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View Full Version : Any long distance tips? Riding from Wellington to Auckland and back this week



Rajol
20th February 2012, 11:38
Riding up to Auckland for a conference and to visit a friend before riding all the way to Dunedin :O

I don't really think I'm good enough for the trip (just a bloody newbie)

My bike is really comfortable, and I plan to stop every 200km ~ or so

I bought a 720 HD action motorbike camera and 32gb sd card, so I can record the whole trip and upload on youtube for you guys to review my riding skills

-

Any tips??? Ahhh

Just gonna ride along state highway 1, from wellington, over rimutakas, straight through.

Rajol
20th February 2012, 11:40
These are dates if anyone can join me???

24th February: Wellington to Auckland
27th February: Auckland to Wellington
29th February: Wellington to Christchurch/Dunedin (most probably stay night in Christchurch)(this date is unsure, still haven't booked interislander)

baffa
20th February 2012, 11:44
I can just imagine it now. A 9+ hour video of you riding straight roads. Sounds tempting.

Check ur tyres and chain etc before each leg, and give yourself plenty of breaks. There is nothing to long distance riding, but it is very tiring.

oneofsix
20th February 2012, 11:50
Riding up to Auckland for a conference and to visit a friend before riding all the way to Dunedin :O

I don't really think I'm good enough for the trip (just a bloody newbie)

My bike is really comfortable, and I plan to stop every 200km ~ or so

I bought a 720 HD action motorbike camera and 32gb sd card, so I can record the whole trip and upload on youtube for you guys to review my riding skills

-

Any tips??? Ahhh

Just gonna ride along state highway 1, from wellington, over rimutakas, straight through.

Me thinks you are lost if you think you are going up SH1 by going over the Rimutakas. That be SH2. Try up the gorge and via the coastal parking lot, don't forget to turn right in Bulls for SH1.

Rajol
20th February 2012, 11:50
I can just imagine it now. A 9+ hour video of you riding straight roads. Sounds tempting.

.

Gonna speed it up of course, for the boring bits, slow it down for rimutakas and anything else that may be interesting and not just normal riding

Rajol
20th February 2012, 11:51
Check ur tyres and chain etc before each leg, and give yourself plenty of breaks. There is nothing to long distance riding, but it is very tiring.

Need to get my chain checked

Checked my tyres yesterday -.- 10 lbs of pressure in front tire
pumped it up to 40

lol

FJRider
20th February 2012, 12:05
Riding up to Auckland for a conference and to visit a friend before riding all the way to Dunedin :O

Any tips??? Ahhh

Just gonna ride along state highway 1, from wellington, over rimutakas, straight through.

Tip (1) The Rimutaka's is NOT on highway one.
Tip (2) Leave the camera at home. Get riding skills and experience FIRST.
Tip (3) You do know Dunedin is on the "other" island.
Tip (4) Avoid highway one. Not really learner friendly.

Jay GTI
20th February 2012, 12:07
Padded cycle shorts under your riding gear helps with numb-bum-itis on the longer rides. Even the most comfy seat gets painful if you've been in the saddle for a few straight hours.

oneofsix
20th February 2012, 12:11
Tip (4) Avoid highway one. Not really learner friendly.

North Island +1 except I would drop the word 'learner'. Sh2 would be more enjoyable, less traffic, more to focus on.

Picton to Dunedin a learner might be safer on SH1 or at least the East coast but by the time he has done Akld and back he might be ready for the Buller Gorge and Coast road. time would be a factor in the South Island leg.

FJRider
20th February 2012, 12:18
Need to get my chain checked

Checked my tyres yesterday -.- 10 lbs of pressure in front tire
pumped it up to 40

lol

Check it after a ride when the tyre is warm. It will have increased in pressure by then.

Rajol
20th February 2012, 12:24
Check it after a ride when the tyre is warm. It will have increased in pressure by then.

Damn, didn't think of that,

does the temperature make a significant difference in pressure? on the order of 10lbs?

make I should deflate it to 35 or something

Rajol
20th February 2012, 12:25
North Island +1 except I would drop the word 'learner'. Sh2 would be more enjoyable, less traffic, more to focus on.

Picton to Dunedin a learner might be safer on SH1 or at least the East coast but by the time he has done Akld and back he might be ready for the Buller Gorge and Coast road. time would be a factor in the South Island leg.

May consider SH2

:)

FJRider
20th February 2012, 12:26
Damn, didn't think of that,

does the temperature make a significant difference in pressure? on the order of 10lbs?

make I should deflate it to 35 or something

Just check it after a ride. Adjust to suit.

release_the_bees
20th February 2012, 12:30
Tip (4) Avoid highway one. Not really learner friendly.

Same as above. If you are feeling confident on your way back, and feel like a different route, I would highly recommend the following:

http://g.co/maps/d6fxm

It is my preferred way of getting between Auckland and Masterton, which I do 3-4 times per year.

Rajol
20th February 2012, 12:34
Same as above. If you are feeling confident on your way back, and feel like a different route, I would highly recommend the following:

http://g.co/maps/vfm7v

It is my preferred way of getting between Auckland and Masterton, which I do 3-4 times per year.

