View Full Version : Any one put RG150 chamber on a GP125?
Triplenut
22nd December 2011, 22:17
Hi All,
I'm finally about to enter the fast paced world of bucket racing to help fill the boring gaps between postie races.
A mate and I have gone halves in a GP125 which we are mildly tweeking and is nearly ready to go.
TZ350's ESE thread is a great source of info but i'm only up to page 60 of the thread, 300 pages to go!!
Our GP is running the stock pipe with the guts cut out of it which I doubt is doing the power any favours.
I've tried finding an RG250 or RM125 chamber as I understand these are suitable but no luck.
I've seen a an RG150 chamber on tardme it looks to be similar, any one tried one on a GP125 ? or any thoughts on whether its going to be better the a a gutted stocker?
Appreciate any thoughts from the experts.
Cheers
Red
koba
23rd December 2011, 06:21
Hi All,
I'm finally about to enter the fast paced world of bucket racing to help fill the boring gaps between postie races.
A mate and I have gone halves in a GP125 which we are mildly tweeking and is nearly ready to go.
TZ350's ESE thread is a great source of info but i'm only up to page 60 of the thread, 300 pages to go!!
Our GP is running the stock pipe with the guts cut out of it which I doubt is doing the power any favours.
I've tried finding an RG250 or RM125 chamber as I understand these are suitable but no luck.
I've seen a an RG150 chamber on tardme it looks to be similar, any one tried one on a GP125 ? or any thoughts on whether its going to be better the a a gutted stocker?
Appreciate any thoughts from the experts.
Cheers
Red
Sam Van Oosteram (Spelling?) from up Auckland way had a GP125 engine in an RG 150 frame. He used the RG pipe too.
It went quite well, about the same as a standard FXR or a little better.
I'm not sure if anything else was done to the motor or not.
jasonu
23rd December 2011, 12:41
Hi All,
I'm finally about to enter the fast paced world of bucket racing to help fill the boring gaps between postie races.
A mate and I have gone halves in a GP125 which we are mildly tweeking and is nearly ready to go.
TZ350's ESE thread is a great source of info but i'm only up to page 60 of the thread, 300 pages to go!!
Our GP is running the stock pipe with the guts cut out of it which I doubt is doing the power any favours.
I've tried finding an RG250 or RM125 chamber as I understand these are suitable but no luck.
I've seen a an RG150 chamber on tardme it looks to be similar, any one tried one on a GP125 ? or any thoughts on whether its going to be better the a a gutted stocker?
Appreciate any thoughts from the experts.
Cheers
Red
Pretty much guaranteed to be better than the stocker.
Triplenut
23rd December 2011, 19:12
Thanks for your input Gents, I'll give it a crack
Cheers
Red
Buckets4Me
24th December 2011, 09:22
Pretty much guaranteed to be better than the stocker.
you would say that but back before I inherated old #9 my stock engine and stock exaust (did get a full rebuild and clean up first. and the exaust was choped up a bit. mainly for groundf clearance) went as fast as any of the other E.S.E bikes
I wasnt going to change anything till one of them was faster (and then I stole the fast one 19 h/p with rg250w chamber). Now I'm waiting to rebuild that second engine and get up near 30 h/p :2thumbsup
Pumba
24th December 2011, 10:05
.......Now I'm waiting to rebuild that second engine and get up near 30 h/p :2thumbsup
Why bother. It has been a couple of seasons since I have seen it on the track:bleh:
koba
24th December 2011, 10:08
you would say that but back before I inherated old #9 my stock engine and stock exaust (did get a full rebuild and clean up first. and the exaust was choped up a bit. mainly for groundf clearance) went as fast as any of the other E.S.E bikes
I wasnt going to change anything till one of them was faster (and then I stole the fast one 19 h/p with rg250w chamber). Now I'm waiting to rebuild that second engine and get up near 30 h/p :2thumbsup
Ruapuna may be different though. Sam's one was frustratingly just a little bit faster than the FXR I was on.
