Project Resurrection

[The Lone Rider]

I wasn't gonna fuss about showing this one, but since the other one seemed to draw interest...

Turning a 19 year old bike into something more with the times and repairing and replacing as needed.

Has around 100,000K on it, and most of the parts are still original (although has had at least 1 new paint job and seats re-covered).

Am at odds about this fender... it looks good from the back but the lines of it arent right from the side. Might google image and get some ideas. It's a question of if it can be made to look good without too much work (just widening).

If I don't use a fender that wraps around more than the stock one, the front fender I've already made for it will have to go as it won't match.

Edit - Think I already found a solution to the weird looking rear fender.

https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/547761_10150695268920256_228131685255_9173430_6008 43834_a.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/528196_10150695269095256_228131685255_9173431_1017 090925_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/293057_10150695270065256_228131685255_9173435_1121 744772_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/549986_10150695270140256_33689092_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/528544_10150695270345256_1546524114_n.jpg

[NinjaNanna]

subscribed and watching with interest

[The Lone Rider]

After google imaging I've seen quite a few nice bikes that simply had tail tidying and it made a world of difference. I decided I could modify and modernize whats there without making new parts.

Today, made the stop light flush to the edge of the rear fender.

https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/528105_245745335521459_245215305574462_460124_1845 807062_a.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

Reworking the exhausts with a curved down end.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/564735_10150712194145256_228131685255_9237879_1378 48507_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/553672_10150712194335256_228131685255_9237880_1511 013406_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

Replaced several bolts and put in newly machined bushes on the brake side. New pegs both sides, new brake arm & peg right side.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/576631_10150712861770256_228131685255_9240803_1394 509954_n.jpg

Rad cover bolted on minus x2 M6 bolts I need to go buy

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/576631_10150712861780256_228131685255_9240804_7480 96587_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

Pulled air box and cleaned it. Very cool intake!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/559780_10150718022850256_228131685255_9255064_2062 552142_n.jpg

Quite a few bits going to the polishing wheel since they are off. Clear coating over them to see if that keeps them from oxidizing (left) once polished (right).

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/559780_10150718022840256_228131685255_9255063_1164 786733_n.jpg

Got one muffler finished.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/559780_10150718022835256_228131685255_9255062_1883 506307_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/559780_10150718022825256_228131685255_9255061_9281 75927_n.jpg

[ducatilover]

Honda VF750c?
This is gonna be one horny sounding beast

[The Lone Rider]

Tacked up and ready to weld. Just gonna get a second opinion on the symmetry before I weld all the way up.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/580148_10150791886130141_536120140_11639572_101709 5112_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/528046_10150747258465256_228131685255_9323680_2130 168908_n.jpg

Off and out for chrome (or if to pricey... polish and clear coating, or paint)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/576529_10150747258330256_228131685255_9323679_2892 16395_n.jpg


As a great man once said... "I does builds motorbicycles. Brmm brrmmm..."

[bogan]

Looking pretty good!

Custom foot controls?

[The Lone Rider]

Custom foot controls?

A guy in the states machines them in his garage and sells them. Those ones are 10 inch forward and 1 inch up.

[bogan]

A guy in the states machines them in his garage and sells them. Those ones are 10 inch forward and 1 inch up.

Yeh they look pretty neat eh! I'm looking to get into making up and selling that sort of thing myself, mind if I ask what they sell for?

[The Lone Rider]

Pipes all welded up and wrapped now.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/580526_10150770352140256_228131685255_9395031_1705 523421_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/535435_10150770352860256_228131685255_9395033_1139 10099_n.jpg


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150814696820141


Finished trimming the stop light

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/557686_10150770352605256_228131685255_9395032_5805 24936_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

A bit of Thursday awesomeness

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/156410_10150859686390256_228131685255_9475115_4655 42108_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/522356_10150859686685256_228131685255_9475116_1403 172123_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/529798_10150859686825256_228131685255_9475117_1211 511039_n.jpg

[ducatilover]

I like the headlight, have seen 'em on eBay. Looks grouse in black:niceone:

[The Lone Rider]

So I said 'Let there be bars' and there was. And I saw that they were good, said that they were good, and they were good.

Actually, won't know until they are on. Hope I don't need longer cables!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/551679_10150870821590256_228131685255_9507999_1248 122820_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

Some nice pointy horns, just like a demon

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/399014_10150878892270256_228131685255_9527724_2608 3572_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

Whats round, purple, and glistens like silk when in the sun?


My fuckin wheels!


https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/524919_10150912731810256_228131685255_9624986_2037 725334_n.jpg

[NinjaNanna]

Whats round, purple, and glistens like silk when in the sun?


My fuckin wheels!

Didn't see that coming - will watch with interest to see how you tie that together with the matt black and chrome.

[The Lone Rider]

Didn't see that coming - will watch with interest to see how you tie that together with the matt black and chrome.

Look at the risers in previous post. Fittings are purple also.

[MisterD]

My fuckin wheels!


Why do I suddenly feel like nipping out to the shop for a bar of chocolate?

[ducatilover]

Love them wheels! :headbang:

[The Lone Rider]

Love them wheels! :headbang:

You should see them in person. I've shown people at work photos of wheels and risers, and they kinda hummed and hahed and basically said "Hmm that's different".

But then I brought the risers and the sprocket hub from the middle of the wheel and it became "Wow that looks really nice!!"