Yeah that's probably going to be the route i'll take

I've driven that way before, it was nice

FJRider
20th February 2012, 12:36
It is my preferred way of getting between Auckland and Masterton, which I do 3-4 times per year.

I just prefer to avoid Auckland. Has worked so far. Each to his own I guess ... ;)

release_the_bees
20th February 2012, 12:36
Yeah that's probably going to be the route i'll take

I've driven that way before, it was nice


Minor update to the route I just posted:
http://g.co/maps/d6fxm

The Woodville Gorge is closed at the moment.

oneofsix
20th February 2012, 12:42
Minor update to the route I just posted:
http://g.co/maps/d6fxm

The Woodville Gorge is closed at the moment.

Woodville Gorge? must find that one :innocent: I know the Manawatu Gorge (closed) and Balance one but haven't found the Woodville one :whistle:
Makes little difference, uses Soldiers Rd from Ashurst or Pahiatua track from Aokautere.

insomnia01
20th February 2012, 12:46
regular breaks ( I mate these up with my fuel stops ) stay hydrated by drinking water NOT caffine based drinks ( water works best over coffee etc,etc ) relax & enjoy yourself cause its a LLoooonnnggg ride buddy

release_the_bees
20th February 2012, 12:48
Woodville Gorge? must find that one :innocent: I know the Manawatu Gorge (closed) and Balance one but haven't found the Woodville one :whistle:
Makes little difference, uses Soldiers Rd from Ashurst or Pahiatua track from Aokautere.

I thought that might be coming. That's what happens when I post during worktime!

oneofsix
20th February 2012, 12:52
I thought that might be coming. That's what happens when I post during worktime!

The opportunity was much appreciated. ;) but hopefully there was also some value add.

FJRider
20th February 2012, 12:54
The advice I give to inexperienced riders is simple.

Start as early as you deem comfortable. Leave your watch in your pocket.
Only two things to think about ... Where you will get your next tank of gas. AND ... the hundred metres directly in front of you.

JustNick
20th February 2012, 13:00
The advice I give to inexperienced riders is simple.

Start as early as you deem comfortable. Leave your watch in your pocket.
Only two things to think about ... Where you will get your next tank of gas. AND ... the hundred metres directly in front of you.

As above, know your bike's fuel range and plan your fuel stops accordingly. If you are travelling at night, do your research and find out what fuel servo's are open late or 24 hours.

Rajol
20th February 2012, 13:26
As above, know your bike's fuel range and plan your fuel stops accordingly. If you are travelling at night, do your research and find out what fuel servo's are open late or 24 hours.

Apparently my bikes sprocket was changed from standard, so i get 180km per tank instead of the original 250km, but in turn I get more acceleration/speed for a 250cc bike (it goes to 140 apparently, though i've only done 110~120)

my reserve hold abouts 1/3 of the fuel so gets me about 50km (low estimation, just incase of hills ect...)

so i'll be making plenty of stops,


Wellington to bulls, gas/break,
Bulls to Waiouru, gas/break
Waiouru to taumaranui, gas/break
taumaranui to otrohanga, gas/break
otrohanga to huntly, gas/break
huntly to auckland, gas/break

And back again

For the south island, i've driven up and down it a million times (in a car), so no troubles with that

FJRider
20th February 2012, 13:50
Apparently my bikes sprocket was changed from standard, so i get 180km per tank instead of the original 250km, but in turn I get more acceleration/speed for a 250cc bike (it goes to 140 apparently, though i've only done 110~120)

my reserve hold abouts 1/3 of the fuel so gets me about 50km (low estimation, just incase of hills ect...)

And back again

If the distance capable out of a tankful is reduced due to sprocket changes ... the bike has been geared down. Top speed is then LESS than standard. Higher revs at the same speeds ... but it wont increase your speed available. (Good around town though) More fuel used. Find a hand held GPS unit to check actual speed/reading on your speedo. It may be out.


For the south island, i've driven up and down it a million times (in a car), so no troubles with that

Try the Inland Kaikoura/Waiou/Culverton/Waipara jun. route

insomnia01
20th February 2012, 13:50
Instead of going to Waiouru from Bulls why not head to Whanganui & head up the para's !! :yes::yes::yes: just my 2cents worth

cowboyz
20th February 2012, 14:38
there is no real secret to long distance riding. just basic rules.

1.. stack up the ks when your feeling good. rest when your not. dont get set on... I have to make x place by x time. Its your trip.. you can stop anytime you want.
2. keep your speed down. Riding fast is tiring. Ride a a speed that you are comfortable with. one you can maintain without being on the edge of your seat
3. Making good time is more about just being on the bike than getting anywhere quickly. If your comfortable, enjoying yourself and keep moving.. you will be surprised how quickly the ks disappear behind you.
4. DRINK AND EAT! Its surprising how many forget the basics.
5. enjoy it! Dont stress! Dont worry!

