Shafty's USA Ride Report, Route 66 and beyond - caution long, with pix

[shafty]

After much planning, and the counting of days til we leave Bahrain after a 2 year stint (sentence?) Jude and I finally flew in to Washington DC as the start of our USA Adventure - riding Route 66 with some Kiwi Mates.

The time had finally come!

It was great to immediately see the favourable change in culture versus Bahrain – no thobes or Burkhas to be seen anywhere, a fraction of the number of Airport officials, and the ones we did deal with were very professional and courteous

We grabbed a cab to our pre booked Motel – a forty US dollar ride later we were in Motel Super 8 Manassas which was comfy and after some checking of e-mail etc, Jude was very soon ZZZZZZ just after dark.

Tues 19th July
We grabbed a Hyundai rental from Enterprise Car Hire – they even picked us up - $48 plus insurance for the day, collected by Brad, saved UNTOLD taxi $$ searching 3 major bike shops: It was great to be able to drive freely – Bahrain is only 32 miles long and an island, so nice not to be cooped up for a change.

We’ve used our Garmin GPS in 5 countries so far, and again it was invaluable navigating us stress free around Washington as we visited 3 decent sized Bike shops nearby.

We were after riding shoes and a mesh jacket for Jude, which we found.

We sorted a Verizon phone from a Target store, (thanks KB Mates for advice on this) just $20 includes a nice Samsung Camera phone and $10 in prepaid airtime, plus I sorted a USA plug for our multi-box so we have the right power plugs for mobiles, camera’s, NoteBook and GPS charging.

Jude had to jet home for a funeral – I was staying on in the US to pick up the bike from West Virginia and relocating it to Chicago where she will rejoin me and 4 Kiwi Friends to, firstly, celebrate her big “0” birthday, then to start Route 66.

Wed 20th
Up early and checked out to find and hit the Dulles (pronounced Dallas) Airport Enterprise Rentals yard – SUCCESS! Found it easy, (Google/GPS) and free shuttle back to airport – just saved 40 Bucks.

Geez talk about a dodgy old twin prop plane, well due for retirement but it got me to Beckley, WV – about an hour’s flight away, where I was collecting a silver ST1300 from my new friend Joe.

I met Joe online when he was seeking a “bike swap” to tour NZ on. Joe rode my red ST around the North and South Islands in Feb ’11, so it was was great to meet him in person, he’s a lovely Guy, a retired Mining Engineer, and we had a great chat about all sorts.

I also met Charlie, a friend of Joe’s who is resting up at Joes with a broken leg after a slow speed tip over of his C90 Boulevard. Charlie is 67 and can’t wait to get back on it.

After lowering the (non electric) screen, hooking up the GPS and loading the panniers and top box, we enjoyed a home cooked meal of Pinto beans, fried spud, corn on the cob and pork chops and corn bread, washed down with a couple of beers and a good chat. I grabbed an early night, for “Tomorrow, I Ride.”

Thurs 21st
After a shower and 2 coffees I hit the road an hour earlier than my target of 9.00. Great to be back on a Pan Euro, - I was enjoying the comfort and power, this is touring First Class. The GPS took me to the route North east Joe had recommended, it was working real good the way I set it up, with the unit sitting in the clear top pocket of the tank-bag and a power lead exiting to a cigarette connection in the fairing glove-box, and with a simple earpiece to my ear, obviously. Nice and clear. – Bluetooth would be nice, but this was working fine.

I had the best part of a week to get to Chicago, so had decided to head to Carlisle, Pennsylvania where they were holding a Bike Fest.

I loved the beautiful lush green scenery and some amazing bridges over valleys which seemed a mile deep as I was leaving Beckley, - I was on the super-slab to Covington to get things cracking, then joined the beautiful 2 lane Route 220 heading North West, with mile upon mile of tree lined and green canopy covered roads, sweeping nicely through the curvy countryside, through gorgeous USA towns with their trimmed lawns and patriotic flags, - this is as good as it gets. Plenty of gas and food options everywhere.

I saw a couple of dead deer on the roadside – reiterating not to ride in to the evenings and also early mornings – you don’t want to hit one of those suckers on the bike.

I passed a couple of ideal looking Motels, with food and a beer handy, but it was too early to stop riding – or was it? Read on, lesson learn’t…

I stumbled across a mega sized Walmart in the middle of nowhere so grabbed a cool drink, some AC and 2 cheap ($10) sports bags to organise the panniers better.

After straying off route a couple of times (I was following an easy route so didn’t bother with the GPS but got tripped up at a couple of weird intersections) I was getting pretty close to Pennsylvania. I had about 450 miles to do over 2 days but had done 400 this day, and not all in a direct line! Oh well. I did ride far too late into the day and with temps topping out at 104F, it was starting to swelter, not good for hydration or concentration, let alone comfort.

I found a town where the Welcome Centre was locked mid afternoon! No motels in others, one motel in Bedford with no one on site, make that 2, ……..Eventually found a motel in Bedford PA for $28 plus tax! Quite a good one too. No dinner, just rehydration drinks – not even a beer – must be a dry county. The GPS of course has the option to locate the nearest (listed) motels nearby, which is a fantastic aid.

Sorted bags and relaxed, had a great sleep.

[shafty]

Fri 22 Jul
A later start today, even tho I was awake and up by 6am (body clock) – check out is an indulgent 11am here, and accommodation is pre booked at Carlisle, with just a short 88 mile or so hop, so a good chance to do blog stuff etc

Mr Garmin took me directly to my pre-booked Motel 6, and after cooling down and a swim, I rode to the BikeFest nearby. Free entry was a bonus. There were some people on the gate and I asked what the story was about parking, One shouted 8 Dollars. Yeah right, and I rode in. Seems no one else was paying, maybe she was referring to Overnight RV parking?

I was impressed with the huge Kenworth type rigs the big bike brands bring to these things – nothing like it in NZ, Victory, Star (Yammie), Kawasaki and Vulcan (Kawa Cruiser brand) were represented in the big rig league with many many spanking new demo bikes to ride.

There was a track set out for stunting, assorted fast food options (yuk) and LOTS of iced water being sold as it was 100F and everyone was melting. I found no area which was air conditioned, it was all under the vendors own tent shade or open barn shade with fans blowing everywhere.

Lots of custom gear and bikes on display, mobile dyno’s, 3 or 4 tattoo set ups and a several yard sale type stalls selling old/used bike stuff.

One Harley Dealer had made a huge commitment by moving around 100 bikes there for sale in a separate barn area – a big job – hope it works for them, 95% of the Fest was geared toward the Cruiser market. I really felt sorry for the Vendors who were not seeing their fair share of public attendance due to the extreme temps, and had to sit in the heat all day themselves to try and make a buck.

People all over were literally pouring water over themselves to try and beat the heat. The Fest would be the perfect opportunity to compare new Cruisers if you were in the market tho.
I bought a couple of patches to put up in my garage which made me smile:

I was stunned to see, and photographed, some KKK Badges for sale with SS type insignia WTF
Retreated to the Motel for some AC with a couple of Bud’s (Weisers) and ordered pizza .

Saturday 23rd
Up and off earlyísh – 0730, - as I was firing up the ST there was a commotion at the adjacent block of Motel units and I was told separately by 2 ecstatic Guys that one of their Mates had just won the lucky draw prize from the Fest, a Boss Hoss and $180,000 cash, if it was to be believed – they were certainly excited.

Took a couple of snaps of pretty Carlisle then hit the road, temperature was low 70’s (F), nice.
I saw an Amish horse and carriage trotting along the road – looked NEAT! If it wasn’t so early I would have (should have) ridden back down the road to take a photo of them passing – too early to stop I told myself…..lesson learn’t.

Intent on clocking some miles up today to more than split the 1/3rd distance to Chicago. I ate 100 miles on the Interstate before stopping at Donegal PA for a drink and a peach pie (Yum! – my 1st pie in USA)- before getting myself in a bit of a GPS loop.

After since Googling a Garmin tutorial I can see how it happened, and although I didn’t cover a huge misguided distance – I certainly saw some interesting back roads. I expected to hear the plucking of banjo’s a couple of times. The Garmin is sitting in the top of the tank bag and I listen via an earpiece, being careful not to be tempted to look at the screen while moving.
I occasionally hit the bottom right “Next turn” prompt button to hear His Masters Voice tell me where the next turn is – a bit like with a small child, I get suspicious when things go quiet.

Sometimes it may be “Proceed 157 miles then turn right” so it is a long time between phrases. Anyway, with gloved hands it is a fine line getting the exact contact patch on the touch screen, and touching the map itself prompts a VIA point……you can see where I’m heading. When I heard, in the middle of narrow farming roads, “Ärriving at Area” the penny dropped, oh well, LOL, Fun to look back on and as I say, saw some neat back roads and rural areas.

And some dodgy ones 
After trawling thru the picturesque Pittsburgh, (love those bridges) I stopped at a Burger King for a cold drink, bathroom and AC, once again it was sweltering by lunchtime. Pulling the map out and comparing the GPS I momentarily freaked out to see I was heading back into West Virginia!! WTF?

Then looking at the big picture I see the northern tip of WV comes up way further than I thought – PHEW Gassed up $20 then….

I decided enough was enough when I got to Canton and after walking away from one Motel inspection, I was delighted to find a Budget style motel called Towne Manor, and just $44.75 a night with wifi.

Turned out to be a flea pit with filthy towels, and in a decidedly seedy neighbourhood, as evidenced by the clientele at the nearby Check Cashing Store – I felt like I had tumbled in to a re run of Hill Street Blues, those baggy pants the young Guys wear around their knees must cause some back problems later in life surely – the way they swagger along – at least I could out run the 2 dodgy looking Guys following me from the Grocery store if need be I thought, LOL - Oh well, it’s just one night lol, another lesson learned! Plus I clocked 300 + miles, great.
Bought some fresh bread rolls and tomatoes for dinner.

