Honda CBX550f fairing

[Spazman727]

Hey,
Does anyone know how hard it is to take off the fairing of a CBX550?
I'm getting one next week (hopefully, pending mechanics check) and
a) the fairing kicks wind right into my visor opening, its as if it was designed so I couldn't use it with my visor open, and
b) I think they look way better without the silly little fairing.

I've tried searching online and all I can find is that there was one made with a fairing (I'm assuming that's the f suffix?) and one without, nothing about how one would go about taking it off. I don't get the bike till next week so I haven't really had a chance to look at how I would do it on this particular one.
Any advice would be great.

Cheers

[FJRider]

Post a pic. Give us a look at it.

[Spazman727]

I don't have a picture of the fairing attachment, and can't find one online.

This is a photo of it with the fairing
http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery/Honda%20CBX550F2.jpg

and this is one of one without
http://www.werkstathandbuch.com/201-258-large/honda-cbx-550-four-1982-1986-werkstatthandbuch.jpg

Thanks

[F5 Dave]

Silly little fairing?? They are pretty soddin big really, if its a std one. Think the indicator mounts will give you the most grief, the unfaired are on the fork legs & maybe the faired are on the fairing, but its been too long (its been a long time since the 80s), but yes the unfaired ones look much better.

Not sure what lives behind headlight of faired one. May need the black plastic shell & rim/mount. Oh yeah mirrors were on stalks on bars.

The camchain tensioners have a live span of about 20,000k, 40 if yer lucky, or maybe the later ones got better, think I replaced mine twice, but it had almost 90 when I sold it.

edit I see you have posted pics. Yeah I pretty much nailed it. The bottom of the tripple clamp had some plastic bit & indicators were mounted & covered by plastic.

[Spazman727]

Silly little fairing??

edit I see you have posted pics. Yeah I pretty much nailed it. The bottom of the tripple clamp had some plastic bit & indicators were mounted & covered by plastic.

Ok, sweet, I think I can handle re doing the indicators and mirrors.

Thanks heaps, Man I'm excited about getting my new bike.

[FJRider]

I would suggest you take the (clear) fairing blade off and shorten it back to the bend turns upwards. Not a difficult job.

There are places that do aftermarket screens to that may suit.

[ellipsis]

....a bit of work to do once you have cleared the fairing off the bike...my girl has one...the fairing edge digs into my knee, which is fucking annoying, but probably fortunate for my wife and the bike or I would want to ride it all the time...best fun little bike I've ridden in years...if you disregard the headshake if you dont keep the tyre pressures up to it...a primary chain that competes with the Goldwing in rattley decibels...mirrors that are about as much use as a chocolate teapot...as are the 'fairings'...a big cult item in the land of the rising sun at the moment...the cbx400 especially...

[F5 Dave]

Primary chain rattle is complemented with clutch cush rattle I think. Gets worse if carbs aren't balanced. As does cam chain.

Headshake is nothing to be worried about, sort of. There is a latter mod for under the steering head bearings with a rubber disk, never seen anything like it before. But the most important thing is matched tyres of the correct size. They like certain tyre types, my recommendations are waay too old, but as soon as that rear tyre gets a decent flat section the wobble starts (decelerate from 50 & take hands off bars & by 40 the bars will wobble alarmingly). But never a real life problem.

Learn how to take the front wheel off. With practise it is pretty quick & not anywhere as near bad as some people make out, but there is a knack.

[ellipsis]

...and if the ignitor/cdi becomes a problem, they can be hard to come by...thats why I jumped on the two that came my way...they look pretty scarily complex when you look at them but I have had to do a few things on her bike...and if I can do it, anyone could..thanks to help from here...

[F5 Dave]

you should find Electrix in uk or someone do aftermarket ignitors


oh yeah these guys used to make cam chain tensioners for CBXs. Worth an enquiry if you need a tensioner. website is pretty basic.

http://www.galeacamchainservices.co.uk/

[Spazman727]

Wow, sounds like these have lots of problems. Have I made a big mistake?

[ellipsis]

Wow, sounds like these have lots of problems. Have I made a big mistake?

.....no.....

[FJRider]

.....no.....

I agree ... but I might suggest you not spend too much time (and money) on it, that doesn't involve riding it. Just keep it legal and safe. Use the extra weight and power to learn, have fun, and gain experience.

Then move on.

Also ... remember ... the longer your visor is open, the more chance a Bee, Wasp, or a bloody great moth enters the gap. (or a stone from a passing car.... even at low speeds they hurt)

Little niggles you can live with. Fun can still be had.