FJRider
20th February 2012, 15:30
Instead of going to Waiouru from Bulls why not head to Whanganui & head up the para's !! :yes::yes::yes: just my 2cents worth

+1 on that ... I've always found that the BEST veiw of Waiouru ... is seen in your REAR vision mirror. (in my own personal opinion)

Trade_nancy
20th February 2012, 15:58
Depends on bike of course..but isn't 40Lb a lot for a front tyre? 36 PSI is maximum for my road bike. Procedure I have been taught is to check and fill your tyres COLD..and recheck when warm. Warmly inflated tyres will give a false indication of pressure. Measure the diff and the % diff between cold fill and warm fill will tell you if the psi you are inflating to is correct for your tyre. This link is one of many references to that:
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/tires-tyres.htm
Checking Tire Inflation

-Check your tire air pressure at least once a week and before long trips. Be sure to use an accurate pressure gauge.
-Check your air pressure when the tires are "cold." The tires are "cold" when your motorcycle has been ridden less than a mile at moderate speed or after being stopped for three or more hours.
-If you must add air when your tires are hot, add four pounds per square inch (4 psi)(28 kPa) above the recommended cold inflation pressure. Recheck the inflation pressure when the tire is cold.
-Never release air from a hot tire in order to reach the recommended cold tire pressure. -Normal riding causes tires to run hotter and inflation pressure to increase. If you release air when your tires are hot, you may dangerously under inflate your tires.
-If your tires lose more than two pounds per square inch (2 psi)(14 kPa) per month, the tire, the valve, or wheel may be damaged. Consult your local dealer for an inspection.
-Use valve caps to keep valve cores clean, clear of debris and to help guard against air leakage.

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 16:09
Just missing me im doing welly picton 25th ,27th to ChCh,29th ChCh to Dunedin.3rd Dunedin to March Hare Rally.

idd be 32pounds cold aiming for 36 when they heat up your on a light bike so 4 degree increase is good

Madness
20th February 2012, 16:12
If I was riding a Keeway from Welly to D'Aucks (which I wouldn't) I'd be sticking to main Highways, just in case :innocent:

gatch
20th February 2012, 16:22
If you plan on deviating from SH1 at all, you should take a sawn off shot gun.

If you stay on SH1, take at least a large knife. Preferably with a gutting hook on the back.

You know, just in case..

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 16:24
If you plan on deviating from SH1 at all, you should take a sawn off shot gun.

If you stay on SH1, take at least a large knife. Preferably with a gutting hook on the back.

You know, just in case..


I guess 110-120 wont outrun bandits now that they all drive stolen wrxs

Berries
20th February 2012, 17:25
Any tips??? Ahhh.
If you're not confident, which I pick you aren't, I'd then leave the camera at home and concentrate on your riding.

sinfull
20th February 2012, 18:40
Depends on bike of course..but isn't 40Lb a lot for a front tyre?

Thank fuck someone said it and didn't just worry about his arse being Dumb ! I mean Numb

Learn about ya bloody bike before ya go off half cocked making a video to show us how good ya are at riding the highways ! What tyres do ya have on it ? What pressure do the tyres manufacturer recomend for the weight of your bike ? Are you going to carry chain lube for that chain you don't even know how to adjust ? Hows the oil doing, if you let tyre pressures get down to 10 psi ? When was an oil and filter change done before you go off and do another 2-2.500 kM

Have a look at the specs i pulled up in awww 30 seconds on google !
Tells me two or three things
Your bike only does 115 kp/h from new, don't expect it to have an aftermarket sproket that has changed the gearing !
Your fuel economy is up shit creak, the specs tell me it should do 33.3 km per lt or 3 lt per 100 km, out of a 9 ltr tank sort of hits the 300k mark, your only getting 180 ks per tank, so your either thrashing the hell out of that wee bike, or the dude ya bought it off has fucked with it and changed the pipes and or fettled with the carb ! ORRR ya aint checked the air filter

Jesus man i'd even bet you a thousand dollars you havent found the radiator cap yet !! Sheeesh !


Model: Keeway Supershadow 250
Year: 2008
Category: Sport
Rating: 72.5 out of 100.
Engine and transmission
Displacement: 248.00 ccm (15.13 cubic inches)
Engine type: Twin, four-stroke
Power: 17.70 HP (12.9 kW)) @ 7500 RPM
Top speed: 115 kp/h (71.5 mph)
Fuel system: Carburettor
Cooling system: Air
Gearbox: 5-speed
Fuel consumption: 3.00 litres/100 km (33.3 km/l or 78.41 mpg)
Greenhouse gases: 69.6 CO2 g/km. (CO2 – Carbon dioxide emission)
Exhaust system: Euro 2
Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels
Front tyre dimensions: 110/90-18
Rear tyre dimensions: 130/90-15
Front brakes: Single disc
Rear brakes: Expanding brake (drum brake)
Physical measures and capacities
Dry weight: 140.0 kg (308.6 pounds)
Power/weight ratio: 0.1264 HP/kg
Overall height: 1,145 mm (45.1 inches)
Overall length: 2,225 mm (87.6 inches)
Overall width: 760 mm (29.9 inches)
Ground clearance: 165 mm (6.5 inches)
Fuel capacity: 9.00 litres (2.38 gallons)
Other specifications
Starter: Electric
Color options: Red, blac