[ducatilover]

You should see them in person. I've shown people at work photos of wheels and risers, and they kinda hummed and hahed and basically said "Hmm that's different".

But then I brought the risers and the sprocket hub from the middle of the wheel and it became "Wow that looks really nice!!"

You have to love it when you make shit fit together, I think beauty is in the detail and thought put in :2thumbsup

[The Lone Rider]

Front back on... for the most part.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/546189_285537248208934_1650704482_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

If anyone wants to put in some time wrenching, either for the experience to notch on their belt or because they are nice (or want beer) let me know. I'm expecting to have chrome back this week.

Keen to get the damn thing finished and off the lift.

Beer provided. I reckon I work better once in the golden zone of sauced. Just enough for time to fly, not enough to be sloppy.

:drinkup:

[ducatilover]

Where are you based? If you're near the Manawatu I may be able to come throw some spanners around

[The Lone Rider]

Got some of the chrome back.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285707_10150936051655256_168881549_n.jpg


As you can see, there is a fair bit missing. The chromer has had several goes, but there still is some parts not chroming well. I got to look at the bits that weren't any good, and they come out pitted in some areas. It is odd though, because as you can see there is one hand lever and one foot lever, but the identical ones from the other side are getting sporadic pitting.

Chromer says normally if it was an issue with their gear, the entire piece would become pitted. The parts that are pitting are only doing it in a few spots here and there. There also seems to be no correspondence between older parts or new ones chromed better - the switch blocks were brand new, but things like that left foot and hand lever weren't! Also, no correspondence between wether polished and prepped cast parts chromed better than polished and prepped billet parts!

Does anyone know how to get the switch out of the left hand clutch lever mount? It's the switch used to cut off the engine if it's in gear and you haven't pulled the lever in.

[98tls]

Cant help with the switch thing mate but can ask you to hurry up and post some decent pics of this bike eh:mad:Enjoying the thread...:drool:

[The Lone Rider]

About the only bit of chrome I can assemble at the moment. Had to run taps through the threads, and file some of it. And fiddle with the switch as it got a bit cooked in the chroming process. Here's hoping that it works proper.

https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/575741_10150937875675256_1140737981_a.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

... am still waiting on the rest of the chrome

*sigh* :(

Edit -

In the mean time.. I'll make up some fanciful graphics in it's place.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/543175_10150967025930256_1741807238_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

... major news to be released by tonight... tomorrow night at the latest.

Check back then! :drool:

[ducatilover]

You had a baby? :nya:

[NinjaNanna]

prick tease

[The Lone Rider]

TIME TO ASSEMBLE!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/534484_299891800106812_1727716299_n.jpg


:yawn: Real tiring unwrapping all that stuff.

Been busy tapping threads and drilling holes, and a little bit of filing, due to chrome build up

More parts than could fit on camera. Few more bits actually at powder coaters as well. They say done by Monday... maybe ready and assembled by Wednesday if I'm lucky and there's no hitches.

Also been taking inventory of any damaged bolts and nuts, and replacing with new ones.

That rear brake hub is HORRRRNNN


Going to be VERRRY busy covering all the new chrome with masking tape. S.O.P. in my workshop with chrome, so that it don't get a ding when installing it.

[unstuck]

Very nice.:2thumbsup

[The Lone Rider]

Anyone wanna guess what these are for?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/523439_10150991545065256_1152450402_n.jpg


Hint... there are only the two going on the bike.

[ducatilover]

They're for some things to thread on to! :msn-wink: Fuck I'm good

[The Lone Rider]

Well hopefully you can figure it out with this one

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/603443_10150991544980256_2144148265_n.jpg

[ducatilover]

It's a vivid to mark out that your mount needs polishing?:bleh:
Tell us already for fecks sake

[The Lone Rider]

It's a vivid to mark out that your mount needs polishing?:bleh:
Tell us already for fecks sake
http://www.bikepartsuk.com/images/ww/parts/345901.jpg
Shortens indicators so they mount without a stem.



Depends on the bike, but this has brought the rear ones about 4" closer to the rear fender.

[ducatilover]

Very cool, I like! :niceone:

[The Lone Rider]

Nearly got the entire bike together now, and ready to start up.

Except...

Hopped on to do the bar & control positioning and discovered I don't think I'm going to be able to hold it up due to a partially disabled arm.

I know Onearmedbandit manages.. but I don't think I can with this bike.

Maybe if I can find some risers that are quite long and will clear the tank... might be able to hold it upright.

:facepalm:

[Drew]

YOU FUCKIN WHAT? We want pictures of it finished ya bloody tease!

[The Lone Rider]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/396689_10150997159350256_212734796_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/250986_10150997159615256_1488677647_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/255319_10150997159985256_125385546_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/544999_10150997160195256_1013148706_n.jpg

[ducatilover]

That really sucks dude! Finish the bike anyway and show us pics of awesomeness :cool:

[The Lone Rider]

... so close to finished!

But the added thickness of the chrome has made a bearing too short, so having one made up.


The just leaves mounting and setting up foot levers, rear brake set up, bleed brakes, attach side covers and front fender, wire front headlight and attach. Then test electrics, and fire up.


BRRRROMM BRRROOOM!! :scooter:

[The Lone Rider]

95% done but just cant seem to get the front brake filled and bled!

What the fuck!?