TZ350
24th December 2011, 10:48
Now I'm waiting to rebuild that second engine and get up near 30 h/p :2thumbsup
Why bother. It has been a couple of seasons since I have seen it on the track:bleh:
Its been sitting at work for a while waiting for an upgrade, it might be time to get it sorted, as it could be a real weapon.
TZ350
24th December 2011, 10:56
I've seen a an RG150 chamber on tardme it looks to be similar, any one tried one on a GP125 ?
Sam Van Oosteram (Spelling?) from up Auckland way had a GP125 engine in an RG 150 frame. He used the RG pipe too. It went quite well, about the same as a standard FXR or a little better. I'm not sure if anything else was done to the motor or not.
Yes Sam and his Dad, Chris Van Oosterum, (they are from Hamilton) tried an RG150 pipe on their GP125 engine it went OK'ish but Chris says it was much better when they fitted a pipe from an Aprilia 125 road bike which is what they used with some mild Ex porting and both pipes were very heavy compaired to a purpose built chamber.
Triplenut
24th December 2011, 15:08
Hi TZ350, thanks for all the great info on your ESE post, very inspirational.
The guy I purchased the bike off gave me a template for a chamber that is suposedly ideal for the stock motor ( first pic) I'm hoping I can modify the RG chambers to closely match this rather than build a new one from scratch.
For now I want to keep motor largely stock for reliability.
2nd pick is the RG150 chamber just purchased from Petersales.
3rd pick is the beast, just finished rebuilding brakes/lines and forks, fork brace, crash protection. Next job rearsets, frame/swing arm bracing, stiifer shocks/ride height and seat.
This is probably a stupid question ( this is the first two stoke I've owned in 20 years) , does an expansion chamber usually require rejetting like a performance 4 stoke pipe would? or is it just more efficiently using what is already there?
Cheers
Red
253376253378253377
TZ350
24th December 2011, 15:22
does an expansion chamber usually require rejetting like a performance 4 stoke pipe would? or is it just more efficiently using what is already there?
Almost any change to anything requires a look at the jetting, when we ran Std GP carbs, over the different bikes the jetting ranged from 97.5, 105, 107.5 and 110 main jet. We used KX80 ignitions with no curve and the static timings were 20, 26, 23 and 16 deg BTDC and the fastest bike didn't have the bigest MJ or most advanced timing. The settings for each bike were sorted out on the dyno, so they were pretty close to the optimum in each case.
A common thing we find when dynoing friends bikes are engines with over advanced timing and jetted up to compensate, these feel fast on the track as they are peaky but a better setup with more hP and better curve feels flater, but on the track its faster.
Another trick we did with the GP's was to space the carb cover off by 4-5mm or the thickness of a 5mm nut. This was good for a hP in itself on our early bikes.
Buckets4Me
24th December 2011, 19:22
Another trick we did with the GP's was to space the carb cover off by 4-5mm or the thickness of a 5mm nut. This was good for a hP in itself on our early bikes.
not my one it lost topend power but gained more down low :drinkup:
Buckets4Me
24th December 2011, 19:22
Why bother. It has been a couple of seasons since I have seen it on the track:bleh:
shut up. Now go change a nappy or something will ya Wait till you have 4 of them and the oldest steals your bike :killingme
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/hd1KTkdW0k8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
TZ350
24th December 2011, 20:01
Another trick we did with the GP's was to space the carb cover off by 4-5mm or the thickness of a 5mm nut. This was good for a hP in itself on our early bikes. not my one it lost topend power but gained more down low :drinkup:
Yess odd that, all that we can say is, all were pretty much made to the same formula but no two ESE bikes worked out the same on the dyno .....
Triplenut
26th December 2011, 08:42
Carb spacer has been made and fitted thanks for the info.
And will definitely run the bike on the dyno to tune the jetting and timing. Last thing we want is to seize it on its first outing.