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 18:59
Thank fuck someone said it and didn't just worry about his arse being Dumb ! I mean Numb

Learn about ya bloody bike before ya go off half cocked making a video to show us how good ya are at riding the highways ! What tyres do ya have on it ? What pressure do the tyres manufacturer recomend for the weight of your bike ? Are you going to carry chain lube for that chain you don't even know how to adjust ? Hows the oil doing, if you let tyre pressures get down to 10 psi ? When was an oil and filter change done before you go off and do another 2-2.500 kM

Have a look at the specs i pulled up in awww 30 seconds on google !
Tells me two or three things
Your bike only does 115 kp/h from new, don't expect it to have an aftermarket sproket that has changed the gearing !
Your fuel economy is up shit creak, the specs tell me it should do 33.3 km per lt or 3 lt per 100 km, out of a 9 ltr tank sort of hits the 300k mark, your only getting 180 ks per tank, so your either thrashing the hell out of that wee bike, or the dude ya bought it off has fucked with it and changed the pipes and or fettled with the carb ! ORRR ya aint checked the air filter

Jesus man i'd even bet you a thousand dollars you havent found the radiator cap yet !! Sheeesh !




dont go to hard out on him hes fishing for guidance.
Its possible the speed is limited by the low horsepower and not the sprocket ratio(same result higher revs).Or the last seller said gearing changed but wasnt(Inexperienced rider soaks info like sponge and has no reason to doubt it).
Last rider had tires at 10pounds and someone said 40 is good so in goes 40.
Idd love to have a record of my first road trip to look at.If its outa distraction sight and can run 9hrs without fiddling is it harming him.

I got 3 spare cans of chain lube and time to help him set his tires and adjust his chain if he pms me.

sinfull
20th February 2012, 19:06
dont go to hard out on him hes fishing for guidance.
Its possible the speed is limited by the low horsepower and not the sprocket ratio(same result higher revs).Or the last seller said gearing changed but wasnt(Inexperienced rider soaks info like sponge and has no reason to doubt it).
Last rider had tires at 10pounds and someone said 40 is good so in goes 40.
Idd love to have a record of my first road trip to look at.If its outa distraction sight and can run 9hrs without fiddling is it harming him.

I got 3 spare cans of chain lube and time to help him set his tires and adjust his chain if he pms me.


Sounds like the sort of bloke that might react well to being called stupid, worked for me with my first bike and old man, he might just get his shit together now and PM ya for that offer of help just so he can come back one day and blow my lack of knowledge to the weeds !

But I re read his post about the sprocket change and the guy who sold it to him said he changed it so now it will do 140 k instead of the 115 Yes ?
So why then is the economy so up the shit i do wonder ? Should be better with the longer legs ! I smell a back yard mechanic rat

FJRider
20th February 2012, 19:20
But I re read his post about the sprocket change and the guy who sold it to him said he changed it so now it will do 140 k instead of the 115 Yes ?
So why then is the economy so up the shit i do wonder ? Should be better with the longer legs ! I smell a back yard mechanic rat

To quote him ...

Apparently my bikes sprocket was changed from standard, so i get 180km per tank instead of the original 250km, but in turn I get more acceleration/speed for a 250cc bike (it goes to 140 apparently, though i've only done 110~120)

It's a long way (on a 250) from 110/120 up to 140 ... it's been geared down, not up.

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 19:38
To quote him ...

Apparently my bikes sprocket was changed from standard, so i get 180km per tank instead of the original 250km, but in turn I get more acceleration/speed for a 250cc bike (it goes to 140 apparently, though i've only done 110~120)

It's a long way (on a 250) from 110/120 up to 140 ... it's been geared down, not up.

So we can say the guy that sold it was fulla poo
Its possible gearing down retains same approx top speed due to low hp not being able to get the bike going any quicker but that would ruin fuel economy.Also the 180km may not include reserve which may mean only 6-7 litres fuel used so might be 250 with reserve on nasty revs causing 50km loss of economy.

Truth being it would be easier to have a look and see what evils the bike has and get him pointed in the correct direction before his adventure.

Everyone falls foul to bad information at some point.

If the bike is over reving to do 100km idd think changing ratio before said trip to stock would be vital for engine protection alone.

sinfull
20th February 2012, 19:39
To quote him ...

Apparently my bikes sprocket was changed from standard, so i get 180km per tank instead of the original 250km, but in turn I get more acceleration/speed for a 250cc bike (it goes to 140 apparently, though i've only done 110~120)

It's a long way (on a 250) from 110/120 up to 140 ... it's been geared down, not up. Yup

You can see the contradiction in his quote, in one breath he's saying i get less out of my tank and more ecceleration ! Then in the next breath he's saying it has more top end !

So has it been geared up or down FJ haha

My bet it has higher gearing if he's doing 110-120 clicks with more throttle to go, seeing the stock bike only does 115 k and he just hasn't experienced the accelleration of standard gearing on it

So that leaves the question, where is the gas going ?