Think I spent two hours pulling the lever, opening valve and then closing it, then letting the lever go. Then repeat x1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000

[ducatilover]

Bleed nipple lower than the top of the caliper? Try undoing the bolts and moving it around in case you have an air lock in there, happens to my 600 every time.

[Drew]

Very common complaint with the old master cylinders.

You need to get the fluid feed and return inside the reseviour higher than the banjo bolt, (usually means taking it off the bar), then just very slowly bring the lever in and out. It will bleed itself. Done it hundreds of times on older bikes. Be carefull obviously not to have too much fluid so that it spills out all over the show.

Have fun and post some more pics fuck ya!

[The Lone Rider]

Tried drews suggestion... got bubbles going up the res, but eventually stopped. No gripping the brake though. Left it teetering, with the banjo bolt lower than the feed.

Then tried something someone at work suggested - looping the tube on the end of the bleeder. So pumped, and opened bleed & closed, then released lever. Getting plenty of air bubbles coming up, but after 30-40 mins of this... I've fuckin had it.

So unless someone has ideas... unfinished project soon for sale. Really cant be fucked with it anymore.

Also little view window in res didn't survive the chroming, and leaks. Was hoping to get brake going, then clean up window area and put some sealant on it.

[Drew]

It's a tedious bitch of a process sometimes. If you've got a hose on the bleed nipples on the caliper you can just leave it open and pump fluid through without nipping it back up.

Problem is that f there's air in the banjo area you're trying to pump it down hill and it won't work.

If it builds any pressure at all, pump it up a bit, then crack the top banjo and nip it back up fairly quickly like a bleed nipple. Had to do that a few times. If you were in Wellington I'd come give you a hand.

[The Lone Rider]

Right, got front brakes although wont know it's effectiveness until I get it off the lift.

I swapped out the new (and chromed) res for the old scratched up factory one, and it was pretty much smooth sailing from there. I've left the chrome lever and cover on, but ugly worn out res. fitting though, given that res was the one that probably limited damage to me to only a fractured elbow.

Head problems with headlight, cheap piece of shit! Got it going now, and I hope it lasts!

Indicators on, just need front fender, tank, and mirrors.

Will still have a few bugs to work out, like I need a helicoil in one place, and I need to fabricate a new bracket to put the new horn on.

[The Lone Rider]

Well you wanted photos... so here :motu:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/578740_10151007528000256_427987029_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/295348_10151007527890256_833403690_n.jpg

[Drew]

That is EPIC cool man. Well done.

[bogan]

That is coming along nicely! I wonder how the purple will show up in natural light?

[Drew]

That is coming along nicely! I wonder how the purple will show up in natural light?

Quite noticeable in the shot of the bar risers.

[The Lone Rider]

Yeap, the chrome with purple, and what is a dull satin black all contrasts greatly, but not in a negative way.

Lights in the tach are playing up, and it's not reading the revs properly.

A little difficult to manage when turning due to my bad arm.

And problems with rear brake lever being to high and not really being effective.

But pretty good otherwise.

[ducatilover]

That is fucking cool. Well done

[The Lone Rider]

Powder coater was so impressed with bike, he asked for snaps to use for website gallery.

Getting lots of looks, although plenty of people saying they wouldn't have gone with the purple. To bad, the purple gets a lot of looks.

Now to see if it gets me some tail. :drool:

[cynna]

seen you down moorhouse ave - didnt notice the purple wheels tho

[The Lone Rider]

seen you down moorhouse ave - didnt notice the purple wheels tho

Not at night you wouldn't. It's a dark purple.

[scumdog]

Absolutely love the look of that bike, it's the shizz!!

Shows what can be doen with perserverence and ingenuity


EXCEPT for the half-Arab wrapped around the zorst-pipes.:crazy:
It 'cheapens' the appearance of the rest of the bike, it smacks of "Oh that bit of the exhaust looked like shit cos you could see (name you pet ugly - bolt hole/rough weld etc.) so I decided to hide it".

Only it draws attention.

[The Lone Rider]

Absolutely love the look of that bike, it's the shizz!!

Shows what can be doen with perserverence and ingenuity


EXCEPT for the half-Arab wrapped around the zorst-pipes.:crazy:
It 'cheapens' the appearance of the rest of the bike, it smacks of "Oh that bit of the exhaust looked like shit cos you could see (name you pet ugly - bolt hole/rough weld etc.) so I decided to hide it".

Only it draws attention.

Or it keeps the copious amount of boot marks off the exhaust, as what happened in it's previous incarnation. Oh, and the wrap takes some of the high frequency edge off the timbre of the exhaust. Stainless 2" is a bit rattly and tin sounding.


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=461478875140&set=vb.228131685255&type=2&theater


Gonna make a new rear brake linkage and get it done purple as well. The linkage extension that came with the forward control kit has always been poxy. I can do better. And actually I've already modified the kit with different bushings - the way they say to set it up isn't as nice as it can be. Mods were done a year ago though.

[scumdog]

(name you pet ugly - bolt hole/rough weld etc.)

So your 'pet ugly' was boot-marks eh!:lol:

[The Lone Rider]

(name you pet ugly - bolt hole/rough weld etc.)

So your 'pet ugly' was boot-marks eh!:lol:

Boot marks look worse. And dont come off once melted. Neither does melted saddlebags (or the chocolate that once sat in them)

[The Lone Rider]

Maybe someone has an idea on this...

Bike seems to be running really hot!