Sunday 24th
It rained overnight so Joes bike has had its first wash  but it was fine the next morning as I rode to Farmer Boy’s for brekkie – a popular place on a Sunday morning, plenty of American pickups parked outside, – am loving the friendly service at these type of places.

Overnight I had programmed the GPS to stay off Interstates as I wasn’t enjoying the buffeting at highway speeds and am missing the electric screen button at such times, but am enjoying seeing the sights as I take to more local roads.

I also changed the gps voice to English Female – yesterday’s Guy was in disgrace! A few hours later I found myself thinking “I wonder what she is wearing?” Sad, lol, but Judy arrives tomorrow to join the trip.

Aiming for Rochester tonight with temperatures much nicer today – I have taken to wearing a tank-top under my jacket – seems to be much cooler than a T Shirt . Saw some amazing wind turbines – they never look as big in your photo’s as they are in real life huh?

Lots of long flat roads, but nice and smooth – making good progress. Encountered a couple of patrol cars amongst the smaller towns – they are quite easy going huh? Not that I am pushing it, but in NZ 103 KM/hr gets a ticket in a 100 km/hr (open road) area. As one American Guy said at a Service Centre “That’s a Profit Centre right there”

A patrol car followed me in to Edgerton, Man 25 mph is slow huh? I found some unused ratio’s in the ST’s gearbox, lol Gassed up here, $25.66 – am pleasantly surprised by the petrol prices – I’ve dumped 60 bucks in the Pan Euro in NZ.

Lots of bikes out today – Sunday Riders I’d call them, all on Cruisers, mostly Hardley’s although I have seen some spunky Jap Cruisers out too VTX1800’s, Roadliners etc – nice. Not a helmet in sight, mostly jeans and t shirts and some without shirts. I feel like a freak wearing “protection”!

More beaut small US towns today, beautifully trimmed lawns, glistening white weatherboards and the US flag proudly flown – looking great Guys!
Bed tonight was the Best Westie Kendallville, not a cheapie but some comfort to average out last night – and enjoyed a lovely meal and glass of wine at Applebee’s across the road. This a great value chain of Restaurants – and most importantly, licensed.

Monday 25th July
Up at 0530, complimentary breakfast went down well after taking some photo’s of the fog – yes fog! It cleared to a beaut day and on the road to Goshen having reprogrammed Ms Garmin for Interstate inclusion.

Stopped at Walmart here for some new sunglasses, and got to see the Amish horse and carriages up close in the undercover parking Wally’s obviously provides for them. Later I saw one leaving the carpark – intriguing and bizarre all at the same time. Obviously there were some Amish inside shopping and quite distinctive in their white bonnets and 1980’s spectacles.
A nice clean run through to the Interstate then munched some easy miles – am thinking of raising the screen a bit as I am finding myself slouching to avoid the wind stream and buffeting, but not too bad today and nice temps too – around 80F.

I am quite amazed at, and love, the speeds that are acceptable here – with 75mph being what you do to keep up with the big rigs, I even clocked a heavy haulage tow truck, with a Kenworth size tractor unit under tow getting along at 75 (120 km/hr).

I also came up behind another bike on the freeway – most unusual, haven’t seen many bikes at all there, - anyway this Guy was on a CBR900RR complete with extended swing arm (as ya do) sitting on 75mph with no helmet, just a T shirt and long shorts with the wind billowing the shirt up around his neck. He looked a bit like Tom Cruise actually which would make sense in a weird sort of a way!

Ms Garmin was behaving great, taking me on toll road after toll road (often called Turnpikes), and lining up the lanes and exits perfectly. The toll roads seem to be less busy and devoid of Cops, so distance is covered faster for some reason. The closer I got to Chicago the busier the roads were obviously, going from 3 lanes each way to 4, 5, 6 - and this was a nice gradual process so as not to freak out the Boy from Matiere (population 34).

Even when traffic got thick, I found the US Drivers to be focussed, safe and polite – esp when compared to NZ and to Bahrain where I’ve spent the last 2 years dodging crazy drivers.

Arriving at our Motel 8 right on time at 12.30, a quick unload in to our ground floor room, then off to The Zone Kawasaki/Honda Shop to buy some riding shoes and drool over the new GL1800’s and assorted Cruisers. Great service here, good prices and range of bikes and product,and a free T shirt, nice. I’m just awaiting the rest of the Crew to arrive now – and my Wife Jude back from a quick NZ trip……

[shafty]

The Crew arrive – firstly Jude, then Graeme and Janice who were travelling by rental car.

Sue and Kev (of Moto TT Track day fame) end up in a bad bad part of town from taking a fellow travellers advice on using the train, hence I get a text saying “HELP”- come get us…. Not helped by using NZ phones, we headed toward them with a Cabbie who had his takeaways spread out on the front passenger seat – classic - then just before rescuing our Fellow travellers from what they expected as an impending mugging I got a text to say they had found a cabbie who had finally agreed to bring them to us. I've never heard Kev sounding so serious!

Soon enough all three Couples were enjoying a reunion drink in our motel room, all keyed up to start the adventure.

Tuesday 26th July

Jude’s 60th Birthday today so some special stuff lined up, but first we collect the rental GL1800 from The Zone in Bridgeview – the shop where I was yesterday – English Billy Connolly and his entourage had visited here just a couple of months ago as a matter of interest.

We deliver the bikes back to the motel and jump in a waiting people mover to zip into the city for an awesome Segway tour of the waterfront – an awesome experience we all agreed – and wow, what a beautiful city! If you haven’t tried a Segway tour – do it – they are awesome, easy to use and great to cover ground while having fun, this was a real highlight for us.

Home for some free time til we are collected by a stretched limo which we took back into, and around the city enjoying some bubbly, then into the fun part of the city for a brilliant dinner at Fred’s restaurant, - recommended! Jude had a brill birthday and loved the gold necklace I’d bought in the Bahrain Gold Souq a few weeks earlier.

Wed 27th
We allowed for a quiet start to the first road day, taking into account possible trepidation from the newly arrived Kiwi’s, so around 10.30am we headed off with co ordinated GPS’s and a place to meet should we get split up, - which comically happened almost instantly, lol, but clear thinking by all soon had the bikes reunited in Wilmington, and we hooked up with the “Mother Ship” – Janice and Graeme in the Corolla, soon enough.

We passed thru Dwight, starting to pick up the Route 66 trail, passing wind turbines looking so majestic, then stopped at Odell and their lovely preserved/restored gas station. After a good look around and requisite purchasing of souvenirs for the garage, we moved on as 20 – 30 Norwegian Harley Riders arrived complete with support van and trailer (what are they for?). It reminded me of the advice Kev was given when picking up the Goldwing – Ït’s a Honda so don’t worry about checking the oil”.

We then enjoyed the lovely town of Pontiac, which features a Route 66 museum and took the photo opportunities the rear of the courtyard backdrop museum offers, then on to Carlingville for lunch. This town features a town square and many beautifully preserved buildings – think tall red brick commercial buildings, and towering pillars adorning the courthouse. On thru the corn and bean crops to Springfield Illinois stopping in a Motel 6. Sue was under the weather so a dash to a pharmacy for some ‘”get well “stuff. Taco Bell dinner 200 metres away for the rest of us.

Thursday 28 th July
After packing the bikes – getting easier all the time, with dedicated bags and a bit of a system going by now, we popped next door to a quaint café a few steps away for a “dinkum “American breakfast then on the road. It was a very warm day with the temps accelerating thru the 70’s > 80’s > 90’s > then over 100. We managed to find some interesting ‘loops ‘of Route 66, the brick road was an irresistible photo stop, as was the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge – or the Bridge to Nowhere as we called it – great stuff.

We passed some Segway tourists here – way to go.

Soon enough we had stopped in a small settlement called Halltown where we saw some ancient shops, then arrived at Gay Parita where the most beautifully preserved Sinclair Gas Station is a must see. Old Timer Gary, a former Route 66 Person of the Year, gave us many laughs with his antics. We left him some NZ souvenirs, and bought some local ones. Photo opportunities were everywhere with open workshops sporting cars, trucks and even a gas tanker of the era – you really did feel as though you’d stepped back in time.

After more following the elusive trail that is sometimes Route 66, we finally arrived in St Louis and trolled thru the heat and the stop/start traffic lights in the burbs of the sprawling city – in retrospect a different gps setting would have avoided the sweltering heat by keeping to the free flow of the I/State but hey, we are learning as we go.

We were seriously uncomfortable in the heat by now, and poor Sue was quite ill, so we quickly sought and found AC and iced water then booked in to the closest Hotel we could find – the Drury Inn – and a good choice it was with a 5.30 “kick back “(free drinks and food) free wifi, pool and brekkie.
After a nice dinner at the neighbouring Ruby Tuesdays it was bed and ZZZZZZZZZ.

Fri 29th July
Early start, Sue decided a day in the car was wise til she feels better, so we up and were off.
Stopping at a Hyosung Shop for a gander where we met with more great friendly service, admired the bikes, checked out the mesh jackets (mine had proven too hot) photographed the 1963 Honda (CT?) 90 on display with 1100 miles on the clock beaut, and exchanged some small souvenirs with the friendly Dealer. We then pressed on toward Lebanon.

I had a very near miss on a quiet part of Route 66 where I came up behind a stationary red pick up in my lane. I gave him a good blast on the Stebel to let him know I was there. His brake lights were on, no turn signals. Continuing to approach him under brakes, I signalled and started to pass him, when he started to turn left! I counter-steered hard left, under brakes and got another blast of the stebel in.