My partner in this bike has never ridden on the track so the broadest power we can get will be helpfull to his learning process (and probably mine).
I need to check out the carbs and rotary valve, I think this bike was a GP100 now fitted with a 125 head. Not sure if the previous owner changed the carb and valve as well as the head.
Cheers
Red
ellipsis
26th December 2011, 13:38
....you just keep it as standard as possible, its getting lonely down at the none too modified end of the track....
TZ350
26th December 2011, 13:57
Carb spacer has been made and fitted thanks for the info.
And will definitely run the bike on the dyno to tune the jetting and timing. Last thing we want is to seize it on its first outing.
My partner in this bike has never ridden on the track so the broadest power we can get will be helpfull to his learning process (and probably mine).
I need to check out the carbs and rotary valve, I think this bike was a GP100 now fitted with a 125 head. Not sure if the previous owner changed the carb and valve as well as the head.
Cheers
Red
Hi Red
There is a very std GP125 that goes very well here at Mt Welly.
The 100's 22mm carb rotary valve and rotary valve cover all need to be changed if you want a 125 24mm spec inlet, the cover and valve can be cut/ported and the carb bored out, or just swaped out for 125 ones. The engine number on the case will start with GP100 or GP125 depending on what size it was originaly.
Triplenut
27th December 2011, 11:42
....you just keep it as standard as possible, its getting lonely down at the none too modified end of the track....
Lookin forward to duelling Neil :) , we fully expect to be at the blunt end of the pack!
See you at the pre 89 cup
Cheers
Triplenut
27th December 2011, 11:58
Hi Red
There is a very std GP125 that goes very well here at Mt Welly.
The 100's 22mm carb rotary valve and rotary valve cover all need to be changed if you want a 125 24mm spec inlet, the cover and valve can be cut/ported and the carb bored out, or just swaped out for 125 ones. The engine number on the case will start with GP100 or GP125 depending on what size it was originaly.
Thanks, just checked out the cases, bottom end is definitely GP100.
Will check out the carb etc this arvo, it came with what he called a bigger carb so hopefully this is the 24mm one.
I'm up page 150 of your ESE post, great stuff!
You mentioned bracing the frame swing arm etc didn't really improve handling.
Our budget on this one doesn't allow for a donor frame, would you recommend bracing the frame and swing or am I wasting my time? Both riders are around 90kg so it'll be under a bit of pressure.
Cheers
Red
TZ350
27th December 2011, 18:19
TBH it seems that the more they were braced the worse they were, mine would chatter very violently front and back, it was so bad it would throw my feet of the pegs and hurt my back.
The one that was ridden the fastest was basically std, except for foot rest position, both had proper rims and slicks, never figured that out.
My guess is that resonable rear shocks and fresh oil in overhalled front forks would be a good start.
They are good till they let go, and if you have improved the point where they let go they let go more violently.
I think a basically std frame and attention to the suspension would give you a resonable ride.
TZ350
27th December 2011, 18:24
Thanks, just checked out the cases, bottom end is definitely GP100.
Will check out the carb etc this arvo, it came with what he called a bigger carb so hopefully this is the 24mm one.
I am glad your enjoying the thread. The rotary valve cover and valve are different too. The inlet on the 100's valve cover is about 22mm the 125 24mm, the 100 has (from memory) 135/35 inlet timing and the 125 145/55 both the valve and cover need to be changed/modified too.
100 on the left 125 right hand side in each picture.
Triplenut
27th December 2011, 20:43
I am glad your enjoying the thread. The rotary valve cover and valve are different too. The inlet on the 100's valve cover is about 22mm the 125 24mm, the 100 has (from memory) 135/35 inlet timing and the 125 145/55 both the valve and cover need to be changed/modified too.
100 on the left 125 right hand side in each picture.
Brilliant, thanks.
Bummer, looks like i've got GP100 rotary valve, cover and 22mm carb with a 125 barrel.
The bigger carb that came with bike is a 24mm but not from a GP and wont fit.
