TS185 questions

[SMOKEU]

I have just bought a 1970s TS185. It still has the factory oil injection system which is something I want to get rid of ASAP. There's a bottle just by the seat which contains 2 stroke oil, and then a hose connecting that bottle to the crank case. If I want to get rid of the oil injection, then is the simplest way to do it to just empty out all the oil from the container and then run it on pre mix? What fuel:oil ratio do I use? I was thinking I could disconnect the whole system, but then there would be a hole in the crank case where the oil feed hose goes so I will need to plug that.

Also, what gearbox oil should I use?

I have noticed that the bike also has 2 spark plugs, only 1 of which has a lead connected to it. Is this normal?

[unstuck]

I have an old TF185 here that gets used as a hack,I just cut the hose and plugged it up and removed the bottle, Yep normal to have 2 spark plugs, I run mine at around 25/1 and it,s been going like that for years. Think I have clutch saver oil in it too, cant remember the brand though.

[SMOKEU]

How well sealed does that hose have to be? I was thinking I could just cut it half way then double it over and tie it with a piece of wire or something.

[unstuck]

I just cut it and shoved a bolt up it with a hose clip round it.What about the cable from the throttle to the pump/ or does your bike not have one?

[SMOKEU]

I just cut it and shoved a bolt up it with a hose clip round it.What about the cable from the throttle to the pump/ or does your bike not have one?

From the hand throttle, there is a single cable. The cable then splits into 2 cables, 1 of which goes to the carby to control the throttle, the other enters the crank case directly next to where the oil feed goes.

Also, how do I check the gearbox oil level? I can see the filler cap but there's no dipstick or sight glass that I can see.

[unstuck]

From the hand throttle, there is a single cable. The cable then splits into 2 cables, 1 of which goes to the carby to control the throttle, the other enters the crank case directly next to where the oil feed goes.

Also, how do I check the gearbox oil level? I can see the filler cap but there's no dipstick or sight glass that I can see.

Maybe the dipstick has been broken off of your filler bung at some stage, As for the cable, I just put a cable from the throttle to the carby and did away with the one to the pump. It should have the oil capacity stamped on the casing somewhere.

[Sable]

Why the hell would you want to get rid of the oil injection

[nzspokes]

Why the hell would you want to get rid of the oil injection

Maybe he enjoys replacing pistons.:facepalm:

[SMOKEU]

Why the hell would you want to get rid of the oil injection

Apparently oil injection is prone to failure on old engines (this bike I have is in a rough condition and looks like it hasn't been maintained well) so I was thinking of running it on pre mix just to be safe so I KNOW that the engine is being properly lubed.

[FJRider]

Apparently oil injection is prone to failure on old engines (this bike I have is in a rough condition and looks like it hasn't been maintained well) so I was thinking of running it on pre mix just to be safe so I KNOW that the engine is being properly lubed.

You know when the oil has stopped flowing ... no blue smoke.

[pete-blen]

You can remove the the suzuki CCI oil injection.... BUT
You HAVE to pull the motor apart to do it and drill a hole
in the left cank case at the bottom of the transfur port
channel .. the hole has to go though to the left mail berring.

If you take a look at the oil feed line to the motor you will see it
feeds in to the crank case though a banjo bolt.. then directly to the main berring
Then after the berring the over flow the mixes with the air in the crank case
to lube the big end & bore....( right main is lubed by the gear box oil)

Yamaha etc feed the oil directly to the intake port so just pre mix the fuel
and yer good to go.... But it don't work like that with suzuki...
You can just remove the pump on a suzuki & pre mix it.. it won't seize
but the left mains going to go in quick time...

[SMOKEU]

OK I'll just leave the oil injection system in and use that, then I'll periodically check for blue smoke and a decrease in the oil level.

Now, for the gearbox. I had a look at the gearbox filler and it doesn't look like there ever was a dipstick under the gearbox oil filler cap. I can't see any obvious signs that it has broken off. Now 2 stroke bike gearboxes don't work on the same principle as car gearboxes where you just fill it right to the top, do they?

[pete-blen]

OK I'll just leave the oil injection system in and use that, then I'll periodically check for blue smoke and a decrease in the oil level.

Now, for the gearbox. I had a look at the gearbox filler and it doesn't look like there ever was a dipstick under the gearbox oil filler cap. I can't see any obvious signs that it has broken off. Now 2 stroke bike gearboxes don't work on the same principle as car gearboxes where you just fill it right to the top, do they?


Just do a google search for the amount of oil it takes...
drain it / re fill...

[SMOKEU]

Just do a google search for the amount of oil it takes...
drain it / re fill...

It's leaking gearbox oil as there was a lot of oil build up around the bottom left of the engine. It's often quite hard to get the bike into 1st gear but the rest of the gears are fine and the bike rides well. I'll do a gearbox oil change ASAP before I even ride it again. I just downloaded a workshop manual for it so I'll have a look.

Can't complain too much since I only paid $340 for it. It'll make a good summer project to keep me out of trouble. :yes:

[Dadpole]

Below the gearbox filler cap you will see a 10mm head bolt with a phillips/cross head screw slot on it. Stand the bike upright and fill until the oil comes out this hole. A dead simple and foolproof method.