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_sprocketmath.html

The link is for the OP to more understand gearing

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 19:45
i think its been geared down(4 tooth up on rear)runs same speed(new owner claims 110-120 was only old owner claiming 140)but just at higher revs as the low hp couldnt pull bike any faster in the original gearing.Explains the low economy due to higher rpm for same speed top end.

But its all just based on the info of a newer rider and the overstated, overinflated truth bender that sold it to him.

Facts

A-Power: 17.70 HP (12.9 kW)) @ 7500 RPM
B-weight 140kg claimed plus fuel and rider
C-rider 6foot3 as per his looking for gear add(not small guy)

Possibles

A-new owner was riding on 10 pound tires
B-180km may have not included reserve
C-bike may have bad tune
D-old owners claim 140 very likely crap

C-new owner claim 110-120 on clock may be max speed capable due to FACTS above.
E-new owner may twist throttle alot

Recommendations

New owner finds out more about bike before goes on road trip.Perhaps puts gearing back to stock.Rides for a hour or hour and half lets bike have a rest.Oil and filter change advised.Lube chain every 300km on trip.Mounts camera in a area that it wont distract and cant be adjusted while riding.Makes a effort to ride safe.
ENJOYS the trip.

jaffaonajappa
20th February 2012, 19:53
Without getting too technical....as that has already been done.

For a new newbie.

1. Check ur weather forecast and watch out for high winds.
2. Have a really good check of your drivetrain and brakes - as mentioned already, tyre pressures and chain tension is kinda important lol.
3. Ride at your own pace. Be prepared to spend 10 hours or more fro Welly to Aucks. In fact.....
4. Be prepared to overnight stop in Taupo / Tokoroa / Hamilton even if needed. If you are exhausted after 10 hours, and not at your destination.....seriously thnk about stopping and sleeping (Im guessing you have sweet dark all real riding experience - so you Will tire quickly).
5. Beware after the 1t couple of hours - getting too relaxed and attention starts to wander. Don't fixate on things, keep aware, stay Left!, and 2 second rule, and you should be fine.
6. Take a camera and enjoy the experience!

sinfull
20th February 2012, 19:54
i think its been geared down(4 tooth up on rear)runs same speed(new owner claims 110-120 was only old owner claiming 140)but just at higher revs as the low hp couldnt pull bike any faster in the original gearing.Explains the low economy due to higher rpm for same speed top end.

But its all just based on the info of a newer rider and the overstated, overinflated truth bender that sold it to him.
Think we'll have to wait with baited breath for the answer to that one Mossy, i think he means the old owner said it will do 140 now but the OP has only taken it up to 120 so far !

Though gearing it down would explain the fuel economy !

FJRider
20th February 2012, 19:58
Yup

You can see the contradiction in his quote, in one breath he's saying i get less out of my tank and more ecceleration ! Then in the next breath he's saying it has more top end !

So has it been geared up or down FJ haha



1. More acceleration ... and it's geard up ??? (that he would know)
2. Only been 115-120 ... that would be on the assumption there is no speedo error. (Usually read low)
3. 140 from a bike with "normal' gearing would give it 115 kms/hr. One big jump in increased speed ... is it a turbo ???
4. The number of teeth is usually stamped on the cog for confirmation either way ... I know which way I'd bet.
5. Aside from (possible) lies of previous owners ... if it increased fuel consumption as he has said (round town running will cause that)

sinfull
20th February 2012, 20:00
http://gearingcommander.com/ On a completely tech crazy side note, you guys seen this ?

sinfull
20th February 2012, 20:09
1. More acceleration ... and it's geard up ??? (that he would know) How ? The gearing change was done before he bought it, so he dosent really know it has more acceleration than a standard bike .....



2. Only been 115-120 ... that would be on the assumption there is no speedo error. (Usually read low)
3. 140 from a bike with "normal' gearing would give it 115 kms/hr. One big jump in increased speed ... is it a turbo ??? ) the speedo error is something we wont know unless he goes through a trap at 120 lol

but if you read the bit you quoted him on, he states that the old owner told him 140 but he aint reached those speeds yet, it may well do that speed which seeing a standard bike with standard gearing only does 115 ! If he clarifies that he still has more speed/power left at 115 it's geared up !

Shit he's asking advise on riding to auckland lol be lucky if he's owned it a month !

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 20:09
http://gearingcommander.com/ On a completely tech crazy side note, you guys seen this ?

yeah but i think issue is 17hp(factory claimed so at crank),140kg bike plus 12 for fuel oil plus rider at 6foot3 prob 80kg plus even if thin(Im 90kg medium/thinish kinda ok maybe not as good as used to be).Possible that factory gear doesnt have the grunt to pull past 115 and geared down maybe(8% just a guess)still only restricted by the avaliable power so same result but wasting fuel doing so.

edit( i think that bikes only ever seeing 140 true speed down a hill with a 40kg jockey in spandex suit farting curry juice).