On the plus side I just hit the buy now on a 24mm GP125 carb on trademe :)
I'll run it like is for now until the carb and expansion chamber turns up then mod the 100 intake to 125 specs and tune accordingly.
Cheers
Triplenut
27th December 2011, 20:48
TBH it seems that the more they were braced the worse they were, mine would chatter very violently front and back, it was so bad it would throw my feet of the pegs and hurt my back.
The one that was ridden the fastest was basically std, except for foot rest position, both had proper rims and slicks, never figured that out.
My guess is that resonable rear shocks and fresh oil in overhalled front forks would be a good start.
They are good till they let go, and if you have improved the point where they let go they let go more violently.
I think a basically std frame and attention to the suspension would give you a resonable ride.
Thanks will focus on suspension.
We are running treaded race compound tyres on standard rims, given they are about the size of mountan bike tyres I doubt the grip generated will tax the frame to much or inspire banzai riding .
Buckets4Me
28th December 2011, 11:42
Thanks will focus on suspension.
We are running treaded race compound tyres on standard rims, given they are about the size of mountan bike tyres I doubt the grip generated will tax the frame to much or inspire banzai riding .
tz350 first bucket had dunlop tt900 (race compound tyres) and it would shake so bad he would get it sidways out of corners :woohoo:
start looking for 17 inch rims with 36 holes or a sait of motard rims 2.5 and 3 or 3.5 inches
Triplenut
28th December 2011, 18:39
tz350 first bucket had dunlop tt900 (race compound tyres) and it would shake so bad he would get it sidways out of corners :woohoo:
start looking for 17 inch rims with 36 holes or a sait of motard rims 2.5 and 3 or 3.5 inches
Cheers Buckets, your right but rather than spend to much on wheels etc now, we'll probably follow team ESE's lead and save up for a better chassis next year. Maybe FZR, RG, what ever we can get cheap.
Hopefully this will cure all the handling and grip issues we are likely to encounter in one cost effective sweep.
Or maybe build a frame like the Waddon frame in the race chassis thread, looks cool.
Cheers
Red
TZ350
28th December 2011, 19:07
I'll run it like is for now until the carb and expansion chamber turns up then mod the 100 intake to 125 specs and tune accordingly.
Good plan, bike should run ok as it is. Good starting point anyway. The FZR250 3LN comes with decent wheels 2.75x17F and 3.5x17R which are near perfect for slicks. Early TZR are slightly narrower at 2.15x17F and 2.5x17R and only just OK ish for slicks.
Triplenut
11th March 2012, 15:20
Thanks to everyone for their advice.
I've used what I understood from the TeeZees thread ( about 1%) and finally got the disc and ports reshaped, 24mm mikuni carb fitted and the RG150 chamber cut, welded and tweeked to fit.
Spaced and modified the carb cover for a bit more flow.
The RG pipe JUST clears the front wheel, kickstart and JUST misses the ground when laid over so hopefully will be all good.
I made my own silencer which looks like it belongs on a bucket:laugh:
Have started rich with a 115main but doesn't feel to bad.
First run up our cul de sac was very pleasing( for me not the neighbours) on the set of the pants dyno.
Prior to these mods I could only just get to 4th before I had to brake, with the mods above I hit redline in top:yes: before realising how crap the brakes are.
It revs a lot faster, has a good botom end, flattens a bit in the middle then really good top end that wants 2 revs way past redline if you let it.
Dyno will tell the tale but I'm guessing a 40% increase in power over its strangled previous state.
I'll try to get it properly tuned and first outing will at the Methven Street races at Easter, cant wait.
Also just purchased the next stage of evolution, picked up a 88-89 RGV250 rolling chassis for $150. Haven't picked it up yet but hoping it will be suitable? .
Looking forward to better brakes at least.
Cheers
Red
ellipsis
11th March 2012, 16:53
I'll try to get it properly tuned and first outing will at the Methven Street races at Easter, cant wait. Cheers, Red
...i better go and rub a damp cloth over mine then....