While there's been a fair amount of traffic coming home each day, I can definitely "smell" the engine. The overheat light hasn't come on though. And the weather is reasonably chilled at 5pm.

And when I pull into home and turn off the engine, you can hear the radiator fan wirring down.


Seems a bit odd... only time I've really had that is in really bad traffic mid summer, or a REALLY hot day.


Coolant change and oil change??? I dunno what else to do!

[Drew]

Coolant change and oil change??? I dunno what else to do!That's where I'd start. Make sure you bleed the water pump when you fill it back up.

[bogan]

Is the radiator getting hot? if not something is wrong with your cooling system (thermostat, pump etc). If it does get nice and warm, could be something else like the jetting.

[willytheekid]

Gidday mate :niceone:

Bikes looking awesome!, if she's running really hot might be running way to lean.
Other than that, yeah, oil & coolant change may help...but with a zorst change etc, my money is on the air/fuel mix being out :2thumbsup

Hope all is well tho, keep up the great work

[The Lone Rider]

Well it's not really an exhaust change. the only difference is the chrome tips with the down turn. The 2" stainless mufflers have been on there for a good 20,000K before that, with the same 4" baffle and packing.

[Drew]

Be real careful about it getting warm, head gaskets are a shit of a job on these.

[Drew]

How long did it sit? For the sake of fuck all money, get a new thermostat.

[The Lone Rider]

As far as engine and intake is concerned, the only changes in the last 20,000K or so is that I've

cleaned the air filter,
replaced the pre-air filter (as old one had disintegrated),
cleaned the air intake and stacks and put carb cleaner down the carbs,
new heat wrap on exhaust,
chrome tips with a down turn.. no more than 5-10mm longer than before.


Exhaust has pretty much been exactly the same since just before Sep 9, 2010.. going by the promo video I've posted above where it shows clips of the mufflers being made.


Haven't done an oil change or coolant change in last 6 months. Been sitting since January, while I work on it.

[NinjaNanna]

So when do we get the proper glamor shots complete with seat fitted and all polished up?

[The Lone Rider]

So when do we get the proper glamor shots complete with seat fitted and all polished up?

Dunno... might take some tomorrow night. Gonna have to clean it again first.

Need photos of the OTHER bike I finished a couple months ago first.

[scumdog]

Maybe someone has an idea on this...

Bike seems to be running really hot!

While there's been a fair amount of traffic coming home each day, I can definitely "smell" the engine. The overheat light hasn't come on though. And the weather is reasonably chilled at 5pm.

And when I pull into home and turn off the engine, you can hear the radiator fan wirring down.


Seems a bit odd... only time I've really had that is in really bad traffic mid summer, or a REALLY hot day.


Coolant change and oil change??? I dunno what else to do!

Get hold of one of those infra-red thermometer (the point-and-read gizmos) and check the motor REALLY is hot.

[ducatilover]

Bleed the cooling system, check the plugs to see if it's lean. :niceone:

[The Lone Rider]

Get hold of one of those infra-red thermometer (the point-and-read gizmos) and check the motor REALLY is hot.

If you mean one of these = http://www.mbeelectrical.co.nz/img/MBE-electrical-profile.jpg

I know someone who does it - except the fucking things cost about $400 a day to rent from memory.

[Drew]

If you mean one of these = http://www.mbeelectrical.co.nz/img/MBE-electrical-profile.jpg

I know someone who does it - except the fucking things cost about $400 a day to rent from memory.

Nope, an infra red temp gauge. Not a heat sensor.

If it smells hot, reads hot, and sounds hot...it's hot. Take the thermostat out and leave it out till you get another one, but don't ride the bike round cooking man.

[The Lone Rider]

Nope, an infra red temp gauge. Not a heat sensor.

If it smells hot, reads hot, and sounds hot...it's hot. Take the thermostat out and leave it out till you get another one, but don't ride the bike round cooking man.

Well doesnt read hot - the temp gauge isn't going on although I realize that's more of a "Turn off the bike now!!" gauge.

I thought thermostat controls the triggering of the radiator? The radiator does go on, it's just on when I would have thought not needed!

[willytheekid]

For peace of mind, just pop the plugs out...if they are super clean (white/grey) or looking like they are scorched...its running way to lean.

a lean motor can burn valves and much more $$$$

A carb left sitting can foul up and block air and fuel jets, floats can stick and much more...just cos it "used" to be good...dosn't mean it still is just cos you havn't touched it.

...check the plugs mate, its either the air fuel mix or the cooling system (Is the new radiator cover blocking the air flow to much?..try removing then riding)
http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/_Upload/Red_Comet/20078200487_3plugCondition.jpg

Hope all is well, keep up the great work mate

[Drew]

Well doesnt read hot - the temp gauge isn't going on although I realize that's more of a "Turn off the bike now!!" gauge.

I thought thermostat controls the triggering of the radiator? The radiator does go on, it's just on when I would have thought not needed!
Thermostat works solely on pressure. Water heats up, expands, and needs to push past the thermostat into the cooler lower pressure radiator, it keeps the engine temperature within acceptable levels thus, and nothing expands or contracts to quick causing terminal damage.

If there's anything slowing that process down too much you're fucked. Running without a thermostat is also not the go for any extended time frames either, or in super cool conditions.

[NinjaNanna]

Well doesnt read hot - the temp gauge isn't going on although I realize that's more of a "Turn off the bike now!!" gauge.

