Drz400

[Andy67]

Hi. All, early days and I like what I am reading but don't really have a clue about adventure riding and available bikes.

I have ridden exclusively on the road for 20 years and I am thinking that I am missing out on some pretty cool stuff, soooooo I'm in nvstigation mode.....Early stages.

I've looked at a few bikes on the web and the DRZ400 seems pretty consistent with respect to off road and getting there and back type rides. They also seem pretty good value.

What do peoples reckon, is it better than its big brother or are here other and better choices out there?

Thanks in advance

[Oscar]

Hi. All, early days and I like what I am reading but don't really have a clue about adventure riding and available bikes.

I have ridden exclusively on the road for 20 years and I am thinking that I am missing out on some pretty cool stuff, soooooo I'm in nvstigation mode.....Early stages.

I've looked at a few bikes on the web and the DRZ400 seems pretty consistent with respect to off road and getting there and back type rides. They also seem pretty good value.

What do peoples reckon, is it better than its big brother or are here other and better choices out there?

Thanks in advance

It's much better off road than the DR650.
With external gear changes, a bigger tank and a sheepskin over what they laughingly refer to as a seat, it's not a bad road bike. I really liked mine.

http://oscar.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/FNAR/Ricky-Wheelie/1537752_R7riK-M.jpg

[Andy67]

Cheers Oscar, mint shot mate, that's what I want to do !

[Crim]

From all accounts a very good steed, some light reading for you........................

http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=784942

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779780

enjoy!

[dino3310]

The DRZ is a fantastic steed, a couple years ago there was just the odd one out on our rides well mainly just 1(mxnut) and the ride we had over the weekend i think there was 4 or 5 and they ate gravel roads and when we got to the 42nd traverse they were gone:chase: at open road legal speeds there sweet as with enough revs left to over take, they seem to be flavour of the month at the moment. but like oscar said a sheep skin over the 4x2 would go a long way for comfort.
if my budget was a little better i'd pick one up

[Andy67]

From all accounts a very good steed, some light reading for you........................

http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=784942

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779780

enjoy!

Champion, thanks mate.

[Andy67]

The DRZ is a fantastic steed, a couple years ago there was just the odd one out on our rides well mainly just 1(mxnut) and the ride we had over the weekend i think there was 4 or 5 and they ate gravel roads and when we got to the 42nd traverse they were gone:chase: at open road legal speeds there sweet as with enough revs left to over take, they seem to be flavour of the month at the moment. but like oscar said a sheep skin over the 4x2 would go a long way for comfort.
if my budget was a little better i'd pick one up

Cheers Dino, it's all sounding very positive.

[bart]

I had a DRZ, but I actually find the DR650 better for the riding I do. More planted on the gravel, much better when slabbing it on the road, bit heavy for the knarly stuff, but that's probably only about 5% of what I do.

If it's more trail riding, the DRZ any day.

my 2c

[dmoo1790]

DRZ is better for really tricky off road stuff. Otherwise the DR650 is better for all roads. Also DRZ seat height is way taller which might be an issue. I also found the DRZ tiring on road because it has to rev pretty high at motorway speeds. DR is much more relaxed. Lots of other small diffs which may or may not matter to you, e.g., 95 fuel for DRZ vs 91 for DR. If money is no object consider the KTM 690 which is only ~8 kg heavier than the DRZ.

[Eddieb]

95 fuel for DRZ vs 91 for DR.

In my experience running 91 in a DR650 is a false economy, though there's not much in it. For the $1 more it costs to fill my 18l IMS tank with 95 I get more than $1 worth of extra mileage due to better fuel economy.

[Oscar]

I had a DRZ, but I actually find the DR650 better for the riding I do. More planted on the gravel, much better when slabbing it on the road, bit heavy for the knarly stuff, but that's probably only about 5% of what I do.

If it's more trail riding, the DRZ any day.

my 2c

My DRZ was spectacular in the gravel.
The only bikes I owned that were faster in the gravel was my 640E and 625SXC, but they required a lot more muscle and concentration and things could go wrong very fast...

[Ender EnZed]

In my experience running 91 in a DR650 is a false economy, though there's not much in it. For the $1 more it costs to fill my 18l IMS tank with 95 I get more than $1 worth of extra mileage due to better fuel economy.

Interesting, I can go further on a tank of 91 than 95. Does your DR have an aftermarket pipe/jetting etc that affects the fuel it likes or has it always preferred 95?

[dmoo1790]

In my experience running 91 in a DR650 is a false economy, though there's not much in it. For the $1 more it costs to fill my 18l IMS tank with 95 I get more than $1 worth of extra mileage due to better fuel economy.

Yeah but what I was thinking is the DRZ needs high octane with it's 11 or 12 to 1 compression ratio. On the DR you have no worries with 91 if that's all you can get at some out of the way spot. 95 is available nearly everywhere but not quite. Big tank helps I suppose.

[Andy67]

Awesome information thanks all. If I understand correctly the DRZ is easier to manage off road than the DR but that makes for a less capable road bike.

I need to think about what sort of riding I will be doing. Soooooo with that in mind, I am based in Auckland so would probably ride fairly close to home for the most part, probably do Coromandel and the Waikato mainly. Cold easily get as far as Taranaki and once in a blue moon maybe south island.

I will always have a road bike so I can get that touring buzz. Is the DRZ ok for what I want?

Also, their seems to be a few models around, mortard etc. should I be looking at any particular version, are their any weak model years to avoid and finally, what should I look at paying in the current market and what if any upgrades from standard wold make this a better bike for what I want?

Btw I would stand 6ft2 in boots (6ft 6 in stllettos :blink:)90kg, reasonably fit, would the 600 be considered hard to manage for someone of my size?

Any and all responses greatly appreciated.

[Andy67]

I also found the DRZ tiring on road because it has to rev pretty high at motorway speeds. DR is much more relaxed. Lots of other small diffs which may or may not matter to you, Z.

Cool mate, I've read about this too, my concern is not so much fatigue but will the bike take the open road in its stride or is it really bad...? What sort of distances before it becomes a pain?

Cheers Andy

[Ender EnZed]

Given that you'll still have the big Beemer for road riding I'd suggest a DRZ would probably suit you better. When you get to trickier off road stuff you'll be wishing you had a lighter bike more than you'll regret its shortcomings on road.

The DRZ400 comes in E, S, and SM models. The SM is the motard, a bit pointless when you're looking for an adventure bike. The E and S have been around longer but there are far more E models. The S is supposedly more road oriented (though not a motard) but the important differences are it has more weight and less power. I forget what any advantages are but you probably want the E, which most of them are.

Upgrades that I'd consider near essential for getting the best from it would be a bigger tank, lever guards and some sort of carrying system (if you can tie bags on fine then you don't really need a rack). You'll get by without a sump guard until you need one, then you're fucked.

Here's what's probably the most awesome DRZ400 in the country. (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php)

[Andy67]

Given that you'll still have the big Beemer for road riding I'd suggest a DRZ would probably suit you better. When you get to trickier off road stuff you'll be wishing you had a lighter bike more than you'll regret its shortcomings on road.

The DRZ400 comes in E, S, and SM models. The SM is the motard, a bit pointless when you're looking for an adventure bike. The E and S have been around longer but there are far more E models. The S is supposedly more road oriented (though not a motard) but the important differences are it has more weight and less power. I forget what any advantages are but you probably want the E, which most of them are.

Upgrades that I'd consider near essential for getting the best from it would be a bigger tank, lever guards and some sort of carrying system (if you can tie bags on fine then you don't really need a rack). You'll get by without a sump guard until you need one, then you're fucked.

Here's what's probably the most awesome DRZ400 in the country. (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php)

Fantastic advice mate and that's where my thinking is too re road vs trail. I'm fairly hardy road guy and don't mind a bit of discomfort provided the bike doesn't either by ringing it for extended periods....if need be....but....I am virtually a noob given I haven't ridden off road for decades, pretty much starting from scratch I guess tho i did own a procession of chook chasers in my late teens including a XR500 and then its bigger brother 600 until it got stolled of me.

So thinking off road capabilities are more important to me cause that's the whole point for me, to get off road then have fun. The Beemer gives me all the on road smiles I need.

Cool guys, I like you adventure types, less b.s it wold seem over this side.

Andy

[Andy67]

Given that you'll still have the big Beemer for road riding I'd suggest a DRZ would probably suit you better. When you get to trickier off road stuff you'll be wishing you had a lighter bike more than you'll regret its shortcomings on road.

The DRZ400 comes in E, S, and SM models. The SM is the motard, a bit pointless when you're looking for an adventure bike. The E and S have been around longer but there are far more E models. The S is supposedly more road oriented (though not a motard) but the important differences are it has more weight and less power. I forget what any advantages are but you probably want the E, which most of them are.

Upgrades that I'd consider near essential for getting the best from it would be a bigger tank, lever guards and some sort of carrying system (if you can tie bags on fine then you don't really need a rack). You'll get by without a sump guard until you need one, then you're fucked.

Here's what's probably the most awesome DRZ400 in the country. (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php)

Fantastic advice mate and that's where my thinking is too re road vs trail. I'm fairly hardy road guy and don't mind a bit of discomfort provided the bike doesn't either by ringing it for extended periods....if need be....but....I am virtually a noob given I haven't ridden off road for decades, pretty much starting from scratch I guess tho i did own a procession of chook chasers in my late teens including a XR500 and then its bigger brother 600 until it got stolled off me.

So thinking off road capabilities are more important to me cause that's the whole point for me, to get off road then have fun. The Beemer gives me all the on road smiles I need.

Cool guys, I like you adventure types, less b.s it wold seem over this side.

Andy

[Andy67]

Given that you'll still have the big Beemer for road riding I'd suggest a DRZ would probably suit you better. When you get to trickier off road stuff you'll be wishing you had a lighter bike more than you'll regret its shortcomings on road.

The DRZ400 comes in E, S, and SM models. The SM is the motard, a bit pointless when you're looking for an adventure bike. The E and S have been around longer but there are far more E models. The S is supposedly more road oriented (though not a motard) but the important differences are it has more weight and less power. I forget what any advantages are but you probably want the E, which most of them are.

Upgrades that I'd consider near essential for getting the best from it would be a bigger tank, lever guards and some sort of carrying system (if you can tie bags on fine then you don't really need a rack). You'll get by without a sump guard until you need one, then you're fucked.

Here's what's probably the most awesome DRZ400 in the country. (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php)


Given that you'll still have the big Beemer for road riding I'd suggest a DRZ would probably suit you better. When you get to trickier off road stuff you'll be wishing you had a lighter bike more than you'll regret its shortcomings on road.

The DRZ400 comes in E, S, and SM models. The SM is the motard, a bit pointless when you're looking for an adventure bike. The E and S have been around longer but there are far more E models. The S is supposedly more road oriented (though not a motard) but the important differences are it has more weight and less power. I forget what any advantages are but you probably want the E, which most of them are.

Upgrades that I'd consider near essential for getting the best from it would be a bigger tank, lever guards and some sort of carrying system (if you can tie bags on fine then you don't really need a rack). You'll get by without a sump guard until you need one, then you're fucked.

