Fast Eddie's Aprilia RS250 rebuild & restore [Archive]

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 14:13

Kia ora,

After purchasing a rather tired Aprilia RS250, I pulled it apart a little bit to see how things are looking.

Stripped bolt after stripped bolt, shoddy wiring, insulation tape where it shouldn't be. Broken parts, missing parts - Rust and corrosion, oil leaks and odd noises were all included in the buying price.

So I decided, to have a good go at giving this old 2 stroke race rep a return to its glory days.

The aim, to rebuild this old smoker into a clean fire breathing example of the breed, hoping the end product will look as good or better than when she rolled off the factory floor in 1994.

Comments, advice, ideas and motivation welcome...

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 14:16

My new home away from home (about 1.5 meters from said home), workbench converts into a bed ;) haha and a kindly donated 5.1 surround sound stereo shakes the walls to keep me entertained :D

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p.s. I clicked delete this post by mistake - it hasnt disappeared for me so thought maybe u click it and then a mod comes and does it - if so, dont delete :D i clicked delete by mistake (a few times)
not sure if its gone for other members - should be a photo above and 4 photos below

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 14:20

Old pistons

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Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 14:23

Cylinders as they came off. rusted through water spigot, powervalves a bit messy, stripped screws etc.

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Crasherfromwayback

2nd April 2012, 14:25

Old pistons

O dear!!!!!!!

blackdog

2nd April 2012, 14:36

Subscribed.

nodrog

2nd April 2012, 14:51

Atleast the sparkplug still looks usable.

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 16:55

Whipped the tyres off the rims in prep for 'sprucing up'

What do we think.. Full polished, polished lip with red spokes, polished lip with black spokes.

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Ducatilover should stroll across this eventually - how do I start the hand polishing procedure bro? I have some pretty gritty sandpaper lying around but not sure if its too rough to start with?

How do you do it?

tigertim20

2nd April 2012, 17:08

you werent kidding about the skirt... fuck me!

well, while its apart might as well go all the way eh?

Will be keen to keep an eye on this and see how the progress goes!

Sable

2nd April 2012, 17:59

Don't polish those!

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 18:20

and why not...

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 18:21

you werent kidding about the skirt... fuck me!

well, while its apart might as well go all the way eh?

Will be keen to keep an eye on this and see how the progress goes!

chur :) prob take a while.. winter project. most of the funds get tied up with racing n shit but will hopefully make good progress on it.

Cylinders are at an eng shop getting looked at, and they are removing the old rusted out water spigots and extracting some broken screws. Hopefully get em back soon

Sable

2nd April 2012, 18:34

They look good the way they are, also polishing is a lot of work and you have to do it continually or you get alu corrosion.

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 18:51

fair enough, but they are pretty plain. it will be solid black bike with black wheels.

Frame is polished, figured I would just polish the rim of the wheel and leave the spokes and centers black. Or possibly red as there are red Chesterfield sponsors decals to go on the bodywork to replicate the 94 250GP world champ winning bike

ducatilover

2nd April 2012, 19:32

Ducatilover should stroll across this eventually - how do I start the hand polishing procedure bro? I have some pretty gritty sandpaper lying around but not sure if its too rough to start with?

How do you do it? Fuck, thems some yummy rims!:yes:

I always start with 320ish grit wet/dry paper, but I also don't use paint stripper (CBF buying it, I'm the biggest jew!)
So, my suggestion? Paint stripper! Then:

If it's fairly smooth casting start with 600, rub for a million years, then go 800 (do it all wet too) until you can't see marks from the 600, then go 1200 and keep going 'till you can't see any 800 marks, dry it off and autosol it, I always do several applications of autosol.

Great thread bro, subbed!

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 19:44

Fuck, thems some yummy rims!:yes:

Shot bro! will get into it tomorrow.. never used wet/dry sandpaper before.. how wet do you get it? I'll get some from bunnings tomorrow.

I'm jew as too so won't bother with paint stripper.. but see how bored I get of sanding eh!

ducatilover

2nd April 2012, 19:54

Good luck man, took me 4 hours before I was happy with my front one.
I should pick up some more paint and get the rear done too.

I keep a bowl of water with me or a small bucket, just slam the paper in there and go for gold.
Also, cut a small bit of scothbrite pad or something of the sort to use as a "sanding block" and don't follow the direction you're sanding with your finger tips (if that makes sense) because you'll leave low points in the ally and it will show up, if you're like me you'll re-do the entire thing because of a minor low point lol

Fast Eddie

2nd April 2012, 20:10

Also, cut a small bit of scothbrite pad or something of the sort to use as a "sanding block" and don't follow the direction you're sanding with your finger tips (if that makes sense)

yip make sense, instead of pushing along with the fingertips forwards/backwards I should rather go side to side?

also, since I won't use paint stripper, getting rid of the initial paint should that be done wet sand as well or ok dry?

Chur.. see how I go tomorrow haha.. I can prob find four hours to kill

ducatilover

2nd April 2012, 21:00

yip make sense, instead of pushing along with the fingertips forwards/backwards I should rather go side to side?

also, since I won't use paint stripper, getting rid of the initial paint should that be done wet sand as well or ok dry?

Chur.. see how I go tomorrow haha.. I can prob find four hours to kill

Yup, side to side and treat it like a bruised clit, be gentle.

Dry or wet, doesn't really matter, the paper I have doesn't get clogged when wet or dry and it's just some cheapo white crap from Bunnings lol

Fast Eddie

3rd April 2012, 17:17

the paint on these rims laughed at my 320 sandpaper, went to some real gritty stuff, 80 or lower. Fuck it takes a long time. But I do like what they will look like so will continue. Still not sure though, Red center with polished lips or black centers. The black does look classy. Black bike, but will have some large red patches on it from the chesterfield sponsor stickers and will prob have red cylinder heads too. so red could go too. Tough choice.

Here are the rims after todays sanding and scrubbing efforts, will carry on another day. very slow work

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blackdog

3rd April 2012, 17:20

It won't make it easier to clean, but black will hide the dirt better.

sil3nt

3rd April 2012, 17:28

Should have left them all black IMO. Could have got some red wheel stripes to rice it up a bit!

Fast Eddie

3rd April 2012, 17:37

Should have left them all black IMO. Could have got some red wheel stripes to rice it up a bit!

ya recon? all black bike, black wheels, black tyres.. I'd fall asleep looking at it. (wheel stripes don't do it for me)

I'm one of those that likes bright/shiny things... ostrich i think they call 'em

Can always paint them all black again later if I get bored of the shiny lips.

ducatilover

3rd April 2012, 17:39

I reckon you're all retards and they look choice.
What size tyres do they run?
Nice sneaky swingarm in one pic too, looks nice!

Fast Eddie

3rd April 2012, 17:50

I reckon you're all retards and they look choice.

hehe :yes: I recon too, they look pretty choice to me haha.. gonna be a hard choice between red and black centers tho.

What size tyres do they run?
Nice sneaky swingarm in one pic too, looks nice!

front is a 110/70 R17 and rear is a 160/60 R17.. got the old tyres on trademe as I will be looking to buy a matching set of something sticky like honey when the bike is finished. it came with a shinko on the front and a dunlop sportmax on the rear. Not my choice of tyres ;)

hehe swingarm and frame are already polished so should be pretty nice, plastics will probably need a repaint and a few bits and pieces will paint again, prob the rear sub frame, the triple clamps top n bottom. new clip ons and levers are on the cards and hopefully rear sets too. will be cleaning the engine up externally as well and painting a few parts that look a bit old.

ducatilover

3rd April 2012, 18:29

hehe :yes: I recon too, they look pretty choice to me haha.. gonna be a hard choice between red and black centers tho.

front is a 110/70 R17 and rear is a 160/60 R17.. got the old tyres on trademe as I will be looking to buy a matching set of something sticky like honey when the bike is finished. it came with a shinko on the front and a dunlop sportmax on the rear. Not my choice of tyres ;)

hehe swingarm and frame are already polished so should be pretty nice, plastics will probably need a repaint and a few bits and pieces will paint again, prob the rear sub frame, the triple clamps top n bottom. new clip ons and levers are on the cards and hopefully rear sets too. will be cleaning the engine up externally as well and painting a few parts that look a bit old.

I'd go black, red looks grouse, but I'm not sure with a polished lip.

Hmmm...so I know what rims I want when I upgrade mine...
I'll have to try get the measurements for the swinger, axles and sprocket offsets :whistle:

It's going to look brilliant bro.
If it was mine, it'd be Rosso-Corsa red (fap fap fap) with gold center rims and plenty of polishing.

Hey, my bike had IRC tyres...:sick: PP 2CTs now

Fast Eddie

3rd April 2012, 18:49

If it was mine, it'd be Rosso-Corsa red (fap fap fap) with gold center rims and plenty of polishing.

hmmm, gold centers with polished lip..

forks want to be gold, callipers are Brembo and gold. disc carriers are gold..

tough choices aye

ducatilover

3rd April 2012, 18:54

hmmm, gold centers with polished lip..

forks want to be gold, callipers are Brembo and gold. disc carriers are gold..

tough choices aye

Yep, details are pricks, awesome if you're the man like me and work them out :innocent:

Fast Eddie

3rd April 2012, 20:22

whos good with that photoshop thing. someone edit my images into red centers and gold centers so I can see my options ;)

ducatilover

3rd April 2012, 21:08

whos good with that photoshop thing. someone edit my images into red centers and gold centers so I can see my options ;)

Put up a thread lol

gatch

3rd April 2012, 22:14

If you polish those wheels up nice, you could get them anodized.. Would make cleaning them again a whole heaps easier.

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 11:14

If you polish those wheels up nice, you could get them anodized.. Would make cleaning them again a whole heaps easier.

chur, I'm hunting for a place that anodizes stuff in dunners. I want to get my forks done for sure and now that u bring it up, rims in a nice anodized gold would look tight. sort of rip off Marchesini rims

Crasherfromwayback

4th April 2012, 11:55

chur, I'm hunting for a place that anodizes stuff in dunners. I want to get my forks done for sure and now that u bring it up, rims in a nice anodized gold would look tight. sort of rip off Marchesini rims

Don't do 'em gold. It's so 80's!

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 13:15

god damn, who knew building up a bike was so complicated..

everythings been done before really polished lips and polished wheels are old news too - that satin/anodized gold does look pretty good on bikes though. I like it. I could go anodized blue or red.. usually looks pretty silky smooth too.

Done a bit more stripping on the wheels, the lips are a really nice smooth cast but once u get to the spokes the cast is pretty rough/porous.. dunno if I have the patience to get them smooth/polished enough by hand to anodize.

and heres my next question. my forks already look like they are anodized from factory.. they are a purple color I think.. can u even get the old anodized coating/layer off by hand/diy? or can you anodize over old anodize? they have to go gold lol.

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 13:21

having a tough time pulling my front forks apart too.. any tips advice? do I need any specialist tools..

I'v only done conventional/normal forks on my blade and I don't need anything special for those but yea these upside down jobbies are confusing me..

The Aprilia has a very wierd front setup, one fork does one job and the other fork does something else. One is damping and the other like rebound or something wierd in the manual it calls one hydraulic brake leg and the other is spring compression leg

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 13:39

one reed valve from bottom cylinder was clean as a whistle and looks good.

reed valve from top cylinder however was rather black...

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although being a bit black the flaps still look fine and make a good seal over the opening. seem to open and spring closed well. The black stuff cleans off a bit i rubbed a corner.

But what is this telling me about the top cylinder? anyone knows a bit bout strokers enlighten me. (you know, like you can tell whats going on in the cylinder by condition of piston/spark plug I assume I could learn something from the cond of these too maybe..

ducatilover

4th April 2012, 13:57

The anodising people will soda blast the forks (I think they use soda blasting) to get the old ano off.
I think the polished lip and black centers will suit it down to the ground.

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 14:36

The anodising people will soda blast the forks (I think they use soda blasting) to get the old ano off.
I think the polished lip and black centers will suit it down to the ground.

yea just been out in the shed lookin at the rims now with shiny lip and black centers. it looks classy. think I'll go with that aye, gold forks, gold discs and gold brembos will be enough gold on it haha. thinking what to do with the triple clamps too.

gonna have to get nice levers and rear sets too.. sigh.

and exhausts, oh man..

haha. back to the shed got engine work to do (crank is looking iffy) and got to try and get the front forks apart myself so I can take em to a local outfit who recons they do anodizing.

ducatilover

4th April 2012, 14:43

tigertim20

4th April 2012, 17:41

who is it that does the anodizing?
be interested to know their prices, color availability and quality

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 17:51

who is it that does the anodizing?
be interested to know their prices, color availability and quality

Sup bro, I'm just waiting for proper quotes back from 2 places, one is Otago Galvanisers, they are local here in Dunners and recon they can do anodizing well so I asked them for a quote for my 2 fork tubes, and my 2 triple clamps. Second option is Advanced Anodizing Ltd in Tokoroa, works on a send them ur parts and they send them back for you. They have a bit more experience with fork tubes and bike parts in particular having done a few. Again waiting on some solid figures via e-mail, fork tubes and triples again but I also asked him how much 2 wheels would cost. Will update when I get the quotes.

