View Full Version : Tidying castings for chroming?
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 14:48
Got a bundle of parts going out for chroming. Some of them are cast, and I guess portions of the cast have been machined into a nice smooth finish.
Still, a few areas have that roughness you get with casting. As the chromer said, it'll chrome but it'll be a rough chrome and not really look nice.
Is there something I can do to tidy it up? I'm guessing a small sanding drum on a rotary, set to low speed?
nodrog
1st May 2012, 14:52
If you want your chrome to look good, you want to polish them up as if they werent being chromed.
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 15:11
If you want your chrome to look good, you want to polish them up as if they werent being chromed.
Thats already part of the service.
What I'm talking about is the roughness of unmachined castings.
nodrog
1st May 2012, 15:16
Thats already part of the service.
What I'm talking about is the roughness of unmachined castings.
yeah, get out your sandpaper then and start sanding it smooth, before they polish it up.
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 15:26
Actually had a change of plan (unless someone knows how to full strip a master cylinder?).
One of the parts I was wanting chromed, that had the cast marks on it, I can't actually pull apart enough to get it chromed. The rubber around the cylinder I can't get out and therefore can't chrome the thing. So I'm now going to paint any parts with rough casting, and the smoothed machine bits will get chromed.
The wheels have rough casting areas, and the "spokes" and outer diameters of the rims are all machined so I'm planning on getting the wheels chromed, then masking and then painting the rough cast areas.
The question now is how well with paint stick to the rough chrome.
imdying
1st May 2012, 16:07
Actually had a change of plan (unless someone knows how to full strip a master cylinder?).
One of the parts I was wanting chromed, that had the cast marks on it, I can't actually pull apart enough to get it chromed. The rubber around the cylinder I can't get out and therefore can't chrome the thing. So I'm now going to paint any parts with rough casting, and the smoothed machine bits will get chromed.
The wheels have rough casting areas, and the "spokes" and outer diameters of the rims are all machined so I'm planning on getting the wheels chromed, then masking and then painting the rough cast areas.
The question now is how well with paint stick to the rough chrome.
They all come completely to bits. Rough castings aren't a problem (for you), the polisher will polish them all to a mirror finish before chroming them. That's what costs the money, not the actual chroming itself.
jellywrestler
1st May 2012, 16:21
[QUOTE=The Lone Rider;1130314566 a master cylinder?[/QUOTE]
what model bike, you may be able to buy a master cylinder already chromed
how does paint stick to rough chrome, shit, that's how really depends on the quality of etch primer used etc but it wont be easy.
what brand of wheels are they?
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 16:30
They all come completely to bits. Rough castings aren't a problem (for you), the polisher will polish them all to a mirror finish before chroming them. That's what costs the money, not the actual chroming itself.
Hmmm my understanding was they dont tidy up the roughness of the casting.
Maybe I misunderstood him but there was some issue about chroming the wheels because of not being able to polish them on the rough bits of the casting.
imdying
1st May 2012, 17:10
Hmmm my understanding was they dont tidy up the roughness of the casting.
Maybe I misunderstood him but there was some issue about chroming the wheels because of not being able to polish them on the rough bits of the casting.
The only issue is the price. Rough castings take a while to clean up which means higher labour charges. Easy enough to do, just time consuming.
jellywrestler
1st May 2012, 17:14
why not post photos? that would help a bit
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 17:20
The only issue is the price. Rough castings take a while to clean up which means higher labour charges. Easy enough to do, just time consuming.
I'll check with him if the price quoted includes cleaning up the roughness of the casting.
Still the issue that I cant get the cylinder chromed cuz I cant get the rubber seals etc out. But that's not to bad to paint.
jellywrestler
1st May 2012, 17:23
I'll check with him if the price quoted includes cleaning up the roughness of the casting.
Still the issue that I cant get the cylinder chromed cuz I cant get the rubber seals etc out. But that's not to bad to paint.
if the seals went in then they'll come out
Kickaha
1st May 2012, 17:25
the polisher will polish them all to a mirror finish before chroming them.
Some places that do chroming strangely enough dont do polishing, they guys in Maldon street have done a excellent job on polishing stuff for me but if you want a decent job be prepared to pay a lot for it
Take your stuff into them and get them to see what they can do with it but if you want a tidy chrome finish it needs to be already perfect before chroming
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 17:26
if the seals went in then they'll come out
In theory, but the sucker cost about $300 for the master cylinder and I rather paint it then fuck it for the possibility of chroming it.
I've actually got the original one here, and had a go at practicing pulling all that out from that. Couldn't do it.
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 17:28
Some places that do chroming strangely enough dont do polishing, they guys in Maldon street have done a excellent job on polishing stuff for me but if you want a decent job be prepared to pay a lot for it
Take your stuff into them and get them to see what they can do with it but if you want a tidy chrome finish it needs to be already perfect before chroming
Escort can't chrome aluminum. Many places can't.
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 17:48
Good news.
I was looking for one of my cameras and instead found a manual for a bike I had worked on a few years ago. That reminded me I had the microfiche for the bike I'm working on now, so I pulled that and sure enough it appears I should be able to get the master cylinder apart.