Here's what's probably the most awesome DRZ400 in the country. (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php)

Fantastic advice mate and that's where my thinking is too re road vs trail. I'm fairly hardy road guy and don't mind a bit of discomfort provided the bike doesn't either by ringing it for extended periods....if need be....but....I am virtually a noob given I haven't ridden off road for decades, pretty much starting from scratch I guess tho i did own a procession of chook chasers in my late teens including a XR500 and then its bigger brother 600 until it got stolled off me.

So thinking off road capabilities are more important to me cause that's the whole point for me, to get off road then have fun. The Beemer gives me all the on road smiles I need.

Cool guys, I like you adventure types, less b.s it wold seem over this side.

Andy

[Andy67]

Apologies for the multi multi posting debacle above, iPad have brain freeze, maybe mod would care to delete the second one and this for that matter ....

[bart]

Apologies for the multi multi posting debacle above, iPad have brain freeze, maybe mod would care to delete the second one and this for that matter ....

Man, that's one mean stutter. :shutup:

Biggest issue I had with the DRZ was the close ratio gearbox. I tried all sorts of sprockets and was never happy. If trailering to a trail ride or offroad area, brilliant bike. If riding anything over 100km to get there, suck.

You can carry multiple front sprockets and change them out when you get there, but who can be f'd with that.

[Woodman]

Get a KLR ..........











Someone had to say it.

[Ender EnZed]

Or you could just put knoblies on your K1200. :sunny:

[Andy67]

Get a KLR ..........











Someone had to say it.

Must admit was influenced a little by big Dave review of his kwaka, plead you case mate, why cause I'm here to learn.

Cheers Andy

[Ocean1]

Also, their seems to be a few models around, mortard etc. should I be looking at any particular version, are their any weak model years to avoid and finally, what should I look at paying in the current market and what if any upgrades from standard wold make this a better bike for what I want?.

Based on your intended use I'd go for one of the road legal E models. Some early machines didn't have the electric leg, don't buy one of them if you plan on stalling on cliff faces much.

I had a green one, (Kawasaki KLX400, same machine, Kawasaki engine / Suzuki frame) and it did well, accepting the slight niggle re the close ratio box. Just meant a choice between touring/adv riding gearing or straight trail riding gearing.

You can get almost every farkle you can imagine for them.

[Andy67]

Or you could just put knoblies on your K1200. :sunny:

I did the forgotten highway not that long ago and it's a modest stretch....the K did it easy and is not actually that bad on gravel....to a point...love the way you think mate, she would be a handful for sure....actually now I think about it, but for ground clearance she is possible better behaved than her GS cousin on marbles...weird aye

[Padmei]

I've got a DRZ well it's a KLX400 - kawasaki & the ghey brand got together & made the same bike in different colours.

1. See if you can borrow one to ride. They are buzzy on the open road. If they came out with a 6th speed they would prob be the most popular bike made. I can't stand the thought of doing long distances on mine however if it was my only bike I would build a bridge.

2. See if there are any for sale around you. I looked for about a year & got a good one for $4k. It would be too much work to road reg an offroad one.

3. The easiest way to see if they're roadworthy is if they've got the 'lunchbox' on the rear guard.

4. You will need case savers -check out Thumpertalk DRZ thread. About $50ish, bash plate $150ish, large tank $5-800 - the stock tank is minimal for anyt type of adv ride (not trailride).

5. Suspension is reasonably soft for us heavyweights but by God they wheelie wheelie real.

[Andy67]

Based on your intended use I'd go for one of the road legal E models. Some early machines didn't have the electric leg, don't buy one of them if you plan on stalling on cliff faces much.

I had a green one, (Kawasaki KLX400, same machine, Kawasaki engine / Suzuki frame) and it did well, accepting the slight niggle re the close ratio box. Just meant a choice between touring/adv riding gearing or straight trail riding gearing.

You can get almost every farkle you can imagine for them.

Cheers Ocean, didn't realise the japs co operated so closely but then again not surprising I guess. Good for parts too.

Close ratio, you mean I have to change gears on these things, crickey thats different !

[Andy67]

I've got a DRZ well it's a KLX400 - kawasaki & the ghey brand got together & made the same bike in different colours.

1. See if you can borrow one to ride. They are buzzy on the open road. If they came out with a 6th speed they would prob be the most popular bike made. I can't stand the thought of doing long distances on mine however if it was my only bike I would build a bridge.

2. See if there are any for sale around you. I looked for about a year & got a good one for $4k. It would be too much work to road reg an offroad one.

3. The easiest way to see if they're roadworthy is if they've got the 'lunchbox' on the rear guard.

4. You will need case savers -check out Thumpertalk DRZ thread. About $50ish, bash plate $150ish, large tank $5-800 - the stock tank is minimal for anyt type of adv ride (not trailride).

5. Suspension is reasonably soft for us heavyweights but by God they wheelie wheelie real.

Cool and yes I think I can build a bridge too but will certainly have to eyeball one up close, goodntomknow the DRZ has an identical twin...

I am still a wee way away from greeting one so time on my side, I am determined to do this and all this feedback is great.

Cheers Andy

[Woodman]

Must admit was influenced a little by big Dave review of his kwaka, plead you case mate, why cause I'm here to learn.

Cheers Andy

Sounds like the DRZ is more for you, the KLR is even more roady than a dr650.

Don't let anyone tell you that you cannot take the 650s in the knarly shit though.

[Andy67]

Sounds like the DRZ is more for you, the KLR is even more roady than a dr650.

Don't let anyone tell you that you cannot take the 650s in the knarly shit though.

Thanks woodman, yes I am more likely to appreciate better off road capabilities and put up with the rest. Still that said, I won't know until I ride a few I guess. Unfortunately I will have some time to consider all of this.....

[Crim]

Thanks woodman, yes I am more likely to appreciate better off road capabilities and put up with the rest. Still that said, I won't know until I ride a few I guess. Unfortunately I will have some time to consider all of this.....

There might be a hire / trail place up there that have them - I know there is one down here in Quakesville that uses them for tours and trail rides ........................................ thought I may as well google for you

http://www.adventureride.co.nz/

seem a bit $$$ but then buying the bike & gear, insurance, running costs and a few sarnies - all adds up I s'pose and might be worth a half day or day if it stops post purchase dissonance (funnily, I have only ever heard of this happening with DRs never KLRs)

[Andy67]

There might be a hire / trail place up there that have them - I know there is one down here in Quakesville that uses them for tours and trail rides ........................................ thought I may as well google for you

http://www.adventureride.co.nz/

seem a bit $$$ but then buying the bike & gear, insurance, running costs and a few sarnies - all adds up I s'pose and might be worth a half day or day if it stops post purchase dissonance (funnily, I have only ever heard of this happening with DRs never KLRs)

Tis pricey but I think you maybe onto something..thanks Crim

[NordieBoy]

If money is no object consider the KTM 690 which is only ~8 kg heavier than the DRZ.

And has the turning circle of the Exxon Valdez.

[dino3310]

Fantastic advice mate and that's where my thinking is too re road vs trail. I'm fairly hardy road guy and don't mind a bit of discomfort provided the bike doesn't either by ringing it for extended periods....if need be....but....I am virtually a noob given I haven't ridden off road for decades, pretty much starting from scratch I guess tho i did own a procession of chook chasers in my late teens including a XR500 and then its bigger brother 600 until it got stolled off me.

So thinking off road capabilities are more important to me cause that's the whole point for me, to get off road then have fun. The Beemer gives me all the on road smiles I need.

Cool guys, I like you adventure types, less b.s it wold seem over this side.

Andy

another BRP could meet your requirements:msn-wink:

[Andy67]

another BRP could meet your requirements:msn-wink:

Thanks man they are good bikes alright and I did start out looking at them but I think I need something newer with electric start and nder 600 because of registration costs.

Something like this seems perfect:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-470914413.htm

Cheers Andy

[Andy67]

And has the turning circle of the Exxon Valdez.

Whoah....:eek:

[george formby]

I'm in the same boat, looking at getting a DRZ 400 E in the spring... maybe, possibly.

The idea is to have something more comparable to my girlfriends DT 230 which is hilarious on gravel, twisty tarmac & off road. Not a mile muncher, though. I would get another one but they are like hens teeth.

Am I on the right track here (as it were), a good companion to the wee 2t?

[dmoo1790]

And has the turning circle of the Exxon Valdez.

Yeah. One of several things that annoy me about an $18k (gulp) bike. On the other hand it's a helluva machine in so many other ways. Worth the price? Up to you to decide.

[dmoo1790]

Tried selling my DRZ a few weeks back but no bites. 2010 street legal dirt model done ~5000 km. $5500 no offers. I'm not desperate to sell hence I'm not willing to go lower in price.

[dino3310]

Thanks man they are good bikes alright and I did start out looking at them but I think I need something newer with electric start and nder 600 because of registration costs.

Something like this seems perfect:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-470914413.htm

Cheers Andy

looks a minta Andy
suprising how low the Km's are for a 2004

[dmoo1790]

looks a minta Andy
suprising how low the Km's are for a 2004

Hmm. I'm a bit dubious about the km. Have a look at the wear on the heel plate. Strange for a bike ridden mostly on road. I don't see the aftermarket bash plate in the pics either. Maybe I'm paranoid but I'd have a very close look at this one before buying.

[Ender EnZed]

Something like this seems perfect:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-470914413.htm


Tried selling my DRZ a few weeks back but no bites. 2010 street legal dirt model done ~5000 km. $5500 no offers. I'm not desperate to sell hence I'm not willing to go lower in price.

Does yours have any farkles dmoo1790?

For the same price I'd sacrifice 2000km and go 6 years newer.

[bart]

Thanks man they are good bikes alright and I did start out looking at them but I think I need something newer with electric start and nder 600 because of registration costs.

Something like this seems perfect:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-470914413.htm

Cheers Andy

Lot of coin for the age. You should be able to get one with a blue seat for that.

[dmoo1790]

Does yours have any farkles dmoo1790?

For the same price I'd sacrifice 2000km and go 6 years newer.

Not really. I sold the Safari tank and B&B bash plate separately. Here's the info from last ad on trademe:

3 rear sprockets: 41, 44, 47 teeth
2 front sprockets: 14, 15 teeth
2 rear knobby tyres with plenty of life left in them: Original Bridgestone Gritty ED04 and Michelin Cross AC10
1 very worn Vee Rubber 221 rear tyre
Heavy duty tubes fitted
Spare front and rear tubes
Zeta alloy hand/bar guards
30 mm bar risers
New battery
Clutch and ignition case guards
Home made rear/pannier rack
Manual

[dmoo1790]

Lot of coin for the age. You should be able to get one with a blue seat for that.

Mine has a blue plank, er, seat.

[Andy67]

Mine has a blue plank, er, seat.

Thanks all for advice around pricing etc, very interesting stuff and I agree Dmoo you bike sounds mint. I'd rather have a newer model for sure.

Just on that, there seems to be a lot of older bikes around, how do you decide ie new vs older but low kms etc? Are dirt bikes much different to road in this respect?

[dmoo1790]

Thanks all for advice around pricing etc, very interesting stuff and I agree Dmoo you bike sounds mint. I'd rather have a newer model for sure.

