How to improve headlight output?

[nzspokes]

My CBX has a crap headlight. So I want to make it betterer. Im open to all ideas. Only issue to swapping the whole light is that the main loom wiring connectors sit in the light but I could make a little box for it.

Ive double light sets, are they legal and any good?

Will look at the output of my wiring but the bike charges and starts well.

[FJRider]

What wattage bulb do you have NOW. What is the maximum the manufacturer states should be used on YOUR model.

There are bulbs available now that have a claimed increase in brightness ...

AND speak to an auto sparky.

[nzspokes]

What wattage bulb do you have NOW. What is the maximum the manufacturer states should be used on YOUR model.

There are bulbs available now that have a claimed increase in brightness ...

AND speak to an auto sparky.

50/55 I think. But its dull. Will be checking connectors etc on the weekend. But one intresting thing with my bike is it has no earths to the frame. So was thinking a more modern reflector would be better. My bike has a H4 8" car headlight.

[Latte]

50/55 I think. But its dull. Will be checking connectors etc on the weekend. But one intresting thing with my bike is it has no earths to the frame. So was thinking a more modern reflector would be better. My bike has a H4 8" car headlight.

The square or round headlights are a fairly generic size, you can typically find a hella/similar alternative that fits in the same bucket and give improved performance. I know even new bikes like the speed/street triple some owners swap them out for aftermarket lenses.

I'm in the process of fitting buell headlights to my bike (dual round) , and with some cheap mods to the high/low configuration should have some good cheap headlights (the unit is ~$200 brand new, just fab up some cheap ally mounts).

[FJRider]

50/55 I think. But its dull. Will be checking connectors etc on the weekend. But one intresting thing with my bike is it has no earths to the frame. So was thinking a more modern reflector would be better. My bike has a H4 8" car headlight.

You think ... ???

Which part of ... "Speak with an Auto-spary" ... is not understood.

His advice is usually free .. and can test (Your bike)for most (if not ALL) of the information you require... quickly ...

[nzspokes]

You think ... ???

Which part of ... "Speak with an Auto-spary" ... is not understood.

His advice is usually free .. and can test (Your bike)for most (if not ALL) of the information you require... quickly ...

Changed it a few weeks back, cant remember if it was 50/55 or 55/60.

Auto sparky not open now and its all about me. :wings:

[nzspokes]

The square or round headlights are a fairly generic size, you can typically find a hella/similar alternative that fits in the same bucket and give improved performance. I know even new bikes like the speed/street triple some owners swap them out for aftermarket lenses.

I'm in the process of fitting buell headlights to my bike (dual round) , and with some cheap mods to the high/low configuration should have some good cheap headlights (the unit is ~$200 brand new, just fab up some cheap ally mounts).

Have see some dual rounds on TM for about the same money. Have been thinking along those lines. But a Hornet light also looks like it would fit.

[FJRider]

... and its all about me. :wings:

honda riders .... :no:

[nzspokes]

honda riders .... :no:

Chronic insomniac as well. I live on a few hours sleep a night at times so to much sare time to think. :facepalm:

[Latte]

Have see some dual rounds on TM for about the same money. Have been thinking along those lines. But a Hornet light also looks like it would fit.

I was going to go aftermarket but forum posts etc have stated the light output is better from the buell setup. And they do look better imo (especially with the oem screen etc). Although the aftermarket ones have been designed as universal so have as an easier mount setup when doing custom.

[nzspokes]

I was going to go aftermarket but forum posts etc have stated the light output is better from the buell setup. And they do look better imo (especially with the oem screen etc). Although the aftermarket ones have been designed as universal so have as an easier mount setup when doing custom.

So the Buell ones you got are new?

I can make mounts.

[hayd3n]

i wouldent get a factory hornet headlight they are shit
id know
im concidering a glass lens as the ploycarbonate ones are crap and limit my output

[pete376403]

Wire the lights with a big fat wire direct from the battery, using relays to do the switching. Solder the connectors. Proper earths back to the frame. It's not hard, you just have to think about it a bit.

Voltage drop through the standard weedy little wires and handlebar switch blades is taking energy away from the lights

[Latte]

So the Buell ones you got are new?

I can make mounts.

Yarr, give a harley dealer a call. I bought the screen and some of the mounts for $400 all up (with the headlight).

I can rustle up the specific part numbers, but if you google buell headlight conversion you'll find em pretty quick.

There's a thread on here from someone going from Hornet to Buell headlights, did a good job.

[nzspokes]

Wire the lights with a big fat wire direct from the battery, using relays to do the switching. Solder the connectors. Proper earths back to the frame. It's not hard, you just have to think about it a bit.

Voltage drop through the standard weedy little wires and handlebar switch blades is taking energy away from the lights

Bladdy good idea. That I can do.

[DrunkenMistake]

i wouldent get a factory hornet headlight they are shit
id know
im concidering a glass lens as the ploycarbonate ones are crap and limit my output

Yeah,
mines a fucked up set up when you look at it,
its like riding with a bloody candle..