[F5 Dave]

No. They are great little bikes. I mean all 30yr old bikes will have issues. Some of the era had issues when new, Honda really it was their cam chain tensioners. Suzuki it was their electrics. But keep on top of it & they are fine for years.

[quickbuck]

Headshake is nothing to be worried about, sort of. There is a latter mod for under the steering head bearings with a rubber disk, never seen anything like it before. But the most important thing is matched tyres of the correct size. They like certain tyre types, my recommendations are waay too old, but as soon as that rear tyre gets a decent flat section the wobble starts (decelerate from 50 & take hands off bars & by 40 the bars will wobble alarmingly).


Interesting... I had a Honda of roughly the same era once... (won't mention it, as the thread will loose a middle cylinder or somehting), it did the same thing when one of the tyres got down in tread...
I asked my brother about it, and he said, "don't take yor hands off the bars then".
Wasn't really the solution I was after, but as soon as I put new rubber on it, the wobbles went away.

As for the CBX550, not really a lemon at all.
We just have 30 years of insight into them now....

And yes, some bikes had issues when new... like the one I had.
Loads of fun though...

[mossy1200]

I had a Boldor 750 which is basically cbx750 with full fairings.It even had heater vents.That handled very well.
Have had a couple of VF750Fs also now they really hated tires that wernt in good nick.Think the v4 torque and heavy engine made them that way if the tires wernt good they seemed to flex and wobble.

[quickbuck]

Think the v4 torque and heavy engine made them that way if the tires wernt good they seemed to flex and wobble.

I think it was more the chassis geometry, and the weight distrubution in those days.... The *cough* V3 2T didn't have a lot of torque...

[Spazman727]

Cool, thanks for your replies. It sounds like it will be a good chance for me to learn how to work on a bike, which I've been wanting to do, but my damn cb 250 seems to just keep going, for which I am thankful.
The cbx is a pretty cool bike, I'm probably picking it up tomorrow :yes:

[FROSTY]

Hi Spazman.To convert the faired CBX550 to the unfaired version isn't super difficult but isn't just a simple matter of undoing some bolts.
The parts you will need are.
2x standard handlebar mount mirrors
1xcbx550 headlight shell or a complete aftermarket HD headlight.
preferably CBX550 headlight bracketry and asociated rubber plugs.
If not after market brackets will do.

You first remove the headlight rim/glass by undoing the mounting screws and unplug the wiring.
Once thats out youll need to unplug the two indicators and unbolt them from the fairing.
Check that all wiring is unclipped from the fairing and pulled through the holes.
You now need to unbolt the two side brackets for the fairing followed by the two big mounting bolts -the fairing will now be off.
If using the factory brackets then you will see the mounting points under the top triple clamp and in the bottom clamp
You will need to remove the top clamp or at the least raise it enough to fit the brackets.
If aftermarket then you can undo them and bolt them to the forks.
The indicators will hang off the factory brackets -if aftermarket youll need to either drill/mount to the brackerts or hang accessory brackets down below.
Tuck the wiring into the headlight making sure it doesn't unplug when you turn the steering.

Alternatively--Buy a lower screen from visual plastics in Hamilton.

[Spazman727]

Awesome, thanks Frosty.
Doesn't sound too far out of my skill level.

[F5 Dave]

Walking back from lunch today I stopped in to find a bike mag for the weekend & saw Practical Sportsbikes have a modern day comparo between the CBX550, GSX550 & GPz550. So I grabbed it, although really for the YPVS specials feature, but thought you may be interested.

[actungbaby]

How many kms i had a cbx 400 fc and the cbx 550 was the big brother too mine

liked the cross over pipes apprently this was same as orginal cb 400f which they say was awsome bike that was 70,s model

i brought my little cbx brand new in 83 , only had to replace the cam chain in 4 years owned it did 44,000 km

also mine got misture in prolink swing arm bearings and had sqeak when sat on the bike so put grease nipples to fix it

got freind that got cbx 550 he might have parts think his out action

also the cbx 550 faired model called the f2 thats how you know thats got full fairing its frame mounted i think seen one on trademe for sale awhile back and was one in wanganui i had bid on that being whole machine

i think white f2 models where quite rear . also the cbx 400 was production 400cc class winner , talked to guy that won it too he bet yam two strokes on it

apprenlty yam where not to pleased honda one the series hehe
all the best with you new bike get the oil changed new oil filter clean the air filter get carbs balnced and be good runner

my cbx was always smooth as after tune up , i far prefered cbx 400 to my first road bike cb 400 n twin

had much lower centre gravity and was good handling bike , the brakes bit fiddly to take covers of as inborad ventelated disc

there actauly cast iron so honda said covered them to stop u seeing rust . they aslo had mechanical anti dive

which worked well , put like 12 psi in the front forks and metzer tires where good on mine i also ran coninetal rear at one stage




Hey,
Does anyone know how hard it is to take off the fairing of a CBX550?
I'm getting one next week (hopefully, pending mechanics check) and
a) the fairing kicks wind right into my visor opening, its as if it was designed so I couldn't use it with my visor open, and
b) I think they look way better without the silly little fairing.

