Moving my pegs, will this be ok?

[nzspokes]

Im looking at moving my pegs. Im finding on longer rides im getting a bit sore. So I want to move them down and back a bit. What im thinking of doing is making plates to go between the frame and the mount. Any reason this wont work? It will move the pegs out a bit as well but that dosent bother me. I will be putting race pegs on also.

[Pussy]

You might find that there is a lot longer reach to the gear and brake pedals.

[nzspokes]

You might find that there is a lot longer reach to the gear and brake pedals.

Both are mounted to the peg mounting plates so they stay in proportion to the pegs. There will be a bit of arsing about to make them work but nothing major.

[bogan]

'jump plates' like you propose are pretty common, lot of rearset kits just come with a jump plate containing heaps of holes for adjustment; looks fugly imo. Make sure to use decent thickness plate (>10mm at a guess, but maybe add a mm for every pie per day) too, otherwise you will just flex them.

[nzspokes]

Was thinking of making the plates the same thickness as the frame. But could use steel and go thinner.

[mossy1200]

When i had a gs1200ss I found it to be cramped but I got my seat repacked and lifted 30mm instead of moving pegs.You may find that could be the best solution.It cost me $90.00 3 years ago to do it.

[bogan]

Was thinking of making the plates the same thickness as the frame. But could use steel and go thinner.

Yeh could do, give it a weight test anyway, you'll be able to see/feel the flex in it without putting yourself at risk.

Also, what do you mean by race pegs? fixed pegs?

[nzspokes]

Yeh could do, give it a weight test anyway, you'll be able to see/feel the flex in it without putting yourself at risk.

Also, what do you mean by race pegs? fixed pegs?

Just the little round alloy pegs.

Yeah will be making sure its strong.

[Pussy]

Both are mounted to the peg mounting plates so they stay in proportion to the pegs. There will be a bit of arsing about to make them work but nothing major.

In that case you will probably only need a slightly longer shift rod. More than likely left hand thread on one end too.

[nzspokes]

When i had a gs1200ss I found it to be cramped but I got my seat repacked and lifted 30mm instead of moving pegs.You may find that could be the best solution.It cost me $90.00 3 years ago to do it.

I had thought of that but I would rather do it this way. My thoughts are that it would put me more into the airstream and alter the COG.

[nzspokes]

In that case you will probably only need a slightly longer shift rod. More than likely left hand thread on one end too.

Yeah had thought of that.

[mossy1200]

I had thought of that but I would rather do it this way. My thoughts are that it would put me more into the airstream and alter the COG.

Yeah the gs seat is very low indead and im 6.4 . I think that bike was desighned for riders 5.6 and under to be honest.
Just try not get the pegs so low they scrap alot.I fitted gsxr1000 race rearsets to 1989 Fzr1000 with no issues but i moved them up 40mm and back 30mm.The connecting rods where adjustable so no issues there.the only big one was moving the master brake cylinder for rear brake.

[nzspokes]

Yeah the gs seat is very low indead and im 6.4 . I think that bike was desighned for riders 5.6 and under to be honest.
Just try not get the pegs so low they scrap alot.I fitted gsxr1000 race rearsets to 1989 Fzr1000 with no issues but i moved them up 40mm and back 30mm.The connecting rods where adjustable so no issues there.the only big one was moving the master brake cylinder for rear brake.

On mine the M/cyl is mounted to the bracket also. I will have to space it inwards to clear the exhaust. It wont scrape as im a pussy.

[mossy1200]

On mine the M/cyl is mounted to the bracket also. I will have to space it inwards to clear the exhaust. It wont scrape as im a pussy.

I had to move my exaust to suit the pegs.260386

[FJRider]

Moving the pegs down and out ... will mean it will touch the tarmac sooner while cornering. Stay on straight roads and you'll be fine though. :lol:

[nzspokes]

Moving the pegs down and out ... will mean it will touch the tarmac sooner while cornering. Stay on straight roads and you'll be fine though. :lol:

Pretty sure the centre stand will hit first. :facepalm:

[FJRider]

I had to move my exaust to suit the pegs.

I just fitted forward pegs ...

[FJRider]

Pretty sure the centre stand will hit first. :facepalm:

Get a few mates .... and lean it over and see.

[nzspokes]

I just fitted forward pegs ...

Well long term I want a bandit 1200s. So will get motor bars and do the same thing.

[FROSTY]

As above mentioned remounting the whole shooting match backwards and outwards is pretty easy. the right side is dead easy given the brake master is on the peg and moves back as much as out so kinda counters out need fr longer hose.
The gearshift though may be more of an issue than you realise. If its a lever straight out of the crankcase no worries. You can rotate it a bit on the spline to get it back inline with the boot.
If its actually lever on bracket with two linkages to the pivot on the crankcase then you'll find things are a bit more complicated.
Given the small amount back you are proposing the combination of unthreading a few turns and rotating the shifter on the crankcase splines a few degrees will likely get you the extra lenth. BUT you are also asking the whole plot to work at an outward angle.
I'm pretty sure its gonna bind up on you. So I feel you'll need a Z plate rather than just a flat plate and accept you get back/down but not outward change.

[Grant`]

After fitting adjustable rearsets, What I thought was going to be the right thing for me, was completely different to what I ended up with... So probably put something to gether crudely first and test it out for comfort instead of going all out and then being unhappy with it..

[nzspokes]

Can you get shorter brackets that go from the rear brake lever to the master cylinder? Mines about 24mm long.

I just need to drop my lever a bit more and all will be good with the world.

[AllanB]

Go for it.

I made some alloy ones up for my Hornet - back 35 mm up 5mm. Work a treat. You'll need to make a extender for the shift-rod otherwise ensure there is swing-arm clearance when you mount them rearwards - watch the brake side clearance.

I made the sprocket cover in the picture too - get into it!