I thought thermostat controls the triggering of the radiator? The radiator does go on, it's just on when I would have thought not needed!

The Thermostat is internal to the cooling system - when cold it is closed and prevents the coolant circulating through the system. As the trapped coolant heats the thermostat begins to open and the coolant flows through the radiator. This is part of the warm-up cycle of the bike. The thermstat can become jammed in any position, if jammed shut the bike will overheat quickly, if jammed open the bike will take longer to warm-up and run rough until it has gotten up to temperature. If jammed in a partially open position then you'll get an effect somewhere in the middle.

The next part of the cooling cycle is the radiator fan. If there is insufficient airflow through the radiator then the temp will rise, once it hits a certain temp then a seperate electrical thermo-switch (usually screwed to the side of the radiator with 1 or 2 wires going to it) will close causing the fan to turn on. Once the temperature drops below the thresh-hold then the switch turns off, in turn shutting off the fan. Thermo-switches can go intermitent in funny ways, but if your fan is running even if you think it shouldn't be - then I doubt this is the source of your problem.

I'd follow others advice and pull the plugs to check for lean running, next I'd remove the radiator cover to rule out reduced airflow being the problem, if still hot I'd be suspecting the thermostat, if the thermostat is good then I'd be starting to worry about the water pump or some sort of blockage in the the cooling system.

[NinjaNanna]

Thermostat works solely on pressure. Water heats up, expands, and needs to push past the thermostat into the cooler lower pressure radiator

Not unless you've seen some special thermostat that I haven't heard of.

Thermostats work solely on temperature, you can test them by putting them in a pot of water on the stove and heating them. If you want to be completely accurate then look up your Haynes manual and there should be a temperature spec for them - stick a thermomter in the pot and see if its in spec.



­Any liquid-cooled car engine has a small device called the thermostat that sits between the engine and the radiator. The thermostat in most cars is about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Its job is to block the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine has warmed up. When the engine is cold, no coolant flows through the engine. Once the engine reaches its operating temperature (generally about 200 degrees F, 95 degrees C), the thermostat opens. By letting the engine warm up as quickly as possible, the thermostat reduces engine wear, deposits and emissions.

If you ever have the chance to test one, a thermostat is an amazing thing to watch because what they do seems impossible. You can put one in a pot of boiling water on the stove. As it heats up, its valve opens about an inch, apparently by magic! If you'd like to try this yourself, go to a car parts store and buy one for a couple of bucks.

The secret of the thermostat lies in the small cylinder located on the engine-side of the device. This cylinder is filled with a wax that begins to melt at perhaps 180 degrees F (different thermostats open at different temperatures, but 180 F/82 C is a common temperature). A rod connected to the valve presses into this wax. When the wax melts, it expands significantly and pushes the rod out of the cylinder, opening the valve. If you have read How Thermometers Work and done the experiment with the bottle and the straw, you have seen the same process in action. The wax happens to expand a good bit more because it is changing from a solid to a liquid in addition to expanding from the heat.

(http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question248.htm)

[bogan]

Thermostat works solely on pressure.

You're thinking of the radiator cap. The three thermostat types I'm aware of (wax, bi-metallic, and electronic) all use temperature feedback to open. The first two you can easily check by throwing them in a jug of boiling water, I'm betting on this bike it will be a bi-metallic type. Either way, if it's the thermostat or pump failing, the radiator will be significantly cooler than the engine.

[NinjaNanna]

Oh yeah also remember that the radiator is a closed presurised system. Water under pressure doesn't boil at 100 deg C it's higher than that.

[Drew]

My bad, I did mean temperature, but was think about the whe system and had pressure in my head. Had to type that sentence twice because I used pressure again. Dumb fuck!

[NinjaNanna]

Looking again at your pics - that new radiator guard would be blocking a lot of airflow. It could definately account for both the hot running and the fact that your fan is running when you don't think it should be.

[The Lone Rider]

I pulled the two rear plugs (front ones need more time than I have to get at)

Left rear was little grubby, right rear was grey and little grubby around rim

Look nothing like the lean plugs in picture.

Plugs DID used to look more like the rich plugs though.

Gave grey plug a scrub.. will run bike a bit and check it later.

[NinjaNanna]

in that case pull the radiator guard off. 4 bolts right and if nothing else you'll eliminate another easy to check for cause.

[scumdog]

Looking again at your pics - that new radiator guard would be blocking a lot of airflow. It could definately account for both the hot running and the fact that your fan is running when you don't think it should be.

I concur.

Measure the amount of surface area blocked off by the guard and see how much radiator is actually exposed and doing the work.

I thought that when I first saw the pic of that guard...

[The Lone Rider]

Took bike about 40 mins north, going through various types of speeds but no bumper to bumper traffic.

Did not seem to be heating up to much, and no radiator fan going. Was quite a cold day though.

Will moniter it further, and if happens again I'll remove the cover and test.

If that is the problem, I'll have the slots in the cover milled longer and larger. Should fix the problem.



Not riding it this week though as I have blown a fuse in the headlight circuit. Need to see where the short is (and buy more fuses).

[The Lone Rider]

Got headlight sorted, and hopefully that lasts.

Looks like the earth in the headlight came loose and sparked across the rest. Had three wires melted together and a slightly warmed headlight cup.

Think I'm gonna have to try and find another headlight soon.

