Heat paint

[The Lone Rider]

I'm first to admit to not know much about paint, am hoping to do a paint job using rattle cans.

Just want to know if "heat" paint can be used effectively on the likes of a bike gas tank, fenders etc...

I know you need to cook them to work, but tank is going to be bogged.

I'll try to explain what I want to do:

I want to paint engine covers Plastikote heat paint 16 blue, and use that same paint on the wheels, headlight trim, and on the petrol tank (and maybe on a few things like cable guides)

engine covers no problem, I've done them before.

Not so sure about things like the wheels, and headlight trim as they can't be baked. As for the tank, it will be bogged, then sprayed with Plastikote Super Enamel Pacific Blue 679. Then I want to mask the tank and spray a scallop onto the sides using the heat paint 16 blue, then clear coat over the lot using plastikote 795 industrial clear acrylic

Doesn't have to all be plastikote, I just went with that because I could pick all the paints and colors online and photoshop a photo of the bike to match their online color samples.

[mossy1200]

strip wheel down less bearings and get them powdercoated about $50 each.Rattle them and they wont last much past the first clean.
Prep the tank as best you can and get that painted also as petrol will kill your rattle job also.

[The Lone Rider]

Everything I've read is that powedercoat on wheels is shite and chips and comes apart. We have lots of powdercoated kit at work, and one ding and it's all fucked.

I don't intend on getting petrol onto the tank, but I would have thought bog, under coat, color coat, and clear coat would have protected it as much as any other tank.

And you don't address the use of heat paint.

[Spuds1234]

Getting shit painted properly while not as cheap as rattlecaning it yourself pays dividends in the long run. To get all the metal parts of my Katana sandblasted and painted (not including the tank, wheels, and a couple of engine parts), cost me all up about $200. It looks way better than I could have ever gotten it myself and its not going to fall off the first time I wash the bike.

[The Lone Rider]

Maybe I should clarify...

No one else is going to paint it but me.

And I intend to use a spray can, or airline with spray gun. I have seen an abundance of bikes painted with spray can and they have lasted a long time.

Prime example, spray can of "hammerite" for the base color.

259696

And you haven't answered the questions, you've just told me to get someone else to do it.

[Fast Eddie]

Maybe I should clarify...

No one else is going to paint it but me.

And I intend to use a spray can, or airline with spray gun. I have seen an abundance of bikes painted with spray can and they have lasted a long time.

Prime example, spray can of "hammerite" for the base color.

259696

I'v used rattle cans on petrol tanks with rattlecan clear coat and petrol spillage didnt effect it.

not sure about heat paint, like u say it needs to be baked. I have used it on exhaust and engines and it bakes itself eh.. on the tank or not heated parts it may never cure properly and always be weak/may chip or dent easy im not sure. why not just spray a panel and see how it dries/cures

[hayd3n]

im not sure about heat paints but i tend to use acrylic based spray cans
much more chemical resistant

[The Lone Rider]

im not sure about heat paints but i tend to use acrylic based spray cans
much more chemical resistant

Thanks bud.

Whats the difference between "acrylic" and "enamel"? My knowledge is "matte, satin, or gloss" as well as "clean up with water, or clean up with turps".

I know the heat paints are very durable if baked, but no idea about if not. Wouldn't be so bad if I could find a non heat paint in a matched color.

[The Lone Rider]

why not just spray a panel and see how it dries/cures

I suppose if no prior knowledge is forthright, I may just do that.

Wouldn't be an issue if I could find a matching color to the heat paint, just an unfortunate problem.

Looks pretty good though

259697

[The Lone Rider]

So far, doesnt look like heat paint has the slightest bit of durability without being baked.

Damn.

Will do a couple more sample tests. I've only tested it sprayed straight to metal; will try also on metal sprayed with primer, and metal with primer and a top coat of clear.

[ducatilover]

I don't think the heat paint will cure without being baked.
You could just get a few cans colour matched?

[nodrog]

Just stick your smaller parts in the oven to cure, I cant remember the times and heat but it was written on the cans I used. And you can use a heat gun and time to cure you bigger stuff.

Edit - this is the curing for vht engine paint "•Bake at 200°F (93°C) for 20 minutes."

[The Lone Rider]

Just stick your smaller parts in the oven to cure, I cant remember the times and heat but it was written on the cans I used. And you can use a heat gun and time to cure you bigger stuff.