FJRider
20th February 2012, 20:13
So we can say the guy that sold it was fulla poo

If the bike is over reving to do 100km idd think changing ratio before said trip to stock would be vital for engine protection alone.

140 kms/hr is possible ... but a fucking steep hill/strong tail wind might be required.

Over reving in top ... on a 250, is not usally an issue ... even one that is geared down.

sinfull
20th February 2012, 20:15
yeah but i think issue is 17hp(factory claimed so at crank),140kg bike plus 12 for fuel oil plus rider at 6foot3 prob 80kg plus even if thin(Im 90kg medium/thinish kinda ok maybe not as good as used to be).Possible that factory gear doesnt have the grunt to pull past 115 and geared down maybe(8% just a guess)still only restricted by the avaliable power so same result but wasting fuel doing so.

edit( i think that bikes only ever seeing 140 true speed down a hill with a 40kg jockey in spandex suit farting curry juice).
Which could be a good argument lol the old owner might have been a 50 kilo asian who rode in shorts and t shirt tucked under the bars and made it to 140 clicks

But i still feel the OP was inferring the guy told him there had been a sprocket change to get more top speed ! Geared up ! Which if this does turn out to be the case, where the hell is the gas going ?

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 20:24
Which could be a good argument lol the old owner might have been a 50 kilo asian who rode in shorts and t shirt tucked under the bars and made it to 140 clicks

But i still feel the OP was inferring the guy told him there had been a sprocket change to get more top speed ! Geared up ! Which if this does turn out to be the case, where the hell is the gas going ?

remember he claimed acceleration/speed which could be determined ability to accelerate faster or ability to accelerate faster and travel faster(seems not to be possible with named bike(unless factory gearing is a real mess))but due to loss in fuel economy im thinking its the first but everything relies on accuracy of claims and state of tune and what acceleration/speed means.

crystalball
20th February 2012, 20:29
Dont forget your wallet.;)

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 20:40
140 kms/hr is possible ... but a fucking steep hill/strong tail wind might be required.

Over reving in top ... on a 250, is not usally an issue ... even one that is geared down.

Yes but new owner confirms 110-120 on clock so 100-110 with some to go but we dont know if thats close to redline or lower than stock revs yet(could be either way).What we do know is that sitting close to redline on a 2000km plus adventure causes tooth decay.

FJRider
20th February 2012, 20:54
Yes but new owner confirms 110-120 on clock so 100-110 with some to go but we dont know if thats close to redline or lower than stock revs yet(could be either way).What we do know is that sitting close to redline on a 2000km plus adventure causes tooth decay.

Aside from the fact ... that the routes he was looking at doing ... on a 250 ... would be difficult to keep that speeds to on larger bikes.

Personally ... I think it would (WILL) be a very long day on the Keeway ... Wellington-Auckland ... whatever the route.

mossy1200
20th February 2012, 21:37
Aside from the fact ... that the routes he was looking at doing ... on a 250 ... would be difficult to keep that speeds to on larger bikes.

Personally ... I think it would (WILL) be a very long day on the Keeway ... Wellington-Auckland ... whatever the route.

Agree idd do Taupo and stay at the backpackers there.Last time i did that they locked my bike in a storage shed for the night.If you going to do big trip 400km a day is ideal.it must be 650-700 to Auckland idd say.

Gremlin
20th February 2012, 21:42
Back to long distance riding tips.

Look after yourself:
1. Stay away from coffee, tea and alcohol. They are diuretics, which means they de-hydrate you.
2. Keep your fluid intake up to keep you hydrated. If you don't feel like a toilet stop at frequent intervals you're not drinking nearly enough.
3. Keep up the energy intake. Riding takes a lot of energy. While the act of riding can feel like an appetite suppressant, you must keep eating to get the energy you need.
4. Get enough sleep. Should be self-explanatory, but your body needs rest and energy.
5. Make sure you're dressed properly. Feeling a little cold for 100-200km isn't too bad. Trying to be a bit cold for 500+km is dangerous. Your body will use up energy trying to keep warm, you won't be able to concentrate properly etc.

Look after the bike:
1. Make sure consumables such as chain, sprockets, tyres, brake pads etc are in good condition. Last thing you want is to break down in the middle of nowhere
2. Before long trips of thousands of km the bike usually has a dealer service to make sure everything is in tip top shape
3. Carry spares of things you might break, such as light bulbs (especially if you're going to ride at night)
4. Carry a puncture repair kit and more importantly, know how to use it. Again, you're in the middle of nowhere and have to be self-sufficient

Equipment:
1. It's quite possible you're going to ride through a lot of different conditions, or even riding in and out of the same system so you have to have all the gear
2. Plan for hot and dry and cold and wet. Winter and summer gloves, wet weather gear and so on
3. Make sure your mobile is charged, as you may need to call for help
4. I carry a lot of stuff now, but some basics: Tie downs, tape, zip ties, tools, personal locator beacon (for emergencies), air compressor (for tyres) and quite a bit of gear.