Just on that, there seems to be a lot of older bikes around, how do you decide ie new vs older but low kms etc? Are dirt bikes much different to road in this respect?

Not sure but I think some of the older bikes on trademe are not street legal. Maybe they don't have odos so km is only estimated? (There is one with 999,999 km :) ) Off road bikes are generally lot lower km than road bikes. Adventure bikes somewhere in between. Pure off road bikes will probably have had a hard life but a lot depends on maintenance. Just my $0.02.

[Andy67]

Not sure but I think some of the older bikes on trademe are not street legal. Maybe they don't have odos so km is only estimated? (There is one with 999,999 km :) ) Off road bikes are generally lot lower km than road bikes. Adventure bikes somewhere in between. Pure off road bikes will probably have had a hard life but a lot depends on maintenance. Just my $0.02.

Cheers Dmoo and yes I saw that bike and figured it out, guess hours are more important for off road than odometer and maintenance as you say. When I get close to buying would be good to have someone help me eye ball the bike.

Cheers Andy

[Andy67]

looks a minta Andy
suprising how low the Km's are for a 2004

Yep I reckon it's pretty good too from the pics and description. Plenty of guys buy bikes and don't ride them mate, that's what I look for in my road bikes. Had some great deals over the years.

[dino3310]

quite often you see over priced bikes on there but thats looks a bloody good deal

[JATZ]

DR350 ?















Just putting it out there is all :shutup:

[Andy67]

Hey Jatz I'm still in investigation mode mate so do tell.. What do you like about these bikes and how do they stack up against the 400?

[dino3310]

Hey Jatz I'm still in investigation mode mate so do tell.. What do you like about these bikes and how do they stack up against the 400?

no contest:bleh:

[NordieBoy]

Hey Jatz I'm still in investigation mode mate so do tell.. What do you like about these bikes and how do they stack up against the 400?

The 350 is lighter and already has a big tank.

Comes with spare carb needles...

[Ender EnZed]

The 350 also has a 6th gear which I understand makes them surprisingly good on road for what they are. There aren't usually many (any) of them for sale though. Definitely check one out if you get the chance but there's not much reason to hold out for one if you're happy spending the money on a DRZ400.

[bart]

Yep I reckon it's pretty good too from the pics and description. Plenty of guys buy bikes and don't ride them mate, that's what I look for in my road bikes. Had some great deals over the years.

Sometimes it's not good for a bike to sit unused for too long. Rubber bit perish, bearings get dry and sieze, fuel goes off and turns to varnish etc.

Just putting it out there....

[bart]

Hey Jatz I'm still in investigation mode mate so do tell.. What do you like about these bikes and how do they stack up against the 400?

I've owned most of the DR stable over the years (never had a BIG though). I'd rate the 400 over the 350, but I think the 350 I had was a dud. 350 more comfy, but the 400 has way more power, handling, suspension, and everything else. Plank of a seat though.

[Padmei]

Manual

Duh as if you're gonna find an automatic out there:bleh:

I wouldn't get too fussed on getting a minter if you're going to ride it like a real adv bike. Myself I'd be suspicious of one looking too clean. They're pretty bulletproof things. I haven't heard yet of a common problem like other bikes - apart from the aforementioned plankarse & tinitus.

I personally wouldn't touch anything that is kick start only.

What is your budget?

[Ocean1]

Duh as if you're gonna find an automatic out there:bleh:

I ordered a Rekluse clutch for mine. If it'd actually been delivered I reckon it would've allowed me to run the big front sprocket for everything.

Dude down south fitted a complete wide ratio gearset. The definitive fix for what's otherwise probably the best deal going for it's class, about $1.8k.





My you lot have delicate arses.

[NordieBoy]

The 350 also has a 6th gear which I understand makes them surprisingly good on road for what they are. There aren't usually many (any) of them for sale though. Definitely check one out if you get the chance but there's not much reason to hold out for one if you're happy spending the money on a DRZ400.

I think Jatz was hinting heavily...

[JATZ]

I think Jatz was hinting heavily...

I think mine may be sorta sold, I have a couple of people interested, although it's not sold till I have the folding in my pocket :innocent: and the bike has a new stator on it's way from Japan before it gets sold

I like the 6th gear, air cooled, low maintenance, more comfy seat aspect. Kick start only can be a bastard although they're easy enough to start, better more plush seat. Big tank can be had for less than half a 400 one. And if Austin, Gerald and friends can ride 44000 miles in 440 days on them (Mondo Enduro/Terra Circa) then that's good enough for me.And a better seat too
We've been through a few carb needles on ours, but I think it may be hours of constant throttle that's weakened them. Not a biggie as it takes about 20 mins on the road side to get the carb apart and lift the needle 1 notch, provided you have the right tools :facepalm: They are getting a bit dated now though, but still a good bike if you don't want to spend too much coin

[dino3310]

My you lot have delicate arses.

its just a NADS thing:bleh:

[Andy67]

Duh as if you're gonna find an automatic out there:bleh:

I wouldn't get too fussed on getting a minter if you're going to ride it like a real adv bike. Myself I'd be suspicious of one looking too clean. They're pretty bulletproof things. I haven't heard yet of a common problem like other bikes - apart from the aforementioned plankarse & tinitus.

I personally wouldn't touch anything that is kick start only.

What is your budget?

Hey Padmei,

I am interested in the best bike I can get for the cash, cosmetic is not a problem but cleaner the better, I want to install my own dents.

Good feedback and that's what I am here for. I guess cheaper the better but would probably go around 6k when I am ready

[Andy67]

I've owned most of the DR stable over the years (never had a BIG though). I'd rate the 400 over the 350, but I think the 350 I had was a dud. 350 more comfy, but the 400 has way more power, handling, suspension, and everything else. Plank of a seat though.

Mmmm more power :niceone:

[Andy67]

I think mine may be sorta sold, I have a couple of people interested, although it's not sold till I have the folding in my pocket :innocent: and the bike has a new stator on it's way from Japan before it gets sold

I like the 6th gear, air cooled, low maintenance, more comfy seat aspect. Kick start only can be a bastard although they're easy enough to start, better more plush seat. Big tank can be had for less than half a 400 one. And if Austin, Gerald and friends can ride 44000 miles in 440 days on them (Mondo Enduro/Terra Circa) then that's good enough for me.And a better seat too
We've been through a few carb needles on ours, but I think it may be hours of constant throttle that's weakened them. Not a biggie as it takes about 20 mins on the road side to get the carb apart and lift the needle 1 notch, provided you have the right tools :facepalm: They are getting a bit dated now though, but still a good bike if you don't want to spend too much coin

Thanks Jatz, good info mate

[Andy67]

I think Jatz was hinting heavily...

Hey Nordie, I've seen your posts and vids and you seem to know your arse from your elbow. In my circumstances what would you go for ?

[NordieBoy]

Hey Nordie, I've seen your posts and vids and you seem to know your arse from your elbow. In my circumstances what would you go for ?

My elbow says DRZ/KLX400, my arse says DR350.
Put a tank and seat on the DRZ and it'll work very nicely. More modern suspension and everything else than the DR/TT350's. Just a shame about the gearing.
The DR & TT are much more stylish though.

[JATZ]

My elbow says DRZ/KLX400, my arse says DR350.
Put a tank and seat on the DRZ and it'll work very nicely. More modern suspension and everything else than the DR/TT350's. Just a shame about the gearing.
The DR & TT are much more stylish though.

With your expected budget...DR400 :niceone: and you'd have some left over to fix the seat :headbang:

If you only had half that then the 350

[pete-blen]

This?
only 115kgs/255lbs..
I would be in my shed if I had the spare coin...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-470667236.htm

[MXNUT]

:Offtopic: Sort of off topic here but i have a PDF version of the Clymer DRZ400 workshop manual and i no longer have this bike.

If anyone wants / needs one send me a PM with your email address and i will forward it on to you.:done:

[NordieBoy]

This?
only 115kgs/255lbs..
I would be in my shed if I had the spare coin...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-470667236.htm

That is quite light.

Same as my TT350.

Probably got more than 23hp though...

[Ender EnZed]

This?
only 115kgs/255lbs..
I would be in my shed if I had the spare coin...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-470667236.htm

I'm sure they're awesome fun to ride but the 520 KTMs fall under the category of dirtbikes with service intervals that just seem ridiculous to me. I like being able to ride to the end of the island and back without having to plan an oil change on the way and a rebuild when I get home.

[Hillbilly110]

Hi. Me and Rangi bought brand new 2 x DRZ's 7 months ago. Mine just clicked over 10000ks on the King Country ride. We put on 17 litre tanks, 15 tooth front sprockets, and Godiva screens, hand guards and heated grips. We both love them. mine has stock seat. After 3 days your arse goes numb and then it doesn't matter what seat you have. Rangi is only 5'7" so we chopped out her seat with a bread knife and stapled the cover back on. This is the biggest bike she can pick up by herself with luggage so we won't be changing...but we don't want to anyway...Oh, and I can still beat all my mates road bikes round the Coro loop in the dry....but they're home and showered when my knobblies have to do the wet seal. Ha

[Andy67]

This?
only 115kgs/255lbs..
I would be in my shed if I had the spare coin...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-470667236.htm

Nice bike Pete, but I think I'm in the same camp as NZER with respect to maintenance.

[Andy67]

Hi. Me and Rangi bought brand new 2 x DRZ's 7 months ago. Mine just clicked over 10000ks on the King Country ride. We put on 17 litre tanks, 15 tooth front sprockets, and Godiva screens, hand guards and heated grips. We both love them. mine has stock seat. After 3 days your arse goes numb and then it doesn't matter what seat you have. Rangi is only 5'7" so we chopped out her seat with a bread knife and stapled the cover back on. This is the biggest bike she can pick up by herself with luggage so we won't be changing...but we don't want to anyway...Oh, and I can still beat all my mates road bikes round the Coro loop in the dry....but they're home and showered when my knobblies have to do the wet seal. Ha

Thanks Hillbilly that's good feedback ! Especially the road part, quite surprising. I guess I will have to try one out to see how bad the seat is. My current bike is not exactly what you would call plush in the seat department so quite used to numb bum, wonder if gel pants like cyclists use would make any difference?

[Andy67]

My elbow says DRZ/KLX400, my arse says DR350.
Put a tank and seat on the DRZ and it'll work very nicely. More modern suspension and everything else than the DR/TT350's. Just a shame about the gearing.
The DR & TT are much more stylish though.

Cool, that's what I figured too. With respect to gearing, I take it the bike doesn't get unduly stressed sitting at 110 kph for hours despite short gearing. It's more of a rider comfort thing?

[Andy67]

Tried selling my DRZ a few weeks back but no bites. 2010 street legal dirt model done ~5000 km. $5500 no offers. I'm not desperate to sell hence I'm not willing to go lower in price.

Dmoo still got that bike? I am interested at that price, Andy

[dmoo1790]

Dmoo still got that bike? I am interested at that price, Andy

Yep. Still got it. Let me know if you want to have a look.

[neels]

Just been out for a hoon on my drz that I bought a few weeks back, awesomely good fun in traffic.