They also said don't bother prepping yourself since they usually have to do it again themselves unless your super amazing at it theres a chance it won't be perfect and they will just have to re do it. So yea just send the parts as is and they come back all shiny and new.. but at what cost... :sweatdrop

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 17:53

When you go to look for rear-sets, PM bogan on here, I think he's looking in to making some and he does good work (I trust him with my bike lol and I don't trust myself)
Ima steal your brembos though, okay? And your wheels.

haha, brembos are pimp, they are pretty tidy so will just give them a scrub and hopefully they look shiny and good. the wheels are looking mint too haha I like em. Mrs seems to like my idea of red centers with polished lip.. curse her.. I do like the black center as is tho it looks tight.

... and no, you can't have em! :oi-grr:

gatch

4th April 2012, 19:36

Sup bro, I'm just waiting for proper quotes back from 2 places, one is Otago Galvanisers, they are local here in Dunners

http://www.anodising.co.nz/default.aspx

There's these cats too. We send our stuff from work to them. We've never had any problem with their work.

tigertim20

4th April 2012, 19:53

Sup bro, I'm just waiting for proper quotes back from 2 places, one is Otago Galvanisers, they are local here in Dunners and recon they can do anodizing well so I asked them for a quote for my 2 fork tubes, and my 2 triple clamps. Second option is Advanced Anodizing Ltd in Tokoroa, works on a send them ur parts and they send them back for you. They have a bit more experience with fork tubes and bike parts in particular having done a few. Again waiting on some solid figures via e-mail, fork tubes and triples again but I also asked him how much 2 wheels would cost. Will update when I get the quotes.

They also said don't bother prepping yourself since they usually have to do it again themselves unless your super amazing at it theres a chance it won't be perfect and they will just have to re do it. So yea just send the parts as is and they come back all shiny and new.. but at what cost... :sweatdrop

heh, yeah well cost is the big question innit. Id probably go with the experienced lads for the fork tubes if theyve done them before.

Which place did you send the engine parts into in the end, the place by dick smiths, or the stafford street lot?
Cost me $15 for a hone at stafford st - pretty happy with that!

-edit the cost of wheels would be interesting re the anodizing, I dont blame them for saying dont bother with prepping yourself, any half decent painter will say the same - the prep has a massive effect on the final product, and theyll only wanna do it once

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 20:33

http://www.anodising.co.nz/default.aspx

There's these cats too. We send our stuff from work to them. We've never had any problem with their work.

wicked, cheers for the link will ring them up too for a quote - did you send them motorbike parts or other stuff? the one guys I rang had done a few fork tubes and bike parts before so they were confident at least.

Fast Eddie

4th April 2012, 20:37

Which place did you send the engine parts into in the end, the place by dick smiths, or the stafford street lot?
Cost me $15 for a hone at stafford st - pretty happy with that!

the cylinders are at a place called United Engineers, its by the skatepark and train station area. They are just removing some broken screws and the rusted out water spigots out of the cylinders for me cause I couldn't get them out with the tools I had sadly. They are cheap and do cash jobs on the side which is sweet

Will take it to the stafford st place for a look at a hone out.. but I think its complicated with these cylinders due to the nikasil coating? but not sure if they actually have that coating or not. havent confirmed it online yet. maybe someone on here knows..

oh also, the Advanced Anodizing place said they could get any color you wanted pretty much :) depends on whats being anodized etc but yea, they said they could do any color you wanted if they didnt have it they would source it. but they def did the gold and black which i want for now

footprintracing

4th April 2012, 21:26

Awesome thread Fast Eddie! Good following someone elses project when youve got one on yourself to glean ideas and info off :yes: Will have to look into anodizing my front forks as well at that place in Tokoroa i think :woohoo:

ducatilover

4th April 2012, 21:32

Nikasil makes me facepalm. Thankfully our petrols aren't too sulfuric so our Nikasil bores don't tend to get eaten too fast.

Fuck ya, I want brembos now. Cunt.

gatch

4th April 2012, 22:34

wicked, cheers for the link will ring them up too for a quote - did you send them motorbike parts or other stuff? the one guys I rang had done a few fork tubes and bike parts before so they were confident at least.

Nar I've never sent them anything personally, some ali pneumatic cylinders though. Which is the same sort of deal as fork. Thin ali tubes. Came back mint. If it is decorative anodizing, the coloring is just a dye they add in at some point.. Easy stuff.

I intend to get my fork bottoms, frame and swingarm done at some point.

Fast Eddie

6th April 2012, 14:41

gatch

6th April 2012, 15:05

These water spigots are not cast in are they? anyone know?

Engineer shop recons they can't get them out and asked me if they were cast in and I said nah, cause on TTW they sell the little spigots..

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I wouldn't have thought so. But I have been wrong before.

Do the replacement ones have a thread on them ? If they are the same they could be so badly corroded they are essentially welded in. May need to be bored out. Tell them it shouldn't take more than an hour. If they whinge, send them to me and I'll do it for cash. and a fang on the bike when it's finished... :D

Fast Eddie

6th April 2012, 16:39

Do the replacement ones have a thread on them ? If they are the same they could be so badly corroded they are essentially welded in. May need to be bored out. Tell them it shouldn't take more than an hour. If they whinge, send them to me and I'll do it for cash. and a fang on the bike when it's finished... :D

haha, you don't live in Dunedin tho do ya?

The replacement ones have no thread on them.. I assumed you just sorta banged them in with a soft face hammer..

The ones in there are pretty bad, in the photo you can see its rusted right through the pipe, a few holes.

Madness

6th April 2012, 16:45

the cylinders are at a place called United Engineers, its by the skatepark and train station area. They are cheap and do cash jobs on the side which is sweet.

The Inland Revenue Department thanks you for your post.

Fast Eddie

6th April 2012, 16:51

The Inland Revenue Department thanks you for your post.

lol :facepalm: its welcome. I'm sure they pay tax. They just don't have eftpos - cash only. and cash jobs on the side was meant as in for general public bringing in bike cylinders. they usually do commercial stuff and are quite busy every time i go in but are friendly and keen to help out when they can fit it in between their proper work

gatch

6th April 2012, 22:40

haha, you don't live in Dunedin tho do ya?

The replacement ones have no thread on them.. I assumed you just sorta banged them in with a soft face hammer..

The ones in there are pretty bad, in the photo you can see its rusted right through the pipe, a few holes.

Have you got access to a die grinder ? You may be able to grind (CAREFULLY !!) into the inside of the spigots, to make thin spots, then cave them in with a punch, or something.

Or get them machined out..

No I live in palmerston north. I work in a machine shop..

gammaguy

6th April 2012, 23:12

to answer some of your questions,not necessarily in any order

never hone the cylinders,they are hard coated and doing so will fuck them.replace the pistons with new ones,oversizes are NOT available.

the water pipe is pressed in.to get a corroded one out,it will need to be either heated and pulled out or basically destroyed from within with a die grinder.

when you put it all back together,use coolant mixed at 50%.or you will be doing all this again.

Be very careful with the power valves,they are a weak point and fall into the cylinder when worn and fuck everything inside.If in doubt,replace them.There is a crowd in australia making improved ones,google it.

check the bottom end,because a new top end on a worn bottom end means you will soon be seeing all those parts again a lot sooner than you expected.

dont cut corners on oil,use a good quality 2T full synthetic(im not getting into the brand wars,I have my personal favorite,you probably have yours)

And yes,i know a lot about these engines....I sell them, have rebuilt many of them and even helped a good friend of mine almost win a championship with one a few years back.

good luck flying the 2T flag,I have done so for years.:brick:

Fast Eddie

7th April 2012, 12:02

good luck flying the 2T flag,I have done so for years.:brick:

Cheers. Yes I know the cylinders are coated in Nikasil I believe
Must be able to hone out the cylinders and recoat them though? surely one can recondition them - the Nikasil can be reapplied/recoated, no? I have some wear on the inside of mine. (TTW sells reconditioned cylinders so it must be possible)

Obviously going to replace my pistons.. look at the state of them in the photos haha! Oversize pistons are definitely available - thetuningworks.co.uk.. they have 3 or 4 different sizes, they will sell u a 300cc kit too if u have cash.

will use anti corrosive coolant after rebuild for sure, thats a given lol have left cylinders at engineers they will get the water spigots out one way or another.

powervalves are a well known issue. mine look ok, and again thetuningworks sells modifications to solve the weak pin problem or sells a different style of powervalve altogether from Cougar racing products. $$$ tho.

Cheers for the post. keep riding those smokers.

hayd3n

7th April 2012, 17:48

Kickaha

7th April 2012, 18:01

Must be able to hone out the cylinders and recoat them though? surely one can recondition them - the Nikasil can be reapplied/recoated, no? I have some wear on the inside of mine. (TTW sells reconditioned cylinders so it must be possible).

You don't hone them, if they need replating you go see these guys nzcylinders.co.nz and fort out $600 odd per cylinder

eelracing

7th April 2012, 20:33

These water spigots are not cast in are they? anyone know?

Engineer shop recons they can't get them out and asked me if they were cast in and I said nah, cause on TTW they sell the little spigots..

Further to Gamma's post,apply heat then clamp the spigot in a vice.This will crush the spigot in the process (it's toast anyway) and hopefully weakening it's hold.Then by twisting the cylinder in a circular motion you may work it free.

Fast Eddie

7th April 2012, 21:03

You don't hone them, if they need replating you go see these guys nzcylinders.co.nz and fort out $600 odd per cylinder

f*ckn hell - The Tunings Works advertises brand new suzuki cylinders for 300 quid.. or a recond./replated one for 125 quid on an exchange with ur old cyl, and you get a new suzuki piston with it.

oh well see how I go later, one cylinder is ok, the one that I brought round to yours Kickaha with the groove in it should prob be repaired but yea.. thats costly at 600 bucks a cyl aye. would prob give the tuning works a go..

Fast Eddie

7th April 2012, 21:04

Further to Gamma's post,apply heat then clamp the spigot in a vice.This will crush the spigot in the process (it's toast anyway) and hopefully weakening it's hold.Then by twisting the cylinder in a circular motion you may work it free.

Cheers, yea I think someone, or you has already mentioned that in my other thread maybe - I told the engineers to do that. So hopefully they get the old ones out ok.

will press some new ones in later. got a bit of engine work to do on the old Aprilia

Kickaha

7th April 2012, 21:36

f*ckn hell - The Tunings Works advertises brand new suzuki cylinders for 300 quid.. or a recond./replated one for 125 quid on an exchange with ur old cyl, and you get a new suzuki piston with it.

Find out who does their replating or go new

Fast Eddie

7th April 2012, 23:32

Find out who does their replating or go new

yea good thinking, their website leads me to believe they do it themselves inhouse. But will ask first for sure, can't go wrong with new suzuki items eh.

Got a few other bits to work on first anyway. no rush

Fast Eddie

8th April 2012, 17:49

degreased the engine today. (and had the mrs on wheel paint removal and polishing haha she did well. They are close to a proper final polish and repainting centers)

Engine degreasing and cleaning took a fair bit of elbow grease. Wee bit more to go in some odd nooks and crannies but she is looking so much better than the scrap i pulled out of the frame.

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Fast Eddie

8th April 2012, 17:52

couple of photos looking down into crank. anyone shout out if anything looks amiss.

I rocked the crank back and forth and held the rods. no slack or free play that I can tell but I may not have the technique. Seems to be ok? not sure what I should be doing/looking for without pulling the thing apart further and measuring shit. Any tips sing out..

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ducatilover

8th April 2012, 18:13

That engine's looking shit hot bro

tigertim20

8th April 2012, 19:11

Fast Eddie

8th April 2012, 20:05

sure is, what did you use? just degreaser and a toothbrush?

Im not patient enough to fuck about getting stuff really really clean, I just get it to where its better than it was, get bored, and move on haha

yea bro, just Simple Green Max and some scouring pads and tooth brush and rags. shes pretty clean. couple spots to finish off then going to try put it all back together nicely.

Still waiting for cylinders though. I'll text you up tmoro, keep forgettin to return socket. I'll be leaving wheels off a for a while now so won't need it for a bit.

Fast Eddie

9th April 2012, 15:23

Carb disassemble and clean today, carb from bottom cylinder was clean inside (grubby outside), fuel and air jets clean and fuel intake sweet everything looking good apart from the choke which has a broken piece..

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However carb from top cylinder had what seems to be literally sand from like a beach, and lots of little pebbles/stones.. like the beach at lake taupo haha. all in the float bowl and clogging up the fuel intake completely (this makes sense when looking at top cyls crank which has some heat marks, the spark plug which looked like it was overheating and the piston.. which was cooked.

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Having a tricky time getting the sand thats all in the fuel intake pipe (which the fuel hose attaches to on the carb) out.. she's properly clogged I'm suprised any fuel was getting through at all when the bike was running.

Once finished cleaning out the top cyls carb will put it back together and get started on front fork strip/disassemble to send to anodizers.

Still waiting on those cylinders from engineers, they will be having an easter off ofcourse. Will pop in tomorrow and see if they are done yet.

Fast Eddie

9th April 2012, 18:32

ducatilover

9th April 2012, 20:35

p.s. as a side thought - who knows what is involved in enlarging a carb - could I just drill/bore this one out to 35mm up from 34mm and change the jets or is it a bit more complicated than that?

edit: found plenty of guides online.. dare I say it.. looks kind of easy as long as you can set it up to drill straight and that u don't bore it out bigger than the slide in it..

anyone whos done it before or knows about it sing out..