[nzspokes]

Wire the lights with a big fat wire direct from the battery, using relays to do the switching. Solder the connectors. Proper earths back to the frame. It's not hard, you just have to think about it a bit.

Voltage drop through the standard weedy little wires and handlebar switch blades is taking energy away from the lights

So 2 relays, one for dip and 1 for main? What amp relays would I need?

[Blackbird]

Try Osram Nightbreaker bulbs as your first step - hassle free and inexpensive. Same wattage, better light output. I fitted them to the Street Triple and the improvement was huge. http://www.osram.com/osram_com/Consumer/Automotive_Lighting/Products/Headlights/NIGHT_BREAKER_PLUS/index.html. Bought mine from Autobulbs direct in the UK http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/H7-Osram-Night-Breaker-90-12v-55w-bulbs-NEW-pair.html but they might be available in NZ

[vifferman]

In both the VF500 and VTR1000 I owned, I left the standard headlight shell in, but uprated the bulb (55/80W) and wires, and used relays. it worked brilliantly well, as both had good reflector shapes. It's important though that the connectors are kept clean and are a tight fit, as any corrosion in the connections leads to much resistance and heat.

[Spearfish]

Wire the lights with a big fat wire direct from the battery, using relays to do the switching. Solder the connectors. Proper earths back to the frame. It's not hard, you just have to think about it a bit.

Voltage drop through the standard weedy little wires and handlebar switch blades is taking energy away from the lights


+1 and a :niceone:

Plus you can gain some watts at the front by changing the rear tail to leds.

Big fat wires in short runs makes a difference to a 6v candle...


So what's this 12v thing I,ve been hearing about?

[nzspokes]

So as suggested on the weekend I will be rewiring the headlight direct from the battery and using relays to switch the light on. Then I hope to run a more powerfull bulb.

[Subike]

I fitted twin 75mm aftermarket lights to my XS1100 Yamaha,
Have a look at my profile and access the pic album to see what the "look"" is like.
The second pic shows the twin light set up on one bike
beside the std headlight set up on the same model bike
I used the bum bag under the lights to hold the wiring.
This whole set up including the bullet indicators was done for under $300.
All items were available in NZ via trade me, 3 years ago,
http://www.google.co.nz/search?q=streetfighter+headlights&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=QNI&sa=X&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=1X3UTtPVNIKUiQeV58GGAQ&ved=0CEcQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=685
Prices might have increased since then.
I have had no worries or questions lof legality for WOF checks
Time taken to fit and wire up, 3 hrs. Im not a sparky
It was a bolt on conversion that utilized the origination mounting ears from the factory square single lamp.
The lights run 65/80w bulbs .
I have wire them up via two 30amp relays and fed the relays directly from the battery.
Relays and terminals were Hella from a local auto electrician retail shop
I crimped all the terminals, as soldering tends to break with vibration over time on vehicles.
Properly crimped joints are what the factory wires use , not soldered.
To elevate the current drain on the alternator, I only run one low beam light, left side.
I find this is more than enough for night riding around town,
On the open road, the twin 80w high beam lights give more than enough definition when riding at legal speeds.

[MarkW]

The bike in question is a 1986 CBX250.

It is unlikely that the alternator output will be adequate to run 2 80 watt highbeams, a tailight, instrument lights, the coils, plus a pair of indicators whilst braking for an upcoming corner on the open road.

The standard wiring is 25 years old and was adequate when new. Time, which means corrosion and the odd loose connection will mean that what was adequate 25 years ago may well be struggling now.

So question 1 - what is the actual output capability of your charging system?

Having found this out you shouldn't exceed this output by too much or the battery will keep going flat.

Concentrate on getting efficiencies in output rather than just burning more watts.

So - standard wiring from 1986 has the wiring to the headlight running from a power source (battery)into the headlight on/off switch first, then into the high low switch to be sent to the right filament before earthing back to the battery.

All wiring plugs need to be corrosion free AND so do the faces (contacts) on the switches. After 25 years of use the switches are not likely to be that flash.

Re wiring the existing headlight using a pair of relays (one for high beam and one for low beam) won't be hard or expensive - keep the power feed lines as short as possible.

Changing the lens to a more effective motorcycle unit may then help as well - better using the existing output.

But the bike is 25 years old and a 250 as well - lighting systems for bikes of that age and size were never super flash - as the bike was not intended to be used as a long distance high speed night tourer.

So, if you don't want to spend a fortune - keep what ever you do simple and straightforward - and you may have to accept that being able to read a book 70 metres from your motorcycle may not be achievable. And at 100kph 75 metres is the minimum safe distance to stop, including reaction time.

MarkW

[Subike]

The bike in question is a 1986 CBX250.

It is unlikely that the alternator output will be adequate to run 2 80 watt highbeams, a tailight, instrument lights, the coils, plus a pair of indicators whilst braking for an upcoming corner on the open road.

The standard wiring is 25 years old and was adequate when new. Time, which means corrosion and the odd loose connection will mean that what was adequate 25 years ago may well be struggling now.