Took it away for the weekend a couple of weeks back, about an hours ride from home sat on 100-110 no probs with plenty left for overtaking, and with that gearing still good fun around the tracks in the forest.

Swapped for a mates DR350 while we were out playing, there's a huge difference in power between the two, which was also noted by another kb'er who's first comment was that the 400 wheelies and the 350 doesn't. :laugh:

I guess the seat could get a bit uncomfortable if you're not used to it, doesn't really bother me as I ride mountainbikes and road bikes so my arse is well trained for sitting on something with not much more give than a plank of wood for extended periods.

[NordieBoy]

Anyone got a stock DRZ rear spring they want to get rid of?

[neels]

Anyone got a stock DRZ rear spring they want to get rid of?
Possibly, if you can point me in the direction of a shorter and stiffer one. Mine is wound right up which makes for a tall bike, but still pretty squishy in the back end.

[Transalper]

Possibly, if you can point me in the direction of a shorter and stiffer one. Mine is wound right up which makes for a tall bike, but still pretty squishy in the back end.

If you get it cut shorter that will in fact change the spring rate both making it stiffer and shorter. Winding on the preload does not change the rate, doing that only makes it sit higher.... that's from Linton at D.A.S. Moto (http://dasmoto.co.nz/) the suspension guys... who coincidently can do the mod for you.:shifty:

[Andy67]

Just been out for a hoon on my drz that I bought a few weeks back, awesomely good fun in traffic.

Took it away for the weekend a couple of weeks back, about an hours ride from home sat on 100-110 no probs with plenty left for overtaking, and with that gearing still good fun around the tracks in the forest.

Swapped for a mates DR350 while we were out playing, there's a huge difference in power between the two, which was also noted by another kb'er who's first comment was that the 400 wheelies and the 350 doesn't. :laugh:

I guess the seat could get a bit uncomfortable if you're not used to it, doesn't really bother me as I ride mountainbikes and road bikes so my arse is well trained for sitting on something with not much more give than a plank of wood for extended periods.

Awesome, I'm getting excited, what's the range like with the standard tank?

[NordieBoy]

Awesome, I'm getting excited, what's the range like with the standard tank?

DRZ range is about 190km no matter what Padmei says.

[Andy67]

Thanks mate, sounds ok for the interim.

[neels]

DRZ range is about 190km no matter what Padmei says.
Sounds about right from what I've seen when filling up.

[ADVGD]

Awesome, I'm getting excited, what's the range like with the standard tank?

Run with that excitement and buy one mate, you won't be disappointed, they are a good all round machine with the typical pros and cons that all bikes have when trying to make them conform to the varying demands of adventure riding. A larger tank solves the problem if range poses an issue to you, depending on how aggressively I ride I normally get just shy of 500km out of my 28 litre tank :shifty:

[Andy67]

Thanks all for your interest and advice, I think I am getting closer....

[Padmei]

DRZ range is about 190km no matter what Padmei says.

If you're gonna ride it like a fricking wuss you might get that. Then again if you're that limp wristed then you'd be ridign a DR.
If on the other hand you're a red blooded fully functioning in the groin dept dolly parton loving Good ol boyb with an axe swinging right hand & totall disregard for punctuation & grammar you may just get over 100ks.




fricking homos

[Andy67]

If you're gonna ride it like a fricking wuss you might get that. Then again if you're that limp wristed then you'd be ridign a DR.
If on the other hand you're a red blooded fully functioning in the groin dept dolly parton loving Good ol boyb with an axe swinging right hand & totall disregard for punctuation & grammar you may just get over 100ks.




fricking homos

Pure gold !!!!!!

[Andy67]

If.....I get this bike today, where is a good ride to take it in Auckland, beach forest etc?

[NordieBoy]

where is a good ride to take it in Auckland, beach forest etc?

All of them.

[Andy67]

All of them.

I thought Murawai might be a good option seeing as I haven't ridden a dirt bike for a while. Was going to take the K round coro but now a whole new list of options for me .... If I get it...

[Padmei]

If.....I get this bike today, where is a good ride to take it in Auckland, beach forest etc?

The road only at this stage. preferably find a wide open space with padding around the outside but failing that an empty carpark will suffice.
Only take it past 1/4 throttle till you can handle the G's & whatever you do do not go anywhere you may lose traction whilst accelerating.

Check what type of tyres you have before you go offroad. If they're too roady just take it easy on gravel & stay away from sand sand. Apart from that go crazy - in a safe way

[Andy67]

The road only at this stage. preferably find a wide open space with padding around the outside but failing that an empty carpark will suffice.
Only take it past 1/4 throttle till you can handle the G's & whatever you do do not go anywhere you may lose traction whilst accelerating.

Check what type of tyres you have before you go offroad. If they're too roady just take it easy on gravel & stay away from sand sand. Apart from that go crazy - in a safe way

That sounds like good solid advice mate, thanks and will do. I assume by G's you mean it feels quite different to a road bike cause the K pulls like a freight train ?

[JATZ]

FFS.... don't ride anywhere or do anything silly without a camera, preferably a helmet cam :bleh:

And be sure to post any good stuff on here :msn-wink:

[Andy67]

FFS.... don't ride anywhere or do anything silly without a camera, preferably a helmet cam :bleh:

And be sure to post any good stuff on here :msn-wink:

Haha can't do that mate but...maybe the vendor has a cam for the test ride. Will ask him..I mean what could possibly go wrong right? :shit:

[Andy67]

Ok job done, relieved Dmoo of his DRZ400.

Cool bike, more later. Andy

[NordieBoy]

Ok job done, relieved Dmoo of his DRZ400.

Cool bike, more later. Andy

Get a helmet camera first!

[Andy67]

Ok, DRZ400 2010, 5000ks, great condition, engine case guards, lever guards, luggage rack, AC10 in good conditon on rear, new original tyre, another spare tyre pretty shagged, tyre lever, spare sprocket, 15 tooth on front, workshop manual, owners manual etc.....$5500

I'm happy.

Went for a spin yesterday afternoon, suburbs and motorway. Bike travels well at 100kph and pulls pretty good for overtaking. Power is far from insane. I hopped onto the Beemer after and it felt like a cruise missile. Not sure what I was expecting from the wee thumper in terms of pulling power will explore that this afternoon.

Happy days

Andy

[dino3310]

its one of those bikes that "its not the size its how ya you use it":laugh: i couldnt get close to them on the gravel last weekend but then i ride like a nana.
I dont think the AC10 will last long on the rear i only get 2500 out of mine but performance off the seal is fantastic, on the front im getting 8-9000km and is fantastic on and off road so its my tyre of choice for the front.

5.5k sounds like a good deal

now get the fk off the puta and find some gravel to play in:wings:

[timmehpwr]

Is it the steel tank version? It could be the DRZ400S model with the corked up Mikuni carburetor and emissions crap.. check out www.thumpertalk.com for how to get more ponies. Most likely a FCR39 carb and decent pipe would sort it out :) I have ridden a stock 2008 DRZ400SM and it was gutless compared to my stock 2000 DRZ400E

Congrats on your purchase, welcome to the madhouse :D

[dmoo1790]

Is it the steel tank version? It could be the DRZ400S model with the corked up Mikuni carburetor and emissions crap.. check out www.thumpertalk.com for how to get more ponies. Most likely a FCR39 carb and decent pipe would sort it out :) I have ridden a stock 2008 DRZ400SM and it was gutless compared to my stock 2000 DRZ400E

Congrats on your purchase, welcome to the madhouse :D

Nope. It's the fully hot :) DRZ400E. But coming from a K1200 a 400 was always going to seem a bit weak. You should try riding one with the intake restrictor still installed. THAT is the definition of gutless.

[Andy67]

its one of those bikes that "its not the size its how ya you use it":laugh: i couldnt get close to them on the gravel last weekend but then i ride like a nana.
I dont think the AC10 will last long on the rear i only get 2500 out of mine but performance off the seal is fantastic, on the front im getting 8-9000km and is fantastic on and off road so its my tyre of choice for the front.

5.5k sounds like a good deal

now get the fk off the puta and find some gravel to play in:wings:

Hi All,

well that was the best afternoon ever

Went out to Muriwai and had a blast, soft sand leading to the beach was surprisingly tricky and deep but got through no drama. Spent time going up and down the beach until I got to grips with the bike. Still a long way to go before I would call myself anywhere near competant but managed to do some dunes, and get the bike sideways under power which was really exhilirating so spent a fair bit of time practising turns under power. i think that beach is a great place to practise sand.

the gravel road, although short was fun too and nowhere near as challenging. got alomng at a fair clip. Bike seems about righ for me and the wee thumper climbs really well.

i got some pics but only have an ipad. if i was able to email some one could hey resize and post for me?

thanks in advance and biggest thanks of all to dmoo

[Padmei]

Pah bet you didn't get to mangle your speedo drive today:angry:

[Andy67]

Pah bet you didn't get to mangle your speedo drive today:angry:

do tell......

[NordieBoy]

i got some pics but only have an ipad. if i was able to email some one could hey resize and post for me?

If you use Tapatalk, you can attach pics no problems.

[Andy67]

If you use Tapatalk, you can attach pics no problems.

thanks mate

[raftn]

Hi All,

well that was the best afternoon ever

Went out to Muriwai and had a blast, soft sand leading to the beach was surprisingly tricky and deep but got through no drama. Spent time going up and down the beach until I got to grips with the bike. Still a long way to go before I would call myself anywhere near competant but managed to do some dunes, and get the bike sideways under power which was really exhilirating so spent a fair bit of time practising turns under power. i think that beach is a great place to practise sand.

the gravel road, although short was fun too and nowhere near as challenging. got alomng at a fair clip. Bike seems about righ for me and the wee thumper climbs really well.

i got some pics but only have an ipad. if i was able to email some one could hey resize and post for me?

thanks in advance and biggest thanks of all to dmoo


Welcome to the dark side.......:Punk:

[Andy67]

Welcome to the dark side.......:Punk:

Rogee :eek:

[Andy67]

This is me and my bike


http://img521.imageshack.us/i/imagercy.jpg/

[dmoo1790]

This is me and my bike


http://img521.imageshack.us/i/imagercy.jpg/

Where are the wheelie pics? :) Hope you washed it thoroughly when you got home. The sand and salt kills bikes real quick.

[Andy67]

Where are the wheelie pics? :) Hope you washed it thoroughly when you got home. The sand and salt kills bikes real quick.

No wheelie pics but I do want to work on that. The front doesn't seem to come up under power like I expected, maybe I need to shift weight back a bit further and use the clutch, what was it like with the 14 tooth sprocket ? Anyway no hurry, wheelies are down the list, I want to learn sand first.

Yes I cleaned it very thoroughly and oiled the chain. I have a good pile of black sand on the driveway, surprising amounts. I love this bike.

Will be in touch soon.

[dmoo1790]

No wheelie pics but I do want to work on that. The front doesn't seem to come up under power like I expected, maybe I need to shift weight back a bit further and use the clutch, what was it like with the 14 tooth sprocket ? Anyway no hurry, wheelies are down the list, I want to learn sand first.

Yes I cleaned it very thoroughly and oiled the chain. I have a good pile of black sand on the driveway, surprising amounts. I love this bike.

Will be in touch soon.