Dooooooooooooooooon't unless you are a machinist and can make a butterfly.
You'll want to basically polish the throat after boring it out, but you'll have to polish it within clearance for the butterfly and perfectly round.

Or we could make butteflies with little carbon seals on 'em :D

Fast Eddie

9th April 2012, 22:08

Dooooooooooooooooon't unless you are a machinist and can make a butterfly.
You'll want to basically polish the throat after boring it out, but you'll have to polish it within clearance for the butterfly and perfectly round.

Or we could make butteflies with little carbon seals on 'em :D

no butterflies on these flatslide mikunis.. just has the slide that goes up and down and from some minor reading you just make sure u dont machine it wider than the slide is.. but yea, its just one of those things I'll prob do later. you can just buy 35mm carbs for 350US dollars for set of 2.. with the exchange rate at the mo its pretty cheap..

ducatilover

9th April 2012, 22:17

no butterflies on these flatslide mikunis.. just has the slide that goes up and down and from some minor reading you just make sure u dont machine it wider than the slide is.. but yea, its just one of those things I'll prob do later. you can just buy 35mm carbs for 350US dollars for set of 2.. with the exchange rate at the mo its pretty cheap..

derp derp, my bad bro. In that case, DOOOOOOOO IIIIIIIIIT

Hmm I need a set of flatslides

Fast Eddie

9th April 2012, 22:37

ducatilover

9th April 2012, 22:43

More than I paid for a complete 600!!! Fuck that noise lol

Can't wait to see this motor done

tigertim20

10th April 2012, 17:59

hehe :) i guess you would be looking at about 700 for 4 of the suckers for your 4 banger. pleny avail online from keihin and mikuni :D

my engine n carbs are nice and clean now.. just waiting around for the cylinders from engineers then i can prep/paint and reassemble engine and do a few things to it along the way :D

heh the worst thing is waiting to get stuff from others so you can get on with it huh?
I got two packages today, one big box with gaskets and bearings and all sorts of shit. the other package I thought was my piston - I thought sweet, get the engine together today! - nup, its something for the R1 dammit!

Fast Eddie

10th April 2012, 18:12

heh the worst thing is waiting to get stuff from others so you can get on with it huh?
I got two packages today, one big box with gaskets and bearings and all sorts of shit. the other package I thought was my piston - I thought sweet, get the engine together today! - nup, its something for the R1 dammit!

hehe, i love packages arriving - you get your socket yea? your mrs answered the door in nothing but a bathrobe ;) I guess she knew I was coming around haha :innocent:

I went to see how my cylinders were doing.. Still sitting on the desk where I dropped them in like 3/4 weeks ago haha! damn it! I took them home again for now and see if I can't do it myself. I need to get the rusted out water spigots out.

Do you have blow torch and a decent bench vice by any chance tigertim?

didnt get anything done today.. neither fella from the anodizer outfits emailed back from last week so I guess I will call them again to check up on those quotes for my forks and triple clamps..

tigertim20

10th April 2012, 18:44

hehe, i love packages arriving - you get your socket yea? your mrs answered the door in nothing but a bathrobe ;) I guess she knew I was coming around haha :innocent:

I went to see how my cylinders were doing.. Still sitting on the desk where I dropped them in like 3/4 weeks ago haha! damn it! I took them home again for now and see if I can't do it myself. I need to get the rusted out water spigots out.

Do you have blow torch and a decent bench vice by any chance tigertim?

didnt get anything done today.. neither fella from the anodizer outfits emailed back from last week so I guess I will call them again to check up on those quotes for my forks and triple clamps..
nah, the missus will have been in the shower all day trying to wash off the shame of what i did to her last night . . .

gas torch, yup, DM has one, I doubt he will mind lending it out.

also, I have some reassembly grease, and other assorted greases here if you need it when you reassemble, I know its a pain to buy a whole tube when you only really use a tiny bit

Fast Eddie

10th April 2012, 18:48

nah, the missus will have been in the shower all day trying to wash off the shame of what i did to her last night . . .
:laugh: haha

good man, much appreciated. I have some stuff here from previous jobs some greases oils lubes sealents but murphies law you don't have what you need and have to go buy it haha so I'll be textin ya up :D

how about a vice on a bench? didnt notice one when I was around the other day haha.. might have to invest and mount one on my bench but I have a feeling they are dear as.. might have a google/trademe now

tigertim20

10th April 2012, 18:56

nah I dont have a vice sorry. theres a place called I think topmaq or something, they are right beside supercheap auto by the underpass, they sell stuff like that for a good price, pop in and see them, might be your best bet for a good price on a vice

Fast Eddie

10th April 2012, 19:13

gatch

10th April 2012, 19:14

p.s. as a side thought - who knows what is involved in enlarging a carb - could I just drill/bore this one out to 35mm up from 34mm and change the jets or is it a bit more complicated than that?

edit: found plenty of guides online.. dare I say it.. looks kind of easy as long as you can set it up to drill straight and that u don't bore it out bigger than the slide in it..

anyone whos done it before or knows about it sing out..

If you put a 35mm drill into your carbs, I will kill you and bury you in your own yard. No second chance.

Bored on a lathe or mill is the proper way to go.

Or better yet, just buy them other ones like you mentioned.

Fast Eddie

10th April 2012, 19:27

If you put a 35mm drill into your carbs, I will kill you and bury you in your own yard. No second chance.

Bored on a lathe or mill is the proper way to go.

Or better yet, just buy them other ones like you mentioned.

haha wasn't going to actually use a hand drill. a tuning manual says lathe or even drill press if you can guarantee straightness..

will weigh up the costs but prob easier to buy the Keihins for 350ish.. that comes later. need better expansion chambers and mufflers too. and got airbox mods to do and air filter upgrade.. the list just grows and grows as the bank depletes

Kickaha

10th April 2012, 19:30

If you put a 35mm drill into your carbs, I will kill you and bury you in your own yard.

I'd be quite willing to dig the hole for you

eelracing

11th April 2012, 02:05

will weigh up the costs but prob easier to buy the Keihins for 350ish.. that comes later. need better expansion chambers and mufflers too. and got airbox mods to do and air filter upgrade.. the list just grows and grows as the bank depletes

Tell me about it...have just got a re-nikasiled cylinder and a set of spanking Cougar PV's to install,but hard knocks (so to speak) have led me to err on the reliability side of the equation now.

I will be following your thread with interest and see how you get on ;).

But check these puppies out...

Fast Eddie

11th April 2012, 09:39

But check these puppies out...

oh yea those are sweet :Punk:, cylinder looks brand new :) and those powervalves are fuckn expensive eh? I can maybe afford to modify my existing ones by just getting the center blade with the fixed pin.. but dunno if I can afford 2 all new valves not at the price advertised on TTW anyway haha. (is that a new crank shaft as well to the left? lol bastard)

yea I'm having a week or so off the build now, heading up to chch for my and the mrs birthday this weekend and then got a uni exam next week and racing the following weekend after.. back into in a couple weeks.

looking at how clean the inside of those cyls are, rebuilt or not I need to figure a way to decarbon and clean up the inside of mine without damaging anything..

Fast Eddie

17th April 2012, 13:49

Right - SITREP,

Mrs bought me a sweet dartboard for my birthday last sun, which promptly went up in the shed and very little work has been done on the bike since then haha..

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But I did finally get 1 quote back from the Anodizing firm in Tokoroa..

It costs 60 bucks per fork tube, so 120 to do both my fork tubes in gold, including some prep work (he did mention if it needed any major prep the price may go up a bit but my forks look pretty clean)

and its 50 bucks per triple clamp, so 100 for the 2 triple clamps.

I am happy with that, and since the other 2 places I asked for quotes havent got back to me I think I will go ahead and send them up to Tok.. plus they have done bike parts before so are confident doing it.

Will do that in a week or two, ordered a couple of engine bits off TTW, see how long they take to arrive they were sent yesterday. Should get a bit of progress done in the next couple of weeks. Engine/cyls and heads are nice and clean externally, I now want to decarbon/clean the inside of the exhaust ports etc, inside of cyls/mating surfaces and even interested if I can do anything to my stock exhaust to improve flow? cant afford aftermarket shit at the mo.

So if anyone has tips/tricks on how to clean the internal parts, the exhaust port and mounting surfaces between exhaust and cylinder etc.. all that super hard carbon/black build up u get on a really old bike haha. And also just generally clean up all the internal surfaces of the engine without damaging/altering anything crucial..

tigertim20

17th April 2012, 18:36

nice one, please hold into the details for the anodizing place.

Might pay to throw up a thread about it, Ive seen several others be interested in getting bike stuff done recently, and you might even try your luck at a better price if you do a group buy on getting the work done - worth a shot.
Take some close up pics before and after as well - Id be keen to see (guess I could swing by and look though)

as for cleaning, depends what exactly you are cleaning. Start off with a Kero bath, soak the shit for a while, scrub, rinse and repeat a couple times, and see where you are at after that.
Hayd3n on here had a gearbox rebuild done a few years ago on a YZF600, the mechanic said he had to use about 8 different chemicals to clean off the sight glass on the engine casing, so you could be in for a fair bit of work if you really wanna go the whole hog

gatch

17th April 2012, 19:26

057rxz

17th April 2012, 19:33

good shit bro!!! respect for keeping the 2t alive...

Fast Eddie

17th April 2012, 19:54

as for cleaning, depends what exactly you are cleaning. Start off with a Kero bath, soak the shit for a while, scrub, rinse and repeat a couple times, and see where you are at after that.

yea will give it a go. Am just really cleaning the cylinders and power valves eh. basically the exhaust system, from exhaust port out of cylinder/combustion chamber, through the port, the power valves, to the exhaust opening and I want to even clean up the exhausts as well.. wondered if I could just fill them with something let it soak then tip it out a few times or if I would have to cut them in half, clean then weld back together..

If its safe I guess I could just fill a tub with kero and leave the cylinders and exhaust valves sitting in there for hours? any one have any reason not to do this? might eat or destroy something?

Fast Eddie

17th April 2012, 19:55

good shit bro!!! respect for keeping the 2t alive...

haha, Churr bro :)

hopefully be done by end of winter and then will be looking for another to build.. quite like the TZ/TZR250's or maybe anything bigger.. shit an 400/500cc road 2 stroker would be a mint project.. haha dreams eh?

gatch

17th April 2012, 20:10

yea will give it a go. Am just really cleaning the cylinders and power valves eh. basically the exhaust system, from exhaust port out of cylinder/combustion chamber, through the port, the power valves, to the exhaust opening and I want to even clean up the exhausts as well.. wondered if I could just fill them with something let it soak then tip it out a few times or if I would have to cut them in half, clean then weld back together..

If its safe I guess I could just fill a tub with kero and leave the cylinders and exhaust valves sitting in there for hours? any one have any reason not to do this? might eat or destroy something?

Plug the end of the exhaust up and fill it with petrol ? Or kero. Or something. Mmmm, something.

Geeen

17th April 2012, 21:44

Jealous!! I wish I had a shed and bike like that to keep me away from KB

tigertim20

17th April 2012, 22:13

its an engine, it has petrol exploding and shit inside it, kero isnt going to fuck it, and youll be replacing gaskets etc anyways.

hayd3n

17th April 2012, 22:38

A new sight glass would be easier ??

not for the price

gatch

17th April 2012, 22:56

not for the price

Get a piece of glass cut ? A piece of polycarbonate ? A glass out of another bike from the wreckers ?

More than one way to skin a cat..

Fast Eddie

18th April 2012, 09:46

Plug the end of the exhaust up and fill it with petrol ? Or kero. Or something. Mmmm, something.

yep - will give it a go and report back.. I guess I will need to scrub too - wishful thinking that it will just soak and fall off haha..

Fast Eddie

18th April 2012, 09:47

its an engine, it has petrol exploding and shit inside it, kero isnt going to fuck it, and youll be replacing gaskets etc anyways.

yea too true, and yea no more gaskets left I've disassembled everything and have a full set of gaskets for entire engine. She will be a tight at the end :D

Fast Eddie

25th April 2012, 16:30

behold!

cleaned cylinders and managed to get stuck screws out with lots of heat and impact driver. Flagged taking them back to the engineers since they had the cyls for like 3/4 weeks and did nothing with them so I just took em home and got the bits out I needed to. Still have to get the water spigots out but have found some cheap bench vices will grab one then give it a go.

cleaned both cyls up in prep for the final work to be done on them and then reassembly heres a before/after comparison photo:

262593

Fast Eddie

25th April 2012, 16:35

put bits all back together. still got a fair bit of scrubbing to go to get into all the final little bits, gonna replace all the hardware to nice new chrome items - stuck it together just to see what we are looking like/deciding whether to do the heads black or leave unpainted. deciding on red or unpainted for cylinders and engine sidecovers, a gun metal grey color I was thinking, or red or black..

here she is at the mo unpainted but with some little detailing ;)

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Kickaha

25th April 2012, 16:42

deciding on red or unpainted for cylinders and engine sidecovers, a gun metal grey color I was thinking, or red or black..

