison (dubbin, bees wax, sno cote, whatever) and allow the boots to cool :cold: Repeat this over a period of days until the boots will absorb no more :oi-grr: then buff them until dry and shiney :woohoo: No rot mold or worrys as the pores, joins, stitching etc are sealed but not clogged :sick:
Step 2, apply dirt :scooter:

[Hitcher]

Erm, why don't you buy boots with a proper Goretex liner? This may be a bit more expensive than plain leather but it sure saves a lot of farting around and your feet will always be dry and sweat free.

I've never had wet feet while riding a motorcycle, and I've never used Dubbin(TM), bees wax or any other boot salve or unction. Maybe a bit of Nugget(TM) when they get a bit soiled and scuffed.

[CrazyFrog]

Erm, why don't you buy boots with a proper Goretex liner? This may be a bit more expensive than plain leather but it sure saves a lot of farting around and your feet will always be dry and sweat free.

I've never had wet feet while riding a motorcycle, and I've never used Dubbin(TM), bees wax or any other boot salve or unction. Maybe a bit of Nugget(TM) when they get a bit soiled and scuffed.

Erm, you don't ride offroad or thru rivers then.........:facepalm:
I'm yet to meet an offroad rider who's feet don't stink from sweating after a day in boots, and no amount of Goretex is gonna fix that. Gran's remedy maybe.......

[Hitcher]

Erm, you don't ride offroad or thru rivers then.

No, but I'm happy to participate in two experiments:

For the first I will stand for a few hours in water that comes almost to the top of my boots. I predict that my feet will remain cosy and warm for the duration.

For the second I will pour water into my boots and then measure how long it takes to wick out through Mr Gore's exceptional product. I haven't done this one, so I'll also be interested in the results.

I've worn Goretex boots for days at a stretch in temperatures in the high 30s and low 40 degrees. Sweat? Of course. Dampness? No. Aroma? No.

I'm sure that it's possible to buy Goretex-lined offroad boots. I'm also sure that they will behave vastly better than a pair of Johnny Rebs doused in animal fats or waxes.

[bart]

My boots are magic. I get within 20 yards of a puddle/stream and my feet are wet. I'm sure they have a built in reservoir. :laugh:

[NordieBoy]

I'm sure that it's possible to buy Goretex-lined offroad boots. I'm also sure that they will behave vastly better than a pair of Johnny Rebs doused in animal fats or waxes.

I use BoneDryNZ stuff on my goretex boots.
In cold wet conditions, goretex boots will keep your feet dry, but they'll still get cold as the leather has absorbed water which can freeze. With the extra waterproofing, the leather gets the chance to act as an insulating layer.

In wet weather adventuring, I use goretex boots with BoneDrynz waterproofing and goretex socks.

Belt and braces taken to the next level.

[cooneyr]

Step 1, Heat the boots before you treat them :yes: Sit them out in the sun or in front of a heater (not if they are wet though :facepalm:)
Apply your poison (dubbin, bees wax, sno cote, whatever) and allow the boots to cool :cold: Repeat this over a period of days until the boots will absorb no more :oi-grr: then buff them until dry and shiney :woohoo: No rot mold or worrys as the pores, joins, stitching etc are sealed but not clogged :sick:
Step 2, apply dirt :scooter:

What he ^ said. I heated a pair of heavy duty leather alpine climbing boots in the oven, heated a can of nikwax on the stove and slowly applied the whole can's worth. This was about 13 years ago and I've not done anything to them since. Boot leather is still soft and water proof. Pity the soles are trashed. Good hack around boots and a hellva lot more comfortable than the identical pair I replaced them with a couple of years ago.

Did the same to my Tech 3's but I think the mud, really really sweaty feet and poor maintenance (put them away wet occasionally) is why the leather is starting to look a bit sad after 3 years.

Cheers R

[Crim]

:facepalm: bought the Adventure (after years of lusting after a pair) cos they were brown and every other boot on the market is black, anyway after a liberal coating of beeswax based stuff I now have a pair of very dark brown/black adventures - hopefully they will fade or dry in and get back to brown - anyway still comfy and hopefully more waterproof than a really waterproof thing now

[Box'a'bits]

:facepalm: bought the Adventure (after years of lusting after a pair) cos they were brown and every other boot on the market is black, anyway after a liberal coating of beeswax based stuff I now have a pair of very dark brown/black adventures - hopefully they will fade or dry in and get back to brown - anyway still comfy and hopefully more waterproof than a really waterproof thing now
Fear not, they'll back to brown in no time.