[The Lone Rider]

Since the 2nd petrol tank full... doesnt appear to be overheating anymore. And weather hasn't been as cold as those days it had been. Same route of riding as well.

[ducatilover]

Good to hear. How's it riding? I've always been interested in those V4 cruisers

[The Lone Rider]

Good to hear. How's it riding? I've always been interested in those V4 cruisers

Couldn't comment too much I guess. If my arm was the same as last year, I could give a more fair appraisal.

I know of two people who have ridden it and Harleys, and say it's much quicker.


Me personally, I find the bars are much more input sensitive. But then again, not long before the bang up I had done the fork seals and put the next grade up of oil, so that stiffened it up.

Also, I'm finding the rear drifts to the left a bit?

It's hard to tell if it's my dodgey right arm.

As far as rear drift, could be my arm, quake city roads, the road camber, or I guess rear wheel alignment. Be good to get a 2nd opinion.

Maybe Willy would like to drop by again and take it for a punt.

[ducatilover]

If I was nearer I'd offer to take it for a tootle (V4 noise!) :drool:

[Drew]

If I was nearer I'd offer to take it for a tootle (V4 noise!) :drool:

Yaughta hear them with a pair of buggered Yoshi megaphones. My VF750f had fuck all going for it, except the noise at 11000RPM

[The Lone Rider]

Yaughta hear them with a pair of buggered Yoshi megaphones. My VF750f had fuck all going for it, except the noise at 11000RPM

The C versions are geared lower. More torque, less HP.

Still... about the only cruiser you'll see that redlines at 10,000

[Drew]

The C versions are geared lower. More torque, less HP.

Still... about the only cruiser you'll see that redlines at 10,000

Easily fixed methinks.

[The Lone Rider]

Whatdya reckon?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/wheels/auction-504758493.htm


Just trying to find little bits and pieces of niceties to go on it now, though I still got a bit of tweakage for the quality of ride.

And still have a new brake linkage on the drawing board. And maybe a bit more chroming if I can stand being without my bike for weeks on end again.

[ducatilover]

Pretty nifty valve caps, I love details!

[The Lone Rider]

I is sad.

Went out to watch a movie at a friends, and half way there the bike suddenly had a very loud rattle inside it. Loud enough to hear over the exhaust!

Nipped the clutch in, as my instant thought was the clutch was about to go.

Nope... carried onto mates place, rattling away like crazy.

Thought maybe a bit of a sit and it'll go away.

One movie later.. fuckin bike rattling internally like crazy still.

Fuck it.



Now to figure out what the fuck is wrong. :brick:

[The Lone Rider]

The internet is a great thing...

A bit of research and sounds as if it's a cam chain tensioner.

Fingers crossed...

[ducatilover]

Are they a simple spring loaded tensioner? Would be easy as to check if it is.
Hondas are incredible at shitting tensioners.

[The Lone Rider]

I dunno...

I've looked in the service manual and the tensioner is on the outside of each horizontal pair, and looks a little bit like one of those electronic thermometers you give kids. Has two bolts each side, and one on the top down the middle, and a gasket.

Part number 6 & 7 in this

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/HONDA/1994/Motorcycles/MZ54E0400.gif


Though I look at it now.. the service manual calls those the tensioners. The parts fiche calls them the lifters and 4 & 5 are the lifters.


I'm guessing parts 6 & 7 must have a spring in it, that pushes down on parts 4 & 5?


I haven't had a look at the bike really.. I'm unprepared as I have my bike lift in pieces to modify it to take longer & heavier bikes.

[scumdog]

Ah the delights of overhead cams...

I think you're onto it re the tensioners - I don't know about Hondas version but some I've seen have hydraulicly adjusted tensioners fed off oil-pressure.

Otherwise yeah, a coil spring inside those gizmos.

[The Lone Rider]

Ah the delights of overhead cams...

I think you're onto it re the tensioners - I don't know about Hondas version but some I've seen have hydraulicly adjusted tensioners fed off oil-pressure.

Otherwise yeah, a coil spring inside those gizmos.

Why? What do Harleys have? I've only ever worked on Japanese bikes - they seem fairly fluid to work on, for the most part. Especially if you can sucker someone into helping to hold things while you dismantle.

[Drew]

parts 4 and 5 are the tensioners, but 6 and 7 are the bits that will have let go should that be the problem. They come out easy, and you'll be able to tell straight away if one is buggered.

[Drew]

Why? What do Harleys have? I've only ever worked on Japanese bikes - they seem fairly fluid to work on, for the most part. Especially if you can sucker someone into helping to hold things while you dismantle.
Harley's have push rods. It is a SHIT system, stick with the jappa.

[scumdog]

Harley's have push rods. It is a SHIT system, stick with the jappa.

With hydraulic lifters (think of them as a form of tensioner).

The last Harley I had to adjust them on was my '81 Sporty, it had solid lifters, easy-as to adjust too.

Shit system? - maybe to you but to me their lack of need of maintanance suits me just fine.:yes:

[Drew]

With hydraulic lifters (think of them as a form of tensioner).

The last Harley I had to adjust them on was my '81 Sporty, it had solid lifters, easy-as to adjust too.

Shit system? - maybe to you but to me their lack of need of maintanance suits me just fine.:yes:

I only said it to get you to bite, but I have remembered you only wind up, instead of getting wound up.