TZ350
11th March 2012, 18:40
Looks good, please keep us posted, its very interesting to see how someone else is getting on with a stroker especialy a Suzuki GP.
Triplenut
12th March 2012, 20:41
...i better go and rub a damp cloth over mine then....
Your talking about your bike I presume? :laugh: See you down there mate.
Thanks for the inspiration TZ.
Picked up the RGV rolling frame tonight, looks like a bargain and not as heavy as I thought it might be. Should keep me out of trouble over winter.
A question for the wise
What sort of revs can I safely(ish) go to to with a stock GP125 bottom end, I know redline is 8K but this one seems to be making good power well past that.
Am I asking for trouble going past 8K without improving the rods, bearings etc?
Cheers
Red
bucketracer
12th March 2012, 21:04
Team ESE did run some std GP rods for a while, they were spinning them up to 10-11,000 and they lasted pretty well, and now Suzuki have a universal rod kit for all the 125 motors that is good enough to be used in the early RM's so that could be the go. TZ went to RGV250 rods for the 16mm pin and the better/easier range of pistons available with the bigger pin.
koba
12th March 2012, 21:06
Your talking about your bike I presume? :laugh: See you down there mate.
Thanks for the inspiration TZ.
Picked up the RGV rolling frame tonight, looks like a bargain and not as heavy as I thought it might be. Should keep me out of trouble over winter.
A question for the wise
What sort of revs can I safely(ish) go to to with a stock GP125 bottom end, I know redline is 8K but this one seems to be making good power well past that.
Am I asking for trouble going past 8K without improving the rods, bearings etc?
Cheers
Red
More than 8 will be fine, to a point. Where that point is will be better answerd by TZ.
The main condition to this is the condition of the parts.
If they have sat about and have a bit of rust formed on the big-end pin/rollers it will fall to pieces very rapidly.
It's a really good idea to put a new rod-kit in it before you use it as a race machine. The up-front cost of doing so may look steep but it is money well spent;you should get reliability and piece of mind.
The ESE guys run a different setup, I'm sure TZ will elaborate. You will have to decide to go straight to something different or retain the stock setup to start with.
F5 Dave
13th March 2012, 08:56
+1. Learnt the hard way several times I used to buy old engines for my race 50s, but they always used to do big ends. Until I rebuilt the crank with new bits.
koba
13th March 2012, 17:06
+1. Learnt the hard way several times I used to buy old engines for my race 50s, but they always used to do big ends. Until I rebuilt the crank with new bits.
Your experience is where that comes from, although I've had a brush with it myself when I pulled my motor apart to find a blued rod. Damn lucky I got to that in time.
Buckets4Me
13th March 2012, 18:15
A question for the wise
What sort of revs can I safely(ish) go to to with a stock GP125 bottom end, I know redline is 8K but this one seems to be making good power well past that.
Am I asking for trouble going past 8K without improving the rods, bearings etc?
Cheers
Red
Have you thought about the ignition as the standard gp125 is very big and heavy
that was one of the first things changed on the early TZ bikes before Team E.S.E was around
mx type (kx80 ?) then the igniteck after
Triplenut
13th March 2012, 18:21
Thanks Gents,
I checked the rod when I had the barrel off, Not properly but it all looked to be fairly new with no obvious slop.
I'll run it as is with a little care for now and plan on finding one of those suzuki rod kits as soon as I can so I can rev it out properly.
Cheers
Red
Triplenut
13th March 2012, 18:24
Have you thought about the ignition as the standard gp125 is very big and heavy
that was one of the first things changed on the early TZ bikes before Team E.S.E was around
mx type (kx80 ?) then the igniteck after
I haven't done anything to the ignition other than clean and time it to stock.
Keen to upgrade but my electrical skills are fairly suspect.
How hard is it to updrade to the KX80?