I've tried searching online and all I can find is that there was one made with a fairing (I'm assuming that's the f suffix?) and one without, nothing about how one would go about taking it off. I don't get the bike till next week so I haven't really had a chance to look at how I would do it on this particular one.
Any advice would be great.

Cheers

[Spazman727]

I got the bike.
Think I will leave the fairing for the moment as there are more pressing issues with it that I have to worry about. It's a fun bike to ride and way more comfy than my little CB250.

I got a pre purchase inspection and they said that the steering head bearing needed replacing soon, maybe at the next tyre change.
On my first night time ride I discovered the instrument panel lights don't work but that was an easy fix. Then I found out that they oil light wire coming from the engine was detached, also an easy fix. The fuel tap doesn't work, i.e it will let fuel through fine but the off and reserve settings don't work. Not a huge deal since it has a fuel gauge, but still a bit of a nuisance which I hope to fix when I have some money.
Now for the major stuff, the carbs leak, I assume the rubber diaphragm things are worn out. And the rear suspension is no good, it doesn't rebound when compressed. The manual I have says that it might be insufficient air pressure in the shock (it's air assisted) but also says that if it has low ground clearance when cornering that it probably means the spring is buggered, and I often scrape the centre stand going round corners.

So, long story short, does anyone know where I can get a cheap rear suspension set and carb diaphragm? I can hopefully install it myself.

Cheers.

[nzspokes]

I got the bike.
Think I will leave the fairing for the moment as there are more pressing issues with it that I have to worry about. It's a fun bike to ride and way more comfy than my little CB250.

I got a pre purchase inspection and they said that the steering head bearing needed replacing soon, maybe at the next tyre change.
On my first night time ride I discovered the instrument panel lights don't work but that was an easy fix. Then I found out that they oil light wire coming from the engine was detached, also an easy fix. The fuel tap doesn't work, i.e it will let fuel through fine but the off and reserve settings don't work. Not a huge deal since it has a fuel gauge, but still a bit of a nuisance which I hope to fix when I have some money.
Now for the major stuff, the carbs leak, I assume the rubber diaphragm things are worn out. And the rear suspension is no good, it doesn't rebound when compressed. The manual I have says that it might be insufficient air pressure in the shock (it's air assisted) but also says that if it has low ground clearance when cornering that it probably means the spring is buggered, and I often scrape the centre stand going round corners.

So, long story short, does anyone know where I can get a cheap rear suspension set and carb diaphragm? I can hopefully install it myself.

Cheers.

Carbs will be a a piece of piss to fix. SME will have the bits. Its probably the float valves or bowl gaskets. And my guess is the shock just needs pumping up. Im happy to come have a look if you need. Ive got a shock pump.

[ellipsis]

....try econohonda for the carb stuff...i just went through the rigmarole of changing the rear suspension on my girls bike...you can try putting air in, the valve is just their on the damper/spring body...will take up to 50+ ibs to be within its specs...dont be surprised if its poked though...like I was told on here...30+years old and getting older...I tracked a set down but had to buy a lot of other cbx spares to get one...see what Malcolm at econohonda has to say...he's cool to deal with

[Spazman727]

Great, thanks for your help. It looks like I'm going to need a lot of this sort of help to keep the bike running sweet.

[Spazman727]

Carbs will be a a piece of piss to fix. SME will have the bits. Its probably the float valves or bowl gaskets. And my guess is the shock just needs pumping up. Im happy to come have a look if you need. Ive got a shock pump.

Yeah, in the manual it looks like the carb will be easy enough.
Would pumping the shock up with a normal compressor work or would that totally bugger it?

[nzspokes]

Yeah, in the manual it looks like the carb will be easy enough.
Would pumping the shock up with a normal compressor work or would that totally bugger it?

Yes that will kill it.

[Spazman727]

Yes that will kill it.

ah, ok, in that case it would be groovy if I could use your pump. I can come to you if that suits?