Riding:
1. Keep a relaxed mental state. As stated, riding fast uses up a lot of energy
2. Know your route and your stops (esp fuel). It helps make the trip more enjoyable (unless it's more fun getting lost and discovering new roads)
3. Last but not least, remember to stop for other bikers, to make sure they're OK.

nzspokes
20th February 2012, 21:47
Back to long distance riding tips.

Look after yourself:
1. Stay away from coffee, tea and alcohol. They are diuretics, which means they de-hydrate you.
2. Keep your fluid intake up to keep you hydrated. If you don't feel like a toilet stop at frequent intervals you're not drinking nearly enough.
3. Keep up the energy intake. Riding takes a lot of energy. While the act of riding can feel like an appetite suppressant, you must keep eating to get the energy you need.
4. Get enough sleep. Should be self-explanatory, but your body needs rest and energy.
5. Make sure you're dressed properly. Feeling a little cold for 100-200km isn't too bad. Trying to be a bit cold for 500+km is dangerous. Your body will use up energy trying to keep warm, you won't be able to concentrate properly etc.

Look after the bike:
1. Make sure consumables such as chain, sprockets, tyres, brake pads etc are in good condition. Last thing you want is to break down in the middle of nowhere
2. Before long trips of thousands of km the bike usually has a dealer service to make sure everything is in tip top shape
3. Carry spares of things you might break, such as light bulbs (especially if you're going to ride at night)
4. Carry a puncture repair kit and more importantly, know how to use it. Again, you're in the middle of nowhere and have to be self-sufficient

Equipment:
1. It's quite possible you're going to ride through a lot of different conditions, or even riding in and out of the same system so you have to have all the gear
2. Plan for hot and dry and cold and wet. Winter and summer gloves, wet weather gear and so on
3. Make sure your mobile is charged, as you may need to call for help
4. I carry a lot of stuff now, but some basics: Tie downs, tape, zip ties, tools, personal locator beacon (for emergencies), air compressor (for tyres) and quite a bit of gear.

Riding:
1. Keep a relaxed mental state. As stated, riding fast uses up a lot of energy
2. Know your route and your stops (esp fuel). It helps make the trip more enjoyable (unless it's more fun getting lost and discovering new roads)
3. Last but not least, remember to stop for other bikers, to make sure they're OK.

Better still talk Gremlin into coming with you so you dont need to carry anything. ;)

Gremlin
20th February 2012, 21:52
Better still talk Gremlin into coming with you so you dont need to carry anything. ;)
Yeah, need to get them zip ties from ya... the learners have been tapping into my supplies on the last couple of rides ;)

nzspokes
20th February 2012, 21:56
Yeah, need to get them zip ties from ya... the learners have been tapping into my supplies on the last couple of rides ;)

No worries. Pop out to Sass sometime.

Rajol
21st February 2012, 15:19
Wow thanks so much for all the advice

I've written it all down on a checklist

Also pmed mossy1220 to take him up on his offer of checking out my bike before I go :)

Thanks all

george formby
21st February 2012, 15:27
Padded cycle shorts under your riding gear helps with numb-bum-itis on the longer rides. Even the most comfy seat gets painful if you've been in the saddle for a few straight hours.

True, they are a bit more comfortabler, I tried them on a high mileage European jaunt. Ming like a thousand arseholes at the end of the day, though.

I found a good way to restore the circulation to the numbous buttockous at the weekend. The landscaping at a gas station was made up of smooth round river pebbles & in a eureka! moment I sat down on them & squirmed like a dog with worms, it felt great. I ended up doing a full body squirm to make my back feel better too. Worked a treat & I felt fine for almost the rest of the trip.

So, look out for nice round pebbles when you start to ache.

mossy1200
21st February 2012, 17:31
Rajol is coming around and we shall have a look.Prob going to owe Sinfull some beers.

original ration is 45-16 at 2.81 turns at front to one rear wheel revo.

Its possible it been over geared also making it slave the small motor at 100 in top.

bike has no rev counter.


Should know soon anyways.Im picking this is a virago copy by the photos and specs on net.looks like nice bike for entry level in the stats.

gatch
21st February 2012, 18:34
Throw caution to the wind. Don't even take spare undies or a phone.

Or money for gas. Or even your bike !

A bus will get you there with change out of $50.

Zedder
21st February 2012, 18:38
Most impoertantly: Wave or nod to all bikers.

mossy1200
21st February 2012, 19:01
Ok I now owe sinfull beers.GRRRR

had a good look at bike and its in nice condition.Oil level good and not to dark no signs of metal.
Runs nice and idles good.

Issue gearing changed from 16-45 to 16-38 just way to much change for 17hp to handle.

now Rajol get 180km before reserve and refill is 6litres so with reserve 250ish instead of factory claimed 300.
Idd be picking the 50km diff is from gearing being to high.

Also the bike has stretched chain which goes from 20mm play to 50mm at its loose point so Rajol is going to get new chain before going and due to the sprokets being in good condition live with the gearing till next chain and sproket change.he only has 2 days till going but will source a chain tomorrow and if the shop wont fit cheap we will replace it thursday evening.