He must have seen me out of the corner of his eye as I was level with his door by now, and he was half way thru his turn, inches (inch?) from me, when he straightened up. By the grace of God I managed to get around him, going off the edge of the left hand side of the road to do so, on to the grass, off the power, off the brakes and nursed Big Silver along the sloping lawn and back up on to the road. PHEW. Couldn’t have been closer. Kevin who was following got a good view.
I saw no point in stopping to talk to the Driver so kept riding in an effort to stabilise my heart beat,
If it did turn out to be a tipover it would have been slow and on grass but I prefer the outcome we achieved. I’ve analysed the whole thing over and again to learn from it.
After stopping – and shopping at a new souvenir shop a few miles short of Lebanon, we came outside to discover a rear flat tire on the ST, Bugger. Jude stayed in the air con, and Kev and I headed for town on the 1800. We quickly found the Honda and Yammie shop – LCC, Lebanon Cycle Centre.

Troy the owner couldn’t do enough for us, - he quickly hitched up the trailer and after buying gas for his truck and water for us, headed out to pick up the bike, returning to the shop and repairing the puncture. We all perved at the new GL’s and assorted Yamaha’s while the repair was happening.

After all this fantastic service, the charge was $10!!!! Thank you very much Troy!
90 minutes from the time we found the flattie, we were on the road to a BBQ Pit lunch – superb recovery!

We got our first rain of the trip today – not long, but you Guys have BIG rain drops here!
After donning my jacket and Kev adjusting his screen, we pushed on cautiously. The ST was behaving well but the Wing didn’t like the wet at all, so we slowed the pace.

We stopped for the night in Springfield Missouri at another Drury Inn, Ruby Tuesdays for dinner, then shared a 6 pack in room with The Boys.

Sat 30th July 2011

We had agreed on an early start – so after a free brekkie we made a 7am departure – gassed up then off to meet up with our Buddies in the car, very soon known as the “Mother Ship “ who were in Rolla – our original target. The plan was for Sue to spend a day or two with the car Team, enjoy the AC and recuperate. Coming from a NZ winter to some US summer high temperatures does not work well when you are already ill!

Route 66 again and a delightful visit to Gary’s Service Station –, much hilarity and great photo’s – a tiny bit of rain which came to nothing Lunch/drinks at McDonalds in Joplin, - encountered some gravel road but ok and back on the superslab to Vinita where at around 2.30p we hit a Holiday Inn to avoid the 104F temps. Did laundry, visited Walmart next door and Kev bought a nice Kodak camera for $99. Some more beautiful scenery today including Joblins architecture – no sign of the tornado damage.

[shafty]

A big “Push “day with the plan being to eat some miles, so a 6am on-the-road start time was agreed on. Sure enough we were all on the ball, had a quick chat with a HD Rider and his Son setting off in their car at the same time, off to CA to set up Son in uni – many can relate.
79 degrees F and still dark, but very comfy, and great to get on the road. We were aiming ambitiously for Amarillo – some 450 miles away and with a hot hot day ahead, we’ll see….
Soon enough we were in Tulsa for breakfast at Tally’s Café – a brilliant visit, and a 100 miles before brekkie. Two poached eggs on toast was an excellent choice and Kev and Sue exchanged gifts with a very amiable Owner and Staff who really made the visit special, - a great start to a long day. Shortly thereafter a gas up with the pump debit card system playing ball today.
We then had a small hassle trying to overcome a “motorway closed” sign to where we wanted to enter. Some exploration, including our lead car driving the wrong way down a quiet street to ask a Cop Car ( wasn’t impressed lol) resulted in us finding our way past the closure no thanks to any signage, but minimal delay and we were west bound.
We had only one touristy stop planned, the Round Barn in Clinton – which we didn’t see the need to spend much time at, so we were once again on the Interstate. Lots of cruisers and beautiful classic American cars out on this stunning sunny Sunday – lots of waves to and fro.
We have developed a system – developed by Sue and Kev, of not only carrying bottles of cold water with us, but also a bag of ice! A bag lasts around an hour in the hottest part of the day, but sitting on Jude’s lap and against my back and between sucking ice and the melted icy water soaking our jeans, it is bliss at temps over 100F. Along with rewetting our shirts and gel collars, we covered a credible 700 + km’s that way and all agreed we arrived fresh and ready for action!
We are loving the sights on the freeway – piggy backed trucks is my favourite, seeing three new Volvo’s hitched behind the delivery truck yesterday – brilliant, a car transporter full of golf carts – too many to count as it flashed by, and another car transporter fill of classic cars.
With the NZ dollar so strong against the $US, our eyes are bulging at the export possibilities – cars? Bikes? Mowers? (Incredibly cheap Vs NZ)…….tires (tyres) at a fraction of the NZ prices……
There’ll be some Lads from Indiana who are working in Texas sporting NZ Ulysess Bike Club stickers on their hard hats tomorrow, the “Grow Old Disgracefully” logo appealing to them – we are meeting some lovely people on the road/at gas stations etc – all very friendly and curious about the “Kiwis on Tour “vinyl stickers both bikes and car are wearing…. (Kiwi’s being a flightless native NZ bird as well as the name of a fruit plus the nickname of New Zealanders)
Sunday 31st July
After a great night out last night we packed the bikes by 0600, breakfast and on the Honda’s by 0630 – no one letting the Team down. A quick gas up – the GL sucking more gas than the ST, and off into the lovely darkness of early morning Albuquerque, firstly heading for the Cadillac Ranch which Janice our expert navigatioligist found immediately. KOOL!
Loved it – its quite iconic for someone from so far away, so some pics mid sunrise then off on down the freeway.

Quite a decent mileage to cover today, but much cooler – very nice thank-you, and making good time. We passed in to New Mexico then stopped at a neat Truckstop/Service centre after about 80 miles where there is also a Car Museum . After some brill brekkie service we enjoyed the delights of the car collection. Art whose collection it is, spent some time in Australia, so we had a good chat, and enjoyed his indepth knowledge of his toys.
Saddling up and eating miles, we enjoyed the changing landscapes and colours and clouds and the different shapes and sizes our fellow freeway travellers took. A couple of comfort/gas stops and we were in Al buquerque by 11.30am thanks to losing an hour with time zones. We pulled up to compare notes/navigation to accommodation at the side of the road – and Janice had cleverly stopped us exactly opposite the Route 66 Diner – where better to have lunch?
I just HAD to try the peanut butter thick-shakes and the traditional American hotdog topped off a quissential US food experience – both were a delight. We all enjoy lining up at the bar for seating where there is one – something new and novel to us. Post lunch and with a hotel plugged in to the gps and were in the Airport Comfort Inn soon after.
Jude and I took the opportunity to jettison some cargo, stuff we weren’t using, by posting it to WV Joe (cheers Mate). The Boys took a strop around town in the Corolla to see some bike shops – Honda was a nice shop – we are still all stunned by bike and gear prices, the Honda Guys were friendly and obliging, then off to Cycle Gear where Susan, and Aussie Girl took us under her wing. A nice set of light gloves were purchased plus a free T shirt –Cheers Susan, you rock!
The Girls are now out at Walmart looking at Notebooks and Camera’s – Go Girls. Then dinner at Applebee’s then home to bed.
Monday 1st August
Up and packed by 0600 then brekkie in-house – Oat bran and a banana and on the road after gassing up and checking tyre pressures, winding our way out of an awakening Albuquerque – a pretty desert city.
Temps were down at 63F so a little chilly without the jacket and 20 minutes of vast vast landscape later we all pulled over to rug up. After a good hour we stopped for coffee and a second breakfast for some – at Jackson Town – some even ordered from the Seniors Menu – and were eligible too as well!
Back on the road eating some big miles and being passed by the odd big rig doing 80+ mph (!) we passed in to New Mexico to some amazing scenery, reds and browns and amazing rock formations, stopping at Lupton to do some Indian Jewellery shopping for the Girls and a nice wee birthday/thank you gift for Janice our Navigator extraordinaire. Some of the most pronounced eye catching rock formations were right here.
While enjoying the sun outside I was chatting with a 30’s Indian Guy who was admiring the Honda’s. He rides off road with his 4 Brothers and when I asked if there were good trails nearby he said they can ride to Flagstaff (180miles?) off road with gas stations dotted along the way – how kool is that.
We made the pilgrimage to Winslow, Arizona for a pic “standing at the corner”(Eagles Song – Takin it Easy), it’s a neat set up for a pick – well done Winslow – and a top notch souvenir shop did well out of our admiration for the Eagles. Lunch was taco style across the road at Bojo’s – recommended great service food and atmosphere. Chatted to a couple of top Harley Riders here on the way home to Ohio from a California ride, real friendly.
We continued our ride to Williams, a very pretty albeit touristy small town which is the step off point for the Grand Canyon. A sea of beautiful yellow flowers on both sides of the Interstate welcomed us in brilliant sunshine to our pre booked Travel Lodge Motel accommodation. Soon enough we were pool side recounting the day.
Williams has an excellent collection of tourist/souvenir shops tuned to Route 66, as well as genuine Rte 66 Diners etc. A daily gunfight in the main street was a hoot, and there are plentiful bars and eateries to enjoy. We had drinks/nibbles in Cruisin 66 where we could sit outside in the fading sun, and people/vehicle watch, and enjoy the live excellent soloist on the guitar.
Dinner was at the Red Ravin after some irresistible shopping.
Next day was dedicated to the Grand Canyon, catching the GC Train after a nice breakfast barside at the Route 66 Diner across the road from our lodgings. This was originally a Denny’s back in 1963 and one of the Waitresses has been there ever since! Off to the Railway Station a few minutes walk away, we watched the Cowboy Battle – these Guys are really funny, and on the train for the 2.25 hour ride to the GC.
We were well looked after with an Attendant in each carriage keeping us informed of where we were and what to do – plus on each leg of the journey we had a musician come thru the car to entertain. The Grand Canyon was, predictably, amazing. We took gazillion photo’s and people watched before a short stint hiking down and back a small way for more pix and bragging rights. The return trip seemed longer with a carriage full of kids but a beer and a wine eased the passage.
Dinner at the local Steak House followed by catching up with a couple of other Tourists we had met the day before in the local bar topped the day nicely.
Thursday Aug 4th
Up and at brekkie by 6.45, on the road by 7am and a stunning sunny day – a nice ride to Seligman which lived up to my memories of visiting in ’94. Visited some excellent Route 66 Shops and was truly delighted to once again meet Angel at his Barbershop. As I said to him, he doesn’t look a day older – what a tremendous Gentleman he is – surrounded by throngs of Tourists but kind enough to spend time to have a chat, take a photo and offer coffee.
Angel and his Brother were a major part of the Route 66 Preservation Society all those years ago – iconic. Off to Kingman, but not before re-tracking to the nearest tire shop after feeling a partly deflated rear tire – I discovered a lose valve, and am hoping that was the problem.
When I caught up with the others, they were parked under a tree enjoying some Rte 66 Root Beer with another young Kiwi Couple they had bumped in to – on a nice new Harley dresser.
Onwards to Kingman and hanging a left off to Oatman – what stunning countryside to ride through – and finally some corners! After having big rigs pass us doing 80 mph, this was much more fun.
Temps were touching 100F by now and the town was full of Harleys – all identical on a tour from Chicago, with a Dealer Back Up van. The only open restaurant was full so after a toilet water and ice cream stop it was back to Kingman for a diner lunch.
Topped up the tire (slow leak?) the next stop was the Hoover Dam – very impressive indeed. $7 parking was a bit sharp for a bike I thought but hey. It topped 112F here, so after some AC and lots of water and ice we pushed thru the last 28 miles or so to Vegas – Super 8, and a sleepin tomorrow!
After some time out we met in the lobby, took a short walk to a nearby Hotel for a drink and bar snacks dinner – Happy Hour – then booked a stretched Hummer to tour Vegas for an hour – just $125 for 6 of us – amazing – and wow what a ride. Isn’t Vegas just crazy? 2nd time here and it’s crazier = Adult Disneyland for sure. So we ended up at New York New York and 1 drink later were doing the Roller Coaster – WTF!! Survived, poor Janice was so proud of doing it (Well done Girl)
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[shafty]