Push rods work fine, as long as revs aren't the goal.

And roller rockers are roller rockers, the adjustment is the same essentially for OHC and push rods.

[The Lone Rider]

Ah yeah I'm familiar with push rods, just thought there might be more to it.

I thought factory Harleys had solid and non-adjustable push rods? And if you change the tappets, you need to put in adjustable push rods.

Anyway, new tensioner is about $75 plus GST... and a 2-3 week wait :crybaby:

And I can't get in to pay for it until Wednesday, and have to pay for it before it gets ordered.


There goes my trip to Omaru. Hoping I can still get it to a bike show 2 weeks into Sep though.

[Drew]

Ah yeah I'm familiar with push rods, just thought there might be more to it.

I thought factory Harleys had solid and non-adjustable push rods? And if you change the tappets, you need to put in adjustable push rods.

Anyway, new tensioner is about $75 plus GST... and a 2-3 week wait :crybaby:

And I can't get in to pay for it until Wednesday, and have to pay for it before it gets ordered.


There goes my trip to Omaru. Hoping I can still get it to a bike show 2 weeks into Sep though.
You have made sure, that the tensioners are the actual problem aye?

I ask, because on my old VF a noise very akin to a noisy tapit was actually a loose cam sproket. Imagine how much fun I had once those little bolts came out.

[ducatilover]

Shit system? - maybe to you but to me their lack of need of maintanance suits me just fine.:yes:

Push-rod flex sucks, that's why they went to the twin cams. :facepalm:


Parts 6/7 are the bits you're wanting to remove

Remove the valve cover and check the chains, if loose do this:
If not, I just wrote all this for nothing
Undo the central bolt first (carefully, there's a spring in there)
Then the two outer bolts.
Take note of how everything goes
Pull the spring out
Clean everything
Check both springs side by side
Clean everything again
Make sure the little pokey-outey (very technical terms) bits are able to push out, if ratcheting type, make sure they're not retracting


Once you clean everything a third time, re-install them with the two outer bolts, put teh spring in, tighten the central bolt over the srping.
Once that's done, wind the motor over by hand a few times (three should do it) to make sure they're working

Check tension on the chains

[scumdog]

Push-rod flex sucks, that's why they went to the twin cams. :facepalm:


Sure it might suck for some - but as I'm pootling along at under 3,000rpm most of the time I doubt it's a problem to me...:laugh:

[DEATH_INC.]

There goes my trip to Omaru.
Bonus!
Those tensioners suck don't they......

[The Lone Rider]

Push-rod flex sucks, that's why they went to the twin cams. :facepalm:


Parts 6/7 are the bits you're wanting to remove

Remove the valve cover and check the chains, if loose do this:
If not, I just wrote all this for nothing
Undo the central bolt first (carefully, there's a spring in there)
Then the two outer bolts.
Take note of how everything goes
Pull the spring out
Clean everything
Check both springs side by side
Clean everything again
Make sure the little pokey-outey (very technical terms) bits are able to push out, if ratcheting type, make sure they're not retracting


Once you clean everything a third time, re-install them with the two outer bolts, put teh spring in, tighten the central bolt over the srping.
Once that's done, wind the motor over by hand a few times (three should do it) to make sure they're working

Check tension on the chains

June 2008 - had new cam chain put in. Most likely be the tensioner.

[ducatilover]

Sure it might suck for some - but as I'm pootling along at under 3,000rpm most of the time I doubt it's a problem to me...:laugh:

3000rpm? I don't have a tach on either bike...
Anyway, everyone knows you need 200hp or the latest supersport, otherwise you're just a try hard wanker who doesn't know fuck about shit. :shifty:

[scumdog]

Anyway, everyone knows you need 200hp or the latest supersport, otherwise you're just a try hard wanker who doesn't know fuck about shit. :shifty:

Well having only 65hp at least now I know what sort of street-cred I have!:pinch::msn-wink:

[The Lone Rider]

Well having only 65hp at least now I know what sort of street-cred I have!:pinch::msn-wink:

83hp here... once I get this rattle buttoned down.

[ducatilover]

Well having only 65hp at least now I know what sort of street-cred I have!:pinch::msn-wink:


83hp here... once I get this rattle buttoned down.

My fun bike has 22+/- a few :sunny: and it fookin' rocks.

[actungbaby]

My fun bike has 22+/- a few :sunny: and it fookin' rocks.

hehe my fun xl 100k2 probley has like 8 hp hasint gone in years but was cool need get suspension fixed

Love thos little honda singles there just fun , esp around the port hills dont even need brakes just use gears hehe

Ive owned since 1984 ish

[The Lone Rider]

Happy to announce that the bike is now repaired.

Spring inside tensioner had snapped right at the very end. Bent the last loop on the coil into shape, reinstalled.

Works fine now.

Will order another tensioner should the repair cause a problem or not last.


Engine has zero noise now - all exhaust note baby.

[cynna]

There goes my trip to Omaru. Hoping I can still get it to a bike show 2 weeks into Sep though.

is that the sturgis club bike show?

[blackdog]

This thread needs moar pictures.

[The Lone Rider]

Easy to see the little bit that had broken.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/386008_10151117871780256_980162580_n.jpg

[ducatilover]

:Punk: winning

[The Lone Rider]

New chromed horn, relocated to side of the engine

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/554631_323425404420118_904093553_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/548050_323425387753453_232985421_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

Re: bleeding coolant

Someone else mentioned bleeding the coolant pump. I take it that it's a matter of popping the radiator cap, then cracking the bleed bolt on the pump until I get coolant through? The idea being, to remove any air pockets in the system?