[nzspokes]

ah, ok, in that case it would be groovy if I could use your pump. I can come to you if that suits?

Yup PM me. Im going out to the SME guy on Sat am if you want to see him about your carbs? He will tell you what you need. Im getting full carb kits. Little project for the weekend.

[F5 Dave]

Take the shock out & see that the linkages are free & not seizing. This is a dangerous situation you are describing, it needs attn.

[Spazman727]

Take the shock out & see that the linkages are free & not seizing. This is a dangerous situation you are describing, it needs attn.

Yeah, I know it's dangerous. I'll be using my other bike for a bit I think.

[Spazman727]

Yet another thing, any Ideas why it would start then stall, then not start again for ages? (Like leave it for half an hour kind of ages?)
So glad I got a pre purchase inspection done.

[F5 Dave]

yeah could be a few things, but start & run for 20 min & then stall, or straight away?

I'd be guessing the fuel starvation from an aftermarket filter making a kink, or the pulser coil gets a fault when hot (not unknown, mine did this, but mid ride).

[Spazman727]

yeah could be a few things, but start & run for 20 min & then stall, or straight away?

I'd be guessing the fuel starvation from an aftermarket filter making a kink, or the pulser coil gets a fault when hot (not unknown, mine did this, but mid ride).

Stalls almost straight away. Choke seems to have no effect. If I rev it and can keep it going it's fine. It doesn't usually take long to start the first time, and if I turn it off after its been running a while it'l start again fine. Like ride to uni, off for a few hours then will start fine again, it's usually just when I start it for the first time that day.

I hope this makes sense.

[F5 Dave]

How dirty airfilter?, how old plugs?

its been over 20 years but I remember needing the choke to get it going.


pull out the plugs & see how black they are, & if any more so than others.

Ohh & for giggles borrow a multimeter, put it to ohms & read the resistance between two plugcaps of same coil, ie: 1&4 & 2&3. Should be less than 20k.

[FJRider]

Yet another thing, any Ideas why it would start then stall, then not start again for ages? (Like leave it for half an hour kind of ages?)
So glad I got a pre purchase inspection done.

Sounds like flooding ... a sticking float or just too much throttle to start.

Some bikes (often the older ones) do have a "starting procedure" that if you try to vary it (by even a small amount) ... it wont start.

[F5 Dave]

Indeed, that's why I want him to pull the plugs. a wet or suspiciously dark plug may indicate a problem cylinder.

[Spazman727]

Ok, thanks for the advice, I will try those things in the morning.
I haven't been able to get the plugs out because my spark plug sized socket is too fat but I'll try find a thinner one.

[nzspokes]

Ya carbs need a rebuild. Sounds like the float valves are leaking fuel in overnight. Does your oil smell of petrol?

I rebuilt mine tonight. Easy job really. Just a couple of hours. And $110 for 4 carb kits.

[Spazman727]

Ya carbs need a rebuild. Sounds like the float valves are leaking fuel in overnight. Does your oil smell of petrol?

I rebuilt mine tonight. Easy job really. Just a couple of hours. And $110 for 4 carb kits.

I can't smell petrol in the oil. Is that from SME?

[nzspokes]

I can't smell petrol in the oil. Is that from SME?

Yup. I would just do them anyway so you know they are right.

[F5 Dave]

Well lets not jump to conclusions, it could also be crud keeping the floats open, or it could be something else all together.

[Spazman727]

I'm planning to take it into Cycletreads when I get paid. Hopefully they can tell me what else is wrong too. Still need to sort the suspension though :angry:

[ellipsis]

...you are probably thinking that it was the wrong thing to do, getting this bike, but when it is sussed it will be a cool bike...I chased the cutting out problem for a while, seemed to be fuel...buggered around with carbs, then petrol tap, then kill switch then bit the bullet, took F5 Dave's advice, tracked down a CDI/Ignitor...three second plug in job...SUSSED...not that it may not be carb float levels which is very critical to the running or shit in the carbs....as far as the shock goes...it looked like a fairly complex fix when I was lying on the shed floor looking at it all, but when I hoisted the bike on a chainblock, up to comfortable work height, it ended up being a piece of piss...maybe you can get away with cleaning the linkages up...maybe you need to track one down (a good one)...I took my girls out a few days back and running well it is a real fun bike to play on...