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[Meanie]

An amazing write up Shafty, im looking froward to the next instalment.
Monie andd i are going to do something similar in a few years, your write up has got me all excited again

[shafty]

An amazing write up Shafty, im looking froward to the next instalment.
Monie andd i are going to do something similar in a few years, your write up has got me all excited again

Cheers Menie, nice to know someone is reading it! :msn-wink:

[shafty]

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[shafty]

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[yungatart]

Loved your write up, Shafty, and pics.
I did USA in '05. Went LA to New York and back to LA in an F250 pick up.
Memories of lots of the same things, including Winslow ,The Cadillac Ranch and Grand Canyon, (although mine was by chopper, I can really recommend it!)

I always wanted to go back and do Route 66 on a bike...maybe one day I will!(When I get the money sorted)

[shafty]

Friday 5th August
Sleep in’s all round and a leisurely tour of bike shops turned a little awry when we were dropped at the Harley Shop – we thought we may as well have a look now we are here – huge shop, nothing without HD logos on it, including trailers, trikes, golf clubs and boxer shorts. Oh well, Hondas here we come – but alas not a cab to be found – so we called one from the Supermarket next door – 2 hours later we finally got the Ford Dealership to successfully call one. Seems we were both out of the city loop area and Cabbies hate fares from supermarkets as they are usually “short haul “and no tip!

I retired early with a sore eye from a damaged contact lens while the others went to a Gladys Knight concert, and taking in some Vegas sights.

Sat 6th August
Thankfully my eye had healed, so after fare-welling Janice and Graeme who were flying out to Hawaii we pumped the rear tire on the ST with pando and with 75c of air from the gas station and headed outta Vegas as some people were straggling home from a night out!
I saw one Guy whose day wasn’t shaping up well, sitting handcuffed on the side walk while his car was being hauled on to a tow truck – How’s ya day going Mate? Lol

Successful navigation by Sue this time, as we headed for Barstow following the remainder of Route 66. We encountered some of the most stunning scenery today – really beautiful iconic desert straights and Joshua trees, the mammoth US trains passing both ways alongside side and occasionally across our path, - trains SO long and powered both ends by multiple huge loco’s.

We ate breakfast in a deserted desert type oasis Diner – we appreciated the AC and a chance to rest butts.

On on to Barstow after getting the requisite Route 66 shield painted on the road – awesome pics they are too. Kevin chose a different shield as we pushed on to a safer spot. When we caught up a few minutes later they were chuckling about the GL18 tipping over when Kev realised too late the side stand wasn’t properly down!

No damage to Man Woman or beast and quickly up-righted, however I was gutted to hear they didn’t have the presence of mind to get an iconic pic with a Goldie on the deck next to the shield!
On to Barstow where we lined up the nicest Motel in town but we were told to “come back at 2pm, we have lots of rooms then” – the lazy Manager relaying instructions to the cleaning Lady at the desk, so rather than wait 2 hours we took our money and butts to Victorville.

After having a troll thru the Victory/Kawasaki Dealership, where I admired a Cross Country, Jude drooled over an Eight Ball, and a ZG1400 was an unbelievable price to a Kiwi, we booked in at the Hilton Gardens – a bit of luxury for our final night with Sue and Kev.

Checked in, then I went in search of a new tire. The Honda Dealership was very helpful but didn’t have a tire, couldn’t get one for a few days. Turned out the Manager was from NZ so I sought him out, and he was born in the same small town I was- amazing! As, once again, were the new bike prices.

We noticed later that the ST which was on the centre stand, had sunken in to the hot tarmac, - phew, saved a freakish tip-over from hot black top.

We enjoyed a nice dinner with wine inhouse, toasting our fantastic ride on Rte 66 and all we had experienced, then popped next door to an amusement park for a go on the go karts and amusement arcade games. The karts were geared for toddlers, so a slow mo race was on! Then Kev showed us all up with his shooting skills, and Jude whipped my butt on the Isle of Man simulation, good laughs all round.

Sunday 7th
A leisurely breakfast, bran and yoggie and after finding a deflated tire, used Joes electric pump to inflate it for a quick trip to a gas station. Then with the bikes packed be bee lined to a gas station and Cosco for glue for Kev to glue back on the H of Honda which popped off when he washed it.

By the time we reached Costco the rear of the ST was more or less flat, so dropping off Jude and the tank bag I squirmed to the gas station to pump her up and some pando to add encouragement.
By the time I got back to the Team, she was flat again, so after a new valve from the Harley Dealer and s Fix a Flat can from Pep Boys, we were in business. This product isn’t recommended for bikes, but hey, in a small town on a Sunday, ‘needs must ‘. Turned out to work beautifully.

Final farewells to our Taupo Buddies and were Bakersfield bound.

Lots of wind today – also another mental note to raise the screen manually as soon as I have a time gap. Amazing contrasts in land again, dry dry land and flourishing crops of citrus and corn obviously cleverly irrigated.

We emerged toward Bakerfield on the Interstate down a valley in to a amazingly huge plain, - bigger than Ben Hur to a Kiwi, making us realise what a small dot we cast on the huge and impressive country.

Trolling thru Hispanic influenced outer settlements we arrived in Bakersfield, hopped in to some McDonalds shakes and wifi and located the nearby Honda Dealer and zipped around there to find they are on their Winter hours of Tues – Sat – HUH?

Snapped a nice room at a close Best Western Plus and wound down before strolling in the beautiful balmy early evening to suss out the Post Office, then a drink and nibbles.
We enjoyed a Mexican supper on the way home to finish a brilliant day and a nice sleep.

Monday 8th
We had planned to do some postage stuff this morning, so after our free brekkie at the Best Westie +, we scooted to the Post Office in central Bakersfield and dispatched some ‘excess baggage ‘home to Enzed. Then gassed up and cruised outta town on the now lighter Honda, off the Interstate, taking some back roads the Gps chose. An amazing contrast again today with yellow dry soil playing home to the lushest citrus trees – a real optical illusion almost. I see frequently small wind turbines amongst the tree groves – to pump irrigation water I guess.

It was a pretty h o t today, Jude feeding me ice cubes to suck and water. One ice cube stuck to my jeans and it soon melted spreading some extra coolness to my right leg, bliss in the 100F temps.
Visalia was as pretty as I remembered and we dined at Subway then off to EconoLodge where a nice room with good sized bed, wifi and breakfast cost us $60 + tax. Straight to the pool then a snooze (as it turned out) on the deck chair.

We headed off at 3pm to see the Sequoia National Park – me for the 2nd and Jude for the 1st time, but alas, the GPS took us 24 miles in the wrong direction to Porterville “Arriving at destination on right “Yeah Right!"

Bummer – 50 miles round trip just getting hotter – and it was a Garmin pre-set as well! They’ll be getting an e-mail about that! So back to the motel picking up a couple of beers on the way to chill and catch upon mail and planning and then a stroll to dinner, ZZZZZZZZZZZ.

Tuesday 9th Aug
We set out early to beat the heat and by 6.45 were burning gas outta town toward San Fran, - another stunning blue sky day, 66 degrees F, nice and cool. We had crunched nearly 100 miles by 0800 when we stopped in the tiny Chowchilla for brekkie at an ideal café. Coffee and bran and on the road again, gassing up nearby.

We were passing lots of hay trucks stacked high, more massive crops of everything from citrus to corn, and as we passed thru Fresno on the Interstate, huge huge yards of trucks and trailers for sale, and another of earthmoving machinery – as much as you could imagine.

After a climb up a 5 lane each way valley, topped by dozens of wind turbines waving at us, we descended into stop-start traffic. Some bikes passed us lane splitting – a GL1800, R1100S and others, but not for us country bumpkins…

Ms Garmin delivered us easily to Walnut Creek, a very pretty tree lined part of the City, where we booked in to a Super 6 Motel for 60 plus tax. Small room, but great spot and a nice pool.
While we were waiting for a room to become available (we were early) we had a snack at the Marriott next door. Along with the waiter, we both saw this luggage trolley, stacked high with luggage start to mysteriously move across the lobby – til we spotted this toddler pushing with all her might! What a crack up.