You want wheelie advice from the guy who can't wheelie? :) It's only a 400 so it will need help to get it up. Bounce the front and/or dip the clutch and weight back. The 14 tooth will help but not necessary. 14/47 gearing is good for slow technical stuff. Saves slipping the clutch.

I'm using DuPont multiuse Teflon lube on my chain. Supposed to stop dirt sticking. It's not miraculous but the chain does seem to stay a bit cleaner than with oily type lubes.

[george formby]

No wheelie pics but I do want to work on that. The front doesn't seem to come up under power like I expected, maybe I need to shift weight back a bit further and use the clutch, what was it like with the 14 tooth sprocket ? Anyway no hurry, wheelies are down the list, I want to learn sand first.

Yes I cleaned it very thoroughly and oiled the chain. I have a good pile of black sand on the driveway, surprising amounts. I love this bike.

Will be in touch soon.

No doubt the beginning of a healthy obsession. Sad to say my big bike has been neglected since we got a trailie. And yes, moving your body weight back will help float the front up....

[Andy67]

You want wheelie advice from the guy who can't wheelie? :) It's only a 400 so it will need help to get it up. Bounce the front and/or dip the clutch and weight back. The 14 tooth will help but not necessary. 14/47 gearing is good for slow technical stuff. Saves slipping the clutch.

I'm using DuPont multiuse Teflon lube on my chain. Supposed to stop dirt sticking. It's not miraculous but the chain does seem to stay a bit cleaner than with oily type lubes.

Cheers Dmoo, back to chain drive....will look for some chain lube..used some trick synthetic racing oil in the interim....:blink:

[dmoo1790]

Cheers Dmoo, back to chain drive....will look for some chain lube..used some trick synthetic racing oil in the interim....:blink:

Enjoy it while it's new. Chain cleaning gets old real fast on dirt bikes. I use kero and a rag but it's a pretty slow/labourious task. Anyone else out there got good chain cleaning tips?

[Andy67]

No doubt the beginning of a healthy obsession. Sad to say my big bike has been neglected since we got a trailie. And yes, moving your body weight back will help float the front up....

I was saying to a mate yesterday was THE best day on 2 wheels for years. Took my brother out as well, was awesome having turns, just like when we were kids

[Andy67]

Enjoy it while it's new. Chain cleaning gets old real fast on dirt bikes. I use kero and a rag but it's a pretty slow/labourious task. Anyone else out there got good chain cleaning tips?

Yes please !!!!!!!!!!!!

[george formby]

I was saying to a mate yesterday was THE best day on 2 wheels for years. Took my brother out as well, was awesome having turns, just like when we were kids

Ha, much like myself & my gf, it's her bike.... I went trail riding for the first time since I was a yoof last weekend & it was hilarious. A great feeling of " I wonder if I can do this or ride up that". Lots of bumps certainly help with wheelies if you keep the throttle open.

I noticed that riding up a stream does wonders for getting clay off the chain too.

[Ocean1]

Enjoy it while it's new. Chain cleaning gets old real fast on dirt bikes. I use kero and a rag but it's a pretty slow/labourious task. Anyone else out there got good chain cleaning tips?

Screw 2 nail brushes to a plank. G clamp the plank so the brushes scrub top and bottom of the chain. Put bike on centrestand (improvise) and run it in 3rd gear while squirting kerro on chain. Use compressed air to blow kerro off, (not too agressive) and apply lube of choice, (I like waxes).

[Andy67]

Sounds like a great day George

Does anyone here use WD40 as a chain lube?

[george formby]

Sounds like a great day George

Does anyone here use WD40 as a chain lube?

It breaks down the grease so I've been told, more harm than good.
I use a sticky lube, silkolene IIR & it stays put really well. Had no issues with dust clogging just papa clay mud, sticks like $h!T to a blanket.
Took me 3 hours to thoroughly clean the DT. Looks great wet & then when it's dry all the places I missed are glaring. Frustrating, I resorted to a toothbrush for the first time in years.

You can buy chain cleaning brushes, they work the same way as the DIY fix posted above.

Wurth do a dry spray lube which is highly recommended. Never seen it over here though.

[dmoo1790]

It breaks down the grease so I've been told, more harm than good.
I use a sticky lube, silkolene IIR & it stays put really well. Had no issues with dust clogging just papa clay mud, sticks like $h!T to a blanket.
Took me 3 hours to thoroughly clean the DT. Looks great wet & then when it's dry all the places I missed are glaring. Frustrating, I resorted to a toothbrush for the first time in years.

You can buy chain cleaning brushes, they work the same way as the DIY fix posted above.

Wurth do a dry spray lube which is highly recommended. Never seen it over here though.

The verdict on WD40 seems to split 50/50 IMHO. It definitely will dissolve lube but can it really penetrate the O rings? Dunno.

You can get the DuPont multiuse stuff at Repco. It's the least sticky lube I've ever used.

[Andy67]

Screw 2 nail brushes to a plank. G clamp the plank so the brushes scrub top and bottom of the chain. Put bike on centrestand (improvise) and run it in 3rd gear while squirting kerro on chain. Use compressed air to blow kerro off, (not too agressive) and apply lube of choice, (I like waxes).

Cheers Ocean sounds like a great setup and I use kero as well, marvellous stuff. Main problem I have is lack of centre stand so I will have to make do with the time honoured creeping shuffle method. Compressed air is a good idea, may look into that...

I bought some CRC general purpose lube from repco today, in fact put down the DuPont product on the strength of a recommendation at the counter. Will see how that works.

Lovin this adventure dirt stuff, like starting from stratch for me. I read today about some basic training drills that I will practise on the sand. I love sand cause its easily the hardest stuff I've ever encountered as a biker. Can't hurt to practise on what shits me the most.

Cheers Andy

[NordieBoy]

I use Shell Advance Chain Lube.
Good stuff.

[Padmei]

if any of yous DRZ riders that have gone to a trailtech unit for whatever reason, I have munted my worm drive plastic bit in the front hub. If anyone has one no longer used i would be interested in it.
Failing that I will put my trailtech onto it & buy an acewell for the BMW. It's not worth buying the proper replacement part.
cheers

[Ocean1]

Cheers Ocean sounds like a great setup and I use kero as well, marvellous stuff. Main problem I have is lack of centre stand so I will have to make do with the time honoured creeping shuffle method. Compressed air is a good idea, may look into that...

I bought some CRC general purpose lube from repco today, in fact put down the DuPont product on the strength of a recommendation at the counter. Will see how that works.

Lovin this adventure dirt stuff, like starting from stratch for me. I read today about some basic training drills that I will practise on the sand. I love sand cause its easily the hardest stuff I've ever encountered as a biker. Can't hurt to practise on what shits me the most.

Cheers Andy

No worries. You could make a bracket to fit through the LH footrest to hold the brushes, one of many ideas I never got around to.

As for lubricants, anything sticky will hold enough sand to make any lubricating qualities absolutely pointless. A lot of sprays have solvents designed to help lubricant elements wick into gaps leaving the heavier lubricant where it needs to be, unfortunately many of the solvents damage seals, (including the chain O rings) so I don't use them. For my use I found stuff called Spectro SX chain wax worked well, if I was riding in sand I'd definitely recommend it.

Edit: I'll be interested if you find you're old dirt riding reflexes need tuning up to match the style required by the newer bike's geometry. I did. :baby:

[dmoo1790]

Cheers Ocean sounds like a great setup and I use kero as well, marvellous stuff. Main problem I have is lack of centre stand so I will have to make do with the time honoured creeping shuffle method. Compressed air is a good idea, may look into that...

If you've got axle stands you can lift the DRZ on to these. Frame just near foot pegs fits the stands, kind of.


I bought some CRC general purpose lube from repco today, in fact put down the DuPont product on the strength of a recommendation at the counter. Will see how that works.



Was that CRC Powerlube?

[Waipukbiker]

Been looking at a few American forums on bikes and a hell of a lot of riders over there swear by using ATF on their chains and apparently the stuff in the scott oilers is the same viscosity.
Only needs a light brush on coating and wipe the excess of with a rag and the chain stays clean. simple to wipe off any residue on the rear rim and apparently they are getting very good chain life.

[Andy67]

No worries. You could make a bracket to fit through the LH footrest to hold the brushes, one of many ideas I never got around to.

As for lubricants, anything sticky will hold enough sand to make any lubricating qualities absolutely pointless. A lot of sprays have solvents designed to help lubricant elements wick into gaps leaving the heavier lubricant where it needs to be, unfortunately many of the solvents damage seals, (including the chain O rings) so I don't use them. For my use I found stuff called Spectro SX chain wax worked well, if I was riding in sand I'd definitely recommend it.

Edit: I'll be interested if you find you're old dirt riding reflexes need tuning up to match the style required by the newer bike's geometry. I did. :baby:

Well, my initial impressions are the suspension seems so much better, not sure what if anything Dmoo did with respect to adjustment, the bike seems to squat less than I recall under power. Ride hight seems slightly taller but maybe I've shrunk .....all in all much improved, everywhere plus I love the electric start.

TBH I thought all my reflexes had deserted me within 10 seconds of hitting the soft sand but felt a lot better after an hour or so, it's almost like I've come full circle, I used to ride my road bike like a dirt bike now it's visa versa. At least I know what I don't know, kind of, so need to practise. Will be interesting to see how this all effects my road riding, if at all.

[Andy67]

If you've got axle stands you can lift the DRZ on to these. Frame just near foot pegs fits the stands, kind of.



Was that CRC Powerlube?

It's called high performance multi lube , clear , doesn't fling (we will see) doesn't attract dirt , water resistant , anti corrosive blah blah. Given my sand riding aspirations over the next few weeks I don't want to use anything that will mix up a nice grinding paste hence my question about WD40 seeing as its mainly kero anyway.

I passed by he chain waxes and looked at spectra in colemans, have used it before on my X11 but thought sand may stick to it. Ideally I don't want anything that's going to hang around, I intend to ride wash and lube after I use the bike so longevity is not overly important. If. Could've found some 80 weight oil probably would've used that cause it would do he job and be easy to wash off. Anyway will see what this CRC produc s like. Was 20 bucks for a big can so not a major and I like trying new products.

[Andy67]

Been looking at a few American forums on bikes and a hell of a lot of riders over there swear by using ATF on their chains and apparently the stuff in the scott oilers is the same viscosity.
Only needs a light brush on coating and wipe the excess of with a rag and the chain stays clean. simple to wipe off any residue on the rear rim and apparently they are getting very good chain life.

Yep I reckon that's the key for what I want, it's not like I'm gonna peel off a thousand KMs between lubes like a road bike. Forgot how much I love hate chain drive.

[Woodman]

I use brakleen to clean my chain. Put a bit of wood uner the back axle nut opposite side to the stand to raise the wheel off the ground and idle it in gear and spray the brakleen on. Then pour chainbar lube on and then go for a ride round the block and hey presto the chain is shiny clean. The rest of the bike is covered in shit but thems the breaks. Then jack the wheel off the ground again and spray chainlube on. Sweeet.

