Anodizing - bring your knowledge

[tigertim20]

Im looking at getting some custom plates made up due to a breakage of a bike part.
The breakage is a part that has lots of threaded holes aka base plate for an adjustable rearset.
If Im going to get the part I need, I want it anodized, but want to know should I get the shape cut and holes drilled, then anodize, then tap out the holes, or will it be fine to tap the holes before anodizing?

Im not particularly knowledgeable when it comes to anodizing, and im not sure how the process would affect threads:confused:

[Pussy]

I would tap the holes before anodising.
The anodising layer is only microns thick.
IF you have to, it's no drama to clean the threads with a tap anyway.

[Ocean1]

Finish the part, then anodize it. There's no build-up and it does harden the surface slightly.

[FJRider]

You can ... and re-tap the thread to clean it prior to bolting it on the bike. Or put threaded bolts on the threads and unbolt them from the plate prior to fitting.

6 of one ... 1/2 dozen of the other really.

[Ocean1]

Oh, and different alloys colour differently. Some not at all. If it's important take a test piece in.

[Pussy]

Im looking at getting some custom plates made up due to a breakage of a bike part.
The breakage is a part that has lots of threaded holes aka base plate for an adjustable rearset.
If Im going to get the part I need, I want it anodized, but want to know should I get the shape cut and holes drilled, then anodize, then tap out the holes, or will it be fine to tap the holes before anodizing?

Im not particularly knowledgeable when it comes to anodizing, and im not sure how the process would affect threads:confused:

edbear will be along shortly with an in-depth opinion on the matter anyway! :D

[ducatilover]

Oh, and different alloys colour differently. Some not at all. If it's important take a test piece in.
Cast alloy being horrible to anodise.

As others have said, it's so thin it won't matter.
Might pay to research what kind of alloy you will be using before going ahead with it, some materials in the alloys can react and leave it looking like poo.

[Fast Eddie]

where are you getting ur shit anodized tim? and whats the pricing like?

I want to have my aprilia front forks anodized gold aye..

[tigertim20]

Ocean1 and Ducatilover - I dont know what I will get it made out of yet - I wanna get some base plates made up for my adjustable rearsets but thats a good point. any recommendations on what I should use? I am assuming that going 6061 would be overspec for the needs? (not that being overspec'd is a real problem) but I havent got that far ahead yet. Im just researching the idea vs just buying new shit


where are you getting ur shit anodized tim? and whats the pricing like?

I want to have my aprilia front forks anodized gold aye..

I have no idea mate - I had a bin at the track, (end of levels straight - loong story) anyway I wanna get some new base plates made for my adjustable rearsets. I havent yet looked into where to get it done, but if I find a good place Ill let ya know, if you return the favour.

I have some stock items I can swap in in the meantime anyway, so no hurries - I just got my hands on a CR125 for fuckall, so I will be spending some time on that too now

Ocean1 and Ducatilover -

[Kickaha]

I havent yet looked into where to get it done, but if I find a good place Ill let ya know, if you return the favour.


I'm getting a rim done up here soon so I will let you know how it turns out, cast they've said turns out shit and if you want a good finish get it polished first

[Pussy]

I have seen anodising done on bits with light machining marks... it looked pretty good!

[Fast Eddie]

I had a bin at the track,(end of levels straight - loong story

prob not that long eh.. what did u do.. go down the straight.. then crash?

[Kickaha]

prob not that long eh.. what did u do.. go down the straight.. then crash?

:laugh::laugh:, pretty short story

Bet you a chocolate fish he's going to blame someone else

[Fast Eddie]

hehe i want to keep my choc fish so no bet for you.. lets wait and see..

[Grumph]

Plate alloy bought over the counter in NZ is usually 5000 series and is usually quite adequate for bike use. However if you've got a lot of tapped holes in the piece, I'd go for 6061 which is readily available, anodises better, and is a tad stronger while still being adequately ductile....ie, it'll bend before it breaks.

Just pick your crashes better - hard enough to break 5000 but not hard enough to break 6061.....

[tigertim20]

I'm getting a rim done up here soon so I will let you know how it turns out, cast they've said turns out shit and if you want a good finish get it polished first
that would be really good to know!!

:laugh::laugh:, pretty short story

Bet you a chocolate fish he's going to blame someone else
well that is the short version yeah, - I know what happened, been over and over it in my mind. Nobody elses fault - basically spending my dollar in too many places was the cause.

[Fast Eddie]

just a twist of the wrist..

[nzspokes]

Interesting thread. I would like to make new plates for mine to lower it a bit.

[Old Steve]

With regard to tapped holes in aluminium. A lot of manufacturers are now installing Powercoil (helicoil) inserts at the factory stage. This gives a stronger thread with less chance of crossthreading. A kit to thread and insert an M10 thread would include ten or a dozen inserts and cost $80 or so (comes complete with appropriate sized drill, tap to give a final/insert thread of M10, the inserts and an inserting tool). I'd always install Powercoil inserts when dealing with aluminium even if I had to go to a thicker material (which would stand up to crashes a little better anyway).

[tigertim20]

thanks for the replies people - it turns out that my cheapy rearsets manufacturer can supply individual parts after all, so probably wont need to get anything custom made at this stage

[nudemetalz]

Different grade alloys clean up differently and give a brighter or duller anodised finish. Cleaning the piece up nicely, I use 1200, 1500 and then 2000 grade wet and dry on my alloy pieces. Takes away all machining marks and imperfections. Comes out awesome. As everyone has said here, machine the holes first and clean them up, then anodise.

[The Lone Rider]

This seemed to be the best thread about anodising.

I've got a large number of parts I want either chromed, anodised, polished n clear coated, or powder coated.

The parts are - All the handlebar hardware and forward control hardware, plus front
wheel, rear wheel, and rear brake hub and brake arm.

Only issue might
be the master cylinder, as it has a small plastic window and rubber seals etc.


Any ideas? I suppose the levers are cast and therefore would look like crap if anodised?