I was quickly ringing around for a Honda shop with a suitable tire, soon found one in nearby Concord, and we were off. Problem was, after being well behaved for days, the tire was flat again! I squirmed my way to a gas station 50M away collected Jude and we were off - making Contra Costa Powersports no problems. Time for a wander to the shops, a haircut and it was ready.

A quick dip in the pool then we were collected by some Kiwi Friends of Jude’s whom she last saw in 1984! A lovely Couple, Bruce and Charmaine really spoiled us with a dinkum barbeque in their lovely outdoor area, cheers Guys!

Wednesday and guess what? Another stunning day – this time we were jumping on the Train (Bart – Bay Area Rail Transport) near to the motel, and in to the big smoke. Less than 10 bucks return, awesome. You don’t need the worry of city riding when the system is as good as this.
A small walk in the wrong direction, eyes like saucers taking everything in, then back on navigational track to the waterfront.

Then another k or 2 to Pier 39 by which time it was after 11am and we were famished. Tigger took us in to Jude’s first Hard Rock Café, we shared an entrée and then wandered the very touristy village like pier.

We were keen on electric bikes but after lunch (which was breakfast also) we opted for a 2 hour double decker city tour for 20 bucks each – great value, and an excellent elevated spot from which to take photo’s.

Affording panoramic views from up top, and with a quirky commentary from the Russian Driver we loved San Fran and it’s amazing streets, homes, city buildings and the abundance of trees breaking it all up. Plenty of bike parking and lots of sickles also. Even spotted ((another) Hotel California too.
LOTS of walking today, so we rewarded ourselves, and Tigger with some 3 dollar beers in a swanky brasserie before pushing on back to BART.
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An easy walk from BART to Walnut Creek Township, and a pub dinner of fish taco’s. Home and Jude was ZZZZZZZ zing before you could count to 10!’

[Rhys]

awesome

brilliant write up :headbang:

that trip is on my bucket list

[STJim]

Loved the write up and the pictures
Cheers Jim

[shafty]

Thanks Yungatart, Rhys and STJim, I appreciate the feedback :niceone:

Shafty

[Gremlin]

Enjoying the read shafty :niceone:

[shafty]

Thursday
And we are in the swing of things packing wise, so before you knew it we were on the freeway exiting to Napa Valley. Pretty chilly it was too – just 57F which was one of the first times we’ve felt cold in the USA.

It’s funny but I still can’t get my head around the freeway thing – don’t get me wrong, it work’s great, it’s just that if you exit a motorway in NZ, you are immediately on a 2 lane road driving past a dairy. In the US, you exit on to another freeway, on to another.

Although the Napa and Sonoma valleys are both beautiful, attractive wine valleys, freeways are always close by.

We drove past “The Mighty Quinn” and in to Napa Village, found a huge café in an old style shopping centre and enjoyed breakfast. Then off to Sonoma after a quick scoot around Napa.

(A friendly localconfirmed my recollection that "Slow-noma"is less commercial and more real than Napa)

Sonoma is a beautifully quaint town with a lovely tree lined town square with people picnicking on the grass and gleaming restored buildings lining the outer rim. We were keen to stay at one of the nice hotels on the square but after checking tariffs and even working outwards from there hotels were still in the $250-$350 bracket.

So we called a Motel in Santa Rosa which had an advert in one of the many free tourist magazines and copped a great deal, nice room, wifi pool breakfast etc (std deal here) for around $63 + tax. Funnily enough if you rang and booked it would cost heaps more – one couple without the coupon paid over $100, but if you “walked in” with the coupon, Bingo!

Too late by now for a wine tour, which started much earlier than we realised - so we planned a nice dinner with what we had saved, then Jude hit the pool, while I toured some bike shops, as ya do.

Later we caught a cab to “Old Santa Rosa” for some pre dinner drinks at a corner tavern, then a nice dinner in an ivy covered Syrah Restaurant across the road, with some nice local wines.

Friday
And up early was Pete, raising the windscreen on the ST, partook of the free brekky by the pool, and once again riding in mid 50’s temps we rode past Lake Tahoe over some bridges and then thru mountain passes amongst a busy flowing stream of traffic of all sizes and shapes, flowing nicely at US freeway speeds, namely 80 mph min, - we even followed a Highway Patrol car for 10 miles at 85!

It was funny watching the Cop enter the freeway, everyone slowly reducing their speed discreetly, Moi included, then the Patrol Car worked its way to the fast lane and booted it, by which time everyone was back at their original speed again. Loving the US Police by now.

The scenery was top rate, rocky mountains, with clean rivers gushing along the road side, trees everywhere.

We were crunching miles today – part of a 2 day plan to carve up Nevada. Soon enough we were approaching the desert looking city of Reno with its huge Casino Billboards and buildings “99c domestic beers “”RV and Truck Parking “etc etc Hmmm about those beers….

After achieving the required miles before our first stop (100 miles +) we had breakfast at Jakes Restaurant and Casino in Fernley. Its incredible how many people are sitting in front of slot machines at this time of day – surely not for recreation? Anyway, gassed up here and hit the road again – through some amazing desert.

Once again our timing with Highway Patrols/Sherriffs was impeccable, arriving in small towns twice, at a nice respectable speed having just decelerated from a different league, as the Patrol is heading outta town toward us.

Soon enough we’d chomped 380 miles (miles are a bit longer than kilometres remember) to Hawthorne a smallish desert town just past an amazing Lake, Lake Walker.

There is a humungous US Military Facility on the outskirts of town, with untold super large buildings. An ammunition plant amongst them, Marine training facilities etc. The local paper showed a mockup building the Army allegedly built as a replica of Bin Ladens place before the successful raid in Pakistan recently. (Well done Boys)

There was an annual Baja off roader (Think VW Buggies and Polaris type side by sides) convention which looked fun – and would be good for the small town obviously struggling with the economy showing its signs thru many closed shops and run down Motels.

We chose a large motel called America’s Best, in gaudy yellow and teal colours owned by an Indian Family, which turned out to be brilliant. ($83 + tax but after a long day in the saddle, we were grateful) .After freshening up, I headed off to wash the bike. Dinner was Chilly at Maggies on Main Street, YUM.

Saturday 13 Aug and a beautiful sunrise welcomed us to the road thru the desert – stage 2 of mile munching today, so breakfast was planned for 103 miles away in Tanoopa, which came around soon enough. Desert riding with u l t r a long straights – the type you see on LP covers – so speeds of 80-90 mph are the norm.

Tanoopa has a rugged exterior suggesting mining as a history, but with Motels and McDonalds and of course a Casino or 2 which is where we stopped for Oatmeal and coffee after gassing up.

Had a quick chat with a Harley Rider from Utah while gassing up, - nice Guy, he was most impressed with the ST’s gas capacity – as I have been for years. No use putting it off, so saddled up and into the distance we headed.

We would just exit one 30 or 40 mile straight, around a bend or over the brow of a hill and there was a longer one. It was quite exciting when I had to make a right hand turn 50 miles later to head toward Rachel, home of the Alie-Inn (Alien Inn) near where “Area 51 “of Alien fame is.

The sign said “No gas for 111 miles “- no sweat to the Pan Euro but some Riders would be doing frantic math, - the sign was also quite a bit out of town already.

Rachel came along, and time for some water and a loo break. A bunch of trailer homes house the odd ball locals who choose (?) to live in the desert with nothing around, or can’t afford to leave, as well as some trailer homes for nightly rent. There is a bar/diner with some amusing signs and souvenirs. Quirky.

As Willie Nelson would say “On the Road again “and 1 minute after taking my jacket off, rain drops start so pull over put it back on and it stops, whatever. A re run of the mornings long straights, very little traffic, until we reach Caliente a mandatory stop for benzene.

There was a Sherriff with all his Patrol Cars lights ablaze on the forecourt bailing up a Roger Bruce look a like, poor sod, but a good decoy once again, so gassed and gone we were, just 80 MILES to go til we’ve done our 400 for the day.

After dodging some green hay bales which hit the road off a Kenworth, we reached Wendy’s in Cedar City with the Tripmeter reading exactly 400.0 miles from departure. Phew. Another good effort all round and only 2pm, with the mercury rising.

Where we popped in to Cedar City courtesy of the Gps Lady, food and motel options were plentiful, so we chose America’s Best Value Inn for just $51 + tax with free blah blah. Showered, e-mailed, then in to the Jacuzzi outside, nice.

We had a big walk before a Dennys dinner then beers in the room. Another fab day.

Sunday 14th

….and a leisurely start to the day especially losing an hour in Utah. Navigating out of town was easy and 20 minutes later we were in Zion Park’s Kolob Canyon. We bought an annual Nat Park Pass for $80, and used it right away to ride the 5 mile roadway at this end of the park - $24 saved.

Kolob was beautiful, photo opportunities abound, and a Park Ranger, Rendall was on hand to answer any questions. A very cool place.

Pressing on we headed toward Zion Park proper, even approaching the area was spectacular with towering cliffs of differing colours, red and yellow hues dotted with green trees, - people actually enjoy these views from their homes – wow.

Getting closer and some pretty period buildings and villages competed for our – and other Tourist’s attention.

Plenty of gift shopping, activities and dining options near the entrance to the park and we chose the allure of a pretty courtyard café which lived up to its promise. We also fed the bike some fuel then pootled the 100 metres, oops, yards sorry, to the queue to enter the park. Using our NatPark to save another $25 we were then waved over by a an armed Park Ranger for a “spot check “uh oh............. you may remember that my International License was laundered, and not lookin pretty......

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[shafty]

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[Gremlin]

A ranger dude? Hell, you should have found a ranger chick. Cute they were, but I was always in a queue fumbling with all the paperwork.

