View Full Version : Fuel additives
SMOKEU
24th March 2012, 18:14
Is it worth putting any fuel additive in occasionally to keep the carbies clean on a GSXR600, or are the additives a waste of money?
ducatilover
24th March 2012, 18:22
AFAIL they're a waste of money.
You'd be better off having the tank sealed nicely (POR-15 or similar) and to ride it lots :yes:
bsasuper
24th March 2012, 20:07
A sealed tank is nice, and it will keep all the crap that slowley builds up there too.I used it on my carbed bikes every few thousad k's and it disolved all the varnish build up.
Motu
24th March 2012, 20:44
I fill my tank with water and just drop in a pill, a much better system. Just have to remember not to put one in the radiator.
scumdog
24th March 2012, 20:46
Is it worth putting any fuel additive in occasionally to keep the carbies clean on a GSXR600, or are the additives a waste of money?
I've got 500ml of 'snake-oyl' that will give you 50% increase in power and economy AND make yer whanger a shitload larger too...
Save your $$$.
spanner spinner
24th March 2012, 21:42
fuel injecter cleaner is worth giving a try if you have a problem, but if the bike is running fine it will do nothing except cost you money. 1/2 a cup of meths every six months will help if there is a small amount of moisture build up and its cheep.
p.dath
25th March 2012, 07:33
AFAIL they're a waste of money.
You'd be better off having the tank sealed nicely (POR-15 or similar) and to ride it lots :yes:
+1. If they helped that much the fuel companies would put those same additives in and sell it at a premium.
YellowDog
25th March 2012, 07:46
+1. If they helped that much the fuel companies would put those same additives in and sell it at a premium.
I thought that's what they already do :shit:
If you ride your bike at >5000rpm, then there's nothing to fix.
If you are a City commuter, then you need all the help you can get to keep the horrible black stuff at bay :yes:
Zedder
25th March 2012, 09:41
I tried a carb cleaning fuel additive in my bike which did the job. Good tip about the meths though.
Tigadee
27th March 2012, 07:24
Wouldn't it be the same to run a tankful of 98 through the system?
gammaguy
27th March 2012, 09:31
like the man said
meths is all you need:yes:
hic
slofox
27th March 2012, 12:02
like the man said
meths is all you need:yes:
hic
Meths you buy at the shop contains colouring and "bittering agents" (to stop you drinking it!). These may or may not be good for your engine. Better to get some spirit from someone with a home still - preferably a reflux still that produces 92% alcohol.
Or you could just add half a tank of Gull force 10 - which would be roughly equivalent to the addition suggested. You could always work out the exact percentage if you are obsessive-compulsive about it.
caspernz
27th March 2012, 17:28
The synthetic fuels such as BP 98 or Mobil 8000 have a high detergent action, so a tank or two of that stuff is all I use a couple of times a year.
Meths to clear water from the tank, sure that works.
Use fuel system cleaner additive if you like, I've found the synfuel option to be more cost effective personally.
Mungatoke Mad
28th March 2012, 20:45
I've never used Meths but have used isopropyl alcohol thru the tank seemed to do the job
Flip
29th March 2012, 16:04
A small say 5% ethanol blend will only dissolve a minor fraction more water than std pump gas. Pump gas from memory can contain about 0.1% dissolved water and still meet the fuel regs. Keep in mind that none of the rubber fuel components on your bike will like running on a high methanol or ethanol blend fuel. If you think you have wet fuel drain and wash out the tank.
You could add a little "valvemaster" which is a good fuel system detergent that helps to dissolve the crap and gum left after the fuel has naturally evaporated and oxidised. A little tetraethyl lead will promote good high efficiency combustion in some motors, but its now technically illegal for road use.
There are a few snake oil products out there which makes wang bigger, if you need help that is. keep in mind that Mr Honda has spent the GDP of NZ getting his bike to run the best it can on std pump gas, so WTF would he know.
One thing, IMHO none of the fuel here is filtered before you buy it, NONE. All the crap, dirt and rust from the boat, the storage terminal, the road tanker and the service stations underground tanks ends up in your fuel tank. I have a fine gause strainer on my vintage bikes gas filler and its often has small dirt like specks in it after I have filled the bike.
caspernz
29th March 2012, 17:54
One thing, IMHO none of the fuel here is filtered before you buy it, NONE. All the crap, dirt and rust from the boat, the storage terminal, the road tanker and the service stations underground tanks ends up in your fuel tank. I have a fine gause strainer on my vintage bikes gas filler and its often has small dirt like specks in it after I have filled the bike.
That comment is somewhat off the mark.
Fuel terminals run floating suction lines, with low point drains taking care of the settled out solid contaminants and water.
At the servo it's similar, the suction line isn't on the bottom of the tank but a little ways up. Regular sucking out of low points deals with crap and water. Basic filters on pumps feeding the bowsers, but yep very small contaminants will always have the chance to get thru. Change the fuel filter on your own vehicle as per manufacturers' idea and all is good.
Flip
30th March 2012, 20:18
The filter on the dispencers is a coarse strainer, a nut and bolt catcher to save the flow meter from damage only. There are multiple paths for dirt and water to enter the fuel in the aged distribution and retail assets.
Do you know how frequently the retail fuel in NZ meets the new fuel regs espcially in regards to total contamination?
The servos don't lock up their fuel after a fill and the sludge in the fuel has been mixed up, and the next customer gets a load. Further to this when the terminals are short of fuel, guess where they get the fuel from....
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