I've got the rubber "cover" bit off without damage, just need circlip pliers and should be able to pull the lot out.
Now I just need to check if the pricing I was given includes making any casting roughness smooth, and if it doesnt, can I get it done.
Much appreciated. Just one of times I don't know enough to ask the right questions. :drinknsin
imdying
1st May 2012, 20:25
Some places that do chroming strangely enough dont do polishing, they guys in Maldon street have done a excellent job on polishing stuff for me but if you want a decent job be prepared to pay a lot for itYup. People have brought me master cylinders to reassemble that were just chromed, not polished before hand. They look shit. They would have had a much better results from a silver bake enamel, which would've been cheaper too. Now if I take one apart, I make sure to tell them to ask about polishing so it gets done.
If you're not married to chrome, powder coat and bake enamelling has a whole heap of different finishes. That places that advertises on Hauraki, I tried them, and they did a mint job. The rear master cylinder, I cleaned that up with a file and some sandpaper whilst bored one evening... took off all the casting marks, hose locating lugs, sizes markings etc... they powder coated everything but the pushrod for about $10 (I think the min job is $20, but I had other bits done too). The res and rear sets are black anodized billet, and the master cylinder is actually a pretty good match (satin black powder). Chrome is a slut, but it looks purdy.
But you don't have to be boring like me... they also have hammer finishes, and I think variations of that black krinkle stuff they use on some harleys etc.
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 21:16
Yup. People have brought me master cylinders to reassemble that were just chromed, not polished before hand. They look shit. They would have had a much better results from a silver bake enamel, which would've been cheaper too. Now if I take one apart, I make sure to tell them to ask about polishing so it gets done.
I'll make sure to check what level of prep will be involved, as surely no point in spending the money to get back roughed chrome.
The budget on the bike that is getting the chrome is enough to buy another bike, so if chrome is viable then thats the pick!
So yeap, top of the list is to check if they will get out all the casting marks, and polish the shitnibbers out of the parts before hot dipping.
jellywrestler
1st May 2012, 22:04
I'll make sure to check what level of prep will be involved, as surely no point in spending the money to get back roughed chrome.
The budget on the bike that is getting the chrome is enough to buy another bike, so if chrome is viable then thats the pick!
So yeap, top of the list is to check if they will get out all the casting marks, and polish the shitnibbers out of the parts before hot dipping.
why don't you do it yourself that adds to your content of the bike?
I've found and prepped some lower fork legs this week and half way through getting a bottom triple clamp ready for the platers, long and labourious but i can lay claim to it looking the part and it's cheaper.
what's the bike?
The Lone Rider
1st May 2012, 22:16
why don't you do it yourself that adds to your content of the bike?
1. Cuz I don't really want to
2. The bike already has oodles of "ME" in it
3. I have a fractured elbow
4. Professional polishing, paint, aftermarket parts etc... were already budgeted for. "Spend this much, and do all this" and thats exactly what I'm doing.
5. I've just finished a 1 1/2 year project that I fabricated most of the new parts, and painted the entire thing. Totally over that much work for awhile.
6. Deadline to be met.
The Lone Rider
2nd May 2012, 08:07
If you're not married to chrome, powder coat
By the way Malcolm, how does the powder wear? The list of parts I have here include the wheels, all the handlebar controls & clamps, forward control brackets and levers etc...
I'd be concerned about having the powder on the wheels?
Also, from your post I'm guessing all the casting marks would have to be tidied up for powder coating also?
imdying
2nd May 2012, 09:16
By the way Malcolm, how does the powder wear? The list of parts I have here include the wheels, all the handlebar controls & clamps, forward control brackets and levers etc...
I'd be concerned about having the powder on the wheels?
Also, from your post I'm guessing all the casting marks would have to be tidied up for powder coating also?
It wears well... I prefer it for wheels (over paint, although 2 pak paint is the shit) for chip resistance.
Yeah, it's just like paint... prep is everything. If you want a super smooth finish, then you need to prep the surface... but only down to a say 120 grit finish, not a 2000 grit mirror finish like you want for chrome.
jellywrestler
2nd May 2012, 10:53
It wears well... I prefer it for wheels (over paint, although 2 pak paint is the shit) for chip resistance.
Yeah, it's just like paint... prep is everything. If you want a super smooth finish, then you need to prep the surface... but only down to a say 120 grit finish, not a 2000 grit mirror finish like you want for chrome.
yep agree with the dont go too fine with ya paper as it will appreciate something to key to.
imdying
2nd May 2012, 16:24
Indeed :yes:
I like powder... it's cheap, readily available, takes some abuse, and comes in a bigger range of styles than I would have guessed.
Best I've had done was by a guy who used to work at Prometal (they'll do it for you too BTW)... he'd lay a silver powder base with a translucent top coat, came out great :)
What bike is this project?