Red? you're gay enough to own a Honda, oh thats right I forgot you already do

repeat after me, Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Bl ack,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Blac k,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black, Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Bl ack,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Blac k,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black, Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black,Bl ack,Black,Black,Black,Black,Black

Fast Eddie

25th April 2012, 16:46

tigertim20

25th April 2012, 17:28

haha yea..

black cyl heads, red NGK spark plug caps, chrome hardware and gunmetal grey sidecovers.. crankcases/cyls can stay unpainted I recon.. It will show the oil up easier when it starts leaking or failing ;)

you missed out on a good ride today - a new dude turned up on a blade that looks to be the same as yours

Fast Eddie

25th April 2012, 18:12

Fast Eddie

25th April 2012, 18:43

oh also, whats the best method to clean up the mating surfaces between gaskets? a fella told me get a sheet of glass and just use emery paper (tape the emery paper down to the glass and rub the surface over it)? does it come in diff grades of coarseness

google is too far away..

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ducatilover

25th April 2012, 18:45

I use razor blades and pussy juice.

tigertim20

25th April 2012, 18:49

chur was sanding down the seat cowl i had for the blade, got some color matched paint yesterday so i can finally take the pillion seat and foot pegs off and have it single seater. and some sanding of windows still, long job repainting these window frames,

yea is that dude with the blade user name S&S on KB? pretty sure he left a few messages on my profile page thing saying what up.
yep thats him, he is on southernrider now too - nice bloke.

oh also, whats the best method to clean up the mating surfaces between gaskets? a fella told me get a sheet of glass and just use emery paper (tape the emery paper down to the glass and rub the surface over it)? does it come in diff grades of coarseness

google is too far away..

I just use a sharp blade, like out of a razor, or a new box cutter blade. just take care because a sharp blade can and will take a gouge out of an ally casing

Fast Eddie

25th April 2012, 19:04

chur, I didn't mean getting the old gasket off tho? sounds like thats what u guys would use a razor blade for.

I meant prepping the metal surfaces to make sure they are smooth and perfectly flat - Rubbing it along a sheet of glass with some abrasive between it should achieve that. See if i can find someone to sell me some tmoro in town.

as for getting the old gasket off I use a plastic scraper and some solvent.. comes off easy as, but u still need to give the metal surfaces a smooth down and make sure they are as flat as poss.

tigertim20

25th April 2012, 19:54

just make sure its clean. wipe it with petrol or kero
if it was perfectly flat you wouldnt need a gasket on a side cover

Fast Eddie

25th April 2012, 19:57

lol meh, I'v got time and glass is cheap

SVboy

26th April 2012, 15:05

Come on Fast Eddie, extend that student loan, buy some new bits and make this thing angry again! All this "what colour shall I paint......" leaves me feeling hollow and unsatisfied inside!!

Fast Eddie

26th April 2012, 15:39

haha I'm feeling the same way bro.. I actually don't need anything more for the engine except to get the old water spigots out.

iv got the new pistons and gasket kits ready to go in the shed.

then its just new clip ons for the handle bars and then the rest is just paint n shit and reassembly.. keep watching this space

I should have taken more before shots of the bike and engine tho.. believe me it took many hours just getting the engine exterior cleaned up, i still have to clean the exhaust valves and I wanted to smooth the cyl ports a bit.. although might be a gamble with my IQ

tigertim20

26th April 2012, 17:17

hayd3n

26th April 2012, 17:28

hayd3n

26th April 2012, 17:30

you missed out on a good ride today - a new dude turned up on a blade that looks to be the same as yours

well i did txt him

Fast Eddie

26th April 2012, 17:35

I jsut bought another one today,

lol what did you buy?

tigertim20

26th April 2012, 18:06

lol what did you buy?

a raggedy piece of shit that doesnt go.
but it was cheap.
its a 4t this time - dirt bike

eelracing

27th April 2012, 00:59

Question for Eddie or Tim...does your Italian RS manuals state what the Nitrogen pressure should be for the rear shocks remote reservior?

If so,how much should it be?

Cheers.

Ollie.T

27th April 2012, 08:49

Manual states:

"The shock absorber can be neither recharged nor repaired. If it breaks or is rundown, it must be replaced with a new one complete with tank.

WARNING:
-Do not force or try to open the shock absorber and tank"

Best person to ask would be Robert Taylor from Kiwi Suspension Solutions, chances are though, all he could do to it is replace the spring or supply a new shock.

Fast Eddie

27th April 2012, 13:07

I don't think Tim has an RS ;)

haha, yea manual states "The shock absorber can be neither recharged nor repaired, If it breaks or is rundown, it must be replaced with a new one complete with tank"

Tank being remote reservoir I assume..

chur, however. I emailed that kiwi suspension specialist or CKT I dunno what they call themselves these days, and he recon'd he could rebuild the suspension. dunno if his rear suspension upgrades included rebuilding the stock item or just replacing the shock all together.. but it was going to cost around the 2.5k mark for front and rear upgrades.

anyway, manual says no can do on recharge..

eelracing

10th May 2012, 20:35

I don't think Tim has an RS ;)

haha, yea manual states "The shock absorber can be neither recharged nor repaired, If it breaks or is rundown, it must be replaced with a new one complete with tank"

anyway, manual says no can do on recharge..

My apologies,I meant OllieT

Yours and Ollies manual should be taken with a pinch of salt and a little less pasta.

Anyway whats been going on it's been a little quiet of late?Do you two need some inspiration?kick up the rear?..i'm hoping to have her all together and run in by sunday.

Fast Eddie

10th May 2012, 21:41

haha, bloody italian manuals eh.

do you recon the rear shock is rebuildable?

Nah I'v been tinkering away slowly, I bought a racing sidecar to race club level so I've been too broke to buy the last things I need before reassembly/run in..

shes ready for it though, got most of the bits, pistons gaskets etc.. everythings been cleaned and tidied up. Still need to buy 2 new clip ons, old ones are bent n shit. some new hardware to replace rusted/broken shit. and still need the 2 water spigots to replace rusted out ones in cylinder.

yours is looking miiint! I got 4 weeks left to pay off the sidecar then should be back into it and done in a few weeks from then. lets call it a month im hoping to be smelling 2 stroke in the shed.

eelracing

13th May 2012, 21:48

haha, bloody italian manuals eh.

do you recon the rear shock is rebuildable?

Definately and don't let anyone try to convince you otherwise.

I bought a racing sidecar to race club level so I've been too broke to buy the last things I need before reassembly/run in..

Haha if your racing then better get used to it.

lets call it a month im hoping to be smelling 2 stroke in the shed.

Good man...........

Fast Eddie

29th May 2012, 19:43

finally. at the end of paying off my new sidecar for racing so the cash flow should improve! have ordered some new water spigots finally from TTW and some screws and and bits and pieces for the powervalves.

Its nearing reassembly time.

any quick suggestions for oils and greases, lubes and maybe even loctites to use and where during reassembly? mainly to make conversation but I might listen to yas too haha

everythings ready to go, new pistons look good, cylinders and ports are as clean as I will get them, have been working on the cylinder ports a little bit with emery paper and abrasives.. was hard to make progress so hopefully i wasn't too messy. but I don't know much yet its a big learning curve and im following a 2 stroke tuning manual thing.. I havent taken much meat off but just smoothed the edges a but here and there.

everythings looking pretty clean, power valves are still soaking to try and get the last of the carbon build up off the tips. its proving tough, someone suggested oven cleaner? might try that next as steel-os and kero don't seem to cut it.

264248

anyway still got to trim up the gaskets and make sure everything fits and doesnt overlap or block any ports or openings etc.. and theeeeen going to give the whole squish clearance thing a go.. fingers crossed eh.

oh I did want to know if its ok to just take the clutch cover off, paint it, then put it back on. or will I have to do a bit of disassembly n shit. I always seem to be taking the stator covers off but havent done clutch yet.

I had another question but can't remember now... I'll be back..

eelracing

30th May 2012, 08:36

Whatever 2 stroke oil you are using will be fine and a dab of grease will help to hold the thrust washers in place when connecting piston.Also a light threadlocker is fine on the PV bolts and actuating arm/wheel bracket bolts as I have lost one of those suckers before.[/COLOR]

everythings looking pretty clean, power valves are still soaking to try and get the last of the carbon build up off the tips. its proving tough, someone suggested oven cleaner? might try that next as steel-os and kero don't seem to cut it.

If it's hard-baked on I just scraped it off with a blunt screwdriver and finished with a fine grit sandpaper.

and theeeeen going to give the whole squish clearance thing a go.. fingers crossed eh.

More info needed eddie as all you may require is the SP head gaskets and it could save you a hell of a lot of grief.

oh I did want to know if its ok to just take the clutch cover off, paint it, then put it back on. or will I have to do a bit of disassembly n shit.

No disassembly but you might dislodge the kickstart mechanism from its recess but it's fairly straightforward putting it back in place.

Fast Eddie

30th May 2012, 16:32

Hey Eel - cheers bro.

Sweet will follow those tips hadn't picked out a brand of 2 stroke oil yet.. will do some reading I guess and I have a selection of greases already they should be ok and a bit of threadlocker :)

Did you want more info on the squish clearance? in what way? (I have no idea what the squish is atm on my engine) I'm guessing I have to wait until I have assembled it and then check the squish clearance it has with the gaskets I have already bought.. and then go from there by using a thinner and thinner base gasket? to reduce the clearance. I have a book here somewhere on 2 stroke tuning was just readin that really.

Sweet as about removing clutch cover :) will give it a go, I wondered about the clutch arm that sticks up out of the top of the case.. wondered if that had to come out first or something.. im sure I'll see when I give it a go haha!.

thanks man!

Fast Eddie

31st May 2012, 15:28

Slowly getting back into it, starting to reassemble engine. have smoothed out the ports and cleaned up everything pretty nicely.

Just mucked about with the new pistons today, they were about .5 grams different from each other so I shaved a little bit off til they were both 136.5 grams on the dot. close as I will get them to each other in the old shed eh!

Noticed that my new pistons are only 136 grams while the old ones that came out of the engine were 146 grams plus there were missing a considerable portion of their skirting.. so they were prob more like 150grams or more.
figured thats a pretty big diff, 150 - 136... all the more reason to take it past red line now eh ;) haha

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out with the old in with the new.. next is putting the new water spigots into the cylinders.. Do these have to be taken somewhere to press in or am I ok to use a soft face hammer? obv can't push them in far enough at the moment..

then will trim the gaskets a bit so they don't overlap obstruct any of the air/fuel/gas flow, which they do at the moment.. - then its just setting the squish clearance then engine will be finished and ready to go back into the frame.

then its front forks (which I'm confused on how to disassemble..) i've only done normal forks from my blade and old ninja.. have not done USD yet and certainly not strange ones like aprilia were the 2 front forks are completely diff from each other.. again italian manual sucks. anyway once they are apart they are off to be anodized gold.

theeen its just buy some new clip ons as the old ones are shite, obv broken before then rewelded n shit.. crap stuff so new ones it is.. then I'm fairly sure thats it! will be firing her up soon.

gotta finish polishing the wheels and I think one of the exhaust pipes may need a repair where it bolts onto the cyl head, one is loose and the other one is not so guessing it should be tacked/welded solid (the actual mount/collar that u bolt on the cyl head studs.)

gettin there. removing carbon from the exhaust port and powervalves has been a mission! power valves are fully decarboned now but I dunno how to get the shit out of the exhaust ports aye.. they have soaked for weeks in kerosene and still won't come off with steelos n shit - always open to other tips n tricks.

eelracing

4th June 2012, 03:04

Noticed that my new pistons are only 136 grams while the old ones that came out of the engine were 146 grams plus there were missing a considerable portion of their skirting.. so they were prob more like 150grams or more.
figured thats a pretty big diff, 150 - 136... all the more reason to take it past red line now eh ;) haha

There's an interesting thread on the UK RGV website covering the diff piston makers and weights,worth a gander.

out with the old in with the new.. next is putting the new water spigots into the cylinders.. Do these have to be taken somewhere to press in or am I ok to use a soft face hammer? obv can't push them in far enough at the moment..

They should just push in and a light tapping with a rubber mallet/block of wood.If still having trouble try freezing spigot and then a light oiling should see her home.

I think one of the exhaust pipes may need a repair where it bolts onto the cyl head, one is loose and the other one is not so guessing it should be tacked/welded solid (the actual mount/collar that u bolt on the cyl head studs.)

This doesnt sound right at all are you sure your not missing one of the exhaust gaskets?If it's any thing like the std RGV there should be a couple for each cylinder.

but I dunno how to get the shit out of the exhaust ports aye.. they have soaked for weeks in kerosene and still won't come off with steelos n shit - always open to other tips n tricks.

If it's caked on then scrape that shit out with a blunt instrument and a liberal dose of elbow grease.

tigertim20

4th June 2012, 18:03

out with the old in with the new.. next is putting the new water spigots into the cylinders.. Do these have to be taken somewhere to press in or am I ok to use a soft face hammer? obv can't push them in far enough at the moment..