[Andy67]

I use brakleen to clean my chain. Put a bit of wood uner the back axle nut opposite side to the stand to raise the wheel off the ground and idle it in gear and spray the brakleen on. Then pour chainbar lube on and then go for a ride round the block and hey presto the chain is shiny clean. The rest of the bike is covered in shit but thems the breaks. Then jack the wheel off the ground again and spray chainlube on. Sweeet.

That sounds pretty thorough Woodman and good tip about jacking it up with wood. Still getting used to the fact it doesn't weigh 1/4 of a tonne. Interested as to why chain lube after the heavy oil, would've thought the job wld be done ?

[Woodman]

That sounds pretty thorough Woodman and good tip about jacking it up with wood. Still getting used to the fact it doesn't weigh 1/4 of a tonne. Interested as to why chain lube after the heavy oil, would've thought the job wld be done ?

The chain bar lube tends to flick off real easy and takes all the shit with it. Possibly engine oil would work as well but i have excess chainbar lube. Used to just do the chainbar lube only but it doesn't seem to last as long as the proper chain oil.

BTW did you get a peanut slab?

[Andy67]

The chain bar lube tends to flick off real easy and takes all the shit with it. Possibly engine oil would work as well but i have excess chainbar lube. Used to just do the chainbar lube only but it doesn't seem to last as long as the proper chain oil.

BTW did you get a peanut slab?

Good as gold , makes sense.

Peanut slab? Are CRC running a promotion? Maybe that's why I got sold on the CRC, was a big island lad who served me, cheeky bugger is probably stock piling ......

[timmehpwr]

if any of yous DRZ riders that have gone to a trailtech unit for whatever reason, I have munted my worm drive plastic bit in the front hub. If anyone has one no longer used i would be interested in it.
Failing that I will put my trailtech onto it & buy an acewell for the BMW. It's not worth buying the proper replacement part.
cheers

Hah, my hub drive has failed in the last week too! Mine was 12 years old though. I spent $40 on a new speedo cable thinking it was that but unfortuntely not, $174 for new OEM hub drive! Asked around a few auctions on trademe but no-one seems to have an old one.

I'm going down the Trail Tech route instead.

[Andy67]

Hah, my hub drive has failed in the last week too! Mine was 12 years old though. I spent $40 on a new speedo cable thinking it was that but unfortuntely not, $174 for new OEM hub drive! Asked around a few auctions on trademe but no-one seems to have an old one.

I'm going down the Trail Tech route instead.

Fuck I love these bikes, last time something went pop on the Beemer it was $1800

[dmoo1790]

I like brakleen for removing really crusty/thick stuff but I limit my use because it's pretty toxic.

If you're doing sand then anything at all oily is a no go IMHO. That's why I searched for a dry lube. Check out a normally oiled chain after a sand ride and you'll find it's clogged with sand. So far the Dupont stuff is much better.

[Andy67]

I like brakleen for removing really crusty/thick stuff but I limit my use because it's pretty toxic.

If you're doing sand then anything at all oily is a no go IMHO. That's why I searched for a dry lube. Check out a normally oiled chain after a sand ride and you'll find it's clogged with sand. So far the Dupont stuff is much better.

Good to know mate and must say the chain looks mint

[NordieBoy]

Been looking at a few American forums on bikes and a hell of a lot of riders over there swear by using ATF on their chains and apparently the stuff in the scott oilers is the same viscosity.

Yep. ATF is about 10w.

[Andy67]

This is the CRC product...will see hw it goes

http://www.crc.co.nz/Automotive-Lubricants--Penetrants-Oil-Based/p1/Multilube-Gel-ia2e823c2-6254-452c-b68e-904b9696afcd-6548.htm

[Woodman]

This is the CRC product...will see hw it goes

http://www.crc.co.nz/Automotive-Lubricants--Penetrants-Oil-Based/p1/Multilube-Gel-ia2e823c2-6254-452c-b68e-904b9696afcd-6548.htm

Oh that, got a few samples sitting on my desk, might give it a go.

[pete-blen]

If yer can handle the mess...
Open gear case lube..
Its a grease/oil that has the consisstancy &
stickyness of golden syrip ..

[Oscar]

If yer can handle the mess...
Open gear case lube..
Its a grease/oil that has the consisstancy &
stickyness of golden syrip ..

On yer chain?
It would turn into grinding paste on a gravel road...

[Andy67]

On yer chain?
It would turn into grinding paste on a gravel road...

Yes I think so too, still no harm in hearing all the alternatives, some just more fit for purpose than others.

I have a question gearing a black piece f plastic that is on the left hand side of the bike. It appears to be some sort f chain guard or similar and is positioned from the swing arm to the plastic above. Looks kind of weird. What is its purpose and any harm taking it off?

Also, does any one have any knowledge of where to get a tail tidy for this bike?

Cheers andy

[dmoo1790]

Yes I think so too, still no harm in hearing all the alternatives, some just more fit for purpose than others.

I have a question gearing a black piece f plastic that is on the left hand side of the bike. It appears to be some sort f chain guard or similar and is positioned from the swing arm to the plastic above. Looks kind of weird. What is its purpose and any harm taking it off?

Also, does any one have any knowledge of where to get a tail tidy for this bike?

Cheers andy

Are you talking about the panel of black plastic just below the white plastic side panel? If so, yes, it's a kind of chain guard I guess. I never gave it much thought. I wouldn't worry if it was on or off.

[Andy67]

Are you talking about the panel of black plastic just below the white plastic side panel? If so, yes, it's a kind of chain guard I guess. I never gave it much thought. I wouldn't worry if it was on or off.

That's the one Dmoo, nothing really wrong with it ...... just upsets my sense of symmetry .....Also easier to lube chain with it gone..

[dmoo1790]

.Also easier to lube chain with it gone..

Really? On all my bikes I've always sprayed lube on the inside bottom chain run. If I want some lube on the outside I just spray it on the rear sprocket. So access to the top chain run has never been an issue for me. YMMV

[Andy67]

Really? On all my bikes I've always sprayed lube on the inside bottom chain run. If I want some lube on the outside I just spray it on the rear sprocket. So access to the top chain run has never been an issue for me. YMMV

True, that was an afterthought, hey do you still have the factory sprockets?

[dmoo1790]

True, that was an afterthought, hey do you still have the factory sprockets?

Yes. Factory front is 14 tooth compared to 15 on it now. 47 rear is standard.

[Oscar]

(sigh)

Chain Lube 101: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506_motorcycle_chain_lube/index.html

It covers the use of waxes (bad), WD40 (bad), kerosene (not so good) and cleaning (not to mention how to actually lube your chain).

Or general maintenance:
http://www.dirtrider.com/misc/141_0312_dirtbike_chain_maintenance/

[Andy67]

(sigh)

Chain Lube 101: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506_motorcycle_chain_lube/index.html

It covers the use of waxes (bad), WD40 (bad), kerosene (not so good) and cleaning (not to mention how to actually lube your chain).

Or general maintenance:
http://www.dirtrider.com/misc/141_0312_dirtbike_chain_maintenance/

Nice, thanks very much Oscar

[Oscar]

Nice, thanks very much Oscar

I'm a bit of a hypocrite, I never remember to lube my chain....

The chain on my 950 lasted 21,000kms.

[Andy67]

I'm a bit of a hypocrite, I never remember to lube my chain....

The chain on my 950 lasted 21,000kms.

You are not alone there Oscar and the info is much appreciated.

[ADVGD]

I have a question gearing a black piece f plastic that is on the left hand side of the bike. It appears to be some sort f chain guard or similar and is positioned from the swing arm to the plastic above. Looks kind of weird. What is its purpose and any harm taking it off?

Also, does any one have any knowledge of where to get a tail tidy for this bike?

Cheers andy

I declutter my bikes, all unnecessary plastics and excess crap is removed. The one you are talking about was on my removal list

Small plate holder here, along with plenty of other goodies to erode your bank account: http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/drz400.html

[Andy67]

I declutter my bikes, all unnecessary plastics and excess crap is removed. The one you are talking about was on my removal list

Small plate holder here, along with plenty of other goodies to erode your bank account: http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/drz400.html

Thanks mate its in the list....damn you...some very nice stuff there. Have you fitted the tail tidy ?

[Andy67]

I declutter my bikes, all unnecessary plastics and excess crap is removed. The one you are talking about was on my removal list

Small plate holder here, along with plenty of other goodies to erode your bank account: http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/drz400.html

Ok done that and it looks better, also removed snorkel from air box and went for a quick spin down the road, she actually lifts under power now. Better.

[ADVGD]

Have you fitted the tail tidy ?

The factory DRZ400 plate holder could be removed, flipped over, and used as a boat for a family of 4, it is ridiculously huge!! Removing the factory one and changing to the one in the link above makes a massive improvement on looks, I fitted one and am happy with it, it is steel so it is not the lightest, but it is a tidy robust unit with a nice LED rear light and good indicators.

[Andy67]

The factory DRZ400 plate holder could be removed, flipped over, and used as a boat for a family of 4, it is ridiculously huge!! Removing the factory one and changing to the one in the link above makes a massive improvement on looks, I fitted one and am happy with it, it is steel so it is not the lightest, but it is a tidy robust unit with a nice LED rear light and good indicators.

How much landed mate and does it have a reflector? I am either going to take to it with a saw or remove it and rent it out to students .... If they put an awning off, it should accommodate 6 or so.

[bart]

How much landed mate and does it have a reflector? I am either going to take to it with a saw or remove it and rent it out to students .... If they put an awning off, it should accommodate 6 or so.

I took to mine with a hacksaw and it came up alright.

[Andy67]

I took to mine with a hacksaw and it came up alright.

Yeah I think hatstand what I'll do, just need to wait for a time when I'm motivated, not drunk or hungover ..... Just had a look at your pics ... You mate have a talent.

[Andy67]

Today I was amping for a ride so decided to check out the sandpit in wood hill. I have struggled with sand so decided this was the perfect place to practise.

Entry is $25 for the day which seems very reasonable. I said to the guy running the place that I was very inexperienced off road so he showed me how to navigate around.

Plenty of other bikes there but more dedicated moto x than the DRZ. I felt like a total noob.

Off I went and fair to say even the beginners route was quite a challenge for me. The advice given was to comit and keep weight towards the back of the bike. Much easier said than done in what is quite tight while the bike is totally doing a low frequencey tank slapper at reasonable speed (for me). I am really glad no one was following.

I also learnt what deep puddles where after going through some shallow ones I hit a beauty doing about 60, holly shit the whole world exploded in a tidal wave that would've gone well over my head as I unwittingly blasted through. That's the last puddle I'll be doing for a while. So glad my visor was down.

Back to the car park, drenched with sweat after what must have been less than 40 minutes. A bit of a rest then off again. More of the same even though I turned left this time. Found myself negotiate ing the deep sand in a track that was more like a snaking trench, I bounced off something and got ALL out of shape and ditched. I lay there for a minute trying to gather my thoughts and get the bike sorted and off again.

Eventually got back to the carpark and was in a similar state. Sat around for a bit taking it all in and decided that was enough for this noob today.

Shot down the gravel road to the beach and actually found getting on much easier than my last attempt, seems deep sand and wide spaces not so sacrey as llast week. I celebrated by doing a decent roost which saw me ditch again on the other side. Noob.