Kickaha
2nd May 2012, 17:24
Best I've had done was by a guy who used to work at Prometal (they'll do it for you too BTW)... he'd lay a silver powder base with a translucent top coat, came out great :)
If it was Scott he is still there, he's done the powdercoating there for probably the last decade
I've recently had some stuff done at Elite powder coating in Orbell street, they did a good job and understand motorcycle stuff and what needs to be masked off and also do the prep by blasting the parts as well, reasonably good turnaround time to
The Lone Rider
2nd May 2012, 17:30
So went in today and basically price includes polishing out the casting roughness, but I'm still to take in the wheels for him to have a look at, as he suspects I'll need to take them to a specialized polishing place to do a good job on them.
Got the wheels pulled, and bike nearly came off lift completely. Fuck that was close; just a bent heat shield as far as I can see!
I need some of those small scissor lifts, like they use for lifting frames in American Chopper (not a table lift, I have one already). Ideas?
Just a few issues left - whether the chrome will peel or chip if I retap holes once chromed (to clean the threads) and also if I should or shouldn't pull the wheels' bearings and seals and general questions around the ability to mask off chrome from getting into certain areas.
Back to the chrome shop tomorrow, and should know if it's all go for chrome, or if I take my boxes of parts to the powdercoaters.
Wheres a good powdercoater? I've contacted one not far from me, price was good but the color samples on their website was limited range.
And here starts the rush to get things done before the deadline of May 11.
imdying
3rd May 2012, 09:13
If it was Scott he is still there, he's done the powdercoating there for probably the last decadeNah, this guy killed himself, I think he trained Scott though.
I never understood that... he had a wife, two beautiful young boys, nicest XY Falcon in NZ, everything he ever wanted... still miss him heaps.
Kickaha
3rd May 2012, 09:34
Wheres a good powdercoater? I've contacted one not far from me, price was good but the color samples on their website was limited range.
I've used Elite in Orbell street recently, good prep and turnaround and experienced with motorcycle stuff, before then I've always used Prometal but they don't have any blasting gear to clean up the bits first
Nah, this guy killed himself
I can't remember his name but now I know who you mean
The Lone Rider
3rd May 2012, 11:43
so he didnt think chroming the wheels would be any good or that to get them nice will be beyond financial feasability. so i will get wheels pcoated as well as a few other bits so it has a flowing color scheme. rest is chromed. just got to sort out tidying the cast roughness
The Lone Rider
3rd May 2012, 20:20
Fill in the blank with a color, or even throw up a photo of a color scheme similar...
__________________ + matte black + chrome
I can't decide for myself.
The Lone Rider
3rd May 2012, 21:35
Narrowing down the options. For sake of understanding, all chrome in the pictures have been given a slight white glaze. Tank and fenders are matte black.
263091
I like the bottom left one, looks like a subtle metalic gold/copper/bronze?
I put metalic copper powdercoat on my rims and engine covers, looks bloody pretty, and goes well with the matte black and aluminium silver.
The Lone Rider
3rd May 2012, 21:52
I like the bottom left one, looks like a subtle metalic gold/copper/bronze?
I put metalic copper powdercoat on my rims and engine covers, looks bloody pretty, and goes well with the matte black and aluminium silver.
Got a photo of it?
Got a photo of it?
Many, many photos :drool:
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/bogan229/P1010881.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/bogan229/P1010884.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/bogan229/P1010799.jpg
they don't really do the metallic fleck part justice, which is really only noticeable up close, and in good natural light.
The Lone Rider
4th May 2012, 08:32
Think I've decided on a purple. Other than the fact my daughter picked it, a look on trademe shows few bikes with purple on them, and definitely nothing like a Meanstreak but with purple instead of red as a secondary color.
Got the list as
Powdercoat -
x2 rises & clamps
x1 master cyc with lid and clamp
left mirror mount and clamp
wheels
With the possibility that down the line I might get the pegs powdercoated and the ends on the grips
Chrome-
brake arm extention
x2 switch blocks
forward control spacers
hand levers
forward control brackets & levers
brake hub and arm
The Lone Rider
4th May 2012, 17:14
Powder coater was concerned about doing the m. cylinder due to the little plastic window, and the left lever attachment due to the small plastic switch inside.
Because of the baking process.
Switch I could of got out, but how the hell do you pull the plastic window? I phoned my usual bike shop, and basically took the advice not to try and pull it out since the whole cylinder comes as a set (no replacement windows or rubber seals)
Kickaha
4th May 2012, 17:19
Switch I could of got out, but how the hell do you pull the plastic window? I phoned my usual bike shop, and basically took the advice not to try and pull it out since the whole cylinder comes as a set (no replacement windows or rubber seals)
Depends on what it is off, here's a Yamaha one http://www.xj4ever.com/choosing%20a%20sight%20glass.pdf
The Lone Rider
4th May 2012, 17:24
Depends on what it is off, here's a Yamaha one http://www.xj4ever.com/choosing%20a%20sight%20glass.pdf
I have the left one, and bike shop said they couldn't order replacement parts for that little window.
So those parts are now being chromed. If at a later date someone wants to show me how to strip the switch and window out, I can still get it powder coated.
Kickaha
4th May 2012, 17:35
I have the left one, and bike shop said they couldn't order replacement parts for that little window.
So those parts are now being chromed. If at a later date someone wants to show me how to strip the switch and window out, I can still get it powder coated.
I'm not sure they are "factory" parts but Len on XJ4eva sells them
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