.

cant you sweat them in? freeze spigots, heat area with torch, then a (rubber?) hammer and a bit of wood should see you right

theflyingkiwi

7th June 2012, 18:53

Hi, does any one know someone selling race parts for a rgv/rs got my kit pipes about to gets some race valves and other bits n pieces from TTW, really want a close ratio box and dry clutch. thanks

Fast Eddie

7th June 2012, 19:57

Hi, does any one know someone selling race parts for a rgv/rs got my kit pipes about to gets some race valves and other bits n pieces from TTW, really want a close ratio box and dry clutch. thanks

no idea bro, someone might come along that knows..

I would say give Sean an email at TTW, he's been very helpful with my bike and getting random bits for it - he has access to a lot more than whats on the TTW website, he can probably source the box and clutch from the sp models or whatever had them.. maybe the whole engine unit. overseas shipping probably dear tho.

good luck, might be harder to find local.. if there are any that float through here I might snap it up.. why not eh.

Fast Eddie

7th June 2012, 20:02

If it's caked on then scrape that shit out with a blunt instrument and a liberal dose of elbow grease.

haha, cheers bro - got to study for exams then on holiday, should finish up the aprilia next week and fire it up (I hope)

will give the exhaust port decarboning another go, I'm worried about gouging the metal eh.. but can definitely scrape it with bluntish tools or bits and pieces I find lying around.. fine line between blunt and not getting ef all off and too sharp and making a mess.

chur chur, can't wait to fire it up.. still think exhaust needs a weld - will try get a photo later.. its like the collar that bolts onto the cyl head around the start of the expansion chamber, one is fixed in place/doesn't move the other one does move so I think its broken its weld or whatever was holding it on. probably doesnt make sense i'll take photos or something.

theflyingkiwi

7th June 2012, 20:10

imdying

8th June 2012, 09:49

zx636 forks done by KSSHey man, what have you done for springs? I've a set of Tyga triples for mine, but haven't pulled the pin on 636 forks yet till I figure that out... at around 85-90kg in gear I think I'll need something different from standard for sure... :(

Fast Eddie

8th June 2012, 10:22

yea might do its for my rgv race bike, just got a gsxr600 shock and zx636 forks done by KSS, getting spacers for the forks done now, iv got the hole zeeltronic ingnition doing a rebuild now gona get heads, valves with kit pipes should hopfully make 70hp so it should be competive.

awesome.. doesnt seem to be many running down here in the south island.. think there are 3 125gp bikes still running and maybe an rgv..

I'd like to track mine after I'v ridden it on the road a few times.

nice suspension upgrades bro.. get some pics up later?

I'v seen those zeeltronic ignitions and some nice heads and valves that I'd like haha - TTW offers it as a package for some thousand odd quid, think u get the ignition, maybe a hand programmer, heads and powervalves. you must have spent a small f*cking fortune on your bike?!?!

I'm looking for expansion chambers/mufflers which will prob be all I buy for it for now apart from new clip ons - suggestions? mainly leaning toward some mild steel cheapest tyga pipes? can't find any 'kit' pipes like Lomas avail..

Asher

8th June 2012, 12:43

If the lams kills the resale price of my bike i will probably turn it into a race bike when i move onto something bigger

theflyingkiwi

8th June 2012, 21:01

yea man a bit to much i think owell, the bike came with the zeel unit so just gotta get me some heads and valves from TTW once i sell my other RGV which is on trademe, but i might get some vhm heads from race supplies proberly cheaper with freight and excange cost etc.

well with my zx636 forks i sent it to KSS with my weight details 70-75kg and he fitted them with race tech parts i think, getting the spacers made up now which the details are on the RGV forum so cant wait to test the out hopefully its worth the $$$ but i will also get a after market radial master cylinder to go with the bigger brakes, then would like to get some tyga fairings to make it look abit more modern with the forks, but this is my race bike aswell as my project bike. but im hoping that it will increase in value or ill have to sell the parts off when it comes to that stage but dont think il do that anytime soon. :)

ill try and post pics once the forks are done hopefully in the next few weeks.

theflyingkiwi

8th June 2012, 21:04

i also have some renthal clip ons which i picked up cheap on trade me.

the bike came with tyga pipes on it but i picked up some 'kit' pipes and 22d50 'kit' SAPC on trademe a while ago.

Fast Eddie

9th June 2012, 09:51

i also have some renthal clip ons which i picked up cheap on trade me.

the bike came with tyga pipes on it but i picked up some 'kit' pipes and 22d50 'kit' SAPC on trademe a while ago.

your bikes sounds mint, I'll get there with the aprilia slowly - your lucky to pick up the Kit parts locally! pipes and sapc would be mint :) expensive as to buy from the UK for now.

what did you do with your tyga pipes? not still around are they? :D

yours isnt that race RGV, black n white I think, that was on trademe for quite a while? end of last year. was a pure track bike by then but someone had put some time and effort into it.. was fairly cheap too.

look forward to some photos

theflyingkiwi

9th June 2012, 11:14

imdying

9th June 2012, 12:28

getting the spacers made up now which the details are on the RGV forum so cant wait to test the out hopefully its worth the $$$Any chance they could make a second set? I'll take a set right now if I can, as I want to go that route too. Did you go for the 05-06 forks, or the 07-08?

Sean at TTW is very reliable, and his prices are pretty reasonable. I got my Zeel setup from him, and a whole heap of other things. I'm still running the factory fairing, but I've had to hack it up quite a lot to suit the ram air and the Tyga pipes. The tail I'll ditch for a one piece replica, and that'll let cut it in half GP styles and access the electrics in the tail.

Fast Eddie

9th June 2012, 16:34

yea thats my bike, well lets just say it wasnt that good, im not gonna go into it but yea, the tyga pipes im gonna keep as spares scince im gona be racing it and pipes are a pain in the butt to get.

have you got stuff of TTW before? how long does it take to get some stuff to nz?

thats kind of good to hear (that it wasnt that good) haha! :D cause I was about || this close to buying that RGV except all of a sudden a road reg RS250 with fresh wof n reg popped up for about the same price so I grabbed that instead.

yea pipes are a pain to get - I was pretty much just going to order some mild steel tyga pipes but I dunno if they are actually any good.. what I really want is the Lomas pipes or the kit spec pipes that the manual refers too.. no idea how to get my hands on it tho.

yep ordered heaps from TTW, less than a week to arrive, last order I did was prob a month ago now, think I ordered on a Friday arvo and it was with me before the end of the following week, a wed or thurs or something.

if there are any delays it will be the postal services not TTW :)

(oh if u ever need a little cash for racing and want to unload your tyga pipes I'd be keen to buy them eh, PM me ;) they are the mild steel ones I was planning to buy anyway from memory. could even give you the original RGV (vj engine) expansion chambers and mufflers that came off my RS as a part trade or something so u still have some spare pipes.. altho the stock ones are shiiit thats why I want to swap em out for something a bit better)

Kickaha

9th June 2012, 16:38

yea pipes are a pain to get - I was pretty much just going to order some mild steel tyga pipes but I dunno if they are actually any good.. what I really want is the Lomas pipes or the kit spec pipes that the manual refers too.. no idea how to get my hands on it tho.
I thought you'd just get Graeme to make you some up

Fast Eddie

9th June 2012, 16:41

but I've had to hack it up quite a lot to suit the ram air and the Tyga pipes. The tail I'll ditch for a one piece replica, and that'll let cut it in half GP styles and access the electrics in the tail.

any photos of your ram air setup? i think i've seen it in the kit manual or online as well, was gonna give it a go if it wasnt just for show.

which way do you cut the one piece tail? length ways? not just find an easy way to take the tail on and off as one piece.. I was thinking of doing a one piece tail as well in a diff shape and just have the lights and indicators as part of the tail section so u would just undo say 2 or 3 fastners and then slide the tail backward off the subframe, then when slid off sufficiently to reach in, I'd have all the wire connections on little plugs that can be unplugged and plugged in easy and quickly.

not that I need to worry bout that until bike is back together and running - was going to do a similar thing to the blade too, pisses me off that the brake light and indicators on both bikes are hard wired in and u gotta cut the wires to disconnect (or leave them hanging there as u try to disassemble or work on stuff.

Fast Eddie

9th June 2012, 16:42

I thought you'd just get Graeme to make you some up

haha, I did ask him actually.. he said he can make good 2 stroke exhausts I just wasn't sure if I believed him... that and his prices are fairly up there!

imdying

9th June 2012, 19:15

any photos of your ram air setup? i think i've seen it in the kit manual or online as well, was gonna give it a go if it wasnt just for show.Haven't taken any pictures of it, but it's basically a box that sits against the inlet rubbers and seals to the tank. I'm pretty sure if you search the rgv forum you'll find some stuff by a guy down your way who built something similar... he is/was a racer, maybe he has a spare he'd flog?

which way do you cut the one piece tail? length ways? not just find an easy way to take the tail on and off as one piece.. I was thinking of doing a one piece tail as well in a diff shape and just have the lights and indicators as part of the tail section so u would just undo say 2 or 3 fastners and then slide the tail backward off the subframe, then when slid off sufficiently to reach in, I'd have all the wire connections on little plugs that can be unplugged and plugged in easy and quickly.

not that I need to worry bout that until bike is back together and running - was going to do a similar thing to the blade too, pisses me off that the brake light and indicators on both bikes are hard wired in and u gotta cut the wires to disconnect (or leave them hanging there as u try to disassemble or work on stuff.Probably chop it just after the riders seat finishes and lift the whole rear section off, basically just like they did with the GP bikes back in the day, except it'll be housing a tail light. That's just a single 3 pin connector to disassemble. I'm not in a hurry though, I'm enjoying making bits n pieces for it. http://justfairings.co.nz/other-products/race-tailsections/ Heaps of tails there... I like the rgv shape so I'll probably stick with it.

Fast Eddie

9th June 2012, 20:28

Haven't taken any pictures of it, but it's basically a box that sits against the inlet rubbers and seals to the tank. I'm pretty sure if you search the rgv forum you'll find some stuff by a guy down your way who built something similar... he is/was a racer, maybe he has a spare he'd flog?

Probably chop it just after the riders seat finishes and lift the whole rear section off, basically just like they did with the GP bikes back in the day, except it'll be housing a tail light. That's just a single 3 pin connector to disassemble. I'm not in a hurry though, I'm enjoying making bits n pieces for it. http://justfairings.co.nz/other-products/race-tailsections/ Heaps of tails there... I like the rgv shape so I'll probably stick with it.

nice nice, is this the rgv uk forum? will have a gander im a member on there. I have seen photos/setups I think i even have some on my computer of doing the ram air.. looked good and fairly easy :) to buy one would be even easier hehe.

yea, the rear tail setup sounds like what I meant/want.. just slide off the tail and unplug the lights that are attached for easy access + that solo/single seat look. those tails on justfairings look mint - rgv tail suits the rgv easy - i like thev 125gp style for the RS.. i think its curvy enough standard that a gp tail shouldnt look out of place.. but actually heaps of cool tails on there - and a cbr900 tail for my other bike is there and cheap - perfect! hehe

imdying

11th June 2012, 12:15

nice nice, is this the rgv uk forum? will have a gander im a member on there. I have seen photos/setups I think i even have some on my computer of doing the ram air.. looked good and fairly easy :) to buy one would be even easier hehe.

yea, the rear tail setup sounds like what I meant/want.. just slide off the tail and unplug the lights that are attached for easy access + that solo/single seat look. those tails on justfairings look mint - rgv tail suits the rgv easy - i like thev 125gp style for the RS.. i think its curvy enough standard that a gp tail shouldnt look out of place.. but actually heaps of cool tails on there - and a cbr900 tail for my other bike is there and cheap - perfect! hehe

Yeah on the UK site. It's pretty basic compared to mine, but you probably don't want the trouble of building a pressurised box with the carbs inside etc etc :blink:

<img src="http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/14088factory/yzr500_2.jpg" />
Like that... it'll give me good access to the logger etc in the tail, and I don't have an ignition key, so it's one way to lose the rear seat keylock.

ducatilover

11th June 2012, 13:27

Wouldn't ram air be as "simple" as having the bowl vents under the same pressure as the airbox and a small fuel pump? (apart from tuning volumes and lengths etc)

Asher

11th June 2012, 14:15

Fast Eddie

11th June 2012, 14:16

Wouldn't ram air be as "simple" as having the bowl vents under the same pressure as the airbox and a small fuel pump? (apart from tuning volumes and lengths etc)

.. I think I'll let someone else answer that one.. I'm usually the one answering all the hard stuff so ya know, give someone else a turn n all that..

when are you slapping a turbo on ur bike DL? you know I had a 550cc honda turbo?, made a suck thru with a subary legacy turbo, the smaller one off a twin turb.
it ran well when the boost was on, gave my old zxr750h1 a run for its money a couple of times. was a bit funny spooling up but never misfired or anything just that sort of lag u get with bad fueling and the back pressure/spooling up the turbo. but once it was on boost and you kept it up there it went mint (for about 600kms then oil pressure disappeared during a boost and by the time I got home the engine was done with oil pissing out everywhere..

sounded mean with no muffler and a turbo sitting by your knee...

they used to make kits for the cbr900rr, buy and bolt on, intercooled turbo haha.. they stopped production though :'( makes it fuel injected turbo and a claimed 350+hp

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/cbr900.htm

still can be done, just not as lazily now.. maybe one day - when i buy an original 92 blade to keep standard I can start fuckn with the second gen one..

and when i finish the aprilia.. and the windows around the house... and the picnic table.. and painting the doors and so on and so on.. walk the dog, do the dishes

Fast Eddie

11th June 2012, 14:19

^^^ Sounds about right to be.