Great fun, but wow totally different from the biking that I've become competant at which is of course on the road.

Such a humbling and rewarding experience today. Can't wait to get out and practise more.

[NordieBoy]

You'll be going to AA* meetings next.


*Adventurers Anonymouse.

[Andy67]

You'll be going to AA* meetings next.


*Adventurers Anonymouse.

:niceone: I like it, I like it a lot.

[Ocean1]

(sigh)

Chain Lube 101: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506_motorcycle_chain_lube/index.html

It covers the use of waxes (bad), WD40 (bad), kerosene (not so good) and cleaning (not to mention how to actually lube your chain).

Expert advice from a salesman? Jeez you're easy.

Must admit I haven't delved into the latest motorcycle chain lube fetishes for a while. Last time I did I asked an industrial chain manufacturer's technical manager what I should use to lube a sealed chain used in typical NZ dirt conditions. "Officially I don't give a shit" he said, "no manufacturer will claim to recommend their products be used in sand, period, in fact every one I know of has explicit disclaimers in their tech literature to that effect". "Unofficially, I also don't give a shit, the rollers don't actually turn in the sprocket and if contaminants get past the seals no lubrication will save the chain from a premature death anyway".

He liked waxes for bikes for the same reason I do, they stay on the chain longer and stop it rusting.

[Andy67]

Expert advice from a salesman? Jeez you're easy.

Must admit I haven't delved into the latest motorcycle chain lube fetishes for a while. Last time I did I asked an industrial chain manufacturer's technical manager what I should use to lube a sealed chain used in typical NZ dirt conditions. "Officially I don't give a shit" he said, "no manufacturer will claim to recommend their products be used in sand, period, in fact every one I know of has explicit disclaimers in their tech literature to that effect". "Unofficially, I also don't give a shit, the rollers don't actually turn in the sprocket and if contaminants get past the seals no lubrication will save the chain from a premature death anyway".

He liked waxes for bikes for the same reason I do, they stay on the chain longer and stop it rusting.

Thanks Ocean, good frank post and I agree. What I've noticed is that I wash my bike when I come home so longevity is not hugely important, not like a road bike where HP and sustained high speed runs are the norm. The lube is inside the chain. I just want to avoid a grinding paste that's why I was considering WD40. Anyway got back today after using CRC lube gel and not a lot of stickage.

[raftn]

Today I was amping for a ride so decided to check out the sandpit in wood hill. I have struggled with sand so decided this was the perfect place to practise.

Entry is $25 for the day which seems very reasonable. I said to the guy running the place that I was very inexperienced off road so he showed me how to navigate around.

Plenty of other bikes there but more dedicated moto x than the DRZ. I felt like a total noob.

Off I went and fair to say even the beginners route was quite a challenge for me. The advice given was to comit and keep weight towards the back of the bike. Much easier said than done in what is quite tight while the bike is totally doing a low frequencey tank slapper at reasonable speed (for me). I am really glad no one was following.

I also learnt what deep puddles where after going through some shallow ones I hit a beauty doing about 60, holly shit the whole world exploded in a tidal wave that would've gone well over my head as I unwittingly blasted through. That's the last puddle I'll be doing for a while. So glad my visor was down.

Back to the car park, drenched with sweat after what must have been less than 40 minutes. A bit of a rest then off again. More of the same even though I turned left this time. Found myself negotiate ing the deep sand in a track that was more like a snaking trench, I bounced off something and got ALL out of shape and ditched. I lay there for a minute trying to gather my thoughts and get the bike sorted and off again.

Eventually got back to the carpark and was in a similar state. Sat around for a bit taking it all in and decided that was enough for this noob today.

Shot down the gravel road to the beach and actually found getting on much easier than my last attempt, seems deep sand and wide spaces not so sacrey as llast week. I celebrated by doing a decent roost which saw me ditch again on the other side. Noob.

Great fun, but wow totally different from the biking that I've become competant at which is of course on the road.

Such a humbling and rewarding experience today. Can't wait to get out and practise more.

Fuck....supose I have to go and get a dedicated trail bike now.....you were suppose to get into some adventure riding, not bloody hard core trail riding, now what am i supposed to do.....fuck..fuck...fuck...I am going to get a KTM....or sumthng...harcore, fuck where did I put put my vodka, shit I am going on trademe...better phone my divorce lawyer now, he is kind of use to me anyway.

[Andy67]

Fuck....supose I have to go and get a dedicated trail bike now.....you were suppose to get into some adventure riding, not bloody hard core trail riding, now what am i supposed to do.....fuck..fuck...fuck...I am going to get a KTM....or sumthng...harcore, fuck where did I put put my vodka, shit I am going on trademe...better phone my divorce lawyer now, he is kind of use to me anyway.

Laughing mate, you know me, I just want to sort the hard stuff so the easy is so much more enjoyable. I will continue to put myself through this so I can keep up with you guys on the gravel and wherever else this sport my take me. I am on a learning curve Rogee !!!!!

[raftn]

Laughing mate, you know me, I just want to sort the hard stuff so the easy is so much more enjoyable. I will continue to put myself through this so I can keep up with you guys on the gravel and wherever else this sport my take me. I am on a learning curve Rogee !!!!!

You just takingthe piss now.....!!!

Carnt wait to go adventure riding in Coro.....it is a great place to get some fresh herbs.

[Andy67]

You just takingthe piss now.....!!!

Carnt wait to go adventure riding in Coro.....it is a great place to get some fresh herbs.

Me too mate, I'll talk to Jaq about this weekend and you can show me the ropes....how cool mate, totally different riding, I love it. Poor old Beemer will need a strop soon tho.....after some more back roads....

[Oscar]

Expert advice from a salesman? Jeez you're easy.

Must admit I haven't delved into the latest motorcycle chain lube fetishes for a while. Last time I did I asked an industrial chain manufacturer's technical manager what I should use to lube a sealed chain used in typical NZ dirt conditions. "Officially I don't give a shit" he said, "no manufacturer will claim to recommend their products be used in sand, period, in fact every one I know of has explicit disclaimers in their tech literature to that effect". "Unofficially, I also don't give a shit, the rollers don't actually turn in the sprocket and if contaminants get past the seals no lubrication will save the chain from a premature death anyway".

He liked waxes for bikes for the same reason I do, they stay on the chain longer and stop it rusting.

Nowt easy about me - the guy makes the stuff, so he's worth listening to, but I don't rush out and buy his product.

I'm pretty much with you about sealed chains, though. The seal either works or it doesn't so your lube is basically to stop the sprocket rusting...

I'm always amazed at guys who run chain oilers on adv bikes, too. Lets make sure that we keep our chain supllied with lube, so that sand, dust and dirt sticks effectivley...

[dmoo1790]

I'm pretty much with you about sealed chains, though. The seal either works or it doesn't so your lube is basically to stop the sprocket rusting...

I'm always amazed at guys who run chain oilers on adv bikes, too. Lets make sure that we keep our chain supllied with lube, so that sand, dust and dirt sticks effectivley...

Agree with you about oiling a dirt bike chain but I'm not so sure about lubing just for rust prevention. Without lube there is metal to metal high speed contact where the chain passes over sprockets. Surely some lube here will reduce metal to metal contact and therefore reduce wear? I dunno.

[Oscar]

Agree with you about oiling a dirt bike chain but I'm not so sure about lubing just for rust prevention. Without lube there is metal to metal high speed contact where the chain passes over sprockets. Surely some lube here will reduce metal to metal contact and therefore reduce wear? I dunno.


It was a joke...

[Andy67]

Ok I've been surfing the web and kind of confused....

Seems that there are a number of sites saying how to uncork but not really sure if they all apply to the Dr model here in NZ. Rung the local dealer and now confused, more so than usual.

I removed the snorkel which has effectively left the top of the air box open. I think ths has improved the power slightly. It's far from a beast.

I understand there maybe a restriction in the carb manifold that sits in between the carb and the block, legend tells that removal will unleash more ponies.

Can anyone confirm the existence of this restriction and vouch for the removal. Remember this is the E not SM etc.

Will I have to rejet? I don't think I'm running lean with want I've done so far and open to any words of wisdom.

Also just wondering what effect changing the front sprocket from 15 to 14 will have, will this improve acceleration markedly. Running 47 on the rear. If so will it be a bitch to ride in on the road?

Cheers

[bart]

Also just wondering what effect changing the front sprocket from 15 to 14 will have, will this improve acceleration markedly. Running 47 on the rear. If so will it be a bitch to ride in on the road?

14/47 is standard offroad gearing. This will pep things up considerably, but will be too low geared for serious road use. 100km+ will become very buzzy. Try it out. It should improve responsiveness and help a lot in the sand.

I ran 14/41 and 14/39 (with road wheels) and found that about right. The engine lugged too much with 15/41.

As for sand riding, momentum is key. Get up over about 60kmh and it all becomes so much easier. Lean back and be real loose. Don't fight the bars.

Loose sand is very difficult on tight tracks where you can't get momentum.

[Andy67]

14/47 is standard offroad gearing. This will pep things up considerably, but will be too low geared for serious road use. 100km+ will become very buzzy. Try it out. It should improve responsiveness and help a lot in the sand.

I ran 14/41 and 14/39 (with road wheels) and found that about right. The engine lugged too much with 15/41.

As for sand riding, momentum is key. Get up over about 60kmh and it all becomes so much easier. Lean back and be real loose. Don't fight the bars.

Loose sand is very difficult on tight tracks where you can't get momentum.

Cheers Bart lots to think about, think I'll give the 14 a go. 60 kph was pretty impossible to achieve or maintain in large parts at the sandpit where I was riding on the weekend, I think I need to explore that place some more. I did hit a puddle that i will not soon forget at around that speed so was trying to push along where I could. Pretty freaky at one point with pines to my right and a fence to my left deep and fluffy all over the show, wanting to up the ante but also being a bit f a chicken was a dilemma for sure. Watching some YouTube on that place makes me feel a bit better though.

[Padmei]

There is the 3x3 mod where the top of the airbox is cut out 75x75mm square, the seppos then rejet it & i think replace or gut the exhaust.
The restriction I think maybe the pollution thing.

[dino3310]

There is a restriction between the carb and head on one of the DRZ models not sure which one though, same as some XR650R's. was like Padmei said to do with emmission BS, most are removed by the new buyers i would expect.

[dmoo1790]

Ok I've been surfing the web and kind of confused....

Seems that there are a number of sites saying how to uncork but not really sure if they all apply to the Dr model here in NZ. Rung the local dealer and now confused, more so than usual.

I removed the snorkel which has effectively left the top of the air box open. I think ths has improved the power slightly. It's far from a beast.

I understand there maybe a restriction in the carb manifold that sits in between the carb and the block, legend tells that removal will unleash more ponies.

Can anyone confirm the existence of this restriction and vouch for the removal. Remember this is the E not SM etc.

Will I have to rejet? I don't think I'm running lean with want I've done so far and open to any words of wisdom.

Also just wondering what effect changing the front sprocket from 15 to 14 will have, will this improve acceleration markedly. Running 47 on the rear. If so will it be a bitch to ride in on the road?