Also don't believe you require an International Licence, or at least, some in my group didn't have them... didn't seem to present a problem, but I organised one anyway.

[SPman]

Great write up. $7 parking at the Hoover Dam? It was free when we were there! I assume the new bridge is in place and you don't ride down and over the top of the dam, any more?

[Gremlin]

Great write up. $7 parking at the Hoover Dam? It was free when we were there! I assume the new bridge is in place and you don't ride down and over the top of the dam, any more?
Not as the main road... no. You can still, if you want to, as I did.

Some pics in this album for ya: http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb236/_Gremlin/2011%20USA%20D38/

[shafty]

Turned out to be a brief survey, so moments later we were enjoying the gobsmacking views of Zion.
Phew!
We rode for miles on excellent winding roads amongst a parade of other considerate visitors winding up and down amongst the most amazing rock formations and cliffs of all colours and shapes, - it truly was an assault on the senses, our eyes were like satellite dishes.

We were impressed with the Grand Canyon and didn’t expect it to be so upstaged as Zion just did, WOW!

Exiting the far end of the park, we stopped for water and restrooms, before continuing under uncertain skies having just copped a 4 minute shower. My T shirt dried in about the same time, but when setting off again it started to settle in soon after arriving at the beginning of the Bryce Canyon area.

With lightening and thunder as encouragement, we booked into a “rustic “ Bryce Canyon Resort to shelter. Turns out it should have been called Last Resort – the restaurant was unexpectedly closed, and the place was pretty run down, but hey.

Bryce Canyon
Wed 19th
We had a brill day riding through Escalente – more amazing scenery and nice bends, plenty of nice riding hills and drops before arriving at Torrey, around 11am.

We had been recommended a nice restaurant here called Diablo Café – with indoor/outdoor dining looking up to the beautiful red hills, so were keen to sample it’s delights, and sample them we did. Although early for lunch (it was our breakfast as well) they made us supremely welcome and while we cooled down and enjoyed coffee and water and took photo’s they set up around us before we ordered from their yummy menu.

I ordered a turkey sandwich and Jude had a salad, both excellent. We decided we were going to skip desert, but Amber brought us a basket tray showing most of the offerings and talked us thru them – we couldn’t resist so shared a Diablo delight. All their pastries cakes – even ice cream are made in house – and it tells. Highly recommended. After Jude bought a Diablo Tee Shirt we were heading in to the sun and the distance……..

More spectacular countryside surrounded us as we rode thru canyons, along ridgelines, and twisted down hills to do it all over again. We did take the time to stop at one of the “Over Looks “to view the Colorado River twisting between the harsh rock land. We also over looked a tiny settlement on the other side and between us lay a flooded town of many many years ago, as described by the always informative Tourist Plaques.

We were parched by now, but the water we had was warm, so we pushed on to the small junction town of Blanding to check in to a delightful, cheap motel near the only traffic lights. There were some Harley Boys in the unit next door – good blokes our age on their annual Boysie week away – heading home to Missouri from Sturgis the long way.

After a 2 mile walk looking for cool refreshments, I learned that it was a dry town – DISBELIEF! They allow you to ride a big bike without a shirt or helmet, but no, you can’t have a beer, go figure.

The Harley Boys directed me to a gas station 4 miles away, just over the city limits where they sold as much beer as gas, so before you knew it, we were chatting with the HOG Boys, beer in hand.
Some more bikes cruised in later, BMW GS1200, another Harley and a couple of Jap bikes. Twas a nice night to relax and swap tales in the evening warmth.

Thursday 20th
We were up and off surprisingly early, about 7.15 ish – we wanted to make it to Mesa Verde National Park early so as not to miss out on entry tickets (we needn’t have worried) – but it’s always nice to be on the road early. The Harley Boys hadn’t surfaced, so I gave them an airhorn wakeup call as we pulled out – only good manners I thought.

We soon caught up with a 4 trucks piggy backing which had passed earlier, and Jude took a cool photo of it. This is where 3 new trucks are piggy backed behind another new truck, that is, stacked on an angle, so as to deliver them – they look amazing.

Stopping quite early at Cortez, we were looking for a breakfast venue and soon found all the pickups outside a small café the locals used – a dead giveaway to a cheap and cheerful eatery complete with locals, cowboys and ranchers.

Next stop was Mesa Verde – this is where the ancient cliff dwellings are, I saw it years ago and was enchanted and Jude was keen to see it so here we were.

Using our NatPass Pass again (ka ching) we rode about 15 miles from the park entrance to the Visitors Centre with its viewing deck overlooking the beaut park. We met some cool young Guys in the car park who were enjoying a riding vacation also, (Wee Strom and Versys) and gave them some NZ stickers for their tool boxes/panniers.

Sussing out where to go, we chose a self guided tour to save time, and rode another 5 miles to Bruce House, where we wondered down to the dwellings along perfectly maintained and signposted paths.

It sure is impressive and access is great. Rangers are always at hand to answer questions, take pics for you and generally assist. The Americans have a fantastic National Treasure in their Nat Parks – they are absolutely H U G E and amazingly maintained.

Next stop was Four Corners – the only place in the States where 4 states join their boundaries at one spot. New Mexico, Colorado, Utah and Arizona. Turned out to be a HOT 40 miles each way thru road works, then having to pay $3 each to enter as it was run by an Indian Reservation, with plenty of Indian only arts and crafts sales.

Cold drinks and ice cones (sugar flavoured shaved ice in a polystyrene cup) were for sale at tourist prices, and a queue of Tourists were waiting for the opportunity for a pic on the corner plaque. Took a great pic of Jude and we were off, on a mission, to Durango.

So it was about 2pm when we made Durango, a smaller town than I thought, but busy as and with all the amenities you would want and more. Accommodation seemed quite expensive here, so after trying a few places, settled on an Econo Lodge at around $100 + tax, freshened up and strolled a few blocks to the recommended Durango Brewery Bar.

And it was two dollar night, bugger! We enjoyed a platter and a few cheap pints while gleaning advice for the next day’s ride from friendly locals – perfect. (And the stroll home was downhill)

Friday 21st
After a pleasant inhouse breakfast, we turned right out of the Econo Lodge and before we knew it, we were on the main road to Silverton. Just under half a tank of gas onboard – should be OK – and then we started soaking up the amazing scenery.

This is the road known as the Million Dollar Highway. Wikipedia will tell you the reason for this relates to 2 competing folk tales. One being the cost per mile of construction. The other, as verified by Ken in the Durango Brewery Bar the previous night, was the discovery of a Mother of all Mother Lodes of coal and some gold discovered while excavating for the road.

The tale goes that the Crew were sworn to secrecy about its existence and it was covered over to maintain progress on the highway.

Whatever way you look at it, this road IS GOLD – alpine views, riding through beautiful pine forests, stunning blue skies, climbing up and around the hills, past major unguarded drop off’s, before dropping down in to Silverton.

And not before time too, as the ST’s gas gauge/computer had gone from the “Average MPG” read-out, to the “You have this far to go Buddy” read-out thru to the “UH UH, it’s all up to you Bucko” read-out. So with 320 miles out of that tank, I was very happy to reach the summit, knowing that if need be, we could free wheel down in to Silverton.

What a pretty wee town this is, looking all spruce in the main street, all sorts of novelty vehicles along the way, a roofless Range Rover, a classic pink sign written Delivery Van, a jacked up (4 X 4 ?) New York Taxi, and a ½ track truck. Think Alpine Martinborough(NZ) .

We settled in to the front deck of the General Store for coffee, topped up our mobile phone and read the paper. Hey I even bought a nice US flag to fly back home. People watching was good too, with many stopping to chat having seen the “Kiwi’s on Tour” stickers on the Pan Euro. I love seeing the US flag flying so often here and remember last time I visited, resolving to get a flag up at home. This time I will.

We geared up and started heading further towards Ouray. We soon passed a bunch of Harley Riders doing some dodgy U turns in front of us – they obviously over shot the Silverton turn off.

Up the sweeping curves of the hill, once again some scary drop offs without Armco gave me the heebie geebies and had me hugging the centreline! Some impressive switchbacks took us down again then more climbing. All through superb alpine scenery – twas like riding thru a chocolate box scene. Riding doesn’t get any better than this.

Ouray is another pretty town we would have been VERY tempted to stay in, Jude and I both spying an inviting outdoor deck area of a local bar - but CO Springs beckoned, so onwards and upwards…..

Thru some high altitude construction zones, then we turned off, as recommended in the bar the previous night, to The Black Canyon National Park. Free again for us with the NatPark Pass, we took the recommended 5 or so mile ride down to the bottom of the canyon, 3 of which were at a 16% incline (decline?). A beautiful river and picturesque weir in the peaceful valley, which was deserted except for a lone fly fisherman and some picnickers.

Back on the road and a pleasant ride in to Salida, the destination for the night. We chose the Colorado Inn and Suites which was very comfortable. It eventually turned out that their wifi wouldn’t work so they gave a 30% discount on what we had paid already, so that was very fair, and the rooms were comfy and well equipped.

A Texan Couple in the next door unit got to talking to us, - they ride also, and invited us to join them for dinner in Old Salida Town, a great restaurant they had picked out earlier, and a pleasant evening was had by all. That was very friendly of them, real nice Folks – and typical of Americans we have met so far. (And Jude’s 1st ride in a Cadillac)

[shafty]

More pix.....

[BMWST?]

is it difficult to adjust to riding on the right....?

[chanceyy]

Awesome read Shafty, next installment plz :)

[Bender]

Great reading.

[shafty]

is it difficult to adjust to riding on the right....?

Thanks for the feedback Guys..............:wari:

BMWST:Although we hit America running, after 2 years in the Middle East (also a LHD Country), we obviously had to adapt when we arrived there.

No big deal, - really. As long as you are 'aware ' of the need for caution, as you clearly are having asked the question, you''ll be fine.

