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View Full Version : Ideas wanted for raising the bars on my GPZ



nzspokes
16th April 2012, 21:48
Im after ideas for raising the bars on my GPZ, 20 to 30mm would be great.

Ive seen riser blocks on US websites but none for a GPZ, pic below. Any other ideas?

Madness
16th April 2012, 21:49
Any other ideas?

Bigger bike?

nzspokes
16th April 2012, 21:58
Well this one goes fast enough for me so im gunna stick with it.

Winston001
16th April 2012, 22:07
Yeah, know what you mean. I wanted adjustable risers on my ST4 which were available from the USA for $US350. Actually they were bars and risers, both adjustable and good value at the price. Three different planes to play with. Helibars.

In the end I bought some long bolts, made some shims (basically thick washers), and experimented. Ended up lowering the foot pegs slightly, lifted the bars back a few mm with a washer cut in half, and was happy. The result was only a few mm from standard and maybe I'd become comfortable on the bike so it wasn't a big adjustment.

But fun to try. Enjoy.

nzspokes
16th April 2012, 22:14
I cant just buy a riser block as they dont make any I can find. To old I guess. Washers wont work sadly.

spanner spinner
19th April 2012, 21:52
Do you have a tame engineer friend that will work for beer, a couple of riser blocks similar to ones you have pictured will be the best way to achive what you want to do. They will be easily cut out with a mill or cnc machine the cost of the alloy will be cheep the hourly charge out will be what will cost you hence finding a tame engineer. Maybe some kiwibiker can do them for you at a good price. Also worth checking out if any other kawasaki handlebars will fit that are higher, I put vfr800 bars on my blackbird to achive what you are trying to do and they where a straight bolt on option.

nzspokes
19th April 2012, 22:01
Im looking at doing just that. But have found over the last few days im getting more used to it. Ive also changed the pegs to billet ones which have let me shuffle a little forward on the bike so my backs straighter. Seems odd but that few mm back on the pegs has made a big difference.

Going to do a big ride over the weekend to see how I get on.

Mind you Ive got plans for my fork which means it may sit higher in its stroke which will help to.

bogan
19th April 2012, 22:02
How sure are you that this will fix the problem? Ergonomics are often a combination of factors, changing only the one may make the others worse.

It also looks like some risers for that would need to be a two sided milling operation, twice the job for any tame engineers you might find...

nzspokes
19th April 2012, 22:06
How sure are you that this will fix the problem? Ergonomics are often a combination of factors, changing only the one may make the others worse.

It also looks like some risers for that would need to be a two sided milling operation, twice the job for any tame engineers you might find...

Nah, that photo is from a different model. It would just be making the shape then boring 3 holes, one big one and 2 smaller.

bogan
19th April 2012, 22:10
Nah, that photo is from a different model. It would just be making the shape then boring 3 holes, one big one and 2 smaller.

the top bit would still need a fork sized 'peg' to go into it for rigidity though right? or does the fork go right through? In either case, I'll hopefully have the spindle sorted on my CNC in a few weeks, and will probably be able to do this sort of job soon (finger crossed).

nzspokes
19th April 2012, 22:20
the top bit would still need a fork sized 'peg' to go into it for rigidity though right? or does the fork go right through? In either case, I'll hopefully have the spindle sorted on my CNC in a few weeks, and will probably be able to do this sort of job soon (finger crossed).

I was just going to grab some steel/alloy tube for that same size as the fork tube.

You think you can make this?

bogan
19th April 2012, 22:25
I was just going to grab some steel/alloy tube for that same size as the fork tube.

You think you can make this?

yeh, that would work.

I can't make very much (innacurate wood cutting so far) without the spindle upgrade, so no promises, but I certainly hope so!

carburator
19th April 2012, 22:27
had a look at gpz1000 bars not long ago, the tip of the forks sit in a recess in the handles and two capscrews underneath
the bungs secure it to the upper triple tree..

you would have to mimic that in a block of alloy ( not hard to do in a lathe ) infact
anyone with a lathe and drill press could knock out what you need or you could just
do it in bar and have it spigoted and the capscrews on extended posts ( be different )

or option D and yes Ive seen this done is push the forks through the triple tree have a
spacer machined sleve over the fork for the height required and the capcrews on spuds
( tube spacers ) ( though the person in question had used plastic tubing for spacers )

nzspokes
19th April 2012, 22:30
yeh, that would work.

I can't make very much (innacurate wood cutting so far) without the spindle upgrade, so no promises, but I certainly hope so!

Have you worked out what that plate is for?

bogan
20th April 2012, 09:11
Have you worked out what that plate is for?

Can't think of anything requiring a half depth pocket...

nzspokes
20th April 2012, 09:27
Can't think of anything requiring a half depth pocket...

Its to remove the anti dive unit on the forks. It still needs flow to funtion.

bogan
20th April 2012, 10:50
Its to remove the anti dive unit on the forks. It still needs flow to funtion.

Two questions, will the pocket seal properly? I would have thought they would have two o rings just aorund the ports (like on calipers) as stock, wheras your design requires one big one to go around the pocket.

And is there no restriction in the anti-dive unit? I would have though the brake controlled unit would provide a varied level of compression damping in proportion to the level of braking.

Then again, I've never owned or ridden a bike with anti-dive, and suspension isn't one of my best bike subjects as it is!

nzspokes
20th April 2012, 11:46
Two questions, will the pocket seal properly? I would have thought they would have two o rings just aorund the ports (like on calipers) as stock, wheras your design requires one big one to go around the pocket.

And is there no restriction in the anti-dive unit? I would have though the brake controlled unit would provide a varied level of compression damping in proportion to the level of braking.

Then again, I've never owned or ridden a bike with anti-dive, and suspension isn't one of my best bike subjects as it is!

The plate is a design thats in common use. I believe the o rings groves are in the fork. I did have ideas of making that adjustable somehow so i can adjust compression. But will be getting Progressive springs and running 15w oil.

The anti dive units always siezed. Like mine has. Im thinking of just pulling the unit off and seeing If I can just remove some guts to get rid of the antidive and putting it back on.

bogan
20th April 2012, 13:06
The plate is a design thats in common use. I believe the o rings groves are in the fork. I did have ideas of making that adjustable somehow so i can adjust compression. But will be getting Progressive springs and running 15w oil.

The anti dive units always siezed. Like mine has. Im thinking of just pulling the unit off and seeing If I can just remove some guts to get rid of the antidive and putting it back on.

Yeh the grooves will be in the fork, but the pocket spans both, so there will be some area without a rubber seal right?

Thats similar to what I usually hear about them, they seize up, and give rubbish brake feel. If you just disconnect the brake line from it, that will stop the anti-dive from working won't it?

nzspokes
20th April 2012, 13:50
Yeh the grooves will be in the fork, but the pocket spans both, so there will be some area without a rubber seal right?

Thats similar to what I usually hear about them, they seize up, and give rubbish brake feel. If you just disconnect the brake line from it, that will stop the anti-dive from working won't it?

They are electric on my bike. it depends where the unit has siezed on. it may be restricting flow now.

nzspokes
20th April 2012, 22:32
Hmmm, the more I think about it I wonder if I can just take the electrical guts out of the escs anti dive unit. It has some now unwanted relays etc as well which can go. I think I will change the oil in the forks tomorrow and pull it apart to see whats in there. If it looks how I think it will I may not need the plate thing. But ive ordered the new springs,e-bays a great thing.