Cheers

It came stock with a ridiculous rubber intake restrictor that left no more than 20% of the intake open. Bloody stupid, dangerous crap. It was so gutless it was dangerous in traffic because you couldn't out-drag cars. I wrote about it on KB. Eventually got the dealer to tell me what was the problem and remove it. AFAIK all the mods like 3x3 do not apply to this bike. They're for different models with different carb, compression, etc. So the only way to more power is pipe (= loud) and a rejet to suit I guess. From there it would be a big bore kit, etc.

14/47 runs out of puff pretty quick on the road. Pretty buzzy at 100+ kph.

One thing about modding the airbox: Don't drop it in a river crossing. I'm a serial river crossing dropper so I like my bikes to be as waterproof as possible :)

[Woodman]

"One thing about modding the airbox: Don't drop it in a river crossing. I'm a serial river crossing dropper so I like my bikes to be as waterproof as possible "


This is very good advice.

[Andy67]

Thanks Dmoo and Woodman,

I did think the air box looked kind of vulnerable with the lid off....maybe I will reinstall and see if changing the gearing will give me more grunt.

Dino and Padmei, yep the 3x3 mod on YouTube looks a different model but still plenty of people posting up pix that look like the E box so still interested in any info around other restrictions.

NI read one of Padmei early posts with his bike around jetting for adventure rides and stock standard mentioned head snapping power. Maybe gearing is the key to get more pep and I am just pissing around the edges looking for mods of dubious value?

I love this bike just exploring options....

[Padmei]

I was musing over your findings that the DRZ was gutless in comparison to your BMW. I rode my DRZ after my BMW & yep I find the power (off road) more than heaps for me. My BMW & yours are at the outer edges of the power continuum:laugh:

[Andy67]

Maybe that is it Padmei, corrupted by power.....I rode a VFR1200 the other week and felt that was a bit gutless too. Started to get interesting and then I was bouncing off the limiter, my disappointment was palpable.

[ADVGD]

Maybe gearing is the key to get more pep and I am just pissing around the edges looking for mods of dubious value?

Good job on getting straight into it and practicing off road, keep in mind it takes a long long time to get good off road, seat time is key, lots and lots of seat time. On one ride you may learn very little while the next you may find a series of things just click and all fall into place. Pushing your boundaries is important for improvement but don't try and break any records too fast or you may find you end up breaking you. Leave the back-flips for at least three more weeks

The E model will never stack up to your BMW on-road and will certainly feel gutless, but, off road it is a well capable machine with 38ish hp stock on a reasonably light bike. If you put a DRZ in the hands of a good rider he'll make it look like a fast machine, all the extra time and money spent fluffing around to get an extra 2 1/4 hp is better spent on gas in the tank and riding time improving your riding skills, then, you'll be the one able to push it and get the most out of it. The DRZ400 isn't hugely powerful but it has enough usable power to be limited only by the rider.

If you are intent on fiddling there are a range of mods possible, some cheap, some not, some quick, some that will consume hours/days/weeks. Keep in mind you'll never get fists fulls of explosive power from a DRZ400 without spending big money on big bore kits, cam upgrades etc etc plus lots and lots of garage time.

Just my 2c

[Andy67]

Good job on getting straight into it and practicing off road, keep in mind it takes a long long time to get good off road, seat time is key, lots and lots of seat time. On one ride you may learn very little while the next you may find a series of things just click and all fall into place. Pushing your boundaries is important for improvement but don't try and break any records too fast or you may find you end up breaking you. Leave the back-flips for at least three more weeks

The E model will never stack up to your BMW on-road and will certainly feel gutless, but, off road it is a well capable machine with 38ish hp stock on a reasonably light bike. If you put a DRZ in the hands of a good rider he'll make it look like a fast machine, all the extra time and money spent fluffing around to get an extra 2 1/4 hp is better spent on gas in the tank and riding time improving your riding skills, then, you'll be the one able to push it and get the most out of it. The DRZ400 isn't hugely powerful but it has enough usable power to be limited only by the rider.

If you are intent on fiddling there are a range of mods possible, some cheap, some not, some quick, some that will consume hours/days/weeks. Keep in mind you'll never get fists fulls of explosive power from a DRZ400 without spending big money on big bore kits, cam upgrades etc etc plus lots and lots of garage time.

Just my 2c

Thanks mate, you have hit the nail on the head around the questions I've been asking. I agree that performance mods can be a pandoras box and often do more harm than good or are of questionable value.

The bike itself is fantastic for what I want and I am no where near exploring its off road capabilities which is what I bought it for after all. I am not fussed about the road performance as its hard to imagine me carving off big open road miles on it.

I think I was after more lift in the front and maybe gearing will sort that out for me. Absolute power is probably not a concern otherwise I would've been looking at a different bike. I am quite pleased with the low down grunt, seems to be a strength with this bike.

I have a couple of other questions if you will indulge...

How often do I need to clean the air filter ?

How hard is it to change the front sprocket ? Anything I need to be careful of ?

Is there anyone out there who would be prepared to show me some off road techniques to practice ?

Real noob questions I know...

Cheers Andy

[dmoo1790]

How often do I need to clean the air filter ?

How hard is it to change the front sprocket ? Anything I need to be careful of ?

Is there anyone out there who would be prepared to show me some off road techniques to practice ?

Real noob questions I know...

Cheers Andy

Filter: According to the manual or when it gets dirty. Check especially after dusty rides.

Sprocket: I found it to be impossible but others may have better technique. Torque is 100 Nm so it's pretty tight. Case guard needs to be swapped to fit the sprocket size although I guess you could leave the 15t guard on with a 14t sprocket.

Have a look at this: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/148336-A-great-read-for-adv-newbies-amp-old-warhorses

[bart]

Sprocket: I found it to be impossible but others may have better technique. Torque is 100 Nm so it's pretty tight. Case guard needs to be swapped to fit the sprocket size although I guess you could leave the 15t guard on with a 14t sprocket.


I do recall grinding a large section of the chain guard thing to make a 15 tooth sprocket fit. You don't have to buy a new one.

The bolt to remove the sprocket on mine wasn't too bad. Just make sure you regularly change the locking tab thing. If the bolt and sprocket come loose, you can blow the counter shift oil seal and be left stranded. I know from experience. :shutup:

[Padmei]

Mate i've got oodles of offroad techniques - shitloads in fact - I've got offorad techniques coming out my butt hole. I'd show them to ya but I don't think they'll help ya:banana:
dance you banana dance:clap:

When you get a chance can you measure the seat height on your bike - not just what it says on the web but a real measurement standing next to it- no hurry sometime this month or so. cheers

[Oscar]

Mate i've got oodles of offroad techniques - shitloads in fact - I've got offorad techniques coming out my butt hole. I'd show them to ya but I don't think they'll help ya:banana:
dance you banana dance:clap:

When you get a chance can you measure the seat height on your bike - not just what it says on the web but a real measurement standing next to it- no hurry sometime this month or so. cheers

If'n they're coming outta yer butthole yer probably doing it wrong.

Just sayin'

[JATZ]

I told ya you shoulda got a 350 :bleh:

I have used a 15 tooth front sproket for getting to the interesting bits and carried a 13 tooth for when I got there. It's a 5-10 miute job to change them over, although the 350 has a circlip, can you put a circlip on the 400 ? There's not much adjustment left in the chain after the swap so it probly wont work if you chains stretched already when using the 15 tooth

[Andy67]

Mate i've got oodles of offroad techniques - shitloads in fact - I've got offorad techniques coming out my butt hole. I'd show them to ya but I don't think they'll help ya:banana:
dance you banana dance:clap:

When you get a chance can you measure the seat height on your bike - not just what it says on the web but a real measurement standing next to it- no hurry sometime this month or so. cheers

One of the more interesting posts P man...

950 at lowest point, hope that helps?

[Andy67]

I do recall grinding a large section of the chain guard thing to make a 15 tooth sprocket fit. You don't have to buy a new one.

The bolt to remove the sprocket on mine wasn't too bad. Just make sure you regularly change the locking tab thing. If the bolt and sprocket come loose, you can blow the counter shift oil seal and be left stranded. I know from experience. :shutup:

Interesting, I've read plenty about using loctite when changing sprocketson this bike. I used to adjust the chain on my X11. That was 80 ft lbs at rear axle. Had a torque wrench and it seems a good grunt and then a bit. How much precision does one actually need?

[Andy67]

I told ya you shoulda got a 350 :bleh:

I have used a 15 tooth front sproket for getting to the interesting bits and carried a 13 tooth for when I got there. It's a 5-10 miute job to change them over, although the 350 has a circlip, can you put a circlip on the 400 ? There's not much adjustment left in the chain after the swap so it probly wont work if you chains stretched already when using the 15 tooth

That would be ideal and kind of what I was thinking, sounds like carrying a 2ft bar and loctite may be just a bit unrealistic.....

[NordieBoy]

I told ya you shoulda got a 350 :bleh:

I have used a 15 tooth front sproket for getting to the interesting bits and carried a 13 tooth for when I got there. It's a 5-10 miute job to change them over, although the 350 has a circlip, can you put a circlip on the 400 ? There's not much adjustment left in the chain after the swap so it probly wont work if you chains stretched already when using the 15 tooth

DRZ sprocket bolts on dunnit, not circlipable?

[Andy67]

DRZ sprocket bolts on dunnit, not circlipable?

It's a bolt like you say.

[Hillbilly110]

Agree with you about oiling a dirt bike chain but I'm not so sure about lubing just for rust prevention. Without lube there is metal to metal high speed contact where the chain passes over sprockets. Surely some lube here will reduce metal to metal contact and therefore reduce wear? I dunno.

I,ve never been one to oil an O-ring chain and if you read the Adventure Riding Handbook he got 20 000 + kilometres in the Sahara from a DID Gold Plate with no oil. The DID website says chain should be cleaned and oiled daily so who knows.

As for a small tidy tail end, go to Supercheap. we got tail assy and LED blinkers etc all from there. If you PM me your email I'll send a pic

[NordieBoy]

I tried WD-40'ing my last DR650 chain.
No issues at all until about 11,000km (half way through a Rainbow/Molesworth NADS ride) when it started sounding like it was jumping sprocket teeth.
Some normal chain lube solved the noise issues for a further 3,000km.

[dino3310]

when i clean my chain i just use a little crc to coat the chain, with a rag jammed under the chain on the slider
263851
and a rag in hand to wipe of muck and eccess spray then give it a light spray coating of chain lube and repeat with rags and thats my routeing, seems to work alright never hand any issues

[raftn]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7088/7225207724_c25ee9d754.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/74280319@N07/7225207724/) P1000093 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/74280319@N07/7225207724/) by Roger Fleming (http://www.flickr.com/people/74280319@N07/), on Flickr

[Andy67]

Thanks Rog,

Great day out !!

That shot was taken at Port Waikato just after we had been for a blast down the beach, got there via Klondike Road which was AWESOME and shot to Nikau Caves for lunch. Great day out. Got 150kms till reserve then needed the extra gas I was carrying. Could probably have got back to Tuakau if I had gassed up there but certainly no further.

Reinstalled the snorkel after I got home as the bike was popping a bit from the exhaust. Will see if that smooths power delivery as well. May change sprocket soon the see what that does.

Cheers Andy