So question 1 - what is the actual output capability of your charging system?

Having found this out you shouldn't exceed this output by too much or the battery will keep going flat.

Concentrate on getting efficiencies in output rather than just burning more watts.

So - standard wiring from 1986 has the wiring to the headlight running from a power source (battery)into the headlight on/off switch first, then into the high low switch to be sent to the right filament before earthing back to the battery.

All wiring plugs need to be corrosion free AND so do the faces (contacts) on the switches. After 25 years of use the switches are not likely to be that flash.

Re wiring the existing headlight using a pair of relays (one for high beam and one for low beam) won't be hard or expensive - keep the power feed lines as short as possible.

Changing the lens to a more effective motorcycle unit may then help as well - better using the existing output.

But the bike is 25 years old and a 250 as well - lighting systems for bikes of that age and size were never super flash - as the bike was not intended to be used as a long distance high speed night tourer.

So, if you don't want to spend a fortune - keep what ever you do simple and straightforward - and you may have to accept that being able to read a book 70 metres from your motorcycle may not be achievable. And at 100kph 75 metres is the minimum safe distance to stop, including reaction time.

MarkW

You make some very good points Mark.
All valid and really worth consideration.
I agree the prognosis of all the terminals and block connections being aged, dirty, electrolysis setting in etc.
I think of that very issue when ever rebuilding or customizing a ride, I always replace all connections with new unit, and dismantle switches for proper cleaning. Quite amazing what sort of crud can get in there over the years.
I also agree with you on the point of replacing the headlight unit with a new one, reflectors tarnish over time,
No matter how strong the bulb is, it just cannot throw the light,
A new reflector and or lens may be all that is needed in most situations, yet often overlooked.

[sugilite]

I know there is a HID conversion kit available for my old clunker, maybe there is for your bike as well?

[nzspokes]

The bike in question is a 1986 CBX250.

It is unlikely that the alternator output will be adequate to run 2 80 watt highbeams, a tailight, instrument lights, the coils, plus a pair of indicators whilst braking for an upcoming corner on the open road.

The standard wiring is 25 years old and was adequate when new. Time, which means corrosion and the odd loose connection will mean that what was adequate 25 years ago may well be struggling now.

So question 1 - what is the actual output capability of your charging system?

Having found this out you shouldn't exceed this output by too much or the battery will keep going flat.

Concentrate on getting efficiencies in output rather than just burning more watts.

So - standard wiring from 1986 has the wiring to the headlight running from a power source (battery)into the headlight on/off switch first, then into the high low switch to be sent to the right filament before earthing back to the battery.

All wiring plugs need to be corrosion free AND so do the faces (contacts) on the switches. After 25 years of use the switches are not likely to be that flash.

Re wiring the existing headlight using a pair of relays (one for high beam and one for low beam) won't be hard or expensive - keep the power feed lines as short as possible.

Changing the lens to a more effective motorcycle unit may then help as well - better using the existing output.

But the bike is 25 years old and a 250 as well - lighting systems for bikes of that age and size were never super flash - as the bike was not intended to be used as a long distance high speed night tourer.

So, if you don't want to spend a fortune - keep what ever you do simple and straightforward - and you may have to accept that being able to read a book 70 metres from your motorcycle may not be achievable. And at 100kph 75 metres is the minimum safe distance to stop, including reaction time.

MarkW

Good points. I had an issue when I first got the bike with the electrics that turned out to be the pulse generator. So every connection in the system has been cleaned. Im not expecting a mini Gremlin machine just to be able to see better. The relay idea is a good cheap option and will be most probably the best outcome.

But dont forget the mighty CBX250rs is a rocket ship.........

[swbarnett]

I dare say you've got the same issue I had on my previous bike - CBX550 of the same year as your 250. I had to slow right down in the twisties at night as I couldn't see where the corner went. All I did was replace the standard bulb with a +50 from Repco. About $20 or so from memory. Still not the brightest but certainly solved the corner visibility issue.

I've done the same with my dual headlight Katana and, while they might not be as bright as Gremlin's GS (that thing would rival a military search light!), they've certainly added a fair distance more visibility.

[ynot slow]

Any auto sparky will have H4 PLUS 80 BULBS around $40 each,they don't fry the wiring and are what I'd try first,I put H7 PLUS 90 in my bandit worked ok on both full and dip.

[JustNick]

You're all thinking too logically. What you need to do is attach a large spotlight to the top of your helmet. A bit like a miners lamp :corn:

[Spearfish]

You're all thinking too logically. What you need to do is attach a large spotlight to the top of your helmet. A bit like a miners lamp :corn:

Like this one?

http://www.eders.com/products/primos-15-million-candle-power-rechargeable-spotlight.html

Why not glue two on?

[Paul in NZ]

To check if its going to be worth wiring in the relays (which it will be but best to be sure)

Make up a fused fly lead from the the battery long enough to reach the headlamp. (hot side of the bulb.) Turn on the light and touch the hot fly lead onto the bulb connector - if the light gets brighter its worth doing.