Also, anyone in Canterbury - I could really use some help sorting my brakes on both bikes. I'm not happy with them and someone with more experience might be able to fill & bleed better. Had a play with this bikes yesterday, and now the lever is bottoming before the pads fully lock the front wheel up.

[Drew]

There will be a small bolt in the top of the pump, undo it and air then water will come out. Once water has come out. Bled!

[The Lone Rider]

There will be a small bolt in the top of the pump, undo it and air then water will come out. Once water has come out. Bled!

Pump is located on side of engine near the front drive sprocket. Bleed bolt is more on the side then the top

Part 15 bleed bolt

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/HONDA/1994/Motorcycles/MZ54E0900.gif

[NinjaNanna]

I think that's the drain plug. Either way no point messing about crack it a little wait til water weeps out then nip it up tight again. Done

[The Lone Rider]

That 100% is the drain plug, I've already drained the old stuff from there.

Not to mention the service manual say it is.


It just didn't say anything about filling it back up or getting rid of air pockets.

[ducatilover]

I don't think it has a pump bleed by the look of that diagram

As for the brakes, bleed them by starting at the banjo bolts, mastercyl, line splitter, calipers then bleed the calipers themselves.
You may need to check the level in the MC isn't on the piss as that'll cause air locks in the master.
Then take the calipers off and move them around a bit incase it has silly little air pockets floating around.

[theforeman]

last time i had to bleed my brakes the same thing happened after about an hour or so of swearing i grabed a syringe and some hose filled the syringe with fluid put the hose on the bleed nipple and slowly forced it in from the bottom, pushed all the air out the master cylinder easy as, less than 5 mins and almost no mess

[The Lone Rider]

last time i had to bleed my brakes the same thing happened after about an hour or so of swearing i grabed a syringe and some hose filled the syringe with fluid put the hose on the bleed nipple and slowly forced it in from the bottom, pushed all the air out the master cylinder easy as, less than 5 mins and almost no mess


Might be worth a try except a syringe is not something I stock, and the caliper is on the left and master on the top right end of a set of western bars.

I have a friend coming Sunday to give the brake bleed a go, but he reckons he won't be able to do any better than I.

[Drew]

Might be worth a try except a syringe is not something I stock, and the caliper is on the left and master on the top right end of a set of western bars.

I have a friend coming Sunday to give the brake bleed a go, but he reckons he won't be able to do any better than I.
Put the brake master cylinder level. I mean level! You will have to take it off the bars to do this.

Right, now I wnat you to lift the outside end of the lever ten milimetres.

Give it ten seconds, then pull the lever in a LITTLE bit.

Repeat!

You will get bubbles in the reseviour if there is air in the system. It might take a minute.

Have a look at the master cylinder. Think about how a round piston going down a shaft might make fluid travel. The piston is a shaft with several groves in it. So there is more than one spot for air to hide.

I will draw a diagram in paint tomorrow.

[The Lone Rider]

Local dealer suggested I check pads and disc for glazing and give them a scuff. Will do once I am not on parental duties.

[The Lone Rider]

See The Little Rosa and Resurrection in person this coming Saturday September 15th, at The Black Horse Hotel - 33 Lincoln Road. $5 entry and make sure you vote!

[The Lone Rider]

Still having trouble with the brakes. Was absolutely ass heading to the other side of the island.

Got a new bleed nipple and a different brand of brake fluid. I am hoping that makes it work. I've also extended the pistons right out and checked for corrosion and then oiled them with CRC as a friend suggested it might be the piston sticking to the seal.

Nice photo of it before the remake, when the brakes worked.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/75351_462837055185_3186231_n.jpg

[The Lone Rider]

Started doing a rebuild and restoration on this last year as it was getting pretty old and tired.

https://scontent.fakl1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/18077316_1264836956945620_593881397756601861_o.jpg ?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ht=scontent.fakl1-1.fna&oh=d96c79acae28ce9a09991a3e4de0edbb&oe=5C414352

https://scontent.fakl1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18670768_1292553954173920_5742458435428508432_n.jp g?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ht=scontent.fakl1-1.fna&oh=fa2f98c3ec763e831d9d05edd0896350&oe=5C4AFC01

https://scontent.fakl1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/18768333_1297728666989782_4287660250639851024_o.jp g?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent.fakl1-1.fna&oh=fc129948221c4dfaf02914fc3c34a6e5&oe=5C892E37

[scumdog]

Need to get to the test ride comments!


But keep us posted on anything.....:headbang:

[The Lone Rider]

https://scontent.fakl1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/18922768_1301286836633965_6378662227050381294_o.jp g?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent.fakl1-1.fna&oh=39433b6328ac3dd1a8c7c6dbe89b2d3b&oe=5C4B34E0

https://scontent.fakl1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/18879906_1301839449912037_3803162322120466200_o.jp g?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent.fakl1-2.fna&oh=b88ffded9d2ed3c6b79c1ed425068b7b&oe=5C7488F7

https://scontent.fakl1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19488567_1323958181033497_7621474903288104512_o.jp g?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fakl1-1.fna&oh=9637769400d2fe25eea0ac07f858542f&oe=5C4077B5