TZ350
13th March 2012, 18:48
259702 259703
The Kawasaki KX80 ignitions, pretty much go straight in if you get this kind. The flyweel bolts straight on and the timing marks even line up, the only trick is to use a piece of welding wire bent into a circle and laid in the stator recess to centralise the stator plate. You may be able to see the small packers in the picture, a piece of welding wire is easier.
Triplenut
14th March 2012, 18:03
259702 259703
The Kawasaki KX80 ignitions, pretty much go straight in if you get this kind. The flyweel bolts straight on and the timing marks even line up, the only trick is to use a piece of welding wire bent into a circle and laid in the stator recess to centralise the stator plate. You may be able to see the small packers in the picture, a piece of welding wire is easier.
Cheers, to reasy even for my muppet electrimacal skills.
I'll keep an eye out for one, any ideas what year KX ?
TZ350
14th March 2012, 19:46
I'll keep an eye out for one, any ideas what year KX ?
No I don't know what years, but its the shape of the stator thats important, the fully round stator needs some machining to make it fit and the CDI for the round stator has a retard curve that does not suit the GP.
saxet
15th March 2012, 19:11
A few pics for triplenut to give some idea as to how I put aGP125 motor into a RGV250 frame.
The funny looking bracket by the wood pile is the front hanger I made up minus the actual engine mount brackets which got cannabilised for another project.
Triplenut
16th March 2012, 18:01
A few pics for triplenut to give some idea as to how I put aGP125 motor into a RGV250 frame.
The funny looking bracket by the wood pile is the front hanger I made up minus the actual engine mount brackets which got cannabilised for another project.
Thanks once again Tex, much appreciated.
Gives me some ideas for a starting point.
I was initially thinking maybe I could get away without the front mount if the upper and lower rears were stong enough. Its hard to know until you try.
I take it there were no ill affects from tilting the engine forward ? like bearings/gears running out of oil etc.
Cheers
Red
saxet
17th March 2012, 17:26
No prolems at all with tilting the engine, even the carb seemed fine in my experience.
I had to hoist the front of the bike up when changing the oil to get the engine level so I could fill it accurately.
Only the lower rear engine mount was solid, the upper rear wasn't that resistant to flex.
I took the cheap option for the upper mount as I was paying someone two weld it.
jasonu
17th March 2012, 17:33
+1. Learnt the hard way several times I used to buy old engines for my race 50s, but they always used to do big ends. Until I rebuilt the crank with new bits.
Yep I blew 2 TF125 big ends in a weekend using old crap. Speedpro still brings it up every now and again. Rebuilt cranks are the only way to go.
Triplenut
3rd April 2012, 20:04
You'll probably piss yourselves but I've managed to convince myself its done in the true spirit of bucket racing. :nya:
Need to save $ for a crank rebuild.
Was trying to stiffin the front end as my rebuilt brakes are causing the front end to all but bottom out.
Decided to fit a rear shock spring to the forks, that was to stiff and a bit like a pogo stick on rebound.
So I removed the fork springs added some heavy oil to give it a chance of some damping and bolted the shortened spring in place.
I know its primitive, ugly and not even vaguely technically correct but the net result is significantly stiffer forks that act mostly like forks should, well old shitty forks.
Have balanced it out with stiffer rear shocks and I figure it'll only feel hinged in the middle not both ends.
Find out this weekend at Methven Street races
Cheers
Red
Buckets4Me
3rd April 2012, 20:20
You'll probably piss yourselves but I've managed to convince myself its done in the true spirit of bucket racing. :nya:
Need to save $ for a crank rebuild.
Was trying to stiffin the front end as my rebuilt brakes are causing the front end to all but bottom out.
Decided to fit a rear shock spring to the forks, that was to stiff and a bit like a pogo stick on rebound.
So I removed the fork springs added some heavy oil to give it a chance of some damping and bolted the shortened spring in place.
I know its primitive, ugly and not even vaguely technically correct but the net result is significantly stiffer forks that act mostly like forks should, well old shitty forks.