Spotted this on ebay, if your interested in some unhealthy inspiration, its possibly my dream bike.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-RG500-Gamma-Rolling-Chassis-Performance-Fabrications-/270987305945?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item3f181a23d9&clk_rvr_id=352257337190

264856

264857

yea the underlying idea is mint.. I don't quite like the body shape/fairings or the overall way its presented but thats just me. I'd still own it and love it haha - I'd love a 500cc 2 stroke motor, they sell em, Kickaha hit me a link at somepoint.. no price listed tho so im sure it would be dear.. would be cool in almost any frame tho - one day i might be in the position to make a replica 500gp bike :) one day..

i wonder whats in his NOS looking tank on the tail, several times I'v almost hit buy now on the ebay kits for bikes.. for about a grand u get a 1.5 or 2lb bottle, all the solenoids and jets and injectors or whatever u need for a 4cyl carburetted engine and u just diy and bang!

also.. one day..

Asher

11th June 2012, 14:27

i wonder whats in his NOS looking tank on the tail, several times I'v almost hit buy now on the ebay kits for bikes.. for about a grand u get a 1.5 or 2lb bottle, all the solenoids and jets and injectors or whatever u need for a 4cyl carburetted engine and u just diy and bang!

also.. one day..

Water injection me thinks.

ducatilover

11th June 2012, 15:18

.. I think I'll let someone else answer that one.. I'm usually the one answering all the hard stuff so ya know, give someone else a turn n all that..
Fair enough mate :bleh:

when are you slapping a turbo on ur bike DL? you know I had a 550cc honda turbo?, made a suck thru with a subary legacy turbo, the smaller one off a twin turb.
it ran well when the boost was on, gave my old zxr750h1 a run for its money a couple of times. was a bit funny spooling up but never misfired or anything just that sort of lag u get with bad fueling and the back pressure/spooling up the turbo. but once it was on boost and you kept it up there it went mint (for about 600kms then oil pressure disappeared during a boost and by the time I got home the engine was done with oil pissing out everywhere..
When did that come on boost? They use something like a VJ1 don't they? The turbo I had sourced was still on a car, and it went pop :no: So I'm back to hunting for one, I'm not in a rush though

I imagine it'll be a bit of fun :D
I'm wanting 130-140hp at the tread on around 7psi, depending on turbo size

Fast Eddie

11th June 2012, 16:17

When did that come on boost?
I imagine it'll be a bit of fun :D
I'm wanting 130-140hp at the tread on around 7psi, depending on turbo size

I think it was about 5,000ish you could hear it spooling up and it started proper pulling like 7 or 8-10k rpm, below that it actually felt like a normal bike, was loud and lumpy but didnt like jerk around or misfire, was just down on power/laggy until the turbo started going.. im sure it could have been tuned up and made to run better with some knowledge and shit haha

hehe, nice 130-140hp on the floor is a nice amount of hp - what does the motor make factory? zzr600 eh? from my experience the old stock motor will probably want better bearings or a beefed up lube/oil system and cooling system :D

264863264862

ducatilover

11th June 2012, 16:32

Fuck that's cool!
One of those would come on boost a bit quicker on the 600 and I can have shorer tune length headers because I just have enough room :yes:

The ZZR makes around 100hp at the crank, mine would hopefully be a bit more currently.
It'll handle low boost if I get the bowl vents hooked up right and have a nice AFR :woohoo:
I can also advance/retard timing by 5-6 degrees either way :D

tigertim20

11th June 2012, 17:10

Fair enough mate :bleh:

When did that come on boost? They use something like a VJ1 don't they? The turbo I had sourced was still on a car, and it went pop :no: So I'm back to hunting for one, I'm not in a rush though

I imagine it'll be a bit of fun :D
I'm wanting 130-140hp at the tread on around 7psi, depending on turbo size

what did you have lined up?
few years back i had a turbo off a toyota starlet ready just sort of ran out of money and motivation and it never really happened

ducatilover

11th June 2012, 18:46

what did you have lined up?
few years back i had a turbo off a toyota starlet ready just sort of ran out of money and motivation and it never really happened
It was an IHI RHB5 on a Mzda B6T.
I'm thinking a CT12a (Toyota 1JZGTTE) or CT9a, which is the Starlet turbo, would be a good way to go. The CT12 series are very small on the exhaust side, which is what I want.

Anything smaller in the exhaust than a T25 should be on boost before 8000, which is fine by me :D
A VF13 or VF18 from a TT Legacy would do I think, will do some more research

Fast Eddie

11th June 2012, 20:58

turbos are a laugh, im def going to have another go at one and do it better so its everyday rideable..

i think bike engines are good for it eh, usually fairly strong.. I recon pay a bit of attention to heat and lubing.. (im thinking an 1127cc gsxr oil burner lump would slot into a nice frame with a turbo around its neck) it was only my big end bearings that wore out, rest of it was sweet. sold the motor to a fella to use in a go kart in the end, looked like fun when he was done.

ducatilover

11th June 2012, 21:07

Big ends will wear out if your tune/timing is off. That's why I'll be retarding my timing, it'll drop some power, but it'll be safe

Fast Eddie

13th June 2012, 11:52

Big ends will wear out if your tune/timing is off. That's why I'll be retarding my timing, it'll drop some power, but it'll be safe

nah make full power and risk it all brother!

you like to paint a thing or two DL, I've finished painting my seat cowl in as close to a color match as I could get (im color blind looks right to me eh?) now its almost finished curing off, base/clear coat whats the last step I can do to try bring out a bit more gloss.. just a rubbing compound/cut n polish?

264970264971

ducatilover

13th June 2012, 12:03

nah make full power and risk it all brother!

you like to paint a thing or two DL, I've finished painting my seat cowl in as close to a color match as I could get (im color blind looks right to me eh?) now its almost finished curing off, base/clear coat whats the last step I can do to try bring out a bit more gloss.. just a rubbing compound/cut n polish?

Brrrrmmmmm pssshhh brrrmmm POP

That's looking nice man.
Moar clear will get uber gloss, flattening back with 1600/200 grit before final coat an then a soft cut/polish a few weeks after it has cured (paint gotta breathe yo)

The black on the 600 looks seriously fucked, something has reacted and it's rough, orange peel from 'Nam and easily scratched. So, great excuse to get a decent gun and do some 2K. (It's enamel, second time I've sprayed enamel, I prefer acrylic)

Fast Eddie

13th June 2012, 12:08

Brrrrmmmmm pssshhh brrrmmm POP

That's looking nice man.
Moar clear will get uber gloss, flattening back with 1600/200 grit before final coat an then a soft cut/polish a few weeks after it has cured (paint gotta breathe yo)

The black on the 600 looks seriously fucked, something has reacted and it's rough, orange peel from 'Nam and easily scratched. So, great excuse to get a decent gun and do some 2K. (It's enamel, second time I've sprayed enamel, I prefer acrylic)

true, it musnt have liked your prep work or something :D maybe shit conditions.. I bring my stuff inside to warm/cure off.

this seat cowl has been inside for 1.5 weeks now curing.. its almost there but i can still smell a wee bit of it. some youtube clip i watched of a kiwi in his garage said ya can wait up to 2 weeks sometimes

So you recon I should flatten it off with 1600 wet and then chuck another coat of clear on? because like I said, its been curing off for a week and a bit now I thought that was it and I couldn't put any more on it..

its lacquer paints.. base and clear.

and yea it looks pretty good, its nice and smooth cause i took my time with sanding and some light filler and sanding between coats of base.. but it doesnt quite have that deep gloss to it yet.

ducatilover

13th June 2012, 12:21

true, it musnt have liked your prep work or something :D maybe shit conditions.. I bring my stuff inside to warm/cure off.

this seat cowl has been inside for 1.5 weeks now curing.. its almost there but i can still smell a wee bit of it. some youtube clip i watched of a kiwi in his garage said ya can wait up to 2 weeks sometimes

So you recon I should flatten it off with 1600 wet and then chuck another coat of clear on? because like I said, its been curing off for a week and a bit now I thought that was it and I couldn't put any more on it..

its lacquer paints.. base and clear.

and yea it looks pretty good, its nice and smooth cause i took my time with sanding and some light filler and sanding between coats of base.. but it doesnt quite have that deep gloss to it yet.
I wasn't as OCD with my prep as usual, was hanging out to throw some gloss black around :facepalm: it was a bit cold too so both the top and black coats are fuckin' soft.
I wouldn't throw any more at it, just polish it when it's cured. If you're using a harsh/strong compound use a buff and wet the wheel on it, it's quite easy to burn/damage the paint...DAMHIK

How many coats of clear has it got? I reckon she'll come up real good after a polish. Not many people get the sexy finish straight off the gun.

imdying

13th June 2012, 12:27

I'm not sure I'd bother trying to flatten with that grade of paper, it's a bit fine and will basically just polish the top without flattening. A 600-800 would be as light as I'd go, but TBH if I were doing it to put another clear coat on, I'd use a 400... it's aggressive enough to actually flatten orange peel out, and aggressive enough to leave a keyed surface for the next coat to really latch on to... but it's also gentle enough that your next clear coat will make the scratches you would expect to see disappear completely.

ducatilover

13th June 2012, 12:46

Fast Eddie

13th June 2012, 13:02

hmm gotta count.. I think I put a first coat on that was ultra light, just a dusting.. then 1 good coat, then another.. then im sure I went 1 more.. so call it 3 wet coats? but they probably werent that thick - it was a very cold day I was doing it so i was putting it on pretty light.

if 1600 would polish it maybe I could give it a wet rub with that to polish it a bit and then rubbing compound? hmmm lol...

on another part I used I did use 1200 wet and I'm pretty sure I got through the clear coat way quicker than I thought and ended up having to put more clear on/start again.. so I think maybe I do light coats of clear? hard to know.. if I go too thick I usually get clouding issues so been fairly cautious since wrecking a few bits.

imdying

13th June 2012, 13:10

ducatilover

13th June 2012, 13:16

imdying

13th June 2012, 13:33

Just polish it bro, I wouldn't be too keen sanding the top coat. If it goes wrong, you have gay looking paint :facepalm:
Imdying, have you made some carbon stuff yourself? I'm going to learn how to lay carbon, just for shits and gigs. (then I'll make a carbon, tank, tail and guard for the 600)Yeah some... that's basically why I did it too... I figured if John Britten could do it in his garage, so could I... of course it all spiralled out of control... now my garage has an 'oven' in the roof big enough for a car bonnet and a vacuum pump hahahahahah

ducatilover

13th June 2012, 13:49

Yeah some... that's basically why I did it too... I figured if John Britten could do it in his garage, so could I... of course it all spiralled out of control... now my garage has an 'oven' in the roof big enough for a car bonnet and a vacuum pump hahahahahah
:laugh: Brilliant

Fast Eddie

13th June 2012, 14:14

I'm no painter so my advice is probably worth what you paid for it... but I have clear coated a few carbon parts I've made, and as you can imagine sanding scratches show up pretty easily... and I use 400 on those. The top coat needs to be sprayed thick enough for it to flow (into the scratches/keying etc), but not so thick that it runs... and that appears to be the challenge... Takes some practice, but it's generally only funny shapes that are what I could consider difficult.

Choice, i'v got plenty of bits to paint so plenty of practice ahead - yea only reason I don't go thicker is that when it dries it gets all cloudy for me, i don't really get runs. I tried to thin out the last layer of clear to try get it to sit flatter but yea.. its still going to need a final polish to get it glossier.

Just polish it bro, I wouldn't be too keen sanding the top coat. If it goes wrong, you have gay looking paint :facepalm:
chur will do, I get my stuff from a wee paint shop, I wouldn't know if they are any good or not but their service is good so I'll just buy whatever they give me eh.. its that or turtlewax from the warehouse ;) lol

... now my garage has an 'oven' in the roof big enough for a car bonnet and a vacuum pump

haha thats awesome, fibreglassing was challenging enough for me, guess I better give carbon fibre a go too eh. nice carbon toilet seat would look good in the throne

imdying

13th June 2012, 14:49

Choice, i'v got plenty of bits to paint so plenty of practice ahead - yea only reason I don't go thicker is that when it dries it gets all cloudy for me, i don't really get runs. I tried to thin out the last layer of clear to try get it to sit flatter but yea.. its still going to need a final polish to get it glossier.If you're getting bloom, then quite likely it's just too cold. Seeing as you're using a proper paint shop, ask them and they'll give your the product manufacturers data sheets. Don't spray when humidity is much over 50% (get a cheap weather station if you have to), don't spray when it's too cold. It's probably just moisture in the air getting trapped in the clear coat. There's a couple of painters on here who might know something useful. In my experience spraying in cold weather is just asking to have to flatten it back and try again... DAMHIK!

I love fibreglassing... it's so damn easy (compared to carbon) reckon I could train a monkey to do it! To be fair, carbon isn't that much harder, it's only when you want lovely undisturbed weave with a pinhole free finish that things get tricky....

ducatilover

13th June 2012, 16:46

In my experience spraying in cold weather is just asking to have to flatten it back and try again... DAMHIK!
Have to agree there... might be why my current paint looks so superbly shite.