My wife didn't actually realise that mine were naturally brown until a wee while ago - she just thought I didn't look after them.... :facepalm:

[clint640]

Erm, why don't you buy boots with a proper Goretex liner? This may be a bit more expensive than plain leather but it sure saves a lot of farting around and your feet will always be dry and sweat free.

I've never had wet feet while riding a motorcycle, and I've never used Dubbin(TM), bees wax or any other boot salve or unction. Maybe a bit of Nugget(TM) when they get a bit soiled and scuffed.

I'm pretty sold on Goretex lined footwear after a great run out of my Meindl tramping boots, but the selection of decent offroad boots with Goretex is limited & prices start well north of $500. When Dr Shoe finally tells me to piss off & take my buggered Stylmartins to the dump I might have to bite the bullet & get some Sidi Adventures, but $800 !!!! :shit:

I've always used lashings of Sno-Seal on all my leather stuff, including my tramping boots, with good results.

Cheers
Clint

[warewolf]

I've never had wet feet while riding a motorcycle, and I've never used Dubbin(TM), bees wax or any other boot salve or unction.You need to get out more. :sunny:


For the second I will pour water into my boots and then measure how long it takes to wick out through Mr Gore's exceptional product. I haven't done this one, so I'll also be interested in the results.It will take your body a long, long time to raise a bootfull of water to boiling point... Micro-pore membranes don't wick unless they are fcuked.

My winter gauntlets have gore-tex or similar lining, get sno-seal beeswaxed, sometimes sno-seal HD siliconed as well, and if I'm going to be out in the rain for long, washing up gloves over the lot. :Punk:

Boots used to get rubber overboots - always 100% waterproof until you drag them through corners too often - but these days I just do the poor man's trick of wearing bread bags over my socks inside my boots. Warm if sweaty feet.

[almoto]

i am a old goldminer...




take sardines in oil

eat sardines

oil onto boots

[Crim]

take sardines in oil

eat sardines

oil onto boots

I am not a seafood eater, in actual fact, I would go as far as to say that I would rather poke myself in the eyes with rusty nails than eat the sardines - interesting idea with the oil though...................
Update my boots are now back to brown :woohoo: and still very waterproof :woohoo: just wish that work would allow me to test the bally things more than once every three weeks!

[Transalper]

....just wish that work would allow me to test the bally things more than once every three weeks!

What's happening there then?
I can't remember what you do... if I ever knew.

[whatastoner]

If anyone wants to have dry feet all the time, check out uscav.com
I bought all my goretex socks jackets and pants there. Still work fine after 14 years.

[almoto]

I am not a seafood eater, in actual fact, I would go as far as to say that I would rather poke myself in the eyes with rusty nails than eat the sardines - interesting idea with the oil though...................
Update my boots are now back to brown :woohoo: and still very waterproof :woohoo: just wish that work would allow me to test the bally things more than once every three weeks!

Other fish but sardines?

Do you mean that they have other sorts of fish for sale in shops these days?

[almoto]

Ok then...

Its like oil changes in your engine
Whatever you put on...as long as you put it on often...
and the easier it is to do the more often it is done.



The best is to have two sorts of treatments:

Liquid stuff (leather oil...from saddlery)
Solid stuff (sno seal. dubbin, beeswax, nordie stuff etc.)

For weekly fast easy maintanance: Liquid stuff...put on with paint brush, takes 1 minute, soaks straight away all trough leather. lasts for one rain ride...(=easy to do all the time)

For winter and longer trips : Solid stuff...heat boots a bit, heat solid stuff in hottish water, put stuff on, keep boots warm to let soak in...lasts through a few rain rides...(=takes time)


Never let boots dry out completly (especially in front of fire)...leather will go hard and crack with (first) use...put stuff on when boots are half dry.
Better to keep boots slightly wet (and supple) til you get home than boots being dry and cracked (vugged).
Boots also shrink when totally dry (no oil...)...they stretch again when soaked in water and being worn...(put oil on before completly dry).

And stitching these days doesnt rot anymore...that was in the old days with cotton stitching...and stuff like Neatsfoot oil...now that stuff use to rot stitching.

For on road maintanance: 'Favoured food in oil'