[Spazman727]

...you are probably thinking that it was the wrong thing to do, getting this bike, but when it is sussed it will be a cool bike...I chased the cutting out problem for a while, seemed to be fuel...buggered around with carbs, then petrol tap, then kill switch then bit the bullet, took F5 Dave's advice, tracked down a CDI/Ignitor...three second plug in job...SUSSED...not that it may not be carb float levels which is very critical to the running or shit in the carbs....as far as the shock goes...it looked like a fairly complex fix when I was lying on the shed floor looking at it all, but when I hoisted the bike on a chainblock, up to comfortable work height, it ended up being a piece of piss...maybe you can get away with cleaning the linkages up...maybe you need to track one down (a good one)...I took my girls out a few days back and running well it is a real fun bike to play on...

You know exactly how I feel. I'm also going to try all this stuff, when I get the funds. Hopefully not much more will go wrong. I can handle one thing at a time, but when it piles up like this it gets a bit disheartening.
It's nice to have you guys to ask advice from.

[ellipsis]

....Im a good builder but a very mediocre mechanic and I felt pretty much like you do now when this shit happened to me...a few local eggsperts had a look and put it in the too hard basket..being my wife's bike it was pretty much a necessity for me to be seen fixing it...Im really glad I persevered on my own and taught myself a couple more things that it would have been so easy to pay someone else to do...the biggest help came from here...carry on...

[Spazman727]

....Im a good builder but a very mediocre mechanic and I felt pretty much like you do now when this shit happened to me...a few local eggsperts had a look and put it in the too hard basket..being my wife's bike it was pretty much a necessity for me to be seen fixing it...Im really glad I persevered on my own and taught myself a couple more things that it would have been so easy to pay someone else to do...the biggest help came from here...carry on...

Thanks, I will carry on. My dad knows cars but not bikes but they aren't too dissimilar for his knowledge to mean nothing. I will carry on with it.

[Spazman727]

Finally got my rear shock sorted, thanks to Alec from SME and and Rob (nzspokes)
Feels like a different bike to ride.

[ellipsis]

....cool stuff...i have just returned from a couple of hours out on my girls one...best fun i've had in a while and it was all hanging around the speed limit range...did you get the running problems you had, sorted..

[nzspokes]

Finally got my rear shock sorted, thanks to Alec from SME and and Rob (nzspokes)
Feels like a different bike to ride.

Great stuff mate, glad to hear it. :niceone:

Alecs a great guy.

Its a nice bike youve got there.

[Spazman727]

....cool stuff...i have just returned from a couple of hours out on my girls one...best fun i've had in a while and it was all hanging around the speed limit range...did you get the running problems you had, sorted..

Haven't had a go at the carbs yet, need to wait till I get a bit more work to do those. Seems to start al right as long as I hold my mouth the right way. :rolleyes:

[nzspokes]

try turning the fuel top off when you park it and when starting. Its the float valves leaking so sitting you filling the motor with fuel. Which makes it very hard to start.

[Spazman727]

try turning the fuel top off when you park it and when starting. Its the float valves leaking so sitting you filling the motor with fuel. Which makes it very hard to start.

Ah ok, I'll try that.

[Spazman727]

Turning the fuel tap off has helped with starting, but the rear shock has failed again, looks like I'm going to need a new one.

[F5 Dave]

Downer

try ringing wreckers

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBX550F-CBX550-82-84-Rear-Shock-/120643011353

[Spazman727]

Downer

try ringing wreckers

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBX550F-CBX550-82-84-Rear-Shock-/120643011353

I emailed the guy in that ad to see if it still works. Will try some wreckers tomorrow.

[F5 Dave]

Course he will say something along the lines of "it came off a working bike". . . (in 1989) so its a gamble.

[Spazman727]

Got a shock from a wrecker in Takapuna, seems to be good.

[F5 Dave]

Excellent, buy local.

[Spazman727]

Excellent, buy local.

Yeah, and i think cheaper than one from England would have been, with shipping and everything. Plus it has a guarantee so win win.

[ellipsis]

...cool...:woohoo:

[Spazman727]

Ok, the new (2nd hand) shock has died, after riding for about 7 days or so from the Shore to Manukau. Any ideas why the bike is killing shocks like this? I'm not riding it hard or anything, and I haven't had a pillion on it since I put the new one in, and I'm quite light. The shock is set to about 40psi, well within the recommended limits for the shock (according to my Hayes manual).

This is beginning to get rather irritating so if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

Cheers.

[Spazman727]

The guy at the Honda shop up the road said he didn't know much about this type of bike, but that maybe I could get a different type of shock, i.e. an outer sprung dealio which might help. I can't find anyone of the entire internet with a similar problem. the Honda guy said that judging by the original shock that I took in the frame was all good and he had not other suggestions other than that that type of shock was a bit dodgy.