I love fibreglassing... it's so damn easy (compared to carbon) reckon I could train a monkey to do it! To be fair, carbon isn't that much harder, it's only when you want lovely undisturbed weave with a pinhole free finish that things get tricky....
Glass is great and easy :Punk: I'll have to buy some carbon and give it a go, I hate carbon that hasn't got straight weave when it's been shaped, looks poo. So chances are, I'll be wasting lots of money...

theflyingkiwi

13th June 2012, 17:01

hey imdying, what have you done to you RGV? i see that your a regular on the RGV forum, im doing the basic things like heads, power valves, zeel unit, kit pipes, got any other secrets that you dont mind sharing, like have you tryed 38mm carbs etc, i understand that the top tuners keep there secrets in a safe, so if not allgood :)

imdying

13th June 2012, 19:03

theflyingkiwi

13th June 2012, 21:19

cheers for that

Fast Eddie

13th June 2012, 22:11

im doing the basic things like ... kit pipes.
(got any other secrets that you dont mind sharing)

What kit pipes have you got/getting bro? where did you get em from.. I'd like some of these elusive kit pipes..

don't hold out, share some secrets with all of us now! this is my thread after all, jeez :shifty:

Fast Eddie

13th June 2012, 22:13

If you're getting bloom, then quite likely it's just too cold. Don't spray when humidity is much over 50% (get a cheap weather station if you have to), don't spray when it's too cold. It's probably just moisture in the air getting trapped in the clear coat. There's a couple of painters on here who might know something useful.

cheers bro, yea it is pretty cold here most of the time in Dunedin.. I will adjust my workspace maybe, I could set up a tent and maybe some heating (maybe a fire... will start a thread if that happens)

I bring anything small enough inside straight away but i guess thats not good enough if the application is in a cold shed. I warm the paint up to room temp too bout 21 deg.

anyway.. always learning.. and can always improve the workshop

ducatilover

13th June 2012, 22:20

Come up here and tidy my workshop mate, I've got man-flu, been inside for two days! :facepalm:

tigertim20

13th June 2012, 22:35

Come up here and tidy my workshop mate, I've got man-flu, been inside for two days! :facepalm:

dont you have to be a man to have man flu?:blink::shutup:

ducatilover

13th June 2012, 22:42

dont you have to be a man to have man flu?:blink::shutup:
Want a reach around?

theflyingkiwi

14th June 2012, 18:14

What kit pipes have you got/getting bro? where did you get em from.. I'd like some of these elusive kit pipes..

don't hold out, share some secrets with all of us now! this is my thread after all, jeez :shifty:

my 'kit' pipes are sayaga? if thats how you spell it, i brought them before i brought the black bike with the tygas. and yes i want to keep those pipes aswell :)

Fast Eddie

14th June 2012, 19:30

my 'kit' pipes are sayaga? if thats how you spell it, i brought them before i brought the black bike with the tygas. and yes i want to keep those pipes aswell :)

oh yip never heard of sayaga.. they aren't on the list of 'kit pipes' in my kit tuning manual guide thing.. the ones they keep harping on about are Lomas pipes or the ones I assume are from suzuki or something the factory kit pipes.

I keep asking but no one seems to know much how to get em.

where do you get sayaga pipes from? and how much they sting ya?

meh anyone can get tygas off their website and they are cheap - dunno if they are that great tho.. i want these kit pipes in the race manual i have lol or lomas pipes

xxcbr69xx

14th June 2012, 19:42

oh yip never heard of sayaga.. they aren't on the list of 'kit pipes' in my kit tuning manual guide thing.. the ones they keep harping on about are Lomas pipes or the ones I assume are from suzuki or something the factory kit pipes.

I keep asking but no one seems to know much how to get em.

where do you get sayaga pipes from? and how much they sting ya?

meh anyone can get tygas off their website and they are cheap - dunno if they are that great tho.. i want these kit pipes in the race manual i have lol or lomas pipes

Try here for JL pipes, not cheap tho!
http://www.jl-mxshop.com/jl-aprilia-exhausts-9-c.asp

Video tour of their workshop....
http://youtu.be/v-6HQvguUu0

Mines got Arrows on it but would love a set of SS Lomas pipes.

theflyingkiwi

14th June 2012, 20:36

i got the pipes with the 'kit' SAPC 22d50 together for 900 off trademe

Fast Eddie

14th June 2012, 22:07

i got the pipes with the 'kit' SAPC 22d50 together for 900 off trademe

at least the 22d50 matches up :D pretty cool find on trademe..

I sort of keep an eye out for rgv parts but never seen anything cool..

chur bro I'll keep hunting for a place to buy new - looks like the fella above has given me a link :D

Fast Eddie

14th June 2012, 22:08

Try here for JL pipes, not cheap tho!

cheers bro! legend, google searches and asking people til now has not given me the site to buy em. cheers for that.. I thought they had stopped making them or something and that perhaps lomas was no longer around (since I read alot of old articles when these bikes were new/popular haha)

cheers again! rep for u

cool vid for their workshop too

Fast Eddie

14th June 2012, 22:11

p.s. the lomas pipes are not as bad as I thought.. since I read about them a lot and they seem to be THE pipes to go for if you have an rgv or rs250..

500 quid is not unaffordable.

full akrapovik titanium system for my year fireblade.. was over 3,000 from memory eeek.. too late its on the bike now haha! and worth more than the bike..

imdying

15th June 2012, 08:59

oh yip never heard of sayaga.. they aren't on the list of 'kit pipes' in my kit tuning manual guide thing..Sagaya made all the kit parts for Suzuki.

Fast Eddie

15th June 2012, 10:07

Sagaya made all the kit parts for Suzuki.

churr, there you go - they are probably the kit pipes in the manual then..

choice choice - got some names and websites now should be able to score some kit pipes eventually..

Aprilia is back on the back burner anyway - need to buy a big trailer for the sidecar and fit a towbar to the car now. $$$$

think the blade needs new wheel bearings and some TLC too.. she gets a hard life.

ducatilover

15th June 2012, 10:15

Do a fuckin' skid already ya twat

imdying

15th June 2012, 11:35

churr, there you go - they are probably the kit pipes in the manual then..AFAIK, but you'd want to double check.

There was set a set on Yahoo Japan last year, 1 of 10 sets, in titanium, $3500NZD. I wanted them so badly... but basically unobtainable so that would be that first time I crashed the bike.... didn't seem like the best place to put $3500 when it's just a thrash at the track bike.

imdying

15th June 2012, 11:38

FYI, as I understand it, Sagaya are producing their RGV chambers again, I think it's to order. Not cheap, but reputedly the best for higly tuned avgas sucking race engines.

Kickaha

15th June 2012, 18:03

she gets a hard life.

Who from, I heard you ride like a pussy

Fast Eddie

16th June 2012, 21:01

FYI, as I understand it, Sagaya are producing their RGV chambers again, I think it's to order. Not cheap, but reputedly the best for higly tuned avgas sucking race engines.

cheers, haha shit 3,500 bangers, oh well can still dream. compared to lomas for like 400quid.. wait for a good exchange rate hehe.

cheers for the info too

Fast Eddie

16th June 2012, 21:12

I heard you ride like a pussy

:finger: hurry up and fix at least one of your bikes so u can ride like one too!

Fast Eddie

18th June 2012, 14:36

Hand painted 'Fireblade' logo on the underside of my seat cowl - thanks to the mrs,

265218265219

this blade is cussstommm son, will make a thread for it when the nitrous tank arrives and the aprilia is finished.. ;) muahahahaha

oh also watch this space for upcoming sidecar build thread! woo, 3 is always better than 2, not only with girls in bed but wheels too!

ducatilover

18th June 2012, 14:50

Has your mrs got a sister?

imdying

18th June 2012, 14:52

cheers, haha shit 3,500 bangers, oh well can still dream.Only the Ti ones, normally steel ones are much cheaper.

tigertim20

18th June 2012, 15:18

ducatilover

18th June 2012, 15:24

hmm, looks like your missus has become quite good at using her fingers on small things with tiny details.

Shhh, he'll catch on!

It looks good BTW :niceone:

Fast Eddie

18th June 2012, 15:42

hmm, looks like your missus has become quite good at using her fingers on small things with tiny details.

haha, she perfected it working on 'me junk and has now transferred it to painting stuff

Shhh, he'll catch on!

:lol: doubt it, im pretty thick

It looks good BTW :niceone:

churr! need to think of a way to replace the right hand pillion peg with some diy bracket, since the peg itself is the exhaust hanger.. needs a replacement before I can go solo.

ducatilover

18th June 2012, 18:15

:lol: doubt it, im pretty thick
That's not what she said :bleh:

churr! need to think of a way to replace the right hand pillion peg with some diy bracket, since the peg itself is the exhaust hanger.. needs a replacement before I can go solo.
Buy some alloy tube, chop, bend, drill, polish, done. Then do that to the tube as well.

tigertim20

18th June 2012, 19:47

when are you gonna finally have this fuckin thing rideable?

Kickaha

18th June 2012, 19:54

when are you gonna finally have this fuckin thing rideable?

Rideable? I think that's asking a bit much

tigertim20

18th June 2012, 20:11

Rideable? I think that's asking a bit much
nah it should be fine since he said he wasnt letting you anywhere near it!:bleh:

Kickaha

18th June 2012, 20:15

nah it should be fine since he said he wasnt letting you anywhere near it!:bleh:

Piss off I've only fucked two bikes in the last 16 months, that's a pretty good run for me, promise I wont thrash it :whistle:

Fast Eddie

18th June 2012, 22:08

when are you gonna finally have this fuckin thing rideable?

I haven't done anything on it for months really, sidecar had taken over finances until a week or two ago and that old uni thang - but last exam for uni is on wednesday, I have all the bits for the aprilia except front forks so will chuck it back together over the holidays - but if money is needed along the way then will flag in favour of the sidecar... she'll get there eventually :)

Rideable? I think that's asking a bit much

hehe.. lets just get the thing back together without leaving my watch or screwdriver in the crank case eh

Fast Eddie

3rd July 2012, 10:43

this is for the fireblade again.. flagged ducatis vague idea of using tube to make a new exhaust mount. instead I grabbed a spare pillion peg hanger off tradies and chopped it up, gonna start polishing it now.. takes fuckn ages tho! there must be a faster way to polish..

.. pre chopping..
265853

.. after chopping..
265854

.. starting to try and polish to a mirror finish..
265855

.. but dunno if I can be bothered polishing it, might just paint it haha! ducatilover I dunno how you do it but I recon u use a machine or have some trick. cause doing shit by hand literally takes 4-5 hours.. and its not even perfect then, you'd have to spend way too long on shit to actually get it to a mirror finish - why would any one want to sit there rubbing shit for hours! :D

imdying

3rd July 2012, 11:47

Silver powdercoat it. Then it'll stay that way forever. Polishing things just leads to a life time of maintaining that finish or living with a shabby once polished ride. You've been warned...

But yeah, put a mop on your bench grinder. That'll make short work of it.

ducatilover

3rd July 2012, 17:36

why would any one want to sit there rubbing shit for hours! :D
Does not compute? I like rubbing off for hours on end and I'm fuckin good at it. :innocent:
My polished parts need the same amount of cleaning as everything else, but I think everything needs cleaning anyway.
Neat mount though.

Fast Eddie

3rd July 2012, 17:50

haha, actually I understood your interest in polishing a little more after today..

hand polished up the mount.. muuuch smoother than it first was - prob hard to see in photos but when I started there was deep scratches all over it etc..

here is the finished product (for now.. will prob go back and do it again to make it better/touch it up)

before..
265865

after..
265862265863265864

Fast Eddie

3rd July 2012, 17:55

and exhaust hanger fitted to bike along with the seat cowl I painted earlier on.. complete with custom fireblade logo painted under the cowl (by the lovely mrs) carbon fibre undertail tray and all associated bits out of carbon fibre.. and yes.. space for a couple of 2lb NOS bottles :D

265866265867265868265869265870265871

ducatilover

3rd July 2012, 18:00

That blade is hella sexy dude, great work, seriously clean looking beast.

Fast Eddie

17th July 2012, 10:48

That blade is hella sexy dude, great work, seriously clean looking beast.

cheers bro.. I love it.. had it since '08 and not sure if I will ever bother to sell it.. I've fucked around on a bit with some keener shed wizards. cylinder head is home port polished n shit, matched weights of moving parts, bought the biggest K&N air filter I could and made a new airbox to fit it. The full titanium akrapovic exhaust system with sweet headers, carb work.. dyno run start of this year put it at 129.33hp at the wheel peak at 9,600, 149.something at the crank. with 80 lb/ft torque starting pretty early and peaking at 7k compared to brand new 1997 out of the factory claims of 128.00 HP at the crank @ 10500 RPM (dunno how they work it out to wheel from crank), 67.3 ft.lbs @ 8750. love it haha also been doing little things, tidying up paint and parts, some polishing which you like ;) little amounts of custom like the headlight cover, seat cowl, brakes, screen, rear sets n so on. Still a bit on the wishlist tho.. Suspension we had a go at.. I'm not sure if I just made it worse trying to respring it and fuck with the settings. It goes ok on the track though wasn't that slow compared to modern bikes that everyone else rides, most of them prob better riders than me so I'll give credit to the bike :D hehe.

anyway enough about that old blade, im sure its only me interested in it! back to the real bike - the 2 stroker. pics coming soon, I'll do a full montage from start to finish I recon.. putting it back together at mo - scratching my head over what to do with suspension though its all very tired and needs money thrown at it :(

Found this little snippet - maybe imdying or eel or someone can shed some light..
in relation to the ignition boxes.. I was planning on buying the hottest one avail for these motors to start the power search but..

