Gearbox troubles?

[Ants]

I was wondering if anyone know what the issue is here.

The gears have always been a little bit "notchy" (at least, compared to my old GN250). And usually when cold the clutch drags a bit, as it tends to "clunk" then putting into 1st.
However, a couple of times not it's been plain weird. I hop on, starts fine, then press the gear level to go and it stalls. Try a couple of times - same thing. It seems the bike is stuck in a high gear - possibly 3rd, but more like 4/5/6. I can flick the lever up into neutral again - then down again, but it's back to high gear. And there's no way to lift the lever above the neutral point (so it's like it's in 6th - no way up from there).
A few mins of stalling, and rocking it back and forth usually seems to fix this issue, but not for any logical reason I can think of. Once fixed, it's ususally fine all the way home and for the next few days.

Anyone know what's up with that, or had similar? It's very annoying!!

PS .... '07 Kwaka ER-5, 61000kms on the clock.

[SMOKEU]

Have you got good, clean motorbike oil in it topped up to the right level?

[sil3nt]

Kawasakis won't let you shift into second unless the bike is moving. They call it a positive neutral finder. It means you don't have to sit on the bike for 30 seconds looking for neutral when you stop.

If it stalls when you put it in gear then you probably have a faulty sidestand switch. The bikes are designed to cut out with the sidestand down when in gear so you don't ride off with the sidestand down. Most people remove this as they aren't exactly reliable.

Clunking into first is normal for a wet clutch if there is no oil between the plates to let them slip. Oil works its way out after the bike sits for awhile as it needs the engine running to move it around.

[nodrog]

try adjusting your clutch cable, sounds like its not engaging the clutch enough. and new kawasakis dont go into 2nd from neutral until they are moving due to the positive neutral finder.

[Paul in NZ]

It could be LOTS of things... But start with a decent oil change and a full clutch adjustment.

[ducatilover]

It could be LOTS of things... But start with a decent oil change and a full clutch adjustment.
Agreed. Start simple.

Pull the side stand switch off and short the two wires together, that'll eliminate that. :msn-wink:

[Warr]

It could be LOTS of things... But start with a decent oil change and a full clutch adjustment.
What he said ..
... make sure you are using an oil that is designed for motorcycles ... not something cheap from The Warehouse :)
Full clutch adjustments means, using the cable adjuster by the clutch lever you have a small amount of 'free play' in the lever say around 5mm at the outer lever end.
It is possible that an inferior oil may have gummed up the plates and the benefits of new correct oil are not realised immediately.
Any bike shop can supply you with the correct grade oil. Motul works for me.

As for your starting. ... Just leave the bike in 1st gear. Side stand up, Pull the clutch and hit the starter button.
With the engine not running, in 1st gear, pull the clutch, you should be able to push the bike backwards and forwards

[GrayWolf]

If the preceeding suggestions fail to resolve the issue? Then wih 61k, although not exceptionally high, depending on how the gearbox has been used 'historically' then you could be looking at things like a worn selector fork, or drum... Some gearboxes only have certain 'faults' that show with a lot of abuse.. My old FJ12 for example, if they are thrashed on a regular basis can start jumping out of 2nd, well 'cossetted' examples can have 160k+ and the boxes are fine.

[Paul in NZ]

A full clutch adjustment might (and I have no experience of the particular bike) need to have the throw out at the clutch adjusted and then the cable. As the plates wear it changes the mechanical advantage at the actuation point. It could of had a fall and had the wrong lever fitted (they are all different and affect the amount of pull) ie a Norton lever is slightly different than a BSA one.

If its done 60K or so and IF thats mainly urban riding it could need a set of plates OR if its had an uncaring previous owner it may have warped plates or a notched drum. OR the plates could just have a build up of oil additives or be burnt from some knob practising wheelies or burn outs. I dunno - its a big question...

One things for sure - if its had the wrong oil in there the plates can get sticky.

[Ants]

If it stalls when you put it in gear then you probably have a faulty sidestand switch. The bikes are designed to cut out with the sidestand down when in gear so you don't ride off with the sidestand down. Most people remove this as they aren't exactly reliable.


Sorry, maybe I should've been clearer ... the stall is because of trying to take off it too high a gear. It's not side-stand related since I have driven off in 1st quite a few times with the sidestand still down :rolleyes: A goog amount of clutch control can start off in 2nd and maybe 3rd .. but this is a very high gear and not amount of clutch or revs will get it under way on the flat...

[sil3nt]

Sorry, maybe I should've been clearer ... the stall is because of trying to take off it too high a gear. It's not side-stand related since I have driven off in 1st quite a few times with the sidestand still down :rolleyes: A goog amount of clutch control can start off in 2nd and maybe 3rd .. but this is a very high gear and not amount of clutch or revs will get it under way on the flat...Sorry but the chances are very slim that you are in any other gear than 1st if you can find neutral by changing up and find a gear by changing down.

I would be checking the clutch cable. Then I would be taking it too a mechanic!

[Ants]

Thanks all for comments so far.

Bike as far as I know (or was told where I bought it) was used regularly for 100km commute and serviced 6-monthly. So shouldn't really be related to abuse - but you never can tell really without a full inspection.

I have played with the clutch cable some - will try again, but not really sure it'll help much. Is there some sort of dipstick or something where I can tell the level of oil in the gearbox?

Otherwise, as many have suggested, I'll be relaying the issue to my local dealer service dept and keeping fingers and wallet crossed :)

[ducatilover]

Gearbox runs in the same oil as the engine, so check the engine level.

[SMOKEU]

I have played with the clutch cable some - will try again, but not really sure it'll help much. Is there some sort of dipstick or something where I can tell the level of oil in the gearbox?


It will either have a dipstick or a sight glass near the side of the crank case. Keep in mind that most 4 stroke bikes share the engine and gearbox oil. They are not separate like most cars.

[G4L4XY]

Sounds like you need to take the whole engine apart to get to the oil sump...oh wait this was clutch related, doh

[quickbuck]

Kawasakis won't let you shift into second unless the bike is moving. They call it a positive neutral finder. It means you don't have to sit on the bike for 30 seconds looking for neutral when you stop.

.

Wow, you learn something every day.
Had the Ninja for 18 months, and never knew that......

I just thought it was annoying when it wouldn't go into second when I need to crash start it..... (Race bike, Broken starter, and long story)...

SO, Now I know I can put the GPX Lap timer right over the neutral light, and I can find neutral with my foot without a worry.

[Coolz]

Put your bike on the mainstand or jack your back wheel up if you aint got one. You should be able to release the clutch without stalling even in top gear. If you cant you have an inhibitor malfunction or mechanical problem.

[bsasuper]

If you think its stuck in top gear, I recommend you dont touch it and take it to a motorcycle shop, who know what they are doing.The worst thing you can do is fiddle with something you clearly know nothing about, and no offence but it might save you from making it worse.