Have balanced it out with stiffer rear shocks and I figure it'll only feel hinged in the middle not both ends.
Find out this weekend at Methven Street races
Cheers
Red
if it works :eek5:
we used gt185 frount forks and brakes on the early gp's
Triplenut
4th April 2012, 18:07
Well it seems to, didn't really want to spend any $$ on the frame as the RGV chassis will be the next home of the motor.
Was the GT front end an easy swap?, My 13r old son is keen to inherit the current bucket chassis and have a go with the spare 100 motor I have.
Cheers
Red
Yow Ling
4th April 2012, 18:50
Well it seems to, didn't really want to spend any $$ on the frame as the RGV chassis will be the next home of the motor.
Was the GT front end an easy swap?, My 13r old son is keen to inherit the current bucket chassis and have a go with the spare 100 motor I have.
Cheers
Red
I have a spare bucket if he wants to have a thrash around
timg
4th April 2012, 19:06
I have a spare bucket if he wants to have a thrash around
Just the one?? :)
Triplenut
4th April 2012, 19:39
I have a spare bucket if he wants to have a thrash around
Cheers for the offer Mike:yes: very generous, Hes only ridden a bike a couple of times but comes to all the races and is dead keen.
Catch up with you at Methven for a chat and a beer?
Cheers
Buckets4Me
4th April 2012, 19:55
Was the GT front end an easy swap?, My 13r old son is keen to inherit the current bucket chassis and have a go with the spare 100 motor I have.
Cheers
Red
just unbolt the head stock and slide it all over into the gp125
was a few years ago but I think it was that easy
TZ350
4th April 2012, 20:46
Yes, forks and tripple clamps are a direct swap, if you wan't to do it easy you need to also use the GT wheel, disk and caliper as the GT axel is bigger and the brgs cant be changed, (odd sizes). Also the GP brake caliper and disk are smaller and mounted in a different place on the fork leg.
A complete front end swap is easy, swapping just the forks and tripple clamps then getting the old wheel to fit is hard.
ellipsis
5th April 2012, 01:10
...have a nsr subframe or a zxr rolling frame, if you want get all serious and leave the highly unmodified end before you even get there Red...catch you saturday...:)
Triplenut
5th April 2012, 15:34
...have a nsr subframe or a zxr rolling frame, if you want get all serious and leave the highly unmodified end before you even get there Red...catch you saturday...:)
Cant wait Neil 2 sleeps :scooter: havent ridden since Jan.
Been sitting on the bikes in the shed making engine noises for weeks
New tyres on the triple so I'll be unstoppable in pre82, well until the hay bales:blink:
Cheers TZ350, Buckets4me, will keep an eye out for the front end sounds nice and easy.
Later
Triplenut
9th April 2012, 10:01
Like every other racer I spoke to had a fantastic day at Methven street races.
Big thanks to CAMS and the Methven Lions.
According to my pit crew got 3 7ths & a 6th in pre 82 against some much faster machines and riders.
My first bucket race and it was probably the most fun I've had with my pants on in years:woohoo:
Although my son advised me I look a dork on the bike, I'm a bit big for it apparently:facepalm:
Finished 5th or 6th to last in all bucket races and only got lapped by the 2 fastest riders in the last few corners of each race.
The good:
Bike was much faster than an RG50 and could keep up with some of the FXR's in a straight line
Power was good up top 7- 10k+
Stiffened suspension gave a suprisingly good ride
Skinny tyres gripped well and allowed easy line changes
Brakes better than expected and stopping was = to other bikes I rode with
The bad:
Bike running a bit rich & with a quarter turn throttle was requiring lots of carefull throttle and clutch to stop bogging - or maybe its my lack of 2T riding time & jumping from a 900cc 4T triple on to a 125:scooter:
RG pipe touched down once on the only left hand corner.
Going to play with the mainjets and needle to sort richness & cant wait to do it again.
Cheers
Red
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.