Edit - this is the curing for vht engine paint "•Bake at 200°F (93°C) for 20 minutes."

Yeah I've done heat paint before, so I know about curing.

Currently running a test, 3 coats of dulux etch primer grey, 3 coats of blue plastikote heat paint. then going to put clear over it, if the heat paint seems to be holding well.

So far, it has gone onto the primer really well.

[The Pastor]

heat paint will not work unless baked.

been there done that.

also dont be tempted to put plastic into an oven, even on low temp........

[nodrog]

...also dont be tempted to put plastic into an oven, even on low temp........

why not?

____

[Paul in NZ]

In my limited experience the heat paints seem to be slightly better quality. There are 2 sorts. Hi temp for headers etc and engine enamel which is just OK for mufflers. Yeah - they work better once they have been heat cycled.

Using std plasticote 'enamel' rattle cans and hoping for a decent finish is a bit hit n miss. Some cans just come with shitty nozzles….

What we used to do was shake the fuck out of them and sit them in warm water for a few minutes (not too hot or too long) to thin the paint a little and increase pressure in the can.

The acrylic lacquer paint you can buy is generally better but you need the whole ‘system’ and it’s fussier about atmospherics. Gives a better gloss if you get it right though plus you can get a bigger range of colours and some places used to mix it up to order.

I just use a cheapo compressor and spray gun to shoot lacquer. It’s a lot cheaper.

[The Pastor]

why not?

____

plastic melts...

[nodrog]

plastic melts...

:gob: thanks for that, I have some ABS in the oven at 80 degrees, been in there for a couple of hours, I better go check to see if its melted.

[The Lone Rider]

Looking a bit like the heat paint is going to be too fragile on anything that can't be baked.

Just put a 2nd coat of clear on a piece, and looks like the clear is turning the heat paint into something of a paste. Will know in the morning when I give it the tiniest bit of sanding.

I suspect back to the drawing board, to find the colors and appropriate paint.



My side mount license plate has turned up fairly good, as far as a home job is concerned. 3 coats of etch primer, 3 coats of matte stencil black, and 3 coats of clear.

[The Lone Rider]

After letting the two items dry overnight, quite clearly the heat paint with clear coat ends up much like a soft plastic paste over the metal. By comparison, the side mount plate done the same but colored with black stencil paint, can be scuffed but is by far a better finish.

So rethinking the entire paint job. Nearly worked it all out.

Ta for suggestions previously posted.

[Fast Eddie]

im sure this is nothing new, but I get paint matched down here in dunners by a place called.. Color.. something haha, not important anyway - they will take a panel that is in the color u want or take some of the paint from the heat can ur using and they will match it pretty damn good, and they will give the paint matched paint to u in a spray can as well or in a pot. whatever u want. and best bit is its not too expensive, think it was 20- 25 bucks for a color matched spray can

[The Lone Rider]

Ah, I've moved on. I only wanted to know about the heat paint as I was going to paint engine covers.

Have now attacked the engine with sandpaper, emery and scotch brite.

Starting to look like an old school iron cast engine I reckon.

Using everyday normal blue spray paint for the tins.

[mossy1200]

Everything I've read is that powedercoat on wheels is shite and chips and comes apart. We have lots of powdercoated kit at work, and one ding and it's all fucked.

I don't intend on getting petrol onto the tank, but I would have thought bog, under coat, color coat, and clear coat would have protected it as much as any other tank.

And you don't address the use of heat paint.

I dont really understand why powdercoated wheels at 220degr which is the same process as factory oem ally wheels isnt going to work but rattle cans is.Heat paint and enam wont cure without being baked.If it doesnt cure and you add to it it will melt and the 2 will try mix into each other.

automan6 is a painter and has done plenty of bikes he will have all the answers if your doing your own work.He did my race bike for me.
Hes not on alot but a pm will reach his email.

[DEATH_INC.]

I dont really understand why powdercoated wheels at 220degr which is the same process as factory oem
Because it isn't how they're done at the factory, it is paint, not powdercoat, that's why they don't have all the paint fall off in big chunks after they get chipped like powder does. And paint is only baked at 70 deg.

As for the idea of using heat paint, the biggest issue is that it isn't compatible with primers/clears as it's designed to work without them.