"23d70... Aprilia ignition box. It was derived from the 23d10, but they changed the ignition timing to be slightly retarded compared to the race-kit box, and modified the opening times of the power-valves. It has 4 degrees of pre-ignition, but with the 5 degree ignition advancer kit (FZR400 woodruff key) it would produce almost the same advance curve as the 23d10. NOTE: Having now run the box back to back with a 22D30 on the dyno
(Jan 05) no difference could be found. I wonder if the Aprilia "tweaks" are just urban myth?"

seems like the aprilia box may be pretty much as good as the best from suzuki/the race box? and i'm thinking you don't even need the ignition advancer?

was on rgv250.co.uk forums

imdying

18th July 2012, 10:33

Don't bother with all that old school rubbish, these days we have cheap programmable ignitions like the Zeeltronic or Ignitech. Woodruff keys and racing SAPCs are too full of compromise.

There are basically no differences between the RS250 and RGV250 engines. Slight change to the combustion chamber (and plug location for non SP RGVs, a slight change to the ign and PV curves (although really that's all bullshit given just how many different SAPCs there are for an RGV), and some variations in jetting.

Rebuild the engine. Get it running on the factory equipment. Fit your expansion chambers, rejet to suit those. Fit the Zeeltronic box. Tune the powervalve opening curve. Then tune the ignition curve to suit the pipes/compression/squish/fuel/usage that you're going to put it to.

In addition to that sort of shit, you can also plug a quick shifter straight in then for another hundy. None of the 'trick' SAPCs will do that ;-)

Fast Eddie

18th July 2012, 13:54

imdying

18th July 2012, 14:26

Kickaha

18th July 2012, 19:14

- all good, tricky with only 2 hands.

How many hands do most people have in Dunedin?

Madness

18th July 2012, 19:26

The Blade looked better with Doris on it wearing the pink wig & bikini.

Fast Eddie

18th July 2012, 23:40

How many hands do most people have in Dunedin?

more than 2

Fast Eddie

18th July 2012, 23:43

Yeah I've decided to crack on with suspension, finally dropped on some lovely red 07/08 ZX6R forks. Have some (Tyga) triples already, so just need some Brembo loving and some new discs. Oh, and I guess a mudguard... although I might stick with the RGV one and modify it to suit.

Can't decide between an Ohlins or Nitron for the back. With my lack of talent it won't matter much, so long as it's got a spring more suited to my fat arse than a Jap teens.... :rolleyes:

sounds mint :) seen nitron shocks around a lot lately in the UK stuff, isle of man, lot of bikes and a sidecar I was watching had em fitted. I see them on TTW, not bad for a full race shock - prob still have to set it up anyway for weight.

how are those zx6r forks lookin? pics? the aprilia front forks confuse me.. why aren't they identical in the job they do.

imdying

19th July 2012, 09:24

Haven't arrived yet... on priority mail from the states so probably 2-3 days. Those forks are an abomination, I seem to recall the Robert said there wasn't a lot even he could do for them...

Fast Eddie

19th July 2012, 12:06

Haven't arrived yet... on priority mail from the states so probably 2-3 days. Those forks are an abomination, I seem to recall the Robert said there wasn't a lot even he could do for them...

i think for about 1,200 bucks he said he could make em good ;) haha but yea will just service them and use them as is for now..

theflyingkiwi

19th July 2012, 18:34

If got my spacers made up now for my zx 636 05-06 forks, going to put in the bike this weekend end, and ordered my parts from TTW should get here next week. oh and brought a ducati 999 radial brembo off trade me aswall so its gona F@#king stop thats for sure :).

I cant figure out how to put photos up owell

theflyingkiwi

19th July 2012, 21:05

xxcbr69xx

19th July 2012, 21:55

do zeeltronc offer an quickshifter? or is it ingitech? if its cheap i might score one, if its zeel that is!

There's a shift sensor for Zeeltronic on Tuning Works website: http://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/store/product_info.php?products_id=627

theflyingkiwi

20th July 2012, 16:41

Oh bugga! Thanks for that, I proberly would of got one if I saw it, its not under the rgv products, wonder why?

will have to wait till I make an other order. TBH its not that important yet gotta learn to ride the thing first!

Fast Eddie

26th July 2012, 18:10

its not under the rgv products, wonder why?

cause the italian version of the rgv is more worthy ;)

Fast Eddie

26th July 2012, 18:16

Thurs night boredom..

got an rgv or similar with power valves? clean em up! mine had a good mm or more of buildup all over, the blades would not slide smoothly up and down and no doubt a big power robber. Soak em in kero and bam the dirt is gone
266895266894266897266896

although I did them weeks if not months ago now.. bikes gathering dust.

front forks are last item on the list. buy new clip ons and maybe some welding to the expansion chambers is needed..

she's bloody close but stuck at the moment with no free moneys at the moment.

engine looks good, can't wait to fire it up.. couple of pics

Fast Eddie

26th July 2012, 18:18

nope maybe not on the other pics.. damn computers.

I bought a dremel/rotary drill and a bunch of accessories the other day though.. lots of polishing tips - thought might make an easier job of the wheels? but then old DukiLuverr had pointed out uneven finish? I recon im pretty good with it though.. haha

used it remove some stripped screws n shit its awesome! trying to think of other uses for it.. diy dental work?

ducatilover

26th July 2012, 20:24

I got a dremel recently too, I hand polish everything and use the dremel for autosoling. Don't like the finish otherwise, I'm a tiny little bit fussy though ;)

Asher

26th July 2012, 20:29

I just got a dremel too, they are quite cheap but the bits are bloody expensive.

The wire buffering bits are really good but wear off fast and are $15 each :crazy:

ducatilover

26th July 2012, 20:32

I just got a dremel too, they are quite cheap but the bits are bloody expensive.

The wire buffering bits are really good but wear off fast and are $15 each :crazy:
Wear safety goggles with them fuckers :facepalm: I got wire wheel all in my face, nose hair...everywhere except the fucking thing I was cleaning

tigertim20

26th July 2012, 20:55

cause the italian version of the rgv is more worthy ;)

Wear safety goggles with them fuckers :facepalm: I got wire wheel all in my face, nose hair...everywhere except the fucking thing I was cleaning

Ive had that issue. used the little wire wheel to clean hard to get bits of the CR125 frame I repainted.
Couple days later I had a sharp pain near my ballbag. thought I musta got the clap pr something from that slut I nailed the other night err, the toilet seat at work.

tued out the little spiny pieces of metal fly off, and a few had embedded themselves in my jeans. sit a certain way and it dug into your 'man-pouch'. not pleasant.

Man, hens this fuckin thing gonna be ready to ride? Ill trade ya rides, swap you the gsxr 1k for the 'prila!

Fast Eddie

26th July 2012, 21:12

turned out the little spiny pieces of metal fly off, and a few had embedded themselves in my jeans. sit a certain way and it dug into your 'man-pouch'. not pleasant.
Man, whens this fuckin thing gonna be ready to ride? Ill trade ya rides, swap you the gsxr 1k for the 'prila!

Noted, not sure how to stop em going thru the jeans etc but will wear safety glasses :D
It is actually pretty much done, engine is finished and back in frame all hooked up minus spark plug leads (I need to make up my own cause I got some sweet NGK red caps I want to use)
Still need to buy 2 new clip ons since old ones were broken/welded back together but not straight. And also need to rebuild front forks. Its just the $ stopping me from getting the clip ons and forks done.. and never made spark plug leads myself yet.. shouldnt be too hard tho?
yip no worries for a blat on the 2 stroker. n I'll give the gsxr a go. had a few squirts - plenty of fun just like any 1 litre monster shud be hehe - is it finished and on the road already? ur whippin thru em quick hehe.

Wear safety goggles with them fuckers :facepalm: I got wire wheel all in my face, nose hair...everywhere except the fucking thing I was cleaning
lol.. will be careful - I'm about to chuck some pics up of an NZ built zz-r600 making 105hp at the wheel, 125hp on methanol :) carbon fibre frame.. u know it? built by Tony McMurdo

I just got a dremel too, they are quite cheap but the bits are bloody expensive.

The wire buffering bits are really good but wear off fast and are $15 each :crazy:
chur, yea bought few wire wheels, few like wool buffing pads/tips.. grinding bits.. all sorts.. gonna try use it to help polish wheels and other parts.. see what it comes up like.

theflyingkiwi

27th July 2012, 11:05

cause the italian version of the rgv is more worthy ;)

hahaha fair enough

tigertim20

28th July 2012, 11:05

haha yeah, Hayd3n has a touch of plastic welding to do today or tomorrow for me, then in all honesty I could have it legal on monday if I wanted to, but I have a few things to attend to this week, just depends how they go, as to whether or not I get it it legal this week or not

Fast Eddie

19th August 2012, 10:51

Cheapest place to get fork seals done.. in dunners? im guessing a bike shop will charge me a couple hundred. when its like a 30 buck job if ya can do it! haha..

I really just need someone to pull the forks apart and put them back together, I can do the rest - but meh, changing the oil isn't the time consuming bit.

Can be in Dunedin or ChCh.

on a budget as usual, offering minimal cash.. and half eaten sandwhich.

Aprilia rs250 forks, pre98.. very odd, the forks do different jobs - and looks like specialist tool may be needed to at least get one of them apart (according to lovely italian manual..in italian). I'v only done conventional forks before. these are upside down and the left fork is completely different to the right fork.

cheers fellas! prob gonna take them to chch next weekend.. incase imdying wants a crack ;) haha or Kickaha..

otherwise me and the swinger will have at them with hammers hacksaws and ductape.

its the last hurdle before im back on the thing and terrorizing neighbours!! oh and I need new tyres since I sold the ones it came with to help fund the build (smart) they had to come off anyway to polish the wheels. just polished the whole fuckn things.. couldn't be assed trying to paint the centers black again yet.

hayd3n

19th August 2012, 12:06

) they had to come off anyway to polish the wheels. just polished the whole fuckn things.. couldn't be assed trying to paint the centers black again yet.

pics
:blink:

Kickaha

19th August 2012, 12:30

couldn't be assed trying to paint the centers black again yet.

Lazy cunt, you've got plenty of time it's not as though you study or anything

Fast Eddie

19th August 2012, 14:35

pics
:blink:
not THAT polished.. more like paint stripped and bare alloy.. I bought a dremel and some polishing bits but yet to do the work.. will keep buying power tools until its easy.

Lazy cunt, you've got plenty of time it's not as though you study or anything
haha! studying right now!

hayd3n

19th August 2012, 16:07

not THAT polished.. more like paint stripped and bare alloy.. I bought a dremel and some polishing bits but yet to do the work.. will keep buying power tools until its easy.

haha! studying right now!
nice i polished the lips on the hornet took a while
just paint stripped then buffed with a buffing wheel in a old high speed drill
came out not to bad

Fast Eddie

19th August 2012, 17:10

nice i polished the lips on the hornet took a while
just paint stripped then buffed with a buffing wheel in a old high speed drill
came out not to bad

yea think the dremel might be too small.. i first started with paint stripper then hand polish with wet sandpaper... took way too long.

bought the dremel but yet to try it out..

I also saw polishing attachments for the drills on trademe for cheap as - might give that a go next ;) i want them pretty shiny...

there are some pics way at the start of the thread of just the lips polished with black centers.. but then i didnt stop and stripped the whole wheel. and now cant be bothered repainting centers

tigertim20

19th August 2012, 17:51

yea think the dremel might be too small.. i first started with paint stripper then hand polish with wet sandpaper... took way too long.

bought the dremel but yet to try it out..

I also saw polishing attachments for the drills on trademe for cheap as - might give that a go next ;) i want them pretty shiny...

there are some pics way at the start of the thread of just the lips polished with black centers.. but then i didnt stop and stripped the whole wheel. and now cant be bothered repainting centers

Id be hesitant to sand with the dremmel, youll likely gouge the rim. the polishing with a dremmel should be fine though

hayd3n

19th August 2012, 19:30

268476

no sanding just straight polish

so it has a machined finish but looks neat

Fast Eddie

19th August 2012, 20:11

Id be hesitant to sand with the dremmel, youll likely gouge the rim. the polishing with a dremmel should be fine though
nah i won't sand with power shit... gets too uneven too quick. good point.

268476

no sanding just straight polish

so it has a machined finish but looks neat

yea looks neat, I see you don't quite have a neat line between black and polished ;) haha thats why i carried on.. thought i would strip it all off then make a nice neat job of the center.. but no can't be assed.

what I have is like casting marks on my rims tho? they are all stripped of paint and there are lots of like fine lines over the rims and lips.. as if its been machined before or something. the spokes are ok, fairly smooth but casting marks as well here and there.

so gotta wet sand it or something to grind and rub it all down smooth then polish... little bit of a prick/time consuming.