I tied a bright ribbon on the RHS handlebar of my Mate's rental Goldwing - he was a little apprehensive (I'll follow you around the States Pete LOL) - just in case, but he was fine also.

Traffic is fantastic there compared to here, relaxed and much of it is 2-5 lanes each way anyway, so seperate directional lanes.

I loved one of their road signs, would like to see some here : DRIVE FRIENDLY :niceone:

Shafty

[DrunkenMistake]

How much did your entire trip cost you if you dont mind me asking?
Looks like you had a fantastic time, and im a little jello! haha

[sinfull]

I enjoyed that ride Mr.
Cheers for sharing that !

[scumdog]

Great write-up and photos shafty - made me homesick for the USA (If you know what I mean!)

A great place eh - and so BIIIGG!

[scumdog]

Thanks for the feedback Guys..............:wari:

BMWST:Although we hit America running, after 2 years in the Middle East (also a LHD Country), we obviously had to adapt when we arrived there.

No big deal, - really. As long as you are 'aware ' of the need for caution, as you clearly are having asked the question, you''ll be fine.

I tied a bright ribbon on the RHS handlebar of my Mate's rental Goldwing - he was a little apprehensive (I'll follow you around the States Pete LOL) - just in case, but he was fine also.

Traffic is fantastic there compared to here, relaxed and much of it is 2-5 lanes each way anyway, so seperate directional lanes.

I loved one of their road signs, would like to see some here : DRIVE FRIENDLY :niceone:

Shafty

We never had any issues re drive on right while there - and as you said, the traffic is fantastic, a shit-load of Kiwi road-users could learn from the Yanks driving manners.

[Gremlin]

is it difficult to adjust to riding on the right....?
I was quite worried, as I had never driven/ridden on the right at all. I spent the first couple of days on the weekend (before we collected our bikes) deliberately walking on the right side of paths, and trying to overcome my tendency to dive left when walking towards someone. :laugh: Sounds obsessive, but also walked around town etc.

The biggest issue was gas stations and carparks with no other vehicles around, so I tended left a few times. The roads had plenty of vehicles on them, so you just followed whatever everyone else was doing. Felt quite natural actually.

[shafty]

Thurs 18th

Today commemorates us being 1 month here, and over 6000 miles so far. A short scoot thru to Colorado Springs, and despite more road works we arrived around 10.30, straight to the impressive Honda/Yamaha/Triumph shop where I had lined up an oil, filter and brake pad change.

While waiting we admired the fabulous selection of new and used Gold Wings and a myriad of other very cool bikes – it was like a Candy Store to us, and probably the biggest bike store so far (non Harley anyway) Even the accessories area blew us away.

Chatted with Salesman Steve whose personal ride is also an ST1300. Around an hour later and the bike was good to go, so we booked in to a nearby Econo Lodge to catch some sun, do laundry and relax before venturing down town for some dinner in a sidewalk pub, and more people watching.

Friday 19th
…………and a pretty average day today with very average scenery and long straights. We breakfasted at Village Inn at La Junta after following detours around the town of Rocky Ford which was having it’s County Fair.

Only stopping for gas until we reached Garden City where we cooled ourselves in McDonalds – for AC, wifi, Restrooms and cold drinks. Having gradually reached 104F, we were hot hot hot.

Never mind, just 50 miles or so to Dodge City and it was only around 2pm – let’s do it.

As we left town we continued to smell the feed pad cattle rearing we have seen so extensively – poor cows, nothing like the lush NZ grassy paddocks. Stock was housed in flat dirt pens obviously being grain fed as each “farm “had a huge silo complex near the pens.

The problem turned out to be major Road Works between here and there, and here in the US, construction zones aren’t just 200 metres (yards) they are 10 or 20 miles in some cases, as was this one. So lots of waiting in line for the Go Slow sign in a series of hold ups, not really knowing what we were waiting for. Fortunately we were out of the sun most of the time.

Then, when we did get the free run into Dodge, massive cross winds were whipping dirt – as well as us – across the road. This was as bad a wind as I’ve ridden in, so it was change down a gear for torque and position ourselves close to the right hand side of the centreline of the road, and as oncoming traffic approached, using brakes as well as power to brace the bike steady – this was a major workout.

7 or 8 miles later we were safe, as the storm continued to stir, we quickly booked in to the Travel Lodge for just $59.00 + tax for an excellent room. Phew.

We were toasting each other on surviving the storm, and our brilliant motel selection when the train went past the back door tooting at 130decibels, - we had to laugh!

Saturday 20th
Not far today, so it was nice to have a leisurely start after in house breaky – 0930 and a quick zip around town – the whole place has a rather unpleasant smell from both feed pen kept cattle close to town, and the aroma of a abattoir or 2 . That would also explain the flies about the place. So after a 5 minute look-see, we……………Got the Hell outta Dodge! (I’ve been dying to say that!)

The road was flat and straight, the day very cloudy with a rain storm skirting around us, haunting the local riders too, who were returning to town as we were leaving.

Very quiet traffic wise, so it was quite pleasant riding, with great surfaces allowing a good average speed, especially when the wind stayed down. We rode past one small town with a sign pointing to “Storm Shelters” which were steel cabinet like bunkers sunk into the ground – Boy it must get pretty rough here!

We stopped in the small town of Kingman for gas, lunch and a quick look at a busy bike store, filled with all used bikes – a great selection. We loved the sign in the shop window: “We called your wife and she said it was OK” LOL.

Arriving in Wichita just after lunchtime, nice and early, we took a spin around town and really liked what we saw. Venturing past the usual parade of Motels, we stumbled upon Hotel at Water Walk (www.Hotelatwaterwalk.com ) advertising rates from $109, so we ducked on in and WOW, highly recommended! Asked if we had a AAA card we said yes as usual, even though we don’t as we’ve never been asked for one (Naughty I know), so for 109 we got a little piece of luxury for the night – modern, spacious, brand new, then they delivered a complimentary snack basket, including 2 tickets to a baseball game nearby, which we were asking about!

After some drinks we sauntered to the nearby Baseball park – near the centre of this modern city.

We felt right amongst the locals as we queued for beer and hotdogs before taking our premo seats on this sunny afternoon. The locals sitting around us made us feel right at home as we enjoyed a fun game to watch with all the American pageantry you’d expect.

Part way through the game I popped down to replenish the beer supplies, returning to learn the Woman sitting behind me copped a stray baseball in the shoulder – phew, thank God I went for drinks.

Sunday 21st
Leaving Witchita we were headed for Locust Grove. Oklahoma. More picturesque scenery including some reminiscent of Route 66 with tumbledown towns complete with old display garages.
I soon spotted a local Sheriff who checked out the bike closely as we drove past. I saw him 2 or 3 more times pulling up cars as we hunted for a motel the Garmin had selected for us.

We stayed in a nice chain motel with a Jacuzzi Room, and enjoyed a refreshing swim in the pool before visiting the pizza parlour 200 metres away for pizza and beer. There was nothing here but the motel, a gas station (sells beer) and the pizza place, - but all we needed. Apparently there had been a Denny’s there also, but the picked it up and trucked it away a couple of years ago when business didn’t catch on

Mon 22nd
Gassing up next door, a local warned us of an impending storm – US storms are to be avoided, but it was fine as we headed across the road to the toll expressway, fingers crossed. We headed to Arkansas and enjoyed very rural back roads, stopping for lunch at a tiny settlement called Deer

This place was the same size as where we live in NZ, with only a church and café where we enjoyed a dinkum back country lunch and a chat with the Owner Operator of Cookies Cafe– we were the only one’s there.

We soon “popped out “on to a main road and continued to the pretty town of Jasper, where one ‘Yard sale ‘included an intact Honda 500/4. After more beautiful back roads, we stayed in Harrision – where looked at the local Honda shop and the excruciatingly cheap bike prices.

We stayed at a Holiday Inn where they provided old hotel towels for bike riders to clean their bikes with. After cooling off in the indoor pool, we walked to a nearby JC Penny where Jude did some shopping, then stopped in to a “All you can eat “buffet nearby with was a bad move – fab food but too much!

Home to clean my helmet and relax, for tommorrow we ride.

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[shafty]

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[Mr Triple]

Hey.. Awesome wright up and pics Shafty.. Good job we didn't get on the subject

when you were down or you would of had to stay another night for sure!!!

[shafty]

Cheers Chanceyy, Bender, Scumdog, Sinfull and Mr T! :2thumbsup


How much did your entire trip cost you if you dont mind me asking?
Looks like you had a fantastic time, and im a little jello! haha

I tend not to total things up, we were fortunate that we were repatriating home from the (tax free) Middle East, so flights were sorted and the Pan Euro was a bike-swap.

Daily costs:

Motel $41 + tax thru $109 + tax - mainly dependent on how we felt. Indulged a bit for the Lady. A bloke would be happy in $40-60 ones where available

Gas $25 a day

Beer: $10 a day

Food: Maybe $30 a day

Hope that helps.

As the Visa advert says: Route 66 and beyond? Priceless..........

[shafty]

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We doubled back thru beautiful Jasper, then cruised thru all forest roads today. We were to stay with an American couple tonight we had hooked up with via www.motorcycle-travel.net . This a Bed and Breakfast network for Motorcyclists prepared to offer their spare room to travelling Riders, on a reciprocal basis, for a modest fee.

Riding through park-like roads we encountered deer running across the road in front of us. They just dash out of the undergrowth and on to the road. We had seen them standing on the road once before and they moved away pretty damned quick; this time we spotted the deer maybe 50 metres ahead, and watched it dash away. What we should have thought of, was watching for the next one - they seem to move in pairs or more. We missed hitting it, and Jude miraculously caught it on camera.

We stayed with Allan and Karen at Hot Springs Village, Arkansas, a beautiful place indeed.