Rajol wants to travel Welly to Auckland on Friday taking his time with a half hour break every hour and half with a good lunch break.estimate 11-12hrs with breaks.Is going to travel main route on a Friday so should be ok with traffic.

return trip may take 2 days and travel down through National park then down desert road turning into Palmy then over the ridge if Gorge is closed then down East Coast and over Rimutaka hill to get home.

If i dont see you thurday rajol have good trip.

Ollie.T
21st February 2012, 19:59
I have done more or less the same trip on a GN250, it was a bit slow on hills but definitely doable (south island, just south of Kaikoura was the most painful - though still fun and the twisty bits around the coast definitely make up for it!)

Try not to wear a backpack - straps tend to dig in and the extra weight makes things a bit weird. I tied a bag to the pillion seat (and it ended up a bit like a lower back rest)

Anyway, its all good fun, though you get some strange looks when you tell people where you have ridden from on such a small bike!

mossy1200
21st February 2012, 20:26
I have done more or less the same trip on a GN250, it was a bit slow on hills but definitely doable (south island, just south of Kaikoura was the most painful - though still fun and the twisty bits around the coast definitely make up for it!)

Try not to wear a backpack - straps tend to dig in and the extra weight makes things a bit weird. I tied a bag to the pillion seat (and it ended up a bit like a lower back rest)

Anyway, its all good fun, though you get some strange looks when you tell people where you have ridden from on such a small bike!

Rajols got a fairly sturdy pack rack on it.Tanks very small though i dont think a tankbag would even fit on it

MD
21st February 2012, 22:24
Reset the trip meter to zero each time you fill the tank (assume it has one). That way you know at a glance how far you can go before having to push it. Far more acccurate than a fuel gauge with a few bars displayed on the dash of some bikes.

And as said, don't fart around recording a boring vid. (it will be to the rest of the planet sorry). Concentrate on riding

Rajol
22nd February 2012, 08:33
Couldn't thank mossy1200 enough :)

Learned a lot yesterday, shop on Adelaide was closed when I went past this morning so will go this afternoon

kiwigjt
22nd February 2012, 20:37
My first ride on my bike (hyosung GT250R) was Akl to Manawatu, after reading this thread it is entirely possible I should never have jumped straight in. Not to mention it was in July and it rained for 7 of the 8 hours of the trip.
In saying that it was the best biking adventure I have had and I learnt a lot about how the bike runs, what I was capable of as a rider and how to ride within my limits.
Just make sure you take those breaks and don't push yourself. Be comfortable, don't load the bike up at the expense of your comfort.
I am sure we will all be keen to see how you get on.

Madness
22nd February 2012, 20:42
The cost of replacing the sprockets would be largely repaid in fuel savings from returning to oem gearing. I hope it stops raining for you man, ride safe.

Rajol
4th March 2012, 23:21
Just an update

All my trips i did in 1 day

Rode from Wellington to Auckland on 26/02 Along SH1
Rode from Auckland to Wellington 29/02 Along west code, through national park, ohakune, beautiful ride
Rode from Wellington to Dunedin 01/03 main road along east cost through christchurch to Dunedin

My trip went awesome, and I've definitely become WAY more confident in riding and from handling certain emergency situations differently

From Timaru to Dunedin it was dark, raining, most cars were useless at turning off their headlights and it took me 3 hours to do that last leg :(

I'm pretty sure I endured every hardship riding a motorbike has to offer over that week.

Good experience though
Beautiful ride,
Met some more experienced riders along the way, including a man who is currently touring nz on a bmw 1200cc bike who has done russia china, south america and australia, and an older couple on a cruise together while on the inter islander, they helped tie down my bike because the crew on the interislander refused to help -.- wankers...

Confident I could travel 800km /day comfortably if I got an early start

pritch
5th March 2012, 06:34
The ferry crews don't help but that's OK, most of us would prefer they stay away from the bikes anyway.

oneofsix
5th March 2012, 06:43
The ferry crews don't help but that's OK, most of us would prefer they stay away from the bikes anyway.

+1 can you imagine having your bike tied down like it was a railway wagon or something :argh:

Glad you enjoyed your trip and gained some experience Rajol. Note of warning, whilst you have experienced a lot of the hardships motorcycling has to throw at you don't think you've had it all. One of the joys of motorcyling is that there is always more shit to come. :banana: Umm 1/3 to Dunedin so you missed the 130k winds?

FJRider
5th March 2012, 11:20
The ferry crews don't help but that's OK, most of us would prefer they stay away from the bikes anyway.

I dont think they're allowed to tie them down.

Gremlin
5th March 2012, 13:26
I dont think they're allowed to tie them down.
Wouldn't be surprised, as it would open a can of worms for liability. One of the guys did speak to me while I was tying down, advising me to throw one round the back wheel, but I was still in the middle of checking I had her upright...

FJRider
5th March 2012, 14:18
Wouldn't be surprised, as it would open a can of worms for liability. One of the guys did speak to me while I was tying down, advising me to throw one round the back wheel, but I was still in the middle of checking I had her upright...

I believe that IS the reason. Cars usually have a tiedown point at each end. Bike are a different story.