[MarkW]

From memory the TF185 had a 10mm headed (6mm threaded) bolt screwed into the side of the lower right gearbox cover that when removed dribbled gearbox oil out when the gearbox was full. Somewhere around the footpeg height. This bolt was NOT on the outer rim of the cover (these bolts hold the cover on) but was in the middle.

The twin plug head was originally so that you could put a hot plug in one hole and use this plug when running slowly around the farm and a much colder plug in the other hole so that when you were thrashing the stuffing out of it you didn't melt the hot plug or a hole in the piston. You simply moved the plug cap to whichever plug was most appropriate for what you were about to do. It was a great theory and did work - sort of sometimes!

The CCIS system that Suzuki ran was pretty reliable from my experience - and I ran a GT380, a GT550 and later on a TS185 for many years with never a hint of a failure. In more recent years my RG500 did well over 75,000km as well.

Hope this helps,

MarkW

[Sable]

Yep, not much wrong with CCI.

[tigertim20]

It's leaking gearbox oil as there was a lot of oil build up around the bottom left of the engine. It's often quite hard to get the bike into 1st gear but the rest of the gears are fine and the bike rides well. I'll do a gearbox oil change ASAP before I even ride it again. I just downloaded a workshop manual for it so I'll have a look.

Can't complain too much since I only paid $340 for it. It'll make a good summer project to keep me out of trouble. :yes:
I doubt it. My brother had one of these when I had a mudbug when I was 12.
I can assure you you can get into PLENTY of fucking trouble.
Neighbors started to think the local cop lived at our house for how often he was popping by due to a complaint, or because we had been seen trying to wheelie the fuckin thing down the main road AGAIN. . .

[SMOKEU]

The gearbox just uses ordinary mineral 20W40 car engine oil doesn't it?

[FJRider]

The gearbox just uses ordinary mineral 20W40 car engine oil doesn't it?

Not if it's a wet clutch ...

[MarkW]

The gearbox just uses ordinary mineral 20W40 car engine oil doesn't it?

It probably could maybe but it holds so little oil that buying the correct gearbox/clutch oil for a two stroke will be peanuts as the total capacity is probably under a litre. I ran Belray synthetic gearbox oil in the RG but can't remember for the life of me what I had in my TS185 - it was 32 years ago now.

But your local suzuki dealer will know what should be in it - the 185 is still available around the world but not new in NZ.

Mark W

[SMOKEU]

It probably could maybe but it holds so little oil that buying the correct gearbox/clutch oil for a two stroke will be peanuts as the total capacity is probably under a litre. I ran Belray synthetic gearbox oil in the RG but can't remember for the life of me what I had in my TS185 - it was 32 years ago now.

But your local suzuki dealer will know what should be in it - the 185 is still available around the world but not new in NZ.

Mark W

I bought some 10W40 mineral motorbike oil so I'll put that in.

[F5 Dave]

meh they'll run with anything, but I thought the obvious answer was to buy some 2 stroke gearbox oil, every bike shop will carry several brands of gearbox oil.

Your leak is the output shaft. There is a seal & that may be leaking, but often it is the o-ring behind the bush on the shaft. If you take the sprocket off the bush will pull out & expose the seal & also there should be a thin o-ring.

[SMOKEU]

I just put in a new air filter, new spark plug, new gearbox oil, welded chain tensioners so I can properly adjust the chain, put in a fuel filter, cleaned the outside of the engine, carb and frame with degreaser and now it's going real good. I took it out for a quick ride down the street today :spanking:

I did put 10W40 motorbike oil in the gearbox, but the clutch was slipping real bad. I did add the right amount (550ml, according to what is stamped on the side of the gearbox). I could have the clutch fully in, in 1st gear and give it a few revs and I could ride around slowly like that.

I then drained that oil out and put some Caltex 20W50 car oil in, and the clutch slip has almost completely disappeared. Now there's only very minor clutch slippage.

It's even got that nice powerband, early '70s style! It's my first 2 stroke apart from a 50cc scooter and a crappy Chinese 40cc dirt bike which ran very badly and couldn't even reach 20kmh.

[F5 Dave]

pop off the cover & you'll see the clutch pack. You can wind the springs in to get more pressure. Have to be careful with the retaining pins, you lever the spring up a bit & grab onto them with some pliers then its easy. dick around & they'll pingggg off to some dark corner.

[SS90]

pop off the cover & you'll see the clutch pack. You can wind the springs in to get more pressure. Have to be careful with the retaining pins, you lever the spring up a bit & grab onto them with some pliers then its easy. dick around & they'll pingggg off to some dark corner.

You can fashion an old wheel spoke to form a hook tool for this job, I still have the only one I ever made!

[F5 Dave]

yeah mine is the same, I built 3, for a mate & two toolboxes. you grind the spoke doofer on the sides & outer edge & then cut another few inches off the end of the long suffering broom handle & drill a counterbored hole in it for a puller handle that the nipple drops in.

[sugilite]

I think I used to run automatic transmission fluid in my gearbox of my old motocross two stokes, buggered if I can remember who told me to do it or why, but I never had any gear box/clutch issues.