The Village is a 22,000 acre gated community with 11 lakes and 9 golf courses, and our Host’s house is on the water’s edge. Allan met us at the main entrance to the Village where we had bought wine as a contribution to a dinner they had offered. A fab dinner it was too, as well as being nice to chat with these local motorcyclists about all sorts of things – Allan even insisted putting his own beautiful Police edition BMW out of the garage for us to park under cover.

Wed 24th
After the compulsory photo’s, we headed out under dubious skies, and a threatening storm very close. Allan had guided us out of the extensive country roads which make up the Village, and minutes after waving him off, we were in drenching rain, the worst we had encountered, with visibility thru the visor being bloody terrible.

We limped along the country roads until it relented 30 minutes later – phew. Approaching Memphis involved the passing of dozens of trucks, each whipping us around in their windy wake, - we later learnt that were near a major interstate – linkup, hence the heavy commercial traffic. After visiting a local Polaris/Victory shop for a perve, we stayed at the second Motel we inspected, - next to a truck stop on the city’s Western outskirts, for $60 something. We caught a cab in to Beale St in the city, a historic jazz/party spot, with the huge bonus being that tonight was Bike night. We were there nicely early to sit out in the balmy afternoon at an outdoor table of one of the many bars which line the street, watching the bikes trickle in. The road is closed for all except bikes, and as the sun went down and the neon signs took over, there were hundreds of beautiful bikes spanning the brands, and including some special Indians, Victory’s and ancient Jappers. We Bar hopped up and down and soaked up the fantastic atmosphere with locals and other tourists – a particularly excellent night.

Thurs 25th
On the way out of Memphis, we stopped in for an appointment at an Optometrist which I’d jacked up the day before. I ordered 2 sets of glasses and some contact lenses at the competitive US pricing, - which arrived in NZ shortly after we did.

We rode out to Nachez Trace National Park, took the road thru to Lexington where we decided it was too hot and too late to carry on. Once you start the Trace, there’s no commercial stuff on the road, like motels and air conditioned café’s.

We had to endure even more idyllic countryside and quiet smooth roads before arriving at the bustling service town of Lexington. so we hunkered down at the Day’s Inn for a paltry $50 + tax thanks once again to Triple A. Our room was fine, with beer and nibbles just 80 yards away at the gas station.

It was getting hot, so a dip in the pool, cranking up the AC and a cold beer was called for. Another very comfortable room, with separate desk, fridge and microwave.

I had spotted a Dodge Challenger for sale on the roadside on the way in to town, so popped back for a look. Turns out it was a new one, parked across the road from the dealer. It looked stunning in Toxic Orange –and the base price? $US24,895!!

Later when dinner called, we opted to stroll to a nearby Supermarket to grab some fixings rather than prepared foods, had some laughs along the way and entertained the Checkout Girls who marvelled at our accents – “Y ‘all talk so awesome” LOL

Fri 26 August

After complimentary brekkie, coffee and juice we headed out in (again) perfect sunshine, to pick up the trail of the Nachez Trace National Parkway.

Quite a few Police Patrol cars about today, but we are in cruise mode, - blue skies, warm as, brilliant scenery, no reason to hurry.

Flowing through rural 2 lane roads, the scenery really is enchanting – we love the way fences between properties are rare, with lots of huge mown lawn being the only separation between houses, - very attractive.

We soon came across a picturesque Marina with boats moored at pontoons – under cover!

There were many houseboats there too looking very inviting. It seems many have taken this as a relaxed form of retirement – and it seems to be working for them, with big smiles and relaxing attitudes all round.

After some confusion due to road-works and signage, we found the Nachez Trace – literally riding thru a groomed National Park. No commercial stuff as I said earlier, plenty of historic sights and monuments to stop and view, very little traffic, and more than the normal share of bikes.

We came upon a super high over-bridge where we were looking down around 11 storeys to the expressway below, with amazingly low railings. Two couples on a Harley and a Goldwing were also stopped taking in the view. They told us that it had been a popular place to commit suicide – it would certainly work.

We enjoyed a good laugh with them, and after photo’s headed off to the nearby Loveless Café and Motel they had recommended, for lunch. Using the dedicated MC parking alongside a nice Trophy 900 identical to one I had owned, we had to wait a short time for a table,- this locally famous spot was extremely popular, to the extent that they had a separate gift shop with Loveless merchandise and tasty treats.

The size of the meals were crazy – Jude ordered a salad and received a family sized bowl staked high and laden with chicken – Jude was gobsmacked!

Struggling back to the bike, we passed through Nashville – for a quick fix of bike shops (an original 4 pipe ’76 Honda for $4500 anyone?), then aimed for Woodbury where we were to go to a Rodeo tonight.

Jude had booked ahead the closest Motel to the Rodeo grounds, so we could walk to it. After checking in to this quite new, motel, configured more like a boarding house with ensuite rooms, we strolled into the main street for a look around. A small town, Woodbury was sunny and hot, hot enough to lure us in to a wee bar called The Scoreboard, where friendly service and huge ice cold handles were dispensed. We had dinner here too before walking to the evening’s Rodeo.

The rodeo was a small town event, but very entertaining – from watching the kids swaggering around in their cowboy/girl outfits, to the mechanical bull in the fast food area, the kids riding lambs, thru to the near professional cowboys on bulls and wild horses, - a very entertaining night was had.

Saturday 27th
We were now simply heading West, taking in anything that appealed, without too much serious planning. Heading through some delightful farming areas off the Interstate rewarded us with another set of views, old tractors, decorative post and rail fences, abundant crops, abandoned old fire engines….

We arrived in a largish farming service town called Crossville, and following our technique of spotting the pickups, we found a scrumptious spot for brunch by way of a local diner. On the way out of town we stumbled across a Car Show with beaut classic and rare cars and small trucks on display with no entry fee. So we enjoyed a stroll around in the sunshine.

Onward over tree lined roads, sweeping bridges, high above huge lakes complete with pleasure craft marinas, and past a bunch of cool looking tumble down barns we rode, til we entered the State of Kentucky.

We enjoy a beer at the end of a hot day’s ride, so it was with trepidation that we noticed the lack of any liquor stores or beer in gas stations. We were independently thinking of songs like “Kentucky Moonshine, reference to Kentucky Bourbon etc – surely it’s not a dry county? A quick Google at McDonalds revealed it was, so we rejigged our last riding stint of the afternoon to duck back over the State line! 

We stopped just off the Freeway at Jellicoe where we got a cheap, but nice room (AAA Discount!) at a Days Inn which was HUGE and nearly empty. A bit late in the day for a swim, but the pool looked fab. Across the road for a Mexican meal, home for a catch up of blog/internet and a relax.

Sunday 28th
Goodness me, another stunning sunny day! After gassing at the next door servo, we hopped back on the Interstate for an hours ride to Hazard, a planned Brekkie stop. Despite being on the I/State, we were wending through what seemed like a forest, as so many huge trees lined the concrete ribbon we rode. Really beautiful, and obviously a concerted effort by the US Govt.

Hazard appeared to be a large coal based settlement, carved out of rock canyons, yet modern in commerce. We ‘dined’ in a supermarket café enjoying reading –then returning their magazines after breakfast. People watching was always fun, this morning we observed a huge boy of maybe 13, wandering around the supermarket scoffing a family size cake of dark chocolate, then later saw him outside on his second one, this time white chocolate!

As Willie Nelson would say “On the roaaaaaad again” and soon enough we cruised in to Wild and Wonderful West Virginia, Joes home State. Traffic was real busy on the freeway, as we stopped at the Visitors Centre to take a break and use their facilities.

We (Jude) had planned a few days break, off the bike with a bit of luxury, in Charleston, WV’s capital, prior to returning Joes bike and what a great idea it was. A nice inner city Best Western, with a good Expedia deal, nice pool and walking distance to shops and restaurants, did the trick.

Three nights of chilling out, giving the bike a wash, exploring local eateries and shops was a nice end to an amazing trip.

We were only an hour’s ride to Beckley, where we were to return Joe’s bike and uplift our spare gear, but it was probably the most nervous of the trip, playing it real careful not to make any silly mistakes resulting in a tip-over or worse.

Arriving in Beckley, we zipped in to a Wendy’s for a cool drink when we heard a car tooting at us excitedly – it was Joe who happened to driving past and spotted his bike. A quick intro to Jude and he zipped on his way.

After picking up a box of beer to share with our host, it was with huge relief that we pulled in to Joe’s garage and turned the key off – no tip overs, injuries, tickets or damage.

A cool night of catching up with Joe and his lady, Betty followed by a neat dinner out as a thank you from us rounded the trip off nicely.

It was all over. Phew. What a bloody fantastic trip – amazing – weather and scenery fantastic, America is very user friendly, fun place to travel, - and it’s BLOODY BIG.

Were we disappointed it was over? No way. It had been a trip of a lifetime, - the second for me, and we were heading home to beautiful New Zealand after 2 years away.

The highlights were untold. I would not be surprised if we return, a firm friendship with Joe is a nice bonus, Cheers Mate.

Thanks for reading this!

Shafty

[shafty]

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[wynw]

awesum write up Shafty! Thanks for sharing.

[shafty]

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[shafty]

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[shafty]

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[shafty]

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[insomnia01]

:clap::niceone: Awesome write up Shafty now where's that lotto ticket :facepalm:

[martybabe]

Great write up Shafty, tis the stuff dreams are made of dude, well done you.

P.S. Did I mention I'm just a tad jealous :msn-wink:

[fergie]

One of the best travel reports i have ever read,chapeau!

[shafty]

One of the best travel reports i have ever read,chapeau!

Cheers Fergie :scooter:

[Swoop]

Damn. A great read Shafty! Awesome trip.

[Jantar]

I've just found this thread. Great write up Shafty. What a tour. :clap:

[ducatijim]

Pete, you mean you went to Colo Springs and didn't ride to top of Pikes Peak?

Tut tut. Seemed like one could almost see all of the US from up there!!!!

Interesting reading your opinions of the same things we saw.